EDW^KD    STRv^SBURGER 


®Irp  i.  1.  Htll  ICtbrarg 


53'ortl|  (EaroUna  ^tatF  Hmoeraity 

QK313 
S7 


NORTH  CAROLINA  STATE  UNIVERSITY  LIBRARIES 


S00801762   O 


m 


THIS  BOOR  IS  DUE  ON  THE  DATE 
INDICATED  BELOW  AND  IS  SUB- 
JECT TO  AN  OVERDUE  FINE  AS 
POSTED  AT  THE  CIRCULATION 
DESK. 


S661  I  z  ydv 


RAMBLES   ON  THE   RIVIERA 


RAMBLES   ON  THE 
RIVIERA 


EDUARD   STRASBURGER 

F.  R.  S.,  D.  C.  L. 

I'HOFESSOR   OF    BOTANY    AT    THE    UNU'ERSITV    OF    BONN 


TRANSLATED    FROM    THE    GERMAN   BY 

O.   AND   B.   COMERFORD   CASEY 

WITH   87    COLOURED   ILLUSTRATIONS    BY 
LOUISE  REUSCH 


NEW  YORK:    CHARLES  SCRIHXER'S  SONS 
LONDON:    T.  FISHER  UNWIN 

MCMVI. 


PRINTED  AT  THE  COLOUR  PRESS  OF  MEISENBACH  RIFFARTH  &  Co., 
MUNICH,    BAVARIA 


(ALL   RIGHTS   RESERVED) 


DEDICATED    TO 


SIR   THOMAS   HANBURY 

K.  C.V.  O.,   F.  L.  S.,  etc. 


OF    LA   MORTOLA,    ITALY, 


TRANSLATORS'   NOTE. 


ihe  appearance  of  "Streifzlige  an  der  Riviera""  in  its 
English  garb  is  due  to  the  generosity  of  Sir  Thomas  Hanbury, 
whose  beautiful  garden  at  La  Mortola  is  as  interesting  to 
the  botanist  as  to  pleasure- seekers  on  the  Riviera.  The 
Botanical  Institute  of  the  Universitv  of  Genoa  and  the  garden 
of  the  Royal  Horticultural  Societv  at  Wislev  are  among  his 
many  gifts  to  Science  and  to  Horticulture. 

The  translation  of  Professor  Strasburger"s  interesting 
book  has  been  a  pleasant  task,  taking  us  back  over  many 
familiar  scenes.  We  hope  that  our  English  version  may 
afford  equal  pleasure  to  the  reader. 

We  would  like  to  acknowledge  here  the  friendly  co- 
operation of  the  learned  Author  from  whose  revised  and 
annotated  copy  this  translation  has  been  made. 

O.  &  B.  C.  C. 

Parkstone,  April  1906. 


PREFACE  TO  THE 
FIRST  EDITION 


LJnder     a     t^rev 
wintrv      sky       in      the 
valley  of  the  Rhine  I  am 
writing  these  lines  which  are  to 
serve  as  an  introduction  to  mv  "Rambles'"  on  the 
Mediterranean  coast.    How  fortunate  is  it  that  even 


on  the  darkest  da\  s  iiin- inatii  .n  ran  raise 

us  up  above  the  clouds  1     Even  when  al 

around  is  dull,  fancv  pictures  to  me  with 

magic    touch    the    bright    southern    sunshine. 

I  seem  to  look  upon  the  l)lue  Midland  Sea  with  its  steep,  rocky 

shores,  and  in  the   far  distance  gleams  the  Alpine  range  with 

its    diadem    of   snow,     ^vlirrored  in  my  mind    are   the    bright 

Ligurian    landscapes;     I    breathe,    as    it    were,    the    aromatic 

perfume    of   the    evergreen    thickets   (Maquis).      May    similar 

sensations   of   returning   spring   l)e    awakened  in   the   soul    of 

the  reader,  surrounded  though  he  be  by  frost  and  snow! 


PREFACE  TO  THE  SECOND  EDITION. 


It  is  not  the  purpose  of  this  second  preface  to  make 
known  the  frame  of  mind  in  which  I  wrote,  but  rather  to  explain 
the  alteration  and  expansion  of  the  present  volume.  The 
reader  will  be  immediately  struck  by  the  numerous  botanical 
illustrations  which  have  been  introduced  into  the  text.  These, 
it  is  hoped,  will  be  found  a  great  assistance  to  the  com- 
prehension of  the  plants  which  are  described.  Many  of  those 
interested  in  these  ''Rambles  on  the  Riviera"  had  expressed 
a  wish  that  the  volume  should  be  thus  illustrated.  It  is  a 
matter  of  congratulation  to  me  that  Miss  Louise  Reusch  has 
devoted  herself  to  this  task.  She  has  travelled  on  the  Riviera, 
and  there,  on  the  spot,  she  has  painted  from  Nature  the 
pictures  for  this  book.  The  beauty  of  these  paintings  proves 
her  to  be  an  accomplished  artist;  thev  are  not  onlv  artistic, 
but  are  absolutely  true  to  Nature.  To  her  brush  are  also  due  the 
appropriate  vignettes  which  mark  the  main  divisions  of  the  book. 
It  reflects  much  credit  on  the  publisher  that  he  was  willing  to  go  to 
such  great  expense  for  an  undertaking  with  which  he  sym- 
pathised; he   has  indeed  placed  me  under  a  great  obligation. 

A  comparison  of  the  earlier  with  the  present  edition  of 
my  ''Rambles"  will  show  that  scarcelv  a  page  of  the  former 
remains  unaltered.  Vet  I  have  regarded  it  as  essential  to 
retain  the  original  arrangement  of  the  subject  matter  and  the 
sequence  of  the  different  impressions  which  I  received  in  my 
trips  to  the  Riviera  each  spring  during  the  last  ten  years. 
The  last  two  sections  of  the  book  replace  those  earlier  de- 
scriptions which  were  found  to  be  no  longer  suitable.  These 
new  chapters  were  penned  during  visits  to  the  Riviera  in  the 


PREFACE  TO  THE  SECOND  EDITION.         IX 


spring  of  this  and  of  the  previous  year.  The  aim  of  inv 
recent  journe\  was  to  connect  the  earher  sketches  and  to 
unite  the  whole  into  a  harmonious  treatise.  Mv  articles  on 
the  Riviera,  which  appeared  originally  in  the  '"Deutsche 
Rundscliau".  were  separate  impressions,  each  sketch  complete 
in  itself,  like  different  pictures  by  the  same  artist.  As  the 
number  of  these  sketches  increased,  I  became  inore  and  more 
desirous  of  connecting  them  together.  Thus  I  extended  mv 
journev  this  vear  all  along  the  Riviera,  visiting  those  spots 
which  are  worthy  of  notice  on  account  of  their  beauty,  and 
which  had  reason  to  complain  of  being  neglected  in  mv 
earlier  sketches.  Nevertheless  these  "Rambles"  are  not 
intended  as  a  substitute  for  the  Guide  Book.  Their  aim  is 
rather  to  direct  attention  to  the  treasures  of  Nature  in  this 
uniquelv  beautiful  district :  to  describe  some  of  the  objects 
which  we  meet  with  here,  and  so  to  increase  the  interest 
of  a  sojourn  in  the  South. 

Alas  I  I  have  not  been  able  to  paint  mv  last  sketches 
exclusivelv  in  bright  colours:  1  have  been  compelled  to  put 
in  many  a  dark  shadow.  For  the  changes  which  have  taken 
place  of  late  vears  on  the  Riviera  have  not  all  been  for  the 
better;  and  many  disagreeable  impressions  are  beginning  to 
interfere  with  the  pure  pursuits  of  the  naturalist.  The  pleasure 
of  one's  walks  on  the  French  Ri\iera  is  now  spoilt  bv  the  motor 
cars  which  throw  up  clouds  of  stifling  dust,  and  often  endanger 
the  life  of  the  wavfarer.  In  Italv  this  sport  it  not  pursued  to  the 
same  extent:  nor  is  such  high  speed  permitted  as  in  France. 
Yet  even  on  the  French  Riviera  plentv  of  places  are  to  be 
found,  far  from  the  beaten  track,  where,  without  let  or  hin- 
drance, one  may  devote  oneself  with  earnestness  to  the  ennobling 
study  of  Nature.  Dare  I  hope  that  these  ''Rambles"'  mav  often 
lead  the  readers  to  such  chosen  spots  ? 

Bonn.    Autumn    l'*03. 


INTRODUCTION. 


jr"Vs  intending  visitors  have  frequently  asked  me  for 
information  about  the  Riviera,  I  will  begin  by  giving  some 
advice  on  the  subject.  If  in  good  health  and  only  anxious 
to  enjov  the  charms  of  Nature,  you  can  count  on  finding 
such  enjovment  at  anv  place  on  the  Rivieras  di  Levante  and 
Ponente  between  Spczia  and  Toulon.  But  if  sufficient  time 
is  at  vour  disposal  vou  should  extend  your  journey  over  the 
whole  of  that  naturally  favoured  coast,  beginning  with  the 
Riviera  di  Levante,  for  the  grandeur  of  the  scenery  increases 
from  cast  to  west  up  to  the  foot  of  the  Esterel  mountains. 
For  a  visit  of  this  kind,  however,  the  time  of  year  should 
also  be  considered,  as  the  Riviera  di  Levante,  with  the  ex- 
cc];)ti()n  of  Xervi,  still  wears  a  wintrv  aspect  in  carl\  spring. 
So  that  a  journev  undertaken  in  ]March,  to  include  both 
Rivieras  and  to  extend   as    far   as  Sestri  Levante,   should   be 


Xn  INTRODUCTION. 


begun  from  the  western  end.  Nervi  itself,  where  the  mean 
winter  temperature  is  but  Httle  below  that  of  the  most 
sheltered  resorts  of  the  Riviera  di  Ponente,  and  where  ever- 
greens abound,  does  not  lose  its  charms  in  mid-winter.  But 
resorts  on  the  Riviera  di  Levante  situated  south-east  of  Monte 
di  Portofino  do  not  show  the  full  splendour  of  their  vege- 
tation until  the  deciduous  trees  have  burst  into  leaf.  Foreign 
plants  are  not  yet  as  widely  distributed  on  this  part  of  the 
coast  as  in  Nervi  and  on  the  Riviera  di  Ponente;  and  this 
is  partlv  accounted  for  by  the  fact  that  the  protection  from 
the  north  decreases  gradually  from  Portofino  to  Spezia. 
Delicate  plants  therefore  suffer  more  and  more  as  one  nears 
the  latter  place. 

For  people  with  weak  chests  who  seek  a  milder  climate 
in  the  South,  onlv  the  most  sheltered  resorts  on  the  Riviera 
need  be  considered.  The  following  places  on  the  Riviera  di 
Ponente  are  the  most  completelv  sheltered  from  the  north: 
—  San  Remo,  Ospedaletti,  Mentone,  and  to  a  certain  extent 
Alassio  also,  Nice  with  Cimiez,  Cannes  and  Hveres:  on  the 
Riviera  di  Levante  only  Nervi  at  the  western  end.  At  San 
Remo,  Ospedaletti  and  Nervi  the  sheltering  mountains  ap- 
proach verv  near  to  the  coast.  For  this  reason  the  number 
of  walks  is  limited.  This  is  especiallv  the  case  at  Nervi, 
which,  howe\er,  has  as  a  compensation  a  remarkablv  fine 
marine  parade,  free  from  dust,  where  the  invalid  can  enjoy 
exceptional  protection  from  almost  everv  wind.  Since  longer 
walks  are  out  of  the  question  for  him  he  will  not  feel  the 
want  of  them.  But  it  is  otherwise  with  strong  people,  who 
would  feel  rather  shut  in  here.  Thev  would  be  much  better 
off  at  Mentone,  where,  though  the  hills  stand  further  back, 
the  coast  is  well  sheltered  bv  the  mountains  which  rise  to 
a  considerable  height.  Their  rugged  summits  tempt  the 
pedestrian  further  afield,  while  invalids  mav  stroll  about  in 
the  valleys  which  radiate  fanwise  from  the  coast.  The 
Western  Riviera  is  drier  than  the  Eastern,  and  can  boast  of 


INTRODUCTION.  XIII 


a  greater  number  of  sunny  days,  and  of  a  smaller  rainfall. 
This  is  due  to  the  height  of  the  mountains  which  shelter  it. 
Along  the  Riviera  di  Ponente  the  lofty  chain  of  the  Mari- 
time Alps  rises  abruptly  from  the  coast,  and  the  north  wind 
which  prevails  in  winter  deposits  the  greater  part  of  its  mois- 
ture on  them.  The  Apennines,  which  shelter  the  Riviera  di 
Levante,  are  not  sufficiently  high  to  have  this  effect.  On 
the  Eastern  Riviera  Genoa  and  Spezia  have  the  greatest 
number  of  rainy  days  during  the  winter,  while  Nervi  has 
the  fewest.  The  rainfall  increases  far  more  rapidl}'  from  Nervi 
to  Genoa  than  it  does  from  Nervi  to  Spezia.  In  point  of 
shelter  Nervi  is  equally  favoured.  As  a  rule  the  less  pro- 
tection there  is  from  the  north  the  more  brisk  and  bracing 
is  the  air;  this  should  be  favourable  to  such  invalids  as  are 
not  consumptive.  The  dust  is  not  so  troublesome  on  the 
Eastern  as  on  the  Western  Riviera,  owing  to  the  different 
nature  of  the  material  used  in  making  the  roads.  The  lime- 
stone used  for  this  purpoes  on  the  Ponente  is  soon  ground 
into  fine  dust  which  is  easily  stirred  up,  while  the  shale  of 
the  Levante  crumbles  into  coarser  and  heavier  particles. 

Manv  who  are  not  themselves  consumptive  hesitate  to 
sojourn  in  a  place  which  harbours  manv  invalids.  It  is  to 
the  distinct  advantage  of  Alentone  that  a  Sanatorium  has 
l)een  built  in  the  Gorbio  vallev  which  takes  in  such  cases. 
So  that  hotels  can  now,  without  inflicting  hardship,  refuse 
admittance  to  them. 

The  whole  coast  between  Mentone  and  Nice  is  ad- 
mirably sheltered  from  the  north.  Unfortunatelv  the  land 
bordering  the  sea  at  this  spot  is  largelv  in  the  hands  of 
private  owners,  so  that  the  onlv  means  of  communication  re- 
maining open  are  the  raihvav  and  the  high  road.  Motor 
cars  monopolise  this  latter,  making  it  intolerable  to  invalids 
and  interfering  with  the  enjoyment  of  healthv  people. 
Beaulieu,  which  is  included  in  this  district,  is  specially  fav- 
oured, since  it  possesses  a   path,   free   from    dust,   along  the 


XIV  INTRODUCTION. 


eastern  side  of  Cap  Ferrat  following  the  sea  for  several  kilo- 
metres. Moreover  this  path  is  so  lovely  that  one  never  tires  of  it. 

Cannes  is  the  first  place  west  of  Nice  which  is  suf- 
ficiently protected  from  the  north  for  people  with  weak 
chests.  Even  here  manv  plants  begin  to  suffer  which  thrive 
east  of  Nice;  and  this  shows  that  the  climatic  conditions  are 
becoming  less  favourable.  Besides,  the  shore  of  Cannes  is 
not  completelv  sheltered  from  the  Mistral,  and  for  this  reason 
the  hotels  are  built  farther  inland.  They  occupy  the  nearer 
hills  which  slope  gentlv  to  the  sea.  Some  of  them  are  situated 
even  as  far  back  as  Le  Cannet.  For  the  same  reason  Cimiez, 
which  stands  well  back  from  the  coast  to  the  north  of  Nice, 
is  now  in  such  favour  as  a  health  resort.  This  spot  was  al- 
ready esteemed  bv  the  Romans  on  account  of  its  mild 
climate,  and  was  a  favourite  winter  resort  with  them.  Hyeres 
has  deservedlv  lost  much  of  the  reputation  it  once  enjoyed, 
for  it  lies  at  the  mercy  of  the  icv  Mistral.  Those  who  desire 
bracing  air,  invigorating  exercise,  and  a  wide  range  of  ex- 
cursions on  the  Western  Riviera,  should  choose  Cap  d'Antibes 
or  Bordighera  for  a  prolonged  stav  :  or  if  they  prefer  the 
Eastern  Riviera,  Sestri  Levante.  Bordighera  and  Sestri  Le- 
vante  afford  ample  facilities  for  excursions  inland,  while  at 
Antibes  you  mav  enjoy  delightful  rambles  on  the  hilly  pro- 
montorv  and  the  rockv  shore. 

St.  Raphael  also,  on  the  western  slope  of  the  Esterel, 
deserves  consideration  as  a  spring  resort.  But  its  position 
is  inferior  to  that  of  the  other  places,  and  it  is  very  much 
exposed  to  the  Mistral.  Not  till  the  beginning  of  April  does 
the  wide  valley  of  Frejus,  which  lies  before  us  here,  become 
spring-like.  Valescure,  above  St.  Raphael,  lies  among  Pine- 
woods  overlooking  the  vallcA'  of  the  Argens,  and  command- 
ing a  view  of  the  Montagues  des  Maures.  In  favourable 
weather  a  short  time  mav  be  spent  here.  But  the  climate 
is  cool,  and  for  this  reason  it  was  specially  patronised  by 
the  Romans  as  a  summer  resort. 


INTROULCTIUN.  XV 


Excursions  into  the  Esterel  are  warmly  recommended 
to  lovers  of  Nature.  St.  Raphael  or  Valescure,  or  better 
still  Le  Travas,  form  excellent  starting  points.  Visitors  to 
Lc  Travas  will  be  struck  hv  the  red  porphyry  rocks  rising 
from  the  blue  Mediterranean.  Unfortunately,  with  the  com- 
pletion of  the  so-called  ''Corniche  d'Or",  this  hitherto  un- 
frequented district  has  become  infested  by  motor  cars.  This 
high  road,  which  now  skirts  the  foot  of  the  Esterel,  is  hap- 
pilv  at  some  distance  from  the  sea,  so  that  one  can  still 
wander  unmolested  on  the  purple  shore. 

Lasth',  sturtiv  pedestrians  will  fmd  the  Montagnes  des 
Maures  a  good  district  for  extended  excursions  among  the 
evergreen  woods.  The  ''Chemin  de  fer  du  Sud  de  la  France'' 
follows  the  coast,  where  manv  a  place  invites  one  to  linger. 
The  hotels  here  are  patronised  chieHy  by  BVench  people. 
These  etablishments  are  not  always  as  comfortable  as  might 
be  desired,  but  the  cuisine  is  excellent.  Several  days  might 
be  pleasantlv  spent  at  vSte.  Maxime  and  the  tour  continued 
to  Hveres  and  Toulon,  terminating  at  Tamaris.  This  latter 
]:)lace  is  connected  with  Toulon  bv  local  steamers.  It  is  a  small 
winter  resort  and  is  situated  inside  the  roadstead  of  Toulon. 
Georges  Sand  once  honoured  it  by  a  visit;  but  it  is  swept  by  the 
Mistral  and  excursions  are  rendered  difficult  because  all  the 
neighbouring  hills  are  crowned  with  fortifications. 

Last  winter  was  exceedingly  mild  on  the  Riviera;  there 
was  almost  uninterrupted  sunshine  from  January  to  the  middle 
of  April.  But  this  is  not  alwavs  the  case.  The  spring  can 
be  verv  rainv,  and  March  is  often  the  wettest  month  of  the 
whole  vear.  But  as  a  rule  bad  weather  does  not  last  long, 
and  in  anv  case  the  climate  of  the  Riviera  in  spring  is  more 
endurable  than  north  of  the  Alps.  The  sunny  days  of  March 
and  April  on  that  lovelv  coast  are  beautiful  beyond  de- 
scription, and  are  only  too  often  the  brightest  of  the  whole 
vear  for  us.  So  that,  when  spring  approaches,  an  irresistible 
lonofine  for  the  shores  of  the  Mediterranean  comes  over  me. 


XVI  INTRODUCTION. 


It  is  true  that,  on  returning  home  from  one  of  these  visits, 
it  is  doubly  hard  when  May,  instead  of  promised  delight, 
brings  only  rain  and  cold. 

There  are  but  few  districts  in  Europe  which  enjoy  so 
sunny  a  climate  as  does  the  Riviera  —  perhaps  onlv  Greece 
and  parts  of  south  and  central  Spain.  When  it  does  begin 
to  rain  on  the  Riviera  the  downpour  is  heavv,  so  that,  strange 
as  it  may  appear,  the  yearlv  rainfall  in  Nice  is,  on  the  average, 
greater  than  that  of  Paris,  Berlin  and  even  London.  As 
much  as  300  millimetres  of  rain  has  been  known  to  fall  in 
twenty-four  hours  with  a  south-west  wind.  This  wind,  called 
the  Libeccio,  rarely  blows  in  winter.  At  this  time  of  year 
it  is  generally  the  south-west  and  east  winds  which  bring 
rain.  We  suffered  much  from  the  east  wind,  the  Levant, 
during  several  of  our  spring  visits,  but  the  Sirocco,  the  south- 
east w^ind,  is  usually  drv  on  the  western  Riviera.  The  Tra- 
montane, or  north  wind,  prevails  in  winter,  and  to  it  the 
Riviera  owes  its  sunnv  climate.  It  is  well  for  the  traveller 
if  this  wind  should  continue  into  the  spring.  It  is  hardly 
to  be  felt  in  the  sheltered  spots  of  the  Riviera  as  it  strikes 
the  sea  at  a  considerable  distance  from  the  shore,  raising  big 
waves  when  it  blows  hard.  The  Mistral  spreads  fanwise 
over  the  Mediterranean  and  strikes  the  Ponente  from  the 
north-west.  At  times  it  blows  very  strongly  in  Nice,  but 
with  less  violence  in  Mentone,  finallv  dving  out  at  Bordighera. 
It  always  sweeps  the  sky  clear,  however  cloudv,  but  leaves 
it  as  it  found  it ;  for  the  clouds  rapidly  gather  again  as  soon 
as  the  wind  drops.  In  fine  settled  weather  there  is  a  light 
land  breeze  on  the  Riviera  in  the  morning,  from  the  cooler 
coast  towards  the  warmer  sea.  The  temperature  of  the  land 
then  rises  with  the  sunshine,  whereupon  the  sea  breeze  sets 
in,  from  the  cooler  sea  towards  the  warmer  land.  It  is  well 
to  be  careful  at  this  time,  for  the  temperature  of  the  land 
falls  rapidly  —  often  several  degrees.  At  sunset  also  the  air 
cools  very  quickly  in  consequence  of  the  sudden  precipitation 


INTRODUCTION.  XVII 


of  dew.  Many  Invalids  feel  an  unpleasant  chill  then,  which 
mav  prove  injurious  to  them.  But  soon  after  sunset  the 
thermometer  begins  to  rise  again  and  a  gentle  breeze  blows 
from  the  slowly  cooling  land  to  the  sea,  which  maintains  a 
more  even  temperature.  This  current  of  air  lasts  till  the  next 
morning  unless  there  is  a  change  of  weather.  In  winter  and 
early  spring  the  difference  in  temperature  between  sun  and 
shade  is  so  great  that  even  strong  people  should  beware  of 
chills  and  not  go  too  lightly  clad.  Fogs  are  almost  unknown 
on  the  Riviera;  the  air  is  remarkably  clear  and,  as  a  result, 
the  sky  is  of  the  deepest  blue.  Thus  on  this  favoured  shore 
does  Nature  appear  ever  to  wear  her  festal  robes,  and  by 
her  radiance  awaken  in  man  the  deepest  feelings  of  joy 
and  hope. 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


/\t  the  beginning  of  the  Preface,  the  Introduction  and 
each  of  the  five  Journeys  which  compose  this  book,  there  is 
a  vignette  representing  some  particularly  beautiful  spot  on 
the  Riviera.  Thus  at  the  head  of  the  Preface  (p.  VIT)  we  have 
the  varied  outline  of  the  Esterel  range  which  so  charms  us 
from  Golfe  Jouan.  At  the  beginning  of  the  Introduction 
(p.  XI)  the  chain  of  the  Maritime  Alps  is  depicted,  as  seen 
from  the  Cap  d'Antibes.  Then  follows,  as  heading  to  the 
First  Journey,  (p.  1)  a  view  of  the  old  town  of  Antibes, 
with  its  works  of  defence,  and  the  snow-clad  Alps  in  the 
background.  The  vignette  in  the  Second  Journey  (p.  151)  is 
a  coast  scene  of  the  purple  rocks  near  Le  Trayas ;  while  that 
in  the  Third  Journev  (p.  215)  represents  the  old  town  of  Cannes 
on  the  Mt.  Chevalier.  At  the  beginning  of  the  Fourth  Journev 
(p.  265)  is  the  glorious  view  over  Mentone  from  the  Pont 
St.  Louis ;  and  finally,  as  heading  to  the  Fifth  Journey 
(p.  337),  we  have  the  promontory  of  Portofino,  with  a  cloud\ 
sky  and  a  rough  sea  dashing  its  waves  against  the  Marine 
Parade   of  Nervi. 

With  one  exception  the  plants  chosen  to  illustrate  this 
volume  are  wild.  They  are  nearly  all  species  which  blossom 
in  spring,  and  which  attract  the  attention  of  even  the  unbot- 
anical,  either  on  account  of  their  beauty  of  form,  bright 
colouring,  strong  scent  or  wide  distribution. 


LIST   OF   ILLUvSTRATlONS. XIX 

I  have  not  figured  anv  cultivated  plants,  for  their  names 
are  easv  to  ascertain  in  the  gardens  of  the  Riviera. 

It  has  not  been  found  ]:)ossible  to  introduce  the  pictures 
on  the  pages  where  the  flowers  are  mentioned,  therefore  I 
have  spread  them  through  the  text  in  the  alphabetical  order 
of  the  scientific  names. 

Acacia  Farnesiana,  from  the  Alortola  Gardens,  p.  5. 
Acetabularia    mediterranea,    from    the    sea    near   the    lie    Ste. 

Marguerite,  gathered  in  Autumn,  p.  '•. 
Adiantum   Capillus  \'eneris,    from   the  Gorbio   \'alley,    p.   13. 
Algae,  see  Marine  Algae. 
Anemone  coronaria,  from  Mentone,  p.   17. 
Anemone  pavonina,  from  Mentone,  p.  21. 
Anemone  stellata,  from  the  Cap  d"Antibes,  p.  25. 
Anthocharis  Euphenoides,    male  butterfly:    the  female  is  not 

yellow,  p.   143. 
Anthvllis  Barba    jovis,  from  Beaulieu,  p.  29. 
Antirrhinum    latifolium,     irom    the    neighbourhood    of    \'ille- 

franche,  p.  33. 
Arbutus  Unedo,   with  unripe  fruits,  from  Mentone.    The  fruits 

ripen  in  October  and  November;    then   the   tree    begins 

to  flower  again,  p.  37. 
Arisarum   vulgare,    two   flowers,   and  leaf   of   Arum    italicum, 

from  Mentone.  p.   41. 
Arum  Arisarum,  see  Arisarum  vulgare. 
Arum    italicum,   leaf,    and   two   flowers   of   Arisarum   vulgare, 

p.  41. 
Asparagus  acutifolius,  from  Sestri  Levante;    flowers  in  May, 

p.  45. 
Asphodelus  ramosus,  a  branch  of  the  inflorescence,  from  the 

He  Ste.  Marguerite.     (The  closely   related  A.  albus   may 

be  found  in  the  Esterel.)  p.  49. 
Bay  Tree,  see  Laurus. 
Bindweed,  see  Convolvulus. 


XX LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Bryopsis  plumosa,  from  the  harbour  of  Antibes,  p.  53. 
Buckthorn,  see  Rhamnus  Alaternus. 
Butterflies,  see  Anthocharis,  Rhodocera,  and  Thais. 
Callithamnion  roseum,  from  the  sea  near  the  Cap  d' Antibes, 

p.  57. 
Calycotome  spinosa,  from  the  Cap  d'Antibes,  p.  61. 
Caper,  see  Capparis  spinosa. 
Capparis    spinosa,    from     Grasse ;       flowers    in    the    autumn, 

p.  65. 
Centranthus  ruber,  from  La  Mortola,  p.  71. 
Cineraria  maritima,   from   Nervi;    flowers  in  January,   p.  77. 
Cistus  albidus,  from  the  Cap  d'Antibes,  p.  83. 
Cistus  monspeliensis,  from  the  Cap  d'Antibes,  p.  89. 
Cistus  salviifoHus    from  Mentone,  p.  95, 
Cladophora  laetevirens,   from   the   sea  at  the  Cap   d'Antibes, 

p.   101. 
Cneorum  tricoccum,  from  the  Cap  d'Antibes,  p.   107. 
Codium  Bursa,  from  the  Bay  of  Villefranche,  p.   113. 
Convolvulus  althaeoides,  from  Mentone,  p.  119. 
Coriaria     myrtifolia,      from    the    high-road    at    La    Mortola, 

p.   125. 
Cytisus  triflorus,  from  Sestri  Levante,  p.   131. 
Cystoseira  ericoides,   from  the  sea   at  Cap  d'Antibes,  p.  137. 
Cytinus  Hypocistis,  from  the  Cap  d'Antibes,  p.   157. 
Daphne  Gnidium,  from  Mentone,  p.   163. 
Delesseria    Hypoglossum,    from    the    sea    at    Cap    d'Antibes; 

drawn  from  a  dried  specimen,  p.   169, 
Erica  arborea,  from  Sestri  Levante,  p.  175, 
Euphorbia  spinosa,  from  the  Cap  d'Antibes,  p.   181, 
Galactites  tomentosa,  from  Villefranche,  p,   187, 
Gladiolus  segetum,  from  the  Cap  d'Antibes,  p.   193, 
Glaucium  luteum,  from  the  He  St,  Honorat,  p,  201, 
Globularia  Alypum,  from  Mentone,  p,  207. 
Goat's-beard,  see  Tragopogon, 
Halimeda  Opuntia,  from  the  sea  at  Nervi,  p.  221. 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. XXI 

Heath,  see  Erica. 

Helichrvsum    Stoechas,    a    portion    of    the   under-shrub    with 

withered  infructescense,  from  the  Cap  d'Antibes;  flowers 

in  summer,  p.  227. 
Honeysuckle,  see  Lonicera. 
Inula  viscosa,  with  withered  flower-heads  of  the  previous  year; 

flowers  at  midsummer;  p.  239. 
Jasmine,  see  Jasminum. 

Jasminum  fruticans,  from  the  Cap  d'Antibes,  p.  233. 
Juniper,  see  Juniperus. 
Juniperus,  Oxycedrus;  twig  with  half-ripe  fruits,  from  Mentone, 

p.  245. 
Kermes  Oak,  see  Quercus  coccifera. 
Laurel,  see  Laurus  nobilis. 
Laurus    nobilis,    twig    with    flowers  and    fruits,     from    Nice, 

p.  251. 
Laurustinus,  see   Viburnum  Tinus. 
Lavandula  Stoechas,  from  Mentone,  p.  257. 
Lavatera  arborea,  from  the  Cap  d'Antibes,  p.  263. 
Lavatera  maritima,  from  the  Pont  St.  Louis,  Mentone,  p.  271. 
Lavender,  see  Lavandula. 

Lonicera  implexa,  from  the  He  Ste.  Marguerite,  p.  277. 
Lotus  ornithopodioides,  from  the  Cap  d'Antibes,  p.  283. 
Maiden  hair  fern,  see  Adiantum. 
Mallow,  see  Lavatera. 
Marine    Algae,     see    Acetabularia,     Bryopsis,     Callithamnion, 

Cladophora,    Codium,    Cistoseira,    Delesseria,     Halimeda, 

Nitophyllum,    Padina,    Peyssonnelia,    Sphacellaria. 
Matthiola  incana,    from    the  Castle    on    the   He    St.   Honorat, 

p.  289. 
Moricandia   arvensis,   from   the   side   of   the   high   road  at  La 

Mortola,  p.  295. 
Narcissus  Tazetta,  from  the  neighbourhood  of  Antibes,  p.  301. 
Nitophyllum  punctatum,  from  the  sea  at  the  Cap  d'Antibes; 

drawn  from  a  dried  specimen,  p.  307. 


XXII LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Oak,  see  Quercus. 

Ophrys  Bertolonii,  from  the  Park  Sella  at  Antibes,  p.  313. 

Orchids,  see  Ophrys  and  Serapias. 

Padina  Pavonina,  from  the  sea  at  the  He  St.  Honorat,  p.  319. 

Passerina  hirsuta,  from  the  Cap  d'Antlbes,  p.  325. 

Peysonnellia  Squammaria,  from  the  sea  at  the  He  St.  Honorat, 

p.  331. 
Phillvrea  angustifolla,  from  Mentone,  p.  343. 
Pistachia  Lentlscus,   from  the  Cap  d' Antibes:   staminate   and 

carpellary,  p.  349. 
Pitch  Clover,  see  Psoralea. 
Psoralea  bituminosa,    from    the  Villa  Piuma,    Sestri  Levante 

flowers  in  July,  p.  355. 
Quercus  coccifera,  a  twig  from  the  Cap  d' Antibes,  p.  359. 
Quercus  Ilex,  a  twig  from  the  Cap  d' Antibes,  p.  363. 
Red  Valerian,   see  Centranthus  ruber. 

Rhamnus  Alaternus :    the   staminate   branch    from    Sestri    Le- 
vante, the  carpellary,  with  infructescence,  from  the  Cap 

d' Antibes,  p.  367. 
Rhodocera  Cleopatra,  male  butterfly :  the  female  has  no  orange 

patches    on    the    forewings,    and    is    like    our    Brimstone 

(R.  Rhamni),  p.  143. 
Rosmarinus  officinalis,  from  Mentone,  p.  371. 
Rosemary,  see  Rosmarinus. 

Salvia  horminoides,  from  the  Cap  d' Antibes,  p.  375. 
Selaginella  denticulata,  from  Mentone,  p.  379. 
Serapias  Lingua,  from  Spezia,  p.  383. 
Smilax  aspera,  from  Sestri  Levante ;  twig  with  half-ripe  fruits, 

p.  387. 
Smyrnium  Olusatrum,  from  the  Gorbio  valley,  p.  391. 
Snapdragon,  see  Antirrhinum. 
Spanish  Broom,  see  Spartium  junceum. 
Spartium  junceum,  from  the  Cap  d'Antibes,  p.  395. 
Sphacellaria   Scoparia,    from   the    sea   at  the   Cap   d'Antibes, 

p.  399. 


LIST   OF   ILLUSTRATIONS.  XXIII 

Spurge,  see  Euphorbia. 

Strawberry  tree,  see  Arbutus. 

Stock,  see  Matthiola. 

Thais  Polyxena  (Butterfly);  both  sexes  are  alike,  p.   195. 

Tragopogon  australis,  from  the  Park  Sella  Antibes,  p.  403. 

Tree  Heath,  see  Erica  Arborea. 

Tulipa  clusiana,  from  Mentone^  p.   407. 

\^iburnum  Tinus,  from  the  Esterel,  p.  411. 

\^itex   Agnus-castus,    from   St.    Tropez ;     flowers   in    summer, 

p.  415. 
Yellow  horned  Poppv,  see  Glaucium  Luteum. 


FIKiST  JOUMEY. 


CHAPTER  I. 

it  was  the  middle  of  March.  We  expected  sunny 
sprhig  weather  on  the  Riviera,  and  yet  it  rained  per- 
sistently. Day  and  night  we  heard  the  rain  beating 
against  the  windows,  now  heavih',  now  lightly,  but  always 
with  wearisome  monotony  so  that  the  hours  seemed  inter- 
minable to  us.  We  laid  our  books  aside  disheartened. 
Our  recreations  lost  interest.  We  grumbled  bitterly 
about  the  weather.  So  man\'  had  hurried  southwards 
in  the  confident  anticipation  of  finding  the  much  extolled 
blue  sky  on  the  other  side  of  the  Alps;  and  of  seeing 
the  moonlight  mirrored  in  the  Midland  Sea;  and  now 
all  our  hopes  were  blighted.  I,  who  had  often  spent  the 
spring  in  Italy  before,  regarded  the  situation  with  greater 
equanimity.  I  knew  that  it  often  rained  even  in  Italy 
at  this  time  of  ^■ear.  How  could  the  lields  and  gardens 
of    Itah-     bear    fruit    if  they   were  not  watered  in  spring 


SPRING  x\T  BORDIGHERA. 


and  late  autumn,  when  the  greatest  drought  prevails 
during  the  remainder  of  the  year? 

What  invariably  draws  me  to  the  South  in  the 
spring,  in  spite  of  these  apparently  not  very  favourable 
prospects,  is  the  longing  for  green  fields  and  leafy  trees, 
sunshine  and  warmth;  the  assurance  of  finding  by 
the  Mediterranean  milder  weather  than  in  the  North, 
and  the  hope  of  enjoying  many  sunny  days  —  perhaps, 
if  fortune  favour,  an  uninterrupted  series  of  such  days. 
After  the  long,  bleak,  cold,  northern  winter  the  contrast 
is  all  the  more  agreeable.  We  rejoice  over  the  scantiest 
verdure  and  welcome  every  ray  of  sunshine.  On  the 
other  hand  in  the  autumn  many  a  dweller  on  the  sun- 
burnt plains  of  Lombardy  longs  for  the  fresh  Alpine 
meadows  and  the  luxuriant  forests.  Autumn  is  usually 
fine  in  our  northern  latitudes ;  whereas  our  March  and 
April  are  justly  notorious.  This  was  the  case  on  the 
present  occasion,  for  while  letters  and  newspapers  brought 
us  complaints  of  cold  and  snow  north  of  the  Alps,  we 
on  the  Mediterranean  were  before  long  enjo-\'ing  the 
most  glorious  sunshine.  By  Easter  the  weather  had 
become  beautiful.  Earth  and  sky  assumed  their  festal 
array,  and  were  wrapped  in  the  brightest  effulgence. 

Easter  Sunday  found  me  in  Bordighera.  Before 
day-break  I  started  to  ascend  the  Monte  Nero;  but 
remained  spellbound  on  the  Cap  d'Ampeglio  waiting  for 
the  sunrise.  Transfigured  and  spectral  Corsica  rose  from 
the  deep  in  the  far  distance.  My  enchanted  gaze  first 
rested  upon  it,  and  then  wandered  to  the  indented  coast 
which,    curving  in  its    wide  sweep,    seemed    as  though  it 


SLNKIS1-:    1-KoM    CAP   DA.MPEGLiO 


would  enibratH'  the  sea.  The  east  was  ajTlow,  and  the 
purple  lii^dit  tin<red  the  crests  of  the  steel-blue  waves 
with  its  warm  tones.  Not  a  cloudlet  flecked  the  sky, 
which  passed  troni  deepest  blue  above  into  tender  green 
as  it  neared  the  sea.  Suddenl\-  the  red  orb  of  the  sun 
rose,  sending  its  tierv  raws  over  the  wide  waters  as 
though  to  kindle  a  vast  conflagration:  and  a  thousand 
ra\s  penetrated  the  deep  bays  and  dark  valle^•s  of  the 
coast,  driving  awa\-  the  shades  of  night.  The  houses 
of  Monaco  blazed  in  the  distance  as  though  on  fire,  and 
even  remote  Antibes  threw  back  golden  gleams  as  a 
morning  greeting  to  the  sun.  The  whole  landscape  was 
illuminated,  and  all  Nature  responded  with  a  jubilant 
thrill.  Thus  on  that  loveh'  morning  by  the  blue  Mediter- 
ranean did  Heaven  and  Earth  celebrate  the  festival  of 
the  Resurrection. 

I  was  lost  in  contemplation  of  this  spectacle  and 
lieedless  of  the  lapse  of  time,  so  that  the  sun  stood  high 
in  the  sk\'  before  I  resumed  m\-  wanderings.  The  whole 
surface  of  the  sea  sparkled  with  innumerable  lights  as 
though  it  were  sprinkled  with  diamonds.  Distant  Corsica 
gradualh'  faded  into  a  mist\'  streak  as  if  it  had  been 
but  a  vision.  Before  me  on  the  Cap  d'Ampeglio  la^' 
Old  Bordighera.   now   bathed  in    sunlight. 

The  ascent  of  Monte  Xero  is  said  to  take  two 
hours  —  at  least  some  people  told  me  the\'  had  heard 
so  —  tor  in  truth  I  did  not  succeed  in  finding  anyone 
who  could  boast  of  ever  having  been  to  the  top. 
Witliout  some  strong  inducement  the  natives  here  hardh- 
ever    climb  a   m  ountain  of  nny  height ;    onh'  one  passion 

1 


MONTE   NERO. 


—  that  of  shooting  —  will  tempt  them  into  such  high 
regions,  although  they  find  there  only  small  birds  to 
satisfy  their  love  of  "sport". 

So  that  after  vainly  seeking  for  a  companion  I  had 
to  find  my  wav  alone  up  Monte  Nero.  Then  it  turned 
out  after  all  that  the  summit  is  thickly  wooded,  and 
consequently  the  much  vaunted  view  is  not  to  be  had ; 
in  fact  there  is  no  free  outlook  in  any  direction.  The 
north  slope  of  the  mountain  soon  rewarded  me  richly 
for  the  labour  of  the  ascent.  It  led  me  to  the  Col 
which  connects  Monte  Nero  with  the  much  higher  Monte 
Caggio.  From  this  clear  point  of  vantage  the  gaze 
could  penetrate  unimpeded  into  the  deep  valleys,  range 
over  undulating  hills,  follow  the  long  stretch  of  shore, 
and  lose  itself  in  the  distance  over  the  sea.  To  the 
east,  beyond  the  long  slope  on  which  rests  Coldirodi, 
a  part  of  San  Remo  can  be  seen ;  in  the  north-west  the 
might}'  giants  of  the  Maritime  Alps  attract  the  eve  with 
their  snow-clad  tops.  The  dazzling  white  peaks  stood 
out  with  marvellous  distinctness  against  the  azure  sky; 
while  lower  down  on  the  slopes,  the  dark  green  of  the 
Pines,  whence  Monte  Nero  takes  its  name,  passes  into 
the  lighter  green  of  the  Olives,  and  merges  into  the 
luminous  blue  with  which  the  endless  waters  of  the  sea 
close  up  the  horizon  as  with  a  wall.  There  are  few 
scenes,  even  in  Itah',  which  can  compare  with  this  for 
beauty.  This  view,  in  truth,  combines  all  those  elements 
which  may  delight  the  eye,  charm  the  aesthetic  sense 
and  rouse  the  imagination.  But  the  sight  of  yonder 
Alpine  snow-fields  had  turned  the  current  of  my  thoughts 


FLOWERS    AT    BOkDK  il  IICRA. 


northwards.    \\']iat  bitinq'  cold  niiq-ht  not  prevail  be\'ond 
those  mountains!      1  lere,  south  ot  their  sheltering  barrier, 


spring    had    triumphed    over    winter.       The 
Resurrection       ol       Xature       was       accom- 
and    the    pealing    of    the    Easter    bells, 
was    watted   uj^) wards    to  Alonte  Nero'"''' 
the  \'alle\s,  seemed  to  bear  onh'  messages 
of    joy     to    the     illuminated    heights 
above. 

^rhe    prett\'    garden    ot    the 
Angst    was   in    full    luxuriance;    the 
beds  resembled  baskets  of  tlowers 
The  huge  bushes  of  the  Cape  Pela 
goniimi  were  covered  with  vermilioi 
flowers,  the  Peruvian  Heliotrope  w: 
trained  up  the  house  and  filled  the 
air    with    its  perfume  of  \"anilla. 
Carnations,      ^Mignonette      and 
vellow  Tea  Roses  added  their    J. 
fragrance.   The  leaves  of  ever-    ' 
green  trees    shone    in    the  flood  ( 
light  with  metallic  sheen,  throwin; 
sharph'-defined,     dark-blue    shado 
on  the  paths.     Under  the   droopine 
foliage  of  the  Palms,  in  the  height 
of  bliss,    sat  a  ncwh-mariied    cou[" 
who    were    fortunate    enough    t(j    b 
spending    their    honevmoon    \i\    the 
Mediterranean.  This  Easter  Sunda\', 
so  saturated  with   sunshine    and    so         Acacia  rameuami. 


great 


BORDIGHERA. 


bedecked  with  flowers,  on  which  Nature  had  lavished  all  her 
treasures,  would  ever  remain  one  of  the  brightest  of  their  lives. 

No  fewer  than  four  valleys  debouch  on  the  narrow 
stretch  of  coast  which  lies  between  Cap  d'Ampeglio  and 
Ventimiglia.  For  this  reason  Bordighera  forms  an  ad- 
mirable centre  for  excursions,  which  admit  of  great 
variety.  The  accommodation  at  the  Hotel  Angst  is  so 
good  that  one  willingly  prolongs  one's  stay  there. 
I  cannot  say  whether  Bordighera  is  also  a  suitable 
resort  for  people  suffering  from  chest  complaints.  Pro- 
jecting as  it  does  into  the  sea  it  is  exposed  to  most 
winds.  Yet  these,  inasmuch  as  they  blow  across  the 
sea,  are  less  cold  and  dry  than  those  of  many  resorts  on 
the  Riviera.  Consequently  those  visitors  who  are  in 
search  of  recuperation  —  and  their  number  is  increasing 
yearly  on  the  Riviera  —  tind  the  sea  breezes  of  Bordi- 
ghera very  bracing  and  invigorating. 

Even  on  a  short  visit  to  Bordighera  one  ought  not 
to  omit  an  excursion  to  Sasso,  a  small  place  perched  on 
the  ridge  which  separates  the  valleys  of  Sasso  and  Bor- 
ghetto.  The  whole  ramble  is  not  more  than  four  kilo- 
metres, whether  you  follow  the  vale  of  Sasso  to  the  east 
of  Bordighera,  or  go  straight  up  past  Old  Bordighera 
and  keep  along  the  ridge.  There  is  nothing  worthy  of 
note  in  Sasso  itself;  the  place  looks  pretty  only  from 
a  distance.  Its  high  houses,  welded  together,  as  it  were, 
into  a  single  mass,  their  outer  walls  pierced  only  by  a 
few  windows,  remind  one  of  a  fortress.  And  indeed  these 
places  must  originally  have  been  built  to  resist  the 
attacks  of  pirates.    Sasso  looks  specially  picturesque  when 


SASSO.  —  BOKGETTO.  —  VALLECRQCIA.        7 

seen  I'rom  the  road  which  runs  along  tlie  ridi(e  among 
old  trees.  After  climbing  the  steep  ascent  }'ou  come 
cjuite  suddenh'  upon  this  picture.  On  either  side  lie  the 
vallexs  of  Sasso  and  Borghctto.  and  further  off  that  of 
\'allecrocia;  if  ^•ou  k)()k  up,  the  snow  clad  summits  of 
the  ^hlritime  Alps  gleam  above  the  nearer  liills.  How 
often  have  I  lingered  tor  hours  on  this  ridge,  changing 
my  standpoint  from  time  to  lime  to  admire  the  view  in 
different  settings  I  \ow  it  was  a  solitar\-  and  fantastic 
snow-palace,  framed  in  the  silver\-  green  of  the  Olive 
trees;  or  the  closeh'-packed  houses  of  a  cheejuered  hamlet 
nestling  in  a  valle\':  or  the  silver  course  of  a  sparkling 
stream  winding  its  wixy  to  the  sea  through  Oleander 
bushes:  or  vSasso,  which  appeared  to  lloat  above  the  tree 
tops  as  on  an  ocean  of  verdure :  till  at  last  the  wearied 
e\-e  turned  with  longing  to  the  restful  sea.  What  a  wealth 
of  subjects  for  the  landscape  painter  were  here  combined! 
I  had  to  content  m^-self  with  a  mental  image  of  them 
still  fresh   and  vivid  in   its  bright,  sunny  colouring. 

CHAPTER  II. 

The  Olive  groves  through  which  one  passes  on  the 
way  from  Old  Bordighera  to  Sasso,  are  particularly  fine. 
There  are  man\-  old  and  gnarled  trunks,  some  of  which 
develop  buttress-like  outgrowths  near  the  base  and  look 
as  if  they  were  propped  up.  Involuntarily  does  one  pause 
before  these  trees  to  admire  the  striking  contrast  between 
the  trunks  with  their  deep  shades  and  the  bright  blue 
of  the  sea  and  sk\-.  These  Olive  groves  have  a  subtle 
charm   of  their  own   when   the   full   moon   shines  over   the 

1* 


THE    OLIVE. 


sea.  With  every  breath  of  whid  the  dull  grav  leaves  gleam 
peculiarly  and  the  moon's  silver  ravs  glitter  amongthe  foliage. 
The  moon's  long  path  over  the  water  seems  to  be  instinct  with 
life,  undulating  with  the  waves,  following  them  in  their  course, 
and  breaking  with  them  into  glittering  foam  on  the  shore. 
The  flowering  season  of  the  Olive  is  in  May  or  June. 
The  trees  are  then  thickly  covered  with  small,  yellowish- 
white  flowers,  which  emit  a  pleasant,  migonette-like  per- 
fume. These  flowers  remind  us  of  those  of  the  Privet, 
JLiQ-ustrum  vul^'are,  a  shrub  which  is  closeh"  related  to 
the  Olive.  The  unripe  fruits  of  the  Olive  are  green,  and 
are  therefore  inconspicuous  among  the  foliage :  but  as 
they  ripen  they  become  blue-black,  and  stand  out  dis- 
tinctly, especially  when  the  crop  is  good.  Heavy  crops 
are  expected  every  five  years.  The  aspect  of  the  whole 
tree  is  altered  when  thus  laden  with  the  oval  berries  which 
peep  out  everywhere  from  among  the  foliage.  In  form 
and  colour  ripe  olives  are  not  unlike  our  sloes.  Accor- 
ding to  an  ancient  custom,  not  now  universally  obeyed, 
the  olive  harvest  should  begin  on  November  21  *^-  It 
lasts  through  the  whole  winter  and  is  at  its  height  in 
February  and  March,  though  when  the  crop  has  been 
retarded  by  unfavourable  conditions,  trees  laden  with 
fruit  may  be  seen  even  in  April  in  the  higher  districts. 
Then  men  and  women  are  to  be  seen  with  sacks  and 
baskets  wending  their  way  along  the  paths  which  lead 
to  the  Olive  groves.  Here  the  men  climb  up  into  the 
trees  and  strike  the  branches  with  long  rods.  The  wan- 
derer in  the  Olive  grove  hears  this  rattling  sound  on  all 
sides,  and  from   time  to  time  there  is  the  sharp  crack  of 


OLIVE    HARN'KSTING. 


a  breaking  bough  when  the  stroke  has  been  too  hard.  vSheets 
are  often  spread  under  the  trees  to  catch  the  falling  fruits : 
or  else  women  and  children  squat  on  the  ground  and  pick  up 
the  berries  one  bv  one,  using  both  hands.  One  is  astonished 
at  the  deftness  of  these  olive-gatherers  and  at  their  ability 
to  remain  so  long  in  a  cramped  position.  This  method  of 
knocking  down  the  fruit  must  be  injurious  to  the  trees.  As 
far  back  as  the  first  centur}^  A.  D.,  Plin\'  protested  against 
the  clumsy  custom.  Yet  how  else  could  they  harvest  the 
olives  here  where  the  trees  are  of  considerable  height?  The 
dense  foliage  and  the  unevenness  of  the  ground  make  it 
almost  impossible  to  use  ladders.  It  is  different  in  Provence 
where  the  trees  are  kept  low  by  careful  pruning  in  order  that 
the  berries  may  be  gathered  bv  hand.  These  hand-picked 
being  unbruised  and  uninjured,  ^'ield  the 
table  oil.  But  how  unsightly  are  those 
Provencal  Olive  plantations  with 
their  straight  rows  of  trees  of 
uniform  size.  No  friend 
of  the  Riviera  would  wish 
^^^^?^v  ^^  sacrifice  the  lovely 
Olive  groves,  \\'hich 
lend  such  a  charm  to  the 
scenery,  for  the  sake  of  the 
/  better  oil.  A  fine  qualitv  of  oil  is 
expressed  from  those  fruits  which  ripen 
A  ^».'.  first.  But  in  J?ordighera  the  pea- 
sants wait  until  the  greater  por- 
tion of  the  olives    are   ripe,   and 

Acetabiilaria  mediteirane.i.  h\    that    tiuie     lUUcll     of    the    CrOp 


10  THE    OLIVE. 


will  have  fallen  to  the  ground  of  its  own  accord.  The 
whole  is  then  gathered  up  together,  and  accordingly 
yields  an  inferior  oil  with  a  rancid  flavour.  Generally 
speaking,  on  the  whole  stretch  of  coast  between  Bordi- 
ghera  and  the  Esterel  only  oil  of  inferior  quality-  is  pro- 
duced, such  as  is  used  for  lubricating  or  in  the  manu- 
facture of  soap.  The  finest  oil  of  the  Riviera  comes  from 
the  province  of  Porto  Mauritzio.  The  variet}'  of  Olive 
grown  there  is  called  "Taggiasca",  because  the  romantic 
little  town  of  Taggia  near  San  Remo  is  the  centre  of 
its  cultivation.  In  the  south  of  Italy  the  oil  of  Apulia 
is  highly  esteemed.  But  it  has  not  enjoyed  its  reputation 
for  very  long,  as  formerly  even  Apulian  oil  was  as  bad, 
and  tasted  as  rancid  as  other  Italian  kinds.  For  in  Apulia 
from  time  immemorial  slovenly  methods  of  cultivating 
the  Olive  have  prevailed,  and  the  oil  presses  used  were 
so  bad  that  an  ancient  model  found  in  Pompeii  was 
considered  an  improvement  and  actually  adopted  in  several 
places. 

In  order  to  yield  the  best  table-oil  the  berries  must 
be  freshly  gathered  and  carefully  selected.  They  are 
then  spread  out  in  thin  layers  on  frames,  where  they  are 
dried  in  the  air  or  by  artificial  heat,  until  they  shrivel. 
When  they  have  lost  some  of  their  moisture  by  this  process, 
they  are  sent  to  the  mill  where  the  stones  are  separated 
from  the  pulp,  which  is  then  placed  in  bast  or  jute  sacks 
and  carried  to  the  press.  Here  the  purest  salad-oil,  "olio 
vergine",  trickles  out.  Then  by  the  application  of  gra- 
dually increasing  pressure  the  "superfine"  and  "fine"  qua- 
lities are  expressed.     Once  again  the  pulp  is  returned   to 


OLlX'i:    OIL.  11 

the  oil-mill,  in  which  the  stones  are  also  crushed.  From 
this  only  an  inferior  kind  of  oil  can  be  extracted.  For 
a  third  time  the  oil-mill  is  set  going  and  comploteU' 
grinds  up  the  sediment,  which  has  been  previously  mixed 
with  water.  The  oil  lloats  on  the  surface  of  the  water 
and  is  drawn  off.  This,  being  of  still  less  value,  is  mainly 
used  in  the  manufacture  of  soap.  And  lastly  the  remains 
of  the  stones  and  pulp  are  turned  to  account  as  fuel,  in 
this  land  where  fire-wood  is  scarce. 

Even  the  purest  table  oil  that  llows  from  the  press 
has  to  be  carefulh'  strained  before  it  is  readv  for  sale. 
It  is  poured  into  vats  which  are  stood  one  above  the 
other  in  a  dark  place.  The  unclarified  oil  in  the  upper- 
most vat  finds  its  way  out  at  the  bung-hole,  having 
previousU'  passed  through  wadding  cased  in  perforated 
zinc,  and  flows  into  a  second  vat,  and  from  this,  having 
again  passed  through  wadding,  into  a  third.  This 
wadding  must  be  changed  several  times  in  the  day. 
From  the  third  vat  the  oil  runs  into  cisterns,  which  in 
Xice  are  lined  with  porcelain.  The  oil  has  to  remain 
in  these  three  months  before  it  is  bottled  and  exported. 

The  value  of  each  different  qualit\-  of  oil  is  fixed 
b\'  a  "Degustateur''  (taster),  whose  palate  is  as  highly 
trained  as  is  that  of  the  wine  or  tea  taster.  The  De- 
gustateur  not  only  gives  his  judgment  on  the  sorts  which 
he  tests,  but  he  must  also  be  able  to  detect  adulteration 
by  other  vegetable  oils. 

Most  picturesque  are  the  old  oil-mills  which  one 
meets  with  on  the  rushing  streams  in  the  ravines  around 
Bordighera.      Shaded    b}-    old    trees  and  overgrown  with 


12  THE    OLIVE. 


moss  and  ferns,  they  have  an  intersting  and  venerable 
appearance,  Thither  the  small  peasant  proprietors  of 
Bordighera  convey  their  crop  and  pay  the  miller  either 
in  oil  or  in  olives.  A  liquid  from  these  mills  dyes  the 
streams  brown  so  that  the  sea  is  discoloured  at  their 
mouths. 

An  qld Roman  proverb  runs:  — "extra  oleas  vagari"  — 
to  wander  beyond  the  Olives;  or,  as  we  should  sav,  to 
exceed  or  go  bevond  bounds.  The  meaning  of  this 
saying  is  explained  by  the  ancient  custom  of  planting 
Olive  trees  to  mark  boundaries. 

It  was  said  of  the  Olive  in  ancient  times  that  it 
would  flourish  only  near  the  sea,  and  that  it  never  grew 
more  than  three  hundred  stadia  (seven  and  a  half  geo- 
graphical miles)  inland.  But  the  fact  is  that  the  equable 
climate  w^hich  is  necessary  to  its  full  development  is  pro- 
duced by  the  proximity  of  wide  expanses  of  water.  The 
tree  cannot  stand  prolonged  frost.  The  Olive  is  indi- 
genous in  the  Mediterranean  region  as  is  shown  by  the 
recent  discovery  of  its  leaves  in  the  pliocene  deposits 
of  Mongardino,  18  kilometres  north  west  of  Bologna. 
The  fact  of  the  wild  Olive  being  indigenous  to  Italy  is 
thus  indubitably  established.  On  the  other  hand  its  intro- 
duction as  a  cultivated  plant  was  comparatively  late. 
For  Pliny  mentions  that  according  to  the  chronicler 
Fenestella,  there  was  not  a  single  cultivated  Olive  to 
be  seen  in  Italy  in  the  time  of  Tarquinius  Priscus,  that 
is,  about  580  B.  C.  It  may  well  have  reached  Latium, 
however,  in  the  time  of  the  Tarquins  as  there  was  brisk 
traffic  then  with  the  Greeks  of  Campania.   It  is  also  pro- 


US    INTRODUCTION. 


13 


bable  that  the  culti- 
vation   of   the 
()li\e    oricri- 
nated     in     the 
Kast  and  spre- 
ad over  Egypt, 
Syria  and  Asia 
-;      Minor.  rcachingGreece 
in   pre -Homeric    ti- 
mes,      l^he     culti- 
vation   of    tliis     in- 
valuable    tree     may 
have  reached  the  Li- 
gurian     coast      even 
,   ^y       earlier     tlian     it     did 
Latium.     For    it    is   stated 
that  the  Phoenicians  brought 
it   in  680  B.   C.    to  Massilia,    the 
modern  Marseilles.  Thence  it  must 
forthwith  have  spread  both  inland 
ind  along  the  coast. 

On    the    Riviera   tlie    Olive    tree 

O^  (        ^     finds    tlie    calcareous    soil    which    it 

i  loves,   lint  it  can  also  tlourish  here  on 

Adiantttm      A"^     \ olcauic  soil.    In  any  case  it  is  not  very 


Cafillus 
J'eneris. 


exacting,  and  is  content  with  a  tliin  layer 


of  eartli  resting  immediateh-  upon  rock, 
liut  in  order  to  \ield  heavy  crops  the  tree  retjuires  better 
ground,  where  it  can  be  trenched  and  manured  at  inter- 
vals of  a  few  years.     In  addition  to  the  ordinar\'  manures, 


14  THE    OLIVE   FLY 


the  horns  and  hoofs  of  domestic  animals,  and  old  woollen 
rags  are  used  in  Bordighera  for  this  purpose. 

When  wandering  among  the  olive  groves  of  Bor- 
dighera in  the  spring,  care  must  be  taken  to  avoid  the 
shots  of  the  "Cacciatori",  for  at  this  time  of  the  year 
these  "sportsmen"  invade  every  grove,  garden  and  glade 
in  order  to  shoot  small  birds  —  the  only  game  to  be 
had.  This  passion  has  very  serious  consequences  on  the 
Italian  Riviera,  and  indeed  throughout  the  whole  of 
Italy,  for  the  destruction  of  the  birds  results  in  a  corre- 
sponding increase  of  insects.  Not  only  do  the  cheerful 
songsters  which  gladden  the  woods  and  gardens  of 
other  lands,  disappear  from  Italy,  but  the  number  of 
insect  pests  is  seriouslv  augmented. 

Dacus  oleae,  the  Olive  fly,  is  especially  injurious,  as 
it  feeds  on  the  pulp  of  the  olives.  It  is  called  by  the 
French  "La  Mouche",  and  by  the  Italians  "Macha  del 
Olivo".  This  liv  lays  its  eggs  in  the  very  young  berries; 
and  the  grubs,  when  they  hatch,  live  on  the  maturing 
fruit.  Should  these  worm-eaten  olives  be  taken  to  the 
mill,  thev  depreciate  the  quality  of  the  oil. 

From  a  ramble  among  the  Olives  one  generally 
returns  with  a  bouquet  of  gay  flowers.  For  on  the 
Riviera  these  spring  gifts  of  Flora  are  too  attractive  to 
be  hurriedly  passed  by.  The  dark-blue  musk-scented 
Grape  Hyacinths  are  to  be  seen  everywhere  under  the 
trees.  JShiscari  comosum,  a  species  bearing  an  amethyst- 
coloured  tuft  above  its  otherwise  inconspicuous  inflores- 
cence, is  very  pretty.  Orchids  are  common  among  the 
grass,    especially    an    Ophrvs,    one    of  those  remarkable 


ORCI  in  )S.  1 5 

species  whose  flowers  resemble  insects.  O.  aranifera 
reminds  us  of  a  spider,  and  we  seem  to  see  the  outspread 
legs  and  fat  body  of  one  of  these  creatures.  Another 
species  of  Ophrvs  is  like  a  spider  with  a  purplish-brown 
hodv  ornamented  with  green.  Hut  far  and  awav  the 
])rettiest  of  them  all  is  Op/irvs  JJcr/o/o/nV (Fig.  p.  313).  It  is 
also  so  peculiar  that  it  has  at  all  times  attracted  the 
attention  even  of  the  peasantry.  The  Ligurians,  when 
referring  to  it  sa\':  —  "Oxletti  che  se  spegian",  and 
indeed  it  looks  as  though  a  little  green  bird  had  settled 
in  the  middle  of  the  flower,  and  bending  over,  was 
looking  at  itself  in  a  mirror.  This  little  bird  has  both 
head  and  beak,  and  even  two  red  eyes  in  their  proper 
position.  Five  pink  petals  are  attached  to  its  graceful 
body  as  wings  and  tail,  while  the  mirror  is  borne  on 
the  sixth  petal,  which  is  of  a  dark  purplish-red  colour. 
This  latter  is  much  larger  than  the  other  petals,  turned 
down  and  convex;  it  is  called  the  lip,  or  labellum,  of 
the  flower.  Its  upper  surface  is  velvety  with  the  ex- 
ception of  a  spot  which  represents  the  mirror.  Here 
the  surface  is  smooth  and  of  a  bright  silvery  grey. 
Scientifically  speaking  this  little  bird-like  object  is  a 
remarkable  development  of  the  Gvnostemium.  By  Gvno- 
stemium  is  meant  that  little  column  which,  in  orchids, 
is  formed  by  the  adhesion  of  three  stamens  to  three 
styles.  Only  one  stamen  is  fertile;  its  anther  forms  the 
head  of  the  bird;  the  two  anther-lobes  the  e"ves;  the 
connective  projects  and  forms  the  beak.  The  shin\- 
spot  on  the  labellum  is  due  to  a  reflecting  la\'er  of 
air    intercalated    in    the    tissue.      Light    is    reflected    from 


16  WILD  FLOWERS. 


this    layer    as    though    from    the    metal    coating     of    a 
looking-glass. 

Another  curious  Orchid,  Scrapias  Lingua  (Fig.  p.  383), 
is  often  to  be  met  with  on  grassy  slopes  of  the 
Riviera.  Its  reddish  -  brown  flowers  are  almost  hidden 
in  red  bracts,  showing  only  the  projecting  lip.  The 
flower-lover  will  be  delighted  with  a  tulip  Tiilipa  Clusiaiia 
(Fig.  p.  407),  which  has  white  flowers  striped  on  the 
outside  with  red.  These  are  raised  on  long  stalks.  The  rose- 
red  blossoms  of  the  Gladiolus  segetum  (Fig.  p.  193),  which 
are  arranged  on  one  side  of  the  stem,  light  up  the  fresh 
green  of  the  meadows  and  lields.  Allium  neapolitaimm, 
with  its  white  flowers,  gathered  from  the  outskirts  of  the 
garden  will  be  a  welcome  addition  to  a  bouquet:  for  it 
has  a  pleasant  perfume,  although  belonging  to  the  Garlics. 
But  it  is  the  ^•ellow  Tazetta  {Xarcissiis  Tazetta,  Fig.  p.  301 ) 
which  lends  the  choicest  fragrance  to  the  boue{uet, 
while  the  Anemones  {A.  coronaria,  Fig.  p.  17,  stellata. 
Fig.  p.  25,  and  pavonina.  Fig.  p.  21),  supply  brilliant 
colouring. 

The  culture  of  the  Vine  dates  back  as  far  as  that 
of  the  Olive ;  hence  thev  have  always  been  mentioned 
together.  In  his  Natural  Histor^■  the  elder  Pliny  says 
that  "Two  liquids  are  particularly  beneflcial  to  the  human 
bodv  —  internallv  wine,  externallv  oil ;  both  are  derived 
from  the  \^egetable  World  and  are  excellent,  but  oil 
is  the  more  necessary".  When  the  Emperor  Augustus 
asked  the  centenarian  Pollio  Romilius  by  what  means 
he  had  kept  himself  so  hale,  he  replied,  "By  wine  and 
honev    internallv,     and    oil    externallv".       The     ancients 


North  Carolina  State  Library 
'^   Raleigh  AWN 

TBI-:    NINE. 


17 


nibbed  tlioir  bodies  with  o\\  alter  batliin^";  now-a-days 
oil  is  no  lono"er  in  voi4"ue  as  an  external  application, 
unless  it  be  in  the  lorni  of  Marseilles  oil-soap.  This 
(iraeco-Eastern  use  of  oil  survives  onh-  in  the  solemn 
anointini:^  of  a  monarch  and  in  extreme  unction.  In 
France  the  anointing  of  the  Kings  at  Rheims  was  per- 
formed with  great  pomp  well  into  the  last  centur\',  al- 
though the  vial  (la  sainte  ampoule)  of  Clodwig,  which  ac- 


cording to  legend  was  brouifht 
heaven    b\-   a    dove,     was 
the  time  of  the  Revolution, 
known  to  the  ancients,  who 
oil  for  anointing  their  bodies, 
is  a  northern  in^'ention. 

As  in  Plin^■"s  book  the  Olive 
and  \  ine  are  mentioned  side  hv   ^%^ 
side,  so  also  on    the   Riviera    are 
thev  to  be  met  with   side   b^•    side. 
The  Olive  predominates,  however,    / 
in  the  immediate  vicinit\'  of  the 
sea,     while    the    \'ine    on    the 
contrar\'  shuns  the  shore.     But 
it  is   less    sensitive    to    cold 
and      can      therefore      be      ^ 
grown  further  north.  Thus   ^^^^^^^  s^  v    .^ 
in  the  Middle  Ages  the    u_S^ — t^ 
cultivation    of    the    \'ine     "Qt/^^^^.i^'V /*^    penetra- 
ted as  far  north  as  P>ast   (1^,7^     V^       Prussia. 
and  even  as  far  as  Tilsit:     V     %^^    ihhI  the  .Vb- 
bevs  of  Uetersen    and   Preetz. 


down        from 
shattered     at 
Soap,        un- 
made   use    of 


Aiiciiioiic  cofonttfia. 


18  THE  VINE. 


in  Schleswig-Holstein  possessed  a  few  vineyards.  If  the 
Vine  retreated,  later  on,  in  a  westerly  and  southerly 
direction  it  was  mainly  because  it  was  compelled  to  give 
way  to  more  profitable  crops. 

On  the  Riviera  the  Vine  flowers  in  April.  As  far 
as  climate  is  concerned  it  would  here  yield  a  rich  return; 
but  the  Phylloxera,  as  well  as  parasitic  fungi,  have  done 
much  damage,  with  the  result  that  other  crops  have 
superseded  the  Vine  to  a  great  extent.  Hence  it  is  that 
vineyards  are  not  often  to  be  seen  in  the  frequented 
parts  of  the  Riviera,  and  the  wine  that  is  made  here  is 
used  mainly  b\'  the  natives. 

The  civilised  nations  found  the  Vine  also  indigenous 
on  European  ground.  And  even  today  the  plant  seems 
to  occur  in  a  wild  state  both  north  and  south  of  the 
Alps.  It  would  be  hard  to  prove  that  these  wild  plants 
have  not  escaped  from  cultivation.  But  the  evidence  of 
Palaeobotany  is  quite  conclusive  on  this  point.  For  it 
shows  that  in  the  Middle-Tertiarv  period  —  the  time 
when  the  brown  coal  was  formed  —  the  Vine  inhabited 
our  part  of  the  world.  Thev  were  species  'similar  to 
those  now  living  in  America.  Fossil  remains  of  our 
present  Vine  ( V^i'tis  viuifera)  occur  as  early  as  in  the 
alluvial  tufas  of  northern  France  and  the  travertine  of 
Italy.  At  that  period  of  our  earth's  development  the 
vegetation  of  southern  Europe  already  bore  much  resem- 
blance to  our  own,  although  the  Elephant,  Rhinoceros 
Cave  Bear  and  Urus  had  not  vet  been  driven  out  of 
those  districts  by  man.  Moreover  grape-pips  have  been 
found  in  the  Lake   Dwellings  of  Lake  \'arese  —  a  proof 


Wll.l)   \INES.  19 

that  llu'  Lake  Dwellers  of  the  lironze  Age  were  fond  of 
<rra]H's  I  It  is  established  be^•ond  a  doubt  hv  Engler's 
e\iiausti\e  researches  that  the  wild  Nine  extended  over 
the  whole  ot  Southern  and  a  part  ot  Central  Europe 
before  it  was  introduced  tliere  as  a  culti\ated  ]")lant.  .\t 
present  the  \  ine  is  found  nourishing  luxurianth'  in  the 
districts  around  tlie  Hlack  Sea:  and  von  Steven  aHirms 
tliat  localh'  in  the  L'riniea  wine  is  still  made  from  the 
black,  acid  berries  of  the  wild  Vine.  \'ictor  Ilehn  de- 
scribes in  glowing  terms  tliose  fertile  districts  south  of  the 
Caspian  Sea  where  thick-stemmed  \  ines  climb  to  the 
top  of  tlie  highest  trees  in  the  heart  of  the  forest,  and 
stretching  from  branch  to  branch  festoon  their  summits 
and  tempt  the  wanderer  with  their  heavy  bunches  of 
fruit.  Eupfler  saw  the  \  ine  "■rowing'  as  a  thick  Liana 
in  the  dense  woods  of  Bajukdere  near  Constantinople. 
The  cultivation  of  the  \'ine  seems  from  all  appearances 
to  have  originated  in  the  A\'est  of  Asia  Minor,  and 
O.  Schrader  considers  it  highh-  probable  that  we  owe 
its  introduction  to  an   Indo-European  people. 

Among  the  wines  of  the  western  Riviera  those  of 
Massilia  were  known  even  in  ancient  times.  TheA'  were 
however  without  an^'  special  keeping  properties  and  had 
therefore  to  be  -'smoked'".  This,  according  to  Eastern 
and  Greek  custom,  took  jilace  in  tumigating  chambers 
The  process  was  in  realit\-  identical  with  the  present 
da\-  ''I'asteurisation".  As  toda\-  we  heat  the  wine  to  at 
least  ()0"  C  in  order  to  kill  the  germs  and  thus 
increase  its  keeping  properties,  so  the  ancients  subjected 
it    to    the    action    of    hot    air.       From    a    lower    chamber. 


20 WINES. 

where  a  fire  was  burning,  the  hot  air  ascended  through 
a  pipe  to  the  upper  chamber  in  which  the  wine  stood. 
The  flavour  of  the  wine  could  not  be  injured  in  the 
process  as  it  was  in  well  covered  vessels.  But  what 
would  be  the  flavour  of  that  wine  to  which  sea  water 
had  been  added,  while  vet  unfermented  1  This  was  a 
very  common  practice  among  the  ancient  inhabitants  of 
Asia  Minor  and  Greece.  Gypsum,  marble,  clay,  pitch 
and  resin  were  also  added  to  make  the  wine  keep 
longer  and  to  improve  its  flavour.  Yet  Pliny  said  that 
the  most  wholesome  wine  was  that  which  contained  no 
foreign  matter,  for  even  the  strongest  man  must  distrust 
such  admixtures  as  marble,  gypsum,  and  lime.  Plin^' 
complains  particularh'  of  the  wine-trade ;  it  had  reached 
such  a  pitch  that  the  price  of  wine  was  regulated  solelv 
according  to  the  repute  of  the  dealer,  and  that  the  un- 
fermented liquor  was  adulterated  even  in  the  wine-press. 
So  that,  strange  as  it  mav  seem,  the  least  renowned 
wines  were  often  the  most  harmless.  The  mixing  of  sea 
water  with  wine  is  recommended  bv  Plinv  as  very  whole- 
some. His  warning  to  those  who  do  not  wish  to  grow 
stout  reminds  one  of  a  new  and  well-known  cure,  which 
consists  in  drinking  little  or  nothing  at  meal  time.  Bv 
decoctions  and  infusions  of  herbs  the  ancients  also  tried 
to  increase  the  keeping  properties  of  wine,  just  as  we 
do  now-a-days  by  the  addition  of  alcohol.  Aromatic 
grasses  of  the  genus  Andropogon  were  esteemed  as  spices 
to  impart  a  flavour  to  the  clay  drinking  cups  known  by 
the  name  of  "'Rhodian  goblets''.  All  this  would  scarcelv 
appeal   to    our    modern    taste.     Yet    the    Romans   of   the 


\\1NI-:    IN    ROMAN    TIMES. 


21 


Anemone  /aioiii/i 

later    Empire     must    have 
been  remarkable    connoisseurs, 
tor  tlie  variet\"   of  wines  offered 
for  sale  then  was  almost  imlimited, 
V^irgil  likens  their  number  to  the  sands 
of  the  LAbian  Desert,  or  to  the  waves 
of  the  sea.     Whereas    it    was    formerh' 
the  custom  to    dilute  wine  with    water,    the 
Romans,  at  the  time  of  the  Emperors  nearly 
alwa\'s    drank  it  pure.     Thev  cooled  several  -^ 

kinds  with  ice,  as  we  do  now,  and  began  to  \^ 
value  old  vintages.  Good  wines  had  to  be  from 
eight  to  ten  years  old  to  be  esteemed  by  them, 
and  accounts  are  preserved  of  wines  as  much  as 
200A'earsold.  Thus  the  Emperor  Caligula  (37 — 41  A. D.) 
relished  a  wine  of  the  year  121  B.  C.  —  the  best 
Italian  vintage  on  record  in  those  davs.  Itah'  was 
the  land  which  in  PHn\'s  time  produced  the  most 
highly  valued  wines ;  so  that  he  might  well  assert 
that,  bA'  virtue  of  their  merit,  she  ranked  above  all  other 
countries,  and  was  onh-  excelled  bv  them  in  the  pro- 
duction of  perfumes;  nevertheless,  he  adds,  there  is  no 
fragrance    more    delightful    than    that    of    the     llowering 


22 THE    MXE. 

Vine.  Even  in  Roman  times  Vines  were  pruned  ac- 
cording to  recognised  rules,  though  the  method  of  train- 
ing the  plant  varied  with  the  district.  In  Campania 
thev  allowed  it  to  climb  up  the  Poplar  trees.  Winding 
among  the  branches,  in  its  luxuriant  growth,  it  embraced 
the  tree  lovingly  as  it  ascended  to  the  summit.  Not  un- 
frequently  did  the  vintager,  when  hired,  stipulate  with 
his  employer,  in  addition  to  his  pay,  for  a  funeral  pile 
and  a  monument  in  case  lie  should  meet  with  a  fatal 
accident  while  gathering  the  grapes.  A  single  V^ine 
would  often  completely  cover  a  whole  country  house 
with  its  clinging  stems;  and  in  Rome  one  could  stroll  in 
the  Colonnade  of  Livia  shaded  bv  a  mighty  Vine  which 
yielded  twelve  ampliorae  of  wine.  In  man^'  districts  of 
Italy  the  V^ines  were  trained  on  poles ;  in  others  they 
were  permitted  to  trail  along  the  ground.  A  similar 
diversity  is  seen  in  the  modern  Italian  methods  of  culti- 
vation. "Here",  says  Plin^',  "the  grape  hangs  with 
purple  bloom  among  the  green  leaves,  or  glows  rose-red, 
or  droops  in  softest  green.  In  one  place  the  berries 
are  round,  in  another  oval,  here  large,  there  small,  here 
hard  and  thick-skinned,  there  juicy  and  thin-skinned". 
Bunches  of  grapes  were  often  hung  on  strings  indoors 
that  they  might  keep  the  longer,  and  others  were  steeped 
in  sweet  wine  and  thus  soaked  in  their  own  juice. 

After  the  fall  of  Rome  the  cultivation  of  the  Mne 
declined  in  Italy.  The  grapes  were  gathered  in  a  slo- 
venly way,  carelessly  pressed,  and  the  must  was  allow- 
ed to  lie  too  long  on  the  lees,  so  that  the  wine  should 
assume    that     dark     colour,    which    was    then    preferred. 


BORDIGHERA.  23 


Wines  of  this  sort  would  not  keep  long  and  were  there- 
fore not  sought  after  abroad.  Hut  ^uite  latelv  this  state 
of  things  is  beginning  to  alter.  Wine -growing  is  in- 
creasing in  Ital\'  and  being  dealt  with  ver\'  succcssfull\-. 
The  old  custom  of  transporting  wine  in  skins  and 
then  storing  it  in  amphorae  lias  vanislied  from  Itah'. 
Wooden  casks,  which  were  used  bv  tlie  Cis-alpine  (jfauls 
and  tlie  Alpine  tribes,  were  introduced  into  South  Italy 
as  earlv  as  in  Roman  times. 

CHAPTER   III. 

Bordighera  ever  remains  pictured  in  the  mind  in  a 
setting  of  Palms  and  indeed  these  trees  thrive  nowhere 
better  on  the  whole  Riviera.  'rhe\'  lend  to  the  place 
a  touch  of  enchantment  and  spread  an  Eastern  glamour 
around.  On  the  East  side  of  the  Cap  d'Ampeglio  the\- 
form  actual  groves.  Within  the  walls  of  tliese  gardens 
rich  in  I'alm  trees,  and  on  patlis  over  which  the  slender 
stems  wave  their  crowns,  the  wanderer  feels  liimself 
transported  to  another  world  and  forgets  for  a  time  that 
between  the  Riviera  and  the  land  of  Oases  lies  the  vast 
expanse  of  tlie  Mediterranean  Sea.  Odvsseus  "when 
first  he  set  eves  on  the  Palm  at  Delos  b\'  tlie  altar  of 
Phoebus  Apollo,  stood  lost  in  enchantment,  for  sureh' 
nowhere  on  earth  is  there  a  tree  more  beautiful".  With 
reverence  do  German  travellers  visit  that  picturesque 
group  of  Palms  which  adorn  the  sea  shore  east  of 
Bordighera  at  the  Madonna  della  Ruota.  For  these  are 
the  trees  Scheffel  sang  of  in  his  poem  "Dem  Tode  nah" 
and    under    which    he    lono-ed   to   be  laid  to  rest.     There 


24  BORDIGHERA. 


are  about  20  of  them  (not  twelve  as  the  poet  says) 
grouped  round  an  old  well,  and  their  position  in  this 
wild,  solitary  spot  washed  bv  the  sea  waves  may  indeed 
inspire  the  wanderer  with  poetic  sentiments.  The  de- 
scription of  this  place  sketched  in  the  '"Motifs  artistiques 
de  Bordighera"  by  Charles  Garnier,  Architect  of  the 
Grand  Opera  at  Paris  and  of  the  Casino  at  Monte  Carlo, 
shows  that  not  only  German  genius  has  been  inspired 
here.  The  style  of  the  description  is  certainly  rather 
flowery  and  reminds  one  of  those  tiorid  decorations 
which  adorn  his  magnificent  buildings.  "This  is  the 
place  (he  writes)  which  you  should  visit,  \e  Artists; 
this  is  the  spot  which  you  must  see,  ye  Poets:  this  is 
the  nook  which  must  hold  you  spell-bound,  all  ye  who 
seek  for  living  and  vivid  impressions,  and  who  feel  that 
the  pulse  beats  higher  in  the  contemplation  of  Nature. 
Should  recollections  of  the  East  be  awakened  within 
you  when  you  wander  in  Old  Bordighera  and  its  sur- 
roundings, think  not  that  you  are  standing  there  before 
a  comparison,  nor  ^•et  before  a  resemblance.  No!  all 
Judaea  is  embodied  in  this  impression.  There  is  the 
well  of  the  woman  of  Samaria,  or  of  Rebecca;  those  are 
the  Jews,  the  Apostles;  Jerusalem,  Nazareth,  Bethlehem 
lie  before  \'ou  on  that  modest  promontory  of  Bordi- 
ghera". The  storm-lashed  Date  Palms  round  this  old 
well  with  the  never-to-be-forgotten  background  of  sea, 
have  supplied  innumerable  painters  with  subjects  for 
impressive  pictures. 

There  was  much  excitement  in  artistic  circles  when 
it    became    known    that    the    place    had    been  bought   by 


PALAIS    OF    BORDIGHERA. 


aid  out 
roundings. 


the  German  Landscape-gardener,  Ludwig  Winter,  and 
was  to  be  turned  into  a  garden.  Rut  it  was  hardly  to 
be  expected  that  this  piece  of  ground  should  remain 
long  unused  in  such  a  thickh'  populated  district.  It 
must  be  considered  especialh"  fortunate  that  this  lovely 
spot  should  have  fallen  unto  appreciative  hands.  I  lerr 
\\'inter  has  left  in  its  primitive  condition  that  little  pro- 
jection of  the  coast,  on  which 
Scheffel's  Palms  grow:  and  he  has 
the  garden  in  harmony  with  its  sur- 
Anemones,  Reseda,  Carnations  and 
luxurianth'  blossoming  Rose  bushes 
now  adorn  the  slope.  Tall  Palms 
rise  from  the  soil  which  was  for- 
merly bare;  and  round  a  large 
tank  a  Pergola  has  been  construc- 
ted, to  whose  pillars  the  Date  Palm 
lies  the  architectural  motive. 

In  the  Old  Testament  the  Date  Palms 
are  likened  to  the  proud  daughters  of 
kings.     But    the    Date  Palms    in  the 
gardens    of  Bordighera    are    not    all    as 
)eautiful  as  this.     The  fault  lies  in  the  treat- 
ment to  which  most  of  these  trees  are  subjected. 
Every  year  part  of  their  fronds  is  removed.    The 
Bresca  famih",  of  San  Remo,  received  from  Pope 
Sixtus  V,    in  the  sixteenth  centur\-,    the   privilege 
of    supplying  Rome    with   Palm -fronds  for  Palm 
^       Sunday.     This    was    nominalh-  as    a   reward  to 
Ane,„o»e  \    ieiiata.       Captain  Brcsca.   who,  while  the  obelisk 


26 PALMS   OF   BORDIGHERA. 

was  being  erected  on  the  Piazza  San  Pietro  in  1586,  and  the 
dry  rope  was  sagging,  helped  the  builder  Fontana  out  of 
his  dilemma  by  his  timely  shout  of  ''Water  on  the  rope". 
The  Bresca  family  grew  their  Palms  in  Bordighera 
because  they  thrive  better  in  the  sandy  cla}'  there,  than 
in  the  heavy  clay  of  San  Remo.  Thus  the  Palm  indus- 
try of  Bordighera  dates  back  to  the  Middle  Ages,  and 
even  today  it  is  this  place  that  supplies  most  of  the 
Palm-fronds  in  Rome  for  the  celebration  of  Easter 
Sunday.  The  Christian  Church  has  adopted  the  Palm- 
frond,  as  it  has  so  many  other  s}'mbols  of  Oriental 
imagery,  from  the  Pagans  and  the  Jews.  And  as  Palm- 
fronds  graced  the  Feast  of  Osiris  in  Egypt,  the'triumphal 
entries  of  kings  and  heroes  into  Jerusalem  and  the 
Olympic  Games  of  Greece,  so  today  they  are  used  to 
decorate  the  altars  of  Roman  Catholic  churches. 

Instead  of  spreading  their  crowns  freely  in  the  air, 
most  of  the  Palms  of  Bordighera  have  their  inner  fronds 
bound  up  together  like  the  tail  of  a  horse.  The  object 
is  to  produce  a  special  development  of  the  young 
growing  leaves.  Not  all  Palms  are  equally  adapted  to 
such  treatment,  and  a  distinction  is  made  between  those 
which  are  suitable  for  the  Roman  Catholic  Church  and 
those  which  are  adapted  to  the  Jewish  ritual.  For  the 
Jews  also  use  Palm-fronds  at  their  Feast  of  Tabernacles. 
The  natives  of  Bordighera  call  the  one  Palm  briefly 
"Cattohca"  and  the  other  "Ebrea".  The  leaves  of  the 
Roman  Catholic  Palm  are  slender,  and  those  of  the 
Jewish  Palm  short  and  compact.  Li  the  "CattoUca"  the 
heart  of  the  crown  is  bound  tig-hth'  tosfether  so  that  the 


MYKTIJC    AND    WILLOW    AS    -'PALMS".  27 

new  fronds  develop  in  complete  darkness  and  thus 
become  as  colourless  as  possible,  lor  on  I'ahn  vSunda\' 
the\'  are  to  be  not  onh'  s\'mbols  of  victor\-  but  also  of 
heavenlv  puritw  In  the  darkness  these  fronds  i^row 
long  and  slender:  the\'  run  to  a  point  and  remain  tender 
and  supple,  so  that  the\'  can  easih'  be  plaited  into 
any  desired  shape.  In  the  Jewish  Palms  the  older  fronds 
are  bound  toi^ether,  but  less  tighth',  so  that  the  light  is 
not  completeh-  excluded  from  the  \-ounger  ones  and  the\- 
can  become  green :  but  the\-  remain  shorter,  stiffer  and 
less  pointed.  At  the  Feast  of  Tabernacles  the  Jews 
combine  Myrtle  and  Willow  with  the  Palm-fronds  and, 
while  waving  these  bunches  in  their  right  hand,  hold 
"Paradise  Apples"  in  their  left.  This  \vas  original h  the 
harvest  festival  of  the  Jews:  but  during  their  exile  in 
foreign  lands  it  lost  this  meaning,  retaining  only  the 
other,  also  handed  down  from  antiquit\',  namely  commem- 
oration of  the  Divine  protection  during  the  wanderings 
in  the  Desert.  The  most  varied  symbolical  meanings 
have  been  attached  to  the  ceremonial  use  of  these  four 
plants:  they  may  perhaps  have  been  representative  of 
the  vegetation  of  Palestine,  but  later  on  the\'  fell  under 
the  intiuence  of  rigid  ecclesiastical  law,  which  prescribed 
that  the  Myrtle  and  Willow,  as  also  the  Palm,  should 
be  of  a  certain  detinite  shape.  Myrtles  are  specialh' 
grown  for  the  orthodox  Jew.  The  twig  must  be  about 
three  hand-breadths  high  and  bear  its  leaves  in  whorls 
of  three.  Should  the  whorls  be  lax,  and  the  leaves  not 
attached  at  the  same  level,  the  twig  is  rejected.  It 
would  be  better  to  use  sprays  on   which  the  leaves  were 


28  THE   DATE   PALM.  

in  twos  and  strictly  opposite.  This  kind  is  permissible 
in  case  of  need,  but  is  less  highh'  prized  than  the  real 
"Hadassah". 

The  Roman  Catholic  Church  has  shown  itself  much 
more  indulgent  with  reference  to  the  Palms  required  on 
Palm  Sunday.  In  northern  lands  the  Box  and  even  the 
catkin-bearing  Willow  have  replaced  the  Palm.  On  the 
Moselle  the  Box  is  actually  called  "Palm" :  this  designa- 
tion recurs  for  the  same  reason  in  the  Caucasus.  The 
ceremonial  sprays  of  Willow  are  also  called  "Palm"  in 
Sclavonic  countries.  In  Pliny's  day,  at  the  commence- 
ment of  our  era,  the  Date  Palm  was  not  unconnnon  in 
Italy.  It  must  however  have  disappeared  again  during 
the  barbaric  centuries  of  the  earlier  Middle  Ages,  for  the 
painters  of  the  end  of  the  twelfth  century  seem  to  have 
had  no  actual  acquaintance  with  it.  Otherwise  Giotto 
would  not  have  represented  the  Palm  trees  in  his  "Christ's 
entry  into  Jerusalem"  as  bearing  their  leaves  singly  all 
up  the  trunk. 

The  fruits  of  the  Date  Palm  are  as  a  rule  hard  and 
uneatable  on  the  Riviera.  They  require  the  scorching  breath 
of  the  Desert  to  become  soft  and  sweet.  According  to 
George  Schweinfurt  the  sweetest  and  most  tender  dates 
ripen  in  a  district  that  enjoys  a  mean  temperature  of  at 
least  20 — 22  C,  and  in  which  there  is  a  minimum  rainfall. 
The  Date  Palm  finds  these  conditions  in  the  Oases  of 
Algeria  and  Tunis,  where  it  has  from  time  immemorial 
been  properly  managed.  It  is  there  propagated  onl}' 
hv  offsets,  for  in  this  manner  the  purity  of  the  stock  is 
assured  and  the  carpellary  plants  are  obtained  with  cer- 


ITS   POLLINATION. 


29 


taint\'.  I'ieces  of  the  staniinatc  inflorescence  are  fastened 
in  amoni»-  tlie  carpellarv  llowers  to  ensure  pollination.  One 
staminate  usually  suffices  for  25  carpellarv  plants.  Each 
of  these  latter  produces  on  an  average  twelve  bunches 
of  fruit,  and  nvdv  \ield  as  much  as  fifteen  kilos  of  dates. 
The  Arab  prefers  a  harder  and  less  sugarv  kind  of  date 
as  food,  for  in  the  long  run  he  tires  of  the  sweet,  soft  date. 

Each  pistillate  flower  of  the  Date  Palm  contains 
three  carpels,  and  later  on  all  these  begin  to  develop. 
This  happens  even  when  pollination  fails.  Thus  a  fruit 
with  three  blind  carpels  results  in  case  oi  iL'  S^ 
non-pollination.  These  never  come  to  ma-  ^  ^^^-^^ 
turit\-,  and  never  acquire  the  proper 
flavour,  and  are  almost  worthless. 
Of  the  three  young  dates  which 
begin  to  develop  in  a  pollinated 
flower,  two  usually  fall  off  at  an 
earh"  stage,  and  only  the 
one  favoured  one  conti 
nues  to  develop.  Thus 
then  arises  the  per- 
fect date. 

Ripe     dates     have 
been  obtained  lately,  in 
May,  even  in  Nice:  but 
they  are  of  a  particu- 
lar species.     The 
tree   which    bears 


ttM 


them    grew    up    in     the  garden 
of  Henri  de  Cessoles'  villa.     It 


Aiitliyllis  Barba  yovis. 


30 PALMS. 

has  been  taken  for  a  hybrid  of  Phoenix  ca7iarie7isis  with 
Phoenix  dactylifera,  an  unproved  hypothesis.  The  fruits 
are  black,  and  as  Dr.  Fritz  Mader  tells  me,  taste  like 
plum  jam.  About  50  kilos  of  fruit  ripen  yearly  on  this 
one  tree,  and  as  these  become  pure  black  the  name  of 
Phoenix  melanocarpa  has  been  proposed  for  it. 

In  the  \vinter  of  1890 — 1  the  cultivated  Palms  of 
the  Riviera  had  to  stand  a  severe  test  as  the  thermometer 
sank  for  several  hours  to  six  degrees  below  zero.  Be- 
sides the  common  and  the  Canar\'  Palm  (Phoenix  cana- 
riensis),  the  Californian  Prilchardia  filifcra,  the  Austra- 
lian Livistoua  ansfralis,  and  the  Chinese  Chamaerops  ex- 
celsa  showed  most  resistance  to  the  cold.  It  is  not  sur- 
prising that  the  Dwarf  Palm  (Chamaerops  hiunilis)  should 
flourish  at  Bordighera,  since  it  belongs  to  the  Aledite- 
ranean  flora:  it  is  our  onh'  European  Palm,  being  indige- 
nous in  Sicih-  and  southern  Itah'.  Chamaerops  used 
formerly  to  be  found  wild  in  isolated  spots  between  Nice 
and  Mentone,  but  has  now  disappeared  from  them.  In 
Algeria  this  Palm  covers  large  tracts  of  land.  An  attempt 
was  made  to  eradicate  it  there  so  as  to  cultivate  the 
ground.  Now  however  it  is  being  carefully  propagated. 
From  a  troublesome  weed  it  has  come  to  be  regarded  as 
an  important  economic  plant.  For  after  suitable  treat- 
ment the  leaves  of  the  Dwarf  Palm  yield  very  elastic 
fibres  which  are  used,  like  horse-hair,  for  upholstering 
furniture  and  for  mattresses.  In  point  of  cheapness  they 
have  the  advantage  over  horse-hair,  and  moreover  are 
not  attacked  by  moths.  Whereas  Palms  of  the  genus 
Phoenix  have  pinnate  fronds,    those    of  the  Pritchardias, 


I'ALMS.  31 

Coriplieae  and  Cliamaerops  are  palmate.  As  their 
aspect  differs  niaterialh'  from  that  ot  the  Date  Palm  their 
introduction  is  a  distinct  gain  to  the  landscape  of  the 
Riviera.  ( liaiuarrops  exccha  has  alread\'  attained  a  con- 
siderable heii»-ht  in  man\'  L^ardens.  It  is  one  of  the  har- 
diest of  the  introduced  s]")ecies,  so  much  so  that  it  stands 
the  winter  in  the  Isle  of  Wight  without  protection.  In 
fact  it  has  ]?roved  itself  to  be  hardier  than  our  European 
Dwarf  Palm.  Pritchardi'a  iilifera  is  a  great  favourite 
in  gardens  because  of  the  numerous  white  threads  which 
hang  out  from  the  edges  of  the  leaves.  One  of  the  com- 
monest Palms  on  the  Riviera  \s.  I''/ioeii/'x  caiiariciis/'s,  which 
is  ver\'  like  the  Date  Palm,  but  differs  from  it  in  its 
sturdier  and  more  luxuriant  groMtb.  In  sheltered  places 
on  the  Riviera  several  species  of  the  genus  Cocos  suc- 
ceed, for  instance  C  ^exiiosa  and  Koniauzoffatia,  both 
exceedingly  elegant,  and  also  the  pretty  glaucous  Cocos 
australis  whose  ^•ellow  or  red  fruits  ripen  here.  These 
are  almost  as  large  as  an  eg^g  and  are  much  esteemed 
in  Nice,  Cannes  and  San  Remo  because  their  juicy  cov- 
ering smells  of  Pine  Apple.  The  true  Coconut  Palm. 
Cocos  fiucj'fcra,  cannot  survive  either  here  or  on  tlie 
southern  shores  of  the  Mediterranean.  Its  cultivation  is 
confined  to  the  tropics.  The  leaves  of  the  Coconut  Palm 
resemble  those  of  the  Phoenix.  Areca  Palms  also  have 
similar  foliage.  A.  sapida  and  Baucri  thrive  on  the 
Riviera:  the^•  are  closeh"  related  to  Arcca  Catechu, 
which  produces  tlie  Betel  nut,  —  those  nuts  which,  sprink- 
led with  powdered  lime  and  wrapped  in  Betel  pepper 
leaves  (Piper  Betle),  are   chewed  b^-  young  and    old    in 


32  PALMS. 

southern  Asia.  Broad  leaved  Livistonas  are  among  the  fan 
Pahiis  which  adorn  the  gardens  of  the  Riviera.    L.  chin- 
eiisis    and    anstralis    are    often    seen    in    our    hot-houses. 
Other  palmate-leaved  Palms   grown  on    the   Riviera    are, 
the  handsome,  glaucous  Brahca  Roczli:  the  stateh-  Sahals, 
whose  tenaceous  fibres  are  used  for  making  ropes,  hats, 
baskets  and  sacks ;    and  the  important  Carnauba  ( Coper- 
nicia  cerifera)    of  Brazil.     In    the    Brazilian    province   of 
Ceara  most  of  the  huts  are  thatched  with  the    leaves  of 
this  latter,    and    its  fibres  are  used  as  straw.     The  hard 
stem    of   this  Palm    supplies   wood  for  building  and  car- 
pentry, its  roots  yield  a  medicine,  its  bitter  fruits  a  nour- 
ishing food,    and    from  its  sap  s^■rup   and  Arrak  are  pre- 
pared.    In    short    this    Palm    is    a    good    instance    of  the 
manifold  uses  to  which  a  single  species  of  this  invaluable 
family    can    be    put    in    the    tropics.      It  owes  its  specific 
name  of  "cerifera",   as  also  that  of  "Wax  Palm",    to  its 
most    important    product  ^  vegetable    wax  —  which    is 
secreted  in  the  form  of  scales  on  its  leaves.    These  scales 
are    beaten    off    the  voung,   dried  leaves  and  then  boiled 
in    water,    when   the   liquid    wax    collects    on   the   surface. 
It  is  then  mixed  with  tallow  and  made  into  candles  which 
burn  with  a  pleasant  perfume. 

Bordighera  is  not  satisfied  with  exporting  its  Palm- 
fronds  for  ceremonial  use.  An  attempt  has  been  made 
to  turn  some  of  the  handsome  exotics  to  account  in  the 
manufacture  of  artistic  objects.  Thus  an  industr\'  has 
arisen  which  centres  in  Herr  Winter's  nurserv  garden. 
The  Date  Palm,  Chamaerops,  Livistona  australis.  and 
Pritchardia    filifera    furnish  the  materials  for  this  work. 


Blade,  stalk  and  sheath 
of    these     Palm     leaves     enter    into 
the    designs,     and    the    shell     of     the 
pilgrim's  gourd  serves  as  a   flower    vase. 
Different    parts   of   these  same    plants    also 
are    moulded    into    certain    shapes    and     ^^^ 
dried,  then  litted  together  to  form  stands 
for  bowls  and  various  other  vessels.  ()ther\^ 
ornaments    are    also    constructed.      Even 
the    nightingales    of    the    Riviera    have 
learnt  to  make  use  of  these  newh-  intro- 
duced trees.    The^'  have  discovered  that 
the  long  fibres  on  the  edges  of  the  leaves 
of  the  Pritchardia  are  admirably  adapted  for  \ 
nest-building.     The^'  pick  them  off  to  build 
their  temporar\-  homes. 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Next    to    Bordighera.    Mentone    ahva\'S  i 
fascinates    me    with    the    magical    charm    of   its 
valleys.     These    slope    steeply  inland    from    the 
sea  to  the  high  mountains,  and  offer  an  almo^'t 
infinite  variety  of  scenery,    and    ever  changing 
views    of  picturesque  hamlets  perched  on  pre- 
cipitous heights.     The  rugged  rocks,    towering 
to    the    sky,    form    the  background   and  give  a 
wild,    romantic    character   to    the  whole  scene. 
Thus  one  can  wander  in  the  valley  of  Fossan 
in  the  east,  in   the  valleys  of  Carei  and  Boirigo 
in    the    west,    and    the    more    distant    valley    of 


Antirrhiniiin 
latifolium. 


34  GORBIO.  

Gorbio,  and  visit  all  the  wild,  romantic  villages  — 
from  Castellar,  ^\■hose  houses  are  huddled  together  at 
the  top  of  a  steep  incline,  to  Roccabruna,  which,  with 
its  half  ruined  castle,  clings  to  the  dark  mountain  side. 
Good  carriage  roads  wind  through  the  valleys,  but  the 
walker  ^^•ill  prefer  the  paths  which  lead  him  to  his 
destination  in  the  shade  of  the  Olives  and  Pines.  A  pro- 
fusion of  flowers  surrounds  him  on  all  sides  and  though 
he  mav  resist  the  temptation  of  gathering  them  into  a 
bouquet,  he  will  pluck  some  of  the  innumerable  \'iolets 
from  the  bank.  He  who  does  not  shrink  from  the  exer- 
tion should  extend  this  walk  beyond  the  limits  of  the 
usual  excursions.  Not  until  ^'ou  reach  a  considerable 
height  does  the  full  splendour  of  the  landscape  unfold 
itself,  and  the  e\e  travel  unimpeded  over  land  and  sea. 
In  the  early  morning  hours  of  a  warm,  sunnv, 
spring  da\'  we  left  the  road  which  leads  from  Mentone 
to  Monaco  and  turned  into  the  fertile  Gorbio  valley, 
through  which  flows  a  stream  of  some  volume.  At  flrst 
handsome  villa- gardens  line  the  slowh'  ascending  road, 
then  come  modest  farm  holdings.  Fragrant  flowers  trail 
over  the  walls:  at  first  the  showy  flowers  of  the  rich, 
and  then  the  Wall- flowers,  Stocks,  Pelargoniums  and 
Anemones  which  even  the  poor  can  afford.  C}presses 
festooned  with  Roses  rise  here  and  there  high  into  the 
air.  Lemon  and  Orange  groves  follow  upon  each  other; 
then  Fig  trees.  Higher  up  our  northern  fruit  trees, 
Peach  and  Plum,  occur  here  and  there.  They  are  in  full 
bloom.  It  is  still  too  warm  here  for  Apples  and  Pears; 
the^-  do  not  thrive  until  we  reach  St.  Agnese,  beyond  the 


maii)i:n  hair  \'\:\<s.  35 

rocks  which  close  tlie  \alle\-  to  the  north.  It  is  worth 
while  to  collect  the  indi<j^enoii.s  j?huits  in  the  \'alle\'  of 
Gorbio.  Ardoino,  author  of  the  "hlore  des  Alpes  ]Mari- 
times",  mentions  more  than  a  thousand  wild  species  as 
occurriuir  in  the  \alle\  s  whicli  open  near  Mentone.  It 
would  be  necessar\'  to  search  the  whole  of  Ireland  or 
Sweden  to  obtain  as  man\'  plants  as  are  to  be  found 
here  in  an  area  of  15  s(.[uare  miles.  The  valleys  of 
Mentone  are  exceptionalh-  rich  in  Orchids,  and  these 
nearh'  all  flower  in  the  spring.  Man^-  Ferns,  rare  else- 
where, are  to  be  found  here.  Maiden  I  lair  Fern  {Adi- 
anhiiu  Capilliis  \\')icri$.  Fig.  p.  13)  is  alwa^•s  a  favourite 
with  non-botanical  people,  adorning  as  it  does  with  its 
graceful  and  delicate  fronds  the  damp  recesses  of  tlie 
rocks.  The  wedge-shaped  pinnules  of  this  fern  seem  to 
be  borne  on  shin^',  black  wire,  and  wave  and  tremble 
with  ever^•  breath  of  air.  Xot  inappropriateh'  did  the 
Romans  liken  this  prett^'  plant  to  the  hair  of  Venus. 
Formerh-  it  was  used  in  medicine,  and  even  now  an 
infusion  of  its  bitter-sweet  and  rather  astringent  leaves 
is  occasionalh'  emplo\ed  in  chest  complaints.  Prepared 
with  sugar,  the  fronds  of  the  Maiden  Hair  Fern  make 
the  "S^■rupus  Capillorum  Veneris",  which  is  said  to  be 
a  specific  for  chest  affections. 

An  old  paved  road  through  the  Olive  trees  forms  a 
short  cut  up  the  vallew  At  one  of  its  bends  Gorbio 
suddenh'  bursts  upon  the  view  close  at  hand.  It  crowns 
a  steep  hill  completeh'  clothed  in  Olive  trees.  An 
amphitheatre  ot"  might\'  rocks  encloses  the  view,  giving 
it    an    exceptionalh    picturescjue    appearance.      We    soon 

2 


36 VIEW  ABOVE    GORBIO. 

reach  the  spot,  cross  the  Place,  which  is  shaded  by  an 
old  Elm,  and  turning  to  the  left,  strike  into  the  path 
which  passes  hv  a  spring  and  follows  the  slope  of  the 
hill.  After  half  an  hour's  climb  we  reach  the  conspicu- 
ous cross  which  braves  the  weather  high  up  on  the 
projecting  shoulder  of  the  mountain.  When  the  Mistral 
blows  strongh'  it  is  bardK-  possible  to  linger  in  this  spot. 
The  shattered  cross,  which  now  stretches  only  one  arm 
heavenwards,  bears  witness  to  the  violence  of  the  storms 
that  rage  up  there.  The  view  from  the  cross  is  over- 
whelmingh-  grand.  It  embraces  all  the  valle^'S  which 
converge  near  Mentone.  On  the  heights  we  still  see 
those  wild  villages,  the  strongholds  of  the  Grimaldis  and 
the  Lascaris  who  once  ruled  over  the  valle\'s.  .\  semi- 
circle of  mountains  rises  forbiddingh-  in  the  background 
and  forms  an  impenetrable  barrier  to  the  e\e,  while  to 
the  south  the  blue  sea  stretches  awa^-  into  the  distance. 
To  enhance  this  impression  might  seem  impossible;  and 
^'et,  when  we  have  reluctanth'  quitted  this  scene,  the 
panorama  increases  in  sublime  grandeur  as  soon  as  we 
reach  the  ridge  which  runs  southward  towards  Rocca- 
bruna.  The  walls  of  rock  which  close  the  valleys  are 
seen  in  perspective  like  vast  decorations,  and  the  outlines 
of  the  picture  become  ever  richer  and  more  varied.  In 
the  middle  of  the  landscape,  on  the  northern  slope  of 
one  of  the  mightiest  of  these  giants,  vSt.  Agnese  stands 
out,  a  village  of  some  importance,  hanging  like  a  swal- 
low's nest  over  the  giddy  precipice.  Who  could  suspect 
the  existence  of  this  village?  It  is  completely  concealed 
from  the  sea  by  the  rocks  to  which  it  clings.   The  high 


ST.  AGNES  I :. 


37 


clilf  must  have  hidden  it  Iroin  the  searching  gaze  of  the 
Saracens  who  once  sailed  the  T^Trhenian  Sea.  And  yet 
legend  tells  us  that  in  the  tenth  century  Ilarun,  a  Sara- 
cen chief,  built  the  castle  whose  ruins  toda}'  crown  the 
summit  of  the  mountain.  I  le  came  here,  however,  not  as  an 
enemy,  but  vantjuished  by  the  love  of  a  Christian  woman 
whom  he  made  his  bride  after  his  own  conversion. 


Even  those  who  are  familiar  with  the  loveliest  parts 
of  southern  Italy  will  appreciate  to  the  full  extent  this 
noble  and  typically  Italian  landscape.  And  how  much 
more  beautiful  does  it  become  when  at  sunset  the  tops 
of  the  mountains  are  tinged  with  red,  casting  long,  dark 
shadows  in  the  valleys,  and  touching  St.  Agnese  on  her 
grey  rocks  with  its  tier}-  glow.  Hut  now  the  sun  has 
vanished  behind  the  Tete  de  Chien:  the  shades  of  niLdit 


38  MENTONE. 


are  falling  in  the  vallevs,  time  is  short  and  a  long 
stretch  of  stony  path  lies  between  us  and  the  railwa}" 
station  of  Cabbe-Roejuebrune.  Here  an  unexpected 
pleasure  awaits  us  as  a  suitable  ending  to  a  day  which 
has  been  such  a  feast  of  colour.  The  huge  Judas  trees 
( Cercis  Stliquastruni)  on  the  bank  are  in  full  blossom, 
and  droop  their  leafless  but  flower-laden  branches  down 
over  the  brown  wall.  The  prettv,  crowded  flowers  grow 
out  even  from  the  old  wood,  so  that  the  whole  tree 
looks  like  a  pink  garland.  This  tree  was  in  ancient  times 
a  favourite  in  the  gardens  of  Jerusalem,  and  this  may 
well  have  given  rise  to  the  saA'ing  that  Judas  had  hanged 
himself  on  one  of  them. 

CHAPTER  V. 

The  view  of  Mentone  from  Pont  St.  Louis  is  enchant- 
ingly  beautiful  (Fig.  p.  265).  It  is  one  of  the  most  impressive 
on  the  whole  Riviera  and  should  be  seen  when  Old  Mentone 
is  lighted  from  the  east  by  the  morning  sun.  The  main 
road  which  crosses  the  bridge  of  St.  Louis,  and  connects 
Mentone  with  Ventimiglia,  begins  to  rise  gradualh'  just 
after  Garavan,  between  villas  and  garden  walls.  When 
there  is  not  too  much  dust  the  walk  along  this  road  is 
very  enjoyable ;  for  the  gardens  which  border  on  it  abound 
in  luxuriant  vegetation.  With  a  profusion  which  defies 
restraint,  foliage  and  flowers  break  free  and  overhang 
the  walls.  Bright  red  and  flaming  Pelargoniums,  and 
a  Rose  bush  studded  with  innumerable  blossoms,  trail 
over  the  stone  work.  Further  on  a  wall  is  clothed  from 
top  to  bottom  with  an  Ivy- leaved  cranesbill  —  the  Pelar- 


KUAD   TO   THE    PONT   ST.  LOUIS. 39 

^■oni'/i!)!  pcliaiiDu  —  whose  leaves  are  almost  hidden 
beneath  the  pink  llowers.  Yonder  bush,  bending  in  a 
graceful  arch  over  another  wall,  with  its  spikes  of  ^•cllow 
llowers,  is  the  Chinese  Huddleia  f7>.  I^iiidlcxana).  For 
some  distance  tlie  road  is  jierfumed  with  Heliotrope, 
growing  over  a  railing  close  at  hand:  still  further,  bordering 
the  road,  is  a  Pergola  covered  \\ith  saffron-\ellow  Roses. 
Two  huge  \Mgandias,  with  large  leaves,  grow  out  from 
a  cleft  in  the  wall  at  \\\\^^i  Cople\',  and  almost  bar  the 
wa\'.  Below  them  the  ground  is  strewn  with  deep  violet 
corollas,  as  though  a  shower  of  llowers  had  fallen  there. 
Above  the  dark  foliage  of  the  Wigandias  gleams  that 
of  a  silver-gre\'  bush,  now  just  unfolding  its  bright 
yellow  Hower- heads.  This  plant  belongs  to  the  Pea- 
flower  tribe,  is  indigenous  here  and  loves  the  rockv  sea 
shore ;  it  must  feel  strangeh'  out  of  place  among  these 
ga\'  surroundings.  The  soft,  liowing  appearance  of  its 
silverv  foliage  has  won  for  it  the  name  of  Jove's  beard 
{Ant/iylh's  Barha  'joz'is  Fig.  p.  29).  Pressing  close 
upon  this  is  a  plant  from  Equador,  with  panicles  of 
large,  orange-coloured  flowers  —  the  Streptosoleii  yamcsoui 
of  the  Solaneae  —  which,  on  account  of  the  profusion 
of  its  blossoms  and  striking  hue,  finds  increasing  favour 
on  the  Riviera.  The  tubular  corolla  has  a  curious  spiral 
twist  at  its  base,  hence  the  whole  famih'  has  obtained 
the  name  of  "Drehrohre"  in  German\'.  Teucriiaii  fruticaiis 
has  long  been  grown  here,  often  as  a  hedge.  V>\  the 
shape  of  its  bright  blue  flowers  it  is  easilv  known  as  a 
Labiate  of  the  Germander  tribe,  although  unlike  our 
northern   species  of  Teucrium   it   can   attain    a    height    of 

2* 


40 GARDEN   PLANTS. 

two  yards.  The  leaves  of  this  North  African  shrub 
are  almost  snow-white  beneath,  contrasting  with  the  vege- 
tation and  enhancing  the  colour  effects  along  this  rich- 
hued  road.  The  ""Fig  Marigold"  (Meserubryaidheiiniin 
acinaciforme)  adorns  numerous  walls  with  its  heavA' 
festoons  of  thick,  fleshy  leaves  and  purple  flowers.  The 
South  African  Composite,  Arctotis  aspera,  a  rough,  hair\- 
undershrub,  bends  over  from  man^'  a  garden.  It  is  an 
unassuming  plant  and  a  great  favourite  here  now :  it 
bears  dull-gre\'  leaves,  pinnatitid  and  crimped,  and  bright 
brownish-yellow  flower-heads  which  in  their  dull  sheen 
remind  one  of  some  of  the  Everlastings.  The  road  takes 
a  sudden  turning  and  we  pass  a  steep  place  completeh' 
overgrown  with  Bougainvillea,  whose  mauve  flower  bracts 
are  so  brighth'  coloured  that  in  the  sunshine  the  eye  is 
almost  dazzled  bA'  them.  In  delicate  contrast  with  this 
is  the  beautiful  white  I^osa  Siiiica.  Its  blossoms  are 
single  with  tufts  of  golden  stamens.  The  splendid  Big- 
nonia,  Tccoiua  capcnsis,  whose  large,  carmine  flowers 
show  to  such  good  effect  in  spite  of  the  prolusion  of 
colours  around,  may  rival  the  Bougainvilleas  in  brilliance. 
The  name  of  "Trumpet  flower"  has  been  given  to  this 
genus  on  account  of  the  slighth'  curved,  tubular  corolla 
widening  at  the  mouth.  Then  we  pass  Orange  and 
Lemon  trees,  still  laden  with  fruit  and  alread^'  opening 
their  fragrant  blossoms.  Amid  this  profusion  of  flowers 
we  reach  the  little  French  Douane  hut,  and  a  few  steps 
further  bring  us  to  our  destination.  The  Pont  St.  Louis 
bridges  with  its  bold  arch  the  Ravine  which  divides 
Italy  from  France.     The  view  over  Mentone   from    here 


\'IEW  FROM    nib:   PONT   ST.  LOUIS. 


41 


is  indeed  of  unsurpiissed  beaiit\'  (Fig-,  p.  2()5).  The  old  town 
rests  upon  a  small  projection  of  land  between  two  deep 
blue  ba^•s.  The  closeh'  packed  houses  rise  on  it  one 
above  another.  All  are  built  in  the  Italian  st\le,  with 
I^oggias,  balconies  and  terraces,  but  varying  in  size  and 
colour,  and  united  without  apparent  s\stem  into  a  single 
confused  mass.  Hut  all  details  are  lost  in  the  bright 
sunshine,  wlien  the  whole  town  stands  out  almost  white 
in  the  distance.  The  church,  with  its  slender  belfry,  rises 
from  the  mass  of  houses.  And  in  what  grand  surroundings  is 
this  picture  set !  On  the  western  horizon  the  rugged 
ciiain  of  the  Esterel  is  fainth'  outlined.  On  this  side  of 
them  the  coast  falls  back  and  the  bold  Tete  de  Chien 
above  Monaco  forms    the    next    headland.      This    might\' 

seems  to  mount  guard  over 
the    long   stretch    of  coast. 
Cap  Martin    lies    like   a 
^reen  velvet  ribbon  upon  the 
blue  sea,  and  behind  Mentone 
ise  jagged  giants,  blue-gre\' 
in    the    brilliant    sunlight. 
White  villages  gleam  among 
the  foliage    on    the    slopes, 
uid  in  the  valle^■s  below  the 
,er-gre\'  of  the   Olives   har- 
monises with  the  dark  shades  of 
the  Lemons.    Rich  as  the  colour- 
ing   of    a    kaleidoscope    are    the 
sides  of  the  ravine  at  our  teet.  We 
)ok  down  uj^on  a  garden  which 


42  VIEW  FROM  THE   PONT  ST.  LOUIS. 

rises  in  terraces  smothered  with  tiowers.  Pink  and  red 
Pelargoniums  crowded  together:  rounded  bushes  of 
"Marguerites"  (Chrysanthemum  frutescens)  studded  with 
thousands  of  white  starhke  flowers:  fiery  Streptosolen :  a 
Judas  tree  in  blossom  bending  its  pink  branches  over  the 
white  "Marguerites'' :  a  bright  yellow  rose  entwined  about 
the  Judas  tree :  feather^'  tufts  of  slender  Bamboo :  Fan 
Palms:  dark  Cypress  spires:  succulent  Agaves:  a  "Pepper 
tree"  with  light-green,  finely  pinnate  leaves  and  "weeping" 
branches :  dazzling  red  Bougainvilleas  on  the  terrace 
walls  —  truly  a  party-coloured  mosaic  !  Tall  Date-palms 
rise  from  the  ravine,  framing  the  view  of  Mentone,  while 
fantastic  Opuntias  near  the  bridge  form  the  foreground: 
and  this  whole  richly  coloured  picture  is  girt  by  the 
deep  blue  waters  of  the  sea.  A  fresh  breeze  blows  from 
the  sea,  and  flower^•  Spring  smiles  on  us  from  the  gorge 
below.  This  sublime  scene  inspires  us  with  feelings  of 
harmon^'  and  joy,  and  we  would  willingly  forget  that  yonder, 
above  Mentone,  where  white  stones  and  dark  C^'presses 
rise  within  gre\  walls,  is  a  place  of  mourning.  Formerh- 
a  castle  of  the  Grimaldis  stood  on  this  hill,  then,  be- 
tween the  ruins  and  the  encircling  wall,  a  cemetery  was 
formed.  This  now  overlooks  the  sunn^'  coast  as  once 
the  might\'  stronghold  dominated  it,  and  is  a  landmark 
to  the  Mentone  of  toda\-.  In  vain  I  seek  to  withdraw 
my  thoughts  from  this  place,  but  incessantly  Xh.Q\  return 
to  it.  Never  before  has  a  cemetery  seemed  sadder  to 
me  than  yonder  one  with  its  graves  covered  with  flowers, 
nor  has  the  deep  contradiction  between  the  sunny 
joyousness  of  Nature  and  the  suddenness    of  death  ever 


riiic  k.wim:.  43 

struck  me  so  forcibh'.  Tlie  lieart  ot  ever^•  one  wlio 
tarries  there  is  oppressed  hv  this  contrast.  From  all 
<.|uarters  of  the  earth  were  gathered  toj^ether  those  who 
now  rep(xse  in  this  "(iod's  acre".  In  the  tlower  of  their 
^  outh,  far  from  their  home,  the\-  were  laid  to  rest  under 
Jasmine  and  Rose.  Does  the  soil  lie  lighter  on  them 
because  llowers  never  fade  upon  their  graves  ?  Roses, 
white,  \ellow  and  red,  grow  there  in  special  profusion, 
and  spread  an  intoxicating  perfume  around.  When  I 
visited  this  cemeter^'  on  a  former  occasion  the  world 
was  radiant  with  the  glorA'  of  spring  and  the  air  teemed 
\\"ith  io\ous  life.  Vet  it  was  sad  among  these  tiower- 
decked  graves.  B\-  a  newh'  erected  monument  sat  a 
\'0ung  sculptor  carving  the  face  of  a  tender  maid  on  the 
stone:  he  was  singing  a  merr\-  song.  I  remained  long 
standing  before  that  grave :  it  was  like  a  Shakespearean 
tragedy  I 

High  above  the  Pont  St.  Louis  jagged  mountains, 
wild  and  romantic,  rise  abrupth'.  In  the  middle  of  the 
ravine  a  solitar^•  pinnacle  stands  forth,  and  there  are 
numerous  caves  in  the  wall  of  rock.  Rosemar\'  in 
full  tlower.  the  shrubb^'  '"Busli  Spurge"  (Euphorbia 
dcudroidcs),  Juniper,  and  large-llowered,  silver^■-gre^' 
Mallows  (Lavalrra  nnin'/ima ),  cling  to  each  projection 
of  the  rock  and  relieve  the  monotony-  of  its  surface.  Below 
all  is  green  with  luxuriant  vegetation.  .\  clear  stream 
gushes  through  the  rock\'  cleft,  forming  prett^'  waterfalls. 
Part  ot  the  water  is  drawn  off  into  a  small  aqueduct 
which  winds  about  picturescjueh'  and  linalh-  crosses  the 
stream    on    an    arched  bridije.     Ever\'thin<»'    is    as    effect- 


44  LA  MORTOLA. 


ively    united    in    this    narrow  space  as  in  the  scene  of  a 
theatre ! 

This  ravine  is  one  of  the  warmest  spots  on  this 
particularly  sheltered  part  of  the  Riviera.  Surrounded 
and  protected  b^'  high  mountains,  it  lies  open  to  none 
but  the  south  wind.  Violets  bloom  as  early  as  December 
in  the  gull}',  and  swallows  never  leave  it.  Lizards  delay 
their  winter  sleep,  and  food  is  always  plentiful,  for 
insects  buzz  through  the  air,  and  the  spider  spreads  her 
web  to  catch  these  even  in  winter. 

CHAPTER  VI. 

No  visitor  to  Bordighera  or  Mentone  should  omit 
to  make  an  excursion  to  La  Mortola,  the  garden  of  Sir 
Thomas  Hanbur}-,  The  public  are  admitted  on  Mondays 
and  Fridays  on  payment  of  one  franc.  This  money 
helps  to  support  the  Hospital  of  V^entimiglia.  Those 
wishing  to  study  in  the  garden  will  receive  permission 
from  the  owner  to  visit  it  at  any  time.  The  beautiful 
Palazzo  still  standing  in  the  grounds  takes  its  name  from 
the  former  owners,  the  Orengo  family  of  Ventimiglia. 
When  Sir  Thomas  Hanbury  acquired  this  estate  in  1866 
there  was  a  scanty  Olive  grove  on  it.  With  the  aid  of 
experienced  and  skilful  gardeners  he  has  converted  it 
into  the  fairy- like  spot  which  now  charms  the  visitor. 
The  late  Mr.  Daniel  Hanbury,  F.  R.  S.,  F.  L.  S.,  etc., 
brother  of  the  owner,  assisted  with  his  scientific 
knowledge  in  laying  the  foundation  of  this  vast  collection 
of  plants.  The  garden  covers  an  area  of  about  40  hectares. 
It  slopes  up  steeply  from  the  sea  to  a  height  of  300  feet. 


LA   MORTOLA. 


45 


AsJiarag'HS 
ncutifoliiis. 


bears  a  label  on 


country  and  Natural 


where     the     road    passes 
'-, .       through  the  village  of 
.  T^^;?^'^)^^;    La    Mortola.       The 
■  deep    hollow    in    the 

Xuninuilitic    lime-stone   in    which 
part    of    the    garden    is    situated, 
'^.  affords  protection  against  winds  and 
.,i^    permits   of  the  development  of 
such  luxuriant  vegetation  as  can 
'    scarcely     be     equalled     on    the 
Riviera.     It  is  indeed  only  b\'  irri- 
gating the  whole  estate  that  the  sum- 
jij^yj^  ''"^    mer  drought  is  prevented  from  being 
fatal    to    the    plants.      For    at    Mortola 
they  reckon  on  over  200  cloudless  days 
in    the    year;    and    even  during    the  six 
i^    winter     months     there     are     only     about 
40  rain\'   •..  da^-s. 

•   '^'        It  would  be  a  rash  endeav- 
our to   attempt  to   describe 
the  innumerable  plants  which 
nave    been   brought    together 
in    the  gardens  of  La  Mortola, 
I  can   do  no  more  than  mention 
its  rich  profusion  and  splendour,  and 
draw    attention    to    the  valuable    infor- 
mation which  ever^'  visitor  can  there 
glean    for    himself.     For    each   plant 
which  is  inscribed  its  name,  native 


Order. 


A   catalogue    of  the 


46  LA  MORTOLA. 


garden,  published  in  1889,  enumerated  about  3600  different 
plants.  Since  then  their  number  has  been  much  augmented 
by  the  addition  of  new  species  of  scientific  interest  or 
technical  importance.  All  Botanical  Institutions  duly  receive 
the  catalogue  with  permission  to  draw  upon  the  treasures 
of  the  garden  for  scientific  purposes.  Sir  Thomas  Hanbury 
is  careful  to  entrust  the  manag"ement  of  his  o-arden  to 
competent  hands.  Hitherto  this  duty  has  fallen  to  the 
lot  of  -industrious  and  scientifically  trained  gardeners. 
Mortola  is  almost  unique  among  private  gardens  and 
should  arouse  the  emulation  of  other  wealthy  landowners. 
The  garden  of  La  Mortola  is  at  its  best  in  spring. 
The  Acacias  particularly  contribute  to  its  splendour  at 
that  season.  More  than  sixty  species  of  them  are 
grown  there,  including  the  Mimosa-like  kinds  whose 
iineh'  pinnate  leaflets  are  set  in  motion  by  every  breath 
of  wind,  and  those  stiff,  thorny  species  which  fully 
justif\'  their  botanical  names  of  "armed"  (armata),  "bristly" 
and  "terrible"  (horrida).  Many  of  the  Acacias  are  so 
smothered  in  yellow  flowers  that  their  green  foliage  is 
hardly  visible,  and  most  of  them  emit  a  pleasant  aroma 
when  in  bloom.  Names  like  '"pleasant",  "agreeable" 
(suaveolens)  indicate  certain  species  which  are  more 
perfumed  than  the  rest.  But  the  most  fragrant  of  all 
these  is  undoubtedly  the  tropical  American  Acacia 
Farncsiaua  (Fig.  p.  5),  which  bears  its  violet-scented 
flower-heads  in  winter.  These  little  flower-heads,  under 
the  name  of  "Fleurs  de  Cassie",  are  largeh'  used  in 
Grasse  and  Cannes  in  the  manufacture  of  scent.  This 
plant,  which  has  long  been  known  in  the  south  of  Europe, 


ACACIAS  47 

received  the  name  "Farnesiana"  because  it  was  first 
cultivated  in  the  Farnese  gardens  at  Rome.  Acacia,  or 
Albizzia  'yulihrissiii.  is  a  stateh'  Mimosa-like  tree  with 
twice  pinnate  leaves,  but  its  briglit  violet  llower-heads 
do  not  open  till  ]u\\.  Its  delicate,  gracetul,  glaucous 
foliage  renders  it  conspicuous  at  La  Mortola  as  elsewhere 
on  the  Riviera.  This  tree  is  a  native  of  the  southern 
shore  of  tlie  Caspian  Sea.  Its  specific  name  is  Persian 
and  means  *'silk.  llower".  The  stitV,  South  African 
Acac/d  Jiorrida  \ields  an  inferior  gum  knou'n  as  "Cape 
gum".  The  finest  (nim  Arabic  exudes,  like  the  gum 
from  our  CherrA'  trees,  from  the  bark  of  Acacia  Sciico-al, 
a  native  of  Senegambia  and  Kordofan. 

A  A'ellow  flowered  bush,  Ptcronia  incana,  from  the 
Cape,  is  remarkable  at  La  Mortola  for  its  exceptionally 
agreeable  perfume.  It  belongs  to  tlie  same  division  of 
the  Composites  as  do  our  Asters,  and  its  flowers  emit 
what  I  feel  tempted  to  call  etherialised  odour  of  Apricots  I 
Another  bush  from  the  Cape  is  JJiosma  fragrans,  of  the 
Rutaceae :  the  whole  plant  is  sweetlv  scented.  Xot 
inappropriateh'  has  this  genus  been  called  Diosma, 
"Perfume  of  the  Gods''.  Several  species  are  much 
grown  in  greenhouses  at  home,  and  their  foliage  used 
for  making  up  boue{uets.  A  Chilian  shrub  of  the 
Fiacourtiaceae,  Azara  micropJixUa .  with  small  yellow 
flowers  is  called  "Aromo"  in  its  native  country  on 
account  of  its  \'anilla-like  fragrance.  A  herbaceous 
Salvia  (S.  alhocoerulca)  has  a  faint,  fruit\'  odour.  \'arious 
Pelargoniums,  for  instance  P.  roscuin.  and  odoraiissiniiiDi, 
diffuse  a  strong  rose-like  perfume    when  their  leaves  are 


48  GENISTA.  —  CASUARIXA. 


bruised.  In  man^'  places  in  the  garden  the  scent  of  the 
small,  white  blossoms  of  Pitiosporwn  Tohira  is  almost 
overpowering.  These  flowers  are  borne  in  large  numbers 
on  an  evergreen  tree-like  shrub  which  is  not  unlike  the 
Laurustinus  (  J  ihnniiiin  Timis).  There  is  also  a  species 
with  almost  black  flowers,  which  have  a  ver\'  curious 
effect.  Sweeth'  scented  like  our  Chickling  \^etch  (Lath- 
yriis  sativa)  is  a  dainty  tree  with  '"weeping"  boughs, 
which  owing  to  the  profusion  of  its  tlowers  looks  quite 
white  at  a  little  distance.  It  is  a  west  Mediterranean 
species  of  Broom,  Genista  moiiospcnua,  one  of  the  most 
graceful  plants  of  the  Riviera,  and  ought  to  be  called 
a  "shower  of  blossoms".  Passino-  suddenh'  from  this 
plant  it  seems  difficult  to  believe  that  Genista  Acantho- 
clada,  a  bush  from  the  Grecian  hills,  can  belong  to  the 
same  genus.  This  plant  is  so  thorn \-  that  it  was  trans- 
ferred to  Tartarus  as  an  emblem  of  terror.  Aspalathus, 
called  after  the  island  of  Aspalathe  on  the  coast  of 
L}xia,  is  said  by  legend  to  have  furnished  the  rods  with 
which  the  ungodh'  were  chastised  in  Hades. 

Visitors  to  the  gardens  cannot  fail  to  notice  the  large 
Casuarina  trees  which  shade  the  entrance  steps.  The 
name  of  this  famih^  was  suggested  hy  the  thread-like, 
gre}-green,  pendant  twigs  which  hang  down  like  the 
feathers  of  a  cassowar\'s  tail.  As  the  tw^igs  are  leafless 
the  work  of  feeding  the  tree  devolves  upon  them:  this  is 
why  they  are  green,  that  is  to  say  contain  the  green 
colouring  matter  —  chloroph^'ll  —  whose  presence  is 
essential  for  the  elaboration  of  the  sap  throughout  the  tree. 
In  Australia  Casuarinas  form  vast,  characteristic    forests. 


EUCALYPTI. 


49 


foliage  is 
sunlisfht. 
breeze,  a 
the  Euca- 
to  effect  in 
are  among 
.Vustralia 


fflV'"     L,iK.e     so     man\-     otlier    Australian 

[f      trees    thev    cast    but    little    shadow 

y^^"  on  the  ground.   The  llowers 

(y/|g^^^^    are  so  small  and  inconspicu- 

""      "    "         ,    ous  that  onh'  the  expert  eye 

*   could    lind    them.      The 

wood    of   the   Casuarina   is 

remarkable  for  its   great  hardness    and 

weight,    and    was    for    this    reason  used 

by    the     aborigines    for    making     their 

war-clubs.    —   Another  Australian 

2    genus   which   has   been 

spread  with  great  rapi- 

dit^'  all  over  the  Riviera 

in    the    last  decades,    is  that 

of  the  Eucalyptus.  The  Mortola 

garden  has  man\'  different 

species.    The  most  commonly 

met    with    on    the   ^Mediterranean  is 

^.  glohidus.      Eucah'pti    also    afford 

little    shade :    their    leaves    are    indeed 

fairly  large,  but  thev  hang  perpendicularly 

on    long    stalks    so    that   even    when    the 

dense  it  cannot  completeh'  shut  out    the 

And  as  the  trees  are  stirred  by  the  lightest 

peculiar,  tremulous  twilight  reigns  under 

hptus :    this    however    can    onh'  be  seen 

forests    of   these    trees.      The    Eucahpti 

the  giants   of   the  Vegetable   \\'orld.      In 

trees  of  E.  amigdalina  have  been  found 


'  5'd  ■  EUCALYPTI. 


measuring  514  feet  in  height.  This  corresponds  to 
that  of  the  towers  of  Cologne  Cathedral;  the  Pyramid 
of  Cheops,  however,  and  the  dome  of  St.  Peters  in 
Rome  fall  short  of  it  bv  five,  and  twenty  vards 
respectivel}'.  Eucah'ptus  trees  grow  exceedingly  fast 
even  on  the  Riviera,  and  soon  tower  above  their  sur- 
roundings although  they  were  introduced  not  more  than 
forty  years  ago.  At  La  Mortola  a  Ezicalyptus  globulus 
attained  a  height  of  60  feet  and  nearly  five  feet  girth 
in  seven  years.  No  other  trees  in  Europe  have  been 
known  to  grow  so'rapidh'.  In  spite  of  this  rapid  growth 
the  wood  is  very  hard.  Eucahpti  have  been  planted  in 
many  places  because  wholesome  effects  have  been  attributed 
to  their  exhalations.  But  in  reality  the  infinitely  small 
quantity  of  volatile  oil  which  the  tree  emits  could  scarcely 
have  any  appreciable  effect.  On  the  other  hand  as  they 
grow  so  rapidl}',  and,  being  evergreen,  continue  to  eva- 
porate water  from  their  leaves  summer  and  winter,  they 
may  contribute  tow^ards  the  draining  of  swamp^•  ground. 
The  hope  that  an  essence  extracted  from  the  leaves  and 
bark  of  the  Eucalyptus  would  take  the  place  of  Quinine 
was  never  realised.  But  this  extract  does  really  possess 
certain  febrifuge  properties,  and  justifies  its  use  from  time 
immemorial  by  the  Australian  aborigines.  In  April  the 
older  trees  on  the  Riviera  are  decked  with  large,  white 
flowers,  which  are  remarkable  for  their  numerous,  long, 
thread-like  stamens.  The  Botanist  will  know  at  once  that 
he  is  dealing  with  a  plant  belonging  to  the  Myrtle  family. 
A  peculiarity  of  the  Eucalyptus  is  that  their  flower-buds 
open  by  a  round  lid,  w^hich  falls  off  like  a  white  frosted 


ACiRUMI. 


^tatc  ^ibraru 


cap.  Tliese  lids  ma\'  be  seen  in  spring  hing  in  great 
quantities  under  the  Eucahptus  trees :  wlien  trodden  upon 
the\"  emit  a  \  er\  penetrating  odour.  Latterh  these  tlower- 
buds  liave  been  turned  to  account  in  the  making  of 
crosses  and  rosaries.  \'oung  Eucahptus  trees,  such  as 
Ave  see  in  our  nortliern  greenhouses,  jiresent  at  first 
ijuite  a  different  appearance  to  that  of  older  trees.  They 
scarceh'  seem  like  the  same  plant.  The  leaves  are  short 
and  broad,  encircling  the  stem  with  their  base,  and  are 
attached  horizontalh':  onh'  on  tlie  older  branches  are 
these  replaced  b\  the  narrow,  pointed,  long-stalked  leaves 
Avhicli   hang  down. 

-Eiicalxptiis  globulus,  which  is  such  a  favourite  on 
the  Riviera,  is  not  the  hardiest  representative  of  the 
genus,  for  even  here  it  suffers  in  exposed  situations  in  a 
severe  winter.  MauA'  species  stand  the  cold  better,  and 
Ii.  Gtiinii  thrives  even  as  far  north  as  Whittingham 
near  Edinburgh. 

To  the  high  chain  of  the  Maritime  Alps,  which  ward 
off  the  cold  north  wind,  the  Riviera  di  Ponente  owes 
its  mild  climate.  Without  this  protecting  barrier  the  culti- 
vation of  the  Agrumi  in  this  latitude  would  be  impos- 
sible. In  man\-  places  on  the  coast  between  Xice  and 
Savona  the  Agrumi  thrive  (.[uite  as  well  as  the\  do  at 
Naples:  wliereas  one  might  traverse  the  inland  districts 
of  Northern  and  Middle  Itah'  without  seeing  anA'  of  them. 
Under  the  name  of  '"Agrumi"'  are  included  the  represen- 
tatives of  the  genus  Citrus.  The  Catalogue  of  La  Mortola 
Gardens  contains  the  names  of  more  than  twent\'  species 
and    varieties    of    this    genus.      Almost    all    the    kinds  of 


52  AGRUMI. 


Agrumi  cultivated  in  Italv  maA'  be  seen  in  this  garden 
brought  together  within  a  small  compass.  These  trees 
are  so  inseparably  connected  in  our  minds  with  southern 
skies  that  the  land  of  Itah'  is  ever  pictured  in  our  dreams 
as  permeated  with  the  fragrance  of  orange  blossom  and 
gleaming  with  their  golden  fruit.  Goethe's  beautiful 
"Mignonlied",  lines  which  have  expressed  for  all  time 
the  yearning  of  the  northerner  for  sunnier  climes,  has  no 
doubt  contributed  much  to  this  idea.  But  though  the 
Agrumi  maA'  appear  to  form  part  of  the  Italian  landscape 
they  nevertheless  were  not  introduced  there  till  compara- 
tiveh'  late  and  have  remained  conhned  to  certain  districts. 
Their  home  is  in  distant  Asia,  in  India  and  Southern 
China,  and  they  made  their  way  to  Europe  through  the 
Levant.  The  name  "Citrum"  was  first  applied  by  the 
ancients  to  the  wood  of  Callitris  qziadrivalvis  as  may  be 
seen  in  the  "Traite  du  Citrus"  b\'  Gallesio  (1811),  the 
"Histoire  naturelle  des  oranges"  \>\  Risso  (1801),  \^ictor 
Hehn's  "Kulturpflanzen  und  Haustiere",  the  "Origin  of 
Cultivated  Plants"  \i\  Alphonse  de  Candolle.  and  lasth^ 
Fliickiger's  "Pharmakognosie",  not  to  mention  older  sour- 
ces of  information.  A  well  grown  specimen  of  this  north 
African  conifer  ma\'  also  be  seen  lin  Sir  Thomas  Han- 
bury's  gardens.  It  fields  "Gum  Sandarac",  a  resin  which 
exudes  from  the  bark  in  hard,  white  drops  and  trickles 
from  the  trunk  when  injured.  Grained  slabs  of  this  per- 
fumed wood  and  transverse  sections  of  the  trunk  were 
highly  prized  by  the  Romans.  They  were  coveted  ob- 
jects among  the  splendour-loving  Roman  nobles,  and  rea- 
lized high  prices.     Some   of  these    slabs    measured    more 


MEDIAN  APPLE. 


53 


than  ii  \iird  in  diameter;  tliev  were  supported  on  ivory 
pillars  and  called  "monopodia".  This  wood  was  also 
used  for  making  costh'  chests  in  which  woollen  garments 
were  preserved  from  moth.  When  later  the  "Median 
Apple"  became  known  to  the  Romans  and  acquired  the 
same  reputation  as  the  "L'itrum"  wood  for  keeping  off 
moth,  the  name  of  •"Citrum"  was  applied  to  it  also.  The 
first  accounts  of  the  trees  which  bore  these  "  Mala  citria" 
reached  Greece  at  the  time  of  Alexander  the  Great.  His 
conquests  opened  up  the  East  and  the  tropics  to  Greek 
culture  and  introduced  to  the  classical  lands  a  wider  range 
of  new  natural  objects  than  was  brought  in  at  anv  time 
until  the  discover\'  of  Tropical  America.  In  Media  the 
Greeks  first  saw  the  evergreen  tree  with  dark  foliage 
that  bore  the  golden  apples.  The  scholars  who  accom- 
panied Alexander  the  Great  gave  an  accurate  description 
of  the  tree  —  a  description  which  Theophrastus  has 
handed  down  to  us  in  his  "IIistor^'  of  Plants".  This 
however  did  not  prevent  legends  from  soon  springing  up 

around  this  wonderful  fruit; 

and    Pliny,     with    his 

zeal  for  collecting  such 

information,  has  preserved 

many    of    these.     The    leaves 

and  fruit  of  the  Citron  were 


very  powerful  antidote 
learned    Athenaeos,     of 


said  not  only  to  keep    off 

moth,    but    also   to   be   a 

to  poison.     Indeed  the 

Naucratis  in  Egypt, 


who  died  228  A.  D.,  tells  us  that 


It  was  a  common 


54  CITRONS. 


superstition  that  those  who  had  partaken  of  the  fruits 
of  the  Citron  tree  became  proof  against  the  bite  of 
poisonous  snakes.  So  at  least  we  are  given  to  under- 
stand in  that  curious  work  of  Athenaeos",  so  rich  in 
quotations,  which  he  has  called  "Deipnosophists"  or 
"Banquet  of  the  learned".  Here,  under  the  guise  of  an 
imaginary  feast,  he  gives  us  a  vast  amount  of  information 
respecting  old  manners  and  customs  and  the  art  and 
science  of  his  time.  A  rich  and  gluttonous  Roman  "bel 
esprit"  has  invited  to  his  banquet  manv  artists,  poets 
and  learned  men.  The  delicacies  which  are  provided 
stimulate  the  company  to  conversation  on  manv  topics. 
Apropos  of  the  Citrons  a  certain  Democritus  relates  the 
following,  told  by  his  friend  the  governor  of  Egypt. 
Two  criminals  had  been  condemned  to  death  by  poisonous 
snake  bites,  but  did  not  succumb  because  they  had  pre- 
vioush'  eaten  Citrons,  The  experiment  was  repeated  with 
the  same  men  when  one  had  been  provided  with  the 
antidote  and  the  other  not.  The  former  recovered  from 
the  bites  of  the  venomous  reptiles,  while  the  other  died 
at  once.  This  same  Democritus  recommends  a  Citron 
cooked  with  honey  as  the  best  antidote  to  poison.  If 
vou  take  this  antidote  in  the  morning  \ou  will  be  proof 
against  poisoning  for  the  whole  daA'.  There  is  always 
a  spark  of  truth  underlving  the  superstitions  which  give 
rise  to  such  fables.  As  a  matter  of  fact  the  Citron  pos- 
sesses strong  antiseptic  properties,  for  which  it  is  even 
now  valued.  The  ancients  had  already  found  out  that 
the  juice  of  the  Citron  purified  the  breath.  This  was 
not  our  Lemon  but  the  true  thick-skinned  Citrus  medica 


Tin-:  LEMON.  55 


which  is  characterised  bv  its  wart\'  surface,  and  which 
is  onl\  sli^'lith'  acid.  There  is  a  hirge- fruited  variet\'  of 
tliis  Citron,  the  L'edrat,  familiar  to  us  in  confectionarw 
The  rind  is  exceedini2;l\-  thick  and  when  preserved  in  sui»-ar 
is  known  as  ''candied  peel".  A  spherical  Lemon,  remark- 
able for  its  roui^h  and  aromatic  rind,  is  distinguished 
as  "Adam's''  or  "Paradise  Apple".  This  was  supposed  to 
be  the  fruit  of  the  Tree  of  Knoweledge  and  is  still  used 
to  represent  it  b\-  the  Jews  in  tlieir  Feast  of  Tabernacles. 
The  fruits  most  in  request  for  this  feast  are  grown  in 
Corsica,  Corfu,  ]\h)rocco  and  Palestine,  and  fetcli  ver\' 
high  prices  when  the^'  are  of  the  prescribed  form. 

At  the  beginning  of  our  era  the  Citron  tree  was 
broupfht  to  Rome  from  the  far  East  in  earthenware  vessels. 
Thus  grown  it  became  \evv  fasliionable  and  was  used 
to  adorn  the  gardens  and  colonnades  of  the  villas.  Being 
ver\'  sensitive  to  cold  it  is  planted  out  onh-  in  the  most 
sheltered  spots.  It  differs  from  all  other  Agrumi  in  that 
it  bears  flowers  and  fruit  all  the  ^ear  round. 

The  Lemon  was  brought  to  south  Europe  in  the 
tenth  centur\-  hv  the  Arabs,  reaching  first  Spain  and 
then  Sicih'.  At  this  time  it  was  still  unknown  on  the 
Coast  of  Liguria  where  it  \\'as  introduced  towards  the 
end  of  the  eleventh  centur\-  hv  the  Crusaders,  who 
brought  it  from  S\ria  and  Palestine.  The  "Pamplemousse'' 
and  the  bitter-fruited  Orange  were  introduced  on  the 
Riviera  with  the  Lemon  tree.  Liguria  was  for  a  long 
time  the  onh-  land  in  which  the  Agrumi  were  specialh' 
cultivated,  and  this  industr\-,  no  doubt,  received  a  con- 
siderable   imi-)ulse    in    tlie    fourteenth    centur\-    when    the 


56 LIME  JUICE. 

demand  for  luxuries  began  to  increase.  It  spread  in 
Italy  simultaneously  with  the  use  of  lemonade,  the  pre- 
paration of  which  had  been  learnt  from  the  Orientals. 
The  lirst  "Limandiers",  which  were  soon  to  plav  a  sim- 
ilar part  to  the  "Cafetiers"  of  toda\',  appeared  in 
Paris  at  the  time  of  Cardinal  Mazarin.  The  Lemon, 
which  possesses  the  same  purit\-ing  properties  as  the 
Citron,  makes  a  drink  which  is  not  onh'  refreshing  but 
also  antiseptic.  In  the  herbals  of  Tabernaemontanus, 
"Der  Arzney  Doctoris  und  Chur-Fiirstlicher  Pfaltz  Me- 
dici", which  dates  from  the  latter  half  of  the  sixteenth 
centur\',  we  are  told  that  Lime-juice  "is  not  onh*  a  spe- 
cific for  internal  complaints  and  poison",  but  also  "for 
all  sadness,  heavy-heartedness  and  melancholy".  The 
peel  is  said  to  counteract  poison,  "for  in  times  of  plague 
it  should  be  kept  in  the  mouth,  and  also  be  used  for 
fumigating".  Lime-juice  is  toda^'  the  most  efficacious 
anti-scorbutic,  counteracting  that  disease  of  the  mouth 
and  gums  to  which  sailors  are  especialh'  subject.  For 
this  reason  Lime-juice  is  carried  in  sealed  bottles  on 
the  war  ships  of  the  English  nav\-,  and  other  countries 
have  followed  their  example. 

I  have  endeavoured  to  ascertain  the  origin  of  the 
custom,  \vhich  is  still  so  widely  spread,  among  bearers, 
of  carrying  a  Lemon  in  their  hand  at  funerals.  This 
was  at  one  time  an  almost  universal  practice.  I  have 
come  to  the  conclusion  that  it  was  originally  on  account 
of  the  purifying  properties  and  strong  scent  of  the  Le- 
mon, and  that  later  a  symbolic  meaning  has  come  to  be 
attached    to    it.     The  Lemon   has    subserved  many  sym- 


LEMONS  IN  SVAIBOLISAI.  57 


bolic  uses.  J.  B.  Friedrichs  in  his  "Die  Symbolik  der 
MA'thologie  der  Natur"  says:  —  "The  aromatic,  refre- 
shing and  reviving  properties  of  the  Lemon  led  to  its 
adoption  as  the  symbol  of  Life  and  as  an  emblem  ot 
protection  against  the  agencies  destructive  of  it.  Hence, 
according  to  ancient  belief,  the  Lemon  guarded  against 
sorcery.  The  Indian  widow,  who  is  about  to  be  burned 
after  the  death  of  her  husband,  carries  a  Lemon  in  her 
hand  on  her  wa}'  to  the  funeral-pyre,  as  an  emblem  of 
future  reunion  with  her  husband;  and  the  mourners  at  a 
luneral  carr\-  in  their  hand  a  Lemon  s^'mbolising  the 
new  life  of  the  departed.  Children  going  to  their  first 
Communion  also  carry  this  fruit  as  a  sign  that  they  are 
entering  upon  a  new  life  through  their  renewed  bond 
with  God". 

Citrus  dccHiuajia,  the  "Pamplemousse",  will  at  once 
attract  attention  in  the  gardens  of  La  Mortola  by  the 
size  of  its  fruits.  They  hang  from  the  tree  like  great, 
bright  }ellow  balls  and  sometimes  attain     -:^^. 

six  kilos  in  weig-ht.  The  tiavour  is      ,  -  »  .     ^^^ 

...  ^:  ;3!v-        _  K'^'         « 

msipid,  but  IS  improved  by  the  '  '^         -  ' '•      ■ 

addition  of  sugar  and  wine. 

The  bitter-fruited  Orange     '>/ 

has  particularh'  aromatic  le-     .^^  -, 

aves  and  flowers.     Its  deep 

golden  fruits  are  not  eaten 

fresh,  but  the  rind  when 

preserved  in  sugfar  is  very  \ 

tasty.    A  volatile  oil  is  ex-       ^'  •.    '->^^ '  ^  '   >' 

pressed  Irom  the  loaves,  flowers  Caiiuhamuion  roseum. 


58  THE  ORANGE. 


and  unripe  fruits,  and  these  latter  are  much  used  in  the 
making  of  Liqueur.  As  the  bitter -fruited  Orange  is 
particularl)'  hardA'  it  is  commonh'  used  as  a  stock  on 
which  to  graft  other  species  of  Citrus. 

The  sweet-fruited  Orange  reached  Europe  consider- 
ably later  than  its  relations.  It  is  commonh"  supposed 
that  the  Portugese  brought  it  with  them  from  vSouth 
China  towards  the  middle  of  the  sixteenth  century,  and 
the  ^xar  1548  is  even  mentioned  as  the  date.  Indeed 
a  tree  said  to  be  the  first  ever  planted  in  Europe  was 
shown  in  the  garden  of  Count  St.  Lorenzo  at  Lisbon. 
It  is  however  certain  that  the  sweet  Orange  adorned  the 
gardens  of  Spain  and  Itah*  long  before  this;  it  must 
have  reached  Europe  as  earh'  as  the  fourteenth  century. 
Galesio  attempts  to  prove  in  his  "Traite  du  Citrus", 
published  in  1811,  that  the  cultivation  of  the  sweet 
Oranpfe  dates  back  to  the  fifteenth  centur^'  even  on  the 
Riviera;  but  his  argument  is  not  conclusive.  He  adduces 
as  a  proof  the  fact  that,  according  to  the  archives  of 
Savona  of  the  year  1471,  a  present  of  preserved  Citrons 
and  Lemons,  as  well  as  fresh  "Citruli",  was  sent  to 
their  envoy  at  Milan.  And  because  the  fruits  called 
"Citruli"  were  sent  fresh  Galesio  infers  that  they  were 
sweet  Oranges,  since  the  envo\'  would  not  have  been 
able  to  eat  bitter  ones.  Moreover  in  the  records  of  a 
Notarv  in  Savona  mention  has  been  found  of  a  trans- 
action, in  1472,  in  connection  with  the  lading  of  a  ship 
with  fifteen  thousand  "Citranguli"  or  "Cetroni",  and 
Galesio  asks  what  the\'  could  be  doing  with  fifteen 
thousand  bitter  Oranges.     We  ma\'.    however,    leave  his 


Tin-:  oKANci:.  59 


question  unanswered  without  conceding  that  thcv  were 
roalh  sweet  Oranges,  (jalesio's  assumption  seems  all 
the  more  unwarranted  since  Matthaeus  Sihaticus  of  Sa- 
lerno, in  his  "Ojius  pandectarum  medicinae"  completed 
in  1317,  calls  the  bitter  (Grange  ''Citranguluni'".  "Fhis 
same  name  was  also  used  before  his  time  b\'  the  trans- 
lators of  Arabic  works  to  render  tlie  word  ••Xarindj". 
Acrain,  tlie  name  ''Portogallo"".  hv  \\hich  the  Orange  is 
still  commonh'  known  in  Itah',  points  to  the  important 
part  phned  hv  the  Portugese  in  the  distribution  of  the 
better  kinds  of  sweet  Orano-e.  The  Chinese  orip-in  of 
the  sweet  Orange  is  shown  b\'  the  (jerman  name  "Apfel- 
sine",  originallv  "Sinaapfel"  or  Chinese  Apple.  This 
German  name  was  adopted  b\'  the  Russians,  although 
immediate  neighbours  of  the  Chinese  —  a  proof,  as  Victor 
Ilehn  sa^■s.  of  tlie  comjilete  revolution  in  the  world's 
traftic,  whicli  since  the  time  of  \"asco  de  Gama  no 
longer  passed  tlirough  Asia  from  East  to  West,  but 
along  the  less  direct  highwa\'  of  the   Ocean. 

The  name  '"Orange""  comes  from  the  Sanscrit 
"Xagarunga""  or  "Xagrunga'".  The  Arabs  have  altered 
this  to  ••Xarunj".  tlie  Italians  to  "Xaranzi"  or  '"Aranci*", 
the  Spaniards  to  "'Xaranja".  the  Portugese  "Laranja", 
and  lastK'  the  French  to  •"Orange"".  The  name  "poma 
aurantia"",  golden  apple,  used  in  the  Middle  Ages, 
resembles  that  of  '"Orange"'  onh'  in  sound.  Put  "jioma 
aurantia""  gave  rise  to  the  German  "Pomeranze""  and  the 
Polish  "Pomaraiicza". 

The  Golden  Apples  of  the  Hesperides.  whicli, 
according    to    legend.    I  lercules   brought    from  the   West. 


60  THE  ORANGE. 


cannot  have  been  Oranges,  as  is  proved  by  the  history 
of  this  fruit.  Thev  were  more  probabl}'  ideaHsed 
Quinces.  These  fruits,  sacred  to  Aphrodite,  were  given 
as  prizes  in  contests  and  as  bridal  gifts  in  ancient  times 
in  Hellas. 

The  beauty  of  a  fulh'  developed  Orange  tree  adorned 
with  hundreds  of  g-olden  fruits  can  hardh'  be  realised 
on  the  Riviera  or  even  at  Sorrento.  I  first  saw  them 
in  their  full  luxuriance,  and  about  the  size  of  our  Apple 
trees,  at  the  foot  of  Mount  Etna.  Theobald  Fischer,  in 
his  "Beitragen  zur  physischen  Geographic  der  Mittel- 
meerlander".  asserts  that  in  Sicily  a  full-grown  and  well 
cultivated  Orange  tree  yielded  from  six  to  seven  hundred 
and  a  Lemon  tree  a  thousand  to  a  thousand  one  hundred 
fruits.  Formerly  a  hectare  of  land  at  Palermo  planted 
with  Agrumi  brought  in  on  an  average  three  thousand 
Lire  gross  profit :  whereas  the  most  fertile  gardens  near 
Paris  onh'  bring  in  two  thousand  live  hundred  to  two 
thousand  seven  hundred  Francs  for  a  similar  area.  But 
according  to  Theobald  Fischer  Orange  growing  has 
become  less  profitable  in  Sicil}'  since  then.  The  in- 
creasing cultivation  of  the  Orange  wherever  the  climate 
is  suitable  to  it,  especially  in  the  United  States,  has 
lowered  the  prices  considerabh'. 

There  is  an  infinite  variety  of  Oranges  of  which 
however  only  a  few  reach  us.  Among  others  is  the 
increasingly  popular  "Blood  Orange",  or  "Jericho 
Orange". 

Mandarins  (Citrus  uobi'h's),  are  now  exported  from 
Italy  in   great  numbers.  The  shrub,  which  thrives  on  the 


spi':cib:s  OF  citrus. 


61 


Riviera  oven  better  tlian  tlie  Orange  tree,  is  considered 
as  a  separate  species.  It  is  smaller  in  all  its  parts,  and 
easilv  recognised  hv  its  rounded,  b^sh^'  growth.  ^Phe 
Alandarin  has  been  culti\ated  in  C'hina  and  L'ochin 
China  from  time  immemorial ;  but  it  appeared  tirst  in 
Europe  in   182S. 

Citrus  Iicrii'a»n'a,  the  rind  of  wliich  \iclds  the  ex- 
t|uisite  perfume  known  as  "Oil  of  Bergamot",  may  also 
be  seen  in  La  Mortola  (jardens.  as  well  as  tlie  Ci'lrus 
jMyrtifolia.  The  very  small  fruits  of  this  latter,  when 
perserved  in  sugar,  form  the  much  liked  ''Chinois".  The 
sweet  Lemon  or  "Limette",  which  is  onh'  a  variety  ot 
the  ordinar^'  Lemon,  and  is  eaten  like  the  sweet  Orange, 
is  also  grown  there. 

A  curious  shrub  is  Citrus  trifoliata  from  Japan.  It 
bears  trifoliate  leaves    and    is    armed   with    .  " 

large,    sharp   thorns.     Except  in   the  struc- 
ture   of   its    flowers    and    fruits  tliis  plant 
bears  no  resemblance  to  the  other  species  '^ 

of  Citrus.     The   perfume    of    the  large,    white 
flowers  is  not  very  strong. 

Little  was  known  about  the  native 
country  of  the  Orange    family  until 
it    wuis    found    wild    by    explorers. 


Calycotonie 
sjiinosa 


62  BIZZARRIA. 


According  to  a  critical  comparison  of  Engler's  discoveries 
wild  Agrumi  were  found  at  the  foot  of  the  Himalayas 
and  in  other  neighbouring  Indian  districts.  There,  too, 
the  bitter  Orange  grows  wild.  The  sweet  Orange  and 
Mandarin,  on  the  other  hand,  are  indigenous  to  Cochin 
China  and  South  China.  The  origin  of  the  Pample- 
mousse  is  still  uncertain. 

There  is  a  striking  sport,  or  freak,  in  the  Gardens, 
indicated  in  the  Catalogue  as  ''Citrus  Aurantuim  var. 
Btiddhajjiigercd^' .  The  peculiarity  consists  in  the  indi- 
vidual divisions  of  the  Orange  growing  free  instead  of 
being  united  into  a  single,  round  fruit.  So  that  the 
Orange  develops  a  number  of  protuberances  reminding 
one  slightly  of  a  hand  with  out-stretched  fingers.  This 
led  to  its  being  likened  in  India  to  Buddha's  hand, 
and  gave  rise  to  superstitious  fables.  Similar  freaks 
occur  in  the  Citrons  and  Lemons,  and  are  perpetuated 
b}'  grafting. 

Far  and  away  the  most  remarkable  of  the  *'Agrumi" 
is  the  Bizzarria,  which  bears  Oranges,  Lemons  and 
Citrons  all  together.  It  produces  also  intermediate  forms, 
as  well  as  fruits  which  have  some  of  their  divisions  like 
those  of  Oranges  and  others  like  those  of  Lemons  or 
Citrons.  Bizzarrias  have  been  described  the  fruits  of 
which  united  the  characteristics  of  five  different  species 
of  Acfrumi.  The  oriffin  of  the  Bizzarria  is  not  as  vet 
understood.  They  are  considered  \)\  some  authorities 
to  be  hybrids,  while  others  maintain  that  they  arose  by 
the  fortuitous  blending  of  the  characteristics  of  the 
stock    and    the    scion.       This    would    be    remarkable,  for 


CVTISUS  AD  AMI. 63 

loiiii^  experience  in  o-ratlin(r  frnit  trees,  roses  and  otlier 
plants  teaches  us  that  the  stock  lias  no  perceptible 
inthience  on  tlie  scion,  and  tliat  both  retain  their  cliaracter 
unaltered.  Bizzarrias  have  been  known  since  the  middle 
of  the  seventeenth  centur\'.  Th?\'  nuist  al\va\s  have 
attracted  attention  on  account  of  their  peculiarities.  The 
first  Bizzarria  to  be  described  was  one  grown  in  the 
Panciatichi  Gardens  at  Florence  in  1644.  In  1 711  the 
*'Academie  des  Sciences'"  investigated  this  plant  and 
came  to  the  conclusion  that  it  was  as  much  a  distinct 
species  as  the  Orange  or  Lemon. 

There  is  a  small  tree  grown  in  our  northern  gardens 
which  is  as  peculiar  as  the  Bizzarria  and  whose  origin 
is  equalh'  obscure.  It  is  a  Laburnum,  called  Cy//sf(s 
Adami  after  the  French  gardener  who  introduced  it. 
This  graceful  and  interesting  tree  is  eas\'  to  grow,  so 
that  no  garden-lover  need  be  without  one.  ,The  majorit^' 
of  its  tlower-clusters  are  like  those  of  the  common 
Labiu'num  {^Cxtisus  Lahunntni)  but  of  a  dull  red  colour. 
Some  twigs  bear  bunches  of  pure  A'ellow  flowers,  while 
others  have  solitary  purple  llowers.  The  twigs  on  which 
these  latter  grow  are  differently  shaped,  with  smaller 
leaves  resembling  another  species  of  C^•tisus,  C.  purptireiis. 
Lasth'  tliis  plant  produces  clusters  of  tlowers  some  of 
which  are  ^•ellow,  some  red  and  others  half  red  and  half 
yellow.  Onh'  those  blossoms  which  resemble  Cyti'sus 
Laburnum  and  C.  purpurcus  produce  seed;  the  others, 
like  those  of  so  man^•  h\brids,  are  barren.  Most  author- 
ities are  inclined  to  the  opinion  now  that  Cy/isus 
Adami  is  a  peculiar    In  brid  between    C.  Lahunium    and 


64  GRAFTING. 


C.  pMrpureus  although  the  gardener  Adam,  at  \^itrv 
near  Paris,  stated  that  he  had  produced  this  new  plant 
by  grafting  C.  piirpureus  on  C.  J^ahurnuiu.  Proofs  of 
this  assertion  are  not  forthcoming  and  all  statements 
about  the  blending  of  characteristics  \>\  other  means 
than  by  crossing,  remain  unsubstantiated. 

Those  plants  which  bear  dissimilar  llowers  and 
fruits  on  the  same  tree  because  a  branch  of  another 
species  has  been  grafted  on  it.  come  under  quite  a 
different  category  to  the  Bizzarria  and  Cytisus  Adanu'. 
Thus  trees  bearing  both  Lemons  and  Oranges  \n?i\ 
occasionalh'  be  seen  in  the  gardens  of  the  Riviera.  But 
in  this  case  neither  species  has  anv  intiuence  upon  the 
other.  The  uniting  of  different  species  on  one  stem  bv 
grafting  is  practicable  onh'  within  narrow  limits,  for  the 
scion  and  stock  must  be  closely  allied.  Statements 
are?  however,  continually  being  made  to  the  contrary, 
and  in  ancient  times  stories  of  Nuts  being  grafted  on  Ar- 
butus, Apples  on  Planes,  and  Pears  on  Ash-trees  were 
commonly  believed.  Virgil  did  much  to  spread  these 
fables  by  his  '"Georgics".  Plin^'  repeats  them,  and  in- 
sists moreover  that  he  has  himself  seen  in  the  "Tiburtes 
Tullias"  a  tree  which  bore  nuts  on  one  branch,  berries 
on  another  and  grapes,  figs,  pomegranates,  pears  and 
apples  on  others.  A  tree  of  this  sort  would  indeed  pro- 
vide a  large  variety  of  dessert !  What  a  pity  that  the 
'•Tiburtes  Tullias"  should  alone  have  possessed  such  a 
tree,  and  that  it  has  never  been  seen  since!  Again,  ac" 
cording  to  Plin\',  hybrids  such  as  nut-plums,  apple-plums, 
almond-plums  and  laurel-cherries    could   be  produced  \>\ 


GRAFTING. 


()5 


Cafparls 
spinosa. 


grafting!  As  earh'  as  the  middle  of  the 
lirteenth  centur\-  Albertus  Magnus,  con- 
inced  b^'  his  own  observations,  contra- 
licts  this  statement  in  his  "De  Vegetabi- 
libus".  1  le  asserts 
especially  that  bolli 
stock  and  scion 
retain  their  own 
characteristics, 
developing  each  after 
its  own  kind.  Consider- 
able progress  in  horticulture  was 
y  made  in  the  middle  of  the  six- 
teenth century  by  Kurfiirst  August 
of  Saxony,  who  was  so  enthusiastic  about  the 
cultivation  of  fruit  trees  that  he  himself  wrote  a 
"Kiinstlich  Obstgarten-Biichlein"'  in  1504.  Those  of  his 
statements  which  are  based  on  his  own  experiments 
are  reliable,  but  even  he  is  occasionally  led  awa\'  by 
his  enthusiasm  to  relate  in  good  faith  that  Almond  has 
been  grafted  upon  Willow  and  Chestnut  on  Beech,  and 
how  Apples  thrive  and  bear  red  fruits  when  grafted  on 
Maple !  Le  Gendre,  one  of  the  chief  inventors  of  the 
method  of  training  fruit  trees  as  espaliers,  took  his  stand 
on  the  ground  of  actual  experience,  and  in  his  book 
"La  Maniere  de  cultiver  les  Arbres  frutiers",  of  1652, 
no  mention  is  made  of  such  wonderful  things. 

Unfortunately  the  Bizzarria  is  becoming  rarer,  and 
hitherto  the  Mortola  Gardens  have  not  succeeded  in  ob- 
taining one.      However    this    garden    possesses    a    curious 


66 BORAGES. 

tree  bearing  fruits  like  Oranges  and  Lemons  in  shape 
but  both  orange  in  colour. 

Visitors  to  La  Mortola  will  be  glad  to  learn  the 
names  and  native  country  of  two  plants  which  must  have 
struck  them  in  other  gardens  —  Wig-audia  Caracasatia 
and  Jichiuin  fru/cscciis.  We  first  admired  this  V^enezuelan 
Wigandia  on  the  walls  of  \'illa  Copley;  its  large  violet 
flowers,  with  their  \'ellow  stamens,  grow  in  spikes,  which 
are  coiled  up  at  their  apex,  like  a  crosier,  as  are  the 
inflorescences  of  other  representatives  of  the  H\-dro- 
phyllaceae.  These  uncoil  as  the  flowers  open.  This 
arrangement  has  the  advantage  of  ensuring  a  ver^'  long 
flowering  period,  so  that  the  plant  can  tide  over  bad 
weather,  or  other  unfavourable  conditions,  without  failing 
to  set  seeds.  Jichium  friiicscens,  a  Borage  from  Mexico, 
is  closeh'  allied  to  our  common  Viper's  Bugloss  (£.  vjil- 
gare).  E.  frutescens  is  a  giant  representative  of  this 
latter,  and  those  who  know  the  Viper's  Bugloss  will  at 
once  recognise  it  as  such.  It  bears  the  same  blue  flowers 
in  one-sided  spikes,  onh'  considerabh'  larger. 

We  now  turn  to  the  "noble  Laurel",  a  tree  whose 
twigs  have  from  time  immemorial  crowned  the  victor's 
brow  and  whose  leaves  also  serve  the  modest  purpose 
of  flavouring  our  food.  The  Laurel  which  seems  as  clo- 
sely associated  with  the  Italian  landscape  as  the  Agrumi, 
was  certainh'  at  one  time  indigenous  to  South  Europe, 
for  palaeontological  discoveries  have  established  its  exis- 
tence in  prehistoric  times  not  only  in  Italy  but  also  in 
the  South  of  France.  Its  veneration  as  a  sacred  plant 
seems  to  have  come  from  Asia  Minor  across    the  Medi- 


11  ii:  i,.\lki:l.  67 

terranean.  It  was  sacred  to  Apollo,  and  as  the  sanctu- 
aries of  this  god  became  more  numerous  in  Greece,  the 
groves  ot  the  aromatic  and  c\ergreen  Laurel  were  multi- 
plied in  the  land.  The  Laurel  and  the  M\rtle,  which 
was  dedicated  to  Aphrodite,  were  brought  ()\er  to  Ital\' 
as  sacred  trees  at  the  time  of  the  introduction  of  the 
greek  gods.  In  La  Mortola  Gardens  the  Laurel  has 
been  j-jlanted  to  some  extent,  and  has  now  established 
itself  on  the  west  slope  between  the  road  and  the 
garden. 

Shad\'  avenues  of  Laurel  and  Plane,  especialh'  on 
the  Campus  Martius,  delighted  the  citizens  of  ancient 
Rome.  The  belief  that  the  Laurel  afforded  protection 
against  demons.  sorcer\-  and  infection,  was  once  univer- 
sal. Thus  we  are  told  that  when  a  plague  was  imminent 
the  timid  Commodus  \sought  safet^'  in  a  Laurel  Grove. 
^^  reaths  of  Laurel  were  placed  on  the  brows  and  round 
the  necks  of  the  insane  to  cure  them.  Laurel  berries  or 
leaves  were  partaken  of  hv  the  priests  of  Apollo  before 
prophes\-ing;  and  prophets  carried  Laurel  when  entering 
a  town.  The  Laurel  cleansed  from  blood-guiltiness,  and 
with  it  the  Roman  legions  purified  their  standards  and 
weapons  directh'  after  a  victor^ .  Plence  it  came  to  be 
regarded  as  an  emblem  of  victor\'  and  a  s^'mbol  of 
successfulh'  accomplished  campaigns.  It  was  considered 
as  an  omen  of  good  fortune  that  on  the  da^•  when 
Augustus  was  born  the  Laurel  tree  in  front  of  tlie  l\da- 
tine  sprouted,  l^he  cleansing  properties  of  the  Laurel 
led  to  its  use  as  an  aspergilluni.  The  devotee  dipped 
Laurel    leaves  into  the  hoh'  water  and   sprinkled  himself 

3 


68  THE  LAUREL. 


as  he  entered  or  left  the  temple,  and  liked  to  take  away 
a  leaf  of  it  in  his  mouth.  The  Roman  Catholic  Church 
discarded  Laurel  twigs  as  aspergilla  and  adopted  the 
Hyssop  {Origanum  Smyriiaeuiu)  for  that  purpose  from 
the  Jews. 

According  to  Plin\'  the  Laurel  does  not  burn  freely. 
This  is  proved  b^'  its  crackling.  The  power  of  warding 
off  lire  was  ascribed  to  this  tree  because  in  the  con- 
flagration during  the  consulship  of  Spurius  Postumius  and 
Piso  the  Sacrarium,  protected  as  was  supposed  by  a 
Laurel  which  stood  in  front  of  it,  remained  intact  while 
the  Regia  was  in  flames.  On  the  other  hand  Laurel 
wood  was  used  \i\  the  ancients  in  the  kindling  of  lire ; 
it  did  not,  however,  ignite  itself,  but,  as  Theophrastus 
and  Pliny  report,  formed  the  rubbing  stick,  while  the 
base  or  socket,  which  took  lire  b\'  friction,  usually  con- 
sisted of  Buckthorn  (Rhammis)  or  \v\  wood.  A  pure 
sacrificial  lire  might  onlv  be  kindled  bv  the  friction  of 
two  pieces  of  lucky  wood,  or  bv  the  sun's  raAS  concen- 
trated by  means  of  a  burning  glass,  or  concave  metal 
mirrors.  Laurel  was  also  said  to  ward  off  lightning;  and 
therefore  the  superstitious  Tiberius,  as  Suetonius  relates, 
crowned  himself  with  a  wTeath  of  this  plant  when  a 
storm  was  threatening.  Certain  observations  maA'  have 
given  rise  to  the  belief  that  the  Laurel  possesses  peculiar 
storm  repelling  powers,  for  some  trees  are  less  frequently 
struck  by  lightning  than  others.  In  our  own  country 
Walnut  trees  are  very  seldom  struck  and  Oaks  the  most 
frequently.  The  reason  for  this  is  that  the  conducting 
power    of    wood    varies    much    in    different    species.     It 


THI-:  CAMPHOR  TREE.  69 


appears  from  experiments  wliich  ha\e  been  made,  that 
those  trees  which  contain  much  oil  in  their  wooch'  tissue 
at  the  time  ol  \  ear  when  storms  are  irecjuent,  are  the  least 
exposed  to  the  ravages  of  lightning.  Dead  branches  on 
a  tree  increase  the  chances  of  its  being  struck.  It  must 
have  been  earh'  noticed  that  the  Oak  was  most  freciuenth' 
struck,  hence  it  was  sacred  to  the  God  of  Thunder. 
The  contrar\-  supposition  is  not  so  well  founded  in  the 
case    of    the   Laurel,    at  an\'  rate  it  lias  been  questioned. 

The  Camphor  tree  (Ci>niamonium  Camphora)  belongs 
to  the  Laurel  family  and  is  a  native  of  Western  China 
and  Japan.  It  grows  to  a  line  tree  on  the  Italian  Lakes 
but  does  not  llourish  here  as  the  calcareous  soil  does  not 
suit  it.  The  evergreen  leaves  of  the  Camphor  tree  are 
much  thinner  than  those  of  the  Laurel,  and  as  they 
grow  on  long  stalks  the  foliage  has  a  less  dense  appear- 
ance. In  addition  to  this  the  leaves  are  of  a  much 
lighter  green,  shinv  above,  glaucous  below.  When  bruis- 
ed the  leaves  emit  a  strong  smell  of  Camphor;  the 
Camphor,  however,  is  not  procured  in  an\'  great  quantity 
from  these,  but  from  the  wood  of  the  tree  b^'  sublimation. 

Closeh'  related  to  the  Camphor  tree  is  the  Cinnamon 
(Cinnamomiim  7.eylaniciim)  whose  shiny  green  leaves 
when  cruslied  smell  of  carnations.  The  Cinnamon  of 
commerce  consists  of  the  bark  of  \oung  shoots  of  the 
Cinnamon  tree,  which  are  cut  off  and  peeled  after  heav\- 
rain.  The  bark  is  allowed  to  dr\-  first  in  the  shade  and 
them  in  the  sun,  so  that  the  Hakes  curl  up  together  and 
form  little  rolls.  Hence  the  German  name  of  "Kaneel" 
from   ''canella",  a  little  reed  or  tube. 

•3 


70 PERvSEA  GRATISSIMA. 

In  unpleasant  contrast  to  these  aromatic  Laurineae 
is  another  representative  of  the  same  famih',  Oreodaphne 
californica^  an  evergreen  tree  which  grows  well  here  and 
whose  specific  name  indicates  its  native  country.  In 
gardens  it  is  frequently  labelled  Laiinis  regalis,  and 
indeed  it  is  verv  like  the  Laurel.  The  leaves,  however, 
when  rubbed  emit  a  volatile  oil  the  smallest  quantit^'  of 
which  is  sufticient  to  irritate  the  mucous  membrane  of 
the  nose  intensely.  The  inhabitants  of  California  avoid 
these  trees  or  keep  to  the  windward  side  of  them,  as 
the  volatile  oil  which  they  diffuse  provokes  continued 
sneezing. 

Another  of  the  Laurineae,  the  Persea  gratissima, 
may  be  seen  at  La  Mortola.  It  is  much  grown  in 
tropical  gardens  and  bears  the  "Alligator  Pear"  or 
"Midshipman's  Butter".  The  crown  of  this  beautiful 
tree  is  dome-shaped  and  its  leaves  resemble  those  of  the 
Laurel.  The  fruits,  which  are  generally  pear-shaped, 
though  frequently  very  irregular,  have  a  stone  in  the 
middle.  The  pulp  melts  like  butter  in  the  mouth  and 
smells  like  musk-melon.  The  Mexicans  are  very  fond 
of  these  Alligator  Pears  made  into  salad,  and  vie  with 
one  another  in  the  tasty  preparation  of  it.  In  other 
countries  they  are  eaten  with  lemon-juice  and  sugar  and 
even  with  meat.  All  animals  are  fond  of  these  fruits 
and  resfard  them  as  delicacies.  Persea  o-raiissima  is 
indigenous  to  tropical  America.  The  name  "Persea", 
given  it  by  the  botanist  Gartner,  has  nothing  to  do 
with  that  Persea  which  was  so  highly  valued  by  the 
Egyptians.      In    the    opinion    of   Schweinfurt    the    Persea 


THE  GUAV'A. 


71 


honoured  b\-  tlie  Ei^^•ptia^s  and  described  b^' Theoplirastiis, 
was    J/iniiisops    Schuiipcri.      This    stateh'    tree,    with  its 
oblong,  leather^',  long-stalked  leaves  is  nearh'  related  to 
the    Ebon^^      These    leaves    were     ^\-S\    ' 
folded  together    and  \\-o\en    into 
wreaths    and    garlands    for    the 
dead.    And  the\'  are  still   found 
today,  often  combined  with  the 
petals     of    the     blue    Lotus 
{^^yniphaea     cocnilca),     on 
mummies  whom  they  decked 
when  laid  to  rest  fifteen  hun- 
dred   \ears    before    our   era. 
bolised     the     "Garland    of    Justification" 
which   the   wandering   soul    received  on 


its  entrance  to  the  Taser.    The  Persea 

tree  has  now  vanished  from  Egypt,  but 

it    grows    in    Abyssinia    and    the 

neighbouring  countries.  —  Anoth 

er  tropical  fruit    tree  of  which 

one    may  obtain    a    good 

idea  in  the  Mortola  Gardens 

is  the  Psidhun    which    bears 

the     Guava.       The 

Psidiiuii,     which 

belongs  to  the  M\  rtaceae,  is 

cultivated    in    all    tropical     land>. 

where  in  some  ways  it  takes  the  place 

seberr\-  bush;    it    is    ver}'  fruitful  and   is 

pagated.     The  plants  of  this  genus  grow 


- entranthns  ruber . 

of  our  Goo- 
easily  pro- 
into  bushes 


72  THE  DIOSPYROS. 


or  small  trees;  their  leaves  are  evergreen  and  thev  bear 
fruits  which  var\-  in  size  from  that  of  a  walnut  to  that  of  an 
egg.  The  fruits  are  eaten  "au  naturel'',  or  with  wine  and 
sugar.  The  flavour  of  some  is  like  strawberries;  others 
are  bitter-sweet ;  others  again  have  such  a  penetrating 
odour  that  thev  are  not  relished  bv  all.  Guava  Jellv  is 
much  esteemed  in  the  tropics,  and  it  is  now  being 
introduced  into  Europe. 

The  wood  of  the  Diospvros,  which  belongs  to  the 
Ebonv  familv,  is  of  more  importance  than  its  fruit.  The 
Kaki  tree  (Diospxrus  Kahi)  is  a  native  of  China  and 
Japan,  and  mav  \vell  flourish  at  La  Mortola  considering 
at  it  can  stand  the  winter,  in  sheltered  places,  even 
on  the  Rhine.  It  is  a  small  tree  with  ovate  leaves, 
whitish-yellow  flowers,  and  round,  reddish-^-ellow  fruits 
about  the  size  of  a  peach.  These  are  sometimes 
produced  in  great  numbers,  when  from  a  distance  the 
tree  appears  to  be  covered  with  large  flowers.  The 
fruits  must  be  over-ripe  to  acquire  their  full  flavour, 
which  is  something  between  that  of  plums  and  apricots. 
They  begin  to  gather  them  on  the  Riviera  in  the  middle 
of  October  but  the  fruits  then  taste  so  astringent  as  to 
be  hardlv  edible.  For  this  reason  thev  are  often  left 
on  the  trees  until  the  weather  becomes  too  cold,  when 
the-v  are  .brought  into  well-ventilated,  rooms  to  finish 
ripening.  These  fruits  are  frequentlv  to  be  seen  in  the 
market  at  Nice,  often  in  such  quantities  that  a  dozen 
may  be  bought  for  one  franc.  In  the  south  east  of 
Asia  thev  are  considered  a  great  delicacv  when  dried, 
and    are    called     "Kaki    Figs".        The    wood     somewhat 


MAN(;o.  —  PKPn:K  i"ki:i:.  73 

resembles  that  ot  cnir  Walnut  and  is  used  in  Jajian :  but 
it  is  tar  interior  to  the  timber  ot"  JJiospvros  J£bc/iiii]i, 
troni  South  India  and  L'e\lon,  and  other  allied  species 
which  \  ield  Ebon\ .  The  black  ''heart-wood"  ot"  this 
tree  was  prized  e\  en  in  ancient  times,  and  it  was  con- 
sidered tlie  most  valuable  of  all  woods.  Not  onh' 
Theophrastus  but  the  Old  Testament  also  is  full  of 
its  praises.  i'he  remarkable  closeness  of  its  grain  and 
its  dark  colour  make  it  ver\'  valuable.  Ebon\-  has 
alwa\s  been  easil\-  distinguished  from  stained  wood  bv 
its  weight. 

Tlie  Mango  tree,  J/angi'fcra  Indira  belonging  to  the 
Anacardiaceae,  which  bears  the  most  delicious  fruit  of 
the  tropics,  will  not  grow  at  \Iortola;  but  other  trees 
of  this  famih'  \\r<x\  be  seen  there.  For  instance  Schimis 
Molle,  a  tree  with  bright  green  pinnate  leaves  and 
bunches  of  red  berries,  which  is  ver\'  commonh-  met  with 
in  the  gartlens  and  on  the  roads  of  the  Riviera.  It  is 
called  "Pepper  Tree"  because  of  its  berries  which  are 
like  pepper-corns  but  it  is  not  related  to  the  real  pepper.  The 
true  pepper,  Piper  iiio-riiiu,  comes  from  a  slender  East 
Indian  liana,  which  climbs  like  the  \v\,  clinging  to  its 
support  b\'  aerial  roots.  The  berries  of  Schiniis  Afolle 
resemble  those  of  the  true  pepper  both  in  ap]:)earance 
and  flavour.  A  drink  made  from  these  berries  in  Peru 
and   Brazil   is  said  to  taste   like   wine. 

Another  interesting  plant  at  La  Mortola,  belonging 
to  the  Anacardiaceae,  is  P/ius  siicccdouca  which  ^•ields 
the  Japanese  wax,  and  RJiu:^  vcnu'cifcra,  from  whose 
milk\     juice    the    Japanese   prepare  their  famous  lacquer. 


74  THE  LOTUS. 


This  very  poisonous  milky  juice  flows  from  incisions 
which  are  made  in  the  bark.  The  lacquer  is  prepared 
by  adding  Cinnabar  and  oil  extracted  from  Bignonia 
ocymoides.  Rhus  vernicifera  will  grow  out  of  doors  in 
the  warmer  parts  of  Germany. 

We  must  not  neglect  those  species  of  Zyziphus  which 
we  come  across  in  Mortola  Gardens;  for  to  this  family 
belongs  the  Zyziphus  Lotus  which  is  indigenous  to  South 
Europe.  Zyziphus  Lotus  is  apparenth'  the  bush  whose 
fruits  are  mentioned  by  Homer.  Its  fruits  were  an  im- 
portant article  of  food  for  the  poor;  and  in  those  days 
the  inhabitants  of  Tunis  and  Tripoli  were  called  "Loto- 
phagi"  because  they  liyed  principally  on  them.  Many 
different  plants  went  by  the  name  of  Lotos  or  Lotus  in 
ancient  times,  and  were  distinguished  by  the  names  of 
their  natiye  countries.  Thus  Zyziphus  Lotus  was  the 
Cyrenian  Lotus,  Nyrnphaea  Lotos  the  Egyptian  Lotos, 
NeluDihiiou  speciosuni  the  sacred  Lotos  of  the  Hindoos, 
while  those  '"Lotos  trees",  which  adorned  the  pubHc 
gardens  at  Rome,  were  probably  Celtis  austrah's,  the 
"Nettle  tree",  which  grows  in  our  own  gardens.  At 
least  according  to  old  Matthiolus  of  Siena,  the  classical 
commentator  of  Dioscorides,  it  was  this  tree  which  the 
Romans  called  "Lybian  Lotus".  They  liked  it  because 
of  its  ample  shade,  and  because  it  afforded  abundant 
shelter  for  the  birds.  In  92  B.  C.  there  were  six  Lotos 
trees  in  the  garden  of  the  orator  Crassus  on  the  Palatine 
Hill.  They  stood  as  high  as  the  Palace.  It  was  consi- 
dered a  serious  loss,  when  150  years  later  they  were  de- 
stroyed in  the   conflagration  during  Nero's  reign.     Celtis 


THE  JLJLBE  TREE.  75 


austrah's  is  a  South  European  tree ;  it  tlierefore  did  well 
in  Rome  and  ripened  its  cherr\--like  stone-fruits  "gustu 
suavi  non  ingrato'".  which  are  at  first  red  and  turn  black. 
Celtis  belong-s  to  the  Elm  famih',  while  the  irenus  Zvzi- 
phus  belongs  to  the  Rhamnaceae.  The  fruits  of  Z\zipluis 
Loins  are  as  large  as  sloes,  and  the  meah'  substance 
which  surrounds  the  stone  can  be  used  for  making  bread 
and  also  for  the  preparation  of  a  fermented  beverage. 
The  favourite  Jujubes  of  commerce  were  formerlv  made 
from  tlie  fruits  of  other  species,  especialh'  from  those  of 
Zvziphus  vidg-an's,  a  small  S^■rian  tree,  and  of  Z.  jujiiha 
which  comes  from  India.  ^Vccording  to  tradition  the  Crown 
of  Thorns  was  made  from  the  strongly  armed  Zyziphiis 
Spina  Christi,  the  "Xebeg"'  or  "Ssidr",  which  is  widely 
distributed  in  the  Vale  of  Jordan,  and  round  the  Dead 
Sea.  The  spinous  Gleditschia,  cultivated  in  our  Northern 
gardens,  is  called  ''Christ's  Acacia"  in  German\-  and  has 
been  also  mentioned  in  connection  witli  tlie  Crown  of 
Thorns.  This  however  involves  a  gross  anachronism, 
for  the  Gleditschias  were  brought  to  Europe  from  North 
America  as  late  as  the  eighteenth  centur\'.  Plants  of  the 
Genus  Zvziphus  lose  their  leaves  in  winter;  but  they  deck 
themselves  earh-  with  their  very  dark  green  foliage.  The 
twigs  are  slender  and  pendulous,  and  when  the  fruits 
turn  red.  the  effect  is  \q.x\  graceful. 

The  plant  from  which  we  obtain  the  Capers,  Cap- 
paris  spinosa  (Fig.  p.  65)  is  a  handsome  shrub.  It  may 
be  found  all  along  the  Riviera  on  rocks  and  old  walls 
but  is  met  with  in  still  greater  profusion  on  the  North 
African  coast.   It  flowers  in  summer,  \\hen  the  thin,  droop- 


SOLAN  UMS. 


ing  branches,  with  their  round,  thickisli  leaves,  are  ador- 
ned with  large  blossoms  of  striking  beauty.  They  are  an 
ornament  to  the  Mediterranean  flora.  The  tuft  of  straggling 
stamens,  with  their  long,  violet  filaments  set  in  the 
snow-w^hite  petals,  lends  to  the  whole  a  delicate,  one  might 
almost  sav  poetic,  appearance.  In  the  spring  indeed  only 
flov/erless  plants  are  to  be  seen  at  La  Mortola.  In  many 
places  on  the  Riviera,  at  Grasse  for  instance,  the  Caper 
is  grown  in  quantities.  It  is  the  flower-buds,  and  not  the 
fruits,  which  are  eaten.  These  buds  are  gathered  in  summer 
and  preserved  in  vinegar.  Several  thousand  kilos  of  Cap- 
ers are  exported  \'earh'  from  Provence. 

Manv  a  visitor  to  La  Mortola  Gardens  will  pause  to 
admire  a  kind  of  Nightshade,  Solaiium  Melongena,  which 
is  called  "Aubergine"  in  France.  It  bears  fruits  the  size  and 
shape  of  a  hen's  ^^g\  hence  the  name  of  "Egg-plant"'  which 
is  applied  to  several  of  the  Solanums.  Seeing  these  fruits 
in  La  Mortola  Gardens  reminds  us  that  we  have  often 
noticed  them  before  in  Italian  markets.  The  purple-fruited 
Auberpfine  is  the  most  commonh-  a^rown  in  Itah' :  but 
^-ellow  and  white  varieties  are  also  cultivated.  These 
fruits,  when  cooked,  are  often  used  to  garnish  roast  joints 
on  Italian  tables,  and  also  served  up  as  vegetables.  In 
the  north  our  use  of  the  Solanaceous  fruits  is  limited  to 
Tomatoes  and  Chillies.  Nearh-  all  the  other  fruits  of 
this  family  are  poisonous,  and  cannot  be  used  as  food. 
Fortunateh'  we  have  no  experience  of  the  "Cannibals' 
Tomato"  which  ripens  on  a  shrubb^'  Nightshade  called 
Solanuni  aiithropophagorum .  According  to  travellers 
the  Fiji  Islanders  prepare  from  this  fruit  a    sauce  which 


siKi:i'r()S()Li:N.  —  dailra.  —  nicopiana.  77 


^P^ 


is  indispensable    to    a    cannibal    feast.     Small    plantations 

of   these    Solanuins    were    always    found    near    the  places 

where    the    cannibals    held    their   feasts.     The  aborescent 

Solan  ion     1 1  arszciviczii 

can  also  be  seen  at 

La  Mortola,  but  the 

fruits  of  this  plant    do 

not  o-row  bio-ger  than  cherries. 

The  Strcptosoloi  bushes, 
which  we  have  alread^•  admired 
at  the  Point  St  Louis,   stand  out 
conspicuoush-     in      Mortola     ^XJa'--: 
Gardens.     It    is    eas\-    to 
recognise  the  big,    bush}' 
J)ati(ras  as  Solanums,  even 
when  the\'  bear  huge,  blood-red 
tlowers,  for  the^"  resemble  our 
own  Thornapple.     Further  on 
a  Nicotiana  from  Columbia  ( ^\  Jli- 
o-andioides),  attracts  our  attention.    It 
is  much  taller  than  our  tobacco- 
\-ielding    X^icotiana.     and     bears 
pendant     panicles     of     gre\'ish- 
\ellow  tlowers  in  great  prolusion. 

Among     the     herbaceous 
plants  man\-  ot  the   I'mbelli-      ,^  v-^    ^ 
ferae    astonish    us    b\-    their  '^v^^\^'V- 
huge    size.     The^■  are 
even  bigger  than  the 
Angelica  of  our  gardens.   One  of  these,    (i  i'  ii„c,u<ria  maruiun,. 


78  GIANT  FENNEL. 


Ferula  communis,  the  Giant  Femiel,  has  an  interesting 
history  of  its  own.  The  plant  is  indigenous  to  the  southern 
countries  of  the  Mediterranean,  where  it  grows  thickly  in 
certain  spots,  generalh'  near  the  sea.  It  will  attain  a  height 
of  three  yards  in  quite  a  short  time,  spreading  its  huge, 
yellow  umbels  aboye  the  lineh-  dissected  leayes.  In 
ancient  times  walking  sticks  were  made  from  the  stem, 
and  as  the\-  are  yer^•  tough  the\'  were  used  for  chastising 
slaves  and  children.  These  were  rendered  more  effica- 
cious by  being  soaked  in  water  as  birch  rods  were  at 
one  time.  The  name  Ferula  is  derived  from  fcn'rc  to 
strike.  The  plant  was  sacred  to  Bacchus  and  the  Th\Tsus 
represented  a  Fennel  rod  wound  round  with  \'ine  and  Ivy, 
The  pith  is  ver^'  spongy  and  is  still  used  in  Sicily  as 
tinder.  A  spark  will  smoulder  for  a  long  while  in  the 
pith;  and  this  fact  gave  rise  to  the  stor^'  that  Prometheus 
brought  the  fire  which  he  stole  from  Zeus,  down  to  earth 
in  a  Fennel  stem.  Manuscripts  have  been  kept  in  hollow- 
ed out  Fennel  stems:  and  most  parts  of  the  plant  have 
been  used  medicinalh'.  It  is  not  surprising  then  that  this 
plant  was  valued  by  the  ancients.  Ferula  Scorodosma  of 
the  Persian  Steppes,  a  plant  six  feet  high  with  great  yellow 
umbels,  is  closely  related  to  the  Fennel.  It  forms  regu- 
lar thickets  in  the  regions  between  the  sea  of  Aral  and 
the  Persian  Gulf.  The  gum-resin  known  as  Asafoetida 
is  extracted  chietl\'  from  the  roots  of  this  plant.  It  smells 
like  a  mixture  of  garlic  and  balsam  of  Peru.  The  specific 
name  scorodosma  comes  from  scorodon,  garlic,  and  osma, 
smell.  When  sheep  feed  on  this  plant  in  Afghanistan 
their  milk  smells  strongly  of  garlic.     Ferula  Scorodosma 


|.\P.\Ni:SK  Mi:i)L. \RS.  79 

was  certainh  known  to  the  ancients,  thoui^li  it  nia\'  be 
ditticnlt  to  prove  that  it  corresponded  to  their  Siljihium 
and  tliat  Asatoetida  was  tlicir  "Laser"".  Silphiuni  was 
once  nuicli  used  in  medicine;  and  e\en  t()da\'  Asatoetida 
is  said  to  he  an  important  in<(redient  of  the  curr\-  witli 
wliicli  rice  is  served  in  hidia.  hi  France  soup-phites  were 
sometimes  rubbed  with  Asatoetida    to    fhivour   the    soup. 

The  frrex'-leaved,  evergreen  tree  Iiriohotria  or  Pho- 
liiiia  japoin'ca,  which  bears  the  "Japanese  medhirs'',  is 
so  common  in  the  o-ardens  of  the  Riviera  that  we  greet 
it  as  an  old  friend  at  La  Mortohi.  Tlie  sub-acid  tiavour 
of  tliese  fruits  is  tamiliar  to  most  of  us:  the^'  are  about 
the  size  of  plums,  and  the  better  sorts  when  quite  ripe 
are  ver^'  palatable.  The  tree  appears  to  be  indigenous 
to  China,  and  according  to  Rein  was  brought  to  Eng- 
land b\'  Sir  Joseph  Banks  in  l/**^?,  together  with  other 
useful  and  ornamental  plants.  It  is  now  to  be  met  with 
all  over  Itah'.   and  even  on   the  Lake  of  Geneva. 

Those  who  know  the  gardens  of  the  Riviera  must 
have  noticed  PJiotiiiia  sernilaia,  a  small  tree  related  to 
the  Eriobotria.  The  flat,  white  panicles  of  tlowers  shine 
out  among  the  big,  laurel-like  leaves.  At  a  distance 
the  tree  looks  like  our  tlowering  Elder,  and  at  the  first 
glance  one  would  hardh'  take   it  for  one  of  the  Rosaceae. 

Another  interesting  plant  which  one  ma\-  make  ac- 
cjuaintance  with  at  La  Mortola  is  the  Quillaja  sapoiiaria, 
a  stateh'  tree  with  small,  stiff  leaves,  also  belonging 
to  the  Rosaceae.  Its  bark,  which  we  obtain  trom  Chile 
under  the  name  of  Panama  wood,  is  rich  in  saponine, 
lathers    in    water    like    soap,    and    is    commonh'    used    as 


80  THE  CAROB. 


such  in  Chile.  With  us  it  is  used  for  washing  wool  and 
silk  and  also  for  cosmetic  purposes. 

The  Carob,  or  Locust  tree  (Ccratonia  siliqua)  is 
naturally  represented  in  La  Mortola  gardens,  for  it  is 
common  everywhere  on  the  Riviera.  This  picturesque 
tree  maA-  be  seen  here  to  the  best  advantage.  The 
ramification  resembles  that  of  the  oak;  but  the  Carob  is 
easily  distinguished  h\  its  pari-pinnate,  leathery  leaves. 
In  spring  the  pods  are  still  so  small  and  green  that 
thcA'  must  be  searched  for  among  the  twigs;  later  on 
they  become  larger  and  more  conspicuous  because  of 
their  brown  colour.  The  pods  are  sugarA'  when  ripe  and 
are  esteemed  a  great  luxury  hx  German  children  who 
purchase  them  at  fairs  under  the  name  of  "Johannis- 
brod".  Here,  however,  they  are  used  ever^'where  as  food 
for  horses.  A  sweet  juice,  tasting  like  honcA',  is  ex- 
pressed from  the  ripe  pods,  and  this  is  called  in  the 
East  "Keratameli". 

From  these  Carobs  also  the  KabA'les  prepare  their 
national  dish,  the  Tomina,  which  is  made  b\'  powdering 
the  pods  and  adding  groats  or  pea-flour  and  Olive  oil. 
The  seeds  are  removed.  iVccording  to  legend  St.  John 
lived  on  Carobs  in  the  desert;  hence  the  German  name 
of  the  tree,  "Johannisbrodbaum''.  The  ripe  seeds  inside 
the  husks  are  remarkable  for  the  uniformity  of  their 
size.  For  this  reason  thcA'  were  formerh'  used  in  weigh- 
ing gold  and  diamonds,  and  were  the  origin  of  the 
"Carat".  "Carat"  is  derived  from  "Keratia",  the  Greek 
name  for  this  fruit.  The  wild  Carob  tree  is  indigenous 
to    the   East    Mediterranean    region;    but    the    cultivated 


IRISES. 81 

tree,  which  produces  better  fruit,  appears  to  have  been 
spread  over  the  southern  countries  by  the  Arabs. 

A  charming  "rropaeolum  (  T.  petiiaphyllum)  is  seen 
climbing  in  ukuu'  places  in  the  Gardens.  It  is  a  South 
Brazilian  plant  and  has  scarlet,  long-spurred  ilovvers.  The 
small,  \ello\vish-red  petals  ma\'  be  discovered  between 
the  short,  green,  caUx  tips.  The  fruit  is  also  ver\' 
prettv :  it  consists  of  three  dark  violet,  one-seeded  "ber- 
ries" which  are  frequenth'  eaten  in  Brazil. 

Everx'where  within  the  precincts  of  the  garden  the 
ground  is  ga\-  with  the  man\--coloured  Spara.xis  tricolor 
and  o-raiidijlora,  an  Iris  from  the  Cape.  In  the  spring 
these  flowers  are  sent  in  quantities  to  the  North  together 
with  bright  Ixias,  vellow  Tritonias  and  golden,  sweet- 
scented  Freesias.  Almost  every  gradation  of  colour  is  to 
be  found  in  the  flowers  of  the  Sparaxis  between  scarlet, 
vermilion,  carmine,  blood-red  and  purple :  rose-red,  lilac 
and  white:  brown-red,  violet  and  even  black.  The 
flowers  are  also  often  chequered  and  marbled  or 
watered;  but  generalh'  \'ellowish  and  ornamented  with 
dark  spots  at  the  base  of  the  corollas.  Gav  also  are 
the  innumerable  Irises  which  grow  here  on  all  sides, 
flowers  whose  characteristic  shape  is  well  known  to  us 
in  the  Xortli.  l"he  genus  takes  its  name  from  the  rain- 
bow, ''Iris'',  because  all  colours  are  represented  in  the 
blossoms.  In  the  pictures  of  the  old  masters  the  Iris, 
together  with  white  Lilies  and  Roses,  figure  as  attributes 
of  the  Queen  of  Heaven.  Under  the  name  of  "Lih"  it 
formed  part  of  the  arms  of  the  Kings  of  France. 
Louis  XI  conferred  it  as  a  badge    on  Piero    de'    Medici 


82  THE  TEA  PLANT. 


and  thus  a  "red  lih"  entered  also  into  the  arms  of  the 
town  of  Florence. 

Many  attempts  have  been  made  to  grow  Tea  and 
Coffee  plants  at  La  Mortola.  but  neither  flourishes  and 
both  eventualh-  perish.  The  Tea  plant  can.  in  favourable 
conditions,  grow  to  a  height  of  fifteen  \'ards :  it  then 
looks  quite  like  a  Camellia,  and  in  fact  belongs,  as  does 
that  plant,  to  the  Ternstromiaceae.  Indeed  it  is  now 
actualh'  classed  in  the  same  genus  with  the  Camellia  as 
C.  Thea.  The  name  Camellia  has  an  almost  poetical 
sound,  perhaps  because  it  reminds  one  of  ''La  Dame  aux 
Camelias".  But  its  origin  is  prosaic  enough.  It  is  deri- 
ved from  Kamel  the  famih'  name  of  a  Jesuit  father, 
who  brought  the  Camellia  to  Spain  from  Alanilla  more 
than  150  vears  ago.  Linnaeus  named  the  plant  after 
this  same  George  Kamel,  who  also  called  himself  Ca- 
melus,  and  gave  it  the  specific  name  of  "japonica"  as 
it  had  originalh-  reached  Manilla  from  Japan.  The 
flowers  of  the  Tea  tree  are  ver\'  like  single  Camellias 
and  both  have  the  same  profusion  of  stamens.  As  long 
as  it  survives  at  La  Mortola  the  Tea  tree  blossoms  in 
September.  The  flowers,  which  are  porcelain-white  suf- 
fused with  pink,  have  not  much  perfume.  The  differ- 
ence between  the  various  sorts  of  tea  are  due  to  the 
age  of  the  leaves,  their  treatment,  and  the  season  at 
which  they  are  gathered.  According  to  the  Rev.  B.  C. 
Henry,  Camellia  TJiea  is  still  found  wild  in  large  quanti- 
ties in  the  interior  of  the  island  of  Hainon,  in  South  China. 

The  Arabian  Coffee  tree,  Coffea  arabica,  is  a  small, 
evergreen,    p^•ramidal    tree    between    five    and    six    ^•ards 


Jlli:  COFFEE  PLANT. 


83 


high.     The    dark   leaves    are    opposite 
and     decussate,     and    the    white, 
orange-scented  llowers  are  crowd- 
ed   into    the    axils    of   the    upper 
leaves.     The  dark  red  ber- 
ries which  are  tlie  size 
of    clierries,    contain    the  so- 
called  coffee  beans.  The  Coffee 
plant  takes  its  name  from  the 
hilh-  countr\-   in  Abys- 
sinia called  ''Kafa''. 
5  .^      The  Southern  pro- 
\inces  of  Upper  Ab^•s- 

tfci   •„-■-  ^^  '   sinia  are  generallv  consi- 

'    ^rrjBV,  '       '^^V*/"^    dered    to    be    the  home  of 

M<^^p^,-.  ^       the  Arabian  Coffee  plant:    re- 

centh',  however,  it  has  been  found 
wild  near  Lake  Mctoria  N^•anza  and 
in  West  Africa,  so  that  Central  Africa  ma\-  well  have 
been  its  original  home.  Africa  has  lately  given  us  a 
second  kind  of  Coffee  plant,  Coffca  libcrica.  This  tree 
grows  at  a  lower  elevation  than  the  other,  and  inhabits 
the  tropical  coast  districts.  It  is  more  sensiti\e  to 
changes  of  temperature  but  stands  the  sea  winds  better 
than  the  other  Coffee  plant.  The  cultivation  of  this 
tree  is  increasing  in  tropical  countries  on  account  of  the 
size  and  superior  aroma  of  its  berries. 

A  shrub  belonging  to  the  Celastraceae.  which  is 
culti\'ated  in  the  Coffee  gardens  of  Arabia  and  Abvs- 
sinia,  ma\'  be  seen  at  La  \h)rlola.     It   is  much  bra.nched. 


84 KHAT.  —  MATE.  —  KOLA-NUTS. 

bears  leathery,  lanceolate  leaves  and  is  called  Catha 
edulis.  This  is  the  ''Khat"  or  "Cafta'"  plant  whose  dried 
leaves  are  chewed  like  tobacco  bv  the  Arabs  and  also 
used  to  make  tea.  In  South  America  the  leaves  of  a 
plant  indigenous  to  Paraguav  and  Brazil,  Hex  para- 
guayeiisis,  are  used  as  tea.  It  is  one  of  the  Aquifoliaceae 
and  is  closeh'  related  to  the  "Khat".  The  leaves  are 
known  there  as  "Yerba''  or  "Mate".  It  is,  however,  one 
of  the  Sterculiaceae,  Sterculia  acuminata  or  Cola  acumi- 
nata, which  provides  the  African  Negro  with  his  "Kola- 
nuts''.  These  fruits  are  like  Spanish  chestnuts  and  have 
a  slighth'  bitter  llavour.  Thev  are  much  valued  b\'  the 
Negroes  for  thev  are  said  to  strengthen  the  bodv,  to 
make  bad  water  drinkable,  to  be  a  remed\-  for  all  sorts 
of  complaints,  to  appease  hunger  and  raise  the  spirits. 
As  a  matter  of  fact  the  Kola -nut  contains  both  Thein, 
like  tea  and  coffee,  and  Theobromin  like  cocoa.  The 
use  of  this  fruit  is  beginning  to  extend  to  England.  Jlex 
paraguavensis  and  Sterculia  acuminata  are  not  grown  at 
La  Mortola;  but  other  species  closeh'  resembling  them 
may  be  seen  there. 

In  La  Mortola  Gardens,  as  elsewhere  on  the  Western 
Riviera,  Camellias,  Rhododendrons  and  Azalias  do  not  seem 
to  nourish  as  well  as  other  plants.  The  few  specimens  to  be 
seen  are  not  nearly  as  line  and  well  developed  as  those  on 
the  Italian  Lakes.  The  calcareous  soil  which  prevails  on  this 
part  of  the  Riviera  does  not  suit  them,  and  moreover  they 
require  a  damper  atmosphere  during  the  growing  season. 

Fragrant  Balsams  were  an  important  article  of  trade 
in    ancient    times  and    in    the    Middle  Ages.     The    solid 


BALSAMS.  85 

stonix  used  b\'  the  Jews  as  incense  was  one  of  these. 
It  was  obtained  b\-  niakini^  incisions  in  the  bark  of  a 
small  tree,  S/vrax  oflicina/i's.  which  thrives  at  La  Mortola. 
In  foliai^e  the  tree  resembles  the  C^uince,  and  its  white, 
sweet-scented  flowers  with  their  golden  stamens  also 
open  in  Ma\-  and  June  like  those  of  the  Quince.  Storax 
is  now  obtained  from  se^■eral  species  of  Lic[uidambar, 
and  especialh'  from  the  Oriental  "Amber-tree",  /,.  on'cn- 
tcilis,  which  grows  in  the  provinces  of  Caria  and  L\xia 
in  Asia  Minor.  In  appearance  the  tree  resembles  a  Plane 
The  liquid  Balsam  obtained  from  the  "Amber-tree'"  is 
much  used  in  incense  and  ointments.  'V\\e  fragrant  INhrrh 
which  the  ancient  P2g^■ptians  used  in  embalming  and 
which  later  pla^■ed  a  part  in  the  religious  worship  of  the 
Greeks,  was  obtained,  as  Detler  and  Schweinturth  have 
prov^ed.  from  Bahduiodcudrou  abyssiiiictaii,  a  tree  about 
ten  ^'ards  high  which  grows  in  South  .Vrabia,  Er\'threa 
and  northern  Ab\ssinia.  This  plant  is  easih'  recognised 
h\  its  leaves  which  consist  of  one  large  leaflet  with  a 
smaller  one  on  each  side.  An  opaejue,  ^-ellow  sap  flows 
from  incisions  in  the  bark  and  when  dried  is  known  as 
M\rrh.  The  Boswellias,  which  \\e\6.  the  incense  known 
as  Olibanum,  grow  in  the  Xorth-east  of  tropical  xA.frica  and 
in  southern  India.  TheA'  belong  with  the  Balsamodendron 
to  the  Burceraceae  or  Balsam  trees.  The  Roman  Catholic 
Church  long  ago  gave  the  preference  to  the  gum-resin 
of  these  trees  as  M\rrh  was  difficult  to  obtain  in  sufficient 
quantities  and  was  not  so  well  adapted  for  use  as  incense. 
Indigofcra  f/'nclon'a.  which  gro\\s  in  Mortola  (Jardens, 
is    interesting    as    one    of    the    principal     indigo-vielding 


86  INDIGO. 

plants.  This  small,  leguminous  shrub  is  indigenous  to 
India,  but  is  now  grown  in  many  countries  within  the 
tropics  and  even  in  a  few  localities  near  Naples.  It 
bears  imparipinnate  leaves  and  white  or  pink  flowers. 
The  pretty  hidigofera  Dosua,  a  closely  related  plant 
from  the  Himalayas,  is  to  be  seen  in  our  gardens.  In 
autumn  the  whole  bush  is  covered  with  a  profusion  of 
drooping  pink  flower  clusters.  The  favourite  blue  dye 
known  as  Indigo  is  not  present  as  such  in  Indigofera  or 
any  other  plant.  But  when  the  plant  is  cut  and  the  air 
admitted  to  the  apparently  colourless  tissues  the  exposed 
surface  at  once  turns  blue.  The  technical  process  is  as 
follows:  the  plant  is  cut  up  and  allowed  to  ferment  in 
water.  The  liquid  turns  a  deep  yellowish  green  and  is 
poured  off.  It  is  then  stirred  and  beaten  so  that  it  may 
be  thoroughly  impregnated  with  the  Oxygen  of  the  air. 
In  this  manner  the  Indigo  is  precipitated  as  an  insoluble 
powder.  This  forms  the  purest  and  most  valuable  vege- 
table dye,  and  was  known  to  the  ancients  and  prized  by 
them  as  Indicum.  Bagdad  was  formerly,  as  London  is 
now,  the  chief  market  for  this  dye. 

The  familiar  outline  of  the  Conifers  is  prominent 
among  the  strange,  exotic  vegetation  of  La  Mortola 
Gardens.  Even  the  most  southern  species  are  easily 
recognised  as  are  also  the  fantastic  Araucarias,  which  are 
so  often  grown  in  our  gardens. 

We  frequently  see  Cycads  in  our  northern  green- 
houses, but  here  many  of  them  grow  in  the  open.  The 
uninitiated  will  be  surprised  to  learn  that  the  Cycads 
are  classed  next  to  the  Conifers.     For   the  Cycad,    with 


llli:  iJAMliOO.  87 


its  unbranched  stem  and  terminal  rosette  of  large 
pinnate  leaves,  is  far  more  like  a  Palm.  This  outward 
resemblance,  which  is  their  onl\-  ]x)int  in  common,  has 
led  to  L^cad  leaxes  being  called  Palm  fronds,  and  used 
at  funerals  as  such.  This  is  however  a  misconception. 
For  according  to  tradition  Palm  fronds,  and  not  C\'cad 
leaves,  should  be  laid  on  coffins;  Palms  fronds  were 
carried  b\'  Christian  mart\rs,  and  are  represented  on  the 
tombs  in  the  Catacombs. 

We  have  alread\'  made  acquaintance  with  Palms  at 
Bordighera.  but  the  innumerable  Bamboos,  which  attain  a 
great  size  in  Mortola  Gardens,  are  less  familiar.  Those 
who  are  accustomed  to  think  of  grasses  as  lowly  meadow 
herbs  will  be  surprised  to  find  that  the  common  Bamboo 
(Bamhiisa  ariindiiiacea),  which  can  attain  a  height  of 
100  feet,  is  one  of  these.  In  our  own  wild  reed  we  have 
a  grass  of  some  height.  The  Bamboos  resemble  our 
reed,  but  while  the  latter  is  of  verv  little  use  to  us, 
there  is  hardh'  a  plant  in  hot  countries  which  is  applied 
to  such  a  variety  of  purposes  as  is  the  common  Bamboo. 
The  voung  shoots  from  the  stock  are  a  tast^'  vegetable. 
The  Chinese  like  them  also  prepared  as  a  sweetmeat 
which  is  often  mixed  with  ginger.  Barriers,  fences  and 
all  sorts  of  wattle-work  are  made  from  the  younger 
stems,  and  rulers,  measuring-rods,  prettily  woven  baskets, 
wallets  and  cases  from  the  split  stems.  Mats,  rain-cloaks 
and  hats  are  made  from  the  leaves,  which  are  also  used 
in  packing  tea.  ^'oung  leaves  ser\e  as  food  for  cattle. 
From  the  fibres  ot  the  stem  the  Chinese  make  a  much- 
\alued  paper  which  we  use  in  art  printing.    Both  frame 


THE  BAMBOO. 


and  paper  of  the  Chinese  fans  consist  entirely  of  Bamboo. 
In  spite  of  their  hght  weight  the  hollow  stems  have 
remarkable  strength  and  are  used  for  constructions  which 
require  great  durability.  The  whole  surface  of  the  stems 
is  silicious,  which  accounts  for  their  lasting  so  long  both 
above  and  under  ground.  And  for  this  reason  the\'  are 
often  used  as  water-pipes  and  gutters  after  the  partiti- 
ons have  been  removed.  On  the  other  hand  these 
partitions  permit  of  the  single  joints  of  the  stem  being 
used  as  buckets  and  flower-pots.  Bridges,  rafts,  beds, 
chairs,  tables,  carrying-poles,  rakes  and  harrows  are  all 
made  of  Bamboo.  Mattresses  and  furniture  are  stuffed 
with  its  fibres.  Bamboo  ladders  are  in  special  favour. 
Vessels  for  food  and  drink,  combs  and  even  surgical 
instruments  are  made  from  it.  And.  as  though  to  prove 
that  the  Bamboo  can  be  put  to  ever^-  possible  use,  the 
inhabitants  of  Borneo  and  Sumatra  make  lamps  and 
candles  from  it.  In  the  former  the^'  burn  Damara  resin, 
while  the  latter  are  made  b\-  tillinp-  stems  with  resin 
when  both  burn  down  together.  Bamboo  sticks  are 
familiar  to  most  of  us:  they  are  hollow,  jointed  shoots 
from  the  stock.  The  slender  stems  of  the  East  Indian 
Rattan  Palm  {Calaiuiis  Rotang)^  after  their  prickh'  outer 
covering  has  been  removed,  are  often  sold  as  Bamboos. 
But  the  real  trade  name  for  the  Rattan  cane  is  "Spanish 
Cane".  The  Bamboo  supplies  useful  material  for  weapons: 
and  lances  and  javelins  of  unsurpassed  lightness  and 
strength  are  made  from  it.  The  Chinese  soldier  carries 
a  Bamboo  sunshade  covered  with  varnished  mulberry- 
paper.     On    the  other  hand  the  Bamboo  contributes  not 


Tin:  i;.\.MHO(). 


89 


a  little  to  the  enjovment  of  life  hv  its  adaptabilit^'  for 
making  musical  instruments,  for  from  the  hollow  inter- 
nodes  of  the  stem  ilutes,  clarionets  and  sounding-boards 
arc  made.  Even  strings  are  made  of  Bamboo.  Indeed 
C.  Schroter  tells  us  that  the  ancient  Chinese  constructed 
a  kind  of  telephone  out  of  Bamboo  hv  which  tl^n- 
connected  their  outposts.  The  hollows  in  \oung  stems 
generalh'  contain  clear  water,  with  which  travellers  in 
India  and  in  the  mountains  of  Java  cjuench  their  thirst. 
The  Bamboo  plant  seldom  tlowers :  but  when  this  occurs 
there  is  a  rich  harvest  of  grain,  The  seeds  are  eaten 
like  rice,  or  'made  into  bread,  and  on  more  than  one 
occasion,  as  for  instance  in  1812,  a  famine  has  been 
averted  by  the  timely  flowering  of  the  Bamboos.  So 
~-^,  that  Wallace,  one  of  the  authorities 
best  acquainted  with  the  tropics,  might 
^'  justly  declare  that  the  Bamboo  is  an 
invaluable  product  of  those  regions.  The 
Chinese  and  Japanese,  and  the  inhabitants 

of  India    and    the 


K  r--^ 


Indian    Archi- 
pelago      have 
learnt  howto  util- 
ise the  Bamboo 

p\ — ^ 


Cist  lis  moiisjieliensis. 


90  TABASHIR. 


to  the  fullest  extent.  In  China  whole  villages  are  built 
of  Bamboo.  The  effect  produced  by  a  fire  in  one  of 
these  villages  is  said  to  be  very  curious.  For  the  air 
imprisoned  in  the  internodes  of  the  Bamboo  stems 
becomes  heated  and  they  explode  with  loud  reports.  At  a 
distance  this  sounds  like  cannonading,  and  in  this  noise 
the  natives  of  the  Molluccas  fancy  that  they  hear 
distinctly  "Bamboo,  Bamboo". 

It  is  natural  that  primitive  peoples  should  have 
attributed  hidden  healing  powers  to  a  plant  which  was 
of  such  universal  utility.  And  accordingly  the  Chinese 
use  root-stocks,  young  shoots,  the  sap,  the  seeds  and 
certain  excrescences  of  the  Bamboo  as  medicaments. 
A  curious  formation,  which  is  found  in  the  hollow  inter- 
nodes of  the  stem  and  is  called  "Tabashir",  was  much 
renowned  as  a  remed^^  Roman  doctors  at  the  time 
of  the  Empire  used  it  much,  reiving  on  the  reputation 
it  had  acquired  in  the  East.  But  in  the  tenth  and 
eleventh  centuries  Tabashir  became  universallv  known 
through  the  Arabian  doctors,  and  it  is  still  considered 
all  over  the  East  as  a  specially  efiicacious  remedy. 
When  first  found  in  the  Bamboo  stem  Tabashir  is  a 
dirtv-white,  brown,  or  black  lump,  but  under  heat  it  turns 
white  and  is  converted  into  a  substance  resembling 
chalcedonv.  This  substance  sometimes  looks  white  and 
opaque,  sometimes  blueish-white,  translucent  and  irides- 
cent. Tabashir  is  in  realitv  nothing  more  than  common 
silica  discoloured  b^'  some  vegetable  substance  from 
which  it  is  cleansed  bv  heating.  The  patient  might 
just    as   well  swallow  pure    sand  instead  of  the  Tabashir 


TIIK  BAMIiOO.  91 

which  he  has  to  pa\-  so  high  a  price  for  in  the  Bazaars. 
Given  the  necessar\'    faith    tlie    results   should    be  equal  I 

\'er\-  instructive  observations  ma\'  be  made  on  the 
\oung,  conelike  shoots  of  the  Bamboo  when  thev  are 
pushing  up  through  the  earth  in  spring.  The\'  are  as 
thick  as  a  man's  arm,  and  closeh-  covered  with  sheath- 
like leaves.  Water  is  exuded  between  these  sheaths,  bv 
which  means  the  surrounding  earth  is  moistened  and 
softened,  and  the^•  develop  so  rapidh'  that  one  is  al- 
most able  to  observe  the  process  with  the  naked  ere. 
vSo  that  the  sa\ing  becomes  a  realitv  —  and  aou  can 
see  grass  grow !  Under  specialh-  favourable  circum- 
stances a  Bamboo  shoot  will  grow  half  a  vard  in  one 
dav,  thus  attaining  its  full  height  of  65  feet,  or  more,  in 
a  very  short  time.  A  luxuriant  thicket  of  Bamboos  is 
one  of  the  most  remarkable  sights  in  the  \  egetable  World ; 
but  these  plants  must  be  seen  in  the  tropics  to  realise 
their  importance  as  a  feature  in  the  landscape. 

According  to  the  geographer  Richter's  valuable  infor- 
mation and  the  no  less  important  researches  of  the  botanist 
Ferdinand  Cohn,  it  seems  highly  probable  that  the  sub- 
stance called  hv  the  ancients  "Saccharum",  was  not  Cane 
Sugar  but  Tabashir.  Bopp  tells  us  that  the  Sanscrit 
root  "carkara"  meant,  not  anything  sweet,  but  something 
hard  and  brittle.  In  ancient  India  Tabashir  was  known 
as  "Sakkar  Nambu"  or  Bamboo  Stone.  When  the  crys- 
talline Cane  Sugar  was  introduced  later  the  Arabs 
transferred  this  word  to  it  because  of  its  resemblance  to 
Tabashir.  Edmund  O.  von  Lippmann,  in  his  most 
thorough  and  exhaustive  "Geschichte  des  Zuckers",  also 

4 


92 THE  SUGAR  CANE. 

comes  to  the  conclusion  that  the  "Saccharon"  of  the 
ancient  world  could  not  have  been  our  sugar.  He  shows 
that  solid  sugar  was  not  known,  even  in  India,  until 
some  time  between  the  third  and  sixth  centuries  A.  D. 
The  Sugar  Cane  (Sacchariun  ofjiciiiariim)  is  verv 
like  our  reed,  and,  like  it,  also  belongs  to  the  Grasses. 
Fine  specimens  ma^'  be  seen  in  the  Gardens  of  La  Mor- 
tola.  The  Sugrar  Cane  has  been  cultivated  from  time 
immemorial,  and  as  it  has  been  entirely  propagated  by 
off-shoots  it  has  almost  lost  the  power  of  producing 
seeds.  Indeed  until  a  short  time  ago  it  was  taken  for 
granted  that  the  Sugar  Cane  never  fruited ;  careful 
observations,  however,  particularly  in  Java,  have  shown 
that  this  sterility  is  not  absolute.  The  home  of  the 
Sugar  Cane  is  probably  in  Bengal,  that  province  which 
for  long  ages  has  been  called  the  '"Garden  of  India"  on 
account  of  its  inexhaustible  fertility.  Towards  the  close 
of  the  third  centur\'  the  Sugar  Cane  reached  China  from 
India,  and  two  hundred  years  later  had  travelled  west- 
ward to  Gondisapur.  This  town  lay  on  the  river  Karun, 
whose  divided  waters  flowed  part  into  the  Tigris  and 
part  into  the  north  of  the  Persian  Gulf.  The  Nestorians 
fled  thither  when  the  Council  of  Ephesus  in  431  A.  D. 
pronounced  their  teaching  to  be  heretical.  TheA'  carried 
to  the  East  the  germs  of  classical  culture  and  of  scientific 
medicine,  and  particularly  the  elements  of  chemistry. 
As  a  consequence  of  the  relations  of  Gondisapur  with 
India  the  influence  of  Indian  medical  lore  was  felt  there, 
and  a  school  arose  which  not  onh'  adopted  the  Greek 
natural  sciences  and    medicine    but    also    improved    upon 


Till-:  sue  JAR  CANi:.  93 


them  considerabh'.  Here,  then,  the  art  of  refining-  sugar 
was  apparanth'  discovered,  and  the  word  "Rand"'  intro- 
duced to  describe  the  refined  sugar. 

The  Arabs  brought  the  Sugar  Cane  to  Spain  in  the 
eipfhth  centur\-,  and  to  Sicih'  in  the  ninth.  Confectioners 
existed  in  N'enice  as  earh'  as  1130,  The  tliree  most 
important  Sugar-producing  countries  in  the  Middle  -:Vges 
were  S\ria,  EgApt  and  C\prus«  But  their  importance 
vanished  in  14^)8  when  \^asco  de  Gama  discovered  the 
direct  route  to  India  round  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and 
the  trade  in  Indian  sugar  consequenth'  fell  to  the  Portugese. 
This  completeh'  broke  the  political  and  commercial  supre- 
macy of  \^enice  and  her  power  vanished  for  ever.  The 
Atlantic  Ocean  instead  of  the  Mediterranean  Sea,  now 
became  the  route  for  the  commerce  of  the  world.  In  1580 
the  production  of  sugar  began  to  decline  in  wSicih'  as  she 
could  no  longer  hold  her  own  against  the  competition  from 
over  the  sea.  For  about  this  time  American  sugar,  parti- 
cularh'  the  BraziUan,  was  coming  into  use  all  over  the 
world  and  had  reached  Palermo.  The  consumption  of 
sugar  increased  enormoush'  in  Europe,  and,  according  to 
Lippmann,  in  the  ^'ear  1600  even  German\'  had  several 
sugar  refineries.  But  after  the  Thirt\'  Years"  War  onh' 
those  in  Hamburg  seem  to  have  remained.  Under  Frederic 
the  Great  numerous  sugar  refineries  were  established  in 
Prussia  and  were  fostered  bv  protective  duties. 

In  1747  the  Chemist  Markgraf  succeeded  in  extrac- 
ting sugar  from  beetroots.  But  the  manufacture  of  this 
product  did  not  extend,  chiefh'  because  the  supph-  of 
saccharine  beets  was  limited.      Achard  was    the    first    to 

4* 


94 CACTI. 

remedy  this  want  on  his  property  near  Berhn  in  1786. 
And  it  was  he  who,  under  the  patronage  of  Frederic 
William  the  Third,  started  the  first  real  beet-sugar  manu- 
factur^-  at  Cunern  in  Silesia  in  1801.  Other  manufacturies 
then  followed  in  Prussia  and  France,  where  Delessert 
was  chiefly  instrumental  in  perfecting  the  process  of 
manufacture.  But  on  the  removal  of  the  Continental 
restrictions  most  of  these  beet-sugar  factories  both  in 
Germany  and  France  failed  again,  and  the  new  impulse 
and  eventual  prosperit}^  of  the  industry  date  from 
about  1820. 

The  Palazzo  Orengo  is  surrounded  hv  fantastic  forms 
of  vegetation;  pillar-like  Opuntias,  candelabrum-like 
Euphorbias  resembling  Cacti,  Yuccas  and  Fourcroyas, 
Aloes  and  Agaves.  These  rigid  plants  raise  their  stems 
defiantly  above  the  rest,  or,  when  growing  close  to  the 
ground,  force  their  neighbours  aside  with  their  huge  ro- 
settes of  leaves.  Ag'ave  Salmiaua  has  leaves  which 
attain  a  length  of  over  two  yards.  Numerous  other 
Agaves  send  up  from  the  middle  of  their  rosettes 
flowering  stems  resembling  a  gigantic  Asparagus.  The 
Fourcroyas  produce  in  the  course  of  a  few  weeks  an 
incredible  number  of  greenish -white  flowers  on  their 
scapes  which  are  a  yard  high.  On  a  wall  east  of  the 
house  grows  a  small  Opuntia  (O.  tiaiicata)  armed  with 
long,  white  spines.  These  are  enveloped  in  a  delicate 
sheath  to  which  they  owe  their  colour.  They  protect  the 
plant  effectively  from  the  attacks  of  animals.  And  this 
protection  is  very  necessary  in  the  parched  districts  ot 
Mexico  which  these  plants    inhabit,    and    where    animals 


SUCCULENT  PLANTS. 


'J5 


are  often  at  a  loss  for  vegetable  food.  Plants  wliose 
leaves  have  turned  into  thorns  are  very  common  in  these 
regions.  The\'  have  green  stems  which  perform  the 
function  of  the  leaves,  and  these  are  often  swollen  to 
act  as  a  reser\oir.  For  water  must  be  stored  as  a  pro- 
vision against  drought.  Horses,  when  pressed  b\-  hunger 
and  thirst,  strike  off  the  thorns  of  these  plants  with 
their  hoofs.  They  are  then  able  to  get  at  the  juicy  sub- 
stance without  injury  to  themselves;  but  cattle  are  often 
badh'  hurt  in  the  attempt.  Mortola  Gardens  are  remark- 
abl\-  rich  in  these  succulent  plants.  Of  the  known  spe- 
cies of  Aloes  about  half   (sevent\)    are    cultivated    here : 

o  sixt\'  different  Agaves.    Most 

ese    blossom    in    spring,    while 

actus  and  Opuntia  do  not  open 

their    silk\-    flowers    till    June. 

We    could    wish   that  man^■  of 

the     plants     which     adorn    the 

rden  in  the  summer  with  their 

ga\'  colours  might  blossom  at 

an  earlier  season.     For  the 

^     magnificent  Er\'thrinas,  He- 

dichiums,    Musas,  Strelitzias 

and     Stcrculia    cwen'fo/ia,     the 

e"  of  Australia,   all   llower  here 

there  is  no  one  to  admire  their 

eaut\'.    It  would  indeed  be   worth  while  to 

pa\-   a  ^■isit  to  La  IVIortola  at  this  season? 

A  ver\-  curious  tree,  which  attracts  the 

Cisius   ■   sahii/oiriis.       attention    of    most   visitors    to    the 


96  LA  MORTOLA. 


garden,  grows  close  to  the  house.  It  bears  brownish- 
yellow  flowers  which  rise  from  the  rosettes  of  leaves  like 
great  bottle-brushes.  This  tree,  Banksia  marcesseris,  is 
one  of  the  Proteaceae  and  a  native  of  Australia,  It  would 
be  hard  to  find  anywhere  in  Europe  another  specimen 
so  well  developed.  Close  to  this  tree  hangs  an  ancient 
Japanese  bell  which  was  once  tolled  in  honour  of  Kwangai, 
the  Buddhist  Goddess  of  Mercv. 

What  a  wonderful  view  of  the  coast  does  the  Palazzo 
Orengo    command!     The    spot    seems  almost  too  fair   to 
sojourn   in.      For    what   more    would    be    left  ^to    desire  ? 
What  greater  charm  could    one    look    forward    to  ?     The 
views  which  delight  the  spectator  are  framed  in  luxuriant 
green    and    the    gay    colours  of  many  flowers.     The  eve 
ranges  over  the    rugged   shore  and  dreamily  follows    the 
deep  ravine  in  which  the  garden  seems  to    stretch  awa}' 
towards  the  mountains.   A  stately  Palm  lends  enchantment 
to    the    scene.     To  the  east    is  a   dark  screen  of  foliage, 
but    the    flower^'    Pergola   soon    leads    one     to    the    open 
ridge.     The  day  is  declining  and  Old  Bordighera  begins 
to  glow  in  the  rosy  evening  light.    W'hat  a  prospect  lies 
before  us !    I  knew  a  frail  maiden  —   "a  tender  blossom 
nipped  before  it  blew"  —  who  sought  a  refuge  from  death 
at  Mentone.     To  the  last  this  golden  dream  was  present 
to  her  fevered  sleep.     It  seemed  a  prophetic  vision  of  a 
fairer  world.    In  her  northern  home  the  dying  girl  stretched 
her  arms  out  longingly  towards  this  imaged  scene  and  a 
happy  smile  lit  up  her  pale  features. 

This  Pergola,  through  which  we  stroll,  is  grown  over 
with  an  almost  endless  variety  of  creepers :    This  coUec- 


LA    MOR'l'OLA.  97 


tion  must  surely  be  unique !  A  thousand  flowers  perfume 
the  evening  air.  The  Banksia  Rose  is  here  in  perfect 
loveliness.  Everywhere  its  daint\-  clusters  of  semi-double 
yellow  or  white  flowers  gleam  among  their  unarmed 
foliage.  The  Riviera  ma^'  be  proud  of  this  beautiful  rose 
which  will  not  grow  in  the  open  at  home.  Xor  does  it 
succeed  well  in  greenhouses.  The  same  may  be  said  of 
the  Bougainvillea,  that  magniticent  tropical  liana  which 
is  so  much  at  home  on  this  part  of  the  Riviera. 

Meanwhile  the  sun  has  set  and  faint  shades  flit  over 
the  coast.  Old  Bordisfhera  looks  colourless  and  lifeless; 
it  is  set  in  a  frame  of  white  roses.  Foliage  and  bright 
flowers  grow  indistinct  in  the  twilight.  Only  the  Cypresses 
stand  out  from  the  dark  mass  against  the  luminous  evening 
sky  —  those  ancient  trees  bordering  with  serried  rank 
the  path  which  leads  from  the  upper  part  of  the  garden 
down  towards  the  sea.  Has  this  dark  tree,  which  rises 
so  straight  and  sternh'  towards  the  sky,  really  a  gloomy 
appearance  ;  or  does  it  arouse  sad  sentiments  in  us  because 
it  has  ever  been  a  s\'mbol  of  mourning  and  is  so  often 
seen  among  the  tombs?  These  sombre  trees  maA'  perhaps 
be  appropriate  to  the  landscape  here,  if  it  is  true  that 
"La  Mortola"  is  so  called  from  an  ancient  cemeter\'.  The 
C\presses  alone  preserve  the  memorA'  of  these  resting 
places,  now  made  bright  bA'  flower-beds  and  luxuriant 
vegetation. 

CHAPTER  Vn. 

Above  La  Mortola  Gardens  is  the  Strada  Nazionale 
leading    to  Mentone.      It    rises,    making    a  sharp  bend  in 


98        STRADA  NAZIONALE  NEAR  MORTOLA.      

the  ravine,  to  the  Croce  della  Mortola,  where  it  begins 
to  fall  gradually.  Most  beautiful  is  this  road  which  follows 
the  slope  of  the  mountain  in  its  wide  curve.  In  spite  of 
the  approaching  dusk  I  gathered  a  bunch  of  jMoricandia 
arvejisis  (Fig.  p.  295)  from  the  road-side.  This  is  a  noted 
habitat  for  this  pretty  Crucifer  with  its  violet  coloured 
flowers.  It  grows  abundanth'  between  Alentone  and  Venti- 
miglia,  also  along  the  Corniche,  but  disappears  suddenly 
and  occurs  again,  as  a  rarity  only,  in  a  few  other  local- 
ities of  southern  France.  Then  I  also  recognised  b^'  its 
dark  inflorescence  the  Red  \"alerian  (Centranthiis  Ruber, 
Fig.  p.  71)  which  we  like  to  grow  in  our  gardens.  Aly 
attention  was  arrested  b^-  Coriaria  mxrtifolia  (Fig.  p.  125) 
which  covers  the  slope  near  the  Croce  della  Mortola  in 
great  profusion.  The  plant  was  in  full  bloom.  The  small 
flowers  cannot  be  considered  beautiful:  they  are  borne  in 
bunches,  and  are  all  green  excepting  the  red  styles.  ^  et 
the  structure  of  the  whole  flower  is  so  peculiar  that  it  was 
found  necessary  to  constitute  a  family,  Coriariaceae,  for 
this  one  genus.  This  plant  contains  so  much  tannin  that 
it  is  used  for  tanning  and  for  making  a  black  d^'e•,  it  is 
poisonous  and  therefore  avoided  by  animals.  It  affects 
human  beings  as  alcohol  does,  so  that  the  peasants  of  the 
Riviera  call  it  by  transference,  "embriaghi"  —  which 
means  '"intoxicated". 

Below  the  village  of  Grimaldi  the  road  passes  through 
an  Olive  grove,  and  now  it  is  quite  dark  in  the  shadow 
of  the  trees.  An  old  tower  on  the  hill  can  still  be 
distinguished,  and  near  it  a  modern  castle  in  English- 
Gothic    style.      Formerly    this    belonged    to    Dr.  Bennet, 


PLANTS   ClIARACrEKlSTIC    OF    ITAIA'.          W 


whose  name  was  well  known  on  the  Kiviera.  Alter  his 
death  others  built  this  Gothic  house  in  the  garden  which 
he  created.  We  now  reach  the  Italian  "Dogana''.  Night 
is  drawing  on  and  in  Mentone  lights  are  beginning  to 
appear  in  the  houses  and  the  streets.  The  strand  is  soon 
picked  out  with  ]-)oints  of  light,  fringing  the  sea  like  a 
necklace  of  fier\-  pearls.  The  lines  of  the  "'Mignonlied" 
passed  through  nn-  mind,  and  the  rlnthmic  washing  of 
the  waves  seemed  to  recall  the  music  of  Beethoven's  beau- 
tiful accompaniment.  It  is  significant  that  those  plants, 
which  in  this  song  of  Goethe's  conjure  up  in  our  minds 
such  vivid  pictures  of  Itah'.  are  not  indigenous  in  that 
land,  which  has  been  cultivated  for  over  two  thousand 
years.  The^-  came  from  the  East,  like  all  the  great  ideas 
on  which  our  culture  is  founded,  and  were  developed  and 
improved  on  this  classic  soil.  Itah'  received  the  Lemon 
and  Oranpfe  from  the  Semites,  who  in  their  turn  had  obtained 
them  from  India.  The  Olive,  the  Fig,  the  \'ine  and  the 
Palm  were  grown  bv  the  Semites  long  before  their  culti- 
vation penetrated  to  the  West.  The  Laurel  and  Myrtle 
indeed  are  indigenous  in  Itah',  but  their  use  for  cerem.on- 
ial  purposes  came  across  the  Mediterranean  from  the  East. 
The  home  of  the  Cvpress  is  not  in  Itah'  but  in  the  (jreck 
archipelago,  northern  Persia,  Cilicia  and  Lebanon.  And 
it  has  even  been  questioned,  though  in  tliis  case  without 
reason,  whether  the  "L'mbrella  Pine",  which  almost  seems 
to  have  taken  the  cloud-cap  of  \'esuvius  as  its  model, 
is  an  Italian  plant.  As  though  the  great  impulse  given 
to  horticulture  bv  the  discoverv  of  America  were  also 
destined  to  leave   its  imprint  upon  Italian   soil,  the  Agave 


100     INTRODUCTION  OF  AGAVE  AND  OPUNTIA. 

and  Opuntias  have  been  established  here.  Thus  the  spinv, 
glaucous  Agaves  and  the  prickh-,  vivid-green  Opuntias, 
which  are  so  well  adapted  to  the  rock^•  coast  of  Italy 
that  the^•  seem  to  have  been  here  from  time  immemorial, 
were  realh'  not  introduced  from  America  until  the  sixteenth 
centur^^  It  would  be  difficult  to  picture  Capri  without 
the  "Fichi  d'India"  whose  flattened  branches  grow  over 
all  the  walls  in  strange,  contorted  shapes  —  and  vet  they 
are  comparativeh-  recent,  introductioas.  The  Agaves  and 
Opuntias  in  the  foreground  of  Preller's  illustrations  to 
the  Odyssey  are  therefore  an  anachronism.  This  however 
does  not  detract  from  the  beauty  of  these  pictures,  though 
one  cannot  escape  a  certain  feeling  of  unfamiliarit^■  when 
looking  at  them.  One's  sense  of  historic  accuracy  is 
violated ;  nevertheless  these  masterh'  works  of  art  appeal 
strongh'  to  one's  artistic  instinct  and  imagination. 

What  was  the  Riviera  like  before  the  Olive  was 
cultivated,  when  there  were  no  Palms  or  C^'presses  and 
no  fragrant  Agrumi  perfumed  the  air?  Evergreen 
bushes  clothed  the  slopes  and  thick  pine  woods  crowned 
the  heights.  The  whole  aspect  of  the  vegetation  must 
have  been  totalh'  different.  For  while  it  was  characterised 
by  greater  uniformity  and  the  grouping  of  masses,  the 
landscape,  now  considered  so  typically  Italian,  owes  its 
character  to  the  great  variet}-  of  conspicuous  plants  and 
their  effective  distribution. 

In  the  time  of  Alexander  the  Great  —  in  the  fourth 
century  B.  C.  —  the  Greeks  considered  Italy  to  be  quite 
a  primitive  land  compared  with  their  own  countr^'  and 
the  Levant.     But  Marcus  Terentius  \^arro    likened    it   in 


GARAXAN. UJl 

tlie  first  centur\  B.  C  to  a  vast  garden.  Plin\-  complains 
a  hundred  years  later  of  the  luxur}-,  the  effects  of  which 
were  felt  even  in  horticulture,  ^>g•etables  had  attained 
such  dimensions  as  to  be  tjuite  be\ond  the  reach  of  the 
poor.  I  le  i|U()tes  as  an  instance  the  Asparagus,  three 
of  which  weighed  a  Roman  pound  (ca.  M){)  grammes). 
Life  in  this  land,  which  had  become  transformed  into  a 
luxuriant  garden  and  in  which  all  sorts  of  Eastern  plants 
flourished,  could  not  but  have  a  demoralising  effect  upon 
the  people.  And  indeed  the  shadows  gradualh'  deepened 
on  this  too  luxurious  civilisation  which  alread\'  bore  within 
it  the  germs  of  destruction. 

As  I  approached  Mentone  the  IVIistral  began  to 
blow  and  raised  great  clouds  of  dust  from  the 
road.  In  Garavan,  under  the  shelter  of  the  old 
town,  it  was,  however,  quite  calm,  so  that  it  was 
possible  to  sit  out  in  the  pleasant  gardens  of  the 
Hotel  D'ltalie  till  late  into  the  evening.  Garavan  is 
effectivelv  sheltered  from  the  west  wind  hv  the  ridge 
on  which  Old  Mentone  lies  and  b\'  its  close -built 
houses;  and  for  this  reason  it  is  frequented  b}'  invalids. 
For  some  time  past  Garavan  . 

has  had  a  station    of   its 
own     wliich    facilitates 
traffic  almost  too  nuich, 
especialh'     for      those 
winter    visitors  who    risk 
their  alread\' impaired  health 
b\-     the     injurious     excitement 

of      gambling      at      Alonte      Carlo.  Cladopkora  laetcrirens 


102 ECONOMIC  PLANTS. 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Civilised  man  owes  nearh'  all  the  most  important 
stimulants  and  luxuries  derived  from  the  \"egetable  World 
to  primitive  peoples.  Since  instinct  has  been  blunted  in 
him  by  civilisation  he  can  no  longer  understand  the 
motives  which  guided  the  primitive  races  in  their  choice 
of  food.  He  is  astonished  to  learn  from  chemistrA'  that 
the  Tea  of  the  Chinese,  tlie  Mate  of  the  Brazilians,  the 
Coffee  and  Khat  of  the  Arabs,  the  Cocoa  of  the  Astecs 
and  the  Kola-nut  of  the  Negroes  all  contain  the  same 
stimulating  principle.  We  are  able  to  see  in  La  Mortola 
Gardens  how  outwardh'  different  are  all  these  plants 
which  A'et  contain  practicalh'  the  same  properties.  But 
it  would  be  hard  to  discover,  even  hv  the  most  careful 
observation,  an^'  external  character  common  to  them 
all.  Primitive  men  were,  however,  not  guided  by  any 
outward  resemblance,  but  learnt  rather  as  do  the  \\ild 
animals  who  roam  in  search  of  their  food  through  woods 
and  over  plains.  ThcA'  were  equally  unconscious  of  the 
reason  for  their  selection. 

Most  of  our  economic  plants,  having  been  adopted 
from  primitive  man  so  long  ago,  possess  an  interesting 
history. 

The  use  of  tea  as  a  beverage  is  so  old  in  China 
that  a  book,  "Rh\'a",  written  in  the  twelfth  century, 
mentions  it  as  alread^'  long  known. 

Tea  drinking  first  began  to  spread  in  Europe  in 
1630,  under  the  influence  of  the  Dutch  East  India  Com- 
pany-, and  also  in  consequence  of  the  recommendations  of 
a    few    Dutch    doctors.     Tea    was    said   to    increase  the 


INTRODUCTION   OF   TEA    IX)  ELKOPi:.        1(k3 


vital  cncrg\-,  to  strengthen  the  memorA",  stimulate  the 
faculties  and  to  thoroughh-  purih'  the  blood.  Those 
sickening  with  fever  were  advised  to  drink  off  from  fort\' 
to  fiftv  cups  of  tea  one  after  another.  In  the  interesting 
work  of  Le  Grand  d"Auss^ .  which  lirst  appeared  in  \7^2, 
and  which  relates  the  histor\-  of  the  private  life  of  the 
French  ("Ilistoire  de  la  \'ie  Privee  des  Francais")  we 
read  that  tea  was  known  in  Paris  in  1636  and  soon 
became  \ery  popular  because--  the  Chancellor  Seguier 
gave  it  his  patronage.  It  seems  that  a  few  people  in 
Paris  were  so  misguided  as  to  smoke  tea  in  the  same 
wa^'  as  tobacco,  and  Dr.  Blign\-  boasts  that  he  even 
made  a  preserve  from  it.  a  "destilliertes  Wasser",  and 
two  kinds  of  s^•rup.  In  1700  tea  drinking  was  already 
universal  in  England  and  tea  was  taxed.  Germanv  owes 
the  introduction  of  tea  to  the  Dutch  doctors  of  the 
Great  Elector.  According  to  documents  published  hv 
Fliickiger,  a  handful  of  tea  bought  at  the  Apothecaries 
of  the  town  of  Xordhausen  in  1662,  cost  fifteen  Gulden, 
but  in  1689  the  same  quantitv  cost  onlv  four  Groschen 
in  Leipzig.  As  earh'  as  the  latter  half  of  the  seventeenth 
centur\-  tea  had  become  a  common  and  favourite  beverage 
in  Russia.  It  reached  Russia,  however,  not  from  Western 
Europe,  but  direct  through  the  Asiatic  Embassies,  and  was 
consciiuenth-  called  "'"rschai".  This  name  corresponds  to 
that  hv  which  it  was  known  among  the  Arabs  in  the  eighth 
centur\-.  But  in  Poland,  which  was  in  direct  communication 
with  the  West,  it  was  called  "Herbata",  from  ''herba  theae". 
The  most  important  constituent  of  the  tea  leaf  is 
Caffein.      The  same  principle  is  contained    in    the    coffee 


104     INTRODUCTION  OF  COFFEE  TO  EUROPE. 

bean,  and  is  very  similar  to  the  Theobromin  of  Cocoa. 
The  Paraguay  Tea,  or  "Mate"  and  the  Kola-nuts  also 
contain  Caffein. 

The  Coffee  plant  was  first  cultivated  on  a  large 
scale  b\'  the  Arabs,  ^vhile  Europe,  Avith  the  exception 
of  Turke^',  knew  nothing  of  the  existence  of  this 
beverage  until  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth  centur\'. 
Coffee  was  first  brought  to  Constantinople  from  Eg\-pt 
by  Selim  I  in  1517,  and  twent^'  A'ears  later  there 
were  already  several  Coffee-houses  in  that  cit^'.  It 
reached  Western  Europe  through  the  \"enetians.  Prosper 
Alpinus,  who  lived  in  Egypt  as  doctor  to  the  Venetian 
Consul  and  published  his  work  on  Eg\'ptian  plants  bet- 
ween the  \ears  1591 — 93,  gave  the  first,  although  very 
imperfect,  description  of  the  Coffee  tree.  From  Venice, 
where  the  first  Coftee-house  was  opened  in  1645,  the 
custom  of  coffee  drinking  spread  rapidly  over  the  whole 
of  Italy,  Le  Grand  d'Auss^'  informs  us  that  Marseilles 
was  the  first  town  in  France  in  which  Coffee-houses 
were  built.  In  the  time  of  Louis  XIV  the  use  of  coffee 
as  a  beverage  came  into  vogue  in  Paris,  and  this  was 
chiefly  due  to  the  influence  of  Soliman  Aga,  the  Envoy 
of  Mohammed  III.  Le  Grand  d'Aussv  tells  us  that  Soli- 
man  ingratiated  himself  so  with  the  Parisian  ladies  that 
it  became  the  fashion  to  call  on  him.  He  had  coffee 
served  to  the  ladies  in  oriental  fashion;  slaves  handed 
it  to  them  in  shining  porcelain  cups  on  gold  -  fringed 
serviettes.  The  foreign  furniture  of  the  apartments,  the 
sitting  on  the  floor,  the  conversation  which  was  carried 
on    by    means    of    an    interpreter,    —  all   this  Le  Grand 


FIRST  CAFE  IN   PARIS. 1U5 

d'Auss\-  thinks  was  calculated  to  turn  the  heads  of  the 
I>ench  ladies.  Soliman's  Coffee  was  talked  about  on 
all  sides:  everyone  wished  to  taste  it.  At  that  time  it 
was  still  ver\-  difficult  to  obtain  Coffee  beans,  one  pound 
costing  about  fort\'  dollars.  In  the  \ear  1()72  an  Armenian 
called  Pascal  opened  on  the  (^uaie  de  I'Ecole,  the  first 
"Cafe"  in  Paris  —  so  called  from  the  beverage  sold 
there.  It  was  a  "Boutique''  in  oriental  style,  and  did 
not  flourish  because  it  was  not  sufficienth'  grand  for  the 
line  folk  who  alone  drank  Coffee  at  that  time.  This 
was  recognised  hv  the  Florentine  Procope,  who  was  a 
favourite  in  Paris  because  he  had  introduced  ice-cream. 
He  started  a  Cafe  opposite  the  old  Comedie  Francaise, 
where  he  provided,  besides  Coffee,  Tea,  Cocoa,  Ices 
and  various  liqueurs.  The  establishment  was,  moreover, 
tastefulh-  decorated  and  before  long  proved  a  great 
success.  There  were  soon  numerous  imitators,  and  in 
1676  Paris  possessed  a  vast  number  of  Coffee-houses, 
whose  influence  proved  ver^'  beneficial  as  it  reduced 
drunkenness.  That  which  Louis  XIV^,  "ce  Roi  si  decent", 
as  Le  Grand  d'Aussy  expresses  it,  was  unable  to  bring 
about  by  severe  punishment,  the  Florentine  Procope 
accomplished.  But  Coffee  was  considered  to  be  not 
entirely  uninjurious,  and  the  Marquise  de  Sevigne  con- 
sequently advises  her  daughter,  'in  a  letter  dated  lOSO. 
to  add  a  little  milk  to  it,  "pour  en  temperer  le  danger"". 
In  England  Coffee  is  first  mentioned  bv  Baco  of  Verulam 
as  earlv  as  1624.  The  first  Coffee-house  in  London  was 
started  in  1652  b\-  an  Armenian  named  Pasqua,  the  ser- 
vant   of    a  Turkish   doctor.     Berlin   followed  much  later. 


106 SUBSTITUTES  FOR  COFFEE. 

for  according  to  V^olz  the  first  Coffee-house  there 
was  not  opened  till  the  rear  1721.  Many  German 
towns,  however,  had  the  lead  of  Berlin  in  this  respect. 
Coffee-houses  existed  in  Hamburg  in  1679,  in  Niirnberg 
and  Regensburg  in  1()86  and  in  Cologne  in  1687-  In 
\^ienna  a  certain  Kolschitzky  was  granted  permission 
to  open  a  Coffee-house  in  1683.  This  was  as  a  reward 
for  the  bravery  by  which  he  had  distinguished  himself 
in  the  same  year  when  the  town  was  liberated  from 
the  Turks.  By  the  middle  of  the  eighteenth  century 
Coffee  drinking  was  universal  in  Germany,  and  Coffee 
was  an  important  article  of  commerce  in  Hamburg 
and  Bremen.  Frederic  the  Great  sought  in  vain  to 
limit  its  consumption.  In  his  endeavour  to  exclude  it 
from  Prussia  and  "keep  the  money  in  the  country" 
he  imposed  heavy  taxes  on  colonial  products  which 
were  already  dear  enough.  He  even  forbade  their 
import  altogether  or  sought  to  at  least  monopolise  them. 
Markgraf  and  other  chemists  were  commissioned  to 
procure  substitutes,  and  this  led  to  the  use  of  Acorns, 
Barley,  Rye  and  even  Turnips  and  Horse  -  Chestnuts 
for  Coffee.  Chickor}-  Coffee  was  not  \'et  known  of 
at  that  time;  but,  as  I  understand  from  what  Lippmann 
writes,  first  came  into  use  in  1790.  These  substitutes 
for  Coffee  did  not  find  much  favour  with  the  public: 
so  in  1789  a  Coffee  monopoly  was  established.  The 
ordinary  consumer  was  compelled  to  buy  Coffee  ready 
roasted  from  the  State  at  twenty-four  "lot"  for  a  "thaler", 
while  "roasting  licenses"  were  given  to  the  nobility,  the 
clerg}'  and  officials. 


THE  COCOA  TREE. 


107 


Tlic    histor\'    of  Cocoa    is    ver\-    similar    to    that    of 

Tea    and    Coffee.     The    Cocoa    tree    is  more  difticult  to 

cuhivate    tlum    mam'  other  tropical  plants,  for  besides  a 

ver\'  even  and  comparati\'el\'  high  temperature,  it  reciuires 

an  atmosphere  of  great  and  uniform  moisture.    Its  home 

is    thought    to    be    in    the    countries    round    the    Gulf    of 

Mexico,    but    it     is     now     grown     all     o\cr    the    tropics 

wherever    the    above  conditions  exist.     The  Cocoa  plant 

/*  ..      belongs  to  the  Sterculiaceae,  a  fam- 

,  ;  ih'    which    is    related    to    the    Malva- 

'  ceae.     Most  of   the  Cocoa   of   trade    is 

obtained  from    T/icobroiiia   Cakao.     It  is 

a  tree    with    dark    foliage,    gnarled    trunk 

crown,    generalh"    attaining 

a    height    of   from  eight  to 

ten  ^'ards.  The  flowers 


:     are  produced    in  a 

curious  wa\'  —  t?i'0- 

wing  out  principalh-  from 

the  old  wood.     The  trunk 

and  thick  branches    are  thus 

liung  with    fruit.     The    colour 

of    the    flowers    varies    between 

white    and    red,    and    that    of    the 

fruits  between  mellow  and  dark  red. 

Although    the    flowers    are    small    the 

cucumber  -  like  fruits  can  attain  a  length  of 

twentv-live  centimetres.    'V\\q  tree  flowers  and 

fruits    almost    uninterruptedh',    but    generalh' 

yields    onh-  two    principal   crops  in  the  vear. 


108 COCOA  IN  MEXICO. 

The  seeds  are  embedded  in  the  bitter  pulp  and  arranged 
in  the  ripe  fruit  in  five  longitudinal  rows.  The  bitter 
flavour  of  the  seeds  is  mitigated  b^'  a  fermenting  process, 
to  which  thev  are  submitted  when  thev  have  been  freed 
from  the  pulp. 

Cocoa  was  known  to  the  Astecs  in  Mexico  and 
even  to  the  Toltecs  whom  thev  subdued.  When  the 
Spaniards  conquered  Mexico  in  1519  they  found  the 
cultivation  of  the  Cocoa  alread}'  well  established.  Cocoa 
"nibs"  were  used  in  Mexico,  and  even  in  the  whole  of 
Central  America,  as  coins,  in  the  same  way  as  Pepper 
was  once  used  in  Europe.  It  was  said  that  when  the 
Spaniards  conquered  Mexico  the}'  found  in  the  state 
coffers  no  fewer  than  two-and-a-half  million  pounds  of 
these  "nibs".  In  Mexico  the  roasted  Cocoa  "nibs"  w-ere 
shelled  and  powdered  and  then  stirred  in  cold  water  to 
make  a  brew,  and  mixed  with  maize  meal.  Those  w^ho 
could  afford  it  added  spices,  vanilla,  scented  flowers  and 
honey.  This  de  coction,  "bouillie  assez  degoutante"  savs 
Le  Grand  d'Aussy,  was  called  "Chokoladl".  It  is  still 
uncertain  whether  this  word  is  derived  from  the  Mexican 
name  of  the  plant  "Kakao",  or  "Kakagnate",  or  from 
"Choko"  (foam)  and  "Atl"  (water).  The  Spaniards,  who 
had  first  tasted  Cocoa  at  the  court  of  Montezuma,  soon 
introduced  it  to  Europe,  and  todav  Spain  still  consumes 
the  greatest  quantity-  of  Cocoa.  When  Carletti  returned 
to  Florence  in  lt)06  from  his  travels  in  distant  countries, 
during  which  he  visited  the  West  Indies,  he  brought 
Cocoa  with  him.  The  hot  beverage,  which  was  made 
in  Florence   from    Cocoa-powder,    was  soon  widely  used 


INTkODlC  riON   OF  COCOA  TO  1:LKoPK.      1(I'> 


in  the  whole  of  Ttalw  Cocoa  was  brought  to  France 
in  1()15  b\  Anna  of  Austria,  wife  of  Louis  XIII,  but  it 
did  not  find  much  favour  then.  It  became  more  wideh 
used  in  1()()1  under  the  inlliience  ot  Maria  Theresia  of 
Spain,  wife  of  Louis  XI\',  who,  however,  used  to  hide 
herself  (as  the  Duchess  of  Montpensier  informs  us)  when 
drinking  her  Cocoa.  At  that  time  Cocoa  drinking  must 
still  have  been  regarded  with  disfavour,  if  not  with 
actual  disapproval.  In  16/1  Madame  de  Sevigne  was 
able  to  write  to  her  daughter :  'A'ous  ne  vous  portez  pas 
bien.  le  chocolat  vous  remettra".  Cocoa  must  have  lost 
its  repute  as  a  medicine,  howe^■er.  for  in  a  later  letter 
it  is  complained  of  as  '"source  de  vapeurs  et  de 
palpitations".  On  the  other  hand  a  Parisian  doctor. 
Bachot,  read  a  thesis  before  the  facultv  in  1684  in  which 
he  advocated  well  prepared  Cocoa  as  one  of  the  most 
valuable  drinks,  and  said  that  it  might  well  have  served 
as  Nectar  and  Ambrosia  to  refresh  the  Gods.  Linnaeus 
was  of  the  same  opinion  when  he  wrote  a  treatise  on 
Cocoa  in  1769  in  the  "Amoenitates  academicae",  and 
gave  the  Cocoa  tree  the  botanical  name  of  "Theobroma"', 
that  is  to  sav  "food  of  the  Gods".  In  1625  Cocoa 
began  to  be  used  in  England,  and  about  the  same  time 
it  became  known  in  I  lolland.  Bontekoe.  ph\sician  in 
ordinar\-  to  the  Great  Elector,  brought  Cocoa  to  Berlin. 
Frederic  the  Great  forbade  the  introduction  of  Cocoa 
and  commissioned  the  same  chemist  Markgraf,  who  had 
previouslv  experimented  on  Coffee,  to  make  a  substitute 
for  Cocoa.  Linden  flowers  were  chosen  for  this  purpose, 
but  with  verv  little  result. 


110 COCA. 

When  the  Spaniards  came  to  Peru  in  the  sixteenth 
century  thev  found  ^•et  another  stimulant  in  use  there, 
which  the  instinct  of  the  natives  had  discovered  — 
namely  Cocain.  This  principle  belongs,  as  do  Caffein 
and  Theobromin,  to  the  vegetable  alkaloids.  The  Incas 
used  to  chew  Coca  leaves  in  the  same  way  as  the 
Hindoos  masticate  the  Betel  nuts,  and  flavoured  these 
leaves  with  ashes  of  the  Quinoa  plant  (Chcnopodium 
Qutnoa),  or  with  slaked  lime,  as  is  done  with  Betel  nuts 
in  India.  In  moderation  Coca  leaves  stimulate  the 
nervous  system;  but  when  used  to  excess  they  become 
injurious.  Deterioration  of  the  ph\sical  and  mental 
powers  sets  in  and  the  "Cocquero"  ma^•  be  likened  to 
our  inebriate.  The  Spaniards  at  first  saw  onh'  the  evil 
effects  of  Coca  chewing  and  sought  to  counteract  it  b\' 
legislation  and  ecclesiastical  prohibition.  For  this  reason 
the  Coca  leaves  were  not  introduced  into  Europe  as 
were  other  similar  stimulants.  Public  attention  was  first 
directed  to  this  alkaloid  when  Koller  of  \^ienna  discovered 
in  1884  that  a  solution  of  Cocain  rendered  the  cornea 
and  the  conjunctiva  of  the  eye  insensible  to  touch  for 
some  time  without  injurious  effects.  Its  use  in  operations 
on  the  e\e  is  now  universal ;  and  when  its  power  of 
rendering  easih'  accessible  and  sensitive  nerves  of  the 
human  body  insensible  were  recognised,  it  became 
important  in  other  branches  of  medicine. 

Coca  leaves  are  obtained  from  a  bush  which  is  \ev\ 
like  our  sloe  onh'  considerably  larger.  The^'  are  a  vivid 
green,  very  thin,  elliptical  and  terminate  in  a  very  fine 
point.       The     yellowish-white    flowers    are    not    striking 


Tin:  CL()\'i:. in 

because  thev  are  small.  But  the  red  berries,  which  are 
like  those  of  our  Cornel  tree,  are  conspicuous  among  the 
foliage.  The  botanical  name  of  the  plant  is  Erythroxylon 
Coca:  it  is  a  distinct  hunil\-  limited  to  this  one  genus, 
which  howc\er  includes  man\-  species.  The  leaves  are 
slio-hth'  aromatic  and  have  a  pleasantlv  bitter  flavour. 
The  pure  alkaloid  is  a  colourless  cr^•stal  which  dissolves 
onh  a  little  in  water,  easih*  in  alcohol  and  best  in  ether. 
The  histor\-  of  the  Clove  plant  is  particularly  inte- 
resting, for  it  has  plaved  quite  an  important  part  in  the 
histor\-  of  the  cultivation  of  spices.  Eugenia  Caryo- 
phyllata.  the  Clove  plant,  belongs  to  the  M\rtaceae,  as 
do  also  the  Mvrtle,  Eucalyptus,  Guava  and  Rose-apple 
which  we  see  in  La  Mortola  Gardens.  It  is  a  shapely, 
evergreen  tree  which  can  grow  to  a  height  of  thirt}'  feet. 
The  leaves  are  leatherv  and  shinv,  with  translucent 
fipots.  The  llowers  are  borne  in  terminal  corymbs. 
The  four-angled  tlower  stem  spreads  out  at  its  apex  into 
four  thick  calvx  limbs  which  bear  the  petals  and  stamens 
at  their  base.  The  corolla  falls  off  when  the  llower 
opens:  but  the  buds,  or  "cloves",  are  gathered  shortly 
before  this  happens.  These  are  either  picked  b}'  hand 
or  knocked  off  with  Bamboo  rods.  Cloves,  then,  are 
the  unopened  blossoms  of  a  Myrtaceous  plant,  and  are 
in  no  way  connected  with  the  species  of  Dianthus  ot 
our  gardens  which  we  call  Clove  Pinks,  although  their 
perfume  is  alike.  When  dr\-  the  cloves  change  from  a 
dark  red  to  the  familiar  brown.  Cloves  were  known  to 
the  Chinese  before  our  era.  In  the  fourth  century  B.  C.  they 
were    brought     to    Europe.      For    a     long    time    it    was 


112  THE  NUTMEG. 


thought  that  the  native  country  of  the  Clove  plant  and 
the  Nutmeg  was  either  Java  or  Cevlon :  but  these  is- 
lands were  really  onlv  stations  on  the  track  of  the  clove- 
trade.  Nicolo  de  Conti  discovered  this  when  he  visited 
Java  from  India  in  the  first  half  of  the  fifteenth  century. 
There  he  was  told  that  the  home  of  this  spice  was- 
fifteen  days  further  to  the  east.  The  discovery  of  the 
Moluccas,  which  according  to  O.  Wartburg  took  place 
in  1511  and  is  to  be  attributed  to  Antonio  d'Abreo  and 
Francisco  Serrano,  enlightened  Europe  on  the  origin  of 
the  clove.  When  the  Moluccas  fell  into  the  hands  of 
the  Portugese  the  spice  trade  passed  to  them,  and  a 
hundred  ^ears  later  to  the  Dutch  East  India  Company. 
This  company  sought  by  every  possible  means  to  monop- 
olise the  production  of  cloves  and  nutmegs,  and  even 
confined  their  cultivation  to  a  few  islands  in  order  to 
control  it  more  effectually :  on  the  other  islands  these 
spice  -  trees  were  extirpated.  In  order  to  fetch  high 
prices  the  company  put  only  a  limited  quantity  onto 
the  market;  and  when,  in  consequence  of  good  crops, 
the  store  grew  too  large  in  1/60  part  of  it  was  burnt 
by  the  admiralty  at  Amsterdam.  In  spite  of  the  strict 
watch  kept  by  the  Dutch,  the  French  Governors  of  the 
Mauritius  and  the  Bourbons  succeeded  in  the  latter  half 
of  the  eighteenth  century  in  obtaining  possession  of 
Clove  and  Nutmeg  trees  and  planted  them  on  their 
islands.  The  English,  during  their  occupation  of  the 
Moluccas  from  1795  to  1802,  spread  the  spice  plants 
beyond  these  islands.  And  now  they  are  grown  over 
a  great  part  of  the  tropics.    The  Clove  plant  has  almost 


CINNAMON. 


disappeared    from    the   Moluccas;    and  oiil\'  the  Xutnieg 
is  still  cultivated  there  to  aiiA"  extent. 

The  Nutmeg  tree,  so  often  mentioned  together  with 
the  Clove  tree,  belongs  to  the  genus  Myristica,  and  is 
classed  near  to  the  Laurels.  ^Fhe  most  important  of  the 
Nutmegs  is  Myris/ica  fra^Taiis.  This  tree  resembles  the 
Laurel.  Its  flowers  are  white  or  Aellowish  and  are  remark- 
ably like  those  of  our  Hawthorn.  ThcA'  are  not  ver^• 
striking  on  account  of  their  small  size;  but  the  bright 
yellow  apricot -like  fruits,  which  are  borne  at  the  same 
time  as  the  tlowers,  are  very  conspicuous.  When  ripe 
these  fruits  burst  open  and  expose  the  red  aril  within. 
This  surrounds  the  dark  brown  seeds,  known  as  nutmegs, 
in  the  form  of  a  laminated  covering,  and  is  known  h\ 
the  name  of  "Mace". 

Cinnamon  was  also  once  a  monopoh'  of  the  Portu- 
gese. From  them  it  fell  into  tlie  hands  of  the  Dutch 
East  Lidia  Compan^^  and  linally  passed  to  the  English 
East  India  Company  when  the  English  obtained  pos- 
session of  Ceylon  in  17*^6.  ■ —  As  cinnamon,  cloves  and 
nutmeg  figured  in  the  ^^^^^^  histor\'  of  the  Nether- 
lands, so  did  East    ^^^^^^^^^^^.    Indian  Pepper 

Venice.  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^KL    Thus  the 

sake  j^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^    trade      pepper 

behoved      ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^H   Venice  to  hold 


the  Red  Sea      ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^V    and         Egypt. 
Quantities    of     ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^   pepper  were  sold 
^^^^^^^^^^^^r  the   Fondaco 

de'Tedeschi      in        ^^BB^^^^      \'enice.  In  the  Middle 
Ages,  as  Fliickiger        coji,,,,,  j>'„rs<,.       states,    the  consump- 


114  GINGER. 

tion  of  pepper  was  enormous.  This  condiment  at  last 
reached  such  importance  that  it  became  an  ahnost  universal 
unit  of  currency.  It  served  severally  for  payment  of  taxes, 
rents,  dues  and  ransom,  and  as  a  costly  gift,  and  was  parti- 
cularly mentioned  in  wills.  In  the  thirteenth  and  four- 
teenth centuries  pepper  was  decidedly  the  first  among 
spices :  it  was  so  expensive  that  the  poorer  classes  could 
not  afford  to  use  it  regularly,  and  "cher  comme  poivre" 
became  proverbial.  This  craving  for  condiments  arose, 
as  Le  Grand  d'Aussy  tells  us,  from  the  many  indigestible 
articles  of  food  which  were  in  use  at  that  time.  Many 
fastidious  gourmands  carried  spices  with  them  in  order 
to  flavour  the  food  at  table  according  to  their  own 
palate.  Regnard  calls  these  Epicureans  "Docteurs  en 
Soupers". 

Ginger  is  mentioned  in  Wilhelm  Heyd's  "Geschichte 
des  Levantehandels  im  Mittelalter",  as  being  one  of  the 
most  widely  used  of  the  spices  of  those  times  • —  almost 
as  much  in  request  as  pepper.  This  plant,  whose  native 
country  is  India,  may  also  be  seen  at  La  Mortola.  The 
green  shoots,  which  are  a  yard  high,  spring  from  the 
aromatic  "root-stock",  which  is  hidden  in  the  soil.  The 
stems  resemble  those  of  the  Canna  which  we  grow  in 
our  gardens,  and,  like  them,  bear  leaves  arranged  in 
two  rows;  the  leaves,  however,  are  smaller.  The  yellow 
and  violet  flowers  are  borne  in  the  axils  of  bracts  which 
grow  very  close  together  at  the  apex  of  the  shoots.  At 
La  Mortola  the  Ginger  does  not  blossom,  and  even  in 
Asia  flower-bearing  shoots  are  rarely  developed.  Pieces 
of  the  "root-stock",  either  peeled  or  not,  form  the  ginger 


KOLI'l-:    1)1-:   LA   CORMCIIi:.  115 

of  coinnuTco.  riic  i^iii^'cr  wliich  comes  from  China  and 
is  boiled  in  sugar,  is  made  ol  tender  and  carefulU-  peel- 
ed ••root-slock".  Preser\'ed  (yiniror  \\-as  imjiorted  lo 
hal\-  in  earthenware  jars  as  carh-  as  the  lirst  centur\' 
of  our  era:  but  tlie  lirst  European  to  see  the  plant  was 
Marco  Polo  wlien  on  his  travels  in  China  and  India.  This 
justly  famous  traveller  won  great  distinction  b^■  his  dis- 
cover\'  of  China.  On  this  accoiuit  the  owner  of  La 
Mortola,  who  has  himself  spent  man\-  \ears  in  the 
"Middle  Kingdom",  has  placed  a  portrait  of  ]Marco 
Polo  in  the  porch  of  his  villa.  It  is  a  glass  mosaic  on 
a  gold  background  b\'  v^alviati  of  Venice.  As  there  is 
no  authentic  likeness  of  this  great  traveller,  the  artist 
was  left  to  draw  upon  his  imagination. 

chapte:r  IX. 

Tlie  view  of  the  snow-capped  Maritime  Alps  from 
the  lamous  "Route  de  la  Corniche".  which  joins  Mentone 
and  Nice,  is  most  impressive.  In  spring,  however,  the 
high  mountains  are  fretjuenth-  veiled  in  cloud.  A  clear 
dav  should  tlierefore  be  chosen  for  this  excursion.  Then 
the  scene  is  of  unrivalled  beaut\-.  The  road  begins  to 
rise  near  Roccabruna  and  follows  the  mountain-side  in 
innumerable  windings.  Occasionalh  it  bends  inward 
abrupth-  as  if  about  to  enter  the  cliff:  then  suddenh  it 
reverses  its  direction  as  though  to  dive  into  the  sea. 
There  is  a  continual  succession  of  changing  scenes. 
Heneath  are  green  \alle\s  and  the  ever-var\ing  outline 
oi  the  coast :  abo\e  the  summits  of  the  range.  Wherever 
these    di\ide    the    snow\     heights    of    the    Maritime  Alps 


116  LA  TURBIE. 


burst  upon  us  like  a  vision  in  the  distance.  The  Corniche 
reaches  its  highest  point  at  La  Turbie  —  the  old 
"Trophea'"  or  "Turris  in  via"',  —  about  1650  feet  above 
sea  level.  The  present  road,  which  Napoleon  I  con- 
structed in  1S05.  followed  the  old  Roman  road.  Turbie 
is  now  also  connected  with  Monte  Carlo  by  a  funicular 
railway.  The  frontier  between  Gaul  and  Italy  once  ran 
through  Turbie.  The  tower,  known  as  the  Tower  of 
Augustus,  still  defies  the  ravages  of  time.  It  rises  out 
of  might^•  ruins  and  can  be  seen  at  a  great  distance. 
The  tower  with  its  jagged  battlements  was  built  in  the 
fourteenth  centur\-  out  of  the  hewn  stones  of  the  huge 
monument  which  the  Senate  and  Roman  people  erected 
to  Octavius  when  the  battle  of  Actium  made  him  master 
of  the  world.  Plin^■  has  preserved  for  us  the  inscription 
which  the  monument  bore  on  its  four  sides.  Besides  the 
dedication  to  Caesar  Imperator.  there  were  the  names 
of  twentA-four  Alpine  tribes  who  had  been  subjugated 
hv  the  Romans.  A  statue  of  the  Emperor  crowned  the 
monument,  which  according  to  old  descriptions  must 
ha\'e  been  imposing.  Nevertheless  later  generations  did 
not  spare  it.  The  Lombards  commenced  its  destruction: 
and  the  Saracens  turned  it  into  a  fortress.  Then  for 
centuries  the  inhabitants  of  La  Turbie  and  Monaco  treated 
the  ruins  as  a  quarrA-  to  obtain  building  material  for 
their  churches  and  houses.  In  the  twelfth  centurA'  the 
Genoese  fetched  marble  from  here  to  adorn  their  build- 
ings, and  what  then  remained  was  used  for  the  high 
altar  of  the  old  Cathedral  of  Nice.  From  La  Turbie 
Monte    Carlo,     with    all    its    splendour  and   miser\-,   looks 


EZA.  -^  MCE.  117 

like  an  innocent  low  I)Ul  e\en  on  this  elevated  spot 
we  are  reminded  of  the  serious  asj")ect  of  life  b\-  all  the 
tortitications  whith  I'raiu-e  has  erected  on  the  mountain 
tops.  I^ven  the  hiirhest  mountain  aho\e  Monte  Carlo, 
the  Mont  A<rel.  wliose  summit  (about  .-^.SOO  feet  high) 
dominates  the  whole  countr\-  round,  is  now  crowned 
with   redoubts. 

The  most  beautiful  spot  on  the  Corniche  seems  to 
me  to  be  wliere  Eza  rises  on  its  steep  rock  midwav  in 
the  landscape.  NN'hat  an  immense  expenditure  of  energv' 
must  have  been  required  to  build  strongholds  out  of 
huge  hewn  blocks  poised  on  these  gidd\'  heights  between 
lieaven  and  earth  I  Surrounded  b\-  precipices  *and  secure 
against  all  surprises,  Nicois  and  Piedmontese  families 
have  ruled  this  fortress  in  succession.  Miserable  dwellings 
shelter  under  the  strong  walls  and  still  stand  toda^' 
crowding  round  the  crumbling  ruins.  The  old  splendour 
has  vanished  from  this  spot:  the  miser^•  has  remained.  But 
all  tliis  as  seen  from  a  distance  is  gilded  b\'  the  briglit 
southern  sun.  and  the  proud  rocks  stand  out  majestically 
against  the  blue  background  of  the   sea. 

Nice  continues  to  grow :  it  is  losing  its  original 
Italian  character  and  assuming  that  of  an  elegant, 
cosmopolitan  cit^■.  It  revels  in  modern  luxur\-.  In  the 
winter  ••Redoutes",  "Rattles  of  Flowers",  regattas  and 
horse  races  follow  one  another  in  endless  succession.  The 
craving  for  enjoyment  has  seized  upon  even  the  natives. 
Xice  is  now  as  much  'en  vogue'  as  was  Baiae  of  old, 
and  is  equalK-  given  up  to  pleasure.  How  strange  that 
this    spot    should    have  been  chosf^n  I      It  has  suffered  so 


118 CAP  D^ANTIBES. 

man^'  reverses  of  fortune  in  past  times.  Xice  has  over 
and  over  again  been  plundered  and  laid  waste  bv  Goths, 
Lombards,  Saracens  and  Provencals;  France  repeatedly 
conquered  and  lost  it,  but  now  retains  it.  Plague  has 
decimated  the  town ;  severe  frosts  have  several  times 
destroved  its  Olive  and  Orange  groves:  and  African 
locusts  have  frequenth'  devastated  them.  All  this  mav 
perhaps  account  for  the  frivolitv  of  its  population,  and 
mav  be  the  reason  wh\'  Xice  has  become  a  metropolis 
of  festivities. 

I  was,  however,  not  bound  for  X'ice  but  for  the  Cap 
d'Antibes,  a  spot  which  had  man^'  ^'ears  before  won 
my  heart.  An  article  b^■  Georges  Sand  in  the  "'Revue 
des  deux  mondes""  of  1868  first  made  me  acquainted 
with  the  beauties  of  this  promontorv.  Georges  Sand 
visited  the  garden  of  the  eminent  French  botanist  Thuret, 
which  lies  on  the  ridge  of  the  Cap,  and  was  quite 
carried  awav  hv  the  prospect  which  she  enjoved  there. 
In  spite  of  this  the  Cap  d'Antibes  has  remained  com- 
parativeh'  unfrequented,  for  it  stretches  far  out  into  the 
sea  and  is  therefore  too  exposed  to  the  winds  to  be 
suitable  as  a  resort  for  invalids  suffering  from  chest 
complaints.  The  whole  chain  of  the  snowy  Alps  can  be 
seen  from  the  Cap  which  is  but  little  sheltered  from 
the  cold  north  current  from  the  mountains.  On  the  other 
hand  the  Cap  does  not  suffer  much  from  the  mistral,  as 
the  Montagues  des  Maures  and  the  Esterel  ward  it  off. 
The  hard  limestone  rocks  crop  up  ever\'\vhere  on  the 
shore  and  there  are  few  places  on  the  Riviera  di  Ponente 
where   one    suffers  less  from  dust  than  here.     I  consider 


MEW   FROM   Till-:   CAP   DAM'IBES. 


1I'.> 


4 


the   L'ap  d'.Vntibes     one     ot     the 

most  loveh'  spots  on  tlie  Ri\  iera.  Its 
In'auties  can  be  seen  to  full  advantage 
from  the  hilh'  ridge  on  which 
the  lighthouse  and  the  modest 
little  chapel  of  Notre  Dame 
dc  Ron  Port  stand.  The 
outlook  from  this  spot  in  clear, 
sunn\'  weather  is  truh'  magnificent. 
The  Cap  d'Antibes  stretches 
so  far  out  into  the  open  sea 
that  one  can  survey  the  whole 
coast  from  it  as  from  a  ship.  It 
divides  the  Golfe  Jouan  from  the 
Bale  des  Anges  and  overlooks  both 
ba^'s.  To  the  west  the  wide  view  is 
closed  b\'  the  Esterel  range,  which  rises 
steeph"  from  the  sea  with  varied  outline. 
The  Esterel  reminds  one  in  its  contour  of  the  Sieben 
Gebirge,  the  pride  of  the  Rliinelanders:  and  this  resem- 
blance ma\-  be  explained  hv  the  \olcanic  origin  of  both 
ranges.  Cannes,  which  is  onl\-  an  hour's  walk  from  the 
Cap  d'Antibes,  is  concealed  b\'  the  tongue  of  land 
called  La  Croisettc.  The  island  of  Ste.  Marguerite  - 
one  ot  the  lies  de  Lerins  -  lies  out  to  sea  be\ond  this 
spit  of  land.      ^^  e  can  clearh'    see  the  fort  in  whicli  the 


Co/ii'Oha/iis  iiHhacoiJcs. 


120  VIEW  FROM  THE  CAP  D'ANTIBES. 


mysterious  ''Homme  au  masque  de  fer'\  and  later  Bazaine, 
were  once  imprisoned.  One  place  succeeds  another  on 
the  coast.  Nearest  is  the  Uttle  town  of  Golfe  Jouan,  in 
whose  well  sheltered  harbour  the  French  Mediterranean 
Squadron  lies  at  anchor.  Innumerable  villas  and  gardens 
cover  the  green  hills  which  slope  gently  down  to  the 
sea.  Away  to  the  south-west  the  Cap  d'Antibes  stretches 
another  arm  into  the  deep,  and  on  this  stand  a  small 
fort  and  the  Grand  Hotel.  Southward  the  eve  loses 
itself  in  the  wide  expanse  of  water :  eastward  we  can 
follow  the  coast-line  to  beyond  Bordighera,  where  the 
mountains  at  last  fade  into  the  distant  blue.  The  houses 
of  Nice  form  a  semi-circle  round  the  Baie  des  Anges  and 
are  scattered  on  the  slopes  of  the  neighbouring  hills.  In 
the  foreground  old  Antipolis  stands  out  sharply,  surrounded 
by  high  walls  and  moats  in  mediaeval  style,  and  domin- 
ated by  the  picturesque  Fort  Carre  which  \'auban  built 
for  its  protection.  To  the  north  mountain  is  piled  on 
mountain  culminating  in  the  radiant  heights  of  the  snow- 
clad  Alps.  Thus  does  this  view  unite  all  the  most 
sublime  elements  that  Nature  can  offer.  How  charming 
is  the  contrast  between  the  vast  level  of  the  sea 
and  the  diversified  outline  of  the  towering  mountain 
giants:  in  what  delicate  gradations  does  the  azure 
blue  of  the  sky  merge  into  the  soft  green  of  the 
coast :  how  sharply  does  the  gleaming  white  of  the 
snow  stand  out  against  the  dark  blue  of  the  heavens! 
We  breathe  freely  amid  these  surroundings:  we  feel 
elevated  by  these  glorious  scenes  which  are  reflected  in 
the   soul. 


CAV   irANTlBES.  121 

Tlie  little  chapel  of  Notre  Dame  de  f^on  I'ort  is 
adorned  with  main  an  ""ex  \oto"  offering.  Kind's  and 
cluiins  of  ships  and  small  boats  carved  out  of  wood  bear 
witness  to  the  g'ratitude  of  tliose  who  have  been  saved 
from  jn-ril  at  sea.  There  is  a  curious  stor\-  connected 
with  the  (Jrand  II()tel  of  the  Cap  d'Antibes.  De  N'ille- 
messant.  the  once  well  known  editor  of  the  "Figaro",  is 
said  to  have  had  tlie  Hotel  built  as  a  home  for  authors 
and  artists,  who  were  to  work  there  together  stimulated 
b\-  the  inspiring  surroundings.  This  tale  was,  however, 
oiiU"  a  ''blague''  originated  bv  articles  in  the  paper,  and 
further  supported  b\-  an  "Expedition*'  which  the  staff 
of  the  "'Figaro"  made  to  this  neighbourhood.  The  object 
of  the  expedition  seems  however  to  have  been  very  different 
to  the  one  put  forward.  The  idea  was  to  start  a  new 
resort  on  the  Riviera  to  rival  the  rapidlv  increasing  town 
of  Cannes.  TheA'  wished  to  imitate  Lord  Brougham, 
about  whom  the  "'Figaro"  of  April  25,  1867  relates  that 
he  had  discovered  the  town  of  Cannes  —  discovered  in 
as  much  as  he  found  plots  of  land  for  sale  there  at  five 
sous  the  metre  which  were  soon  sold  at  sixt\'  francs.  But 
the  "Figaro"  abandoned  all  its  fine  plans  and  the  projected 
"\"illa  Soleir"  was  never  built.  A  Russian,  however,  who 
was  living  on  the  Cap  d'Antibes.  decided  to  build  the 
great  H()tel  du  dip.  The  undertaking  pro\ed  a  failure. 
One  tenant  succeeded  another  until  at  last  the  etablish- 
ment  was  clo«sed.  But  now  that  the  number  of  travellers 
has  so  much  increased,  circumstances  seem  more  favour- 
able. The  Hotel  is  now  under  skilled  and  careful  man- 
agement and  will  doubtless  prosper.   Its  position  is  uniquely 


122 CAP  D^ANTIBES. 

beautiful.  The  front  windows  look  out  over  Golfe  Jouan 
and  the  Esterel  range :  whilst  the  back  windows  command 
a  view  of  the  snowy  Alps.  The  house  is  surrounded  by 
a  large  garden  which  stretches  down  to  the  sea.  It  loses 
itself  in  the  aromatic  Mediterranean  underwood,  and  where 
this  ceases  bare,  rugged  rocks  continue  the  narrow  pro- 
montorv.  The  sea  hurls  its  waves  unceasingly  against 
these  rocks,  and  in  heavv  storms  the  surf  is  driven  right 
over  them.  The  steep  slopes  of  the  Cap  are  weathered 
into  a  thousand  fantastic  shapes,  forming  shelves,  caves, 
inlets  and  recesses;  so  that  at  any  hour  of  the  day  a 
nook  can  be  found  sheltered  from  the  sun,  and  generally 
from  the  wind  also,  where  one  can  sit  out  with  a  book. 
But  it  is  difficult  to  read  much  here,  for  the  blue  waves 
dash  incessantly  against  the  rocks  and  disturb  one  b\- 
their  splashing.  At  one  time  the\'  ripple  genth'  and  almost 
inaudibly,  at  another  they  roll  up  and  break  with  a  loud 
noise  as  though  determined  to  make  themselves  heard. 
Now  the  water  washes  up  close  to  \-ou  and  as  it  dows 
back  the  eye  involuntarily  follows.  Thus  hour  after  hour 
may  be  passed  in  dreamy  contemplation  on  the  rock\- 
coast  of  Antibes,  and  one  day  after  another  slips  away 
unnoticed.  The  nervous  system  gains  repose  and  gathers 
renewed  energy  for  the  ever-increasing  strain  placed  upon 
it  in  these  days.  Quite  as  enjo\-able  as  sitting  by  the 
sea-washed  rocks  is  h'ing  among  the  aromatic  bushes  with 
the  blue  dome  of  heaven  above  and  a  glimpse  of  the  Mediter- 
ranean on  one  side.  We  spread  our  rug  over  M\'rtle  and 
Rosemary  bushes  and  recline  as  on  a  pillow.  It  is  certainl\- 
one    of    the  chief  charms  of  this  favoured  spot    that  one 


MALI'S  ON    Tin:  CAP  1) "AN'iii;i:s.         i:,; 

can  step  direct  troni  the  i^arden  iiitd  Nature's  \iririn 
wilds;  tor  tlie  ^ax'  and  aromatic  shrubs  which  clothe 
tlie  coast  here  \\  ere  not  pUmted  b^■  human  hands.  riie\' 
are  indi<»'enous  and  are  representative  ot  a  t\pe  ol  vege- 
tation, characteristic  o[  tlie  Mediterranear.  region,  which 
is  known  as  "Ahuiuis""  or  •*( larigue"'.  The  .\hu|uis  is 
being  gradualh'  encroached  upon  on  tliis  thickK  popu- 
lated coast,  and  large  tracts  of  it  can  now  onU"  be  tound 
in  the  ^Montagues  des  Maiu'es  and  the  Esterel.  In  Corsica, 
however,  it  ma^■  be  seen  to  perfection. 

The  Cap  d'Antibes  was  formerh-  noted  for  its  natural 
wealth  of  plants,  all  the  most  important  t\pes  of  the 
Provencal  tlora  being  gathered  together  here.  Man\' 
have  had  to  give  wa\'  to  cultivation .  but  those  that 
remain  are  well  worth\'   of  closer  obser\ation. 

The  jMaquis,  to  \Ahich  we  have  such  easy  access  here, 
is  characterised  b\-  'evergreen  bushes.  There  are  even 
a  certain  number  of  trees  which  do  not  grow  beyond  the 
height  of  bushes  in  tlie  ^hKluis.  hi  the  great  majority 
of  these  shrubs  the  leaf-surface  has  been  much  diminished 
and  the  leaves  have  even  disappeared  in  some  of  them. 
Thus  the  plants  are  able  to  resist  long  drought.  In  the 
spring,  when  there  is  the  necessary  moisture,  they  nearly 
all  bloom  at  the  same  time,  and  form  ga\'  gardens  where 
at  other  times  the  soil  is  parched.  Aromatic  plants  predom- 
inate in  the  Maquis.  Their  aroma  protects  them  from 
the  ravages  of  animals.  This  protection  is  essential  in 
such  a  dr\-  climate  where  it  is  ver\  difficult  for  the  jilant 
to  replace  the  parts  which  have  been  destro\ed.  b'rom 
each  plant   \ou   brush   in  passing  t|uite  a  llood  of  perfume 


124  AIAqUIS  ON  THE  CAP  DWXTIBES.        

is  liberated,  and  from  the  pfround  as  we  tread  volatile 
essences  are  wafted  upwards.  Rosemary  (Fig.  p.  3"!), 
Thyme,  Lavender  (Fig,  p.  257),  Cistus  (Fig.  p.83),  Myrtle 
and  Pistachia  (Fig.  p.  34Q),  mingle  their  sweet  odours  and 
perfume  the  air.  The  general  tone  of  the  Maquis  is  a 
brownish-green  and  onh'  the  tiowers  light  up  its  uniform 
colouring.  The\'  are  produced  in  profusion.  The  delicate 
blue  of  the  Rosemar^'  is  seen  side  b^'  side  with  the  vivid 
yellow  of  the  Broom,  and  the  bright  colour  of  the  Cistus 
near  the  dark  violet  of  the  Lavender.  In  Corsica  the  hill 
sides  present  the  appearance  of  one  huge  bouquet,  and 
the  traveller  is  intoxicated  by  the  perfume  exhaled  from 
this  sea  of  flowers.  Not  without  reason,  then,  do  sailors 
assert  that  Corsica  can  be  smelt  at  a  great  distance  out 
to  sea:  and  before  his  death  Napoleon  on  St.  Helena 
longed  for  the  spicy  perfume  of  his  native  island. 

There  is  indeed  but  little  of  the  Maquis  left  on  the 
Cap  d'Antibes,  and  ^'et  on  that  small  tongue  of  land  in 
front  of  the  garden  of  the  Grand  Hotel  one  ma\'  gather 
most  of  the  species  which  constitute  the  t^•pical  Maquis. 
Among  the  shrubby  plants  the  Rosemary  (Fig.  p.  3/ 1 )  strikes 
us  first  on  account  of  its  perfume,  its  blue  bilateral  flowers 
and  its  rigid,  linear  leaves,  which  are  white  and  felted 
underneath.  It  is  common  ever^'where.  The  sweet  smelling 
oil  escapes  if  the  leaves  are  bruised.  This  plant  is  grown 
in  our  gardens  at  home  chielh'  for  bees,  because  it  imparts 
a  line  flavour  to  the  hone^^  Its  distribution  north  of  the 
Alps  was  furthered  in  812  by  a  "'Kapitulare"  of  Charles 
the  Great,  who  ordered  the  ''rosmarinus"  to  be  planted 
in  the  Roval   Gardens.      In    olden   times    Rosemary    was 


ROSEMARY. 


125 


much    used     tor    weaving    garlands,     and        "H^x'i 
thus   adorned    the   images  of  the  Lares. 
In  the  Middle  Ages  this  aromatic  and  ever- 
green   {)lant  was  symbolic  of  love,    of  fidelit}' 
and   of  death.     Shakespeare,   too,   mentions  it 
as    an    emblem    of   fidelity,     wlien     he 
makes  distracted  Ophelia  sav  "There's    y"^ 
Rosemar\-,   that's  for  remembrance ; 
pray,    love,    remember".      And    again 
we    meet    with    it   as   a   symbol   oi  ^^^,-.^. 
death  in  another  of  Shakespeare's     '^^X    1 
tragedies,  when  Friar  Laurence  exhorts    \--<^| 
old  Capulet   to    dr\-  up    liis   tears  and 
to    lav   Rosemary   on   the    '"fair    corse"    of 


Juliet.     In  Germany  Rosema^^•  used 
at    one    time    to    be    the    favourite 
flower   of  the  people  and  was  never 
absent     from     the     smallest    garden. 
i)Ut    now-a-da\s    this    plant,    which 
has  been  enshrined  in  poetry,  is  almost 
unknown  to  them.  In  the  countr\ 
districts    of    Germany   brides 
wore    Rosemary    in    their    hair 
and    carried    it    in    their    bridal 
bouc[uets     until     well     into     the 
sixteenth  century ;     and 
the     wedding     guests     also 
crowned  themselves  with  gar- 
lands   of    Rosemary.       Later    on 
Rosemary    was    supplanted    hv    M\rtle, 


126 MYRTLE  AND   LAVENDER. 

which  was  sacred  to  Aphrodite,  and  onh'  in  a  few 
districts,  as  in  Upper  Bavaria,  has  it  been  able  to  hold 
its  own  until  today.  On  the  other  hand,  curiousl}'  enough, 
the  Myrtle  has  had  to  give  wa^'  to  Orange-blossom  in 
Italv,  for  W.  Horstel,  the  esteemed  writer  on  the 
Riviera  [in  the  "Land  und  Leute"  series,  tells  ^us  that 
no  Italian  bride  would  wear  ^Myrtle;  it  is  used  there 
as   stable   litter. 

Although  it  is  not  in  blossom  in  the  spring  we  at 
once  recognise  in  the  Maquis  the  Myrtle  by  its  shiny, 
leathery,  lanceolate  and  opposite  leaves.  A  few  of  these 
bushes  still  bear  their  blueish-black  berries  which  had 
ripened  in  the  Autumn.  When  bruised  between  the  lingers 
the  leaves  emit  a  spic\-  perfume.  Because  the  Myrtle 
was  an  emblem  of  beauty  and  youth  [it  |was  thought 
that  the  "Eau  d'Anges"  which  was  distilled  from  its 
leaves  must  possess  some  hidden  powers.  This  water 
was  much  used  in  France  to  restore  faded  beaut^'. 

Wherever  the  Maquis  approaches  the  shore  Thyme 
is  found  in  abundance.  It  carpets  the  ground  and  adorns 
it  with  countless,  small  and  modest  pink  blossoms.  An- 
other and  taller  Labiate,  Lavandula  Stoechas  (Fig.  p.  257), 
is  much  branched  and  its  violet  flower  spikes  rise  above 
the  small,  softly-felted  leaves.  What  we  chiefly  notice 
about  it,  however,  is  not  the  flowers  but  the  tuft  of  brilli- 
antly coloured  bracts  at  the  end  of  the  flower  spike.  It 
is  these  that  attract  the  pollen-carrying  insects,  for  the 
flowers,  which  are  ranged  in  vertical  rows  on  the  angles 
of  the  spike,  are  only  small  and  insignificant.  They  are 
of  such  a  dark  violet  as  to  appear  almost  black. 


e'lsns.  —  c^"nM  s  ini'ociSTis.  127 

L'istns  Inislics  altouiul  on  all  sides.  Tlie\'  arc  less 
than  a  \  aid  hi^h.  iiuuh  branched,  and  thickK'  covered 
\\  ith  hrow  nish-green.  viscous  leaves.  (/s//ts  inonspc/icnsis 
( '■  iiT-  P-  '^**'  'i'^^  white  llowers,  while  C.  a//)/'(//is  ( Fi{(.  p.  ^^) 
has  nuu'h  larj^er  pink  flowers.  The  blossoms  of  these  jilants 
are  e.\treniel\-  delicate.  Their  petals  are  tighth'  packed 
and  crunijiled  in  the  bud.  rhe\'  open  and  smootlie  out 
in  the  sunshine  and  spread  tlieir  numerous  \ellow  stamens. 
The  flowers  fade  ver\-  rapidh'  when  a  twig-  is  plucked. 
but  new  ones  open  on  it  when  placed  in  water.  The 
Cistus  bushes  contribute  not  a  little  to  the  characteristic 
odour  of  the  Macjuis  at  Antibes.  The  gum  which  exudes 
from  one  or  two  species  of  Cistus  was  formerly  a  famous 
remed\-  much  recommended  h\  (xreek  doctors  under 
the  name  of  Ladanum  or  Labdanum.  Xow  it  is  onh- 
used  lor  incense.  Towards  the  end  of  April  in  many 
places  on  the  Cap  careful  searching  on  the  ground  under 
the  Cistus  bushes  ma\-  reveal  a  ver\-  curious  plant  para- 
sitic upon  their  roots.  This  remarkable  parasite,  Cyiii/ns 
Ilypocislis  (Fig.  p.  lr>7),  will  be  known  b\-  its  flaming  red 
and  orange  colouring.  It  has  no  green  leaves:  it  has 
dispensed  with  these  because  it  no  longer  requires  to 
procure  its  own  nourishment.  All  the  other  members  of 
the  Raftlesiaceae,  to  which  this  C\tinus  belongs,  are 
tropical.  The\-  are  all  parasitic,  and  man\-  of  them  have  gi- 
gantic blossoms.  The  largest  flower  in  the  world  is  produced 
b}'  Raj]Jesia  Anioldi,  which  grows  upon  the  roots  of  certain 
climbing  Cistuses  in  Sumatra.  Sometimes  these  flowers 
are  a  ^■ard  in  diameter.  Cytiiiiis  Jlypocistis,  however,  is 
content   with   llowers  of  small   dimensions.     When  several 


128 THE  MASTIC. 

shoots  grow  close  together  the\'  look  as  though  orange 
coloured  Easter  eggs  had  been  placed  under  a  Cistus 
bush.  The  Rock-roses  {HeliantJionuni)  which  are  mem- 
bers of  our  own  flora,  are  closely  related  to  the  Cistus 
bushes.  Their  delicate,  sulphur-\'ellow  flowers  maA'  be 
seen  here  and  there  in  the  Maquis.  \  strongh'  armed 
bush  with  mellow  papilionaceous  flowers,  Calicotoine 
spinosa  (Fig.  p.  61)  rises  above  its  neighbours.  One  can 
see  at  a  glance  that  this  plant  must  be  closely  related  to 
the  Genista  acautJioclada,  that  scourge  of  Tartarus  which 
we  first  saw  in  La  Mortola  Gardens.  It  is  so  thickh' 
set  with  sharp,  thorn-like,  lateral  branches  that  one  has 
to  keep  clear  of  it  in  the  Mac|uis.  Another  plant  belong- 
ing to  the  same  order,  Spartiuiu  jiincciDu  (Fig.  p.  395)  the 
Spanish  Broom,  is  much  less  unapproachable.  This  almost 
leafless  plant  has  green,  rush-like  branches  and  large 
yellow  flowers.  Baskets,  nets  and  even  shoes  are  woven 
from  the  twigs  of  the  Spanish  Broom;  the  bast  is  used 
as  string  and  a  kind  of  linen  cloth  is  woven  from  it. 
The  Mastic  {Pistacia  Lcutisciis,  Fig.  p.  349),  is  ver\- 
common  in  the  Maquis  where  it  remains  stunted.  But 
under  other  conditions  it  can  develop  into  a  tree.  A  line 
Mastic  tree  with  dense,  umbrella-shaped  crown  may  be 
seen  from  the  Golfe  Jouan  road  in  the  garden  of  a  villa 
not  far  from  the  (jrand  Hotel  du  Cap.  The  tree  is 
characterised  by  its  dark-green,  pari-pinnate,  tough,  lea- 
ther \'  leaves,  which  are  shiny  above,  and  h\  its  resinous 
smell.  The  plant  is  dioecious,  bearing  either  staminate 
or  carpellary  flowers.  The  staminate  flowers  are  con- 
spicuous   in    spite    of  their  small  size  because  the}'  grow 


11  ii:  III  e"K  riioKN.  12-1 


in  close  set  clusters  and  are  dark  red  before  thev  are 
fully  developed.  'The  carpellary  tlowers  are  less  so 
because  e^reen  predominates  in  them.  As  these  flowers 
have  either  oiiI\-  stamens  or  carpels  and  both  sexes  are 
willioul  coloured  en\elopes  the\'  are  not  ada])ted  to 
insect  t'ertili/.ation  but  are  wind  fertilized.  The  "mastic"', 
famed  of  old.  is  obtained  from  the  Mastic  tr(H\  It  is, 
however,  not  got  trom  the  shrubs  of  the  Maquis  but  from 
carefulh'  cultivated  trees.  Thev  succeed  best  on  Chios, 
which  has  for  this  reason  been  called  "Mastic  island'".  The 
gum  which  exudes  from  incisions  made  in  the  stem,  and  also 
naturalh'  Irom  the  twigs,  is  used  chiefh-  in  the  East  where 
it  is  chewed  in  the  same  way  as  are  the  leaves  of  the 
Betel  in  India.  Mastic  is  said  to  strengthen  the  gums 
and  perfume  the  breath.  Turkish  ladies  of  the  upper 
class  spend  the  whole  day  chewing  mastic.  With  us 
mastic  is  used  in  tooth  powder  and  especialh-  for  incense 
and  in  the  making  of  varnish. 

The  evergreen  Buckthorn  (J^/ianiii2is  alafrnnts. 
Fig.  p.  M)T),  is  also  characteristic  of  the  Maquis.  Earl\-  in 
March  this  shrub  bears  dense  bunches  of  small  greenish- 
\ellow  tlowers,  and  later  red  berries.  These  latter,  however, 
are  not  found  on  ever\'  bush  as  this  plant  also  is  dioecious. 
Careful  examination  of  the  leathery  leaves  of  this  Buck- 
thorn will  show  at  their  base,  in  the  angles  of  the  \ena- 
lion,  small  protuberances  on  the  upper  side.  The  cavit\- 
in  these  opens  on  the  under  side  and  is  arched  cner 
with  hairs.  These  structures  are  called  "domatia""  because 
i\\c\  are  usualU-  occujiied  by  minute  insects  to  whi^-h 
the\'   ai-)])arentl\-   afford    shelter.      The  insects  are  said   on 


130  EUPHORBIAS. 


their  side  to  rid  the  leaf  of  fungoid  spores  and  microbes, 
and  are  thus  of  service  to  the  phmt.  Rhamnus  Alatenius 
was  known  to  Theophrastus  and  Pliny.  Its  leaves  and 
liowers  were  used  as  remedies  in  ancient  times.  Buck- 
thorn is  grown  as  an  ornamental  plant  in  our  gardens. 
The  northerner  who  visits  the  Mediterranean  is  sur- 
prised at  the  Bush  Spurge  (Enphorhia  dciidroides)  because 
his  own  Spurges  are  only  lowly  weeds.  At  Mentone 
Bush  Spurges  reach  two  }'ards  in  height,  and  their  trunks 
can  hardh'  be  encircled  with  both  hands.  The  plant 
forks  repeatedh'  in  the  course  of  its  growth  and  forms 
a  dome-like  shrub,  which  is  easil}-  recognised  at  a  distance 
bv  its  ^■ellow  colour.  It  is  one  of  the  most  curious  plant- 
forms  on  the  Riviera  and  is  found  not  only  in  the  Maquis 
but  distributed  over  the  whole  coast.  Dioscorides  and 
Plinv  both  mention  it.  During  the  summer  drought  this 
Spurge  sheds  its  leaves,  remaining  bare  as  do  our  indi- 
genous northern  trees  in  winter.  The  natives  of  the 
Riviera  throw  twigs  of  this  Spurge  into  water  to  stupify 
the  tish,  and  we  are  told  of  a  similar  practice  in  Greece. 
Euphorbia  spiiiosa  (Fig.  p.  181).  another  much  smaller, 
bush^-  Spurge,  grows  close  to  the  ground  in  the  Maquis. 
It  is  yellow,  like  the  larger  species,  and  derives  its  name 
from  the  tough  spines  formed  h\  the  dead  twigs.  Passer- 
iini  /lirsKta  (Fig.  p.  325),  one  of  the  Thymelaceae  which 
is  uncommon  elsewhere,  ma^'  be  known  by  its  small, 
tIesh^',  crowded  leaves,  its  hairy  white  drooping  twigs, 
and  small,  yellow,  inconspicuous  flowers.  It  is  common 
here  and  will  at  once  be  noticed  because  of  its  charac- 
teristic habit.    Only  solitary  specimens  of  the  Strawberry 


THE   ARBUTUS. 


131 


Tree    (^1/'-    /J 
luilu:>  I  nrdo, 
Fig.  p.  ^~)  are  found 
lierc,   but   it  is  f^ 

usually  ah- ^,,^:^^N^. 
undant  in  the  ( ^^^^'^NA-^ 
Ma^iuis.  Its 
stra\\"berr\-  -  like  fruits 
arc  sold  in  the 
markets  of  the  Riviera.  The  Ar- 
butus does  not  look  much  like  a 
Heath,  nevertheless  it  belongs 
to  the  same  family,  the  Erica- 
ceae. There  is  no  resemblance  in  the 
foliage,  but  the  structure  of  the  flowers 
is  similar.  These  latter  are  bell-shaped,  like  those  of 
the  Heath,  but  much  larger,  and  hang  down  in  pinkish- 
white  panicles.  The  evergreen,  ovate  leaves,  serrated 
at  the  edge,  are  ver\'  like  those  of  the  Laurel.  The 
fruits  ripen  very  slowh',  and  ma^'  often  be  seen  on  the 
tree  at  the  same  time  as  the  tiowers.  They  are  subacid 
but  insipid:  hence  Plin\-  calls  them  "Unedo"  from  ''unum 
tantum  edo''  (I  eat  onh'  one).  Arbutus  twigs  served 
the  Roman  populace  as  charms.  The  posts  and 
thresholds  of  doors  were  struck  three  times  witli 
these  twigs  to  prevent  the  entrance  of  vampires, 
which  were  believed  to  suck  the  heart -blood  from 
children  in  their  cradles.  A  twig  of  the  lucky  White- 
thorn placed  in  the  bedroom  window  likewise  kept  off 
these  unhoh'  creatures. 


132 THE  EVERGREEN   OAK. 

The  Evergreen  Oak  {Qncrcus  Ilex,  Fig.  p.  363)  is 
plentiful  everywhere  in  the  Maquis,  where  it  remains  a 
shrub.  Its  sharply  pointed,  oval  leaves  are  grey  beneath 
and  may  be  recognised  by  this  peculiarity.  The  edges 
of  the  leaves  may  be  either  serrate  or  entire.  Outside 
the  Maquis  the  Evergreen  Oak  grows  to  a  fine  tree.  In 
ancient  Rome  the  Civic  Crown  was  woven  from  its 
twigs.  Pliny  says  that  these  wreaths  were  valued  above 
all  others  —  even  the  most  costly.  In  the  Maquis,  side 
by  side  with  the  Evergreen  Oak,  is  found  the  Kermes 
Oak  {Quercus  coccifera,  Fig.  p.  359)  which  never  becomes 
arborescent  here.  It  is  rare  on  the  Cap  d'Antibes  but 
much  commoner  in  the  Maquis  of  the  Esterel.  There 
the  females  of  the  Kermes  Cochineal  i^Lecanium  Ilicis) 
are  still  collected  on  the  twigs  of  this  tree  before 
they  lay  their  eggs.  These  insects  are  a  reddish-brown, 
the  size  of  lentils  and  full  of  a  red  liquid.  A  crimson 
lact|uer  is  made  from  them  as  well  as  a  crimson  dye ; 
but  this  industry  is  now  no  longer  profitable.  The 
Kermes  is  distinguished  from  the  Evergreen  Oak  by  its 
small  leaves  which  are  green  beneath  and  have  spinous, 
serrate  edges.  The  stem  is  also  more  branched  and 
generally  keeps  close  to  the  ground. 

A  slender  Asparagus  (A.  aciitifolius^  Fig.  p.  45),  may 
be  found  trailing  over  some  of  the  bushes  in  the  Maquis. 
The  leafless  branches  stand  out  stiffly  from  the  woody, 
flexible  stems,  and  needle -like  twigs  take  the  place  of 
leaves.  This  Asparagus  is  much  used  on  the  Riviera 
for  decorating  and  it  is  twined  round  mirrors  and  chan- 
deliers in  the  dining  rooms.     The  young  shoots  are  eaten 


'r  1^  1-:  1-:  heath.  —  riiiLL.vR l:a. U3 

like  t)iir  Asparagus.  In  Sii'il\'  tlu'  tast\'  \ouiii(  shoots  ol  the 
]-)rickl\  "liutclier's  lirooin"  (/{/(srus  (irnlr(i/ns)  are  eaten 
as  "Asparai»'iis"":  and  these  were  considered  as  delicacies 
b\    the  ancients. 

Another  jilant  al\va\s  to  be  met  with  in  the  Maqnis. 
and  wliich  grows  here  on  the  Cap,  is  the  Tree  Heath, 
{J£ricii  arborca.  Fig.  ji.  173).  This  Erica,  which  in  (ireece 
was  considered  an  antidote  to  snake -bite,  is  \ery  like 
our  own  Ileatli  but  it  grows  up  more  than  a  yard  above 
the  surrounding  plants.  Clusters  of  small,  white  and 
nearlv  globular  llowers  with  deep  violet  stamens  hanging 
out  of  them,  deck  the  twigs  in  countless  numbers. 
Though  not  efficaceous  against  snake  -  bite  it  is  a  ta- 
vourite  with  bees,  and  its  wood\-  roots  are  used  for  car- 
ving and  especially  for  making  pipes. 

We  must  not  omit  the  Philhrea  {P/iillyrca  (mgustt- 
folia,  Fig.  p.  o4,y)  as  it  is  also  one  of  the  Maquis  plants. 
This  bush  grows  to  a  heiglit  of  from  one  to  two  yards 
and  is  characterised  bv  its  linear- lanceolate,  leathery 
leaves,  inclining  upwards,  and  its  small  white  tlowers 
which  are  crowded  together  in  close  set  clusters.  This 
bush  belongs  to  the  same  family  as  the  Olive  tree  which 
it  somewhat  resembles.  Cucoriou  tricoccuiu  (Fig.  p.  10/  ),  a 
bush  plentiful  on  the  Cap,  is  botanicall}-  interesting  as 
belonging  to  a  faniil\-  not  commonlv  represented  here  — 
the  Cneoraceae.  It  has  shin\-.  green,  lancet-shaped  leaves 
and  bears  small,  yellow  tlowers  in  twos  or  threes  at  the  end 
of  the  twigs.  This  plant  is  grown  in  mauA'  gardens  on  the 
Riviera  for  its  graceful  appearance  and  it  is  even  to  be 
seen  in  the  formal   Casino  gardens  at  Monte  Carlo. 


134  OTHER  MAQUIS  PLANTS. 


The  Juniper,  laden  witli  big  reddish  berries,  which 
grows  in  the  Maquis  is  '/.  O.wccdnis  (Fig.  p.  245).  Its 
berries  are  used  in  the  East  and  in  Greece  for  the  same 
purpose  as  those  of  our  own  Juniper.  The  wood  resists 
the  action  of  the  atmosphere  and  the  attacks  of  wood- 
worms, and  images  of  the  Gods  were  made  out  of  it  in 
ancient  times. 

In  places  where  the  vegetation  is  less  dense  the 
Glohularia  Alvpum  (Fig.  p.  207)  raises  its  prett^•  blue 
flower-heads  which  grow  at  the  ends  of  its  twi£fs. 

Where  the  ground  is  so  poor  that  other  plants 
cannot  subsist  the  Cladoiiia  alclcornis  forms  a  thick 
carpet.  This  grey  lichen  is  distributed  over  the  whole 
of  Europe,  N.   Africa,  N.  America  and  part  of  Asia. 

Ever\' where  in  the  Maejuis  at  Antibes  we  find  the 
shrubby  Olive.  Like  the  evergreen  Oak  the  Olive  has 
adapted  itself  to  the  Maquis  and  become  a  shrub.  It 
has  altered  so  much  that  even  the  ancients  distinguished 
it  b\-  the  name  of   Oleaster. 

The  Oleaster,  like  the  Myrtle,  ventures  very  close 
down  to  the  beach.  They  brave  the  violent  winds  from 
the  sea  and  are  often  rounded  b\'  these  as  though  they 
had  been  trimmed  by  hand.  The  branches  nearest  the 
sea  are  sometimes  actually  dead.  The  twigs  of  the 
Olive,  the  emblem  of  Peace,  become  spinous  in  the 
Oleaster.  They  are  so  sharp  and  formidable  that  they 
make  the  plant  almost  unapproachable. 

The  Smilax  aspera  (Fig.  p.  387),  called  "Italienische 
Stechwinde"  in  German,  is  alwa^'s  associated  with  the 
shrubs  of  the  Maquis  however    close    to    the    shore    the}' 


TLA  MS    liV    THE    SEA    SliORl': 


iiia\"  oTow.  tor  it  llnds  shelter  amonir  their  branches. 
Both  lea\es  and  stem  are  set  with  spines  which  facih- 
tati'  its  clinihin<»-.  The  Sniihix  llowers  in  the  autumn, 
and  in  tlie  sj-)rin<»"  is  adorned  with  clusters  ot  red  berries. 
( )ii  account  of  their  sweet  ]')erfume  llowcrino-  spra\'s  of 
this  plant  were  twined  into  o-;irlands  with  I\\'  for  the 
Hacchii.-    festi\als. 

'I'his  sketch  ma\-  serve  to  give  those  who  are  in- 
terested in  the  \arious  asj-)ects  of  vegetable  lite  an  idea 
of  the  character  of  tlie  Maijuis,  that  t\pical  development 
of  the   Mediterranean   flora. 

In  close  proximit\'  to  tlie  sea  the  reddish-brown 
earth  of  the  Cap  is  coloiu'ed  an  aluKist  uniform  gvev  b^• 
ciuantities  ot  a  much-branched,  xerv  hairw  prostrate 
shrub.  Onh'  the  withered  intiorescences  are  to  be  found 
on  this  plant  in  spring,  but  its  odour  is  so  characteristic 
that  we  at  once  recognise  it  as  HclicJirysiDu  Stocchas 
(Fig.  p.  227).  It  is  a  spic^'  smell  like  a  mixture  of  Worm- 
wood and  Liijuorice.  At  e\'er\-  step  we  take,  especialh" 
towards  evening,  the  volatile  oil  is  liberated  from  these 
plants,  and  we  walk,  as  it  were,  in  a  cloud  of  perfume. 
This  IIelichr\'sum  belongs  to  the  same  famih*  as  those 
plants  called  ■•Immortels",  and  ••Strohblumcn""  in  (icr- 
man.  In  the  summer  it  bears  shin\',  \'ellow,  scarious 
capitula  united  into  llat-topped  panicles,  which  were  used 
even  In-  the  ancients  to  weave  "everlasting"  wreaths.  In 
the  spring  tlie  uniform  gre\'  of  the  I  Ielichr\sum  bushes  on 
the  shore  is  relieved  hx  the  bright  Aellowllowers  of  the  Bird's 
foot  Trefoil  (I^o/iis  ornithopodioi'dc^s,  Fig.  p.  2S,-?).  which 
lie  close  on   the  stones  and  cover  them  in  great  prolusion. 


136     VEGETATION  ON  THE  POINTE  DE  L^ISLETTE. 

On  the  small  storm-lashed  promontor^•.  which  projects 
a  few  hundred  yards  further  into  the  sea  and  is  known 
as  Pointe  de  I'lslette,  we  find  that  all  vegetable  life 
gradually  vanishes.  In  this  exposed  position  the  struggle 
for  existence  becomes  ever  harder  for  plants,  and  the\- 
show  outward  signs  of  the  peril  in  which  the\'  live. 
Since  all  plants  which  rise  above  the  ground  here  are 
iable  to  be  destro\-ed,  advantage  is  taken  of  each 
crevice:  they  lie  prostrate,  their  stems  are  creeping 
and  knotted,  and  often  present  the  most  extraordinar\- 
appearance.  The  character  of  the  vegetation  is  remark- 
ably like  that  of  alpine  regions,  and  we  might  imagine 
ourselves  to  be  thousands  of  feet  above  sea  level  were 
it  not  for  the  blue  sea  washing  up  so  close  to  us.  The 
stunted  Maquis  plants  disappear  gradualh",  for  even  the\' 
can  exist  here  only  in  sheltered  clefts  in  the  rocks.  In 
many  places  we  still  find  a  \ellow  Lichen,  the  Lccidia, 
forming  round  spots  on  the  bare  rocks.  Further  on, 
where  the  sea  washes  up  on  all  sides  into  the  interstices 
of  the  weather-beaten  rocks,  we  are  confronted  b\-  quite 
different  representatives  of  the  Wgetable  A\'orld  —  the 
marine  algae,  those  dwellers  in  the  deep,  which  are  so 
rich  in  form  and  colour. 

On  our  return  we  are  struck  b^•  the  sharp  contrast 
between  this  barren  promontor^•  and  the  profusion  of 
foreign  plants  in  the  Hotel  garden.  In  front  of  the 
house  stand  exceptionalh-  fine  bushes  of  "Marguerites" 
(Chrysanthemuin  fnttcsce?is}  from  the  Canaries.  The\' 
are  rounded,  nearh-  two  yards  high  and  crowded  with 
thousands  of  white,  starlike,  raved  flower-heads.      Tcuc- 


PLANTS   IN    THE   IIOTICL   GARDEN. 


13; 


n'liDi  frit/ic(i/i^  forms   hedges  cvcrvvvhcre 
in  tlicse  gardens.    This  is  a  North-African 
shrub  witli  silvcr-gre\'  foHage  and  graceful 
blue  labiate  flo\vers.  j\Ialvastru)u  capcusc, 
a  Mallow  with  dark-red,    medium-sized 
flowers,   is  commonh'  met    with :     also 
the     South  -  African      Oslcospcnuuiii 
monilifcni)u,    a    big   shrubby  Com- 
posite   with  \ellovv  flower -heads:   and 
Polygala  niyrtifolia  from  the  Cape, 
a  shrub  familiar  in  our  greenhouses. 
It  bears  an  abundance  of  large  bright 
red   flowers   bordered  with  purple. 
These  resemble  the  papilionaceous 
t\'pe  although  the\'  belong  to  a  very 
different  order,  the  ]Milkwort  or  Poly- 
gala   famih'.       The     South- African 
jSfeliaiitJius  nia/'or  has  spread  widely 
in  the  gardens  round  the  Hotel.    It 
is    a     rather    ornamental     plant,     of 
peculiar    structure    and    appearance, 

Cystoseira 

ericoides.  whicli  glvcs  its  name  to  the  order. 
In  botanical  characters  it  approaches  the  Bal- 
samineae.  JMeliaullius  major  is  a  shrubb^■  plant 
reaching  a  height  of  two  \'ards.  and  bearing  large, 
glaucous,  pinnate  leaves  with  serrated  edges,  and  terminal 
clusters  of  close-set  reddish -brown  flowers.  The  odour 
of  these  is  not  ver\'  pleasant.  In  shape  the\-  remind 
one  of  winged  insects.  Tlle^'  secrete  such  a  quantit\' 
of   nectar   that    it    falls   in    drops    if   the    plant    is   shaken. 


138  PLANTS  IN  THE  HOTEL  GARDEN. 

Sun -birds,  (Xectari)iia),  hover  round  these  plants  to 
suck  the  honey  and  thus  effect  polHnation.  This  fact 
adds  interest  to  the  plant,  as  flowers  pollinated  by  birds 
are  rare.  The  thick  fleshy  stems  and  leaves  of  the 
South-African  Mesembryanthemum  (M.  acinaciforme) 
hang  over  the  terraces  and  open  their  large,  brilliant, 
red  flowers  in  the  sunshine.  Side  by  side  with  these 
grows  the  yellow-flowered  species,  M.  edtile,  which  has 
somewhat  smaller  leaves  and  flowers.  The  flesh^'  fruits 
of  these  plants  are  eaten  in  their  native  country  as 
"Hottentot's  Figs".  The  Hottentots  are  said  to  preserve 
the  juic\'  leaves  in  vinegar  like   Gherkins. 

In  the  immediate  neighbourhood  of  the  house  the 
garden  is  carefully  kept,  but  the  outh-ing  part  is  more 
or  less  left  to  itself.  Here  a  curious  struggle  for  space, 
light  and  subsistence  takes  place  between  plants  of  all 
latitudes  brought  together  \)\  chance.  The  Australian 
Casuarinas  are  crowded  b^'  the  American  Pepper-tree ; 
the  Japanese  Pittosporum  competes  with  the  Mediter- 
ranean Tamarisk.  The  indigenous  shrubs  have  here  and 
there  to  give  way  to  the  Australian  Acacias  and  Euca- 
lypti, the  African,  yellow-flowered,  shrubby  Medic 
(M.  arborea)  and  the  strongly-armed  Genistas  {G.  ferox). 
But  amongst  all  these  the  Aleppo  Pine  (Pinus  hale- 
pensis),  with  delicate  needles,  and  the  Maritime  Pine 
(Puiiis  Pinaster)  with  more  rigid  leaves,  assert  themselves 
and  form  a  transition  to  the  Maquis. 

These  two  Pines,  met  with  everywhere  on  the 
Riviera,  may  also  be  distinguished  by  their  cones;  for 
those  of  the  Aleppo  are  smaller  and  less  substantial  than 


nil-:  PR( )Ci:ssK)N  catjlki'illak.         139 

tliosc  i)t  llie  Mariliiiu'  I'iiH\  Tlu'  Aleppo  predominates 
on  ilu'  \\  I'siern  Riviera,  lor  tlie  calcareous  soil  suits  it; 
but  the  Maritime  Pine  jirelers  quartz  antl  i^ranite  soil. 
I'he  cones  ot  the  .Nhuitime  I'ine  are  used  on  the  Ri^•iera 
tor  liirhtiniif  fires.  Tliose  ol  tlie  P.  Piiica,  which  are 
roundish  and  considerahK  larcrer.  are  often  used  for  t]ie 
same   purpose. 

'i'he  ••Procession  caterpillar'',  larva  of  the  moth 
CnctJioccnupa  J^itoraiiipti .  is  onl\-  too  common  amon<r  the 
Pines  on  the  Cap  d"Antibes  and  else^\■here  on  the  Riviera. 
These  cater]iillars  are  black  w  ith  brown  stripes.  Plundreds 
of  them  w  alk  in  single  file  o\er  the  roads,  one  touching 
tlie  otlier  and  forming  a  long  string  \\hich  moves  forward 
like  a  li\ing  chain.  If  the  chain  is  broken  the  front 
portion  halts  and  the  back  advances.  The  first  larva  of 
the  rear  section  seeks  to  re-form  the  line  b\-  feeling 
about.  It  he  succeeds  in  fmding  the  front  section  the 
wiiole  chain  moves  on  again.  These  caterpillars  cause 
great  damage  to  the  Pine  trees:  the\-  often  eat  them 
quite  bare.  During  the  da\-  thev  remain  in  their  large 
grey  nests,  which  are  so  conspicuous  on  the  Pines  and 
look  so  silky  in  the  sunshine.  At  night  thev  leave  their 
nests  in  search  of  food.  The  caterpillars  we  see  crawling 
on  the  ground  are  seeking  a  suitable  spot  in  which  to 
pupate.  It  is  dangerous  to  touch  cither  the  caterpillars 
or  their  nests,  for  the  hairs  penetrate  the  skin  and  set 
up  serious  inflammation.  Therefore  those  people  who 
have  to  rid  the  trees  of  these  nests  keep  to  the  wind- 
ward side  and  take  every  precaution.  The  best  plan 
is    to    pour    petroleum   into    the    nests    without    removing 

6 


140  STORM  ON  THE  CAP  D'ANTIBES. 


them.  The  nests  of  these  caterpillars  up  among-  the 
twigs  and  their  long  processions  on  the  ground  can 
hardly  escape  the  notice  of  visitors  to  the  Riviera.  But 
only  the  initiated  are  acejuainted  with  the  imago  into 
which  they  develop.  The  moths  are  grey  with  darker 
spots  and  narrow  stripes  and  are  neither  striking  nor 
pretty.  The^'  ti^•  in  the  height  of  summer  and  lay  their 
eggs  on  the  underside  of  the  Pine  needles,  covering  them 
with  thin,  silver^■-grey  scales. 

CHAPTER  X. 

Those  who  have  witnessed  a  storm  on  the  Cap 
d'Antibes  will  never  forget  it.  The  magnificent  spec- 
tacle of  the  unchained  elements  compensates  one  for  the 
bad  weather  which  has  gone  before.  A  strong  wind 
begins  to  blow  from  the  sea,  the  air  becomes  marvel- 
lously clear  and  all  objects  appear  nearer.  The  outlines 
of  the  mountains  look  as  though  the\'  were  traced  with 
pencil  on  the  sk^-.  In  places  sheltered  from  the  wind 
it  is  oppressiveh'  sultry.  Then  the  horizon  is  enveloped 
in  lurid  mist.  The  wind  gradualh'  subsides  and  the 
whole  sk\-  becomes  overcast.  Large  drops  of  rain  patter 
against  the  window-panes.  This  continues  for  several 
da\'s  and  keeps  ever^'one  indoors.  The  temperature  falls 
gradually  and  beside  the  scantA'  parlour  fire  one  longs 
for  the  warmer  stove  at  home.  But  next  morning  we 
awake  dazzled  by  the  blue  and  radiant  sky.  We  hasten 
out  and  inhale  the  pure,  refreshing  air.  All  the  plants 
are  still  shining  with  the  recent  rain,  and  sparkling  like 
diamonds  the  drops  run  off  the  leaves.     The  surf  dashes 


STORM  ON   THE  CAP  DANTIP.KS.  141 


heuviU  against  tlie  rocks  on  the  shore  as  though  seeking 
to  siiatter  them.  The  thundering  roar  of  the  impact 
can  be  heard  trom  atar.  The  point  ol  the  Cap  can  no 
longer  be  reached  as  the  waves  are  washing  right  o\er 
it.  ( )ut  on  the  sk\-hne  a  biUow  rises  Hke  a  great  wall. 
Swelling  as  it  approaches,  it  luirls  itself  onto  tlie  land 
to  fall  back  brt)ken  and  coxered  with  white  foam.  It 
meets  another  eijualK  threatening  wa\e  and  both  dis- 
appear for  awliile.  Then  a  calm  ensues,  for  an  ad- 
vancing and  a  retreating  w;ne  ha\'e  met  and  annulled 
each  other.  But  when  two  ad\ancing  waves  combine 
the\-  surge  up  mightiU'  and  dash  themselves  on  the  rocks 
with  curving  crest.  Masses  of  water  are  thrown  alott  and 
sea  and  sk\-  are  mingled  in  the  chaos.  ^\  ith  a  dull  roar  as 
of  hea\\-  cannonading  the  waves  surge  through  the  caves 
which  the\-  themselves  have  fashioned  in  the  rocks.  All  round 
us  there  is  a  gurgling,  groaning  sound  from  the  numberless 
streamlets  making  their  wa\'  back  to  the  sea  through  the 
clefts  and  stonx'  iissures  of  the  rock.  Beset  on  all  sides  by 
the  raging  elements,  we  seem  almost  to  be  floating  in  the 
open  sea,  and  are  gripped  b\-  the  terror  of  the  storm.  How 
pleasant  it  is  to  feel  the  firm  ground  beneath  one's  feet ! 
It  is  man\-  da\s  before  the  agitation  of  the  waves 
subsides  and  the  broad  surface  of  the  sea  returns  to 
peace  and  rest.  Ever  changing,  vet  ever  tlie  same,  this 
divine   Mediterranean   fascinates   and   delights  us! 

CHAPTER   XI. 

The  walks  around  the    baA  s,    on    the    slopes    of    the 

hills,  and  among  the  gardens  of  the  Cap   d'Antibes    are 

h* 


142     FLOWERS  EXPORTED  FROM  THE  RIVIERA. 

very  beautiful  and  so  varied  that  the\'  invite  us  to  new 
excursions  daily.  The  views  of  the  coast,  the  mountain 
range  and  the  snow\-  summits  of  the  Alps  change  unceas- 
ingly, and  we  are  ever  pleasantly  surprised  b}'  some 
specially  picturesque  grouping  of  rocks  or  new  aspects 
of  vegetation.  Even  a  walk  on  the  high  road,  else- 
where so  monotonous,  is  enjoyable  on  this  favoured 
peninsula  —  at  least  on  the  road  which  crosses  the  Cap, 
for  it  runs  through  endless  plantations  of  Anemones, 
Ranunculi,  Wallflowers,  Stocks,  A'cr/'cissi/s  Tazetia  and 
Mignonette.  The  eye  is  particularly  attracted  by  the 
splendour  of  the  Anemones  and  Ranunculi,  which  can 
nowhere  be  seen  in  greater  perfection.  And  our  sense 
of  smell  is  gratified  at  the  same  time  b\'  the  perfume 
wafted  from  this  sea  of  Howers,  over  which  butterflies 
—  those  flowers  of  the  air  —  hover  in  great  numbers. 
Orange-tips,  the  'Kjlory  of  Provence"  {AiitliorJiaris 
Etiphciwidcs,  Fig.  p.  143),  flv  swiftU-  b^^  and  black-striped 
Swallow-tails  iyPapilio  Podali'rius)  sail  leisureh*  to  and 
fro.  But  it  is  the  Cleopatra  {Rhodoccra  Cleopatra, 
Fig.  p.  143)  a  South  European  Brimstone  with  front  wings 
suffused  with  brilliant  orange,  which  strikes  us  most  bv 
its  beauty. 

Great  quantities  of  cat  flowers  are  dispatched  to 
the  North  daily  from  the  Cap  d'Antibes,  which  also 
supplies  the  neighbouring  markets  on  the  Riviera.  We 
realise  how  much  flowers  are  used  on  the  Riviera  itself 
when  we  have  seen  the  flower-markets  in  the  towns  and 
witnessed  some  of  the  floral  fetes.  The  export  of  flowers 
to  the  North  has    assumed    enormous    proportions.     The 


FLOWER  GROWING. 


143 


4 


.  \nthocharis 
liiijihcnoidcs 


rise  of  this  inclustr\-  dates  back  no  furtlier 
than  1S50  on  the  Ri\icra.  Hctore  that  \ 
tiovvers  were  grown  only  for  tlie 
scent  manufactories.  The  gaA' 
phmtations  begin  near  l^oulon  and 
extend  as  far  as  Genoa.  The  French 
side  of  the  Riviera  has  alread\'  been  converted 
into  one  continuous  flower-garden.  At  Ollioules,  near 
Toulon,  the  Roman  Hyacinth  flowers  very  earh-  in  tlie 
spring  and  finds  its  wa\'  to  the  northern  markets  before  the 
Dutch  Hyacinth  appears.  Narcissi,  Jont[uils,  Tazettas  and 
white  and  red  Carnations  soon  follow  at  Ollioules.  At 
Grasse,  Cannes  and  Antibes  Anemones  and  Ranunculi 
predominate.  These  are  of  unusual  size  and  colour. 
The  size  attained  by  the  Carnations  (known  as  Dia/it/ius 
Caryophyllus  jJore  plcuo,  var.  Marguerite),  in  this  fa- 
voured climate  is  astonishing.  Many  of  the  blossoms 
look  like  small  posies.  Besides  the  above-mentioned, 
Stocks,  Wallflowers,  Mignonette,  Sparaxis,  Ixias,  Gladioli 
and  the  Tea  Rose  —  the  cjueen  of  flowers  —  are  grown. 
^  The  dark  yellow  Safrano  is   the  handsomest  of 

the  Tea  Roses;  it  withstands  rough  weather 

and  shows  buds  even 

in  December.  Equal- 

h'      satistact()r\-      are 

many    of    the    MontliK 

Roses,    the   white  Jh^no-al- 

Diicher  and  the  vedBeno-al- 

\inglanf,  which  are  prefer- 

Rhodocera  cicoj>atra.  red  ou   accouut  of    their  earh' 


144  ACACIAS. 

flowering.  The  more  delicate  kinds,  such  as  the  Marcchal 
Niel,  Marie  van  Houtte,  Gloire  de  Dijon,  Souvenir  de  la 
Malmaison,  Paul  Xahon?iand  and  La  France,  which  adorn 
our  gardens  in  summer,  thrive  on  sunny  walls  and  under 
glass.  Large  areas  are  thus  covered  in  at  Cannes  and 
Antibes.  Hundreds  of  thousands  of  these  flowers  blossom 
in  a  single  day  in  spring  at  these  two  places  ■ —  often  when 
there  is  no  possibiUty  of  turning  them  to  account.  In 
Cannes  Acacia  dealhata  is  being  more  and  more  culti- 
vated and  exported  to  the  North.  Its  balls  of  flowers 
united  into  sprays  and  its  delicately  pinnate  leaves  have 
obtained  for  it  the  name  of  "Mimosa"  in  the  trade. 
The  tree  grows  with  astonishing  rapidit}',  attaining  a 
height  of  ten  yards  in  five  or  six  years.  As  early  as 
January  these  trees  are  smothered  in  yellow  flowers. 
Acacia  retinoides  is  sent  to  Germany  in  quantities  ;  it  has 
balls  of  flowers  like  the  other  species,  but  simple, 
leather^-,  lanceolate  leaves.  In  realit\'  these  leaf-like 
organs  are  not  leaves  but  flattened  leaf-stalks.  For  com- 
parison with  other  species  of  xA-cacia  shows  that  the  leaf- 
blades  have  disappeared  and  been  replaced  by  the 
dilated  petioles.  Structures  of  this  kind  are  called  pliA'l- 
lodes.  Acacia  longifolia,  which  is  often  seen  in  our 
northern  flower-shops,  also  has  these  phyllodes.  This 
species  is  easily  distinguished,  for  the  flowers,  instead 
of  being  united  into  balls,  form  catkin-like  inflorescences 
resembling  caterpillars.  The  flowers  of  all  these  Acacias 
are  yellow.  They  blossom  in  succession  on  the  Riviera, 
Acacia  cultriformis  being  last.  This  does  not  reach  its 
full  perfection  until  March.     Its  inflorescence  is  spherical 


Fi,n\vi:RS  r.xroR'iM:i)  from  thr  ki\'ii:ra.    i  in 

and  its  pin  llodcs  are  short.  bri)ad  and  lozeiii^e-shaped. 
The  universal  tavourite  —  Mignonette  —  is  al\va\s 
among  the  tlowers  sent  awa}'.  \'iolets  do  not  stand  a 
long  journex  well,  but  great  quantities  ol  them  are  used 
on  the  Riviera  itself.  The^  are  also  candied  and  made 
into  sweetmeats.  Blue  Cornflowers,  Tuberoses,  Wall- 
flowers. Stocks,  (iladioli,  white  Allium.  Ixias  and  perfumed 
b'reesias  are  all  exported.  \'isitors  will  be  struck  hv  a 
large  Iris  often  to  be  seen  in  the  windows  of  flower 
shops  on  the  Riviera.  This  Jr/s  Su^'naz/a  is  minutely 
speckled  with  purple  and  is  a  regular  mourning-flower. 
The  white  and  ^  ellow  flowers  of  the  big  Chrysanthemum 
(C.  fn</csccns)  are  much  in  request,  especialh-  the  ^•ellow 
ones,  which  are  known  as  "Etoile  d'or''.  l"he^'  find 
their  wax  chiefK-  to  England,  where  the  demand  for 
these  flowers  continues  until  June  —  as  long  as  the 
London  season  lasts.  It  has  been  calculated  that  Cannes 
and  Antibes  alone  exported  more  than  fort\'  thousand 
pounds  worth  of  cut  flowers  to  the  Xorth  in  one  winter. 
Their  sale  on  the  Ri\iera  itself  is  much  greater  than  this. 
Keen  competition  is  alwa^•s  inciting  inventive  minds  to 
produce  new  "creations'"  for  the  flower-market.  Thus 
green  Carnations  made  their  aj^j'jearance  in  the  Paris 
markets  as  a  novelty,  and  in  fact  no  such  thing  had 
been  seen  before  unless  it  be  in  the  pictures  of  the 
Impressionists.  P>ut  it  transpired  that  these  green  Car- 
nations were  not  entirelv  natural  products.  They  where 
obtained  b}-  keeping  white  Carnations  with  their  stalks 
in  a  coloured  solution  for  a  day,  or  longer.  To  succeed 
thoroughly  the  end  of  the  stalk    must    be    several    times 


146       EILEN  ROCK  AND  THURET  GARDENS. 

re -cut  while  under  the  sokition.  Other  colours  can  be 
obtained  in  the  same  manner,  but  colouring  matter  must 
be  chosen  which  can  be  absorbed  b\-  the  plant.  The 
most  successful  of  these  experiments  is  tlie  tintine;-  of 
white  flowers  with  red  bv  eosin. 

There  is  much  traffic  on  the  roads  of  the  Cap 
d'Antibes  on  Tuesdays  and  Fridays.  Carriages  come 
from  all  parts  bringing  visitors  to  Eilen  Rock:  this  garden 
is  open  on  the  atternoons  of  those  da^'s.  The  garden 
includes  the  first  promontory  of  the  Cap  east  of  the  (jrand 
Hotel.  Tt  is  terminated  by  steep  rocks  which  fall  preci- 
pitously to  the  sea.  Steps  and  paths  in  the  rock  lead 
down  to  the  water.  Owing  to  its  prominent  position  the 
garden  commands  splended  views;  it  is  moreover  rich 
in  beautiful  plants.  Laid  out  with  much  taste  and  skill 
the  garden  delights  man^'  a  visitor;  but  to  the  nature- 
lover  it  will  perhaps  seem  a  little  artificial,  especialh'  amid 
these  grand  surroundings. 

On  Thursdays  also  the  Thuret  gardens,  which  so 
charmed  Georges  Sand,  are  open  from  early  morning. 
The  French  Government  now  uses  this  as  a  Botanic  Garden 
for  experiments  in  acclimatisation,  and  there  are  ver\' 
many  valuable  plants  in  it.  We  find  here  even  finer 
specimens  of  some  of  the  species  we  had  admired  at  La 
Mortola.  The  plants  from  S.  W.  Africa,  S.  W.  AustraHa, 
Central  China  and  California  thrive  best  in  this  garden 
as  elsewhere  on  the  Riviera,  for  the  Mediterranean  climate 
most  closely  resembles  that  of  those  regions.  We  also 
see  plants  from  other  countries,  but  these  flourish  mainly 
by  reason  of  the  care  bestowed  upon  them. 


CAr  UANTIBES. 147 

B\  turning-  down  westward  from  tlie  Thuret  Ciardens 
tho  road  wliich  leads  to  Golfe  jouan  is  easil}-  reached. 
Following-  this  we  come  to  the  Pine-wood  which  stretches 
aloiif  the  coast.  This  wood  was  once  the  pride  of  the  Cap, 
hut  onl\'  fraq"nu'nts  of  it  now  remain.  A  company  has 
Itoiiirht  the  lantl.  and  tln-oui(h  the  Pine-wood  a  road  has 
been  made  wliich  connects  Cannes  and  the  Cap  d'Antibes. 
The  wood  itself  has  been  enclosed  b\-  a  wire  fence  and 
divided  into  lots.  But  man\-  a  might\-  tree  still  stands 
under  whose  shadow  we  realise  the  former  grandeur  of 
this  grove. 

CHAPTER  Xli. 

It  was  now  mid  April  and  dut\-  called  me  home. 
A  wondrous  briglit  spring  da\'  was  drawing  to  its  close. 
Desirous  of  contemplating  the  sunset  once  more  from  the 
highest  point  on  the  Cap.  I  took  the  shortest  way  through 
the  Pines  to  the  eastern  shore  intending  to  ascend  to  the 
lighthouse  from  the  side  nearest  the  sea.  I  was  soon  sur- 
rounded bv  the  aromatic  plants  of  the  ^hlquis:  the  flowers 
of  the  Rosemar\-  (Fig.  p.  371)  and  Cistus  (Fig.  p.  S3)  and 
the  shining  leaves  of  the  Pistachias  (F"ig.  p.  349).  The  flame 
coloured  Cytimis  Ilyporisiis  (Fig.  p.  157)  was  growing  in 
profusion  on  the  roots  of  the  Cistus  buslics.  forming  a 
deep  orange  patch  on  the  red-brown  earth.  Most  ot  the 
shoots  were  full\-  developed,  so  that  the  bracts  were  no 
longer  crowded  together  as  in  the  bud,  and  the  ilowers 
were  open.  Cistus  still  lined  the  path  mingled  with 
Lavender  (Fig.  p.  2.^7)  andTh\-me  wliich  strongh-  pertumed 
the  air.    .\  blue  Salvia,   .S'.  /loDiiiiioic/cs  (Fig.  \).  37.^).  grew 


148  SUNSET  FROM  CAP  D'ANTIBES. 

in  all  the  clearings,  also  a  charming,  silver\-gre\-, 
hairy,  Mediterranean  Bindweed,  Convolvulus  althaeotdes, 
Fig.  p.  11')),  which  was  alread\'  closing  its  pink  corollas 
in  anticipation  of  approaching  nightfall.  Beside  a 
dilapidated  coast-guard  shelter  on  the  shore  I  saw 
several  plants  of  the  tree  Mallow  {Lavatera  arhorca, 
Fig.  p.  263).  This  line  Mallow  bears  a  profusion  of  violet 
flowers  in  spring  and  has  the  appearance  of  a  small  tree. 
It  is  not  unfrequenth'  met  with  on  the  Cap.  Though  not 
originally  wild  here  it  is  nevertheless  thoroughly  established, 
as  is  the  shrubby,  glaucous  Atriplex  Halimus  which  often 
forms  thick  hedges  b^'  the  sea.  On  the  ascent  towards  the 
lighthouse  I  also  found  a  Jasmine  ('J.  fruticans,  Fig.  p.  233), 
a  tall  indigenous  shrub.  Those  who  expect  the  flowers 
to  be  strongh'  perfumed  will  be  disappointed,  for  this 
plant  differs  from  other  Jasmins  in  having  little  scent. 
As  I  reached  the  Chapel  on  the  top  the  sun  was  about  to 
sink  behind  the  Esterel  and  bathed  the  dark  blue  summits 
in  gold  and  purple.  Soon  the  path  of  the  vanished  orb 
could  be  traced  onh'  b^■  the  Ion"-  streamers  of  lipfht  which 
radiated  from  the  spot.  I  was  depressed  rather  than 
delighted  by  the  grandeur  of  the  spectale,  for  to  me  it 
meant  larewell.  I  turned  \\\\  eyes  to  the  sfiant  mountains 
whose  phantom  outlines  towered  against  the  eastern  sk^^ 
The\-  were  coloured  \i\  the  sunset  fjlow.  It  was  a  sublime 
spectacle  in  which  one  loses  oneself,  carried  awa\'  h\  that 
immeasurable  longing  which  unites  us  with  the  All. 
Personalit}'  was  absorbed  in  the  powerful  sentiment  of 
union  with  the  Divine  in  Xature.  Farther  the  shadows 
spread  and  farther  on  the  land :     they  climbed  the  hills, 


Sl'NSF/r    [-KOM    LAP   D'ANTIBES.  149 

the\-  scak'tl  llu-  lici^lits:  i1k'\-  pii-rcccl  the  depths  of  the 
vallexs,  enveloping"  in  darkness  iioth  j^ahice  and  cottage. 
All  Xature  sank  to  sleep.  vSoon  the  onl\-  lights  were 
those  wliich  touched  the  rose-red  summits  of  the  snowy 
Alps  and  the  solitary  sails  upon  the  sea.  Then  a  dark 
shade  sank  upon  the  'deej:).  and  it  was  granted  onh'  to 
those  cjiants  there  alott  to  behold  the  ivord  of  Li<>ht. 
ikirning  as  it  were,  with  inward  lire.  the\'  tloated  in  a 
glor\    which   is   not  of  this  world. 

I  closed  my  eyes  and  turned  awa\-  wishing  to  retain 
this  scene  in  mv  mind  as  a  last  impression  of  the  Riviera. 
When  I  at  length  looked  up  tlie  dark  veil  of  night  had 
fallen  even  on  the  summits  and  all  outlines  were  blurred 
and  fantastic.  High  above  me  the  lighthouse  flashed 
like  a  meteor  far  over  land  and  sea,  a  beacon  for  the 
longing  gaze  of  those  who  have  once  visited  this  sublime  spot. 


.^•''a*^ 


8EC0XT)  JOniXEY. 


CHAPTER  I. 


Ihe  early  Spring  of  1894,  which  I  spent  on  the 
Riviera,  is  impressed  on  my  memory  as  one  of 
particularly  brilliant  colouring.  For  weeks  the  sky  was 
cloudless  and  shed  its  golden  light  upon  the  earth.  The 
Mistral,  that  ic^■  wind  which  comes  down  from  the  snowy 
slopes  of  the  Alps  and  the  Cevennes,  rarely  blew  as  there 
was  but  little  snow  on  the  mountains.  The  sea  was  calm, 
and  at  night  when  the  stars  twinkled  they  were  as  bril- 
liantly retlected  in  the  still  waters  as  though  a  second 
harvest  of  them  had  sprung  up  in  the   deep. 

We  arrived  at  Hveres  in  the  middle  of  March,  inten- 
ding soon  to  make  our  wa\-  westward  to  the  Montagues 
des  Maures.  We  felt  as  though  we  were  starting  on  a 
voyage  of  discovery,  so  little  is  the  western  end  of  the 
Riviera  known.  And  yet  Ilyeres  could,  next  to  Mont- 
pellier  and  Aix-en-Provence,  once  pride  herself  on  being 


152 HYERES. 

the  most  famous  health  resort  in  the  South  of  France. 
In  those  days  it  seemed  hardlv  possible  to  penetrate 
further  east  on  the  Riviera;  and  not  until  fifty  years  ago, 
when  circumstances  changed,  did  first  Nice  and  then 
Mentone  and  Cannes  begin  to  flourish  as  health  resorts. 
In  the  competition  which  now  arose  Hyeres  was  bound 
to  succumb,  for  she  is  not  so  well  sheltered  ag-ainst  the 
north  wind  and  the  Mistral  as  are  her  rivals.  She  is 
inferior  to  them  also  in  beaut^'  of  situation  and  is  too 
far  from  the  sea.  "The  hills  here  are  too  low  and  too 
near,  the  coast  too  level  and  the  sea  too  far  off"  — 
exclaimed  Georges  Sand  when  she  visited  Hyeres.  From 
the  hill  on  which  the  town  lies  the  sea  can  only  be  seen 
across  a  broad  tract  of  low  land.  On  this,  angular 
reddish-brown  fields,  unrelieved  bv  mellows  or  greens, 
stand  out  in  glaring  contrast.  These  fields  are  Rose 
plantations;  but  even  our  prediliction  for  this  flower  does 
not  blind  us  to  the  want  of  harmon^'  in  the  colouring 
of  the  landscape.  The  tints  of  these  Rose  plantations 
at  this  time  of  year  are  not  due  to  the  splendour  of 
the  blossoms,  but  to  the  young  shoots  which  are  very 
red.  The  red  colouring  matter  absorbs  the  greatest 
number  of  warm  rays;  this  is  an  advantage  in  spring 
when  evaporation  is  increased  and  the  circulation  of  the 
sap,  which  is  necessary  to  the  health^'  development  of 
the  plant,  is  promoted. 

In  earlier  days  the  outlook  over  the  plains  of  Hyeres 
must  have  been  pleasanter:  at  least  Horace  Benedict 
de  Saussure  was  greatly  charmed  when  he  saw  it  in  1787. 
This  eminent  Geologist,  father  of  the  more  famous  Physio- 


ANX'IENT   OLHIA.  \5:^ 

logical  botanist  Theoclore  de  Saussurc,  arrived  hcri'  on  a 
lovch-  April  evening  and  was  spell-bound  b\  the  beaut\- 
of  the  situation.  From  the  windows  of  the  "Auberge  du 
Saint  Esprit"  he  looked  down  on  Orange  groves  which 
were  in  the  full  sjilendour  of  fruit  and  blossom,  and 
enlivened  b\  innumerable  nightingales.  The  land  lell  awa\ 
gradualh  to  the  sea.  so  he  wrote,  and  the  slope  was 
adorned  in  the  foreground  hv  gardens,  with  Olive  gro- 
ves bex'ond  and  Poplars  in  the  distance.  Wooded  heights 
formed  a   frame  to  tliis  loveh"  picture. 

Hveres  is  fne  kilometres  from  the  shore  on  which 
formerh'  stood  Olbia.  whence  HAeres  had  its  origin. 
Founded  b\-  Massiliots  and  destro^■ed  b\'  Saracens,  this 
town  was  rebuilt  on  the  heights  further  from  the  sea, 
that  it  might  not  be  so  directh'  exposed  to  the  attacks 
of  the  Corsairs.  The  site  of  ancient  Olbia  is  now  divided, 
like  a  chess-board,  into  squares.  These  are  flooded  w  ith 
sea  water,  which  is  left  to  evaporate  in  the  liot  summer 
sun  for  the  sake  of  the  salt  which  is  deposited.  Opposite 
are  the  Islands  of  Iheres  stretched  out  as  though  sleeping 
peacefulh'  in  the  sea.  The  Ligurians  once  obtained  from 
these  islands  the  red  coral  with  whicli  the\'  adorned  the 
necks  of  their  women  and  the  belts  of  their  swords.  And  be- 
cause of  the  Laz'aiuiida  StoccJias  (Fig.  p.  257),  which  grew 
here  in  irreat  abundance,  these  islands  were  in  ancient  times 
called  "Stoechades".  The  perfume  of  this  species  ot  La- 
vender was  formerh'  much  prized.  The  plant  owes  its  name 
to  the  arrangement  of  its  flowers  in  vertical  ranks.  In  the 
Middle  Ages  tlie  Stoechades  changed  their  name  for  the 
high-sounding  one  of  the  "'Golden  Isles".  Was  it  the  ( lolden 


1_54 ORANGE  GROVES  OF  HYERES. 

Apples  of  the  Hesperides  or  the  golden  gleam  of  its 
shimmering  soil  which  procured  for  these  islands  the  name 
ot  "lies  d'or"?  Xo  one  can  decide  that  now.  When 
Francis  I  created  the  Marquisate  of  the  "'lies  d'or",  these 
islands  saw  brilliant  times.  Now  the^'  are  inhabited  onh' 
bv  poor  fishermen  and  market  gardeners.  Those  fruits 
from  which  the  Golden  Isles  seek  to  derive  their  name 
have  now  almost  vanished  from  the  neighbourhood.  But 
at  one  time  the  Orange  groves  of  PI\'eres  had  a  great 
reputation.  More  than  200,000  Orange  trees  covered 
the  district  and  were  well  calculated  to  awaken  the 
veonder  of  travellers. 

Chroniclers  relate  how  Charles  IX  of  France,  standing 
in  astonishment  before  the  largest  Orange  tree,  requested 
his  two  companions,  the  King  of  Xavarre  and  the  Duke 
of  Anjou,  to  help  him  to  span  round  the  tree.  But  the 
six  princeh'  arms,  we  are  told,  failed  to  stretch  so 
far!  In  remembrance  of  this  illustrious  embrace  "Caroli 
regis  amplexu  glorior"  was  cut  into  the  bark;  and  the 
inscription  grew  and  increased  with  the  vears.  Who 
now  can  tell  whether  this  storv  rests  on  an^'  basis  of 
fact!  —  However  it  is  certain  that  the  Chroniclers  were 
led  by  their  liveh'  Provencal  imagination  to  over  estimate 
the  thickness  of  the  trunk.  The  finest  Orange  trees  now 
known  in  Europe  are  in  Sardinia.  Some  of  these  are 
thoupfht  to  be  more  than  seven  hundred  vears  old.  \  et 
only  at  this  great  age  do  their  trunks  measure  more  than 
a  single  man  can  span  round  with  his  arms.  W  hen 
Charles  IX  visited  Hyeres  in  1564  he  could  not  have 
found  so  thick  a  stem,  since  the  Orange  trees  were  first 


ORANGE   TRl-:i:S   UF   liVERlCS.  ISS 


broui^lit  there  hv  the  C'rusadcrs  towards  the  end  of 
the  eleventh  ccntui\  .  .\h)reo\'er  it  iiuist  June  been 
the  bitter-fruited  Orange  tree  whicli  tlourislu'd  there, 
the  one  wiih  ahnost  uneatable  fruits,  but  which  \ields 
a  \er\-  sweet  essence.  For  the  poet  Malherbe  provided 
himself  in  Iheres  with  tliat  "huile  de  lleurs  d'Oranger, 
which  women  rub  into  their  liair  to  retain  the  powder". 
The  Orange  trees  of  H^eres  suffered  greath-  during 
the  severe  winter  of  1709,  and  in  other  severe  winters 
which  succeeded  one  another  in  the  middle  of  that 
centur\ .  The  plantations  were  reduced  and  the  bitter- 
fruited  trees  replaced  hv  the  sweet  ones,  for  oranges 
could  be  more  nuickK-  transported  to  the  Xorth  from 
Hyeres  than  from  places  further  south.  This  was  no 
doubt  the  result  of  the  then  defective  means  of  com- 
munication. The  oranges  were  gathered  in  the  autumn 
at  Iheres,  as  soon  as  the  first  ^•ellow  spots  showed  on 
the  green  skin,  and,  carefulh'  wrapped  in  paper.  the\' 
were  dispatched  on  their  land  or  sea  ]Ourne\-.  The\- 
ripened  gradualh'  on  the  waA'  and  became  edible  in 
about  fort"\'  da^s.  Orange  trees  have  now  almost  com- 
pleteh'  disappeared  from  HAeres,  which  could  not  hold 
out  against  the  competition  of  the  more  sheltered  places 
on  tlie  Riviera,  and  especiallv  of  those  more  distant 
countries  which  our  present  means  of  communication 
have  brought  so  near.  The  Orange  trees  of  I  heres 
fared  no  better  than  did  formerly  its  Sugar  Canes,  which 
in  the  fifteenth  centur\-  covered  wide  stretches  of  land, 
but  which  vanished  when  the  Indian  and  Brazilian  sugar 
appeared  on  the  market. 


156  PALMS   AND   VIOLETS   AT  HYERES. 

With  justifiable  pride,  however,  Piyeres  can  still 
call  herself  "Hyeres  les  Palmiers".  It  is  true  that  Palm 
trees  are  now  distributed  over  the  whole  Riviera;  but  it 
is  easy  to  tell  bv  the  size  of  the  trees  at  Hyeres  that 
in  this  old  health  resort  their  careful  culture  is  of  long 
standing.  In  the  Avenue  des  Palmiers  the  slender  stems 
rise  like  the  pillars  of  a  loft\'  hall  on  both  sides  of  the 
street,  and  wave  their  proud  heads  high  up  against  the 
blue  sk^^  Hyeres  has  for  some  time  past  been  turning 
its  attention  to  a  more  profitable,  if  humbler,  industry. 
We  found  whole  fields  of  Molets  in  blossom  in  the 
middle  of  March;  thev  where  not  the  same  modest 
little  tiowers  which  hide  themselves  under  their  leaves 
at  home,  but  a  far  larger  species  —  "le  Czar"  —  which 
boldly  raises  its  blossoms  on  long  stalks  above  the 
leaves.  They  are  strongly  scented  and  we  revelled  in 
the  perfume  which  the  breezes  wafted  to  us  from  these 
Violet  fields.  Other  tracts  are  planted  with  "primeurs". 
In  the  beginning  of  the  centur\'  the  artichokes  of 
Hyeres  were  already-  held  in  high  esteem,  as  are  now 
the  green  peas  and  especially  the  strawberries,  which 
are  sent  to  Paris.  A  special  train  runs  daily  from 
Hyeres  laden  with  these  products,  and  is  jocularly  called 
"train  de  primeurs'".  It  should  not  be  imagined,  however, 
that  all  these  crops  succeed  in  the  climate  of  Hyeres 
without  attention.  Even  here  the}'  require  much  care 
and  unremitting  industry.  Low  hedges  run  parallel  to 
the  furrows  of  the  fields,  and  this  clearly  indicates  the 
direction  whence  danger  threatens.  For,  in  spite  of  all 
assertions    to  the  contrary,  Hyeres  is  not  fully  sheltered 


II^■I•:R^:s  in  ism. 


157 


from  the  Mistral,  which  with  unabated  fur\'  rushes 
unchecked  through  the  gap  in  tlie  mountains  near  Toulon. 
Continuous  drought  is  also  a  serious  drawback  and  cannot 
alwa\s  be  remedied  hv  irrigation.  Nevertheless  there 
is  a  considerable  difference  of  climate  between  I  lyeres 
and  the  rest  of  Provence  and  even  "^Foulon  which  lies 
so  close  at  hand:  for  these  are  much  more  exjiosed  to 
the  Mistral.  In  former  times  the  traveller  coming 
from  the  west  and  seeing  for  the  first  time  Palms,  and 
Orange  trees  laden  with  their  golden  fruit,  imagined 
himself  transported  to  the  gates  of  Paradise.  Old  books 
of  tra\el  are  full  of  praises  of  II\eres.  As  for  instance 
that  of  Aubin-Louis  Millin,  "Conservateur  des  medailles, 
des  pierres  gravees  et  des  antiques  de  la  Bibliotheque 
imperiale'*.  who  in  1S04  travelled  in  the  South  of  France 
commissioned  hy  the  Minister  Chastal.  '"I  today  visited 
the  garden  of  ^Monsieur  Fille 
(writes  Millin).  Thousands 
of  llowers  surround  his 
house.  Tuberoses  {Pol\-  T 
ant/ics  tuherosd),  Mimosa 
(J/  Farnesiand),  and  Jasmine 
i^y.Sambac)  perfume 
the  air  with  their 
divine  fragrance.  The 
gardens  once  praised  by  singers 
and  ]')oets  - —  those  of  Alcine  .'— 
and  Armide.  created  b^•  the 
fertile  genius  of  Ariosto  and 
Tasso    —    however     vividh      pictured     in     our 


C\tiniis 
Jfy/'Ocisti 


158  THE  MAURETTES. 

imagination,  pale  before  the  garden  which  we  see  here 
with  our  own  eyes.  We  seem  no  longer  to  be  walking 
upon  earth,  but  rather  to  be  transported  to  those  groves 
in  which  the  souls  of  the  righteous  enjO^'  everlasting  bliss. 
The  trees  stand  so  close  to  one  another  that  it  is  onh' 
possible  to  pass  through  them  b\'  artfulh'  planned  paths. 
Eighteen  thousand  Orange  trees,  laden  with  flowers  and 
fruit,  shelter  in  their  branches  innumerable  nightingales 
and  their  songs  rise  like  a  hvmn  to  N^ature  —  a  hvmn 
of  thanks  for  such  a  delightful  and  fragrant  shelter. 
Other  birds  join  their  voices  to  this  brilliant  concert, 
while  bus\'  bees  swarm  humming  round  the  flowers 
gathering  the  rich  food  so  profuseh'  lavished". 

Similar  sentiments  of  sensuous  delight  aroused  bv 
the  genial  climate  may  have  induced  the  Massiliots  to 
call  their  settlement  on  this  coast  "Olbia"  —  the  blessed. 

We  loved  to  roam  on  sunn^'  afternoons  on  the 
Maurettes,  those  heights  which  flank  the  town  of  H^•eres. 
We  would  seek  out  the  spots  whence  the  ancient  Castle 
of  Hyeres  shows  in  the  fairest  setting.  Blue  sea  in  the 
distance,  green  hills  and  checkered  plain.  Resting  amid 
Rosemary,  Myrtle  and  Lavender  we  would  forget  the 
fleeting  hours  and  attempt  to  repeople  those  ruins  which 
crown  the  rocks  vonder  so  majestically.  These  ruins 
are  still  guarded  by  watch-towers  and  walls,  which 
follow  all  the  inequalities  of  the  mountain  in  their  deeply 
indented  outline. 

From  the  twelfth  centur^'  the  "Chastel  d'Yeres" 
was  held  b}'  the  Lords  de  Foz,  a  collateral  branch  of 
the  Viscounts  of  Marseilles.     Man^■  a  fierce  struggle  they 


Till':  ciiAsri'.L  1)\i:rks. 15^» 

had  to  retain  the  fortress,  and  often  from  the  watch- 
towers  their  matchlocks  flashed  ai^ainst  the  foe.  In 
peaceful  times  the  songs  of  the  Troubadours  resounded 
in  the  Castle,  accompanied  by  the  strains  of  the  six- 
stringed  \'iola.  Mabille  dc  Foz  was  president  of  the 
Court  of  Love  of  Pierrefeu,  which  with  Roniani,  Avignon 
and  Signe  formed  the  four  most  distinguished  "cours 
d'amour"  of  IVovcnce.  In  June  1254  there  was  a  royal 
visit  to  the  L'astle.  Saint  Louis,  recalled  from  Palestine 
b\  tlie  death  of  his  mother,  came  hither  on  his  way 
back  to  France.  A  few  centuries  later  Francis  L  was 
entertained  here,  while  Louis  XIII  saw  only  the  ruins 
of  the  fastness,  for  IIenr\-  I\'  had  decided  upon  its 
destruction.  Xow  the  walls  are  clothed  with  luxuriant 
verdure,  and  spring  tlowers  of  man^'  colours  deck  tlie 
summits  of  the  towers.  The  dark  hill  is  sharph'  outlined 
against  the  bright  e\ening  sk^•  when  the  Provencal  sun 
sinks  to  rest  behind  tlie  ruins.  Then  it  Hoods  with  its 
lio-ht  land  and  sea.  sfilds  the  dark  rocks  and  forms  a 
golden  halo  round  the  ancient  pile.  But  the  ruins  had 
a  still  more  profound  and  mysterious  attraction  for  us 
after  nightfall  when  the  moon  had  enticed  us  abroad 
onto  the  hills  again.  Iler  silver^'  ra^■s  penetrated  deep 
int(j  the  clefts  and  crannies  of  the  battered  masonry  and 
cast  uncaniu'  shadows  among  the  ruins.  Now  the  old 
walls  and  turrets  assume  human  shape,  appear  to  move 
their  limbs  and  to  gaze  into  the  distance.  Suddenly  all 
is  once  more  lifeless,  for  a  cloud  has  cast  its  dark 
shadow  on  the  hill.  But  when  the  moon  came  forth 
again  it  seemed  to  us  as  though  the  turrets    had    joined 


160  CASTLE   OF   IIYERES. 


hands  and  were  whirling'  round  the  ruins  in  an  infernal 
dance.  L^p  hill  and  down  dale  and  over  the  steep  rocks 
the}'  went,  while  the  wind  groaned  and  shrieked  a  wild, 
threatening  accompaniment.  For  a  few  seconds  the 
fastness  was  as  brillianth-  illuminated  as  though  it  were 
on  lire  —  then  once  more  all  vanished  in  the  darkness 
of  the  night.  With  whirling  gusts  and  thunder  and 
lightning  a  storm  was  rising  from  the  west,  and  ma\' 
perhaps  have  conjured  up  before  us  these  fantastic 
visions.  Rapidh'  darkness  spread  over  the  landscape 
and  onh'  the  distant  sea  was  still  bathed  in  silver\' 
light.  A  dazzling  flash  shot  through  the  air,  followed  b\- 
a  deafening  peal  of  thunder  which  seemed  to  shake  the 
earth  to  its  foundations.  We  stood  dazed,  while  the 
thunder  rolled  further  off.  It  still  resounded  hollow  in 
the  nearest  heights,  reverberating  from  the  rocks  with 
ever  lessening  echo,  approaching  again,  and  at  last  dying 
awa^•  in  the  distance.  Did  this  brilliant  flash  of  light- 
ning strike  the  Castle,  or  blast  those  slender  C^'presses 
which  point  so  proudh'  heavenward  from  the  ruins,  as 
though  in  defiance?  HeavA'  rain-drops  began  to  fall  — 
it  was  time  to  return. 

CHAPTER  II. 

The  range  of  mountains  which  rises  to  the  east  of 
Hveres  was  a  stronghold  of  the  Moors  in  the  ninth  and 
tenth  centuries;  and  it  appropriately  bears  their  name. 
From  these  mountain  fastnesses  thev  terrorised  the  coast 
far  and  wide.  The  Montagues  des  Maures  are  highly 
interesting  from  a  geological  point  of  vieu'.     Thev  present 


'nil';  MON  rA(;Ni:s  ui:s  mal  kes.  n.i 

an  instance  of  an  isolated  mountain  system  whose  granite, 
frneiss  and  schists  are  completeh'  cut  off  from  the  ncigh- 
bourino-  limestone  mountains  hv  deep  valle\-.s.  Like  tlie 
Alps  or  tlu'  P\  rcnees.  the  Montagues  des  Maures  possess, 
although  on  a  small  scale,  their  own  river  system,  their 
own  ra\iiu's  and  \alle\s.  This  district  differs  as  widely 
from  the  rest  of  Provence  as  though  it  were  an  island 
King  at  some  distance  out  at  sea.  A  railwa\',  (Cliemin 
dc  fer  du  Sud  de  la  France),  has  recently  been  run  along 
the  coast  at  the  foot  of  this  range.  The  line  ends  at 
St.  Raphael,  where  it  meets  the  main  line  between  Mar- 
seilles and  Genoa.  Tliese  hills  can  be  easily  explored 
from  the  stations  of  the  Sud  de  la  France  line :  and  it 
was  these  excursions  which  detained  us  in  Ilyeres.  We 
never  wearied  of  the  journe\-  along  the  coast,  for  the 
scener\-  is  charming,  with  constant  alternations  of  forest- 
and  sea  -  scape.  The  mountains  themselves,  however, 
present  little  variet\'.  for  their  summits  are  rounded  and 
do  not  exceed  1320  feet  in  height.  Yet  the  luxuriant  woods 
which  clothe  them  tempt  one  to  explore  them  further. 
The  forests  of  Cork  Oaks  will  at  once  strike  those  who 
have  never  seen  them  before.  The  Evergreen  Oak  is 
familiar,  but  the  stripped  trunks  and  branches  of  the 
Cork  Oak  present  an  unusual  appearance.  The  crown 
of  the  Cork  (^ak  resembles  the  Evergreen  Oak  and  its 
leaves  are  also  coriaceous.  Thev  are  only  to  be  distin- 
guished from  the  leaves  of  the  latter  bv  their  ovate  form 
and  slightK  serrated  edges.  But  the  red-brown  colour 
of  the  stripped  parts,  which  appear  almost  blood-red  in 
the  sunshine,   is  ver\    striking. 


162  THE  CORK   OAK. 

The  population  of  the  Montagues  des  Maures  lives 
chiefly  by  the  cork  industn'.  Though  the  cork  obtained 
in  the  district  is  inferior  to  that  of  Spain  and  Algiers,  it 
is  still  a  valued  article  of  commerce  and  forms  a  profitable 
source  of  income.  Before  the  Cork  Oak  can  be  stripped 
it  must  have  attained  a  certain  size.  This  may  take  from 
fifteen  to  twent\'  ^•ears.  The  first  cork  is  full  of  cracks 
and  brittle  and  is  used  principalh'  in  tanning.  Because 
it  is  rough  and  hard  it  is  called  ''male  cork".  After 
this  the  smoother,  softer  and  more  useful  cork  is  produced. 
This  is  called  "female  cork".  The  trees  are  stripped  at 
periods  var\'ing  from  eight  to  sixteen  ^•ears,  according  to 
the  thickness  required  in  the  sheets  of  cork.  For  ordinar^• 
bottle-corks  eight-year-old  sheets  are  thick  enough,  but 
for  "noble"  Champagne  corks  much  stronger  and  thicker 
sheets  are  necessary  —  about  five  centimetres  thick.  The  tree 
is  repeatedly  stripped  until  it  is  a  hundred  and  i\iU\ 
or  even  two  hundred  \'ears  old.  Then  the  qualit\-  of  its 
bark  deteriorates  and  the  tree  is  replaced  b\-  a  ^•ounger 
plant.  These  ancient  Oaks  are  ver^•  majestic,  and  their 
mighty  crowns  and  gnarled  trunks  are  conspicuous  among 
their  surroundings.  With  pleasure  does  the  eye  rest  upon 
them  when,  as  is  frequenth'  the  case,  the^'  are  pictures- 
queh-  grouped  round  isolated  bosses  of  rock  on  the  hillside. 
The  Cork  Oak  prefers  a  soil  composed  of  weathered 
granite  and  shale,  and  avoids  limestone.  So  that  the 
Montagues  des  Maures  are  as  much  isolated  from  the 
rest  of  Provence  in  point  of  vegetation  as  they  are 
geographically.  On  the  limestone  of  the  neighbouring 
Alps  the  Cork  Oak  is  not  to  be  found.    At  Mentone  and 


I'LANTS    INDlCATlNi;    SL  BSOIL. 


I()3 


would 
all    its 
curious 
ation 


Nice  it  maN'  be  sought  for  in   ^•a^n  and  is  onW 
to  be  met  with  occasionalh'   at  Cannes. 
'    As  the  Cork  Oak  woods  of  the  Mon- 
^     tagnes  des  Maures  betra\'  the  primitive 
4^j^    rock  of  the  range,  so  other 
'//A/^    plants    indicate    the   limes- 
tone of  the  adjacent  Alps. 
Sometimes     solitar\-    patches 
^   of  rock  ma^■  be    recognised    b\' 
their    vegetation.      Thus    a    few 
\'ears  ago  the  Inspector  of  Woods 
md  Forests    at   Saint  -\'enant,    in 
the  forest  of  Orleans,  noticed 
a    narrow    strip    of    calcareous 
plants    about    half  a  mile  long, 
whereas    the    remaining    flora    of 
the  wood  indicated  silicious  soil. 
lie  was  led  b^'  this  observation 
to   dig,   and  at  no  great  depth  he 
discovered    an    old    Roman    road 
paved  with  limestone.  —  The  Cork 
Oaks   of  the  Montagues    des  Maures 
ire  stripped   during   the  summer,   when 
not  onh   the  trunk  but   also   the   thicker 
branches  are  peeled :  but  this  is  alwa\s 
restricted     to      certain     parts,      for     it 
be     injurious    to     the     tree     to     deprive     it    of 
bark  at  once.  The  bared  portions  present  the  most 
appearance,    for    immediateh    alter    the    oper- 
the\'   are    tlesh-coloured  but  gradualK-  become 


164 CORK. 

darker.  The  workman  commences  the  stripping,  which 
is  called  "demasclage",  hv  making  two  circular  incisions 
round  the  tree  through  the  whole  depth  of  the  cork 
layer  and  then  connects  these  rings  hv  longitudinal  slits, 
the  number  of  which  varies  according  to  the  size  of 
the  tree.  This  operation  is  accomplished  bv  an  axe, 
which  has  a  sharpened,  wedge-shaped  handle.  He 
inserts  this  under  the  bark  through  the  cuts  and  raises 
it.  Then  the  sheets  of  cork  are  weighted  with  stones 
so  that  thev  may  lose  their  curve,  and  are  held  over 
fire  and  their  surface  a  little  charred.  It  is  essential  that 
the  sheets  of  cork  be  dry  before  the^'  are  exported. 

Cork  is  the  natural  protection  of  plants.  The  older 
bark  of  almost  all  our  bushes  and  trees  is  covered  with 
cork  and  owes  its  colouring  to  it.  Gases  and  liquids 
cannot  penetrate  cork  which  is  elastic  and  has  great  powers 
of  resistance.  These  qualities  are  not  only  of  service  to 
the  living  plant  but  determine  its  practical  utility.  If  a 
plant  is  injured  suberous  tissue  forms  over  the  wound 
and  encloses  it :  hence  the  new  growth  of  cork  on  a 
stripped  Oak.  Like  any  other  tissue  cork  consists  of 
cells.  Indeed  it  was  in  a  piece  of  cork  that  Robert  Hooke 
discovered,  in  166/,  those  chambers  which  he  called  "cells" 
because  they  appeared  to  him  to  correspond  to  the  cells 
of  a  honeycomb.  The  cells  of  mature  cork  contain  no 
living  protoplasm,  that  substance  which  constitutes  the 
life  of  a  cell.  Cork  cells  dispense  with  this,  soon  after 
they  are  formed,  in  order  that  their  corky  covering  may 
serve  the  plant  as  a  protection.  A  special  layer  of  living 
tissue  inside  the  bark  —  the  so-called  cork  cambium  — 


COKK.  1()5 

lornis  the  CDi'k  In-  means  ol  contiiuioiis  imiltiplieation  of 
its  cells.  The  \'ouno-er  huers  of  cork  cells  are  produced 
inside  the  older  ones.  In  the  Cork  Oak  these  cells  are 
approximateh'  cube-shaped,  but  towards  the  end  of  each 
period  of  vegetation  thcA-  flatten  out  and  become  tabular. 
^Phe  "female  cork"  of  the  L'ork  Oak  is  distinguished  bv 
the  thinness  of  its  cell-walls,  and  b^•  great  uniformity 
in  their  shape.  Onh'  at  the  conclusion  of  each  period 
of  vegetation  are  a  few  hu'ers  of  more  strongly  thickened 
and  flattened  cells  produced.  It  is  these  latter  which 
form  the  dark  stripes  which  are  to  be  seen  in  ever^'  bottle- 
cork.  As  the  darker  la\ers  indicate  the  limit  of  the 
annual  growth,  the  age  of  each  sheet  of  cork  can  be 
estimated  just  as  the  age  of  wood  can  be  determined  b\- 
tlie   number  of  annual  rings  on  it. 

If  a  Cork  Oak  is  stripped  a  new  cork  cambium 
torms  under  the  exposed  surface,  and  begins  a  new  cork 
la\er.  The  cork  onh'  and  not  the  bast,  should  be 
removed :  much  less  should  the  wood  be  reached,  for 
deep  wounds  take  time  to  heal  and  retard  the  formation 
of  cork  at  the  injured  spots.  Should  a  branch  never 
have  been  stripped,  it  presents,  like  other  species  of 
Oak,  a  cracked  bark  the  outer  hners  of  which  are 
gradually  thrown  off.  Even  in  cases  where  the  tree 
has  been  stripped  the  cork  should  not  exceed  a  certain 
age,  otherwise  it  becomes  furrowed  on  the  outside  and 
useless. 

Besides  the  Cork  Oaks,  Spanish  Chestnuts  are  also 
cultivated  in  the  Montagues  des  Maures.  There  theA- 
cover    altogether    an    area    of   more    than    four    thousand 


166 BORMES. 

hectares  and  yield  those  particularly  line  chestnuts  which 
are  exported  as  "Marrons  de  Lyons". 

In  the  western  portion  of  the  Montagues  des  Maures 
there  is  no  lovelier  spot  than  Bormes.  This  can  be 
reached  bv  train  from  Hveres  in  an  hour.  There  we 
ascend  from  the  shore  to  the  hill  on  which  the  little 
village  stands  like  an  amphitheatre.  The  houses  are 
scattered  at  different  heights;  here  singh'  there  in  groups, 
as  though  attempting  to  climb  the  mountain.  The  place 
is  dominated  by  an  old  Castle  whose  gre\'  ruins  show 
clearly  against  the  dark  green  background  of  the  woods. 
The  slope  is  overgrown  with  aromatic  herbs,  and  each 
step  liberates  their  sweet-scented  oils.  Whole  tracts  are 
violet  with  that  Lavender  {-Lavandula  Stocc/nrs,  Fig.  p.  257) 
which  at  one  time  gave  its  name  to  the  Islands  of 
Hyeres.  [This  plant  is  still  found  in  such  abundance 
here  that  a  neighbouring  village  is  named  from  it  — 
"Lavandou"".  We  ascend  farther  into  the  wood  among 
Cork  Oaks,  Pines  and  evergreen  bushes.  Here,  too. 
everything  is  now  in  bloom.  The  air  is  laden  with  per- 
fume, and  from  the  Pines,  if  touched,  thick  clouds  of 
pollen  rise.  The  outlook  over  the  dusk\'  ruins,  the 
bright  village  and  the  blue  sea,  into  which  a  tongue  of 
land  stretches  far  away,  increases  in  grandeur.  East- 
ward we  gaze  down  into  the  roadstead  of  Bormes.  and 
westward  is  seen  that  of  Hyeres;  and  be^'ond  a  narrow 
promontor\'  the  Golfe  de  Giens  is  just  visible.  The 
colouring  of  each  of  these  bays  is  different.  The  eastern 
bay  gleams  with  a  soft  blue  light ;  the  roadstead  of 
Hyeres  is  like   liquid    silver;    while    the    Golfe    de    Giens 


CORKS.  167 

reflects  the  fierx  ijflow  of  the  evening  sk\ .  \\'e  satiate 
ourselves  with  tliis  feast  of  colour  and  then  let  our  eyes 
rest  on  the  dark  green  of  the  distant  woods.  (Jradualh' 
a  purple  sheen  spreads  over  the  sea,  and  now  under  the 
ra^•s  of  the  evening  sun  the  lies  d'or  of  Ih'eres  shine 
as  though  the\-   were   realh-  gold. 

Large  (.[uantities  of  cork  are  piled  up  in  front  of 
the  houses  at  Bornies.  \\  e  entered  a  house  in  which 
cork  was  being  cut  and  watched  the  work.  The  man, 
who  received  us  politeh',  was  making  bottle-corks  with 
the  help  of  a  lathe.  He  fastened  angular  pieces  of  cork 
into  the  spindle,  set  it  revolving,  and  cut  the  cork  with 
a  tool  resembling  a  plane.  Great  practice  is  required 
to  insert  the  pieces  of  cork  securely  and  quickly  into 
the  lathe,  and  to  centre  them  correctly.  If  the  worker 
be  skilled  he  can  make  hundreds  of  corks  in  the  hour, 
whereas  cutting  freehand  he  could  scarcel}'  bring  the 
number  up  to  a  thousand  in  the  day.  The  sheets  of 
cork  have  to  be  scalded  in  water  before  they  are  sliced 
into  angular  strips.  The^■  swell  considerably  under  this 
treatment.  The  longer  axis  of  the  bottle  corks  coincides 
\\  ith  the  length  of  the  sheets :  the  corks  must  be  ima- 
gined as  standing  upright   in   the  bark   of  the  tree. 

The  scraps  which  fall  from  the  lathe  are  b\'  no 
means  useless.  The^■  ma\'  be  used  in  upholstery  or, 
when  well  charred,  ma\'  be  made  into  a  black  colouring 
matter  called  "'nigrum  hispanicum",  or  into  tooth  powder. 
Pulverized  cork,  mixed  with  thickened  linseed  oil  and 
spread  on  w  ater-j")roof  sail-cloth,  makes  the  cork-carpet 
known   as   linoleum   with   which   lloors  are  covered. 


168  ST.  TROPEZ. 


The  universal  use  of  cork  as  stoppers  for  bottles 
does  not  date  further  back  than  the  seventeenth  century. 
It  coincides  with  the  spread  of  our  narrow  necked  glass 
bottles  which  were  manufactured  not  earlier  than  the 
fifteenth  centur\'.  In  the  Middle  Ages  small  vessels 
were  made  of  wood,  earthenware  or  metal  and  closed 
with  stoppers  of  the  same  material,  or  onh'  sealed  with 
wax.  The  casks  were  bunged  with  wooden  plugs.  The 
ancients  used  wooden  as  well  as  cork  stoppers  for  their 
amphorae,  and  smeared  them  with  a  cement  made  of 
resin,  chalk  and  oil,  or  of  pitch.  More  commonh'  the 
openings  of  these  casks  were  onh'  daubed  over  with 
gypsum,  resin,  pitch  or  wax.  Oil  was  poured  on  the 
wine,  as  is  still  done  in  Itah'  toda\',  to  prevent  the  ac- 
cess of  the  air.  According  to  Pliny  pieces  of  cork  were 
used  even  bv  the  Romans  as  floats  for  fishing  nets  and 
as  buovs  for  anchors;  and  the  soles  of  ladies'  shoes  were 
also  made  of  it. 

CHAPTER   III. 

The  Gulf  of  wSt.  Tropez,  the  Sinus  Sambracitanus 
of  the  ancients,  cuts  deeply  into  the  Montagues  des 
Maures.  From  a  distance  the  houses  of  St.  Tropez  on 
its  shore  gleam  gaih'  and  the  hav  looks  like  an  inland 
sea.  Its  azure  waters  are  as  smooth  and  clear  as  a 
dark  sapphire.  We  look  across  it  to  the  Montagnes  des 
Maures  whose  wooded  heights  stand  out  sharply  from 
the  clear  heavens.  Eastwards,  in  the  misty  distance, 
the  jagged  summits  of  the  Esterel  close  the  view,  and 
above  them,  high  in  the    clouds,    float    the    snowy  Alps. 


LEGEND   OF   ST.   'i'R()Pi:Z. 


169 


Here,  by  this  blue  bay,  once  stood  Ileraclea  Cacabaria. 
It  is  said  that  a  temple  of  Hercules  gave  its  name  to  the 
tt)\\n.  The  district  was  inhabited  hv  the  Camatullici. 
Accordin<r  to  legend  the  b()d\"  of  St.  Trope/,  was 
stranded  at  this  town  in  ()(>  A.  D.  Ihider  Nero  the 
Saint  had  occupied  high  positions.  Mis  cousin,  Salvius 
Otho,  was  proclaimed  Emperor  in  ()()  A.  I).  He  himself 
laid  aside  all  his  dignities  after  the  apostle  Paul  had 
converted  him  to  Christianit\-,  and  returned  to  Pisa. 
Here  one  da^'  Xero  decreed  that  Diana  and  Apollo  were 
to  be  worshipped  with  great  theatrical  pomp  under 
a  brazen  canop^•.  St.  Tropez  refused  to  do  so,  lie 
was  seized,  and  at  Xero's  command  tortured  and  be- 
headed. His  bod\-  was  cast  adrift  in  an  unseaworthA- 
boat.  A  dog  and  a  cock  were  placed  in  the  boat  in 
order  to  feed  on  the  corpse.  But  neitlier  the  dog  nor 
the  cock  touched  the  Saint's  bod\- ;  instead  the\'  guarded 
it.  An  angel  alighted  on  the  helm,  and  steered  the 
vessel  safe  through  the  waters    to  Ileraclea.     There    the 

Christians,  called  together  h\  the 

crowing   of    the    cock,    assembled 

on  the   shore  and  received  the 

bod\'  of  the  vSaint  with  great 

honour.     —     In     the 

ninth     centur\'    old 

Heraclea    was    des- 

tro\-ed  b\  the  Saracens 

and  onh'  ancient  walls 

and    tombs    still    show 

where    it    stood.      The 


170 CLIMATE   OF  ST.  TRQPEZ. 

present  St.  Tropez  does  not  date  back  further  than  the 
fifteenth  centur^^  It  owes  its  prosperit\'  to  Genoese 
famihes  who  settled  here.  Numerous  watch  towers  round 
the  town  and  works  of  defence  on  the  heights  show  that 
the  place  had  freejuenth'  to  resist  pirates  and  other  foes. 
Toda\'  it  is  protected  only  hv  coast-guards  who  keep 
watch  upon  the  hills.  Thus  do  times  change.  Formerly 
this  town  had  to  repel  Corsairs,  anxious  to  pillage  it: 
today  it  protects  itself  against  smugglers  who  are  onh' 
too  eager  to  provide  for  it. 

St.  Tropez  has  become  a  centre  of  the  cork  indus- 
try; and  a  great  man^'  ships  are  here  laden  with 
cork  which  comes  in  from  all  parts  of  the  Montagues 
des  Maures. 

St.  Tropez  could  hardly  become  a  health  resort,  for 
it  is  too  much  exposed  to  the  winds.  The  harbour  is 
sheltered  from  the  open  sea  by  a  projecting  headland; 
yet  the  Mistral  and  the  east  wind  drive  the  waves  of 
the  gulf  into  it.  The  curious  construction  of  many  of 
the  houses  shows  that  in  high  seas  the  water  dashes 
right  up  to  the  breakwater  on  the  shore.  These  houses 
have  no  windows  below,  only  small,  tightly  closing 
doors,  like  the  base  of  a  lighthouse  which  has  to  defy 
the  sea.  With  the  exception  of  the  abovementioned  winds 
this  sea-girt  range  enjoys  a  ver}'  mild  climate ;  so  much 
so  that  the  well  known  geologist,  Elie  de  Baumont,  has 
described  this  spot  as  the  Provence  of  Provence.  The 
vegetation  is  luxuriant :  Pines  and  evergreen  Oaks  clothe 
the  heights  and  mighty  Chestnuts  cast  their  shade  upon 
the  slopes.     Here  and  there  a  Palm  stretches  its  slender 


\Tii:X   AGNUS   CASTUS. 171 

crown  above  a  wall ;  but  it  bears  signs  of  having  been 
lashed  bv  the  winds.  Oleander  shrubs  and  Vitex  bushes 
line  the  banks  of  the  streams.  With  the  loveh-  blossoms 
of  the  Oleander  (jreek  countr\  women  adorned,  and  still 
adorn  themselves  toda^ .  In  (jernian\  Oleander  leaves 
are  used  to  decorate  dishes,  although,  as  a  matter  of 
fact,  the  milk\-  juice  of  this  plant  is  ver\-  poisonous.  It 
was  said  that  the  narrow  leaflets  of  the  /  itcx  Ag-/ius 
rastus  (Fig.  p.  415)  checked  sensualit}'.  Hence  its  specific 
name  castus  —  chaste.  Athenian  women  used  to  strew 
their  couches  with  \'itex  leaves  at  the  time  of  the  Thes- 
mophoria,  that  mysterious  festival  in  honour  of  the 
goddess  Demeter,  trom  which  all  men  were  excluded. 
Vestal  virgins  carried  twigs  of  \^itex  in  their  hands,  and 
Hera  is  said  to  have  been  born  under  a  Vitex  bush. 
The  German  name  of  this  plant,  "Monks'  Pepper'",  also 
has  reference  to  the  virtues  which  were  ascribed  to  its 
spic}'  berries  in  the  monasteries.  /  V/rx  A^'nks  cas/us 
appears  now  to  have  lost  the  powers  attributed  to  it  in 
earlier  davs:  onh'  its  fruits  are  still  used  as  pepper  in 
some  places.  The  Oleander  has  been  applied  to  a  much 
less  romantic  purpose,  for  the  peasants  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  Nice  use  its  powdered  bark  to  drive  off  rats 
and  mice. 

In  tlie  Hotel  Continental  at  St.  Tropez  we  live  in 
the  good  old  style.  Excellent  wine  is  supplied  for  the 
benefit  of  every  one.  Before  helping  ourselves  we  ask 
our  neighbour  if  we  may  not  pour  some  out  for  him, 
and  the  waiters  would  be  greath-  surprised  if  asked 
for    a    wine    card.       Salami,     olives,    sardines    and    other 


172  BOUILLABAISSE. 


things,  which  have  become  general  in  Europe,  were 
served  up  there  as  entrees,  also  sea-urchins,  a  deHcac\' 
that  1  had  not  hitherto  seen  at  an  ordinarA'  Table 
d'hote.  I  willingh'  left  this  tid-bit  for  others.  To  me 
it  proved  that  man  is  the  most  wanton  of  all  predaceous 
animals.  Thousands  of  female  sea-urchins  are  caught, 
broken  open  and  wasted.  The  whole  bod\"  is  thrown 
away  and  onh'  the  little  bit  of  roe  consumed.  Thus 
countless  multitudes  are  destroyed.  I  have  no  desire  to 
acquire  a  taste  for  this  orange -red,  insipid,  slim^'  stuff: 
but  opinions  differ.  Our  table  companions  were  always 
thrown  into  raptures  b^'  "Bouillabaisse",  a  dish  for  which 
the  Provencal  longs  whenever  he  is  living  in  an\'  other 
part  of  France.  The  hostess  tried  to  ascertain  hv  the 
expression  on  the  faces  of  her  guests  whether  the}'  liked 
the  Bouillabaisse,  for  the  proper  cooking  of  this  dish 
is  alone  sufficient  to  establish  the  reputation  of  an  Hotel. 
As  it  was  put  before  us  this  dish  consisted  of  lobsters 
and  fish.  Our  hostess  made  no  secret  of  its  preparation. 
She  told  us  that  she  had  first  of  all  mixed  together 
some  garlic,  laurel-leaves,  white  pepper  and  olive-oil 
and  fried  them  in  a  casserole :  then  poured  a  glass  of 
white  wine  over  this  and  added  the  lobsters,  fish  and 
sufficient  water  to  cover  the  whole;  then  more  pepper 
and  salt,  and  boiled  for  twenty  minutes  and  lastly 
finished  up  with  a  pinch  of  saffron.  The  fish  were 
served  up  in  a  deep  tureen  in  their  own  broth  with  the 
addition  of  some  white  bread  cut  up.  The  Boullabaisse 
found  unanimous  approval.  The  hostess  maintained  that 
it  was  only  worth  while   to  prepare  it  for  French  people. 


LA    KOLX.         LA    (iAKDL    KKi:iM:r.  17.^ 


as  foreigners  gulphed  down  well  and  ill  cooked  dishes 
with  eciuanimit\-  :  and  this  was  discouraging  to  a 
careful  house-wife.  '1  hen  nn  neighhour  at  the  table 
exj^lained.  in  a  lengtlu'  speech,  that  he  could  not  see 
wh\'  one  sense  should  be  neglected  more  than  another 
One  person  might  have  a  dull  palate:  another  sightless 
e\'es,  or  deaf  ears.  Men  who  were  unable  to  distinguish 
between  a  carp  and  a  turbot.  inspired  him  with  no 
higher  respect  than  those  who  contused  \'an  I)\ck  with 
Raphael  or  (iounod   with  Wagner  I 

Although  the  food  was  good  the  rest  of  the  arrange- 
ments left  something  to  be  desired  as  regards  comfort: 
so  that  in  spite  of  the  excellent  cuisine  we  longed  some- 
times for  other  accommodation. 

A  tramwaA'  now  runs  between  St.  Tropez  and  La 
Foux,  a  station  on  the  Sud  de  la  France  line.  It  passes 
the  castle  of  Bertaud.  and  near  its  gates  a  mighty  Pine 
whose  trunk  measures  quite  six  yards  in  circumference. 
It  ma^•  well  be  one  of  the  largest  Pine  trees  in  existence, 
and  man\-  a  vSaracen  has  camped  under  its  shade.  The 
tree  stands  in  the  middle  of  the  Route  Nationale  and  it 
is  much  to  their  credit  that  the  engineers  spared  it.  The 
tramwa\-  continues  be\ond  La  Foux  northwards  to 
Cogolin.  and  thence  one  can  reach  the  Chausee  La 
(jarde  Freinet.  The  Romans  established  a  military  post 
at  this  spot  to  guard  the  communication  between  the 
Sinus  Sambracitanus  and  the  Ma  Aureliana.  which  ran 
through  the  mountains  a  little  further  north.  It  is  a 
narrow  pass  between  two  hills,  in  which  the  Moors  also 
entrenched    themselves    in    the  Acar  (Sod,    after  thev  had 


174 FRAXINETUM.  —  GRIMAUD. 

destroyed  St.  Tropez.  Thev  thus  commanded  both  the 
range  and  an  approach  to  the  sea.  The  fastness  which 
they  built  was  called  "Fraxinetum'',  and  this  name  was 
later  on  applied  to  all  similar  Moorish  fortresses.  Here 
thev  piled  up  their  stolen  treasures  before  shipping  them 
across  the  sea  to  Africa,  William  I,  Count  of  Aries, 
with  the  help  of  two  Provencal  noblemen,  Bavon  and 
Grimaldi,  took  the  castle  by  storm  in  973.  All  the 
Moors  who  escaped  the  sword  were  made  slaves,  together 
with  the  women  and  children.  The  fastness  was  razed 
and  onlv  the  ruins  of  a  few  walls,  now  covered  with 
Ivy,  and  a  deep  cistern  cut  out  of  the  rock,  indicate 
where  it  once  stood. 

As  a  reward  for  his  braver^'  and  in  recompense  for 
his  services  Grimaldi  received  from  William  I  all  the 
lands  which  the  Moors  had  held  near  the  Sinus  Sam- 
bracitanus.  The  ruined  castle  of  Grimaud  still  rises  heaven- 
wards on  the  mountain  which  commands  the  mouth  of 
the  valle^^  It  is  a  reHc  of  those  da\'s.  Two  towers  on 
the  steep  slope,  joined  bv  crumbling  walls,  appear  to 
hang  over  the  precipice;  the  rest  of  the  fortress  is  destroy- 
ed. But  below  it,  although  deprived  of  its  protection, 
the  little  village  of  Grimaud  still  clings  to  the  rocks, 
framed  in  luxuriant  green. 

Eastward  from  La  Foux  the  Chemin  de  fer  du  Sud 
follows  all  the  indentations  of  the  coast.  Now  it  hurries 
towards  the  sea,  and  St.  Tropez  on  the  opposite  coast 
seems  to  come  nearer  and  nearer:  then  it  turns  landwards 
again  and  hugs  the  Maures  range.  Soon  Ste.  Maxime 
is    reached   —  the    place    to    which    Gu}'  de  Maupassant 


Tin-:   AIONTAGNKS  DES  MAURES. 


was  so  partial.  Beyond  a  tongue  of  land  the  Esterel 
suddenly  appears  again.  The  Montagues  des  Maures 
come  down  close  to  the  coast :  the  woods  reach  the  sea. 
More  and  more  exuberanth-  beautiful 
do  they  become  as  we  approach.  The 
Tree  Heath  (Fig.  p.  17^)  with  its  masses 
of  white  flowers  shines  forth  from 
among  the  Eyergreen  Oaks  and  Mari- 
time Pines.  Everywhere  the  Arbutus 
(Fig.  p.  3/)  spreads  out  its  Laurel-like 
leaves.  Dark  Ivy  climbs  aloft  on  the 
trunks,  and  luxuriant  Clematis  trails  its 
bright  festoons  of  leaves  from  tree  to 
tree.  This  lovely  scene  tempts  us  to 
break  our  journey  here:  we  alight  at 
La  Gaillarde  and  set  out  on  foot.  We 
follow  the  shore.  The  Maritime  Pine 
.v^Q^i,^  almost  dips  its  roots  into  the  waves;  often 
^^i—^/,  .  it  bends  over  the  water  as  though  to 
look  at  its  reflected  image  in  the  glitter- 
ing surface.  The  sea  is  bordered 
with  silver\-  foam  and  the  land  with  its 
evergreen  fringe.  Rugged  rocks  crop  out 
on  the  beach  and  jut  forth  far  into  the 
ilj  deep.  The  Esterel  is  quite  close  to  us.  It 
shows  the  same  richly  varied  outline  which 
we  admired  so  from  Antibes.  This  range 
v;<^^  ot   mountains  is  so  limited   in   area   that 


C^^<^' 


Rrica 
arborea. 


the    same    heights    giye    character    to    the 
outline    from    the    east    and  from  the  west. 


176 FREJUS. 

From  Antibes  when  we  see  the  sun  sink  behuid  the 
Esterel,  its  summits  are  veiled  in  dark  blue  shadows 
and  its  outline  shows  in  bold  relief  against  the 
evening  sky.  But  here  it  is  bathed  in  light;  the 
setting  sun  casts  its  rays  into  the  valleys  making  each 
hill  to  stand  out;  gilds  the  peaks;  draws  forth  blue  half- 
shadows  from  the  depths;  illuminates  whole  villages; 
throws  unaccountable  lights  into  the  isolated  houses,  and 
fmalh^  tinges  everything  with  a  purple  glow.  Carolus 
Duran  settled  at  St.  Aigulf  on  this  coast,  and  the  place 
is  well  calculated  to  charm  an  artist's  soul  with  the  splen- 
dour of  its  colouring.  Suddenly  the  broad  valley,  which 
the  river  Argens  flows  through  in  innumerable  windings, 
opens  out  before  us.  This  valley  separates  the  Mon- 
tagnes  des  Maures  from  the  Esterel.  The  pond  of  Ville- 
pey  and  the  meandering  river  gleam  like  metal  mirrors. 
In  Frejus  the  evening  bells  are  ringing,  and  from  the 
opposite  shore  of  the  Golfe  the  lighthouse  of  St.  Raphael 
flashes  forth    dimmed  by  the  light  of  the  declining  day. 

CHAPTER   IV. 

We  are  now  on  classic  soil;  for  Frejus  is  the  old 
Forum  Julii,  so  named  after  Julius  Caesar.  Augustus 
completed  the  harbour,  which  was  constructed  among 
the  lagunes,  and  provided  the  place  with  a  lighthouse. 
Agrippa  built  an  aqueduct  and  an  amphitheatre.  Soldiers 
of  the  eighth  Legion  settled  here,  and  this  led  to  the 
later  name  of  Colonia  Octavianorum.  The  town  grew 
rapidly  in  size  and  importance;  it  measured  five  thousand 
paces   in    circumference.     The  harbour  was  so  extensive 


FREjLS. \ri 

that  in  tlio  \  ear  31  H.  C  it  was  able  t(i  contain  tlie  two 
hundred  gallexs  wliich  Octax  iaiuis  captured  from  .Vnton- 
ius  in  the  battle  of  Actiuni.  What  a  splendid  sight 
tliat  must  ha\  e  been  when  the  (leet  of  .\ntonius  tilled 
this  harbour,  when  ]iowertul  Roman  galle\  s  were  mirrored 
in  its  waters,  and  tar  awa\  \\\)  the  valle\  the  bold  arches 
of  the  aqueduct  extended  to  tlie  distant  hills.  I'nder 
the  Emperors  Frejus  remained  the  most  important  naval 
base  on  that  coast:  then  sad  times  commenced  for  this 
place.  The  amnis  argenteus  —  the  Argens  of  toda\'  — 
slowh  silted  up  the  harbour  with  mud  and  eartli.  In 
the  tenth  centurx'  onh  small  vessels  could  take  refuge 
here.  And  in  the  \ear  'MO  the  Saracens  came  and  destroxed 
the  fortifications  of  the  town.  In  the  lifteenth  ceiUurx' 
Frejus  was  burned  \>\  Corsairs,  and  plundered  under 
Charles  \'  in  the  sixteenth  centurx.  The  harbour  grad- 
ually disappeared  and  extensive  swamps  formed  in  its 
place;  these  filled  the  neighbourhood  with  deadb'  miasma. 
At  the  commencement  of  the  eighteenth  centurx'  Aubin- 
Louis  Millin  describes  the  place  as  a  picture  of  miser\ . 
The  streets  were  empt\-,  the  houses  uninhabited,  and  the 
few  people  who  were  to  be  seen  had  pale,  white  faces, 
hollow  cheeks  and  sunken  eyes.  You  might  fancx-  ^■our- 
self  in  a  large  hospital.  Millin  writes:  —  'A\'e  took 
rooms  in  the  best  Inn:  it  was  an  uncleanl\-  and  pestilen- 
tial house,  in  w^hich  our  sojourn  was  a  penance.  The 
rooms  were  extremeh-  dirtw  Foul  water  was  given 
us  in  unwashed  jugs:  swarms  of  flies  besieged  the  food, 
which  was  prepared  with  rancid  oil.  The  midges  and 
gnats    which    came    from    the    swamps    plagued    us    with 


178 FREJUS. 

their  bites:  and  at  night  we  were  devoured  by  equally 
importunate  but  more  loathsome  insects.  M^e  were  irri- 
tated to  fever  pitch.  Only  those  who  were  accustomed 
to  these  pests  could  live  here :  to  us  they  seemed  the 
greatest  evil  that  human  beings  could  have  to  endure. 
We  lamented  that  the  thirst  for  knowledge,  which  prompt- 
ed us  to  visit  famous  historical  towns,  had  led  us  to 
this  wretched  place,  and  we  wished  to  leave  it  as  soon 
as  possible".  Since  then  the  condition  of  Frejus  has 
improved.  Canals  have  been  made  to  drain  the  neigh- 
bourhood and  thus  make  it  more  healthy.  The  town 
itself  has  shrunk  to  barely  a  fifth  of  its  earlier  size,  but 
looks  tolerablv  pleasant.  Anyone  expecting  to  be  deeply 
impressed  b\'  remains  of  classic  times  will  be  disappointed. 
Ver^•  little  is  left ;  too  little  to  inspire  veneration  or  to 
be  artistically  effective.  Only  the  broken  arches  of  the 
aqueduct  out  in  the  fields,  overgrown  with  climbing 
plants,  are  beautiful  here  and  there.  The  river  Argens 
has  worked  so  industrioush'  in  bringing  down  fresh  depos- 
its that  toda}'  Frejus  is  separated  from  the  sea  b)'  a 
broad  stretch  of  sand,  and  the  ruins  of  the  old  Roman 
lighthouse  rise  from  the  ground  one-and-a-half  kilometres 
from  the  shore.  Thus  the  ancient  glory  of  Frejus  has 
departed  for  ever,  and  what  remains  of  it  can  in  no  way 
be  compared  with  the  monuments  of  Nimes  and  Aries. 
But  the  elevating  sentiments  inspired  b^'  classic  soil  possess 
us  even  here.  We  gaze  out  over  the  blue  Mediterranean 
on  whose  shores  grew  and  throve  that  might}-  civilisation 
under  the  dominion  of  which  the  entire  world  bowed  down, 
and    we    reflect    that    we    are    still    ruled  today  b}-  those 


ST.   RAPHAEL.  17^ 


thouii^hts  and  U'clinn's,  coniinoii  to  luimanit\  ,  w  liicli  touiul 
expression   and  took   shajic   in   those  times. 

Roman  villas  covered  the  shore  on  wliich  tlie  town 
of  St.  Rapliai'l  now  stands.  The  Roman  Patricians  par- 
ticLilarh'  favoured  tliis  beautitul  district.  This  was  tlieir 
Pro\incia  Romana  par  excellence,  the  one  to  which  the^' 
referred  whenever  tlie\'  spoke  brieth'  of  "Provincia"",  and 
it  has  retained  the  name  of  Provence.  Knights  Templars 
settled  on  the  shores  of  St.  Raphael  after  the  Romans. 
and  built  that  scjuare  tower  wliich  still  seems  to  mount 
guard  over  the  old  church.  In  1/99  Buonapart  landed 
at  this  spot  on  his  return  from  EoA'pt :  and  it  was 
here  also  that  he  left  the  countr\'  in  LSI 4  to  embark 
for  Elba. 

Curious  t\pes  are  met  with  among  the  native  popu- 
lace. This  is  not  surprising  since  the  inhabitants  of 
the  upper  town  are  undoubtedh'  Saracen,  and  those  of 
the  lower  chiefl^■  of  Genoese  origin,  and  the\-  still  hold 
aloof  from  each  other. 

The  statement  that  Alphonse  Karr  discovered  St.  Ra- 
phael is  not  stricth'  accurate  as  its  long  historic  past  proves, 
but  the  fresh  impulse  which  this  place  received  was  due 
to  him.  He  himself  settled  here  and  praised  the  beauties 
of  the  situation  so  highh'.  both  in  speech  and  writing, 
that  otlier  authors  and  artists  soon  followed  his  example. 
What  the\'  sought  and  found  here  was  a  tjuiet,  secluded 
spot,  where  one  could  enio\'  flowers,  sunshine  and  sea 
without  being  molested  bA'  one's  fellow  men.  The\  all 
fled  from  the  overgrown  town  of  Nice  and  the  formalit\- 
of    Cannes.        "If    I    cared     to    live     in    a    large    town". 


180  ST.  RAPHAEL. 


Alphonse  Karr  used  to  sav,  "I  would  return  to  Paris". 
It  is  cooler  liere  too  in  the  summer  than  east  of  the 
Esterel,  and  the  sand\'  beach  is  pleasant  for  bathing; 
tor  this  reason  St.  Raphael  is  becoming  more  and  more 
of  a  summer  bathing  resort.  In  the  winter  it  suffers  too 
severeh'  from  the  winds,  as  we  had  }'et  to  discover. 
On  the  evening  of  our  arrival  the  east  wind  set  in; 
next  daA"  it  blew  strongh'  and  was  accompanied  by 
heav^'  rain.  In  such  weather  as  this  nothing  could  be 
done  out  of  doors,  for  the  wind  blew  the  rain  almost 
horizontalh'  through  the  air.  This  lasted  two  whole 
days,  which  seemed  intolerabh'  long. 

Strong  east  wind  is  generalh'  accompanied  hv  rain 
here  and  is  therefore  xer\  drear\-.  It  is  very  different 
u'hen  the  northerl}'  Mistral  sets  in  as  it  is  dry  and  con- 
sequently more  cheerful.  This  wind  sweeps  the  heavens 
clear;  it  blows  in  gusts,  now  whistling  merrily  in  the 
sunshine,  now  sounding  like  thunder  and  rattling  about 
the  buildings.  The  east  wind,  on  the  contrary,  is  steadier, 
and  as  it  rises  and  falls  its  voice  is  more  like  a  lament, 
so  that  at  night  one  seems  to  hear  long-drawn  sighs. 
The  second  night  after  our  arrival  a  noisy  thunderstorm 
broke,  filling  the  vallcAS  with  dull  roars  and  throwing 
short,  quick  Hashes  over  the  sea.  But  when  morning 
dawned  the  sun  streamed  brighth'  into  our  rooms.  The 
sea  was  raging  and  we  went  out  to  watch  it  dashing 
against  the  rocks  of  the  coast.  Two  red  porph^'r^'  rocks 
—  known  as  the  Two  Lions,  "Le  lion  de  terre*'  and 
"Le  lion  de  mer"  —  are  landmarks  of  St.  Raphael,  and 
both    mount    guard    over    its    shores.      The    "Sea    Lion" 


STOKM    AT   ST.   K  AIM  lAlOL. 


181 


has  ventured  a  short  wdv  into  the  sea :  the  "Land  Lion" 
is  stationed  on  the  beach.  There  they  stand  like  apo- 
cahptic  animals,  and  have  resisted  from  time  imme- 
morial the  erosive  action  of  the  waves.  The  sea  was 
now  dashino-  against  these  rocks  with  iurv,  rolling  its 
waves  over  them  with  deafening  din  and  throwing  up 
foam  and  sprav.  High  above  in  the  blue  sky  countless 
sea-gulls  were  soaring.  It  is  a  pleasure  to  watch  these 
brave  birds  cleaving  the  air  with  the  long  sweep  of 
their  powerful  wings.  The\'  sail  against  the  wind,  or 
hover  in  one  place  and  shoot  downward  to  the  sea  to 
seize  their  preA'.  Hien  the\'  vanish  with  it  into  the 
distance,  or  settle  on  the 
heaving    waves    —    one     '^^        ■  ^^ 

white      spot     more  vcrc 

amongst  the  white        '  ^^  ^^^-^ 

crests.     Suddenh 
awav  out    at   sea 
a  shoal  of  do! 
phins  leaps  out 
of  the  water.    ThcA'  raise 
their  heads  lirst,    turn  a 
somersault    in    the     air, 
and  then  dive  down  again 
into  the  deep.     The\'  add 
a    touch    of   humour    to    the 
grand  spectacle :     thev   are 
the  clowns  of  the  sea!  —  The 
which  follows  the  shore  cast\ 
from  St.  Raphael  leads  past  country  .</i;iosa. 


182  ST.   RAPHAEL. 


houses  which  bear  many  well-known  names  on  their  gates. 
Here  we  see  "Maison  Close",  that  house  so  shut  in  which 
Alphonse  Karr  built  for  himself  in  order  to  live  secluded. 
Charles  Gounod  sought  retirement  in  "Oustalet  dou  Ca- 
pelan",  and  an  inscription  records  that :  —  "L'  illustre  maitre, 
Charles  Gounod,  composa  Romeo  et  Juliette  a  1' Oustalet 
dou  Capelan,  au  printemps  de  1866."  Jules  Barbier,  his 
librettist,  who  lived  near  b^',  added  to  it :  "Hie  divum 
Romeo  scripsit  Gounod  meus  1866.  Ingenio  haud  amicitia 
impar".  Gounod  was  fond  of  staying  at  St.  Raphael; 
^'I  have  lighted  upon  the  Bay  of  Naples  here,  (so  he 
used  often  to  say)  wdth  the  Campagna  of  Rome  in  the 
background". 

Is  the  position  of  St.  Raphael  realh*  as  beautiful 
as  Gounod  maintains  ?  I  cannot  say  so,  although  I  will 
not  deny  to  this  place  a  peculiar  charm  of  its  own. 
I  m^'self  miss  at  St.  Raphael  the  full  view  of  the  Esterel 
range ;  nor  do  I  feel  sufficienth'  recompensed  for  this 
want  by  the  uniform  outline  of  the  Montagues  des 
Maures,  or  hx  the  broad  valle\'  of  the  Argens  which 
Gounod  compared  to  the  Campagna  of  Rome.  I  would 
rather  follow  the  example  of  Carolus  Duran  and  settle 
on  the  other  side  of  the  valley,  at  St.  Aigulf  b}'  the 
wooded  shore,  whence  at  eventide  the  jagged  Esterel 
may  be  seen  aglow  with  purple. 

CHAPTER  V. 

St.  Raphael  forms  an  excellent  starting  point  for 
excursions  into  the  Esterel  range ;  and  truh'  these  moun- 
tains   are    worthy-    of  a   visit;    they  are  among  the  gems 


NALKSCLRK.  1S.^> 

ot  tlie  Ki\i(.Ma.  The  Esterel  owes  its  picturestiue  clKirin 
to  the  porpln  r\  wliich  crops  up  in  bare,  rock\'  masses. 
Round  these  pori)h\ritic  and  other  igneous  rocks  there 
is  shale.  The  Esterel  range  is  isolated  trom  the  Alps, 
and  h\  the  vallex  ot  the  Argens  also  from  the  Mon- 
tagues des  Nhiures.  As  late  as  the  beginning  of  last 
centur\  it  was  liardh"  safe  to  venture  into  tlie  Esterel : 
now  one  ma\'  roam  about  there  in  greater  safet\'  than 
in  tlie  outskirts  of  man\-  large  towns.  Our  lirst  visit 
was  to  the  highest  point  in  the  range,  the  Mt.  Mnaigre, 
whose  summit  rises  2,000  feet  above  sea  level.  \\'e  hoped 
from  this  heiglit  to  overlook  the  whole  Esterel  range 
and  intended  to  form  our  plans  there  for  further  excur- 
sions. We  left  St.  Raphael  as  morning  dawned.  The 
road  led  northwards  and  shortlv  reached  Valescure.  There, 
in  the  cool  woods  on  the  slopes,  Roman  families  used  to 
spend  the  summer  wlien  the  heat  of  the  da^•  in  Forum 
Julii  became  intolerable.  'A'allis  curans",  that  vale  wliich 
brings  health,  must,  as  its  name  implies,  have  enjo^'ed  the 
reputation  of  a  particularlv  salubrious  resort.  This  old 
repute  might  still  be  taken  advantage  of  toda\'  and  new 
inhabitants  be  attracted  hither  b\'  a  name  so  full  of  promise. 
In  Valescure  we  have  roads  read^'  laid  out,  "(irand  Boule- 
vards" with  high-sounding  names;  woods  changed  into 
parks:  large  I  hotels  awaiting  guests:  music  pavilions  read\' 
for  musicians.  Still  visitors  do  not  appear.  And  where  are 
tlie  millionaires  to  come  from  who  are  to  cover  the  whole 
Riviera  from  Toulon  to  \'entimiglia  with  Mllas  for  the 
ad\antage  and  profit  of  all  those  speculators  in  land .' 
Directh'  the  construction  of  the  Sud  de  la  France  railwa\- 


184  VALESCURE. 


was  decided  upon,  joint  stock  companies  bought  up  ever\- 
spot  on  the  shore  commanding  beautiful  views,  and  all 
points  on  the  heights  which  were  remarkable  either  for 
their  healthy  position,  odour  of  Pines,  or  an\  other 
advantage.  In  St.  Aigulf  too,  across  there  in  the  Alon- 
tagnes  des  Maures,  the  woods  are  alread\'  divided  into 
lots  and  intersected  b^•  "Grand  Boulevards",  and  not  onh- 
embellished  with  fine  names  but  also  provided  with  lamps. 
It  is  true  that  the  lamps  are  not  glazed  and  that  not  one 
of  them  has  ever  been  lighted;  some  of  them  have  been 
knocked  over  bv  storms  and  some  hv  human  hands,  and 
now  lie  rusting,  a  sad  picture  of  deca\'  where  life  has 
never  been.  Amonpf  them  the  largest  and  most  strikinef 
notice  boards  stand  forth  bearing  coloured  inscriptions 
and  plans  with  information  about  the  sale  of  land  plots. 
Will  Valescure  ever  prosper?  It  is  quite  likeh' ;  it 
already  shows  signs  of  animation.  "La  nature  severe  et 
riante,  I'odeur  des  pins  agreable  et  salutaire",  (thus  Stephen 
Liegeard  extols  the  place),  have  enticed  the  artiste.  wSuzanne 
Reichemberg  of  the  "Comedie  Francaise",  and  the  no 
less  renowned  singer  of  the  Parisian  "'Opera  Comique", 
Miolan  Carvalho,  to  settle  here.  The  place  is  pleasant, 
surrounded  as  it  is  b}'  evergreen  woods,  with  a  cheerful 
outlook  upon  the  sea  and  over  the  mountains.  We  breath- 
ed more  freely  when  we  had  left  these  "Grand  Boule- 
vards" behind  and  were  passing  through  a  part  of  the 
country  less  disfigured  by  speculators.  The  sun  rose  in  a 
blue  -  grey  mist  like  a  red.  ravless  orb ;  then  it  came 
forth  from  the  mist  and  shone  brightly  in  the  cloudless 
sky,    and    the    earth    seemed    to    be    flooded    with    light. 


WUCJDS    OF    THE   ESTL:R1:L.  1S5 

Soon  we  wore  walkino-  in  those  extensive  woods  wliich 
cover  nearh  the  whole  Esterel  range.  They  were  formerh' 
much  damaged  b\  iires  and  the  pedestrian  met  with 
charred  skeletons  of  trees  instead  of  green,  leaf\'  crowns. 
Xow  the  woods  have  become  State  propert\'  and  thrive 
under  the  most  careful  attention.  "Flu'  dark  Maritime 
Pines  (P.  Piinis/rr)  predominate:  their  crowns  are  often 
so  close  together  that  scarceh'  a  vax  of  sunshine  can 
penetrate  to  the  soil.  Excellent  roads  lead  through  the 
woods,  and  the  summit  of  the  mountain  can  be  reached 
b\-  well-kept  patlis.  Strangeh-  enough  some  of  these 
roads  end  abruptl\-  when  the^'  reach  the  boundar\-  of 
tlie  mountains.  The  departement  of  '"Woods  and  Forests" 
ends  here  and  that  of  the  ..Ponts  et  Chaussees"  begins. 
These  two  departments,  so  it  would  seem,  do  not  ahva^'s 
work  hand  in  hand.  The  wa\'  to  the  Mont  Mnaigre 
was  not  hard  to  find.  At  first  we  saw  the  mountain  in 
front  of  us.  and  in  tlie  woods  we  had  onh-  to  follow  the 
road  and.  when  other  roads  crossed  tliis.  to  keep  to  the 
north-west.  It  wound  up  among  the  hills.  Generalh'  it 
was  hidden  in  the  wood  and  dark  masses  of  foliage 
confined  our  outlook  on  all  sides:  then  it  went  up  a 
steep  slope  and  our  e\-es  could  range  over  the  tops  of 
tlie  trees  awa\-  to  distant  \alle\'s  and  mountains.  But 
not  a  house  was  to  be  seen,  and  nowhere  did  rising  smoke 
betrav  a  hidden  hut:  nought  but  solitude.  Xor  did  we 
meet  a  single  wanderer  on  our  long  walk :  we  were 
tjuite  alone  —  almost  inicannih'  alone  - —  in  tlie  endless 
woods.  After  two  hours  we  reached  a  human  habitation, 
the  Ranger's-liouse  of  Malpa\ .  "Maou  pa\  s"  —  bad  neigh- 


186  MALPAY. 

boLirhood  —  as  it  is  called  in  provencal,  in  remembrance 
of  the  da^•s  when  it  was  not  safe  to  travel  here. 

The  Forester's  wife  was  evidenth'  pleased  at  having 
someone  to  converse  with,  and,  while  we  breakfasted, 
gave  us  accurate  information  about  the  neighbourhood.  She 
pointed  out  to  us,  towards  the  east,  a  stretch  of  the  Roman 
road  which  can  be  overlooked  from  here.  The  road  connected 
Rome  with  Gaul  and  ended  at  Arelate,  the  present 
Aries,  whence  the  'A"ia  Domitia''  led  to  Spain.  There 
were  two  Roman  roads  called  "Aurelian",  which  led 
through  the  Esterel.  The  older  one  followed  the  coast 
from  Cannes  and  turned  inland,  up  a  vallev,  at  the  most 
southerh'  boss  of  the  Esterel,  reaching  Frejus  in  a  westerh- 
direction.  Later  the  Romans  made  a  second  road  which 
ran  straight  over  the  mountains,  corresponding  more  or 
less  to  the  present  high-road  between  Frejus  and  Cannes. 
It  was  a  piece  of  this  road  which  we  were  now  over- 
looking. In  an  unfrequented  ravine  in  Malpa\'  there  still 
lie  ancient  porph\rv  pillars  —  unfinished  work  of  the 
Romans.  But  the  purplish-red  stone  is  now  covered  with 
a  thick,  black  crust.  In  this  district  the  names  of  parts 
of  the  coast,  and  some  of  the  mountains,  still  recall  that 
of  the  Roman  road.  The  shore  near  the  spot  where  the 
earlier  of  the  two  Roman  roads  turned  inland  is  called 
"Plage  d'Aurele",  and  the  porph\'ritic  mass  which  rises 
above  it  is  the  "Pic  d'Aurele".  Later  on  the  Esterel 
range  was  so  cut  off  from  all  civilization,  so  withdrawn 
from  new  influences,  that  up  to  the  present  dav  the 
population  call  a  still  used  stretch  of  the  older  road  "lou 
camin  Aurelian". 


MAcn'IS   ()\   THE   MONT  VINAIGRE. 


187 


At  Maljiay  we  leave  the  broad  hioh\va\-  and  follow 
the  foot-path  in  an  easterly  direction.  This  winds  up 
the  south  slope  of  Mont  Mnaigre.  I  low  comes  the 
mountain  b}-  this  singular  name  ?  From  the  sour  wine 
whi^ch  used  to  grow  on  its  Hanks.  No  traces  of  former 
vine-culture  remain  however,  but  instead  we  find  on 
the  slopes  the  most  splendid  Maquis  that  it  is  possible 
to  imagine.  Tree  Heaths  (Fig.  p.  175),  Broom  (Fig.  p.  .^<)5), 
Pistachias  (Fig.  p.  349),  Euphorbias  I  (Fig.  p.  181),  As- 
phodels (Fig.  p.  49);  all  these  bloom  |  at  the  same  time 
and  fill  the  air  with  spic\-  ±rag- 

Provencal  spring    is 

must  hasten  before 

comes.   It  -^^  seems 

ture  wished  ^^  to 

spring  festi- 
val here ;    and 

unconsciously 

a  feeling  of  spring  pene-     H  "^"^^1^  v^^'//;] 

trates    the    soul    of    the 

wanderer.    He  forgets  all  past 

things:    he    feels    as    though  he 

could  begin  life  anew,    ^...j^^ss-^.  V" 


:A 


ranee.     For    the 

short,  and  plants 

the      drought 

as  ,  though    Na- 

celebrate  a 


-^/i 


-=^^^\. 


And    wh}-    should 

he    not?      Is    not 

the      earth 

verA- 

old,  and    does    she 

not  awaken  to  new  life  ever)- 

spring?        How     sweetlv     the 


Gdloctites 
tomentosa. 


188  MAQUIS   ON  THE  MONT  VINAIGRE. 

Heaths  smell  of  Almond!  Every  breath  of  wind  wafts 
their  perfume  towards  us.  We  had  hardh'  noticed  this 
odour  before,  but  we  had  also  never  before  seen  such 
a  mass  of  Erica  blossom.  Now  the  air  is  permeated 
bv  a  sweet  honey-scent:  it  is  emitted  by  a  small  Spurge 
(Euphorbia  spinosa,  Fig.  p.  181).  This  plant  has  no 
striking  flowers  and  must  therefore  make  special  efforts 
not  to  remain  unnoticed  in  the  neighbourhood  of  such 
rich  colouring.  Numbers  of  bees  visit  it,  while  the  gay 
buttertlies  flit  round  other  more  showy  flowers.  One 
would  not  mind  being  a  butterfly  or  a  bee  amid  such 
surroundings!  From  the  mass  of  blossoms  the  dark 
Arbutus  (Fig.  p.  37),  dwarf  Aleppos,  Evergreen  Oaks 
(Fig.  p.  359)  and  prickly  Junipers  (J.  Oxyccdrus, 
Fig.  p.  245)  stand  out.  And,  wherever  the  smallest  space 
remains  unoccupied  at  this  rich  feast  of  Nature,  the 
Asphodels  {Asphodelus  alhus)  crowd  in  with  their  spikes 
of  white  flowers.  They  too  wish  to  have  their  share  of 
the  light,  warmth  and  nourishment  which  is  here  so 
lavishly  dispensed. 

We  now  ascend  slowly,  stopping  before  each  flower 
to  watch  the  bees  at  work.  At  length,  after  an  hour's 
walk,  we  reach  the  summit.  A  whole  world  lies  at  our 
feet !  Before  us  the  green  Esterel  with  deep  valleys 
and  steep  heights,  where,  from  among  the  foliage,  the 
jagged  porphyry  rocks  jut  heavenwards.  To  the  west 
is  the  plain  of  Frejus,  streaked  by  its  silver  stream; 
beyond  this  the  Montagues  des  Maures  with  their  dark 
woods,  and  then  all  the  bays  of  the  coast  far  awa}'  to 
St.   Tropez.      To    the    north    are    the    limestone  Alps,    a 


SUMMIT   (JK   Till':    MONT    \IN  AK  iKlO.  1H9 


]iearh-  i^rcx-  hue.  To  the  east  the  Maritime  Alps  with 
their  snow-chid  peaks:  in  the  foreground  rich,  irrcen 
countr\'  witli  briglit  towns  and  vilhiges.  and  then  again 
the  coast  which  fades  awa\-  in  mist  at  Bordighera, 
(,^uite  near  is  Cannes,  and  in  front  of  it  lie  the  lies  de 
Lerins.  Projecting  far  into  the  sea  is  the  narrow  Cap 
d'Antihes:  and  linalU  to  the  south,  stretching  awa^■  to 
the  horizon,  the   boundless  expanse  of  the   sea. 

The  air  was  so  still  up  here  today  tiiat  the  lonely 
Cork  Oak.  which  grows  on  the  top,  was  able  to  bask 
in  the  sun.  Even  this  unfortunate  tree  had  been  depriv- 
ed of  its  protecting  cork  laver,  and  in  this  stripped 
condition  it  is  obliged  to  det\'  the  Mistral.  Amid  the 
peaceful  scenes  which  surrounded  us,  this  bare  tree  was 
like  a  false  note  in  the  harmon^•. 

The  road,  which  we  had  left  at  Malpa}',  continues 
in  a  straight  line  from  the  foot  of  the  Mt.  Vinaigre  and 
soon  joins  the  main-road  from  Frejus  to  Cannes.  If  you 
follow  this  to  the  east  ^•ou  shorth'  reach  a  group  of 
houses,  the  Auberge  des  Adrets  and  the  station  of  the 
(jendarmerie.  The  name  of  this  Inn  was  once  in 
everA'one's  mouth  in  Paris,  when  the  famous  actor, 
Frederic  Lemaitre,  appeared  at  the  Ambigu  theatre  in 
a  traged\',  the  scene  of  which  was  laid  in  an  ''Auberge 
des  Adrets".  Towards  the  middle  of  last  centur^•  all 
visitors  to  Cannes,  who  were  in  search  of  sensation,  made 
excursions  into  the  Esterel  to  see  the  rooms  in  the 
Auberge  des  Adrets  in  which  a  certain  Monsieur  Germeuil 
was  murdered,  or  rather  was  not  murdered.  For  apart 
from  the  (.|uestion   as   to  whether  the  stor\-  has  an^•  basis 

8* 


190  AUBERGE   PES    ADRETS. 

of  fact,  the  plav  did  not  deal  with  this  Auberge,  but, 
as  the  text  clearly  states,  with  an  Inn  of  the  same  name 
on  the  road  between  Grenoble  and  Chamberv.  Georges 
Sand  was  among  the  sensation-seeking  visitors  who  came 
hither  from  Cannes  in  the  \'ear  18()8.  At  that  time  the 
inhabitants  of  the  house  were  very  indignant  if  an\'  one 
began  to  enquire  about  this  Monsieur  (jermeuil :  tlieA- 
thought  that  the\'  were  being  accused  of  tlie  murder.  It  is 
certain,  however,  that  some  ^-ears  before  the  neighbourhood 
of  that  Auberge  des  Adrets  was  of  evil  repute.  All 
those  criminals,  who  had  succeeded  in  escaping  from  the 
Galleys  of  Toulon,  sought  refuge  in  the  inaccessible 
valleys  and  ravines  of  the  Esterel.  The\'  used  to  wa\"- 
lay  travellers  not  far  from  this  Auberge  at  a  spot 
where  the  road  is  shut  in  and  commanded  hv  the  sur- 
rounding heights.  "When  we  drove  past",  writes  Horace 
Benedict  de  Saussure,  "the  courier  from  Rome,  who  was 
travelling  with  us,  pointed  out  to  us  a  battered  trunk 
which  w^as  still  lying  by  the  road  side  ;  it  had  belonged 
to  a  traveller  who  had  been  robbed  a  few  da\s  previ- 
ously". But  when  in  1822  Gotthilf  Ileinrich  Schubert, 
"Professor  der  Naturwissenschaften"  at  Erlangen,  "with 
the  housekeeper  who  usually  accompanied  the  old  dreamer 
as  general  manager  and  adjutant",  passed  through  this 
same  place,  the  state  of  things  had  already  improved. 
A  Gendarmerie  had  been  established  at  the  Inn,  and 
Schubert  found  only  an  old  woman  and  two  children 
in  it.  While  the  travellers  were  refreshing  them- 
selves, the  old  woman  spoke  of  the  notorious  robberies. 
"If  only  one  of  those  robbers  would  turn  up  here  again"". 


FROM   MALFAY  TO  AG  AY.  191 

she  said,  "our  irendarms  would  liave  an  opportunity  of 
sliowinLi'  that  the^  are  worth  their  keep".  Since  the 
railwa\  has  connected  Frejus  and  Cannes  this  road  has 
fallen  into  disuse,  and  hi<rhwa\'men  would  no  lont^cr  be 
able  to  g-et  a  living  on  it.  Rut  it  is  obvious  that  the 
Inn  was  originalh  built  with  a  view  to  defence.  The 
walls  are  iinusualh  thick,  and  the  windows  o1  the 
lower  store\-  are  provided  with  iron  bars.  The  traveller 
used  to  be  lirst  well  scrutinised  through  an  opening  in 
the  oak  door,  before  he  was  admitted ;  oblique  loop- 
holes in  the  inner  walls  are  directed  towards  the  door. 
The  house  is,  in  fact,  like  a  fortress  and  could  only  be 
captured  b\'  a  regular  siege.  But  now  the  door  stands 
wide  open  and  little  children  play  about  in  front. 

We  turned  back  to  Malpa\'  and  there  chose  a  road 
which  led  south-eastwards  to  Aga\'.  ^^'e  soon  reached 
the  X'allon  de  la  Cabre.  Here,  on  ever\'  slope,  the 
Laurustinus  (  }'ihiiniu)u  Ti'nus,  Fig.  p.  411)  displa\s  its 
cor^  lubs  of  white  flowers.  Like  the  Tree  Heath,  this 
shrub  has  a  smell  of  Almond,  or  rather  both  these 
plants,  as  a  chemist  learned  in  the  subject  of  volatile  oils 
informed  me,  possess  the  same  aroma  of  anisaldehyd. 
Next  we  find  the  tangled  Ilonevsuckle  (Lonicera  iniplcxa, 
Fig.  p.  277),  Hu  e\ergreen  climber  which  is  one  of  the  charac- 
teristic plants  of  the  Mac[uis.  Its  elongate,  reddish-yellow 
perfumed  tlowers  form  terminal  whorls.  In  appearance 
the  plant  is  so  like  our  garden  IIone\suckle  that  we 
welcome  this  more  southern  species  here  as  an  old  friend. 
The  blue  Iris  ( Jn's  •^rrtiia/iica)  grows  right  out  onto  the 
trodden    pathwa\ .       Fhc    Poet's    Narcissus    (j\ .  pocticiis) 


192  FROM  MALPAY  TO  AGAY. 


peeps  at  us  with  its  bright  eyes  from  the  undergrowth. 
Long-stalked  Tulips  (Tulipa  Clusiana,  Fig.  p.  407)  greet 
us  from  a  distance  with  their  red  and  white  perianth.  The 
violet  corymbs  of  the  Candytuft  (Ihcris  uiuhcllata), 
surprise  us  by  their  beauty ;  we  had  hitlierto  seen  this 
lovely  plant  onh'  in  gardens  at  home.  Presently  we 
gather  Op/irvs  araiiifcra,  that  remarkable  Orchid  with 
its  spider-shaped  flower,  and  to  this  we  add  its  bee-shaped 
sister-flower  Ophrys  apifcra.  We  were  particularly  pleased 
with  the  rare  Limodoriim  ahorfivitni,  a  leafless  Orchid 
bright  violet  in  all  its  parts.  We  were  soon  laden  with 
big  bunches  of  flowers.  Suddenly  we  come  across  a 
boulder  of  porphyry  in  the  middle  of  the  path.  It  looks 
top-heavy  and  leans  over  the  stream  as  though  it  were 
about  to  fall  in.  The  peasants  have  named  it  "Pigeon- 
nier",  the  Dovecot.  There  are  other  fantasticalh'  shaped 
rocks  along  the  road :  sometimes  they  seem  to  block  the 
valley,  and  only  when  we  reach  the  river  of  Agay  do  they 
stand  back  in  a  wide  semicircle.  We  followed  this  river 
to  its  mouth.  Shattered  and  jagged,  and  glowing  in  the 
red  light  the  "Castell  d'Agay"  looks  down  upon  the  sea. 
Like  the  teeth  of  a  gigantic  saw  these  rocks  project  in  a 
long  line  against  the  sky.  We  rested  h\  the  loveh'  ba\' 
of  Agay,  with  its  setting  of  red  porph\'r\'.  This  place  is 
ten  kilometres  distant  from  St.  Raphael  on  the  Mediter- 
ranean Railway  which  follows  the  coast  to  avoid  the 
mountains. 

Blue  porphyry  is  quarried  not  far  from  AgaA\  on 
the  road  to  St  Raphael.  Large  blocks  are  blasted  from 
the  mountain  side  and  cut  into  slabs  and  cubes,  and  the 


BLUE   PORi'liVRY. 


193 


Irafjments   arc        '  i^i 
turned  to  account  for  road- 
niaking.    Tlie  whole  shore 
is  littered  with  blue  porphyry. 
/    and    numerous    work- 
men are  bus\-  load- 
ing-   ships    with    it. 
I'he  porph\r\-  of  the 
Esterel  is  a  quartz  porpliyry 
which  has  crystals,  or  crystalline 
o-rains,    of    quartz    and    felspar    imbedded    in 
a  uniform  matrix  of  the  same  substance,  which 
however  are  not  distinguishable  to  the  naked 
eye.     The    felspar    is    generally  pinkish,  but 
the   red  colouring  of  the  whole  stone  is  produc- 
ed chiefly  by  oxide  of  iron  which  is  distributed 
in    the    form    of  fine    dust    through   the   matrix. 
In    the    blue,    and    other    brightly  coloured   por- 
phyr\-,    combinations    of  protoxide  of  iron  have 
replaced   the    peroxide.     The    blue    porphyry   is 
much  valued  for  road-making,    and   it  is  exten- 
I    sivelv    worked    here.      Opposite    the    quarry    a 
•■  tongue  of  land,  "Le  Piton  du  Drammont",  pro- 
iects  into  the  sea.    Here,  on  steep  rocks,  stands 
a  high   lighthouse.     It    warns    sailors  at  a  great 
■    distance  of  the  danger  of  this  rocky  coast.     The 


194  MALINFERNET. 


bav  of  Agar,  which  in  calm  weather  is  quite  empty,  is 
often  full  of  ships  in  stormv  weather.  They  wait  here 
under  the  shelter  of  the  mountains  for  a  favourable 
wind.  In  Roman  times  the  port  of  Agathon  saved  many 
a  vessel  from  destruction. 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Malinfernet  is  considered  one  of  the  marvels  of  the 
Riviera:  it  is  a  fair\'  tale  in  stone.  There  is  a  road  to 
it  from  Aga^•,  and  it  is  a  three  hours"  drive  from  St. 
Raphael.  We  preferred  the  foot  path  from  Le  Trayas 
station  which  we  reached  b^■  rail  in  half  an  hour.  Here 
we  at  once  crossed  the  line  and  climbed  up  the  western 
slope  of  the  mountain  which  rose  before  us.  We  wander 
through  Maquis  almost  more  luxuriant  than  what  we  had 
seen  in  other  places  in  the  Esterel.  W^e  are  almost 
stupified  by  the  honev-scent  of  the  Euphorbias  (Fig.  p.  181). 
Wide  tracts  are  yellow  with  the  large  flowered  Caly- 
cotojyie  spinosa  (Fig.  p.  61).  The  Cistuses  (C.  albidus 
Fig.  p.  83)  are  just  beginning  to  open  their  large  red  blossoms. 
Thev  smoothe  out  their  crumpled  petals,  and  attract 
butterflies  by  the  tender  charm  of  their  colour.  We  do  not 
gather  any  of  these  flowers,  for  they  are  too  fugacious ; 
the  gentlest  breath  of  wind  blows  away  their  petals. 
What  a  profusion  of  ga^-  butterflies  animates  the  hill- 
side !  Flowers  and  butterflies  are  naturally  associated. 
Antkocharis  Eupheiioides  (Fig.  p.  195),  a  butterfly  rare  else- 
where, is  almost  common  here.  It  resembles  our  Orange- 
tip,  but  is  sulphur  coloured  instead  of  white.     The  same 


.malin1'"i:rxi-:t. 


It   llics      (^ 


oraiiii^e  spots  atlorn   tlir   front   wino-s ^  , 

restlessly  and  swifth'  through  the  air.  \  j  //y^k 
Thais  Polvxoia  (i'^ig.  p.  l'>5). 
whose  brownv  ^■ello\v  winirs  are 
spotted  with  red  and  blue  and  liave 
a  dark,  scolloped  edge,  is  almost  as  ^cT-Ls:. 
active.  It  is  like  a  harlecjuin,  particoloured 
and  tringed.  The  Swallow  tails  hover  over  us  in  all 
directions.  Soon  we  reach  the  Col  Lentisque  on  which 
grow  many  Cork  Oaks.  Several  paths  intersect  here; 
we  chose  the    one  which    turns    to    the    right,    cross    the 

pass    and    begin    slowly    to    ascend    a   wooded    valley  

the  "Ravin""   of  the  stream  Escalle.    Beautiful  Ilolh"  trees 
{Ilex  Aquijoliiiiii)  are  conspicuous  in  the  luxuriant  thicket. 
Here    the}'  gro\v    to    fine    trees,    while    in    the   woods    of 
Germany    we    see    them    only    as    bushes.     Germans    call 
the    Holly    "Stecheiche"    because    its    rigid,     coriaceous 
leaves  resemble  those  of  the  Evergreen  Oak.     Chamisso 
noticed    that    only  the    leaves    on    the   lower  branches  of 
the    Holly   are    provided    with    sharp    prickles,    and    that 
the  higher  ones  are  almost  unarmed ;  for  the\'  no  longer 
squire    to    be    protected  against  the  attacks   of 
animals.      The    path    turned    suddenly    west- 
ward, and  we  found  our- 
selves at  the  entrance    of 
the  Malinfernet.    Now  we 
see  all  the  red  rocks  standing 
out    from    the    dark  wood ;    here 
glowing  in  the  sunshine  and  there 
slirouded  in  the  deep  shadows  of 


Thais  Polyxcn 


196  MALIXFERNET. 


the  mountains.  As  we  advance,  their  grouping  changes: 
some  vanish,  others  come  into  view  in  an  almost  end- 
less succession.  And  a  clear  stream  flows  through  the 
dale,  at  one  time  rushing  noisily  along,  then  genth'  mur- 
muring, then  forming  a  boisterous  cascade.  In  certain 
spots  it  is  quite  concealed  b\'  the  green  foliage  of  the 
trees:  in  other  places  it  lies  open  again  and  brightly 
mirrors  the  sIca'.  And  then  these  wondrous  rocks !  Here 
we  seem  to  see  a  spire  like  that  of  a  gothic  cathe- 
dral, adorned  with  carved  flowers  and  animals  and  all 
sorts  of  arabesques :  there  again  a  fort  with  moat  and 
turrets,  or  an  organ  with  giant  pipes :  here  a  slender 
column,  there  an  angular  cr\'stal :  here  again  a  statue  on 
lofty  pedestal.  Is  that  not  the  God  Osiris  enthroned  upon 
these  rocks .-'  He  bears  in  his  hands,  as  sceptres,  two  young 
Pine  trees.  At  the  entrance  of  this  gorge  crouches  a  Sphinx 
in  readiness  to  make  a  spring.  And  }onder  by  the  distant 
clifl"  we  seem  to  see  a  wild  hunting  scene.  The  phantom 
quarr}'  overtops  the  trees,  as  if  turned  to  stone  in  its  last 
struggles.  Nature  has  given  free  scope  to  her  constructive 
genius.  Her  creative  forces  have  run  riot.  And,  as  if  half 
ashamed  of  this  exuberance,  she  has  carefully  concealed 
the  valley  between  lofty  mountains.  In  fact  the  Malinfernet 
probably  remained  unknown  till  December  1851,  after  the 
napoleonic  coup  d'etat  when  political  refugees  concealed 
themselves    here    to    escape  the  pursuit  of  their  enemies. 

CHAPTER  Vn. 

Towards    evening    we    again    walked    out    onto    the 
beach    of  St.   Aigulf.     We    wished    once  more   to  behold 


SUNSET  AT  ST.  AIGULF. 197 

the  l--sterel  rano-o  sj^lowiiii^r  in  the  light  of  the  setting  sLin. 
It  was  a  brilliant  evening,  still  and  mild,  one  of  those 
evenings  whieh  awaken  feelings  of  happiness  in  the 
human  soul.  Xot  a  breath  of  air  stirred  the  leaves  on 
the  trees.  1  )ark  clouds,  surrounded  b\-  golden  ra^•s,  were 
reflected  in  the  lake  of  \'illepa^^  b'rom  the  thicket  by 
the  shore  birds  tlew  up.  friglitened  at  our  approach.  '^Fhey 
rose  into  the  air  and  seemed  to  trace  dark  streaks  across 
the  bright  evening  sky.  The  clouds  in  the  west  assumed 
a  crimson  hue,  and  the  water,  too,  flushed  with  their 
reflected  light.  It  looked  strangely  like  a  lake  of  blood, 
and  the  dark  reed  thicket  bordered  it  with  black.  We 
continued  our  walk  to  the  beach.  Soon  the  western  sky 
was  ablaze  and  the  Montagues  des  Maures  showed  like 
a  giant  in  the  lier\'  glow.  The  trees  of  the  forest  looked 
black  against  the  bright  background,  as  though  their 
outlines  were  traced  with  crayon.  Then  the  sky  paled. 
On  the  glittering  waves  of  the  sea  the  white  ra\s  of 
the  first  stars  began  to  mix  with  the  red  afterglow. 
When  we  reached  the  beach  it  was  alread\'  so  dark 
that  we  could  no  longer  distinguish  the  outline  of  the  coast. 
The  skA-  was  strewn  with  stars  and  seemed  to  scatter 
innumerable  lights  upon  the  sea.  We  listened  to  the 
surging  and  sighing  of  the  waves  and  wondered  why 
this  land-encircled  sea  fore\er  makes  its  plaint.  Is  it 
grief  for  all  the  suffering  which  takes  place  along  its 
shores?  This  spot  also  is  called  after  the  Saint  who 
was  martvred  on  the  lies  de  Lerins.  v^everal  times  we 
seemed  to  hear  footsteps,  but  it  was  only  a  ripe  tir-cone 
falling    to    the    ground,    or    a  wave,    larger    than    usual. 


198  LE  TRAYAS. 


rolling  up  the  beach  and  babbling  back  to  the  sea.  The 
silvery  crescent  of  the  young  moon  hung  above  the  tree 
tops.  The  lighthouses  of  St.  Raphael  and  of  Drammont 
shone  out  clearl}^  in  the  east;  and  the  Phare  de  Camarat 
flashed  forth  at  intervals,  as  though  opening  and  closing 
its  great  fiery  eye.  Now  the  fishing  smacks  are  lighted 
by  their  flaring  torches,  burnt  to  aid  them  in  their  e[uest. 
The  flickering  flames  cast  long,  shimmering  beams  upon 
the  waves.  Suddenh'  a  barque,  with  outspread  sails, 
loomed  up  huge  and  ghost-like  before  us.  It  concealed 
the  stars,  forming  a  black  spot  on  the  sparkling  dome 
of  heaven.  This  vessel  vanished  as  quickh'  as  it  had 
come,    noiseless    and    m\sterious,     like    a   phantom    ship. 

chaptp:r  VIII. 

Not  far  from  the  station  of  Le  Trayas  a  bright  little 
house  peeps  forth  from  the  dark  green  of  the  trees. 
Notices  at  the  station  describe  it  as  "Hotel  du  Tra^■as 
et  Restaurant  de  la  Reserve".  The  place  is  so  beauti- 
fully situated  in  the  wood,  among  red  rocks,  that  we 
determined  to  sta\-  here  awhile.  Thus  the  next  dav  found 
us  again  at  Le  Tra\'as  station  with  our  luggage.  We 
enquired  the  wa^  to  the  Hotel,  and  a  dog,  which  was 
close  at  hand,  was  pointed  out  to  us  with  tlie  remark:  — 
"You  need  onh-  follow  him:  he  waits  here  for  visitors'". 
The  dog  had  approached  us,  when  we  stepped  from  the 
train  laden  with  hand  luggage,  and  looked  at  us  intelli- 
gently. It  was  a  large,  black  pointer  with  long,  silky 
coat.    We  walked  to  the  exit:  the   dop-  hastened  in  front 


LE  TRAYAS.  IW 


of  us,  looking"  rouiul  li\'i[uentl\'  and  \\u«;"ginir  his  tail. 
I  \c  led  us  aloui''  the  path  b\  the  line,  and  up  into  the 
wood.  I'or  one  miiuite  he  disappeared:  it  was  to  visit  a 
small  h-ish  terrier  in  a  forester's  house  near  b\',  perhaps 
to  inform  him  that  strancrers  had  arrived.  ^Fliis  Httle 
friend  returned  with  him  to  the  patli.  evidenth'  to  look 
at  us,  and  then  went  back,  hi  a  ijuarter  of  an  hour  we 
reached  the  hm,  a  modest  building,  but  with  a  fair-sized 
refreshment-room  nearh-  all  ghiss.  Apparenth'  the  refresh- 
ment department  of  the  I  h'ltel  was  more  patronised  than 
its  dwehing  rooms,  and  thus  this  glass  hall  was  the  most 
frequented  part  of  the  building.  The  dog  stopped  before 
the  front  door  and  barked.  It  was  not  an  ordinar\'  bark, 
but  subdued,  long-drawn  sounds  following  rapidh'  upon 
each  other,  some^^•hat  between  a  bark  and  a  howl.  Then 
the  bus\-  host,  with  his  whole  famih',  hurried  out  of  the 
house  and  offered  us  their  services.  We  found  the  rooms 
ver\-  small,  but  not  uncomfortable;  and  on  the  terrace  it 
was  delightful  in  such  loveK',  warm  weather  as  we  were 
having.  Tlie  house  stands  close  to  the  sea  on  a  por- 
ph\r\'  rock,  and  commands  an  extensive  view  along  the 
coast,  past  masses  of  red  porph\  r\-  and  dark  green 
heights  awa\-  to  C'annes,  tlie  lies  de  Lerins  and  the 
gleaming  snows  of  the  .\lps.  In  the  foregroimd  is  the 
shore,  of  a  reddish  hue.  and  weathered  into  sharp  inlets 
and  caves:  to  the  north,  innnediateh'  behind  the  house, 
rises  the  Pic  d'Aurele:  to  the  west  the  landscape  is  termin- 
ated  b\-   tlie  might\'  rock-mass  of  Cap   Roux. 

Man\     strangers    come    here    from   Cannes,  but  the}' 
remain  onl\'  a  few  liours  to  rest  and  eat  "Bouillabaisse" 


200  BASHING   BY  NIGHT. 

in  the  refreshment  room,  or  o^'sters  and  lobsters  in 
the  "Reserve".  Now  and  again  an  enthusiastic  angler 
makes  a  stay  of  a  few  days  here,  as  fish  are  said  to 
abound  along  this  rocky  coast  and  the  fisherman  has 
ample  opportunity  for  practising  his  ingenuity  and 
adroitness.  Fishing  at  night  with  lights  is  particularly 
exciting^  and  recjuires,  as  here  practised,  much  skill.  One 
must  have  sailed  with  the  fishermen  to  realize  this. 

The  sea  was  so  calm  and  inviting  that  we  arranged 
with  a  fisherman  to  take  us  out  with  him  one  evening. 
It  began  to  get  dark  soon  after  we  left  the  shore.  There 
was  no  moon  in  the  sk)',  but  innumerable  stars  whose 
number  appeared  continually  to  increase.  The\'  were 
reflected  in  the  water  on  which  we  floated.  The  moun- 
tain grew  gradualh'  less  distinct,  and  was  soon  no  more 
than  a  dark,  starless  shadow  on  the  sky-line.  It  was 
cjuiet  on  the  sea ;  we  could  hear  only  the  soft  ripple  of 
the  waves  against  the  boat  and  the  rhythmic  splash  of 
the  oars.  But  the  land  breeze  bore  the  sounds  of  the 
shore  across  the  sea.  We  heard  from  the  distance  the 
loud  concert  of  the  tree  frogs  and  the  shrill  chirping 
of  the  cricket.  The  breeze  also  wafted  towards  us  the 
odours  given  out  by  the  resinous  Pine  woods  and  the 
aromatic  Maquis.  The  lighthouses,  near  and  far,  shone 
out  on  the  shore  like  large  stars.  We  abandoned  our- 
selves entirely  to  the  enjoyment  of  this  scene,  and 
inhaled  the  balm\^  air  with  delight.  One  of  the  fishermen 
now  bent  over  the  edge  of  the  boat  to  light  the  fire. 
He  fastened  an  iron  brazier  to  a  hook  at  the  bow, 
having  first  filled  it  with  the  resinous  wood  of  the  x\leppo 


FISHING  BY  NIGHT. 


201 


Pine.  This  burns  u}-)  with  a  crackling  sound  and  Hares 
like  a  torch.  The  light  penetrates  far  down  into  the 
sea,  while  the  sky  above  appears  to  remain  quite  black. 
We  were  gliding  over  rocks  on  which  marine  algae 
tormed  veritable  fairy  gardens.  Here  there  were  broad 
leaves  united  into  rosettes,  there  long,  streaming  ribbons, 
like  flowing  hair;  and  there  again  roundish  forms  like 
^ — ^-.-.ry^  mussels.  While,  in  be- 
/  /  '^    tween,    bright    sea   ane- 

/    '  _    ■  s  mones      with      radiating 

}  '  " '  i^^^     tentacles ,      red     starfish 

'^    ''/y^_^/    ^vith        outstretched 
arms,  and  ^^prickh-  sea  ur- 
chins   seemed 
to      form      the 
dark    spots 
on  a  bripfht 
/^"    (Nj^^^  carpet.  Small 
lish  fled  in  ter- 
ror on  all  sides;  the 
larger     ones    followed 
ir    boat    in    shoals,     as 
)ugh  fascinated  by  the 
light.     One  of  the  fish- 
ermen    stands     in    the 
bow  of  the  vessel  and 
noks      down      into     the 
a  three-pronged  harpoon 
A   b\'    a    long    cord     and 
he  pours   a  few  drops 


water.     lie  holds 
in  his  hand,  fastened 
readv  to    be  thrown.     Xow 


202  LE  TRAYAS. 


of  oil  on  the  water,  to  calm  the  surface,  which  is 
ruffled  by  the  breeze.  The  oars  are  at  rest.  Suddenly 
the  harpoon  shoots  through  the  deep  and  impales  a 
fish  with  its  barbed  prongs;  the  fish  is  drawn  up  struggl- 
ing and  cast  into  the  boat.  Much  skill  and  practice 
is  required  for  this  kind  of  fishing.  It  is  necessary 
to  take  into  account  not  only  the  motion  of  the  fish, 
but  also  the  refraction  of  light  by  the  water,  which  mis- 
leads the  eye  as  to  the  real  position  of  the  fish.  We 
gave  up  the  fishing.  This  one  victim  satisfied  us.  Slowly 
our  fire  died  out  and  we  again  glided  peacefully  over 
the  wide  sea  sprinkled  with  silver  stars. 

Le  Travas  is  completelv  sheltered  from  the  Mistral : 
Cap  Roux  wards  it  off  with  its  broad  back.  And  while  the 
streets  of  Cannes  and  Nice  are  enveloped  in  thick  clouds 
of  dust,  there  is  not  a  breath  of  air  here,  and  one  can 
sit  and  sun  oneself  comfortably  in  the  open  air  in  front 
of  the  house.  The  east  wind  is  what  w^e  have  to  fear, 
for  it  blows  with  full  force  here.  It  rushes  straight  upon 
the  mountain  which  bars  its  way,  rebounds  from  the 
high  rocks  and  sweeps  round  them  with  howling  rage. 
The  sea  seems  as  though  it  would  flee  in  terror 
over  the  solid  land,  but  the  foaming  waves  break  help- 
lessly upon  the  un^'ielding  rocks.  They  surge  about  in 
the  caves,  seeking  an  outlet  upwards,  and  strike  with 
such  violence  against  the  roof  that  the  whole  shore  re- 
verberates. There  is  no  question  then  of  sleep  at  night 
in  the  fittle  house,  and  if  you  at  last  doze  off  it  is  only 
to  dream  of  horrors  and  to  awaken  suddenly  in  fear  and 
trembling.     Even  then  there  is  no  dust  on  the  porphyry 


''CASTOR".  2i):> 

roiids  ol  the  Kstercl,  and  in  a  liouse  turtluT  Ironi  the 
shore,  and  more  sheltered.  man\-  consunijit'ne  patients 
would  be  better  off  in  sprinir  tlian  in  the  resorts  filled 
with  limestone  dust.  But  it  is  trequentK'  cold  e\en  here 
in  winter,  and  this  accounts  tor  many  sjiecialh'  delicate 
plants  being  absent  from  the   llora. 

CHAPTER  IX. 

We  were  particularh'  desirous  of  making  the  ascent 
of  Cap  Roux,  the  '"Grand  Pic"  of  the  Esterel,  from  this 
spot.  At  the  same  time  we  wished  to  visit  the  "Sainte 
Beaume  d'Honorat''.  and  entjuired  the  wa\'  to  it.  The 
landlord  offered  us  his  dog  as  guide  —  the  same  dog 
which  had  recei\cd  us  at  the  station.  vSo  "'Castor''  u-as 
called.  We  had  alread\'  become  better  ace|uainted  with 
him,  and  hv  remembering  him  at  meals  had  won  oiu" 
way  to  his  favour.  This  dog  had  a  remarkable  amount 
ot  expression  in  his  face:  his  eves  were  so  clear  and 
faithful,  and  when  lie  looked  at  us  sidewa\s,  and  the 
whites  of  his  e\'es  showed,  the^■  looked  so  intelligent  and 
thoughtful,  so  very  sagacious,  that  the\-  were  almost 
human.  To  all  appearances  Castor  understood  the  mean- 
ing of  man\'  words,  and  we  were  therefore  not  sur- 
prised when  the  landlord  explained  to  him  that  he  was 
to  conduct  us  to  the  Beaume,  and  with  this  object  re- 
peated the  word  "'Beaume"  three  times.  Castor  wagged 
his  tail  as  a  sign  of  comprehension ,  but  nex'ertheless 
stood  still.  '"Ah",  said  the  landlord,  "I  have  forgotten 
the  reward  which  he  is  accustomed  to  receive,  the  one 
half  now,  the  other  at  the  cave".      So  the  cake,  of  which 


204  SAINTE  BEAUME  D'HONORAT. 

Castor  was  specialh'  fond,  \\as  fetched.  He  devoured 
one  half  at  once  with  evident  satisfaction:  the  other  half 
v,e  took  with  us.  So  we  set  out,  Castor  taking  the  lead 
and  suiting  his  pace  to  ours,  and  frequently  looking 
round  to  see  whether  we  were  following.  We  walked 
along  beside  the  railway-embankment  in  a  westerly  di- 
rection and  soon  reached  the  entrance  to  the  valley 
which  separates  the  Pic  d'Aurele  from  the  cliffs  of  Cap 
Roux.  The  sea  runs  up  into  this  ^'alle)•,  forming  one 
of  the  many  inlets  which  are  called  "calanques''  here.  A 
railway  bridge  spans  the  inlet.  We  thought  we  should 
have  to  pass  under  the  bridge,  but  Castor  led  us  up 
across  the  line,  without  paving  an\'  attention  to  the  wire 
fence.  We  found  that  we  had  to  follow  his  example, 
for  paths  led  up  to  the  embankment  on  either  side.  The 
wire  fence  seems  there  onh'  to  be  stepped  over  and  to 
shield  the  railwaA'  compan\'  in  case  of  accidents.  This 
is  the  case  all  along  the  line ;  numerous  paths  approach 
the  rail  on  either  side,  and  if  you  enquire  the  way  even 
the  guard  of  the  line  will  advise  }ou  to  climb  over  the 
iron  fence.  Castor  led  us  further  north-west  along  the 
slopes  of  Cap  Roux :  he  did  not  strike  into  any  of  the 
paths  which  lead  steeph'  up  the  mountain  side,  but  kept 
steadih'  onward.  The  valleA'  now  turned  to  the  west,  and 
we  kept  along  the  north  slope  of  the  hill.  Near  the 
path  is  a  stone  hut,  which  is  used  bA'  the  loresters  as  a 
shelter,  and  close  to  it  a  spring  tlows  from  the  mountain 
side.  Here  Castor  turned  aside  to  the  right  and  took 
a  steep  path  up  the  hill.  At  first  the  path  was  good, 
but    after    a    while    we    reached  loose    stones    and    rocks. 


SAiNTi-:  r.KAi'MK  n•lr(^X(M^\'^.  :ii5 

TluMi  we  came  to  stone  steps,  and  in  some  places  we 
skirted  tlie  ediJ'e  of  a  precipice:  but  liere  tliere  were  iron 
posts  dri\en  into  the  rock  to  liold  on  b\'.  Castor  did 
not  seem  to  sutler  from  giddiness;  he  cHmbed  cleverh 
up.  often  lookiiifT  round  in  dizz\'  phices  as  though  doubt- 
ing our  skiU.  In  front  ot  us  on  a  ledge  of  rock  rose 
the  ruins  ot  a  tower.  \\  e  stood  at  its  entrance  looking 
down  across  the  steep  rocks  into  tlie  luxuriant  \alle\  . 
(jreen  hills  crowned  with  jagged  masses  of  porph\r\'  rose 
be-\-ond:  over  the  Col  Le\eque  to  the  east  gleamed  the 
snow\  summits  of  the  Alps.  And  to  the  west,  batlied 
in  mist\-  blue,  the  Montagues  des  Maures  closed  the  horiz- 
on, (^n  the  other  side  of  the  tower  is  the  entrance  to 
the  cave.  Castor  was  alread\'  King  down  in  front  of  it. 
He  looked  at  us  in  a  self-satisfied  waw  and  did  not  think 
it  at  all  necessar\-  to  wag  his  tail  when  we  ga\"e  him  the 
rest  of  the  cake.  lie  knew  he  deserved  it.  and  humilit\' 
was  therefore  imnecessar\'.  ^^  e  entered  the  cave.  To 
the  right  there  is  a  cistern.  At  the  back  a  modest 
altar  has  been  made,  and  still  less  pretentious  are  the 
images  of  the  Saints  which  adorn  tlie  walls.  St.  Ih)nor- 
atus  is  said  to  have  lived  here  once  as  a  hermit.  It 
was  he  who  in  the  \"ear  40S  founded  on  the  lies  de 
Lerins  the  monaster\'  whicli  became  famous  later.  For 
centuries  past  pilgrims  haxe  toiled  each  \'ear,  on  tlie 
lirst  lliursda\-  in  Maw  up  this  steep  mountain-side  to 
honour  the  Saint,  A  niche  in  the  cave  is  said  to  have 
formed  the  hermit's  couch.  Hie  pilgrims  gaze  revcrenth' 
at  this  hollow  in  the  rock,  which  the\-  consider  to  be  an 
impression  made  b\-  the  bodv  of  the   Saint. 


206  ST.  HONORATUS. 


St.  Honoratus  is  said  to  have  come  of  a  distinguished 
famih'  from  northern  Gaul,  ^^'hile  still  \'Oung  he  retired 
to  this  retreat.  His  example  was  followed  by  others. 
St.  Eucharius,  a  Provencal  nobleman,  lord  of  Theoule  and 
of  Mandelieu,  imitated  him,  but  he  did  not  renounce  the 
u'orld  as  earh'  in  life  as  did  St.  Honoratus.  He  must  have 
experienced  man\-  a  bitter  sorrow.  For,  as  I  understand 
from  the  histor\-  of  the  Diocese  of  Frejus,  which  the  Abbe 
Disdier  has  published.  St.  Eucharius  was  married  and  had 
two  sons  and  two  daughters.  When  death  robbed  him  of 
his  wife,  he  entrusted  the  education  of  his  sons  to  St. 
Hilarius  and  retired,  first  to  one  of  the  lies  de  Lerins. 
and  then  to  the  hermitage  of  Cap  Roux.  Here  he  lived 
in  a  cave  which  was  still  more  inaccessible  than  that  of 
St.  Honoratus.  Thus  '"isolated,  and  devoting  himself  to 
silence  and  seclusion,  he  had  neither  the  desire  nor  tlie 
opportunit^■  to  sin"".  Here  he  wrote  a  devout  treatise  in 
praise  of  solitude.  But  he  was  not  destined  to  end  his  life 
in  this  retreat.  Envo\'s  from  the  communit^' of  L^'ons  fetched 
him  awa\'  to  become  their  Archbishop.  It  is  difficult  now- 
a-da\'s  to  realise  the  spirit  of  those  devout  ascetics,  whose 
ideal  of  perfection  was  not  the  fulfilment  of  the  ordinary 
duties  of  life,  but  the  crushing  of  all  desires  and  appetites. 
Yet  times  were  different  then,  and  the  world  was  so  sad 
that  some  wished  to  renounce  it.  Man-\'  a  man  of  noble 
disposition  might  consider  that  his  ethical  ideal  could  not 
be  realised  under  such  social  conditions,  and  sought  refuge 
therefore  in  renunciation.  Such  strenuous  idealism  —  such 
self  sacrifice,  compels  our  admiration.  A  later  hermit  of 
the  hills  of  Cap  Roux,  Laurentius  Bonhomme,  appeals  to 


LALki:N  riLS   BONHOMME. 


207 


us  as  more  human. 
He  lived  there  in  the 
hitter  half  of  the  seventeenth 
century.     He    carried  on 
all    sorts    of    little    industries,     was 
always  at  work,  kept  bees,    sold  the 
w  ax  and  honey  and  divided  the  monev 
he    earned    among    the    poor.      He    did    not 
shut  himself  off  from  other   men,    and    not 
unfrequently  walked    into  Frejus    followed 
by  a  doe.  His  bishop  asked  for  the  deer  and 
it  remained  at  Frejus.     Later  on,  when  Laur- 
entius    came    again    to  Frejus    and  was  speak- 
ing in  a  loud  voice  outside  the  palace,  the  doe 
heard    him,     sprang    out    of    the    window    and 
licked  his  hands.     Then  the  man  felt  happ^• ;  he 
enjoyed  "le  bonheur  du  parfait  solitaire",  so  the 
story  relates.     His  hermitage  was  constantly 
visited    by    numbers    of  birds    to    which    he 
gave    water,    in    times    of  drought,    among  the 
recesses  of  the  rocks.     One  day  he  surprised 

Glohularia  ,.  ,.i 

Ahpum.       thieves  robbmg  his  bee-hives.    In  terror  the 

evil  doers    saw    him    approaching.     But   he 

brought  them  the  beehives,   which  the\-  had  left  behind, 

with  the  remark  that  those  were  the  best.     Such  boundless 


208  SUMMIT   OF   CAP   ROUX. 

benevolence  touched  the  hearts  of  these  miscreants,  and 
it  is  said  that  they  mended  their  ways  from  that  very  hour. 

We  stood  again  outside  the  cave  lost  in  contemplation 
of  this  charming-  view.  On  this  same  landscape  St.  Honor- 
atus  must  have  looked  some  fifteen  hundred  years  ago. 
Then,  as  now,  the  porph)'ry  rocks  glowed  red  in  the  sunshine, 
and  the  eternal  snows  gleamed  on  the  summits  of  the  Alps. 
The  same  striving  after  ideals  remains  in  mankind,  but 
manifests  itself  in  other  ways. 

We  now  descend  again  to  the  spring,  and  there  strike 
into  a  path  which  leads  us  to  the  summit  of  the  moun- 
tain from  the  west.  We  tried  to  make  Castor  go  home, 
but  he  preferred  not  to  leave  us.  He  seemed  indeed  no 
longer  to  feel  it  his  duty  to  act  as  guide;  and  instead  of 
walking  in  front  of  us,  strayed  hither  and  thither.  His  chief 
delight  was  to  put  up  birds  from  the  shrubs,  and  then 
watch  them  rise  into  the  air.  At  one  time  he  appeared  to 
be  chasing  a  large  animal,  probably  one  of  the  many  foxes 
which  inhabit  the  Esterel. 

On  the  summit  of  Cap  Roux,  the  Grand  Pic,  or  as 
it  was  formerly  called  Vigie  de  Peyssarin,  a  prospect  un- 
folds before  us  the  like  of  which  is  rarely  seen.  It  is  im- 
pressive in  its  grandeur.  While  from  the  Mont  Vinaigre 
the  eye  looks  far  away  over  wooded  hills  to  the  sea,  here 
we  have  the  blue  water  at  our  feet.  The  green  slopes  of 
Cap  Roux  first  incline  gently  towards  the  sea,  then  the 
cliff  becomes  bare  and  drops  sheer  into  the  waves,  then 
rugged  rocks  project  and  sharp  ridges  jut  out  into  the  sea, 
imprisoning  the  water  here  and  there  in  bowls  and  crater- 
like hollows.     Finally,   after  diving  below  the  surface,  the 


\'li:W    1  ROM  CAP   ROUX. 209 

porplnrx  reappears  as  a  purple  reel.  The  water  looks  xiolet 
against  the  red  rock.:  it  sliines  like  li(,|iiid  amethyst  in  a 
bowl  ot  Rosso  antico.  ^\11  round  us  tlic  rocks  glow  in  llie 
bright  sunlight.  (rre\'  and  yellow  lichens  tone  down  the 
prevailing  red  into  countless  shades.  We  are  completely 
charmed  In  this  rich  \ariet\-  ot  hues :  it  affects  tlie  soul 
like  music.  So  much  is  our  attention  attracted  b\  this 
colouring  that  at  lirst  we  scarceh-  obser\  e  the  shape  of 
the  objects,  noticing  how  the  tones  blend,  how  thev  fade 
awaA'  or  become  prominent.  TIow  wondroush'  this  brown- 
red  mass  contrasts  with  the  blue  of  the  sea.  which  rises 
behind  it  to  tlie  liorizon!  1  low  ^'onder  block  of  porph^•r^• 
detaches  itself  from  the  pearl^■-gre^'  background  of  the 
limestone  Alps  I  There  again  red  peaks  stretch  forth 
towards  the  brilliant  skA'.  To  the  east,  above  Nice,  the 
dazzling  snow  of  tlie  Alps  crowns  the  green  foot-hills 
like  a  siher\-  diadem.  Our  e^■es  return  to  it  continualK'. 
Below,  near  the  coast,  the  azure  sea  lies  sparkling;  far 
awa\'  to  the  south  it  mirrors  the  sun.  throwino"  back  a 
Hood  of  light  as  if  from  its  own   depths. 

A  large  boss  of  rock  to  the  west  co\ers  the  valley 
of  Frejus :  behind  it  rise  the  Montagnes  des  Maures.  a 
velvet^■  green.  We  gaze  along  the  coast,  awa}'  to  the 
Golden  Isles.  To  the  east  the  Golfe  de  la  Napoule  and 
Cannes  lie  before  us  almost  within  reach.  The  lies  de 
Lerins  emerge  like  emeralds  from  the  golden  water.  We 
see  them  now  all  united  into  a  single  gleaming  group  — 
in  the  foreground  St.  I  lonorat.  next  to  it  !^te.  Marguerite, 
and  to  the  east,  near  St.  llonorat,  the  small  St.  Fereol; 
behind  this  again  the  Lap  d"Antibes  dips  its  flower\'  shores 


210 PIC  D'AURELE. 

into  the  sea,  dividing  the  adjacent  bays.  Lining  the  Baie  des 
Anges  —  the  wide  ba\'  of  Angels  —  is  the  white  town 
of  Nice  set  in  a  semicircle  of  green  hills:  and  then  rise 
mountain  upon  mountain  until  beyond  Bordighera  the  out- 
line of  the  coast  fades  awaA'  in  the  mist\'  distance. 

This  view  made  no  impression  upon  Castor.  He 
carefully  sniffed  the  stones  upon  which  earlier  tourists 
must  have  eaten  man^'  a  breakfast.  Without  doubt  he 
devoted  all  his  imagination  to  conjuring  up  the  details 
of  the  different  ''menus";  then  he  ^'awned  repeatedh-, 
lay  down  and  went  to  sleep.  Hours  went  b\-  before  we 
decided  to  return. 

CHAPTER  X. 

We  could  not  well  leave  the  Pic  d'Aurele  unnoticed, 
as  it  was  so  close  at  hand.  We  felt  bound  to  make 
the  ascent,  if  onh'  in  honour  of  that  Aurelius  from  whom 
it  takes  its  name.  Which  Aurelius  it  was  whose  name 
this  rock  bears,  and  who  immortalised  the  old  Roman 
Road,  is  not  known  for  certain.  In  all  probabilitA'  it  was 
Caius  Aurelius  Cotta,  because  he  designed  the  plan  for 
this  great  highwaA'  and  carried  out  its  construction  from 
Rome  to  Pisa  in  the  ^'ear  241  B.  C.  Emilius  Scaurus 
then  continued  the  road  to  \"ada  Sabatia.  the  \  ado  of 
today,  which  lies  between  vSavona  and  Albenga,  and 
Augustus  carried  it  on  far  bcAond  \^entimiglia  to  Aries. 
The  stretch  from  Pisa  to  \"ada  Sabatia  was  first 
called  the  road  of  Emilius  Scaurus,  to  distinguish  it  from 
that  Via  Emilia  which  united  Rimini  and  Piacenza,  and 
owed  its  origin  to  Emilius  Lepidus.     Later  the   name  of 


PIC   D'AURELE.  211 


"\'ia  Aiirelia"  was  o-iven  to  the  whole  road  which  extended 
from  Rome,  throuirh  (lenoa,  into  (iaul.  We  know  all 
the  details  ot"  this  road  trom  the  "Peutinger'sche  TaleF', 
a  thirteentli  centur\-  cop^•,  whicli  we  owe  to  a  monk  ot" 
Colmar.  of  an  Itinerar\-  dating  from  the  time  of  the 
Roman  Empire.  Konrad  Celtes,  of  Worms,  discovered 
this  cop\'  and  entrusted  it  to  the  worthA'  collector  of 
antitiuities.  IvonradPeuting-er  of  Augsburg,  to  be  published; 
this  however  \\-as  prevented  b^'  his  early  death.  Later 
on  this  important  document  was  acquired  b^'  the  Court 
Librar\-  of  Menna ,  and  has  since  been  repeatedlv 
printed. 

We  climbed  straight  up  from  the  Hotel  du  Tra\as, 
crossing  the  railwa\'  line  in  the  customar^■  manner,  and 
soon  reached  a  broad  road  which  skirts  the  mountain  in 
a  westerlv  direction.  We  had  to  follow  this  road  for 
some  distance  with  the  green  valle^'  which  separates  the 
Pic  d'Aurele  from  Cap  Roux,  always  in  front  of  us.  On 
the  northern  slopes  of  Cap  Roux  the  dark  red  rocks  are 
sharph'  outlined,  and  among  them  is  clearh'  seen  the 
tower  which  guards  the  cave  of  St.  Honoratus.  We 
chose  the  first  footpath  which  turned  upwards  to\\-ards 
the  summit  of  the  Pic  d'Aurele.  The  mountain  is  onlv 
about  1,000  feet  high,  and  can  therefore  be  climbed 
without  much  exertion.  The  view  from  the  top  is  similar 
to  that  which  we  enjoved  from  Cap  Roux.  onl\-  less 
extensive.  For  Cap  Roux  conceals  the  whole  coast  to  the 
west,  and  only  the  valle\'  on  its  nortliern  side  permits  of 
a  peep  through  to  the  JMontagnes  des  Maures.  W^e  see 
Frejus  lying  in  the  vallev  of  the  Argens,  and  now  easily 


212  PLAGE  D'AURELE. 

understand  why  the  Romans  first  chose  this  vale  for 
their  road  from  the  coast  to  Forum  Julii.  From  this 
place  the  eve  ranges  unchecked  over  the  snow -clad 
Alps  and  the  wide  coast.  The  bare  porphyry  rocks  at 
the  top  of  the  mountain  are  deeplv  cleft  and  resemble 
the  ruins  of  a  Titan's  stronghold.  It  is  necessary  to 
approach  the  edge  with  caution,  for  these  rocks  are 
liable   to    fall    over  into  the  vallev  without  any  warning. 

Everv  ramble  in  the  Esterel  suggests  new  excursions. 
With  its  carefulh'  kept  roads  and  woods  this  mountain 
range  resembles  a  vast  park  adorned  with  huge  rock- 
masses  which  Nature  would  seem  to  have  disposed 
with  artistic  skill,  rare  taste,  and  an  expenditure  of 
superhuman  energy. 

Castor  has  become  quite  friendh',  and  although  distant 
views  do  not  fascinate  him,  he  accompanies  us  on  all 
our  expeditions,  and  climbed  the  Pic  d'Aurele  with 
us  also. 

A  road  leads  past  our  Hotel  westward  to  Aga}'.  It 
follows  all  the  indentations  of  the  ''Plage  d'Aurele",  and 
from  it  also,  across  a  foreground  of  red  rocks,  a  view  of 
the  snowy  alpine  heights  is  soon  obtained.  We  left  the 
main  road  and  descending  to  the  shore  continued  our 
way  climbing  up  and  down  along  the  rocky  coast.  The 
sea  is  calm,  and  only  gentle  wavelets  ripple  up  the  beach 
with  scarce  a  fringe  of  foam.  The  bottom  is  seen  clearlv 
through  the  crvstal  waters.  There,  in  purple  hollows, 
are  strange  forms  of  manv  colours  shining  like  precious 
stones.  The  Provencal  sun  bathes  us  in  its  glory,  and 
even  the  sea  and  the  rocks  radiate  light.    The  air  quivers 


LE   TRAYAS.  213 


above  tlie  heated  grinind.  E\er\thinir  sliines  and  glitters 
around  us;  the  distance  fades  into  a  golden  mist  and 
the  gleaming  snow  of  the  Alps  seems  to  liover  over  an 
ab\'ss. 

But  we  must  take  leave  of  Le  Travas.  Castor 
accompanied  us  to  the  station.  We  stroked  him  grate- 
fulh'  before  we  parted,  and  he  gazed  for  long  after  the 
train  wliicli  bore  us  awav.  He  was  distressed;  it  seemed 
to  us  almost  as  though  tears  stood  in  his  e^•es. 


^^    r, 


'iTT 


THTlil)  J01TRX]]Y. 


CHAPTER  I. 

1  he  northern  winter  had  been  such  a  lon^  and 
drear\'  one,  that  we  were  yearning  for  warmth  and  sunshine. 
Hut  even  from  the  Mediterranean  bad  reports  were  con- 
tinualh'  arriving  of  incessant  cold  and  consequent  injur\- 
to  the  vegetation.  As  kite  as  the  beginning  of  March 
snow  liad  fallen  and  clothed  mauA-  places  on  the  Riviera 
in  a  mantle  of  white.  However  at  last  the  springtide 
sun  prevailed  there :  we  received  more  tavourable  news, 
and  a  few  da\s  later  saw  us  in  Cannes.  When  we  passed 
tlie  Alps,  glorious  spring  greeted  us  with  a  radiant  coun- 
tenance. Hie  iourne\'  in  this  sunn\'  region,  \\here  Nature 
is  bus\'  awakening  ever^'thing  to  lite,  was  like  a  veri- 
table festal  procession.  And  so  we  arri\ed  on  the  shores 
ot   the   Mediterranean. 


21b SPRING  ON  THE  RIVIERA. 

While  in  the  North  it  was  still  snowing  and  the 
sky  was  heavih'  laden  with  dark  clouds,  here  the 
sun  shone  brighth'  in  the  blue  firmament.  It  was 
reflected  in  the  sea,  and  its  warm  ra\'s,  penetrating  to 
our  inmost  hearts,  dispelled  the  gloom  which  had 
gathered  there  during  the  dark  da^^s.  On  the  Riviera 
di  Ponente  too,  both  plants  and  people  had  suffered 
from  the  unusual  severit}-  of  the  winter.  But  most 
plants  are  hardier  than  mankind  and  e^uicklv  recover. 
On  the  walls  of  the  houses  rust\'  withered  Bougain- 
villias  were  beginning  here  and  there  to  shoot  forth, 
forming  tufts  of  crimson  bracts  among  the  dead 
foliage.  Heliotropes  were  sprouting  through  the  earth, 
and  very  soon  fresh  leaves  of  a  vivid  green  would  re- 
place the  old  spotted  brown  ones  on  the  Fan  Palms, 
The  Acacias  had  bravely  withstood  both  frost  and  snow 
and  were  now  completely  covered  with  blossom  —  masses 
of  bloom  lighting  up  the  landscape  which  was  still  rather 
bare.  Indeed  the  vegetation  was  very  backward  for  the 
time  of  ^'ear,  rose  trees  showing  onh'  closed  buds,  whereas 
they  are  generalh'  in  their  full  splendour  from  the  middle 
of  winter  onwards.  Not  a  rose  was  to  be  seen  in  any 
of  the  numerous  flower-shops  in  Cannes;  ihev  would  have 
to  be  ordered  from  the  hothouses  of  the  north.  Far 
worse  does  the  suffering  patient  fare  who  has  come  hither 
this  winter  in  search  of  relief  or  recovery.  For  he  is 
kept  a  prisoner  in  rooms  which  are  often  insufficienth- 
heated.  How  many  lives  have  been  shortened  hv  this 
sojourn!  It  is  doubtful  whether  the  worst  invalids  should 
be  sent  here. 


VIEW   FROM  CALIFORNIE. 217 

CHAPTER  II. 

As  wo  did  not  care  to  live  down  hv  the  sea  in  the 
dust\-  tiuarters  of  Cannes,  we  ascended  the  slope  that 
overlooks  the  town  from  the  east,  as  far  as  California. 
Over  the  beautiful  gardens  of  the  Hotel  Californie  we 
look  onto  the  Croisette,  the  small  tongue  of  land  that 
separates  the  Golfe  de  la  Napoule  from  Golfe  Jouan. 
Be\ond  lies  the  He  Ste.  Marguerite,  and  in  the  morning 
light  every  detail  of  the  fort  which  crowns  the  island  is 
distinctly  delineated.  Of  the  He  St.  Honorat  the  church 
alone  is  visible;  the  rest  is  hidden  by  the  sister  isle.  To 
the  west,  above  the  tlowering  Acacias,  stands  the  old 
town  of  Cannes  on  the  hill  whose  summit  is  crowned  by 
the  old  castle,  forming  a  picturesque  and  varied  scene. 
Less  pleasing  in  outline  is  the  new  part  of  the  town  along 
the  bay;  but,  as  seen  from  this  elevation,  it  is  broken 
and  diversified  b\'  the  luxuriant  gardens  of  the  hills.  Our 
e\es  rested  with  delight  on  the  jagged  contour  of  the 
Esterel.  It  is  yonder  we  take  our  first  look  in  the  morn- 
ing, when  the  sun  gilds  the  summits  and  ever\'  hamlet 
stands  out  dazzlingly  white  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains; 
and  \onder  again  do  our  eyes  turn  in  the  evening  when 
the  sun  is  disappearing  behind  the  long  chain  of  hills, 
his  ra^■s  extending  over  the  evening  sky  like  a  fiery  fan. 
Then,  one  by  one,  the  lighthouses  fiash  out  along  the 
coast,  and  in  the  twilight  Cannes  sparkles  with  innumerable 
lights.  Tliis  spectacle  was  repeated  ever\'  evening,  but 
we  never  wearied  of  it. 

At  nightfall  the  tree  frogs  begin  their  concert  in  front 
of   the    Hotel  —  a    sound    familiar    to    all    who    frequent 


218  TREE  FROGS. 


the  Riviera  in  spring.  At  this  season  of  the  ^'ear  these 
creatures  assemble  in  all  the  reservoirs  and  call  to 
each  other.  The  remarkable  volume  of  sound  is  due 
to  the  fact  that,  in  the  males,  the  dark  skin  of 
the  throat  swells  up  into  a  large  sound-bladder.  At  or- 
dinary times  these  pretty  bright -green  creatures  live  in 
the  shrubs  and  trees.  We  were  interested  in  searching 
for  them  in  the  da^'time.  in  the  garden  of  the  Hotel,  and 
noting  how  well  their  colouring  adapted  itself  to  their 
temporary  environment.  On  light  leaves  they  are  light 
coloured,  on  dark  leaves  dark,  and  therefore  difficult  to 
see.  This  is  an  instance  of  protective  resemblance  which 
enables  them  to  escape  the  notice  of  their  enemies  and 
also  prevents  their  being  observed  hx  the  prev  thev  are 
watching  for.  It  is  realh'  amusing  to  see  how  a  tree  frog 
hunts  insects,  how  cleverlv  he  catches  them  and  how 
high  he  will  spring  in  order  to  seize  them. 

In  spite  of  the  rain,  which  had  fallen  abundanth',  and 
the  daih'  watering,  the  road  leading  from  Cannes  to  An- 
tibes  was  perceptible  onh'  as  a  long  streak  of  dust  inter- 
secting the  verdure  of  the  gardens.  This  white  streak  was 
particularly  distinct  in  the  afternoons,  when  carriage  after 
carriage  drove  along  the  road  raising  fresh  clouds  of  dust. 
This  powdered  limestone  is  as  fine  as  flour;  it  penetrates 
everything  and  rises  so  high  that  it  colours  all  the  trees 
in  the  neighbourhood  grey  to  their  very  tops.  Visitors 
to  Cannes  breathe  this  dust  everv  day  and  all  day,  regard- 
less of  the  fact  that  they  mostly  come  south  for  the  benefit 
of  their  lungs.  This  dust  unfortunately  prevails  in  man^• 
places  on  the  Riviera,    particularly    where   the   limestone 


LA  MALRE.  219 


mountains  reach  the  coast.  Hut  wliat  induces  invalids  to 
frequent  the  roads  or  live  near  them  I  I  m\selt"  detest 
dust,  e\en  thoucch  m^■  kings  are  sound.  I  am  a  ij|"ood 
walker  and  prefer  being  on  foot  to  driving.  So  the  Hotel 
was  ver\'  conveniently  situated  for  me.  From  it  there 
are  foot-paths  that  lead  ver\'  soon  to  wood  and  Macjuis. 
From  the  pine- clad  summits  of  La  Maure,  about  820  feet 
above  sea  level,  the  most  glorious  and  surprising  views 
are  obtainable  of  luxurianth^  green  valleys,  of  the  snowy 
Alps  and  the  blue  coast.  This  spring  the  Maritime 
Alps  were  particularh'  grand  as  the  snow  la^'  low  down 
on  them.  The^•  reminded  one  of  scenes  in  the  Bernese 
Oberland.  but  were  far  brighter,  being  bathed  in  the 
glor^'  of  the  Italian  sun,  I  was  quite  content  to  linger 
on  the  heights  of  La  Maure  under  the  Aleppo  Pines,  but 
I  avoided  the  "Observatoire"  on  principle,  it  being  the 
recognised  point  of  view  to  which  carriages  were  driven 
up  slowh',  in  the  afternoon,  b\'  tired  horses,  along  the 
dusty  road.  A  tower  has  been  erected  there,  from  \\hich, 
on  payment  of  a  fixed  fee,  vou  ma^'  admire  the  beauties 
of  Nature.  There  is  generalh'  a  crowd,  and  the  music 
from  a  neighbouring  inn  does  not  help  to  improve  one's 
frame  of  mind. 

CHAPTER  ITT. 

The  road  up  to  the  "Observatoire"  crosses  a  canal 
which  supplies  Cannes,  Golfe  Jouan  and  Antibes  with 
water.  It  conducts  the  same  water  which  the  Romans 
drank  in  Forum  Julii.  The\'  enclosed  one  of  the  springs 
of  the  Siagne,  above  Grasse,  and  conve\ed  the  water  to 


220  CANAL  NEAR  CANNES. 


Frejus  bv  means  of  a  covered  aqueduct,  which  had  to 
pass  through  a  tunnel  —  the  tunnel  of  Roquetaillado  — 
fifty  yards  long.  The  modern  canal  which  leads  to  Cannes 
is  considerably  inferior  to  the  Roman  aqueduct,  for  it  is 
not  covered  in  and  is  therefore  unprotected  against  pollution. 
From  La  Maure  this  canal  can  be  followed  in  a  north- 
westerly direction  for  miles.  A  foot-path  runs  beside  it, 
and  it  rises  so  imperceptibly  as  to  appear  almost  level. 
It  continues  in  winding  curves  along  the  hill-side  and 
commands  varied  views  of  Cannes  and  the  Esterel.  Soon 
we  find  ourselves  above  Le  Cannet,  a  village  north  of 
Cannes,  three  kilometres  from  the  sea,  and  well  sheltered 
by  hills  from  the  winds.  You  look  down  on  big  hotels,  for 
Le  Cannet  is  a  resort  for  those  invalids  to  whom  the  sea 
breeze  is  injurious.  Further  on  towards  the  north  Mougins 
crowns  an  isolated  hill  850  feet  high.  It  is  a  picturesque 
spot,  composed  of  compact  masses  of  houses  with  but  feu- 
windows  facing  outwards.  Thither  the  Oxybii  are  said 
to  have  once  retreated  when  the  Romans  occupied  the 
coast.  It  is  only  half  an  hour's  walk  from  Mougins  to 
the  tower  of  Castellars,  which  commands  by  far  the  most 
extensive  view  of  the  chain  of  Alps. 

All  the  hills  which  separate  Le  Cannet  from  V^allauris 
can  be  easily  reached  from  the  path  along  the  canal. 
From  their  summits  we  can  see,  beyond  Mougins,  Grasse 
bathed  in  sunshine  at  the  foot  of  the  grey  limestone 
hills;  and  to  the  east  in  the  hollow  below  lies  Vallauris. 
Farther  away  you  can  see  Golfe  Jouan,  Antibes,  Nice 
and  the  coast-line  in  the  hazy  distance;  and  above  the 
hills   that   shelter    Vallauris,    adding    a    magic    finishing 


COL    1)1   TENDA.  221 


touch  to  the  whole  scene,   are  tlie  snowy  masses  around 
the    Col    di    Tenda.     'I'he    Italians    have    for   some    years 
been    constructing  a  railway    which    is    to  connect  Turin 
with  the  Mediterranean  coast,  and  the  line  is  finished  from 
Turin  uj-)  tlie  nortliern  slope  of  the  pass  to  Limone.  There 
is  already  a  long  tunnel  running  under  the  Col  di  Tenda, 
which  affords  facilit}'  for  traffic.    Here  the  valley  of  the 
Roja  begins  and  reaches  the  coast   at  Ventimiglia.     But 
political  objections  and  conflicting  interests  have  combined 
to  interfere  with  its  progress,   and  the  railway  is,  conse- 
quently, not  yet  completed.    It  is  even  undecided  whether 
the   terminus    is    to   be  at  \'entimiglia  or  at  Nice.     This 
line  will  in  time  open  up  a  splendid  part  of  the  country, 
for  the  Gola  di  Gandarena,  through  which  the  Roja  rushes 
between  sky-high  precipices,   is  scarcely  less  grand  than 
the  V'm  Mala.    Hitherto  this  mighty  gorge,  which  is  one 
of  the  most  imposing  in  the  Alps,  has  only  been  known 
to  those  who  visited  the    small    village  of   St.  Dalmazzo 
di  Tenda  for  the  baths  in  the  summer  season;  or  to  those 
who    ventured    on    the   journey   early   in    spring  over  the 
Col    di  Tenda   in    spite    of  deep  snow.     We 
did  this   once 
and       have 

never    forgot-  ^^^ 

ten    the    im-     >^^^»Br.    ^^ktL^^-    ^P^^^m^  \  f 
pression        it    ^-' 
made      on      us. 
When    the    rail- 
way   from    Cuneo     to 

the      coast      is      at      last  Ilalunel  OpunHa. 


222  VALLAURIS. 


completed  it  will  be  the  shortest  route  between  the  south 
of  Switzerland  and  the  health  resorts  of  the  Western 
Riviera.  The  road  over  the  Col  di  Tenda  is  said  to  be 
the  oldest  that  united  the  Gallic  coast  to  the  plains  of 
northern  Italy.  It  is  probably  the  \'ia  Herculea  which 
was  constructed  b^'  the  Phoenicians  twelve  or  thirteen 
hundred  ^ears  before  Christ  in  order  to  connect  Spain 
and  North  Ital}-  b^'  a  route  across  the  Maritime  Alps. 

Vallauris,  insignificant  as  it  is,  has  managed  to  achieve 
a  certain  reputation.  This  it  <nves  to  its  brighth'  coloured 
semi -porcelain  ware,  the  "Faiences  d'Art",  which  is  to  be 
seen  not  onU'  on  the  Riviera,  but  in  shop  windows  of  all 
the  larger  European  to\\ns.  It  is  lead-glazed  earthenware 
baked  in  a  very  hot  furnace.  The  Massier  family  are  the 
chief  proprietors  of  this  industr}',  and  their  name  is  to  be 
seen  everywhere  on  the  Avarehouses  and  the  factories.  The 
large  warehouse  in  Golfe  Jouan  particularl}-  attracts  the 
attention  of  strangers  as  thcA'  drive  along  the  dusty  high- 
wa\-  between  Cannes  and  Antibes,  on  account  of  its  garden 
gaily  ornamented  —  or  rather  disfigured  —  with  coloured 
faience ! 

Although  Vallauris  has  not  much  to  boast  of  in  it- 
self the  excursions  among  the  hills  in  its  neighbourhood 
are  most  attractive.  From  \^allauris  you  can  walk 
through  a  pleasant  ravine  down  to  Golfe  Jouan,  or 
through  the  wood  on  the  slope  of  the  hill,  past  Cannes- 
Eden,  straight  back  to  Cannes.  In  the  woods  here  Cork 
Oaks  are  still  numerous,  while  further  east  there  are  none. 
This  is  due  to  the  difference  in  the  soil,  for  mica-schist 
and    gneiss    crop    up    here    and    there    near    Cannes    and 


STE.  MARGUERITE. 223 

produce     similar    vegetation    to    that    in    tlie    Montagnes 
des  Maures. 

CHAPTER   iV. 

The  ishmd  ot  Ste.  Marguerite  lies  about  three  quar- 
ters of  a  mile  from  the  extreme  point  ot  the  Croisette  and 
can  be  reached  b\-  boat  in  twenty  minutes.  Twice  a  day 
a  small  steamer  plies  between  the  port  of  Cannes  and  tlie 
lies  de  Lerins.  It  touches  at  both  islands,  and  the  ex- 
cursion mav  be  prolonged  into  the  afternoon  if  vou  go  by 
the  first  steamer  and  return  b\-  the  last.  We  wished  to 
see  the  coast  lighted  up  at  evening  from  the  lies  de 
Lerins,  so  took  a  boat  at  tlie  Croisette  in  the  afternoon. 
The  brilliant  sunlight  reflected  on  the  smooth  sea  made  it 
look,  like  burnished  steel.  A  bluish  haze  lav  on  the  water. 
The  island  opposite  drew  nearer  till  the  walls  surrounding 
the  Fort,  built  b\'  Richelieu,  were  sharph'  outlined.  Above 
the  rocks  to  the  east  peep  forth  the  windows  of  this  no- 
torious prison  which  has  on  more  than  one  occasion  so 
strangeh'  riveted  the  attention  of  the  public.  For  here  was 
incarcerated  that  mysterious  prisoner,  known  as  the  ''Man 
in  the  Iron  Mask",  whose  identit^•  has  exercised  the 
ingenuit^'  of  historians.  Marius  Topin  has  counted  no  less 
than  fort\--two  authors,  from  the  time  of  \'oltaire  to  the 
\'ear  1870,  who  ha\e  written  about  this  prisoner.  Xeverthe- 
less  the  riddle  was  not  solved  and  renewed  attempts  were 
made  to  elucidate  the  mASterv.  The  result  was,  as  Paul 
deSaint-\  ictor  expressed  it,  "un  concours  d'Oedipesautour 
du  Sphinx  enchaine".  Voltaire  had  maintained  that  the 
mysterious  prisoner  was  a  brother  of  Louis  XI\',  and  b\ 


224  MAN  IN  THE  IRON   MASK.  

means  of  Alexandre  Dumas'  novel,  ''Le  Mcomte  de  Brage- 
lonne",  this  fable  was  spread  far  and  wide.    After  most 
careful  sifting  of  all  the  documentary  evidence  by  Funk- 
Brentano  in  the  ""Revue  Historique"  of  1894,  we  may  take 
it  as  proved  that  the  "Man  in  the  Iron  Mask"  was  Count 
Hercules  Anthony  Mattioli,  Minister  of  State  to  the  Duke 
Charles  IV    of   Mantua.     In    1770   Baron   Heiss,    "ancien 
capitaine  du  regiment  d'Alsace",  a  prominent  bibhophile 
had  alread}'  expressed  this  opinion  which,  however,  was 
not  generally  accepted,  and  the  same    assertion  by  later 
experts  met  with  as  little  credence.  The  report  that  the 
prisoner  was  a  scion  of  the  Roval  House  gained  great  popu- 
larity during  the  French  Revolution.*  And  yet  Baron  Heiss 
was  right.  This  Mattioli,  with  whom  he  had  identified  the 
"Man  in  the  Iron  Mask",    was   born  in   1640  in  Bologna 
and  came  of  a  much  respected  family.    He  early  distin- 
guished himself  by  his  abilities,  and  soon  after  his  twen- 
tieth ^•ear  was  elected  Professor  at  the  University  of  Bo- 
logna. Charles  III  of  Gonzaga  made  him  his  Secretary  of 
State,   and  his  successor  Charles  IV  made  him  his  Min- 
ister.    Mattioli  was  very  ambitious  and  intriguing.     The 
Abbe  d'Estrade,  Louis  XIV's  ambassador  at  the  Venetian 
court,  took  advantage  of  these  weaknesses  to  make  use  of 
him    for  the  King's  plans.    Mattioli  had  induced  the  friv- 
olous Duke  of  Modena,  who  was  always  in  money  diffi- 
culties, to  sell  the  fortress  of  Casale  Monferrato  to  France, 
and  this  won  for  him  the  favour  of  Louis  XIV.  Since  gaining 
possession  of  the  fortress  of  Pignerolo,  the  French  had  been 
masters  of  the  approach  to  Piedmont;  and  the  acquisition 
of  Casale  had  now  given  them  access  to  the  fertile  plain 


Tin-:    MAN    l\    THE  IRON  MASK.  225 


ol  Milan.  I'^or  brini»'iii<»"  this  alioiit,  Louis  XI\  lliaiikod 
MatlioH  in  an  autoij^rajih  letter,  received  liini  at  N'ersailles. 
and  rewarded  liini  with  nioiKW  and  costh'  ccitts.  All  tliis 
did  not  pre^•ent  Mattioli.  two  months  later,  trom  betra\'ing 
to  Austria  the  desio-ns  ot  Louis  XI\'  and  those  of  the  Duke. 
Louis  XI\'  and  Louvois  were  greath'  enraged  and  agi- 
tated at  this.  The  Abbe  d'Estrade  was  commissioned  to 
seize  ^hlttioli  hv  stratagem.  Pretending  not  to  know  an\- 
tliing  about  tlie  betra\al,  the  Abbe  enticed  Mattioli  to  a 
]-)lace  close  outside  the  town  under  the  pretext  of  pa\'ing 
him  further  moneys  for  his  services.  The  carriage  contain- 
ing the  Abbe  and  Mattioli  was  immediately  surrounded, 
and  Nhittioli  was  consigned  to  the  fortress  of  Pignerolo. 
x\s  the  affair  invohed  a  ver^•  serious  violation  of  national 
rights  it  had  to  be  kept  secret,  and  Louis  XIV's  ex- 
press orders  were  that  no  one  was  to  kno^y  what  had  become 
of  Mattioli.  Mattioli  was  therefore  compelled,  whenever  he 
went  abroad,  to  wear  a  mask,  not  of  iron,  but  of  black 
velvet.  At  Pignerolo  Mattioli  had  been  handed  over  to 
the  notorious  w'-lt.  ^Lirs.  and  he  was  obliged  to  follow  him 
to  the  island  of  Ste.  ]\Lirguerite,  and  later  to  the  Bastille, 
where  he  died  on  November  19"^,  1703.  Louis  XIV's  ex- 
planation to  Madame  de  Pompadour,  who  repeated  it  to 
the  Due  de  Choiseul,  nameh-  that  the  Man  with  the  Mask 
had  been  an  Italian  Minister,  corroborates  this.  Later 
Louis  X\'l  also,  gave  the  same  exjilanation  to  Marie  An- 
toinette, So  that  in  realit\'  the  legend  concerned  a  man  of 
but  little  importance,  who  does  not  seem  to  have  even  merit- 
ed any  sxmpathy,  and  it  was  onh'  the  mask  which  he  was 
compelled  to  wear,  that  lent  so  much  interest  to  the  story. 


226  BAZAINE. 


It  is  said  that  after  the  Revocation  of  the  Edict  of 
Nantes  bv  Louis  XIV,  Protestant  ministers  also  had 
languished  in  this  prison.  Napoleon  I,  on  the  other  hand, 
imprisoned  a  Roman  Catholic  priest  here  —  de  Broglie, 
Bishop  of  Ghent.  Then  there  were  less  distinguished  pri- 
soners, such  as  Mamalukes.  But  the  imprisonment 
of  Bazaine  again  attracted  universal  attention  to  Ste. 
Marguerite.  Bazaine  succeeded  in  escaping.  His  wife, 
a  voung  Mexican,  and  his  former  Adjutant  Villette 
who  had  accompanied  him  to  Ste.  Marguerite,  aided  his 
flight.  It  is  said  that  he  let  himself  down  by  a  rope  to 
the  rocks  and  waited  for  his  wife  in  tattered  clothes,  with 
wounded  hands  and  blood-stained  face.  He  was  then  ob- 
liged to  cast  himself  into  the  sea  and  swim  to  the  boat 
which  had  come  to  fetch  him,  as  the  stormv  waves  pre- 
vented its  landing.  But  it  is  quite  certain  that  this 
was  a  fable,  deliberately  invented  to  conceal  the  truth.  It 
seems  probable  that  secret  orders  were  given  to  let 
Bazaine  escape,  in  which  case  his  wife  would  be  sure 
to  meet  him. 

It  was  as  calm  as  a  lake  near  these  rocks  today,  and 
we  landed  with  ease  on  the  stony  shore.  The  Fortress 
itself  is  hardly  worth  a  visit,  unless  you  wish  to  be  edi- 
lied  by  the  extraordinary  thickness  of  the  walls,  and  the 
triple  grating  to  the  windows  in  the  prison  rooms.  Sol- 
diers invalided  home  from  Algiers  and  the  more  distant 
colonies,  are  now  lodged  in  the  Fortress.  From  the  terrace 
they  can  enjoy  a  distant  prospect  of  overwhelming  gran- 
deur, but  they  seem  to  prefer  to  sleep  the  day  away  in 
the  Pine  woods  close  by. 


SMYRNlUiM. 


FERULA. 


227 


We  also  \\ished  to  go  there,  so  we  took  the  path  up 
o\er  the  slope  west  of  the  Fortress.  We  are  soon  in  the 
midst  of  the  bushes  of  the  Maquis.  What  strikes  us  most 
is  the  luxuriant  irrowth  of  the  Umbellates  around  us.  We 
had  seen  quantities  of  the  modest  Smyrnmm  Olusatruw 
in  other  places  on  the  Riviera,  and  had  alwius  noticed 
it  on  account  of  its  llowers  which  are  of  an  unusual  colour 
lor  Umbellates  - —  a  peculiar  golden  green.  It  received 
its  specific  name  of  Olusainini  (Black  kitchen  herb),  be- 
cause its  young  leaves  and  shoots  were  eaten  as  a  vege- 
table b^'  the  Romans.  Another  Umbellate,  the  Ferula 
nodiilora,  which  we  found  side  b^'  side  with  the  Sm^'r- 
nium,  grows  over  two  yards  high.  We  had  seen  similar 
Ferulas  in  the  Gardens  of  La  Mortola.  Here  the^'  grow 
in  masses  and  J^ stamp  the  scenery  with  such  a  peculiar 


character  that 
transported  t 


one  could  imagine  oneself   suddenh' 

quite   a   different  region.     The  deep 

\     \'ellow  umbels  diffuse  a  strong 

•^^     fragrance  resembling  that  of 

Elder  flowers.    Although  so  earl\- 

/     in   the  year   these  plants 

were    in    full    bloom    on 

this     ver\'     warm     island, 

and  amongst  them,  the 

/       ^Vsphodels  (Asphodchis 

'1^.     raniosiis).  had  unfolded 

their  white 


lUlichrysum  Sloechas. 


'/ 


ki 


Tc\AJ 


>^^ 


228 ILE  STE.  MARGUERITE. 

inflorescences  which  were  a  vard  high  and  much  branched. 
Thus  we  were  surrounded  bv  classical  plants  —  the  Fe- 
rula, whose  pith  smoulders  like  tinder  and  is  said  to  have 
been  used  bv  Prometheus  in  order  to  steal  the  fire  from 
Olvmpus;  and  the  Asphodel  which  forms  meadows  in  the 
nether  world  where  Minos  holds  jurisdiction  over  souls. 
We  enjoyed  a  singularh'  prett^•  view  of  the  opposite  coast 
framed,  as  it  were,  bv  these  plants.  Stretched  out  before 
us  lav  Cannes,  coquettishlv  gav  in  the  brilliant  sunshine. 
The  snowy  masses  of  the  Alps  seemed  to  be  floating  in 
the  air  beyond  Golfe  Jouan,  veiled  in  that  bright  blue 
mist  peculiar  to  the  sk\'  of  Provence.  From  the  blue  ex- 
panse of  sea  and  the  green  hills  of  the  coast  the  land- 
scape rises  step  bv  step,  culminating  in  the  grand  snow- 
capped giants  of  the  Alps.  It  required  some  resolution 
to  tear  oneself  awav  from  this  spot  and  to  continue  the 
excursion  to  the  opposite  shore  of  the  island.  An  avenue 
of  Eucalyptus  trees  leads  through  the  Pine  wood,  at  the 
end  of  which  the  boat  awaits  us. 

Immediateh'  in  front  of  us  now  lav  the  island 
of  St.  Honorat,  separated  from  Ste.  Marguerite  onlv 
by  a  narrow  channel.  Most  enjoyable  is  the  passage 
across  the  shallow  water  whose  azure  tones  blend 
with  the  colours  of  the  clear  sea -bottom,  of  the  dark 
ledges  of  rock,  bright  patches  of  Algae,  and  green 
meadows  of  Grass-wrack  (Poseidouia).  Down  below 
the  water  shows  every  shade  of  sapphire-blue,  emerald- 
green  and  purple:  it  varies  in  tint  like  opal,  glistens 
like  mother-of-pearl  and  is  reflected  quiveringly  against 
the  gliding  boat. 


ILE  ST.  HONORAT.  229 


The  He  St.  1  lonorat  was  called  b^•  the  Romans 
"Lerina".  St.  Iloni^ratus  came  fri)m  his  hermitage  in  the 
Esterel  to  this  island  in  the  bet^inning-  of  the  fifth  century. 
He  found  it.  so  the  legend  runs,  full  of  poisonous  snakes 
which  made  it  impossible  to  live  there.  But  the  Saint 
pronounced  a  great  anathema  over  the  snakes  and  the\' 
were  destro^•ed.  He  climbed  up  a  Palm  tree  and,  at  his 
entreat^■,  the  sea  came  and  washed  the  snakes  awa^•;  he 
pra\ed  to  God  and  out  of  the  ground  a  spring  gushed 
forth.  St.  Honoratus  was  soon  joined  hv  Caprasius,  the 
old  man  who  in  later  times  was  also  honoured  as  a  Saint. 
Followers  came  from  all  parts,  and  the  monastery  then 
established  soon  gained  a  considerable  reputation.  There 
St.  \'incent.  one  of  the  most  prominent  monks  of  Lerin, 
wrote  the  "Commonitorium"  against  heres^',  a  work  which 
is  often  cited  in  our  times  in  controversies  about  the 
dogma  of  infallibility,  particularh'  the  following  sentence: 
"What  has  been  believed  by  all,  ever^•where  and  always, 
that  is  truly  catholic".  To  this  monaster\-  also  belonged 
St.  Hilarius,  who,  like  St.  Honoratus,  later  became  Bishop 
of  Aries:  likewise  St.  Maximus,  who  held  the  see  of 
Frejus;  then  Faustus,  Bishop  of  Reji,  who  is  reckoned 
among  the  Saints,  but  whose  orthodox\'  was  very  much 
doubted;  then  St.  Salvian,  St.  Valerian  and  the  two  sons 
of  vSt.  Eucharius;  St.  \"eranius,  St.  vSalonius  and  man\- 
others.  From  the  little  island  Lerina.  which  was  named 
St.  Honorat  after  the  founder  of  her  monaster\',  no  less 
than  twelve  archbishops,  twelve  bishops,  twelve  abbots 
and  four  monks  were  canonised.  "Oh  blessed  hermitage. 
Oh  thrice  happy  island  that  hast  trained   so   many   sons 


230  MONASTERY  OF  ST.  HONORAT. 

of  Heaven!"  Well  might  the  Archbishop  of  Aries,  Cae- 
sarius,  son  of  the  Count  of  Chalons,  exclaim  on  his  death- 
bed, in  the  year  542:  "Beata  et  felix  insula  Lvrinensis!" 
In  honour  of  all  these  Saints  a  special  festival  —  that  of 
"All  Saints  of  Lerina"  —  was  celebrated  on  the  15'''  of 
May.  About  the  )'ear  690  the  monaster\'  numbered  up- 
wards of  3/00  monks.  How  could  the^'  all  have  found 
room  on  the  little  island,  which  is  onh'  about  a  thousand 
paces  long  and  four  hundred  paces  broad!  This  sudden 
prosperity  of  the  monastery  carried  with  it  the  germs  of 
destruction.  The  ascetic  life  disappeared  more  and  more. 
At  the  time  when  St.  Caesarius  was  a  monk  at  the  monas- 
tery the  rules  of  the  Order  were  extremely  strict.  Each 
monk  lived  alone  in  his  cell  and  there  was  neither  a 
dormitor\'  nor  a  kitchen,  St.  Caesarius  lived  on  herbs 
and  broths  which  he  cooked  on  Sunda\s  for  the  whole 
week.  All  this  was  altered  later,  and  by  the  end  of  the 
seventeenth  century,  as  Abbe  Disdier  relates,  the  Popes 
were  compelled  to  interfere  in  order  to  restrain  the  irreg- 
ularity of  the  monks.  Saint  Aigulf,  sent  there  to  establish 
rigorous  discipline  and  to  convert  the  monks  to  a  better 
mode  of  life,  was  mutilated  b\-  them  and  handed  over 
to  pirates.  When  the  Saracens  came,  in  the  year  7^'2, 
they  plundered  the  monastery  and  murdered  all  its  in- 
mates. Only  St.  Eleutherius  was  left  alive,  concealed  in 
an  inaccessible  crevice  of  the  rock,  where  he  supported 
himself  on  roots  and  shellfish  for  a  space  of  eight  days. 
The  monastery  flourished  again  to  some  extent,  but  the 
security  and  peace  of  former  days  had  vanished  from  the 
island;    and  the  abbot  Adalbert,   in  the  year  10/3,  built 


MONASTERY  OF  vST.  HONORAT.  231 

a  stroiiir  quadrangular  lower  on  the  shore  facintr  Africa, 
and  keeping;  watcli  o\er  tlie  sea.  This  tower  was  lari^e 
enoujrli  to  accommodate  all  the  monks;  the\'  could  hide 
the  monasterA'  treasures  in  it  and  also  defend  themselves 
effectively  from  their  old  enemies  the  pirates  and  Saracens. 
Thus  it  came  to  pass  that  the  monastery  not  onh-  con- 
tmued  to  exist,  hut  also  enjo\-ed  great  prosperit\"  and 
produced  man\'  an  abbot  of  spiritual  eminence.  In  the 
sixteenth  centur\-  it  possessed  one  of  the  richest  sanc- 
tuaries and  a  famous  librar^-.  But  in  the  seventeenth 
century,  during  tlie  pontificate  of  Gregory  XV,  it  began 
to  fall  into  deca\';  and  when  it  was  secularised  in  the 
year  17i>8  it  numbered  but  four  monks.  The  treasures 
of  the  monaster^•  were  divided  between  the  churches  of 
the  neighbouring  parishes.  Man^'  valuable  objects  dis- 
appeared during  the  French  Revolution,  amongst  them 
a  silver  reliquar^'  containing  the  remains  of  St.  Honoratus 
which  had  been  deposited  in  Cannes.  This  artistically 
worked  reliquary  dated  from  the  time  of  Francis  I.  who 
after  the  battle  of  Pavia  passed  the  night  of  June  2P'  1525 
as  a  prisoner  in  tlie  monastery  In  the  \'ear  17*'l  the 
monastery  was  sold  hv  auction  and  strangeh'  enough 
afterwards  came  into  the  possession  of  an  actress,  whose 
father,  Alziar\-  de  Roquefort,  had  purchased  it.  She  her- 
self, under  the  name  of  Sainval,  liad  achieved  brilliant 
triumphs  at  the  Comedie  Francaise  and  retired  hither  out  of 
pitjue  against  her  rival  the  equalh'  celebrated  N'estris.  and 
lived  tor  a  time  in  one  of  the  monks'  cells  in  the  strong  tower. 
The  island  of  Ste.  Marguerite  was  called  hv  the 
Romans,  "Lero".  Strabo  relates  that  a  temple  once  adorned 


232 STE.  MARGUERITE. 

this  island  and  that  the  Ligurian  pirates  offered  up  sacri- 
fices there.  There  is  a  legend  which  connects  the  name 
of  Ste.  Marguerite,  which  the  island  now  bears,  with  the 
sister  of  St.  Honoratus.  It  relates  how,  longing  very 
much  to  see  her  brother,  Marguerite  came  to  Lerina  and 
fell  at  his  feet.  The  rules  of  the  Order  prohibited  the 
presence  of  women  at  Lerina,  so  St.  Honoratus  took  his 
sister  to  the  island  of  Lero.  where  she  abode  and  became 
Abbess.  Marguerite  bid  her  brother  farewell  under  a 
cherry  tree  in  full  bloom  and  he  had  to  promise  that  he 
would  go  and  see  her  as  often  as  the  tree  blossomed. 
The  holy  Abbess  prayed  so  effectively  that  the  cherry 
tree  blossomed  every  month! 

In  the  )'ear  1869  monks  again  inhabited  the  monastery 
of  St.  Honorat.  The  see  of  Frejus  had  acquired  this 
monastery  in  the  ^-ear  1859,  and  ten  years  later  sent 
Cistercians  thither.  These  monks  are  clothed  in  white 
with  black  caps,  black  girdles  and  scapularies.  Women 
are  not  permitted  to  enter  the  monaster's',  but  the^'  do 
not  lose  much  by  this,  for  scarcely  anything  remains  of 
the  older  parts  of  the  building,  and  the  church  is  of 
quite  recent  origin.  The  castle  erected  beyond  the 
monastery  on  the  sea  shore  has  far  wider  claims  to 
mterest,  and  ladies  are  not  prohibited  from  visiting  it. 
It  is  a  strong  building  of  cut  stone  that  has  defied  the 
ravages  of  time.  Pierced  b^-  but  few  windows  and  battle- 
mented,  it  distinctly  shows  the  purpose  for  which  it  was 
originally  built.  Seen  from  some  distance  this  grey  castle 
stands  out  strikingly  from  the  sea  and  the  violet  back- 
ground  of  the  Esterel  mountains ;    the    dark   green  Pine 


CASTLE  ON    ST.   IIONORAT. 


233 


trees,  overhanging  ihc  shore,  form  a  frame  to  the  picture. 
In  times  of  danger  all  the  monks  of  the  monaster\'  were 
able  to  take  refuge  with  their  treasure  in  this  castle.  A 
cistern  in  the  middle  of  the  open  courtyard  supplied 
the  necessary  drinking  water,    Picturest|ue  colonnades 

rise    in     two   Mj  tiers     around     it.        Ruined    arches, 

rooms  half  '/J^  choked  up  with  earth,  secret  staircases 
leading  CN /)  .''  to  subterranean  chambers  succeed  each 
other  in  — '\'  bewildering  confusion.  The  castle  was  at 
once    both   '^  monastery    and    fortress,    characteristic 

ot  that  age  If^..  \\-hen  the  same  hand  often  held  both 
sword  and  LX5r'  cross;  an  age  of  passionate  excitement, 
blind  and  rimd  in  its  force  of    con- 


yasniinuin 
fniticans. 

foot  of  the 
crevices    of 


V  ji    1  ^       \iction,  and  yet  not  wanting  in  crea- 
^  tive  power  and  in  a  peculiar 

poetic  sentiment    of   its 
[A-r^       own.    A  winding  stair- 
case  leads    to    the   top 
>  ^     of  the  tower  whence 

-^      a  Ime  prospect  is  un- 
folded to  view.    We 
look     down     on    the 
/^    Ca_>^     lies  de  Lerins,  which 
seem    to    tloat    upon    the  sea 
like    rafts    of  green,    and  we 
command    a    view    of  the   whole    stretch 
of    the    coast    from    St.    Tropez    to    the 
mountains  of  Bordighera.    —    From    the 
castle    to    its    ver\'    top,    growing   in    the 
the    walls,    is    a    Crucifer.      This    is    the 


234 THE   WILD   STOCK. 

violet  sweet  -  scented  Winter-stock  (Matthiola  incana, 
Fig.  p.  289),  called  in  German  '•Levkojen",  which  visitors 
to  the  island  are  so  eager  to  get,  but  which  fortunately 
has  established  itself  on  the  castle  in  quite  inaccessible 
places.  This  plant  grows  wild  here,  for  the  Mediterranean 
region  is  its  habitat.  It  is  not  named  after  its  former  neigh- 
bour the  "Man  with  the  Iron  Mask",  but  after  Pietro  Andrea 
Mattiolo  of  Siena,  who  called  himself  Matthiolus  and  was 
Imperial  Physician  in  Menna  during  the  first  half  of  the 
sixteenth  century.  He  also  gained  a  great  reputation  as 
a  botanist,  particularly  as  Commentator  on  Dioscorides. 
The  Greek  "Leucoion"',  which  in  German  has  changed  into 
Levkoje,  means  white  violet.  A  great  number  of  plants 
were  called  by  the  Greeks  "violets"  and  these  were 
distinguished  from  each  other  by  means  of  additional 
adjectives.  Our  Violet  proper  was  called  b^■  Theo- 
phrastus  "melanion",  the  dark,  while  the  Stock,  Wallflower 
and  the  Dame's  \^iolet  {Hesperis)  go  b\'  the  name  of 
"Leucoion",  light  violets.  The  Romans  used  the  word 
"Viola"  in  the  same  way,  adding  the  term  "purpurea" 
when  they  meant  our  \  iolet. 

St.  Honorat  is  much  smaller  than  her  sister  isle,  but 
St.  Honoratus  chose  it  as  the  site  of  his  monastery 
on  account  of  the  spring  there.  Jagged  rocks  jut  up 
out  of  the  sea  near  the  castle,  they  are  called  the  "monks" 
and  form  a  natural  defence  to  the  island.  The  force  of 
the  sea  is  broken  h\  them  when  storms  from  the  south 
drive  the  waves  against  the  island.  There  are  a  tew 
chapels  on  the  beach,  relics  of  by-gone  times;  fragments 
of  marble  pillars  and  capitals  may  be  found  amidst  M^Ttle 


\'i:(ii:  r.\  ri(  )N  oi-^  sr.  iionorat.  :.v=^ 

and  LlmUiscus.  roniindcrs  o\  lornuM-  splendour.  For  littcen 
centuries  did  the  monks  remain  masters  of  tliese  islands, 
as  well  as  of  part  of  the  opposite  mainland.  'rhe\'  now 
de\()te  tliemseUes  to  an  Orjilian  As\lum  which  stands 
near  the  monaster\'.  There  the  bo^•s  learn  various  crafts. 
The  building  also  contains  a  printing-  press,  in  which  old 
ecclesiastical  works  are  reproduced.  IMiis  press  presented 
Pope  Leo  XIII.  on  tlie  occasion  of  his  jubilee,  with  a 
riclih'  ornamented  work  containin<r  tlie  "Mao"nificat" 
translated  into  "a  hundred  and  tift\"'  different  tongues. 
The  monks  ha\e  recentU-  begun  to  manufacture  a  Lic|ueur. 
made  from  lierbs.  which  is  called  '"Lerina"'  after  tlie 
ancient  name  of  the  island. 

As  the  giant  Ferulas  predominate  in  the  vegetation 
of  the  He  Ste.  Marguerite,  so  does  the  Cistus  in  ^^t.  Honorat. 
Tliere  is  no  lack  of  Pine  trees  either  on  this  island,  indeed 
the\-  cover  tlie  greater  part  of  it;  but  it  is  the  rich 
colouring  of  tlie  Cistus  which  leaves  the  strongest  im- 
pression on  m\  niemor\'.  The  following  species  of  Cistus: 
6".  alhidi/s  (Fig.  p.  cSo),  i)n>iL<pcIi(V/:<is  (Fig.  p.  89),  salvii- 
fo/i'iis  ( Fig  p.  95 ),  are  represented  here  in  countless 
numbers,  and  were  in  such  profusion  of  bloom  as  I  had 
never  before  seen.  These  plants  ever  delighted  me  anew, 
especialh'  the  sil\er\-  C.  alhfc/iis  with  its  large  soft  satiny 
j)ink  blossoms.  1  lere  also  the  remarkable  tier\--coloured 
parasite,  Cytimis  Hxpocistis.  wliich  grows  on  the  roots 
ot  the  Cistuses.  was  so  abundant  that  one  could  easiU' 
have  gathered  large  bunches  of  it.  On  these  islands. 
with  their  luxuriant  growth,  one  revels  in  the  Mediterranean 
vegetation  and  enjoxs  the  incomjiarable  beaut\'  of  Nature. 

10 


236  THE  SQUIRTING  CUCUMBER. 


The\'  are  iewels  on  this  exejuisite  coast.  Close  to  the 
castle,  on  the  seashore,  was  the  GlmiciiDU  LiitciDii  already 
in  tlower.  that  handsome  horned  Popp\'  distinguished  b^' 
its  glaucous  foliage  and  large  delicate  lemon-vellow  tiowers. 
Not  far  off,  spreading  in  ever\'  direction,  was  one  ot  the 
Gourd  famih-,  Echalliuni  Elaterhim,  the  "vSeiuirting  Cu- 
cumber". From  its  prostrate  stem  rise  large  hair\'  leaves 
and  unattractive  dull  Aellow-veined  flowers  which  are 
unisexual.  This  plant  is  distributed  over  the  Mediterranean 
region:  its  juice  is  strongh'  purgative  and  was  prescribed 
\i\  Hippocrates  for  this  purpose.  It  owes  its  name  to 
the  extraordinarv  behaviour  of  its  ripe  fruits.  These  are 
cylindrical,  greenish  mellow,  bristlv.  and  attached  to  a 
recurved  pedicel.  If  a  ripe  fruit  be  touched  it  detaches 
itself  suddenh'  from  its  stalk  and  squirts  its  contents  with 
great  force  to  a  distance.  This  phenomenon  is  caused 
b\-  the  interior  tissue  of  the  fruit  becoming  mucilaginous 
as  it  ripens ;  this  at  length  severs  the  connection  with 
the  stalk.  At  the  same  time  certain  cell-layers  of  the 
walls  being  in  a  state  of  tension,  exert  a  strong  pressure 
on  the  contents  and  the  slightest  shock  is  sufficient  to 
cause  the  separation  of  the  fruit  from  the  stalk  and  the 
expulsion  of  tlie  seeds  through  the  orilice  thus  produced. 
The  object  of  this  singular  arrangement  is  the  dispersal 
of  the  seeds. 

Eastward  of  St.  Honorat  lies  the  rockv  islet  of 
St,  Fereol,  Its  soil  is  covered  mainh-  b^■  a  rank  growth 
of  Rue,  Ruta  hracteosa.  This  plant  reminds  one  very 
much  of  our  garden  Rue,  but  its  smell  is  so  unpleasant 
and  penetrating  that  one   rather  avoids  touching  it. 


I  LI'.    ST.    Fi:i>!i:OL.  237 

While  lri»'end  and  hislorx-  cncirck'  the  two  lies  de 
Lerins  as  it  were  with  a  haUi,  an  e.\traordinar\',  almost 
diMiioniacal.  in\  tli  has  been  associated  with  vSt.  Fereol. 
It    was    said   ■ —   and    tlie    sa\in<r    is    still    current  that 

the  bod\'  of  Pao-anini  la\'  tor  a  time  buried  on  the  islet 
of  St.  bereol.  I  have  read  this  statement  in  French 
uorks.  "rhe\-  maintain  that  I^iq^anini  died  ot"  cliolera 
at  Nice  in  Ma\'  1S4().  and  tliat  his  son  Achille  had 
taken  the  remains  of  his  tather  hv  sliip  to  Genoa  in 
order  to  inter  them  in  liis  native  place.  But  the  priest- 
hood denied  biu'ial  to  the  man  of  whom  it  was  said 
that  he  had  pledged  himself  to  v^atan :  and  the  Muni- 
cipalit\'  would  not  permit  the  landing  of  the  bod^'  for 
fear  of  the  cholera.  The  son  tlien  tried  to  accomplisli 
liis  object  at  ^hlrseilles  but  did  not  succeed.  As  he 
was  retused  at  Cannes  also  he  decided  to  take  the 
coftin  bv  niglit  to  the  little  uninhabited  island,  and  there 
the  bod\"  remained  for  tive  \ears.  It  was  onh'  in  May 
1845  that  the  son  returned  after  having  obtained  per- 
mission to  bur\-  the  remains  of  his  father  in  the  church- 
\ard  of  (jajona,  near  Parma,  not  far  from  the  villa  that 
Paganini  had  owned.  This  tale  came  to  m\'  mind  on 
seeing  Paganini's  violin  in  the  magnificent  Palazzo  Doria 
Tursi.  now  tlie  I\alazzo  Municipio  at  Genoa.  This  was 
during  the  Columbian  Fete  when  the  members  of  the 
Scientific  Congress  were  received  h\  the  vSindaco  in  the 
rooms  of  the  Munici]3io.  The  violin  —  a  Guarneri  — 
trom  wliich  Paganini  once  drew  such  magic  strains,  is 
kept  like  a  sacred  relic  in  a  costlv  shrine.  During  the 
Fete    it    had    been    decorated    with   silken   ribbons  in   the 

10* 


238  PAGAN  IN  I. 

colours  of  Italy.  I  pondered  on  all  this  now  as  I  looked 
at  the  little  island  of  St.  Fereol  Wmg  before  me  in  the 
sea.  This  bright  scene  would  not  have  suited  the  £(looni\- 
spirit  of  Paganini.  The  loneh'  little  island  would  have 
pleased  him  better  when  the  raging  elements  drove  the 
foaminpf  waves  over  the  rocks,  while  the  wind  moaned 
and  shrieked  across  the  sea:  when  Nature  pla\'ed  weird 
music  on  her  G  string,  as  he  alone  knew  how  to  pla\' 
on  this  string  to  his  agitated  audience.  Yes,  certainly, 
this  spot  amid  the  surging  waves  would  be  more  appro- 
priate than  a  peaceful  church\ard  for  the  grave  of 
Paganini.  What  a  pit\'  that  the  stor\'  is  only  an  in- 
vention !  Paganini  really  died  at  Nice ,  in  the  \  ia 
Santa  Reparata,  of  consumption  of  the  throat  and  not  of 
cholera.  In  consequence  of  his  illness  he  had  long 
before  lost  his  voice.  As  he  refused  to  receive  the  last 
sacraments  the  priesthood  refused  him  Church  burial, 
and  this  onh-  took  place  some  \'ears  after.  Paganini's 
son,  who  is  still  living  in  Parma,  informs  me  that  since 
1(S76  his  father's  remains  have  lain  in  the  large  church- 
yard della  X'illetta,  after  the^'  had  been  carried  first 
to  \'illafranca  and  then  to  Genoa  —  restless  even  in 
death.  He,  the  son,  had  had  a  handsome  monument 
erected  over  the  grave  as  no  suitable  place  could  be 
found  for  it  in  Genoa.  Most  extraordinar^'  stories  were 
current  concerning  Paganini's  life,  and  these  gained  credence 
from  his  singular  appearance,  his  almost  spectral  atten- 
uation and  the  pallor  of  his  countenance,  on  which,  as 
Heine  wrote,  care,  genius  and  hell  had  graven  their 
indelible   marks.    Paganini  himself,  too.  contributed  in  no 


PAGANINI. 


239 


small    degree     to    the    spread    of    these    reports    by 

eccentric  conduct.   Hut  onlx- 

once,    while    in    Paris,    did 

he  feel  prompted  to  retute      "^^ 

the     stories    that    were 

printed    about    him  in 

the    newspapers.      In     yf: 

a     letter     which      he 
published  in  the  "Revue 
Musicale"    he    gave     an 
account    of  his  life    and      <M^'- 
assured    the  public  that     '' 
he  had  neither    murdered 
his  sweetheart  nor  been  iii 
prison,  nor  had  he  sig-        \ 
ned     himself     over     to      .  -" 
the  devil.     And  he  con- 
cluded with  the  hope  that 
they    would    at    least 
allow     his     ashes 
their    well-earned 
repose.     Yet    this    hope 
was  not  to    be    fuUilled. 
Even    a    marble    bust    of 
Paganini    in    the    Mlletta      . 
di    Xegro    at    (jenoa    dis- 
appeared  mysteriousK-    from 
that  place. 

N\'e    returned   to    the   is-  ^,  --ms??-  <» 

land    of  Ste.  Marguerite  and  w,  „,,,,,, 


his 


V 


u 


240  SUNSET  FROM  STE.  MARGUERITE. 

spent  the  time  until  sunset  on  the  northern  slope  which 
is  covered  with  Ferula.  The  fiery  ball  disappeared  in 
radiance  behind  the  Esterel  mountains.  On  the  high  hills 
to  the  north-east  long  streaks  of  mist  were  floating;  they 
filled  the  hollows  of  the  valleys,  then  ascended  to  the 
snow  of  the  Alps,  turned  violet  and  rose  coloured,  then 
disappeared,  leaving  no  trace.  Now  the  chain  of  giant 
peaks  stood  out  sharp  against  the  blue  skv.  Soon  they, 
too,  blushed  rosv-red,  then  kindled  to  purple  which  gradu- 
ally died  away,  and  finally  became  a  dead  white.  The 
last  glow  of  davlight  still  lingered  on  the  deep,  its  smooth 
surface  showing  those  faint  reflections  peculiar  to  old 
Venetian  mirrors:  then  it  began  to  change  colour  and 
vary  in  tint  like  opal.  The  purple,  vanishing  from  the 
hills,  spread  over  the  evening  sky  and  soon  covered  the 
sea.  Mysteriously  moaning,  its  ruddy  waves  now  lapped 
the  rocky  shore.  The  sky  over  the  Alps  assumed  a  pale 
green  tint  and  then  it  became  dark.  Innumerable  stars 
appeared  in  the  heavens  and  countless  lights  flickered 
along  the  coast.  We  stepped  into  the  boat  again  and 
glided  away  softly  over  the  water.  A  fresh  breeze  fanned 
our  faces,  and  we  rejoiced  to  inhale  the  invigorating  air. 
We  hardly  exchanged  a  word  and  only  broke  the  silence 
when  we  had  landed  at  the  Croisette. 

CHAPTER  V. 

Cannes  was  under  the  jurisdiction  of  the  Abbots  of 
Lerin.  They  had  received  the  place  from  William  of 
Gruetta,  a  son  of  Redouard,  Count  of  Antibes.  In  the 
year  1080   Abbot  Adalbert   commenced   the    building   of 


CAXNi:S.  241 

that  castle  wluise  ruins  still  crown  Mont  Chevalier.  The 
old  town  of  Cannes  rests  on  the  slope  ot  this  iiill.  In 
the  nionaster\-  of  Lerin  spiritual  t|iialities  were  fostered 
above  all  things,  hence  the  mildness  of  its  rule.  This 
influenced  the  manners  and  customs  of  the  inhabitants 
on  the  shore,  for,  while  on  the  otlier  side  of  the  Esterel 
the  people  were  governed  b\'  rough  leudal  lords;  and 
their  amusements  consisted  in  mock  tights  —  the  so  called 
"bravades''.  in  Cannes.  \  allauris  and  Antibes  they 
had  the  "romerages"',  that  is  to  sa\'  dances  and  rural 
sports,  to  enliven  the  "Fetes''.  To  this  da^•  the  "bravades" 
have  survived  at  St.  Tropez,  and  the  "romerages"  at 
X'allauris.  \\  atch  towers  were  erected  all  along  the  coast 
as  a  protection  against  the  Saracens.  Fire  signals  b\' 
night  and  white  tiags  b\'  da\',  on  the  lies  de  Lerins. 
warned  the  dwellers  on  the  coast  of  the  approaching 
enem\'.  Cannes  had  a  fairh'  peaceful  existence,  shielded 
b\'  the  monaster\-.  which  bore  the  brunt  of  the  enemy's 
attacks,  and  onI\'  during  the  wars  of  Francis  I  with 
Charles  \  did  it  first  sustain  severe  losses.  In  1580  the 
black  plague  was  brought  to  Cannes  b\'  a  ship  from  the 
East,  and  it  spread  over  tlie  wliole  of  Provence.  Then 
came  much  trouble  in  the  course  of  time,  as  \\hen,  in 
the  seventeenth  century,  the  lies  de  Lerins  fell  tempor- 
ariU-  into  the  power  of  Spain:  and  again,  in  the  eiglit- 
eenth  centur\-,  when  the  Austrian  and  Piedmontese  troops 
invaded  Provence;  but  jiarticularh'  at  the  time  of  the 
Austrian  \\'ar  of  vSuccession,  during  the  unsuccessful  attacks 
of  Austria  on  Provence.  On  the  other  hand  a  serio-comic 
element  is  not  altogether  wanting  in  the  history  of  Cannes. 


242  CANNES. 

For  the  Archives  of  the  town  contain  an  account  of  a 
wild  animal  that  in  1/85  filled  town  and  country  with 
panic.  Not  a  single  inhabitant  of  the  town  ventured  to 
stir  abroad.  At  last  a  bod^'  of  valiant  men  took  up 
arms  and  succeeded  in  sla^-ing  the  animal  on  the  borders 
of  the  commune.  No  one  had  ever  seen  such  a  creature, 
and  they  did  not  know  what  to  call  it.  A  violent  dispute 
about  the  skin  now  began  between  the  communities  of 
Cannes.  Grasse  and  Mougins,  on  whose  common  boundarv 
the  animal  had  fallen.  A  serious  contiict  threatened,  but 
was  fortunately  averted  by  the  Marquis  de  Caraman. 
General  in  Command  of  Provence,  who  appropriated  the 
skin  himself.  It  was  then  certified  to  be  the  skin  of  a 
hyaena,  but  how  the  animal  had  stra\ed  to  Cannes 
remained  unexplained. 

By  the  end  of  the  eighteenth  century  Cannes  had 
sunk  into  a  quite  unimportant  communit\'.  When  Horace 
Benedict  de  Saussure  visited  it  in  178/  he  found  only 
two  streets,  which  were  inhabited  almost  entirely  b\"  sailors 
and  fishermen.  The  beauty  of  the  spot  struck  him. 
"C'est  un  site  vraiment  delicieux",  he  exclaimed  on  the 
hill  of  St.  Cassien,  as  his  eyes  wandered  over  tlie  blue 
(jolfe,  the  green  islands,  the  luxuriant  valley  of  the 
Siagne,  Grasse  and  the  grey  limestone  Alps.  The  Hotels 
in  Cannes  at  that  time  must  have  been  ver\'  primitive, 
nevertheless  Heinrich  Schubert,  Professor  at  Eriangen,  was 
very  comfortable  in  one  of  these  houses  when  he  came 
to  Cannes  in  the  year  1822.  He  and  "Die  gute  Haus- 
frau"  had  been  walking  for  eight  hours  over  the  Esterel 
mountains  to  Cannes,    and   arrived  there  on    a    hot  after- 


SCIUHIOKT   ON    CANNi:S.  243 

no(.)ii  i,|uitc  tired  out.  .About  this  Schubert  writes:  — 
"Die  ^ule  Ihuistrau  has  ne\er  telt  belter,  or  more  cheerful, 
during  the  whole  of  this  jtjurnew  She  lias  been  more 
comfortable  and  enjo\  ed  lier  meals  more  at  this  little 
inn  at  C'annes  than  am  where  else,  and  the  charges  were 
ver\'  moderate  and  tlieretore  suited  us.  'i'he  little  house 
was  one  of  the  iirst  in  the  row  hv  the  sea-shore.  It  is 
true  there  were  no  marble  steps  leading  to  the  upper 
store\',  which  consisted  almost  entirely  of  the  one  room 
where  we  dined :  but  there  was  a  wooden  staircase  goinsf 
up  Irom  the  outside,  and  it  could  be  mounted  just  as 
quickh'  as  a  stone  one.  The  balconw  where  we  sat. 
outside  this  room,  had  neither  iron  nor  bronze  railings, 
onh'  wooden  ones,  but  the  prospect  from  it  of  the  surging 
sea  beneath  was  just  as  extensive  and  lovelv  as  from  a 
stone  one.  Young  chickens,  hatched  onlv  a  few  da\"S 
ago,  ran  about  with  the  old  hen  in  the  dining-room  and 
on  tlie  balcon\',  picking  up  the  crumbs  of  white  bread 
that  the  housewife  strewed  for  them.  After  par- 
taking of  an  excellent  repast  and  resting  ourselves,  we 
took  up  our  knitting  and  ]5lant  portfolio  and.  bidding 
farewell  to  our  balconv  with  the  loveh'  view  of  tlie  sea 
and  to  our  kindh*  reasonable  hosts,  sallied  forth  under  the 
shady  avenue  ot'  trees  close  to  the  surf  on  the  road  to 
Antibes". 

Cannes  was  indeed  ver\-  different  then  to  what  it 
is  now.  It  owes  the  commencement  of  its  present  pros- 
perity however  to  an  accident.  In  lS.i4  when  the  cliolera 
spread  over  the  whole  of  northern  i'>ur()]H'.  Itah'  isolated 
herself    b\'    means  of   a  cordon    all    along    her     frontiers. 


244  CANNES. 

Travellers  coming  from  France  to  the  Italian  side  of  the 
Riviera  were  compelled  to  sta^'  several  da}s  in  Cannes. 
which  was  free  of  infection,  before  the\-  were  allowed 
to  cross  the  boundarv  at  the  \'ar.  xVmong  these  trav- 
ellers was  Lord  Brougham,  who  had  recently  resigned 
the  office  of  Lord  Chancellor  of  England,  and,  much 
depressed  bv  the  loss  of  his  dearly-loved  daughter,  was 
hurr\-ing  to  Italv.  Cannes,  where  he  was  unwillingly 
detained,  pleased  him  so  much  that  he  decided  to  remain 
there.  He  purchased  some  land  and  built  a  castle  which 
he  called  Eleonore  Louise,  after  his  daughter.  His  example 
was  followed  b^-  a  great  number  of  his  countr^•-men, 
and  English  visitors  of  the  upper  class  gradualh'  moved 
from  Nice  to  Cannes.  The\'  were  followed  hv  the  French 
aristocrac\',  and  Cannes  rapidh'  developed  into  one  of 
the  leading  health  resorts  on  the  Riviera. 

CHAPTER  VFL 

During  the  season  in  Cannes  there  is  such  an  intkix 
of  wealth\-  strangers  that  it  is  not  surprising  to  lind  the 
number  of  fashionable  shops  increasing  each  yeav.  Near 
the  railwa\'  crossing,  in  a  small  and  most  unpretentious 
wooden  cottage,  a  little  shop  A'et  remains  unchanged,  in 
which  a  now  aged  man  offers  articles  of  "Aloe  wood" 
for  sale.  The  material  which  he  works  has  realh" 
nothing  to  do  with  either  Aloe  or  wood,  but  is  the 
tough  ar.d  verv  light  tissue  from  the  dowering  stem  ot 
Agaves.  It  comes  from  the  tiower-scapes  of  Ag-azr 
americana  that  we  see  in  spring  on  the  Riviera,  either 
growing  from  the  midst  of  their   giant  tiesh}'  leaves,    or 


AGAVE. 


245 


alrcach'  brown  and  tlead.  to\\erin<^  like  candelabra  above 
the  withering  plants.  In  a  remarkably  short  space  of 
time  one  of  these  llowcr  stems  will  o-row  from  live  to 
seven  A-ards  in  heiglit,  and  disphu'  its  \ellow  sweet- 
scented  tlowers,  whose  number  ma\-  exceed  four  thousand. 
The  idea  that  an  Agave  must  be  a  liundrcd  A^ears  old 
to  llower  is  onh-  true  in  a  limited  sense.  On  tlie 
Riviera  a  period  of  from  ten  to  fifteen  years  must  elapse 
before  it  is  able  to  do  this.  The  specimens  in  our  con- 
servatories, on  the  contrary,  often  wait  fift^'  \'ears  and 
even  longer  for  this  moment.  There  is  a  plant  closeh- 
allied  to  the  Agave,  the  Fourcroya  lo/ig-aeva,  which 
according  to  the  Mexicans  tlowers  onh'  once  in  four 
hundred  years.  It  grows  in  the  highlands  of  Oaxaca. 
in  Mexico,  and  there  attains  a  height  of  nearh-  sixt\- 
feet  before  it  puts  forth  its  inflorescence.  This  then 
shoots  up  fort^•-llve  fept 
high  and  pro-  •-  •  » 
duces 
more 

than  a  mil- 
lion and  a  half 
blossoms.     The 
Fourcro\-as     in    the    garden 
ol   La  Mortola   furnish  an 
example  of  tliis  wonderful 
luxuriance. 

The  sudden  appearance 
ol  the  intlorescence  of  the 
Agave    and    its    raj)id   deNelopment 


246  AGAVE. 

after  the  plant  had  been  growing  so  very  slowly  in  its  early 
stages,  impressed  Linnaeus  so  much  that  he  gave  it  the 
name  it  now  bears,  which  he  intended  to  mean  "wonderful". 
The  first  Agave  reached  Europe  in  1561  from  South  America, 
and  as  early  as  1583  one  of  these  plants  flowered  at 
Pisa.  It  excited  not  a  little  astonishment  and  was  des- 
cribed by  Caesalpin.  Now  Agaves  in  full  bloom 
are  such  a  common  sight  that  thev  are  hardly  noticed. 
It  is  very  inaccurate  to  call  the  Agave  an  Aloe,  for 
the  true  Aloe  does  not  even  belong  to  the  same  family 
of  plants.  The  Agave,  and  the  Fourcroya,  are  classed 
amongst  the  Amaryllidaceae,  while  the  Aloe  is  placed  in 
the  Liliaceae. 

In  Mexico,  when  the  /Vgave  is  about  to  Hower,  the 
central  shoot  is  often  cut  out  to  be  eaten  as  a  dainty 
or  as  a  vegetable.  Or  these  central  shoots  of  the  Agave 
are  roasted  and  then  allowed  to  ferment  in  skins  in 
order  to  distil  a  very  fiery  spirit  called  ''Mescal'',  which 
is  rather  like  Scotch  Whisky.  The  amount  of  sweet 
tasting  liquid  that  a  vigorous  i\gave  }'ields  if  the  central 
shoot  is  cut  out  just  at  the  moment  when  it  is  ready 
to  put  forth  its  inflorescence  is  remarkable.  It  is  said 
to  be  as  much  as  Ave  litres  daily,  and  that  a  single 
plant  will  yield  about  1100  litres  of  liquid  altogether. 
This  fluid,  after  fermentation,  forms  "Pulque"  the 
national  beverage  of  the  Mexicans,  the  flavour  of  which 
most  foreigners  find  so  nauseating.  The  intoxication 
produced  by  pulque  is  similar  in  many  respects  to  that 
caused  by  opium  smoking,  the  person  under  the  in- 
fluence   of    it   seeking   retirement    in  a  quiet  place.     The 


__  ALOE   WOOW  247 

intoxication     causctl     by      mescal      is     different,      niakin<r 
people   nioslU    ill-tempered. 

The  inner  tissue  of  the  Agave  inflorescence,  which 
is  turned  to  account  in  Cannes,  consists  of  laro-e  thin- 
walled  cells  throufrh  whicli  run  vascular  bundles  that 
look  like  threads  to  the  naked  e\-e.  A  penholder  made 
of  this  tissue  weighs  only  two  grammes,  —  a  qualit^' 
I   very   much   appreciate. 

The    "Aloe  wood"",    which    the  Old  Testament  con- 
stantly   praises    and    mentions    amongst    the    most  costlv 
varieties    of    frankincense,    is    not    in    an\-  way  related  to 
tlie  Agave  nor  to  the  true  Aloe.    It  seems  to  have  been 
obtained  principally  from   Aqiiillaria  A^-a//oc/ni,    a  large 
tree    in  Further  India,    which,   like  our  perfumed  species 
of  Daphne,  belongs  to  the  ThA'melaceae.    The  agreeable 
odour  of  the  wood  is  due  to  tlie    resin  of  which  it  con- 
tains   but    a    small    quantity.     In    order    to    improve  the 
quality    of    frankincense    it    is    extracted    from  the  wood 
fibres  by  tlie  process  of  maceration.    Xaturalh-  this  kind 
of  frankincense    was    never    sold  in   large  c|uantities.   and 
in   ancient    times    it    formed    a  suitable  gift  for  a  prince. 
Thus    --Aloe  wood'"    was   not    lacking    among    the    man^- 
costly    presents    which  Catarina  Cornaro,    the  celebrated 
Queen    of  Cyprus,    received    in    147()     from  Kaitbai,    the 
Sultan  of  Egypt.    \\\  the  temples  of  India  this  incense  is  still 
burnt    for  ceremonial   jnirposes.      Xapoleon  I   was  so  fond 
of    this    perfume,    that    he    ordered    '-Aloe  wood""    to    be 
burnt  in   his  palace. 

The   inhabitants    of    the    western  part  of  Cannes  are 
partly  compensated  for  the  excursions    to    La  Maure  h\ 


248 ■ CANNES. 

the  heights  of  the  Croix-des-Gardes.  The  views  are 
simihir,  but  a  great  deal  of  dust  must  be  swallowed 
before  reaching  them.  The  slopes  of  the  hill,  which  is 
490  feet  high,  are  covered  with  the  oldest  villas  of 
modern  Cannes;  there,  too,  lies  the  Chateau  Eleonore 
Louise,  which  laid  the  foundation  of  the  new  health 
resort.  You  should  not  omit  to  visit  the  garden  of  the 
X'illa  La  Rochefoucauld,  to  which  strangers  are  always 
admitted.  It  is  soon  reached  hv  the  road  to  Frejus. 
The  view  of  the  neighbouring  Esterel  range  between 
the  Palms  and  Pines  of  the  luxuriant  garden,  are  surpris- 
inp-h'  effective. 

I  planned  an  excursion  to  the  Cap  d'Antibes,  and 
rose  at  da\'break  so  as  to  have  as  much  time  as 
possible  before  me.  \Mien  I  went  to  the  window  and 
opened  the  shutters,  alas !  I  found  the  sk^'  overcast. 
The  sun  must  have  just  risen.  I  stood  doubtfully  at  the 
window  wondering  \vhether  the  sun  would  succeed  in 
dispersing  the  clouds.  Blue  rifts  appeared  and  raised 
io^•ful  hopes.  Soon  the\'  disappeared  again  and  the 
depressing  feeling  came  over  me  anew  that  it  might 
remain  thus  sad  and  drear\'  the  live -long  day.  Yet 
once  more  the  clouds  grew  lighter  and  began  to  move 
hither  and  thither  in  heavv  masses  like  an  agitated  sea. 
Suddenly  they  broke  in  several  places,  and  through 
their  gilded  edges  the  clear  sk\-  peeped  fortii.  It  seemed 
almost  as  if  there  were  a  conflagration  in  the  heights 
above,  which  was  sending  down  long  burning  rays 
through  the  openings  in  the  clouds  to  set  earth  and  sea 
aflame.     Now    there    were    bright    patches    on    the    sea; 


H.\r  ri.RIA   AND   SUNLIGHT.  249 

thon  the  lies  tie  Leriiis  on  llie  dark  waves  blushed  in 
the  ros\-  litj^ht.  and  the  summits  ot  tlie  V^sterel  were 
aii^low.  and  Old  L'annes  seemed  ablaze.  (jraduali\-  the 
clouds  thinned,  xieldiuir  to  the  victorious  sun.  then  the\' 
dissolved  into  i^olden  mist  and  vanished,  and  the  whole 
skA-  was   full   of  radiance. 

^^  e  follow  the  road  to  Antibes.  wliicli  is  now  il- 
lumined b\  the  sun.  This  abundance  of  light  ^"laddens 
the  heart,  raises  new  hopes,  and  certainh-  contributes 
much  towards  healing  the  sick  who  sojourn  here.  Such 
is  the  cheering  influence  of  the  sunlight.  It  is  more- 
over a  powerful  antiseptic,  for  it  destroys  the  germs  ot 
those  lower  organisms  which  are  engendered  b\'  putri- 
laction  and  decomposition.  Experiments  have  pro\ed  that 
bacteria  can  be  completeh"  destroyed  b^•  sunlight.  If 
some  of  these  be  placed  in  the  sunlight,  and  others 
kept  in  the  shade,  the  former  will  be  killed  while  the 
latter  will  continue  to  increase.  In  like  manner  intense 
sunlight  disinfects  the  washing  and  clothing  of  sick  people. 
and  it  also  purifies  lakes  and  rivers,  provided  that  the 
water  is  not  so  heavih*  charged  with  impurities  as  to 
prevent  the  raws  of  light  from  penetrating.  The  germs 
also  which  float  in  the  air  are  mosth'  killed  b\-  sunlight. 
\'er^'  true  is  the  Italian  j:)roverb  which  sa\s,  "'Dove  non 
entra  il  sole,  entra  il  medico"'.  Were  this  sa\ing  not  true, 
man^'  southern  countries  would  be  filled  with  un- 
endurable miasmas,  and  infectious  diseases  would  incessanth- 
devastate  them.  How  little  do  the^•  trouble  in  the  South 
about  disinfecting  I  Modern  hvgiene  is  the  child  of  northern 
latitudes,   and  it  is  in  those  countries  where  the   sun  is  so 


250  BACTERIA   AND  SUNLIGHT. 


frequenth'  shrouded  in  mist  that  the  necessity'  for  careful 
attention  to  cleanHness  and  comfort  is  most  urgently  felt. 
While  we  clean   our  rooms  most    carefulh'    and  disinfect 
ever\\vhere,  the  southerner  opens  wide  his  windows  and 
lets  the  sun's  rays  penetrate  throughout  the  house.     For 
this    it    is    necessary-    that    the    sk^'    continue    clear.     The 
germs  of  bacteria  that   are    exposed    to    intense    sunHght 
can  onh-  withstand  its  effect  for  a  short  time.    Eyen  the 
germs    of  Bacillus  aiithracis,    that    dangerous    bacterium 
which  produces  a    fatal    distemper    in    sheep    and    cattle, 
loses  its  power  of  multiphing  in   a  very  few  hours.    An 
English  botanist,    Marshall  \\'ard.  conceived    the    idea  of 
demonstrating    this  effect  of  light    on  bacteria    germs    by 
photograpliA-.     He    spread    gelatine    containing   germs    of 
bacteria  on    a    glass   plate    and    placed    this    in    the    sun 
behind  a  perforated  sheet  of  tin.     After  a  few  hours  he 
brought   the  glass  plate  into  a    dark   warm    room    where 
it  remained  for  some  time.    In  all  the  spots    on  the  glass 
plate    that     were    behind     the     perforations    in     the     tin, 
and  which    consequenth'    the    sunlight    would    affect,    the 
bacteria  had  developed  no   lurther  and  were  killed:   but 
on  the  shaded  parts  the\'  not  onh-  had  not  suffered,  but 
were  increasing  rapidh'  and  marked  the  gelatine  accord- 
ingh'.     Thus  it   was  that  the  pattern   of  the    perforations 
was   distincth'   recognised  on  the  gelatine.    Positive  prints 
can  be   obtained   \i\  means  of  bacteria  even  from  ordinary- 
photographic  negatives,  provided  the  experiment  be  per- 
formed with  particularh'  sensitive  germs.    Purple  bacteria 
from  the  Thames,   when    placed   behind   glass    negatives, 
have    produced     pictures    of    English    landscapes    which 


CLEAR   ATMOSPHERE. 


251 


were  tjiiite   recognisable,   though   not  sharply  defined.  — 
The  wliole  road       to  Antibes  was  now  dazzlingly  bright 


in  \\hich  all  things 
the  sun  is  high  in 
The     shadows    grew 


with    that   glare 
are  steeped  when 
the  heavens, 
shorter    and 
darker  on  the 
chalk\'  -  white 
road ,     the 
half  shad- 
ows    becominsf 
bluer  in   tone. 
The  groups  of  Palms 
in  the  gardens  shone 
like  the  magic 
decorations    in    a 
fair\-  scene.  All  Nature 
was  celebrating  a  sun- 
festival     and     this 
happy  feeling   was 
also  shared  bA'  us. 
There    are    but     few    places 
in   Europe  that   enjo\'  such 
abundance  of  light.  On  this  golden 
coast  the  Mediterranean  ma\' 
boast  itself  the  mirror  of 
The    clear    atmosphere 

bourhood  of  Nice  is  onh-  to  be  equalled 
b\-  that  of  X'alencia  and  Alicante,  ^^'hereas 
in  Paris  the  view  trom  the  I'.iffel  tower  extends,    Laurus nobiUs. 


252  RAINFALL. 


under  the  most  favourable  conditions,  only  a  hundred 
kilometres,  here,  strange  to  sav,  the  jagged  summits 
of  Corsica,  distant  more  than  two  hundred  kilometres, 
may  frequently  be  seen.  For  this  reason  Mont  Gros, 
near  Nice,  was  rightly  chosen  as  the  site  of  an  astrono- 
mical observatory.  In  Nice  there  are  on  an  average 
only  sixt\'- seven  rainy  days  in  the  course  of  the  ^'ear. 
The  rain  does  not  last  long,  but  is  frequently  as  heavy 
as  in  the  tropics.  This  spring,  during  our  live  weeks' 
stay,  from  the  middle  of  March  to  the  latter  half 
of  April,  we  had  only  three  days  of  continuous  rain 
to  record.  In  fact  during  the  whole  time  we  were 
bathed  in  light. 

The  road  led  us  past  Golfe  Jouan  to  Jouan  les  Pins, 
and  now  w'e  followed  the  wude  curve  of  the  baA'  under 
Pine  trees.  Our  gaze  rested  either  on  the  Esterel  mountains 
or  on  the  lies  de  Lerins,  or  lost  itself  on  the  trackless  sea. 
These  views  were  the  same  familiar  ones  that  had  grown 
so  dear,  but  alwa\'s  in  new  settings.  We  reached  the 
Cap  and  walked  into  the  gardens  of  the  Hotel  du  Cap. 
Little  is  altered  here,  the  same  luxuriant  vegetation  and 
the  same  fragrant  scent  of  the  Maquis.  But  some  curious 
buildings  on  the  extreme  point  of  the  tongue  of  land 
appear  strange  to  us.  Can  the  Saracens  again  have 
conquered  the  land  and  settled  on  the  Cap,  for  those 
are  certainly  Moorish  buildings  that  rise  to  view?  A 
Mosque  raises  its  slender  minaret  aloft.  The  point  of 
the  Cap  is  separated  from  the  Hotel  by  a  wall,  which 
fortunately  is  broken  through,  and  nothing  hinders  us 
from  proceeding  further. 


CAP  MARTIN. 


ll  was  not  a  Saraci'ii  but  a  Parisian  who  had  these 
huiidiiii^s  erected.  1  h'  died  bet()re  his  work,  was  coni- 
]")leted,  and  his  wisli  to  be  buried  here  was  not  lullilled 
as  the  French  ( j\~)\-ernnient  j:)rohibited  the  interment  at 
the   Caji. 

So  tliese  oriental  buildini^s  will  in  the  coLU'se  ot  time 
disappear  -  i:)erha]")S  crumble  into  ruins  which  some 
da\"  ma\-  be  pointed  out  as  Saracen  I  Hut  the  fishermen, 
from  whom  the  shore  is  being  filched  awa\'  piece  by 
piece,  are  again  taking  possession  of  the  point  of  the 
Cap.  and  with  undisguised  satisfaction  liave  destro\ed 
the  wall  that  barred  their  wa\'  to  the  rocks,  where  from 
tlieir  childhood  the\-  had  been  accustomed  to  fish.  And 
the  visitor  to  tlie  Cap  d'Antibes  can  agaii^  ramble  un- 
hindered among  these  rugged  rocks  and  listen  to  the 
mvsterious  murmuring  of  the  waves  in  their  cracks  and 
fissures. 

CHAPTER  \^III. 

A  tew  thi\-s  later  we  quitted  Cannes  and  took  up 
our  abode  at  Cap  Martin.  Some  time  ago  an  English 
compan\-  acquired  this  whole  promontor\-  and  built  an 
hotel  here  which  is  one  of  the  most  comfortable  on  the 
Riviera.  It  is  to  be  regretted  that  the  most  beautiful 
spots  on  this  coast  have  been  sacrificed  to  the  speculator, 
but  fortunateh"  one  does  not  feel  this  with  regard  to  Cap 
Martin.  For  the  English  compan\-  have  wiseh'  preserved 
its  original  character,  and  with  much  taste  and  ingenuity 
turned  the  tnie  wood  of  Aleppo  Pines  which  cover  it 
into  a  still   finer  English  park.    The\'  have  spared  every 


254 CAP  MARTIN. 

single  tree  and  left  the  Maquis  on  the  western  shore  in 
its  primitive  condition,  onh-  putting  in  foreign  plants 
discreeth'.  The  Hotel  stands  on  the  high  ground  at  the 
southern  end  of  the  Cap,  but  is  still  enclosed  b^-  the  woods, 
of  which  onlv  as  much  has  been  removed  as  was  abso- 
luteh'  necessary-  for  the  building  of  the  house.  The  land, 
too.  on  the  Cap  is  onh'  sold  under  conditions  which  bind 
the  new  tenants  to  protect  the  woods.  The  newl\-  built 
villas  in  the  woods  are  scarceh-  \isible,  and  it  is  onh-  b\- 
climbing  the  heights  commanding  the  Cap  that  the>' 
can  be  seen.  From  the  I  h')tel  the  paths  that  encircle 
the  whole  Cap  can  be  followed  without  hindrance.  The 
main  road  leading  to  Mentone  runs  along  the  eastern 
shore.  It  is  dustA'  and  on  this  account  to  be  avoided  as 
much  as  possible  b^'  pedestrians.  This  is  easih'  done  b^- 
turning  into  the  roads  that  run  through  the  wood  along 
the  ridge  of  the  Cap.  Rut  the  foot-path  along  the  western 
side  of  the  Cap  is  most  attractive  and  quite  free  from 
dust.  It  skirts  the  shore  through  long  stretches  of  Pine 
trees  and  aromatic  bushes.  This  walk  is  so  charrninpf 
and  affords  such  a  varietA-  of  views,  that  one  never  tires 
of  it.  The  path  leads  up  and  down  over  broken  masses 
of  rock,  always  in  close  proximit\-  to  the  sea.  It  is 
bordered  bv  Myrtle,  Pistachia  (Fig.  p.  349j  and  Rose- 
Vl\7s.x\  (Fig.  p.  37 1).  There,  too,  the  evergreen  Buck- 
thorn {JRhaiiiniis  Alafernus,  Fig.  p.  367),  \\ith  its  dark 
berries,  grows  in  abundance.  Besides  these  there  was 
the  interesting  Cneoriini  Iricocanii,  (Fig.  p.  107),  with 
small  A'ellow  flowers,  which  we  had  seen  growing  in  the 
Maquis  at  Antibes :   and  the  strong-smelling  Rue,  that  has 


C".\r    MARTIN.  255 

alrcach  untolded  its  umbels  oi  yQ\U)\\'\sh-<rrccn  llowers. 
At  t.'\cM-\-  turn  rocks  ot  different  sliapes  jut  fortli  from 
the  sea  in  endless  variet\- :  their  sides  are  bro\\  n  and 
their  tops  powdered,  as  it  were,  with  white.  Pine  trees 
cling'  to  tlieni.  bending  inquisitiveh'  over  the  water,  seeming 
to  watch  the  ever-changing  pla\'  of  the  waves.  Ever\-- 
w  lu-re  the  silver-crested  breakers,  here  deep  blue,  there 
briglit  green,  and  \onder  of  a  violet  tint.  Xow 
tishing  boats  scurr\-  past,  brillianth-  illuminated  b^■  the 
sunshine,  their  oars  appearing  to  dip  into  molten  metal 
which  falls  from  them  in  glittering-  dro]')S.  Extensi\e 
views  of  the  coast  open  out:  Monte  Carlo  sloping  up 
genth'  from  the  sea,  then  Monaco  on  its  steep  rock,  and 
above  them,  as  though  on  guard,  the  giant  "-Tete  de 
Chien".  Close  b}',  clinging  to  the  mountain  side  like  a 
nest,  is  Roccabruna,  surrounded  b\'  (Grange  groves  and 
set  amidst  C^•press  and  Carob  trees. 

The  aspect  and  moods  of  the  Cap  change  hourh- 
In  the  earU-  morning,  when  the  sun  is  still  in  the  east, 
it  is  pleasant  to  stroll  here  in  the  shade  of  the  trees 
and  of  the  steep  banks.  We  wander  up  and  down  the 
rocks,  now  close  to  the  beach,  now  high  above  the  sea, 
then  again  down  to  the  shore  where  the  waves  roll  up 
to  our  feet.  Hut  before  long  we  have  to  change  our 
ground,  tor  the  Cap  does  not  point  due  south  Init 
south-east,  so  that  the  sun's  ra\s  soon  strike  the  western 
slope.  Then  there  is  welcome  shade  on  the  eastern 
shore.  Between  the  dust\-  road  and  the  sea  is  a  rock\- 
strip  overgrown  with  I^incs  where  it  is  possible  to  rest 
free    from    dust.      I  lere    also  the  shore  is  deeply  fissured 


256  FISHING  AT   CAP    MARTIN. 

and  forms  a  varied  foreground  to  the  scene  which  is 
disclosed  to  view  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  ba^^  The 
Pines  bend  over  the  rocks  and  stretch  their  brandies 
towards  the  sea,  thus  encircling  Mentone  and  the  high 
peaks  above  it,  or  La  Mortola,  or  again  Bordighera 
with  their  green  foliage.  We  used  to  sit  for  hours  on 
these  rocks,  book  in  hand,  often  looking  up  from  its 
pages  awav  over  the  blue  water.  vSometimes  the  tisher- 
men  attracted  our  attention :  the\'  were  watching  for 
lish  near  by.  One  of  them  sat  above  the  rocks  on  a 
stand  made  of  three  stakes  bound  together,  and  gazed 
intently  into  the  water;  others  waited  in  a  boat  read\' 
to  draw  in  the  nets  at  a  given  signal.  These  were 
fastened  to  an  empty  boat  placed  cross -ways  thus 
forming  a  triangle  that  was  open  on  one  side.  As  soon 
as  the  fisherman  on  the  look  out  above  perceived  that 
the  fish  had  entered  the  triangle,  he  pulled  a  rope  so 
that  the  net  closed  across  the  open  end.  The  boat  then 
sped  swiftly  to  the  shore  and  cut  off  all  means  of 
retreat  for  the  fish ;  the  nets  were  then  drawn  in, 
capturing  a  few  small  fishes.  Sometimes  onh'  one 
struggling  creature  was  brought  to  land.  The  patience 
of  these  men  astonished  us.  They  would  sit  for  hours 
in  the  boat  without  stirring.  The  live -long  day  the 
watcher  w^ould  remain  perched  on  his  p\ramid  of  stakes, 
and  apparently  the  time  did  not  hang  heavy  on  his 
hands.  What  a  contrast  to  people  like  ourselves,  who 
live  in  a  whirl  of  continual  activity  and  excitement, 
leaving  no  moment  unemployed,  and  at  last  compelled 
to    come    hither   to  rest  our  jaded  nerves!     The  man  on 


CAP  MxVRTlN. 


257 


his  p^ 
remiiK 
very     much 

of   a    sea    eagle  that   I  once  saw- 
perched  on   a  soHtar\'  crag  h\  the 
shore  at  Antibes.     He,    too,    sat 
long    and    patienth'    gazing    into 
the    water,    without    even    moving    his 
head,  then  suddenh-  swooped  down  like 
an    arrow    into    the    sea    and    soared    up 
again  to  the  clouds  with  a    fish    in    his 
talons. 

The    hotel    at    Cap    Martin    towers 
above   the  trees    of   the    wood.     To   the 
south    we    look    out    over   the    open    sea : 
to  the  north,  above  the  arched  domes  of 
the    wood,    we    command    a    vie\\'  of   the 
whole  of  the  mountain  chain  that  shelters 
this  strip  of  coast.  These  might\-  mountains 
are  ranged  in  line  from  Mt.  Agel  in  the  west 
to    the    Berceau     in     the    east.       l^he    loftiest     limestone 
giants    are    in    the    middle,    piercing    the    blue  sk\-  with 


258 SUNSET  AT  CAP  MARTIN. 

their  sharp  crests.  We  gazed  at  them  every  evening 
when  the  sinking  sun  tinged  their  summits  with 
pink,  till  peak  after  peak  gradually  faded.  And 
often  towards  evening  we  would  descend  to  the  eastern 
shore  to  see  the  coast  lighted  up.  When  Mentone 
is  already  buried  in  deep  shadow  Old  Bordighera 
is  still  artame  with  purple  light  —  a  favourite  of  the 
sun  on  this  golden  coast  it  receives  his  last  greeting  at 
eventide. 

After  night-fall  we  would  again  go  down  to  the 
shore  to  see  the  lights  of  Mentone  and  Monte  Carlo. 
Monte  Carlo,  in  particular,  looks  quite  fairv-like; 
thousands  of  lights  are  crowded  together  round  the 
foot  of  the  mountain  which  stands  out  darkh-  against 
the  starr^'  skv.  I  used  often  to  contemplate  this  view 
and  feel  as  if  I  had  seen  it  before  in  the  past.  But 
where  and  when?  I  could  not  remember.  Then  sud- 
denh'  I  saw  it  again  vividh'  before  me  —  the  old 
picture  just  as  I  had  looked  on  it  with  childish  eyes. 
It  was  a  coloured  picture  of  Naples  in  a  little  panorama 
given  me  once  on  Christmas  Eve.  When  held  against  a 
light,  innumerable  little  flames  lit  up  Naples  and  excited 
my  childish  fancy ;  these  were  produced  by  pinpricks 
perforating  the  picture.  As  in  that  view  Camaldoli 
commands  Naples  so  does  the  Tete  de  Chien  tower 
above  Monte  Carlo :  and  as  the  lights  shone  from  Posi- 
lipo,  so  did  they  also  here  on  the  rocks  of  Monaco. 
How  wonderfully  strong  these  childish  impressions  are ! 
What  has  not  this  harried  brain  had  to  take  in  since 
then !     And  yet  the  old  impression  was  not  effaced,  but 


(MJ\^i:S   AT  CAP   MARTIN. 259 

onl\  donnant.  and  revived  ai^ain  when  a  touch  Ironi 
outside   iirouolit   it   back  to   consciousness. 

The  spot  where  Cap  Martin  joins  the  coast  is 
covered  with  beautiful  old  Olive  trees.  There  they 
stand  with  tlieir  fantastically  gnarled  stems,  of  which 
no  two  are  alike.  On  this  coast  the  farther  vou  get 
from  the  ICsterel  the  larger  and  finer  they  become. 
What  a  difference  between  the  miserable  trees  at  the 
moutli  of  the  Rhone  and  these  giants  raising  their 
crowns  proudh'  aloft  I  \\'e  must  see  them  thus  to  value 
and  love  them ;  and  the  abundance  of  light  in  this 
sunn\-  district  is  also  necessarA'  that  their  foliage  may 
not  appear  grey  and  sad  but  silver\'  and  bright.  This 
is  wh^■  the  Olive  grove  forms  so  characteristic  an 
element  in  this  landscape.  The  leaves  of  the  tree  are 
not  large,  and  as  its  foliage  never  grows  dense  a  soft 
twilight  of  peculiar  charm  reigns  in  the  Olive  groves. 
Ever\-  breatli  of  wind  stirs  their  leaves,  and  the 
lights  tremble  on  the  trees  and  flicker  like  fireflies  over 
the  ground,   animating   the  solitude. 

In  spite  of  its  apparenth'  exposed  situation  Cap  Martin 
is  well  sheltered  froni  tiie  Mistral  and  from  the  north 
wind  and  lies  open  onh-  to  the  south  and  east. 
The  sevent\-  of  last  winter  has  proved  that  the  high 
mountains  to  the  north  and  west  of  the  Cap  form  a  most 
effective  barrier  against  the  cold.  Scarcely-  any  snow 
Idv  on  the  Cap  when  Mentone  was  covered,  and  neither 
the  Bougainvillias  nor  the  Heliotropes  at  the  Hotel  suffered. 
Plants  are  the  surest  indicators  of  climate.  In  most  places 
on  the  Riviera  last  winter   the  Bougainvillias  and  Hclio- 

11 


260  LEMON  GROVES  AT  MENTONE. 

tropes  were  frozen,  or  lost  their  foliage.  The  size  of  the 
Bush  Spurges  { Euphorbia  dciidroides)  growing  all  over 
the  western  slope  of  Cap  Martin  proves  how  favourable 
are  the  climatic  conditions.  Only  in  the  south  of  Sardinia 
can  larger  specimens  be  found.  The  luxuriant  Lemon 
groves  close  b^'  in  Mentone  bear  witness  to  the  mildness 
of  the  climate  in  this  region.  The  Lemon  cannot  endure 
a  temperature  lower  than  —  5°  C.  Its  fruits  freeze  at 
—  3"  C.  Imagine  the  agitation  of  the  people  last  winter 
when  the  thermometer  repeatedh'  sank  below  zero.  The 
owner  of  a  large  Lemon  plantation  told  me  that  in  the 
cold  nights  he  had  stood  for  hours  watching  the  thermo- 
meter, in  great  anxiety  lest  the  mercur\'  should  fall  still 
lower.  Half  a  degree  more  and  the  whole  ^'ear"s  crop 
would  be  lost;  indeed  in  man\'  places  in  Mentone  last 
winter  the  lemons  were  frozen  but  fortunately  not  the  trees. 
This  occurred  chietI^'  at  the  entrances  to  the  valleys  where 
there  is  insufficient  shelter  from  the  north.  Lemon  trees 
should  never  be  planted  in  such  spots:  but  after  many 
mild  winters  in  succession  people  become  forgetful  and 
take  no  precautions.  As  a  rule  the  cold  north  winds  do 
not  touch  the  coast,  but  reach  the  sea  a  few  kilometres 
from  it,  and  it  often  happens  that  the  sea  out  there  is 
quite  storm^'  while  perfect  calm  reigns  on  the  coast.  At 
Mentone  the  Orange  trees,  too,  have  stood  this  winter 
very  well.  With  a  cloudy  sky  the  fruit  will  stand  —  4"  C 
and  the  cold  must  remain  at  —  6°  C  for  some  time  to 
kill  the  tree.  This  is  the  reason  why  Orange  trees,  but 
not  Lemons,  are  to  be  seen  at  Cannes:  even  at  Golfe 
Jouan  the  foliage  of  the  former  was  partly  frozen.    The 


SIRoeXX).  261 

Carob.  loo.  is  exceedingly  sensitive  to  a  low  temperature 
as  is  pro\ed  by  its  liner  de\elopnient  in  a  warmer  climate. 
\o  larger  and  more  luxuriant  specimens  can  be  found 
anywhere  on  the  Riviera  than  on  the  stretch  of  coast 
between   Mllefranche  and  San  Remo. 

To  strangers  it  appears  remarkable  when,  towards 
spring,  the  usually  hot  and  dry  vSirocco  on  the  Ponente 
is  accompanied  by  snow.  This  seldom  happens  unless 
the  high  mountains  of  Corsica  are  heavih-  laden  with 
snow.  It  is  not.  however,  real  snow  that  falls  then  but 
sleet,  which   is  here  called   "neige  de  Corse". 

Scarcely  an\-  deciduous  trees  are  to  be  seen  along 
the  tract  of  land  from  X'illefranche  to  San  Remo.  We 
are  therefore  less  forcibly  reminded  of  winter  here  than 
fiu-ther  south  —  even  at  Naples.  There  the  Fig  and 
\'ine  predominate  and  Posilipo  in  March  appeared  to  us 
almost  barer  than  the  Rhine  valley  which  we  had  recentlv 
left.  The  nights  were  bright  with  moonlight  now,  and 
the  mountains  shone  with  a  magic  glamour:  the^•  formed 
a  grand  amphitheatre,  and  their  serrated  summits  showed 
like  fine  lace-work  against  the  sky,  while  deep  down 
below  twinkled  the   lights  of  Mentone. 

This  full  moon  was  to  usher  in  Easter.  In  the  evening 
we  went  down  to  the  shore  to  watch  it  rise.  All  was  dark 
on  the  rocks  and  sea,  and  solitude  and  silence  reigned 
supreme.  The  wide  sea  la\-  slumbering  before  us.  Above 
us  stretched  the  vast  dome  of  heaven,  almost  black,  but 
sprinkled  with  untold  stars  that  were  reflected  from  the 
surface  of  the  deep  in  silvery  streaks.  Xature  seemed 
in  a  state  of  tension,  as  though   awaiting  an  event  about 

11* 


262  MOONRISE. 


to  happen;  it  was  so  still  and  solemn  ever\'where.  not 
even  a  blade  of  grass  trembled.  The  Pines  hung'  over 
the  waters  as  if  listening  for  some  distant  sound.  The  balm\- 
fragrance  of  the  Maquis  spread  softh'  to  the  sea.  offering 
sweet  incense.  It  ma^■  have  been  that  our  souls  onh' 
were  full  of  expectation  and  that  we  imbued  the  whole 
wide  world  with  this  feeling. 

Suddenlv  a  red  streak  rose  in  the  east  above  the 
water.  It  increased  in  breadth  and  soon  cast  the  first 
bright  beam  over  the  black  tlood  as  if  to  caress  it.  The 
waters  seemed  to  thrill  under  this  rav  and  then  rocked 
it  softlv  on  their  broad  bosom.  At  last  the  moon  emerged 
entirelv  from  the  sea;  her  countenance  was  flushed  like 
one  refreshed  from  sleep.  Distorted  at  first  and  some- 
what strange,  her  disc  soon  became  round  and  silverv 
and  she  shed  her  full  beams  over  the  wavelets  of  the  sea. 
The  stars  paled  as  she  rose  higher;  onh"  the  largest  of 
them  could  still  look  her  in  the  face,  the  others  were  lost 
in  the  depths  of  the  heavens.  Where  the  wavelets  lapped 
the  rocks  of  the  strand  it  sparkled  and  glittered  as  if 
all  the  m\riad  stars  that  had  disappeared  from  the  heavens 
had  cast  themselves  into  the  deep.  A  broad  river  of  silver 
flowed  from  the  shore  to  the  distant  horizon,  broken  here 
and  there  bv  smooth  streaks  which  changed  colours  like 
an  opal.  Duskv  barques  passing  b^'  dipped  into  this 
stream  of  moonlight  —  dark  silhouettes  on  a  silver  ground. 
The  moon  rose  higher  and  higher  above  the  water  and 
continued  her  triumphant  course  in  a  wide  curve  through 
the  skv.  Her  light  soon  began  to  penetrate  the  deepest 
recesses  of  the  shore  and  to  illuminate  the  fissured  rocks 


CAP  MARTIN. 


263 


capped    waves  of  a 

stormy  sea  had  been 

turned  to  stone,  or  J^M     like 

Alpine  glacier  with  Jpy       its  crevasses; 

or     \onder    again,  \f      out     of 


small  rocky  grottoes,    the    ima- 
gination would  conjure  up  an  Arabian 
burial    place,    and    there,    linalh-. 
a     hand      of     pilgrims     in     white 
garments,     wandering     from     the 
wood\'  heights  above  towards    the 
sea.      All    the    ba^■s    are    scintillating 
with     lights,     whose     reflections     float 
on     the      surface     or     plunge     beneath 
the    deep,    intermingling    or    again   sepi 
continuous  pla\'. 

During  Easter -tide  there  was  a  storm  from 
the    north.       It    flung    itself    v/ith    unusual    forci' 

against    the    rock\     ijiants   that    shelter  Mentone.    '    i 

■       ■  [ 

endeavouring  to  overcome  their  resistance.  Then  a    \J 

mighty    struggle    arose    between    these    Titans    and    the 

unlettered     elements.       The     winds    hissed    and    howled 

and    we    saw    rougli    winter    raging    overhead    while    we 


264  CAP  MARTIN. 


were  still  in  the  midst  of  gentle  spring.  The  north 
wind  flung  snow  at  the  heads  of  the  rocky  giants 
and  at  times  they  almost  seemed  to  be  giving  way, 
A  cold  current  of  air  passed  over  the  Cap.  The  Aleppo 
Pines  shook  their  heads  gravelv  and  the  waves  of  the 
sea  with  foaming  manes  fled  terrified  from  the  land. 
Long  into  the  night  the  headland  heaved  and  trembled. 
Then  all  was  still.  Soon  the  stars  shone  fortli  and  the 
next  morning  the  giant  peaks  above  Mentone,  now  clothed 
in  snow  and  radiant  in  the  golden  sunshine,  proudly 
raised  their  rocky  heads  conscious  of  victory. 

But  unfortunately  this  sunshine  was  not  to  last;  the 
balance  of  the  atmosphere  was  disturbed.  An  east  wind 
soon  set  in  with  bad  weather.  This  made  it  easier 
for  us  to  leave  the  Riviera.  Heavy  rain-drops  moistened 
the  parched  earth,  and  we  left  under  the  fond  delusion 
that  this  sky,  so  dear  to  us,  was  weeping  tears  at  our 
departure. 


FOl  KTH  JOURNEY. 


CHAPTER  I. 

INature  had  decked  herself  with 
greater  hixuriance  than  usual  on 
the  Riviera  this  spring.  From  a 
distance  the  gardens  looked  like 
gigantic  posies,  and  man^' 
of  the  houses  were  com- 
pleteh'  hidden  under  masses  of 
Bougainvillia,  Heliotrope  and 
Roses.  We  drove  from 
\'entimiglia  to  Mentone:  it  was  like  passing  under 
triumphal  arches,  and  as  if  the  roads  had  been  decorated 
with  garlands  of  llowers  in  our  honour.  Roses  of  all 
colours  covered  the  hedges,  clambering  to  the  tops  of 
the  trees  to  unfold  in  fuller  splendour  and  hanging  down 


266  MENTONE. 


in  wavy  festoons  which  were  stirred  by  every  breath  of 
air.  Yet  I  had  never  before  felt  so  sad  in  the  midst  of 
such  a  profusion  of  gcty  flowers,  and  when  we  reached  the 
Pont  St.  Louis  and  saw  the  fair\'-Hke  picture  of  Mentone 
outlined  against  the  blue  sky,  my  eyes  turned  to  the 
ruined  Castle  of  the  Grimaldis  above  the  town,  —  the 
cemetery,  where  under  gav  Roses  the  dead  are  at  rest. 
I  was  accompanying  an  invalid,  who  was  dangerously 
ill,  to  Mentone.  and  looked  forward  to  the  near  future 
with  apprehension  and  sorrow.  Therefore  I  sought  to 
distract  my  thoughts  from  the  sad  train  which  they  were 
apt  to  follow,  by  occupying  myself  as  much  as  possible 
with  scientific  work.  The  sublime  scenes  by  which  I 
was  surrounded  had  a  soothing  effect  on  me  as  has 
always  been  the  case.  In  contemplating  the  trackless 
sea  and  the  sk\'-capped  mountains  a  ra\'  of  the  bright 
Riviera  sunshine  would  now  and  then,  for  a  few  moments, 
penetrate  to  m^'  inmost  heart. 

The  Maquis  has  in  a  great  measure  disappeared 
from  Mentone,  but  it  is  still  to  be  found  in  limited  patches, 
nor  need  we  go  far  in  order  to  reach  it.  It  is  best 
represented  on  the  ridge  which  is  crowned  b\'  the  old 
convent  of  the  Annonciade.  But  the  view  from  this  spot 
does  not  attract  me:  I  prefer  the  ridge  on  which  pictur- 
esque old  Castellar  rises.  Leaving  the  main  street  of 
Mentone  near  the  Place  Xationale  we  turn  into  the  Rue 
de  Castellar,  cross  the  railway  b\'  a  bridge  and  begin 
the  steep  ascent.  The  first  plant  we  notice  here,  as 
elsewhere,  is  the  hone\'- scented  Alysszini  niaritiiuuin 
growing  on  the  walls,    L^nassumingly  it  unfolds  its  thick 


\\'ALK   TO   CAvSTELLAR. 267 

clusters  ot"  llowers  all  through  the  winter.  The  \ell()\v 
anthers  protrude  troni  the  little  white  blossoms,  which 
have  tour  crossed  petals.  At  tu'st  the\'  are  seen  against 
a  bright  green  ground,  but  this,  as  well  as  the  stamens, 
becomes  brownish  red  later  so  that  the  older  flowers 
show  a  dark  centre.  Hie  path  continues  over  bare  rocks, 
but  soon  we  are  surrounded  hv  Lavender  (Fig.  p.  257), 
Cisius  (Fig.  p.  8.V),  Tree  Heath  (Fig.  p.  175),  Rhaiunus 
(Fig.  p.  367),  c\nd  Phillxrea  (Fig.  p.  343),  and  before  long 
come  across  one  or  other  of  those  beautiful  orchids  in 
which  the  countr\'  round  Mentone  is  so  rich.  Here  also 
is  a  species  of  Spurge-Laurel,  Daphne  Gnidiiini  (Fig. 
p.  163).  a  bright  green  bush,  striking  on  account  of  its 
almost  vertical  branches  which  are  covered  the  whole  of 
their  length  with  erect  linear  leaves.  In  spring  this  busli 
is  onh'  seen  in  leaf,  for  the  sweet-scented  flowers  do  not 
appear  till  summer.  The  elegant  Selaginella  denticidata 
clings  to  the  dark  ground  on  the  banks  of  the  roads. 
We  grow  this  little  bright  green  plant  in  our  conserva- 
tories at  home  to  cover  rock-work  or  le\'el  spots,  as 
with  a  green  sward.  It  is  a  cr\-ptogam,  the  spores  of 
which  are  enclosed  in  cases  borne  on  spicate  shoots  which 
grow  in  the  axils   of  the   scale-like  leaves. 

The  path  soon  leads  into  a  Pine  wood,  then  through 
an  Olive  grove,  continualh-  revealing  new  aspects  of  that 
noble  mountain  panorama  which  makes  Mentone  one  of 
the  most  glorious  spots  on  the  Riviera.  The  visitor  to 
Mentone  should  begin  his  rambles  with  this  excursion; 
it  will  introduce  him  at  once  to  the  full  splendour  of  this 
landscape. 


268  GORBIO   VALLEY. 


I  never  fail  to  walk  up  the  valle^'  of  Gorbio  as  far 
as  the  western  ridge  whence  the  descent  can  be  made 
to  Roccabruna.  Half  way  to  Gorbio  a  road  branches  off 
leading  out  of  the  valley  up  to  the  new  Sanatorium  for 
Consumptives  which  lies  in  a  ver^•  sheltered  situation  on 
a  wooded  slope  825  feet  high.  The  great  white  building 
is  conspicuous  from  a  distance.  It  was  only  finished  in 
1900  and  every  care  was  taken  to  fit  it  up  with  all  the 
latest  modern  hygienic  appliances.  May  it  be  successful 
in  prolonging  the  lives  of  nian\'  and  perhaps  in  com- 
pletely curing  some !  The  shattered  cross  that  used  to 
stand  on  the  slope  above  Gorbio  has  been  replaced  b\' 
a  stone  one,  the  civilisation  of  the  coast  reaching  even 
to  these  heights.  L^nfortunateh-  one  can  no  longer  enjo^' 
the  peaceful  quiet  and  the  glorious  views  here  without 
being  disturbed  by  shooting  which  makes  the  mountains 
re-echo.  If  you  walk  on  farther  you  ma^'  be  suddenly 
stopped  by  warning  cries,  and  have  to  wait  until  the 
road  is  declared  clear  again.  A  shooting  range  has  been 
made  up  here  on  the  ridge  for  the  C/iassenrs  Alpi'ns 
who  are  garrisoned  at  Cap  Martin,  and  it  bars  the  way. 
Fortunately  target  practice  does  not  take  place  every 
day  so  that  one  can  frequently  enjoy,  unmolested,  the 
endless  views  of  the  coast  from  the  ridge,  and  yield  to 
the  powerful  impressions  which  they  create.  However 
often  we  may  look  on  this  scene  it  ever  surprises  and 
delights  us  anew ;  for  it  is  of  surpassing  beauty  and  too 
vast  for  the  memory  to  retain  it  all.  But  we  are  always 
fascinated  by  that  mighty  pointed  rock  that  rises  so 
majestically  from  the  midst  of  its  companions  near  Mentone. 


THE  FIG-TREE. 269 

and  tliat  bears  on  its  steep  summit  tlie  villa<ice  ot"  St. 
Ag'nese :  tor  a  wilder,  more  romantic  and  tantastic  picture 
could   hardh'   be  seen   an\\\here. 

ClIAPll^R    II. 

Recent  ]:)ublications  containintr  new  discoveries  and 
facts  about  tlie  singular  liabit  of  tlie  Fiir-tree  inchiced 
me  to  turn  m\-  attention  to  it  more  closeh'.  It  was  just 
sprouting,  and  bore  on  its  twigs  the  ^•oung  fruits  which 
had  been  on  the  tree  all  winter. 

The  cultivation  of  the  Fig-tree  dates  so  far  back 
that  in  this  respect  it  ma\'  rank  with  the  Olive  and  the 
\'ine. 

In  the  poetical  and  metaphorical  language  of  the 
ancients  the  Fig-tree  was  called  the  "brother  of  the 
\'ine".  Formerly  Attica  boasted  that,  next  to  Sik^•on, 
she  produced  the  best  tigs.  In  Greece  wine  and  tigs 
were  common  necessaries  of  life  for  both  poor  and  rich, 
and  an  Attic  idler  would  be  quite  content  to  loiter  through 
the  dixv.  h'ing  in  the  sun  or  shade  according  to  the 
season  of  the  vear,  if  he  had  a  few  dried  tigs.  Jucus 
J^uiin'iialis,  the  tree  under  which  Romulus  and  Remus 
were  suckled  bv  the  she-wolf,  shows  how  ancient  was  the 
tradition  of  the  Fig-tree  on  Italian  soil,  .\ccording  to 
Count  zu  Solms-Laubach's  researches,  the  Italian  Fig-tree 
was  not  introduced  from  Greece,  nor  can  its  cultivation 
in  Greece  and  Rome  have  had  the  same  origfin.  Palae- 
ontological  discoveries  prove  tliat  Kicks  Carira,  the 
primitive  plant  from  which  the  cultivated  species  are 
derived,    was    wideh'    spread    in    the    Quaternar\-    epoch 


270  CAPRIFIG. 


over  the  western  part  of  the  Mediterranean  region.  It 
also  seems  probable  that  this  plant  migrated  from  the 
East  across  the  Mediterranean.  But  this  happened  in 
prehistoric    times    before  it    had    begun   to  be  cultivated. 

The  earliest  description  of  the  Fig-tree  mentions 
two  distinct  varieties :  the  one  \'ielding  edible  figs,  the 
other  unpalatable  fruits.  Even  in  ancient  times  the  tree 
with  the  uneatable  fruits  was  called  "Caprificus",  which 
means  Goat-fig  or  Buck-fig;  and  the  singular  influence 
which  the  Caprifig  exerts  over  the  ripening  of  the  edible 
figs  was  alreadv  known.  Pliny  writes:  —  "The^■  call  the 
wild  Fig-tree  Caprificus :  its  fruits  never  ripen,  but  it 
imparts  to  other  fruits  that  which  it  itself  lacks:  for 
Nature  distributes  the  creative  powers  at  her  discretion, 
and  she  is  able  to  engender  new  forms  of  life  even  out 
of  corruption  itself.  Thus  the  wild  Fig-tree  produces 
flies  which  leave  the  deca\'ing  fruits  of  the  maternal 
tree,  as  these  can  afford  them  no  more  nourishment. 
These  flies  then  attack  the  cultivated  tree,  bite  open  its 
fruits  greedih'  and  force  their  waA'  into  their  interior, 
thus  admitting  as  much  warmth  and  sunlight  into  the 
figs  as  is  necessary-  to  ripen  them". 

Herodotus  appears  also  to  have  known  of  this  "capri- 
fication".  Aristotle  described  it  fulh'.  and  \et  onlv 
recent  investigations  have  been  able  to  make  clear  his 
meaning.  Indeed,  the  true  connection  of  the  Caprifig 
with  the  edible  iigs  has  onh'  quite  lately  been  discovered. 

Even  the  northerner  is  familiar  with  the  aspect  of 
the  Fig-tree,  for  we  often  grow  it  in  tubs,  if  not  in  the 
open  ground.    Thus  centuries  ago  —  in    1561    —  Conrad 


THK  fk;. 


271 


Gesnor,    in    his    '"Ilorii    (iernia- 
niae",      ciuinierated      the      I''i< 
among    tlic    plants    culti\atccl 
in  Gernian\-,   and  added  that 
in    the    ijarden    at    Strassbur<j 
it    bore    ripe    figs    in 
its  second  \car. 

Figs  are  com- 
monh-  supposed  to  be 
single  fruits  and  tlie 
grains  inside  them  seeds.  But 
as  a  matter  of  fact  the  fig  is  a  singular  y 
and  very  complicated  structure.  This  had 
been  noticed  by  Albertus  Magnus,  for  he  remarked 
tliat  the  Fig-tree  produced  figs  without  lowering.  The 
lig  is  really  an  infructescence,  while  the  "seeds"  represent 
the  true  fruits.  The  tasty  pulp  of  tlie  lig  consists  of 
the  succulent  receptacle  on  which  tlie  fruits  grow.  The 
%  is  therefore  a  curiously  adapted  inflorescence,  which, 
instead  of  displaying  its  tlowers  on  twigs,   develops  into 

)ranched    structure    closed 
ts    apex    like    an    urn  and 
producing    Howers    on 
its    inner    surface.    — 
The  Capriiig  generalh- 
bears     tliree    crops     of 
fruit  a  year,    the  edible 
Fig  onlv  two.    This  cir- 
cumstance is  also  recorded 
b\'    the    ancients.      The 


FIG-WASP. 


fruits  of  the  Caprifig  produced  in  October  generally  ripen 
in  April.  Then  the  second  crop  begins,  and  ends  in  June  or 
July;  then  the  third  which  lasts  all  through  the  summer.  All 
these  Caprifigs  bear  carpellary  flowers  in  their  inner  cavity; 
but  these  are  singularly   modified,    for  they  possess  only 
undeveloped    carpels   which    are    not    adapted    either    for 
pollination    or   fructification,     but    for    forming    galls.     In 
most  Caprifigs  there  are,  at  the  upper  end  of  the  cavitv 
close  imder  the  aperture,  normal  pollen-forming  staminate 
flowers.     These  are  never  missing    in  those  fruits    which 
ripen  in  June  and  July,  and  it  is  these  which  are  generally 
called  "Profichi"  in  Italy.     But    all    three    crops    of  fruit 
are  uneatable,  and,  even  when  ripe,  are  milky  tough  and 
contain  no  sugar.    They  are  inhabited  by  a  kind  of  wasp, 
Blastophaga   grossorum.     These    get    into    the    Caprifig 
through  the    aperture,    seek  out   the  imperfect  carpellary 
flowers,  and  lay  an  ^^'g  in  each.    A  white  larva  is  hatched 
from  the  ^gg,  while  the  carpel  itself  swells  up  into  a  gall. 
In  this  gall  the  larva  pupates    and   then  the   fully   deve- 
loped wasp  bites  a   hole  in  the  gall  and    sets  itself  free. 
The  males  come  out  first,  and  the  females,  when  fertilised, 
make  their  way  to  the  orifice  to   leave    the  fig.     At  the 
same  time  the    staminate  flowers    shed    their   pollen    and 
the  wasps  are  dusted  with  it  as  they  push   through.     It 
occasionally  happens  that  a  Caprifig  will  produce  normal 
carpellary  flowers  which  bear  fertile  seeds.    But  this  is  not 
the  true  function  of  the  Caprifig,  whose  object  is  to  provide 
accomodation    and    maintenance    for    the    Blastophagae. 
The  normal  carpellary  flowers  are  produced  by  the  true 
Fig-tree,   the    one    that   bears    the    edible    figs.     Most  of 


POLLINATION   OL   FIG.  273 

tlu'  \ai"'u'lics  ot  Fii*-  at  prt'seiU  uiidcr  cultixalion  in  Ital\' 
produce  perfect  carpellar\-  llowers  onh-  in  the  suninier 
crop,  tor  in  tlie  winter  crop  tliesc  are  arrested.  All  these 
\arieties  of  Fii^^  no  longer  recjiiire  i")ollination.  and  this 
explains  their  habit.  I^ut  wliere,  on  the  contrary,  fertil- 
isation is  indispensible,  as  is  the  case  with  the  Sm\rna 
Fig,  the  carpellar\-  llowers  are  produced  in  all  crops 
read^•  for  pollination.  This,  however,  can  onlv  be  per- 
formed hv  the  Blastophagae  which,  laden  with  pollen 
from  the  Caprilig,  creep  into  the  cavit^'  of  the  iig  on  tlie 
cultivated  tree  and  dust  the  stigmas  of  the  carpellar^- 
flowers.  Tlie  wasp  itself  derives  no  benefit  from  this 
service  as  it  cannot  pierce  the  ovar^•  of  a  normal  car- 
pellar^'  tlower  with  its  ovipositor.  It  tinalh'  lavs  an  egg 
between  the  carpellar\'  llowers,  but  this  comes  to  nothing. 
Thus  the  instinct  of  the  wasp  has  been  deceived  from 
time  immemorial.  The  close  resemblance  of  the  car- 
pellar\'  fig  to  the  Caprifig  has  misled  them.  Moreover 
the  cultivated  Fig-tree  in  some  measure  treats  the 
deluded  wasps  genlh'  and  permits  most  of  tliem  to 
escape.  Some  tropical  b  igs  act  differenth',  for  the  wasps 
that  have  forced  their  wdv  into  their  carpellar\-  ligs  have 
to  lose  their  li\'es. 

It  ma\-  be  asked,  how  is  it  possible  for  such  a 
contrivance  to  continue  in  Xature?  The  answer  is 
easih'  given.  W  ithout  the  sacrifice  of  tliese  wasps, 
which  unwiltingh  perform  tlie  necessar\'  pollination  of 
the  carpellar\'  llowers,  this  species  of  wasp  would 
become  extinct,  for  its  ver\-  existence  is  bound  up 
with    that    of    the    tree.      Failing  pollination,    which    nor- 


274 THE  FIG. __^ 

mally  results  in  the  formation  of  seeds  necessary  for 
the  preservation  of  the  species,  this  Fig  would  have  to 
disappear.  Thus  a  certain  number  of  Blastophag-ae  are 
constantly  sacrificed  for  the  advantage  of  the  whole 
species  —  one  of  the  many  instances  showing  how  little 
regard  Nature  has  for  the  life  of  the  individual.  The 
duration  of  its  existence  is  subordinate  to  the  common 
interest  of  the  species. 

In  plants  long  cultivated  the  continued  interference 
of  man  has  not  unfrequenth'  displaced  the  original  con- 
trivances that  served  for  the  preservation  of  the  species. 
This  is  so  with  several  varieties  of  our  Fig-trees.  Man 
has  in  these  cases  undertaken  the  propagation  of  these 
plants  which  are  useful  to  him ;  he  maintains  them  b\' 
grafting  and  cuttings  so  that  the  formation  of  seeds 
has  become  altogether  superfluous.  This  is  the  reason 
why  most  of  the  varieties  of  Fig  cultivated  in  Italy, 
and  also  on  the  I'^rench  Riviera,  no  longer  require 
caprification.  Their  infructescence  ripens  without  pollin- 
ation and  consequently  they  produce  no  germinating 
seeds.  The  Greek  and  Turkish  fig,  and  especially  those 
of  Smyrna,  are  quite  different  in  habit.  These  are 
pollinated  by  Blastophagae  and  their  fruits  contain 
seeds  from  which  new  plants  can  be  raised.  It  is  not 
without  good  reason,  therefore,  that  in  Asia  Minor 
Caprifigs  are  hung  among  the  boughs  of  the  cultivated 
Fig  -  trees ;  for  the  wasps  which  escape  from  these  are 
necessary.  In  figs,  like  those  of  Smyrna,  which  are 
always  eaten  dried,  the  nutty  flavour  due  to  the  seeds 
is    much    prized.     In    the    cultivation    of    this    variety  of 


'HIE   FIG.  275 

F'ig,  tcrtilisation  has  not  been  done  a\\a\-  with,  and  il 
has  been   much   to   tlieir  ad\antag"e   to   retain   it. 

This  was  lound  b\-  experience  to  hold  i^ood  wlien 
the  experiment  was  tried  of  introducing  the  cuhi\ation 
of  the  Smyrna  Fig  into  America.  Man\-  thf)usands  of 
trees  were  phmted  in  Cahfornia  without  producing  a 
single  fruit  during  the  first  nineteen  ^•ears.  All  the 
young  figs  fell  off.  Results  were  onh-  obtained  b^• 
artificial  pollination  effected  hv  liaiul.  This  led  to  tlie 
introduction  of  tlie  L'aprilig  and  the  Blastophaga,  and 
since  then  Sm\rna  Figs  have  been  Aielding  rich  harvests 
in  America. 

The  careful  stud\'  of  all  these  facts,  and  further 
investigations  of  Tropical  species  of  Fig,  have  resulted 
in  the  discoverA-  that  the  Caprifig  and  the  cultivated 
Fig  belong  to  the  same  species,  that  is  Ficus  Can'ca, 
and  that  in  realit\-  the  Caprifig  is  the  staminate,  and 
the  cultivated  Fig  the  carpellarv  plant :  thus  we  are 
dealing  with  a  dioecious  plant. 

Even  in  ancient  times  the  varieties  of  figs  were  so 
numerous  and  continualK-  increasing  that  Pliin"  wondered 
whether  tliis  plant  would  not  alter  witli  time.  There 
were  alread\'  white  and  black  ligs :  and  next  after  the 
Attic  figs  those  from  the  neighbourhood  of  Sm\rna 
w^ere  considered  the  best.  The\'  came  originalh'  from 
the  province  of  Caria  which  included  those  districts 
whence  the  Sm\-rna  figs  are  now  brought  to  us.  This 
is  wliy  Linnaeus  called  the  Fig-tree  Carian,  Ficks 
Carica.  In  ancient  times  Carian  figs  were  brought  to 
Italy  just  as  they   are  now,    dried  and   packed  in  boxes. 


276  VARIETIES  OB^  FIG. 

A  botanist  of  Nice,  Dr.  Sauvaigo,  has  recently 
made  a  list  of  the  varieties  of  Fig  that  are  cultivated 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  Nice.  He  found  that  there 
were  sixteen;  amongst  these  were  white,  green,  grey, 
red,  black  and  brown  fruits.  Of  them  the  "Barnissotte 
blanche",  called  in  Genoa  "Brogiotto  bianco",  is  pre- 
ferred on  account  of  its  Inie  flavour.  The  Genoese  are 
said  to  have  introduced  them  from  Svria  at  the  time 
of'  the  Crusades.  Near  Nice  there  were  trees  of  the 
"Barnissotte"  that  were  over  thirty-  feet  high.  The 
Scuderi  property  at  Rimiez  boasts  of  one  thirty-six  feet 
high,  with  a  trunk  four  feet  in  diameter,  and  with  a 
spread  of  forty -live  feet.  Of  the  French  figs  the 
"Rolandine"  is  said  to  be  the  best  suited  for  drying, 
and  lasth'  the  longish  "Bellone",  with  very  sweet  red 
pulp,  is  prized  as  Queen  of  all  figs  between  Toulon 
and  St.  Remo. 

Figs  are  a  wholesome  food,  though  no  longer  so 
much  valued  as  in  ancient  days.  In  Athens  they  formed 
so  important  an  element  in  the  food  of  the  people  that 
during  bad  harvests  their  exportation  was  prohibited  to 
prevent  famine.  Hence  the  appointment  of  officials 
called  "Sycophants",  —  Fig  informers.  These  gave  infor- 
mation of  any  infringement  of  the  law,  and  often  used 
their  office  as  a  means  of  extortion;  hence  their  name 
came  to   be  identical  with  informer. 

Figs  are  about  three  times  as  nourishing  as  bread, 
this  explains  their  former  importance  as  well  as  their 
present  value  in  many  districts.  In  North  Africa  half 
the  meals  of  the  Kabyles  consist  only  of  dried  figs;  more- 


THE  FIG. 


277 


over  lari^e  Iohvos  and  compressed  cakes  are  made  of 
this  truit  and  sent  into  the  interior  of  the  Sahara.  In  the 
neii>-lihoin"hood  of  Xice  wine  is  made  of  figs,  and  the 
nati\es  consider  it  sweet  and  palatable. 

It  is  remarkable  that  in  some  districts  they  still 
continue  to  hang  up  Caprifigs  between  the  branches  of 
such  varieties  of  Fig  as  have  been  proved  to  no  longer 
require  })ollination  to  ripen  their  fruits.  This  practice 
has  frequentU'  been  referred  to  to  show  how  tenacious 
are  old  customs.  At  the  same  time  this  must  not  be 
regarded  as  an  entirely  useless  proceeding.  It  seems  that 
even  when  pollination  hv  the  Blastophagae 
is  not  necessar^'  their  stings  act 
as  an  irritant  and  thus  promote 
the  development  of  the  fig.  This 
would  agree  with  the  statement 
corresponding  effects  have 
also  been  obtained  b^• 
similar  irritants.  Thus  mauA- 
owners  of  gardens  in  Nice 
are  in  tlie  habit  of  prickinj 
of  young  figs  when  thev  are  about 
the  size  of  the  thumb.  The\'  think 
that  this  \vill  increase  their  growth 
and  cause  them  to  ripen  more 
<iuickh-.  Others  prick  the  figs, 
shorth'  before  thev^  ripen,  with 
a  straw  or  wooden  spike  which 
they  dip  first  in  the  finest  Olive  oil. 

This  is  corroborated   b\'  the 


'.O'litcra  Fill/ leva. 


278  FICUS  HIRTA. 


observations  recently  made  by  Mr.  Treub,  the  highlv 
esteemed  Director  of  the  Botanic  Gardens  in  Buitenzor<^, 
Java,  on  Ficus  Hirta  a  species  of  Fig  growing  there.  The 
infructescence  of  this  species  is  not  pollinated,  but  in  spite 
of  this  it  develops  germinating  seeds.  Hence  it  is  apparent 
that  this  is  due  to  parthenogenesis,  that  is  to  say  the 
ovules  possess  the  faculty  of  developing  and  germinating 
without  fertilisation.  Parthenogenesis  has  for  some  time 
been  known  to  exist  in  different  parts  of  the  Animal  World, 
particularly  among  insects.  And  it  has  also  been  proved 
to  exist  in  a  few  of  the  lower  plants.  But  until  quite 
recently  it  was  considered  not  to  exist  among  more 
highlv  organised  plants.  Now,  however,  several  well 
authenticated  instances  have  been  brought  to  light,  as 
in  the  case  of  Fiais  Hirta.  Nevertheless  a  fig -wasp, 
probably  the  Blastophaga  yavaiia,  is  necessary  for  the 
development  of  the  fruits  of  this  species.  Laden  with 
pollen  the  insects  penetrate  to  the  cavity  of  the  carpellary 
figs  of  Ficus  Hirta.  They  force  their  way  through  the 
opening  with  such  difficulty  that  they  lose  both  wings  and 
antennae.  Sometimes  they  do  not  succeed  in  reaching 
the  interior  of  the  fig,  and  perish  among  the  small  scales 
that  bar  the  entrance.  When  inside  the  fig  they  attempt 
to  lay  their  eggs  in  the  carpels.  Finding  this  impossible 
they  try  to  get  back.  The  minute  pollen  grains  remain 
on  the  stigmas  of  the  flowers  and  even  germinate,  but 
without  result  since  the  passage  to  the  ovules  is  unde- 
veloped. But  the  irritation  of  the  Blastophagae,  and 
particularly  their  attempts  to  prick  the  carpel,  results  in 
the  production  of  seed  and  the  ripening  of  the  fig. 


THE   FIG.  279 

It  is  curious  thai  at  Nice  tlie\-  manure  I^ii^-trces 
with  ver\-  siniihir  substances  tt)  those  with  wliicli  tlie\' 
manure  the  01i\es  at  Bordighera.  Tliex'  consider  that 
those  substances  are  the  best  which  decay  slowl\'  in 
the  ground.  Pounded  bones,  jiaper  cuttings,  road 
sweepings,  horn  parings,  woollen  rags,  j^ieces  of  leather 
and  even  the  rubbish  tVom  old  houses  may  frequently 
be  seen  biu'ied  at  tlie  foot  of  Fig-trees. 

Here  and  tliere  wild  Fig-trees  are  met  with  on  tlie 
Riviera.  These  are  found  even  as  far  north  as  Bozen. 
Who  can  say  whether  in  remote  places  some  of  these 
trees  may  not  be  realh'  wild?  They  generalh^  grow 
out  from  clefts  in  tlie  rock  and  spread  their  foliage 
gracefully  over  the  cliff.  In  earh'  spring  the^•  are  still 
leafless  and  stretch  forth  their  crooked  clums^'  branches 
fantastically,  like  weird  arms  about  to  capture  their  pre\-. 

Besides  the  Smyrna  Fig  the  best  varieties  of  Date 
Palm  have  been  lately  introduced  into  the  United 
States.  The  U.  S.  Department  of  Agriculture  in  Wash- 
ington devotes  special  attention  to  work  of  this  kind, 
and  men  appointed  as  "Assistants'"  in  the  "Division  of 
Vegetable  Ph\'siology  and  Pathology",  or  as  ''Agri- 
cultural Explorers"  in  the  "Bureau  of  Plant  Industry", 
are  entrusted  with  the  carr^•ing  out  of  these  experiments. 
These  are  scientifically  trained  botanists,  who  have  first 
mastered  the  theoretical  part  of  the  subject  and  still 
keep  up  these  studies  side  by  side  with  their  practical 
work.  Two  of  the  "Assistants"  now  usefulh'  em]■)lo^•ed 
by  the  U.  S.  Department  of  Agriculture  studied  botany 
at   Bonn,    and    I  have  the  highest  opinion  of  the   indom- 


280  DATE  PALM. 


itable  industr\'  and  perseverance,  the  intelligence  and 
patience  of  these  )'oung  scholars.  One  of  these  is 
Walter  T.  Swingle,  who  has  since  been  successful  in 
overcoming  the  obstacles  which  had  hitherto  prevented 
the  satisfactor^'  development  of  the  Smyrna  Fig  in  the 
United  States,  and  who  has  also  made  it  possible  to 
ensure  permanent  results  with  the  Date  Palm.  These 
results  have  been  obtained  onh'  b^■  the  most  careful 
study  of  the  conditions  of  life  of  these  plants  in  their 
former  habitat.  Soil,  climate,  method  of  cultivation  and 
means  of  pollination  were  all  the  subjects  of  enquiry 
and  brought  valuable  scientific  facts  to  light.  The  best 
scions  of  the  Date  Palm  were  obtained  from  the  Sahara, 
and  as  the  State  of  Arizona  presented  the  necessary 
climatic  conditions  the  results  were  successful.  V^ery 
soon  then  American  dates  will  enter  into  competition 
with  those  of  the  old  world,  as  American  lemons, 
oranges,  grapes,  and  all  kinds  of  stone  fruit  have 
already  done.  The  Date  Palm  succeeds  so  well  in 
Arizona  that  it  begins  to  bear  fruit  in  fifteen  years. 
May  the  capital  of  this  State  indeed  prove  worthy  of 
her  name  "Phoenix" ! 

CHAPTER  III, 

Those  who  are  accustomed  to  observe  the  plants 
surrounding  them  will  not  fail  to  notice  the  Arisarwn 
vulgare  (Fig.  p.  41),  an  Arum  which  is  very  common 
in  Mentone  and  all  along  the  Riviera  in  the  outskirts  of 
gardens  and  on  any  ground  that  has  once  been  cultivated. 
The  curious  dark  brown  inflorescences    rise  from  among 


ARUMS. 281 

the   dark   orcen  arrow-sliajU'd   leaves.      Tliev   consist  of  a 
cliih-shapcd   spadix   hcariii<«-   small    iiiconspiciious    llowers, 
and  a  dark-brown  spatlie,  striped  witli  white,  which  cnvel- 
()jH>s  the  spadix.     This    spathe    is    not    a    floral    envelope 
hut  a  bract.     It   forms  a  tube  terminating  in  a  fkp  which 
curves  over  like  a  helmet.     The  bare  end  of  the  spadix 
is    also    brown    and    protrudes    from    the    tube.      The   un- 
pleasant smell  emitted  by  this  inflorescence  attracts  small 
tiies  and  midges;   these  crawl  down  the  spadix    and   rub 
against  tire  tiowers,  thus  effecting  pollination.    The  spadix 
bears    both    staminate    and    carpellary    tiowers.     As    the 
stigmas  of  the  latter  come  to  maturity  before  the  staminate 
llowcrs  discharge  their  pollen,  they  are  generally  fertilised 
by  pollen    which   the    insects    bring    from    other    flowers. 
I'he  Italian   Arum  (Antiii  Halicum),    which    is  commonly 
met  with   here  in    the  spring,    is   pollinated    in    the    same 
way.      Its    arrow-shaped    leaves    (Fig.  p.   41)    are    much 
larger  and  more  pointed  than  those  of  the  Arisarum.  The 
venation   is  of  a  lighter  green  than  the    rest    of    the  leaf, 
so  that  it   is  easy    to   distinguish    these    two    plants    even 
when  not  in  flower.  A.  italicum  flowers  later  than  Arisarum. 
Its    inflorescence    resembles    that  of    the    Calla  aetliiopica 
so  commonly  grown    in    pots    at    home.      The    thickened 
end  of  the  yellow    spadix    protrudes  from  a    large  white 
spathe.      In   this  flower  it  is    not    so    much    the    smell,    as 
the    conspicuous    yellow    colour    of    the    spadix    and    the 
warmth  given  out    by    it    that    attracts    the   midges   upon 
which  the  pollination   depends.      The  temperature  begins 
to  rise  in  the  morning  and  reaches  its  maximum  between 
six  and  eight  in  the  evening.     A  spadix  will  then  attain 


282 ARUM. - 

40  **  C  and  its  warmth  can  be  felt  if  \'ou  touch  it. 
The  spadix  decreases  much  in  weight  during  this  rise 
of  temperature,  for  it  consumes  a  portion  of  its  substance 
b}^  increased  respiration.  In  fact  we  might  ahnost  saA' 
that  the  spadix  was  feverish  !  It  is  very  interesting  that 
this  phenomenon  should  be  made  use  of  by  the  plant  as 
a  device  for  cross-fertilisation. 

No  botanist  will  fail  to  notice  the  yellow  spots  on 
many  of  the  leaves  of  Arisarum  vidgare  in  the  spring. 
They  are  caused  bv  a  curious  parasite  which  attacks 
and  kills  portions  of  the  Arisarum  leaves.  In  highly 
organised  plants  these  blights  are  generally  caused  \>\ 
colourless  Hyphomycetes.  But  in  this  case  it  is  caused 
by  a  green  alga  (one  of  the  Siphoneae),  Phyllosiphon 
Arisari.  This  is  remarkable  because  living  parasitic 
plants  are  not  as  a  rule  green.  Since  the  green  colouring 
matter  is  characteristic  of  plants  which  obtain  their  own 
nourishment  from  the  air,  it  is  naturally  not  needed  as 
soon  as  parasitism  begins.  The  green  colouring  matter 
may  perhaps  be  retained  in  Phyllosiphon  because  this 
alga  has  not  long  been  living  in  this  manner.  All  its 
closest  relations  support  themselves  independenth-  and  are 
mostly  aquatic. 

CHAPTER  IV. 

It  is  very  lovely  in  the  little  garden  of  the  Hotel 
d'ltalie  at  Garavan  when  the  full  moon  stands  high  in 
the  heavens.  Then  it  hangs  over  the  sea,  tracing  silver\- 
hieroglj'phics  on  its  shimmering  surface.  Its  beams  shine 
into    the    garden    through    the    trembling    foliage    of    the 


THE  MOON. 


283 


()live  trees  and  cast  m^■sterious  shadows  upon  the  paths. 
On  evenincrs  like  tliese  we  are  rehictant  to  retire  to  our 
rooms,  and  stroll  up  and  down  out  of  doors  until  a  late 
hour.  ''Xo  planet  —  so  wrote  Pliny  —  can  charm  one 
as  does  the  moon.     She    is  the    earth's    nearest    relation. 

Nature  created  her  to  banish  the    shades  of  night 

How  manifold  are  lier  forms!  At  one  time  she  is  curved 
into  a  crescent:  at  another  cut  in  twain;  then  again 
rounded  into  a  full  orb.  Ihiw  often  does  she  darken 
and  disappear,  only  to  reappear  in  full  splendour.  Sometimes 
she  watches  faithfulh'  over  the  earth  during  the  w^hole 
night,  or  at  others  appears  only  at  a  late  hour.  Oc- 
casionalh'  she  is  visible  even  in  the  da^•time,  as  companion 
to  the  sun.  Xow  she  is  low  down  on  the  horizon,  now 
high  up  in  the  heavens.  Sometimes  she  seems  to  touch 
the  summits  of  the  high  _^^  mountains  and  follows 
now  a  northerh-  and 
erh'  course.  It  was 
grasped  the  meaning  of  these 
later  times,  legend  represented 
of  Selene.    She  <?^'« 

was    said    to      S^\^^- 

41 


then  a  more    south - 

^    Endymion  who  first 

changes.       Hence,     in 

him  as  the  lover 


Lotus 
orn  ithojiodio  ides. 


284         COLOUR  OF  THE  MEDITERRANEAN. 

have  often  come  down  to  caress  the  beautiful  }'Outh  as 
he  rested  upon  the  mountaui  of  Latmos.  How  ungrate- 
ful are  we  to  those  who,  through  weary  research,  have 
thrown  light  upon  the  sources  of  light.  O  miserable 
perversion  of  the  human  mind  which  loves  to  iill  the 
annals  of  history  with  accounts  of  bloody  deeds  and 
to  mislead  the  ingenuous  minds  of  youth  with  these 
narratives !" 

CHAPTER  V. 

The  full  moon  had  shone  clear  and  bright  the  whole 
night  through,  but  next  morning  clouds  came  up  from 
the  east,  and  soon  the  whole  sky  was  overcast  and  grev. 
Yet  the  Mediterranean  remained  blue,  retaining  its  char- 
acteristic tint. 

The  Mediterranean  owes  the  deep  blue,  which  we 
so  admire,  to  the  transparency  and  clearness  of  its  waters. 
Most  masses  of  water  are  blue  by  transmitted  light. 
This  is  why  the  ice  of  crevasses  and  glacier  caves 
appears  pure  blue.  If  a  suflicientlv  long  tube,  blackened 
within,  with  a  mirror  fixed  at  its  lower  end,  be  sunk 
perpendicularh-  into  the  Mediterranean,  we  should  see 
the  water  in  the  tube  shining  like  a  sapphire.  An  object 
appears  coloured  to  us  when  it  absorbs  certain  rays  of 
white  light  and  reflects  others.  These  reflected  rays, 
when  they  reach  our  eve,  create  the  impression  of  a  certain 
colour  which  we  ascribe  to  the  object.  Water  is  blue 
because  it  quickly  absorbs  the  red  and  ^'ellow  raA's  of 
white  light  and  transmits  only  the  blue.  To  create  this 
impression    on    our    eye    the    rays    which    reach    it    must 


PLANKTON.  285 


ha\e  passed  throuLih  the  water.  I^iit  in  absolutel\-  pure 
water  the  ra\'s  woiikl  not  he  retlected.  but  would  pass 
slraij^ht  on.  Therefore  water  must  contain  a  certain 
amount  ot  impurities  to  appear  coloured  to  us.  Suspended 
particles  are  necessar^•  to  reriect  the  light.  Tlie  smaller 
and  fewer  these  particles  are.  the  deeper  does  the  light 
penetrate  the  water  before  it  is  rellected,  and  the  bluer 
it  appears  when  it  reaches  our  e\'e.  So  tliat  the  geo- 
grapher Kriimmel  is  justified  in  sa^•ing  that  the  more 
clear  and  transparent  the  water,  the  purer  its  blue.  The 
northern  seas  are  as  a  rule  less  clear  than  the  southern 
ones,  because  in  warmer  and  salter  water  the  particles 
of  foreign  matter  sink  to  the  bottom  ejuicker:  thus  it  is 
that  the  southern  seas  are  famous  for  their  blue  colour. 
As  lakes  are  more  liable  to  be  charged  with  impurities, 
the^'  rarely  fulfil  the  conditions  necessary  for  blue  hues. 
It  has  lately  been  discovered  that  plankton,  that  swarm 
of  minute  organisms  which  live  suspended  in  the  Avater, 
contributes  largely  to  the  impurit^•  of  lakes  and  especialh' 
of  the  sea.  The  northern  seas  are  the  richest  in  plankton. 
The  eastern  end  of  the  Mediterranean  has  been  found 
to  be  particularh'  poor  in  plankton,  and  this  is  just  where 
the  blue  is  the  most  intense.  Some  physicists  have 
suggested  that  the  fineness  of  the  particles  suspended  in 
the  water  ma\"  also  contribute  to  the  depth  of  its  blue 
colouring.  For  the  smaller  the  particles  the  more  imper- 
feclh'  are  the  long- waved  red  ra\s,  and  the  more  per- 
fecth'  the  short-waved  blue  ra\'S  reflected :  and  thus  the 
blue  colour  is  intensified.  This  same  phenomenon,  taking 
place  in  our  atmosphere,  is  said  to  be  the  cause  of    the 

12 


286         COLOUR  OF  THE  MEDITERRANEAN. 

blue  colour  of  the  sky.  The  clearer  the  air  and  the 
tiner  the  particles  suspended  in  the  upper  regions,  the 
bluer  the  vault  of  heaven.  When  there  is  much  impurity 
in  the  atmosphere  the  sk^'  becomes  grey :  without  any 
impurity-  it  would  appear  black  as  does  interstellar  space. 
In  southern  seas  the  blue  is  less  intense  near  the  coast, 
and  here  green  tones  are  seen  when  the  water  is  more 
troubled.  Changes  of  colour  often  ensue  when  the  im- 
purities are  stirred  up  by  a  rough  sea.  It  is  only  in 
shallow  water  that  the  bottom  reflects  its  colour  and 
imparts  it  to  the  water.  The  statement,  therefore,  that  the 
southern  seas  owe  their  deep  blue  to  reflection  from  the 
sk^'  is  quite  incorrect.  The  Mediterranean  can  look 
blue  even  when  the  heavens  are  overcast.  Still  those 
who  have  been  fortunate  enough  to  see  and  admire  the 
exquisite  colouring  of  the  southern  seas  know  that  the 
tint  of  their  waters  is  influenced  by  the  condition  of 
the  sk}' ;  that  their  wide  expanse  reflects  the  changing 
phases  of  the  firmament,  laughing  and  weeping,  as  it 
were,  in  harmony,  clothed  at  eventide  in  purple,  mourning 
in  the  deep  half  shades  of  a  cloud\'  da\',  gleaming  like 
gold  in  the  sun  and  like  silver  in  the  moonlight.  Thus 
in  its  endless  changes  the  sea,  never  monotonous,  charms 
us  with  its  magic  spell. 

At  Mentone  the  Mediterranean  soon  attains  a  con- 
siderable depth.  The  bottom  sinks  rapidh',  so  that  at 
about  twenty-five  miles  from  the  shore  the  sounding- 
line  registers  8,250  feet. 

Nobody  ventures  to  bathe  here  in  the  winter,  and 
yet    the  temperature    of    the  water    does    not    fall    below 


TIDES.  —  TAMARISK.  287 


twrlve  or  thirteen  degrees  even  in  January.  In  shallow 
places,  \\hen  the  sea  is  calm  and  the  sun  has  been  shining 
on  it  for  some  time,  it  is  often  appreciabh'  warmer  than  this. 
We  have  no  need  to  consider  the  tides  in  the  Medi- 
terranean, for  the  difference  in  level  between  high  and 
low  tide  amounts  onh'  to  thirt\'  or  iortv  centimetres, 
l^his  is  the  same  in  the  Haltic;  but,  on  the  other  hand, 
the  saltness  of  the  Mediterranean  is  almost  double  that 
of  the  Baltic,  the  one  containing,  on  an  average,  four 
per  cent  of  salt,  the  other  onh"  2  •  2  per  cent.  Tlie 
Mediterranean  is  0  •  5  per  cent  Salter  than  the  North  Sea. 

CHAPTER  VI. 

I  can  remember  the  time  when  numerous  Tamarisks 
(  Tainarix  galh'ca)  adorned  the  shores  of  Mentone.  It 
was  a  lovely  sight  in  the  spring,  when  their  slender 
branches,  thickly  covered  with  pink  flowers,  drooped 
over  the  sea.  This  ^Mediterranean  plant  is  gradually  be- 
coming rarer  on  the  Riviera,  and  it  may  be  looked  for 
in  vain  at  Mentone.  Where  it  once  grew  plentifulh-  the 
broad  Promenade  now  stretches  between  Mentone  and 
Cap  Martin.  But  from  time  immemorial  the  Tamarisk 
has  been  characteristic  of  the  Mediterranean  flora,  and 
according  to  Homer,  Odysseus  hung  the  armour  of  Dolon 
upon  one  of  these  trees. 

On  the  other  hand  the  African  Jviciiiits  has  succeeded 
in  naturalising  itself  on  the  sea  shore  at  Garavan.  where 
it  grows  almost  to  the  height  of  a  tree.  These  Ricinus 
shrubs  are  common  on  the  Riviera  di  Ponente  where 
the  climate  seems  to  suit  them.     Ricimis  communis,    the 

12* 


288 CASTOR  OIL  PLANT. 

"Castor  Oil  Plant",  is  very  adaptable  and  behaves  as  an 
annual  in  our  gardens,  completing  its  development  in  the 
year.     It  can  ripen  its  fruits  even  at  Christiania.    It  has 
been    introduced    into    all    countries.     That  it  came  from 
Africa    is    probable,    but    difhcult    to    prove.     We   value 
this  plant  for  its    large    handsome    palmate-lobed    leaves. 
In  the    autumn    it  produces  its  flowers  in  panuicles;    the 
clusters  of  yellow  staminate  flowers  below,  and  the   car- 
pellary    flowers    with    their    red    stigmas    above.      In  the 
north  the  plant  is  killed  by  the  first  frost.   The  fact  that 
the  Ricinus  lives  so  many  years  on  the  Riviera  and  grows 
to  such  a  size,  bears  eloquent  testimon^'  to  the  mildness 
of  the    climate    here.     The    purgative    properties    of   the 
Castor  Oil  were    alreadv   known  in  ancient  Greece,    and 
Dioscorides    enumerates    it  among    the  aperients.     In  the 
Middle  Ages    also    it    was    used    for    the    same    purpose. 
Albertus  Magnus    cultivated    this    plant    under   the    name 
of  "'Kik",    and   it  is  still  called  "Kiki"  in  Greece  today. 
This  plant  is  called  '"Wunderbaum"  in  German,  because 
it    was    thought    to    correspond    to   that  ''Gourd"  which, 
according    to  legend,    grew    up    so    rapidU'    in    one  night 
that  it  was    able    to  afford    shade  to  the  Prophet  Jonah. 
The  sharp-tasting   Ricinus  acid,  as  well  as  several  other 
fixed  acids,  have  been  extracted  from  Castor  Oil:  but  it 
has  not  yet  been  ascertained  to  which  principle  the  pur- 
gative effect  is  due.     The  Chinese  deprive  the  oil  of  its 
purgative  properties  b\'  boiling  it  with  alum,  sugar,  and 
water,  and  when  treated  in  this  wa\'  the  oil  ma^'  be  used 
for  food.     A  famous  Chinese  dish,    which  strangers  also 
appreciate,  is  shark's  fins  fried  in  Castor  Oil. 


GARAVAN. 


289 


CHAPTER  VII. 

In  the  afternoon    the 
Sirocco  began  to  blow 
and  it  became  hot  and 
sultr^■.      After    snpper    I 
went  ont  into  the  garden 
in  front  of  the  house  and 
then    furtlier    down   to   the 
shore  in  the  hopes  of  getting 
cool.     I  sat    down    upon    a   rock 
which    juts    out    into  the  Bay  of 
Garavan.  The  hot  wind  had  ceased 
but    the    air    was    still    oppressive. 

The  stars  shone  in  the  clear  sky, 
and    their    reflections   danced 
on    the    waves.      Here    and 
there      bright      lights      rose 
mvsterioush-     out     of 
the  deep:  the^•  Hashed 
on    the    crests    of    the 
billows,   or  traced  long 
streaks    on   the    dark    waters. 
Tliese  were  marine  creatures  which 
were  illuminating,  with  their  own 
light,  their  path  in  the  darkness  of 
night.     I    watched    this    sparkling 
and  gleaming  of  the  sea.  From 
time  to  time  I  threw  a  handful 
of   pebbles   down  into  the 
which  appeared  to  ignite  wherever  a 


.^Litthiola 
incaiia. 


290 PHOSPHORESCENT  FUNGI. 

stone  fell.  Then  I  strolled  to  the  port  and  engaged  a 
boatman  to  row  me  out  some  distance  into  the  open  sea. 
At  each  stroke  of  the  oar  the  water  was  lighted  up;  it 
flowed  off  the  oars  like  liquid  metal  and  washed  round  the 
bow  like  a  cascade  of  lire.  It  was  a  wonderful  sight.  I  had 
not  seen  the  sea  shine  so  beautifully  for  many  a  long 
year.  I  once  saw  it  even  more  beautiful  —  in  the  Gulf 
of  Smyrna.  Then  the  crests  of  the  waves  were  like  fiery 
sheaves,  and  the  ship  sailed  through  a  sea  of  flame. 

On  land  also  there  are  organisms  which  shine  in  the 
dark;  but-their  number  is  small  compared  to  that  of  the 
luminous  inhabitants  of  the  sea.  The  mycelium  of  certain 
fungi,  which  live  on  rotten  wood,  give  out  a  phosphores- 
cent light  in  the  dark,  and  then  the  decaying  wood  itself 
appears  to  shine.  Many  a  superstitious  wanderer  has 
been  terrified  on  a  dark  night  by  the  uncanny  appearance 
of  a  half-fallen  tree  trunk  shining  m^'Steriously.  This 
phosphorescence  is  most  common  in  the  height  of 
summer  and  in  the  autumn  after  continued  rain,  and  in 
sultry  weather.  The  light  is  white  and  dull  like  that  of 
phosphorus  in  a  darkened  room.  Root  stumps,  which  have 
remained  so  long  in  the  soil  of  a  forest  that  they  are 
beginning  to  decay,  are  generally  permeated  by  the 
luminous  mycelium  of  a  fungus.  A  small  piece  dug  up 
and  laid  in  damp  moss  at  home  will  begin  to  shine  in 
the  dark  after  a  little  while.  This  will  probably  be  the 
luminous  mycelium  of  the  Halimash  (Agaricus  nielleus), 
a  fungus  commonly  parasitic  on  wood.  One  of  the 
prettiest  of  these  natural  illuminations  in  our  regions  takes 
place    at    the  summer  solstice  when,  late  in  the  evening. 


I'LANKTOX.  291 

tlu'  <,n-()vos  in  (icnnaiu  arc  liolited  up  by  tliousands 
ol"  irlow-wornis  (A(n///>vr/s  uociihica).  Only  the  males  of 
these  beetles  Ih',  drawiiit^  brii^dit  streaks  through  the  air, 
wliile  the  females,  wliicli  are  also  luminous,  remain  on 
the  ground. 

The  number  ol  luminous  inhabitants  ot  the  sea  is 
endless;  almost  every  division  of  the  Animal  World 
contains  luminous  representatives,  l^ut  only  a  tew  of 
these  creatures  contribute  to  the  nightlv  illumination  of 
the  surface  of  the  sea.  The  rest  live  in  the  depths 
below  and  shine  in  the  perpetual  darkness.  The  lighting 
up  of  the  surface  of  the  sea  is  the  result  of  the  aggreg- 
ation of  countless  numbers  of  lowly  organisms.  It  is 
the^•  who  border  eacli  wave  with  a  silvery  liem  and 
trace  tlie  ship's  course  as  a  sliining  furrow.  Most  of 
these  organisms  belong  to  the  Animal  World,  but  niany 
minute  plants  are  associated  with  them :  these  permeate 
ihe  sea  and  are  known  as  plankton.  ^Fhis  plankton 
lives  suspended  in  the  upper  la^■ers  of  the  water,  or  at 
night  rises  to  the  surface.  But  the  fier^-  streaks  which 
shoot  through  the  water  are  emitted  b\'  more  highly 
organised  creatures,  generalh-  those  large  bell -shaped 
Medusae,  which  the  Arab  so  appropriately  calls  "Lant- 
erns of  the  sea". 

There  are  liglit-emitting  bacteria  in  the  sea;  these 
are  sometimes  met  with  on  land  also.  They  do  not, 
however,  contribute  to  the  illumination  of  the  sea, 
although  the\-  are  found  in  all  seas.  They  settle  upon 
other  organisms  which  then  begin  to  phosphoresce  in 
the    dark    with    a    silver\- white    or    bluish -green     light. 


292  PHOSPHORESCENT  MEAT. 

But  this  onlv  takes  place  on  exposure  to  the  air,  for 
the  Photo-bacteria  cannot  shine  without  oxygen.  This 
phosphorescence  is  easih'  transferred  from  fish  to  meat: 
hence  the  opinion  so  long  held  that  phosphorescent 
meat  must  have  been  in  contact  with  fish.  But  lately 
the  botanist  Hans  Molisch  has  established  the  fact  that 
luminous  bacteria  are  regularly  met  with  inland.  They 
require  a  little  salt,  and  this  ma.v  explain  why  luminous 
bacteria  haye  not  yet  been  proved  to  inhabit  fresh 
water.  Mention  is  made  of  phosphorescent  meat  in 
very  ancient  times,  but  the  first  reliable  information 
about  it  dates  from  1592  and  is  due  to  the  famous 
anatomist  of  Padua,  Hieron\'mus  Fabricius  ab  Aqua- 
pendale.  Anyone  can  easih'  observe  this  phenomenon  if 
so  inclined.  But  a  butcher  who  noticed  it  would,  for 
good  reasons,  conceal  it,  for  phosphorescent  meat 
looks  unpleasant,  and  rumours  of  such  an  occurrence  might 
injure  his  trade.  Luminous  bacteria  are,  however,  quite 
harmless,  and  even  a  phosphorescent  sausage  ma}'  be 
eaten  without  any  danger,  provided,  of  course,  that  it  is 
not  bad  in  any  other  wa}',  and  does  not  contain  any  of 
those  poisonous  Ptomaines  which  are  known  in  Germany 
as  "Wurstglft".  A  low  temperature  favours  the 
development  of  luminous  bacteria,  so  that  they  thrive 
in  ice  cellars  and  cold  storage  rooms.  Most  pieces  ot 
meat,  if  laid  in  a  three  per  cent  solution  of  salt  and 
water  so  that  the^'  are  not  quite  submerged,  should 
begin  to  phosphoresce  after  a  few  days.  Phosphorescent 
meat  need  not  necessarily  smell  bad,  for  it  may  only 
be  in  the  very  first  stage  of  deca^'.     The  bacteria  which 


LUMINOUS   BACTERIA.  293 


cause  this  pluMionienon  are  called  A/irrocin'nis p/io<;p/n>rns. 
Tliey  are  minute  spherical  or  ovoid  cells  whose  diameter 
does  not  exceed  one  or  two  thousandths  of  a  millimeter. 
At  a  temperature  of  from  nine  to  twelve  above  zero 
these  organisms  shine  so  brightly  that  their  phosphores- 
cence can  be  seen  even  in  the  day  time  in  the  diffused 
light  of  a  room.  They  are  very  sensitive  to  higher 
temperatures,  and  about  30^  suffices  to  kill  them.  These 
bacteria  therefore  could  hardh-  exist  in  our  bodies. 
They  have  been  photographed  by  their  own  light.  Like 
the  i^hosphorescent  fungi  they  shine  without  intermission, 
while  the  luminous  organisms  in  the  sea  shine  only  when 
they  are  irritated.  Hence  the  shock  of  a  stone  thrown 
into  the  sea  causes  this  light-reaction  in  these  lower 
organisms.  The  sudden  illumination  of  these  organisms 
when  irritated  may  be  protective  and  intended  to  terrify 
the  approaching  enemy.  But  tliis  light  must  have  other 
advantages  for  those  creatures  which  live  in  the  ocean 
depths:  it  must  facilitate  their  quest  for  food. 

In  all  luminous  creatures  the  emission  of  light  is 
associated  with  life  and  disappears  at  death.  In  spite 
of  this  the  physiologist  Raphael  Dubois  has  succeeded 
in  extracting  the  luminous  substance  produced  in  abun- 
dance b}-  certain  molluscs,  the  so  called  "Sea-dates" 
(Pholas  dactylus).  It  had  long  been  known  that  tlie 
hands  and  mouths  of  those  eating  these  molluscs  became 
phosphorescent.  PVom  this  luminous  substance  Raphael 
Dubois  made  crystalline  ''Luciferin"'.  and  a  ferment 
called  -'Luciferase" ;  and  when  he  mixed  these  the 
solution    phosphoresced.     Raphael  Dubois    and    Mollisch 


294  BAUSSI  ROSSI.  

endeavoured  to  use  the  luminous  bacteria  for  making 
living  safety  lamps.  Glass  globes  were  coated  on  their 
inner  surface  with  a  thin  layer  of  gelatine  containing 
germs  of  Bacterium  phosphor iiiiu.  The  bacteria  increased 
rapidh'  and  after  a  day  or  two  began  to  shine  with  a 
beautiful  bluish  green  light.  This  lasted  a  fortnight. 
A  few  of  these  globes  are  sufficient  to  illuminate  a  dark 
room  so  that  objects  can  be  clearlv  seen.  Since  the 
cold  light  of  these  bacteria  does  not  ignite  either 
powder  or  gas  these  lamps  ma^'  perhaps  come  into  use 
in  powder  magazines  and  speciallv  dangerous  mines. 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Among  the  coloured  pictures  seen  in  the  shop 
windows  of  Mentone  there  are  alwa^'S  views  of  the 
"Baussi  Rossi"  representing  them  in  the  reddest  of 
evening  lights.  The  rocks  which  go  by  this  name  are 
actually  in  Itah',  and  are  soon  reached  bv  the  road 
which  runs  along  close  to  the  sea  be^'ond  Garavan. 
They  are  ^formed  of  a  reddish  lime-stone.  There  are 
caves  in  these  rocks  in  which  important  discoveries  of 
prehistoric  remains  have  been  made.  The  view  of 
Mentone  from  this  projection  of  the  coast  is  very 
beautiful,  even  though  not  equal  to  that  from  the  road 
above.  Those  who  are  not  afraid  of  a  steep  climb 
would  do  well,  after  visiting  the  caves,  to  ascend  the 
footpath  which  leads  up  to  Grimaldi,  returning  to 
Mentone   bv   the   upper   road. 

The  caves  of  the  Baussi  Rossi  had  already  aroused 
the  interest  of  Horace  Benedict  de  Saussure  towards  the 


PREHISTORIC  REMAINS. 


295 


end    of    the    eighteenth    centurv ; 

but  tlie\-   did  not  become 

famous      unlil      after    the 

excavations  of  18/2,  1S73, 

and   18^)2.     For    some    time 

it  was  thought  that  the  remains 

found    in     these     caves    were     those    of 

Tertiar\-    man.      I^ut  this  was  not  confirmed.     The 

skeletons   found    liere,    several    of   which    remain   /// 

si'tii,     realh'    belong    to    the    Old    Stone    Age 

(Palaeolithic).      At    this    period   ]\Ian  lived  on 

the    coast   here   togetlier   with  the  Cave  Bear, 

Aurox,  Cave  H^•aena  and  Rhinoceros,  as  the 

bones    dug    up  at  the  same  time  testif\'. 

llius  this   is    an    ancient    burial    place,    dating 

back  far  be\'ond  our  oldest  historical  monuments. 


; 


CHAPTER  IX. 

The    narrow   gauge    "Ligne    du    Sud    de    hi 
France'',    from    Nice    to   Grasse,    runs    along    the 
mountain  slopes  througli  most  picturesque  scener\-. 
The    railwa\'  begins    to    ascend    immedi- 
atelv  on  leaving  the  station  which   is 
in  the  Avenue  Malaussena  —    a  con- 
tinuation of  the  Avenue  de  hi  Gare. 


.^foricaiidia 
tirxiiisi 


The  view  over  Nice,  spreading  wide 
with    its    pahitial    II(')tels.    is    verv    striking.      The 
line    leads    on    through    narrow    valle\s,     between 
country    houses    with    gardens    and    past    wooded 
slopes.     This    excursion    should    not    be    made   too 


D 


296  THE  VAR  VALLEY.  

early  in  the  season,  in  any  case  not  before  the 
commencement  of  April,  as  the  heights  only  then 
begin  to  deck  themselves  with  their  green  spring 
covering.  We  soon  reach  the  valley  of  the  \"ar,  in  whose 
pebbly  bed  there  are  generally  only  narrow  channels  of 
water.  This  view  is  not  exactly  fine,  but  the  eye  is  at 
once  attracted  by  the  background  of  mountains  —  those 
might\-  snow  peaks  that  tower  beAond  the  gorge  through 
which  the  Var  flows.  They  stand  in  line,  the  Caire 
Cougourda,  Caire  Agnel,  Cima  Giranda,  and  all  the 
other  giants  of  the  Maritime  Alps.  In  the  foreground, 
on  steep  heights,  the  grey  villages  of  Carros,  Bonson  and 
Gattieres  keep  watch  over  the  valle\',  looking  as  if  they 
had  been  placed  there  to  enhance  the  romantic  beauty 
of  the  landscape.  To  the  West  the  mighty  rock  of  Baou 
de  St.  Jeannet  forms  a  frame  to  the  picture.  With  this 
scene  before  us  we  reach  Colomars  where  the  line  divides. 
One  branch  continues  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Var,  the 
other  crosses  it  and  turns  up  towards  Grasse.  Here  the 
rail  at  once  begins  to  ascend  steeph*  and  the  scenery  grows 
grander  as  we  proceed.  Now  in  the  far  distance  to  the 
east  the  snowy  crest  of  the  Cima  du  Gelas,  10,359  feet 
high,  dominates  the  scene.  The  massive  cliff  of  the  Baou 
de  St.  Jeannet  looms  larger  the  nearer  we  approach.  It 
is  as  conspicuous  a  feature  of  the  landscape  here  as  the 
Tete  de  Chien  in  the  Monaco  district.  To  the  south-east 
of  St.  Jeannet,  and  visible  from  afar,  lie  the  ruins  of  a 
castle,  called  by  the  people  "The  Witches'  Castle".  It 
was  once  a  "Commanderie"  of  the  Knights  Templar, 
and  its  massive  walls  still  defy  the  ravasfes  of  time.    At 


GORGE  OF  THE  LOUP. 297 

St.  leannet  tlu-  lugma^e  van  ol  our  train  was  lilU-d  with 
baskets  which  emitted  a  strong  perfinne.  They  evidently 
contained  Roseniar\-  and  Th\ine,  and  as  the  higgage 
vail  was  in  front  ol  the  train  we  now  travelled  in  a 
scented  atmosphere  and  must  luive  left  behind  us  a  long 
trail  of  perfumed  air.  The  old  town  of  \^entium,  the 
dark.  o-re\-  N'ence  of  toda\-,  once  inhabited  b\-  the  Ligurian 
Xemesii,  which  I  had  hitherto  onh'  seen  from  a  distance, 
now  hn'  at  m^■  feet.  Then  the  line  continued,  crossing 
the  valle\s  on  high  bridges,  or  winding  along  the  mountain 
side  on  narrow^  ledges.  Looking  inland  we  saw  the  deep 
ravine  of  Cosson,  with  the  picturesque  hamlet  of  Tourettes- 
sur-Loup  o\erhanging  it  at  a  great  height;  to  the  south- 
east la\-  the  sea  glittering  in  the  sunshine.  A  bold  viaduct 
crosses  the  Loup,  whose  romantic  gorge  is  much  visited 
from  (jrasse.  Wonderful  are  the  foaming  cascades  that 
dash  down  the  steep  rocks  into  the  depths  below.  The 
train  reaches  the  old  town  of  Le  Bar  b\'  a  long  bridge. 
This  town  was  once  a  Roman  Post.  Again  we  move 
on.  and  Grasse  and  the  wide  plain  of  the  Siagne  suddenly 
come  into   view. 

CHAPTER  X. 

Grasse  lies  on  the  steep  slope  of  Rocavignon.  It 
is  well  protected  from  the  north,  and  its  gardens  are  the 
highest  on  the  Riviera  in  which  Palm  trees  thrive.  The 
greater  part  of  the  town  still  retains  its  mediaeval  aspect. 
Its  streets  wind  up  the  slope,  while  shorter  cuts  are  made 
b\'  steep  steps.  The  opposite  buildings  are  bound  together 
b\-  buttresses  as  though  to  prevent   their    slipping    down 


298  GRASSE. 

the  hill.  The  people  throng  the  streets  in  the  evening. 
Sometimes  the  crowd  is  so  dense  as  to  impede  the  traffic. 
Here  and  there  the  old  houses,  gre^'  with  age,  have 
been  fitted  with  large  shop  windows  displaving  goods 
which  are  little  in  keeping  with  their  surroundings.  From 
many  of  the  house  doors  there  issues  a  smell  of  grease, 
onions  and  garlic.  Dishes  of  ummistakable  Mediterranean 
savour  are  being  fried.  But  this  smell  of  oil  is  combined 
with  a  penetrating  perfume  which  might  be  pleasant 
enough  in  more  open  places;  it  comes  from  Sandal-wood 
which  is  spread  out  in  the  perfume  factories.  The  work- 
ing of  it  had  just  begun. 

Grasse  is  of  ver^•  ancient  origin,  but  has  been  repeat- 
edly destroyed.  Its  restoration  in  the  sixth  century 
was,  according  to  a  legend,  accomplished  b^'  Jews.  They 
were  said  to  be  descendants  of  those  Jews  who  were 
driven  out  of  Rome  by  Tiberius  towards  the  ^'ear  1*^)  of 
our  era.  During  the  persecution  which  broke  out  in 
Provence  in  the  sixth  centur\'  these  Jews  turned  Christian 
and  received  the  ruins  of  the  old  Roman  town  as  a 
reward.  It  is  theA'  who  gave  it  the  name  of  "Gratia". 
The  arms  of  Grasse  bear  a  silver  Paschal  Lamb  on  an 
azure  field,  and  some  have  sought  to  connect  this  with 
the    former    conversion    of   those    who    rebuilt    the  town. 

We  do  not  consider  Grasse  exactly  beautiful;  even 
the  view  of  the  distant  sea  from  its  squares  and  gardens 
does  not  enchant  us.  For  the  stiff  and  formal  barracks 
beyond  the  hills  are  an  e^-esore.  But  the  view  of  Grasse 
itself  is  pleasing  from  the  garden  of  the  Grand  Hotel, 
which  is  reached  in  twenty  minutes  b}-  the  new  Avenue 


iM:i>:rrMi-:  ixdi'stry.  299 

Thiers  at  the  upper  part  ol"  the  town.  Tlie  Agaves  and 
Pahns  in  the  o-arden  frame  the  view  of  the  Old  town 
most  effectively  and  they  hide  the  unsiirhth-  new  buildings, 
leaving  only  the  angular  old  towers  and  houses  that  lie 
crowded  pell-mell  on  the  slope  of  the  hill. 

However  the  object  of  our  visit  to  Grasse  was  not 
to  enhance  our  impressions  of  the  scenery,  but  to  obtain 
an  insight  into  the  complicated  perfume  industry  here. 
Grasse  has  been  renowned  for  more  than  a  hundred  and 
fifty  years  for  these  products,  and  its  success  in  this 
manufacture  dates  back  even  farther.  We  were  shown 
the  house  in  which,  in  the  second  half  of  the  sixteenth 
century,  Sieur  Tombarelli  of  Florence  had  fitted  up  a 
laboratory  for  making  perfumes.  Grasse  is  now  one  of 
the  chief  perfume  manufacturing  towns  of  Europe.  It 
does  not,  however,  supply  the  prepared  perfumes,  such  as 
the  so-called  "Bouquets",  but  only  the  first  extracts  of 
which  these  are  composed.  "Bouquets"  are  mixtures  which 
the  perfumers  prepare  according  to  the  prevailing  fashion 
or  taste.  The  composition  of  these  mixtures  is  generalh- 
kept  secret,  and  their  blending  is  a  peculiar  art  requiring 
great  experience  and  special  aptitude.  Sometimes  these 
mixed  perfumes  bear  names  which  have  no  reference 
whatever  to  their  origin.  This  is  the  case  with  the  wideh' 
used  "Corylopsis  du  Japon".  It  is  true  that  several  species 
of  the  genus  Corylopsis  belonging  to  the  order  Hama- 
melidaceae  occur  in  Japan,  and  are  also  cultivated  in  our 
gardens  as  ornamental  shrubs,  but  the\-  have  no  perfume 
whatsoever.  Dr.  E.  Gildermeister  informs  me  that  it  was 
for  this  very  reason  that  the  perfume  was  given  this  name 


300  PERFUMES. 


bv  the  inventor.  For  the  names  of  perfume  -  yielding 
plants  are  not  allowed  to  be  registered  at  the  Patent 
Office  for  the  Protection  of  Names  of  Perfumes.  The 
perfume  called  "'Corylopsis"  is  practically  a  mixture  of 
all  possible  kinds  of  ethereal  oils,  but  particularh'  Oil 
of  Roses.  Patchouli,  Lavender  and  Bergamot,  besides 
Musk  and  Civet. 

Grasse  extracts  its  perfumes  almost  exclusively  from 
the  Vegetable  World.  But  now  chemistry  is  beginning 
to  influence  the  perfume  industry,  as  by  it  the  fragrant 
substances  are  manufactured  absolutely  pure.  It  has  been 
particularly  successful  in  producing  Cumarin,  the  sub- 
stance that  is  used  to  represent  the  smell  of  mown  grass 
and  plucked  Woodruffe,  out  of  Salicylaldehyd.  The  pro- 
cess is  somewhat  complicated,  but  the  aromatic  sub- 
stance, which  is  obtained  in  shining  colourless  crystals, 
is  precisely  the  same  as  that  contained  in  the  Tonka- 
bean,  the  seeds  of  the  Tonka  tree  (Dipterix  odorata)  of 
Guiana,  and  in  the  stalks  of  -Liatn's  odoratissiimi,  a  com- 
posite which  grows  in  Florida  and  is  used  for  scenting 
tobacco  and  cigars.  With  about  twenty  grammes  of 
artificial  Cumarin  as  much  can  now  be  effected  in  the 
perfume  factory  as  with  a  kilogramme  of  Tonka-beans. 
It  is  the  same  with  the  natural  "Winter-green  oil",  which 
is  extracted  from  a  North  American  shrub,  Gaidteria 
procuiiihciis,  belonging  to  the  Ericaceae,  and  which  is 
now  completely  replaced  b\'  artiticialh'  made  Meth\'l 
Salicylate.  But  on  the  other  hand  Bitter  Almond 
oil,  which  was  so  much  used  in  perfumery,  has  been 
only    partially    supplemented    by    artificial    Bensaldehyd. 


CHEMICAL  I^ERFUMES. 


301 


t."luMnistr\'    lias    arhicvecl    sj-)lcnclid    results  with    \'unilliii. 

This   is  obtained    from   the   sap  of  the 

^■oun^■    growing'    wood  of  L'onifers 
and    also    from    iMigenol,     which 
is    contained    in    Oil    of    Cloves 
and  man\'  other  substances.     In 
the  course  of  \-ears    its    manu- 
facture   has    become    so    much 
cheaper    that,     whereas    in    the 
year   18()7  one  kilogramme  cost 
six    thousand    marks,    a    hundred 
kilogrammes    can    now    be 
bought     for     that      sum. 
X'anilla    pods    \ield   onh- 
from  one-and-a-half  to  two 
per     cent     of    \'anillin     under 
the  most  favourable  condi 
ions:  so  that  with 
from  twent^• 

to    twenty->fy'         live     grammes 
of XanillinflT     the  same  resul 
satisfact- 
]")erfume 
gramme 
tropin"" 
Safrol,    this 

l-»roduct     of     a  Japanese     Cam- 

phor oil.  The  cjuantity  of  perfume  obtained 
from    the    llowers  of  Heliotropes   (Helio- 

,        ,  ,  .  ,  7  •  -7  .    .  Narcissus 

iropum  pcniviaiiutn  ?iX\6.  o-rauaiflorum)  is        Tazetta. 


302 ARTIFICIAL  VIOLET  PERFUME. 

so  small  that  this  discovery  is  all  the  more  welcome.  As  it 
is  quite  impossible  to  extract  the  delicate  perfume  of  the 
Lily  of  the  "V^alle\'  it  is  a  matter  of  import  to  the  perfume 
distillers  that  an  extract  with  the  same  scent  can  now  be 
distilled  from  an  alcohol,  known  as  Linalool.  In  Nature 
Linalool  is  pretty  wideh'  distributed  as  a  constituent  of 
various  ethereal  oils,  but  it  occurs  more  abundantly  in 
Linalooil,  which  is  obtained  from  the  wood  of  Mexican 
and  Guianan  trees,  the  first  belonging  most  certainly  to  the 
Burseraceae  and  the  latter  probably  to  the  Lauraceae. 
Crystalline  Thymol  is  now  much  used.  This  is  not 
distilled  from  Th^'me  but  from  the  seeds  of  the  East 
Indian  Umbellate  Ptychotis  Ajoivan:  also  Menthol,  which, 
though  not  used  in  the  manufacture  of  perfumes,  forms 
an  ingredient  of  remedies  for  headache  and  is  used  as 
snuff.  Not  long  ago  two  substances  were  artificially 
produced,  "Iron"  and  "Jonon".  The  aroma  of  both 
these  almost  exactly  corresponds  to  that  of  Violet  blos- 
soms. Merely  opening  a  test-tube  filled  with  these  ex- 
tracts is  sufticient  to  scent  a  whole  room  with  the  odour 
of  Violets.  It  is  a  remarkable  fact  that  at  times  these 
two  extracts  do  not  smell  as  strongly  as  at  others  and 
fresh  Violets  exhibit  the  same  variabilit\'  in  strength  of 
odour.  Iron  is  extracted  fi-om  the  so-called  "\^iolct 
root",  the  dried  root-stock  of  Iris  floreutiua;  but  it  is 
sold  at  a  very  high  price,  as  a  hundred  kilogrammes  of 
root-stock  only  yield  from  eight  to  thirty  grammes  of 
Iron.  It  is  therefore  of  great  importance  to  the  perfume 
industry  that  the  manufacture  of  Jonon  from  Citral, 
which   is    a    constituent    of    Citron-oil    and    is    still    more 


PERFUMES. 303 

ahundaiit  in  Lenion(,n-ass-oil.  has  been  successtully  accom- 
plislied.  Not  long  ago  artificialK-  produced  Orangc- 
llo\\cr-oil.  Madarin-oil  and  Jasmine-oil  were  added  to  the 
number,  and  quite  recentl\-  the  oil  of  ^'lang-^'lang. 
Hitherto  this  latter  has  onh-  been  extracted  from  the 
flowers  of  a  tree  culti\ated  in  Southern  Asia,  Caiicniu;a 
odorafa,  belonging  to  the  Anonaceae.  An  attempt  has 
been  made  to  substitute  the  artilicial  Muse  Haur,  or 
TouLiuin  Oil.  for  the  musk  of  the  male  Musk  animal,  and 
the  use  of  this  product  is  increasing.  From  time  imme- 
morial valuable  scents  have  reached  us  from  warmer  zones, 
as  did  the  Balsams  in  ancient  times.  But  in  the  main 
the  perfumers  owe  their  most  fragrant  scents  to  Southern 
Europe.  Most  aromas  distilled  from  plants  are  obtained 
in  tlie  form  of  ethereal  oils,  which,  unlike  the  fat  oils, 
are  volatile  and  produce  on  paper  a  transparent  spot 
that  soon  vanishes.  The  i\nimal  World  cannot  produce 
these  oils.  In  plants  it  is  chiefh'  the  flowers  that  con- 
tain the  fragrant  essences.  For  in  these  perfume  and 
colour  unite  to  attract  those  creatures  which  carr\-  the 
pollen  from  blossom  to  blossom.  Vet  occasionalh'  it  happens 
that  the  scented  substance  may  be  collected  in  some  other 
part  of  the  plant ;  for  example  Iron  in  the  root-stock  of 
Iris,  and  \'etiver  in  the  root-stock  of  the  East  Indian 
grass,  Andropogon  iniin'catiis.  The  wood  of  tree-stems 
ma\'  contain  perfume,  as  for  instance  the  wood  of  the 
Balsam-vielding  tree,  or  the  East  Indian  Sandalwood- 
tree  (Santalwn album).  In  the  Cinnamon-tree  {Cinnamomiim 
Zexlam'aim)  it  is  the  bark  that  contains  the  scent.  Again 
in  other  instances  it  is  the  leaves  that  are  the  most  frag- 


304  PERFUME  FACTORY. 

rant,  like  our  Peppermint  (Mentha  Piperita),  or  Melissa 
(M.  officinalis),  or  the  Indo-Malayan  Patchouli  (Pog-osfeiiion 
PatcJiouli).  Finally  fruits  and  seeds  may  also  contain 
the  scented  materials,  as  for  instance  V^anilla  or  Cumin. 
White  flowers  generally  yield  stronger  and  more 
delicious  fragrance,  whereas  brown  and  orange -red 
flowers  yield  very  little  of  any  value  to  the  perfume 
industry. 

We  had  provided  ourselves  with  the  necessar^'  intro- 
ductions, and  were  permitted  to  inspect  some  of  the  largest 
Perfume  factories  in  Grasse.  The  processes  were  in  the 
main  everywhere  the  same.  Sweet  scented  substances 
that  are  abundant  in  one  portion  of  a  plant,  and  are 
secreted  in  rather  large  glands,  can  be  set  free  by  pressure. 
In  other  cases  the  usual  process  of  distillation  is  em- 
ployed, provided  that  the  essence  will  not  suffer  by  being 
heated.  Where  this  is  to  be  feared  distillation  is  carried 
on  under  a  low  air  pressure  and  at  a  much  lower  tem- 
perature. But  frequently,  when  the  latter  process  is  not 
advisable  they  have  recourse  to  maceration  with  liquid 
fats,  to  absorbtion  by  cold  fats,  or  to  volatile  solvents. 
Certain  flowers  are  unsuited  for  distillation  as  they  contain 
too  little  ethereal  oil.  Again  some  flowers,  such  as  Jasmine 
and  the  Tuberose,  continue  to  produce  scented  substances 
even  after  being  gathered,  and  therefore  must  not  be 
killed  immediately.  The  problem  is,  then,  how  to  extract 
the  scent  from  them  as  it  is  being  formed.  Such  flowers 
are  the  very  opposite  of  those  that  require  to  be  rapidly 
killed  because  their  scent  substance  decomposes  easily.  If 
material    of    this    sort    cannot   be  worked  immediately,  it 


vioi.F/r  ri-:RFUME.  305 


is  put  into  special  rece]:)tacles  which  arc  lillcd  with  tlie 
vapour  ot   a  suitable   soUent,  proi>ahl\'   ether. 

W'iien  we  arri\ed  in  Grasse  the  V'iolet  harvest  was 
over,  and  the  jon(.|uils  were  in  full  bloom.  X^iolets  contain 
only  minute  ejuantities  of  the  fragrant  substance  which 
is  extracted  chieth-  bv  fat.  In  this  wa\-  the\-  get  a  Pomade 
which  smells  of  \'iolets.  The  fat  w^iich  is  employed  for 
this  ])urpose  must  of  course  be  perfectU'  j:)ure,  and  we 
observed  that  at  the  factories  it  is  obtained  from  freshly 
slaughtered  animals  such  as  pigs,  oxen  and  sheep.  The 
fat  is  then  put  into  special  machines  which  shred  it  up. 
The  fat  can  then  be  melted  out  without  being  subjected 
to  a  ver\-  high  temperature.  After  cooling,  the  clear  fat 
is  then  ground  in  mortars  and  repeatedly  washed  in  clean 
water.  It  is  then  melted  again,  and  alum  powder  added 
to  it;  then  quickly  boiled  up  and  skimmed.  But  this 
does  not  yet  complete  the  preparator^■  treatment.  The 
liquid  fat  has  still  to  be  pressed  through  linen,  and  boiled 
with  rosewater  and  powdered  Benzoic  resin,  and  must 
be  skimmed  as  long  as  froth  continues  to  form.  B\-  the 
addition  of  Benzoine,  or  other  Balsams,  and  \'ery  careful 
washing,  the  fat  is  prevented  from  becoming  rancid.  For 
salves,  fine  oils,  especially  olive  oil,  are  employed.  They 
soak  pieces  of  coarse  cotton  in  this  oil.  and  allow  the 
perfume  to  be  absorbed  b^■  it,  then  squeeze  it  out  under 
strong  pressure. 

For  the  manufacture  of  violet  perfume  the  delicate 
blue,  double  variet\-,  ''\'iolette  de  Parme'',  is  preferred. 
The  tlowers  must  not  be  wet  when  taken  to  the  perfume 
factory.      This     rule     applies     to     all     other    plants     that 


306 VIOLET  PERFUME. 

are  to  be  treated  with  fat.  Therefore  thev  gather  the 
Molets  earh'  in  the  morning  when  the  dew  has  dis- 
appeared, but  before  the  sun  has  become  hot.  Immediate- 
ly after  gathering,  the  flowers  are  taken  to  the  factory 
where,  if  the\'  are  to  be  treated  b^'  the  process  of  macer- 
ation. the^'  are  put  into  fat  which  has  been  warmed, 
and  which  is  kept  hquid  in  a  bath  of  water  at  a  tem- 
perature of  from  4CV  to  59°  C.  After  a  few  liours 
the  fat  is  strained  off  from  the  Violets  and  again  replen- 
ished with  fresh  flowers.  This  is  continued  repeatedly 
until  the  fat  is  quite  saturated  with  violet  perfume.  From 
this  fat  the  scented  substance  is  extracted  by  shaking  it 
up    with    spirits    of  wine,    or   good    refined    corn-brandy. 

As  the  \iolet  pomade  produced  hv  the  heating 
process  sometimes  smells  a  little  of  sulphur,  the  cold 
process,  which  is  called  "-enfleurage",  is  employed  to 
extract  the  scent.  In  the  factories  we  visited  we  saw 
man^'  rooms  filled  with  wooden  frames  placed  one  above 
the  other.  Each  frame  contained  a  sheet  of  glass  spread 
with  fat  and  strewn  with  \'iolets.  The  frames  fitted 
exactly  on  to  each  other  so  that  no  perfume  could  pos- 
sibly escape.  When  the  perfume  of  one  layer  of  flowers 
is  exhausted,  these  are  replaced  bv  fresh  ones,  and  this 
is  repeated  until  the  fat  is  saturated. 

Recently  the  Petrol-ether  method  of  extraction  has 
come  into  use  for  Molets.  This  treatment  takes  advantage 
of  the  great  volatility  of  certain  substances,  in  which  the 
scents  of  plants  are  soluble,  especially  that  of  Petrol-ether, 
to  extract  perfumes  from  the  plants,  and  to  separate  them 
again  from  their  solvents  at  a  low  temperature.    Special 


VIOLET  PERFUME. 307 

niarliines  are  emplo\ed  to  keep  the  solvent  in  circulation 
antl  tluis  to  ensure  its  coniinfr  into  contact  with  the  flowers 
for  as  long  as  is  necessarw  l^his  solvent  is  then  evapor- 
ated into  special  reservoirs.  Evaporation  is  effected  b\- 
reduced  air  pressure,  without  anv  substantial  increase 
of  temperature,  and  the  solvent  is  again  condensed  in 
cooled  reservoirs  for  further  use.  Hv  this  process  it  is 
possible  to  use  up  the  fragrant  portion  of  the  plant  to 
greater  advantage  than  formerly.  The  product  thus 
gained,  when  treated  with  alcohol,  forms  a  highlv  con- 
centrated essence. 

As  it  requires  a  very  great  number  of  Violets  to 
produce  a  strongh-  scented  essence,  endeavours  have  long 
been  made  to  find  a  substitute  for  these  fiowers.  There- 
fore instead  of  Molets  the  "Violet-root"  was  generally, 
and  is  still,  emplo\ed  for  sachets.  Plin^'  informs  us  that 
pieces  of  the  root-stock  of  Iris,  peeled  and  dried,  were, 
in  Roman  times,  hung  round  the  necks  of  teething  children, 
as  is  very  frequenth'  done  now. 

There  was  some  uneasiness  among  the  \^iolet-growers 
in  Grasse  when  the  use  of  Jonon  began  to  spread.  TheA- 
thought  that  this  ^  _^_  .  discoverv  would  put 
an  end  to  their  ^">rT;/-o  ^  . -,  Molet  culture,  but 
the  reverse  was  /f-*>-'V  ^  ,  ^„  ^, ,.  ,^:  the  result.  For 
its       perfume        *^  ,   ,,«,-o,pii^     requires  an  ad- 

dition     of    the       <?^/^  natural     product 

to  fullv  develop     ey^*',  \«  C";     its  qualities.   And 

the  artificial  ^X'/^^JK'^^j^^t^  production  of  Jonon 
contributed  not  a  6  \^^  little  to  the  increased 

use  of  Molet  per-  Xitopiniiuw punctatum.    fume,     so     that    the 


308  SANDAL  WOOD.  

demand  for  the  natural  product  increased  also.  As  with 
the  \'iolet  perfume,  so  it  has  been  with  other  vegetable 
perfumes;  the  competition  of  the  artificial  products,  instead 
of  harming  them,    only  served   to   increase    their    output. 

In  Grasse,  too,  the  aroma  from  the  heavily-perfumed 
\ellow  Jonquil  (JVarcissusyouqtii'lla),  has,  until  quite  recent- 
\\\  been  extracted  in  cold  fat  bv  the  process  of  enfleurage; 
it  is  now  amongst  those  plants  treated  bv  Petrol-ether. 
Only  the  single-blossomed  Jonquil  is  grown  in  Grasse 
for  the  scent  factories. 

As  at  the  time  of  our  sojourn  in  Grasse  Jonquils 
were  already  getting  scarce,  the  work  with  fresh  flowers 
was  becoming  slack  in  the  factories.  Orange  -  flowers, 
Roses,  Heliotropes  and  Reseda  only  come  in  Ma^^  For 
this  reason  they  had  taken  the  Sandal-wood  in  hand. 
We  saw  large  piles  of  this  valuable  brown  wood  stacked 
in  the  store  houses.  It  is  \'er\  expensive,  for  it  is  like- 
wise much  treasured  in  its  East  Indian  home.  There 
they  manufacture  beautiful  carved  furniture,  especially 
costly  boxes,  out  of  this  wood.  For  its  fragrance  keeps 
off  insects  and  drives  away  even  the  all-destroying  white 
ants.  The  Buddhists  burn  great  quantities  of  Sandal-wood 
as  incense,  and  the  Sandal  trees  have  been  quite  exter- 
minated in  some  places.  In  the  factories  Sandal -wood 
oil  is  obtained  from  the  chopped  up  wood  by  distillation 
with  water.  The  oil  passes  out  with  the  steam  from  the 
retort  into  the  cooler,  whence  it  flows  with  the  water 
into  the  receiver.  From  twenty-five  kilogrammes  of  wood 
about  one  kilogramme  of  oil  is  extracted ;  this  is  conse- 
quently expensive  and  is  only  used  for  very  fine  perfumes. 


ORANCi:- FLOWER   \VAri:R. 309 

111  tlu'  inoiitli  ot  Ma\'  the  town  of  CTrasse  reeks  with 
tlie  overpoweriiiij;'  odour  of  Orange  blossoms.  From  two 
to  three  hunch'ed  tlionsand  kilogrammes  of  llowers  of  the 
bitter-fruited  Orange  tree  (Ci/n/s  Bii(aradia)  are  then 
used  in  the  factories  for  making  perfumes.  The  llowers 
smell  stronger  and  more  delicious  than  those  of  the  sweet- 
fruited  Orange  and  are  therefore  almost  exclusivelv 
emplo^•ed.  A  tree  from  twent\-  to  thirtA'  ^■ears  old  will 
\ield  from  lifteen  to  twent^'  kilogrammes  of  blossoms. 
V>\  distillation  a  hundred  kilogrammes  yields  about  forty 
kilogrammes  of  Orange-tiovyer  water,  and  a  hundred 
grammes  of  Orange-flower  oil,  ("Essence  de  Neroli")^ 
Their  scent  can  also  be  extracted  by  maceration  in  fat, 
and  the  Petrol-ether  process  is  also  used  with  these 
tlowers.  Orange-flower  oil  continues  to  be  dear  as  it 
onh'  exists  in  minute  t|uantities  in  the  tlowers.  The  intro- 
duction of  artitlcialh-  prepared  Neroli  oil  by  the  Leipzig 
lirm  of  Schimmel  and  Co.  does  not  appear  to  haye  affected 
the  manufacture  of  the  natural  product.  Orange- 
tlower  oil  came  into  fashion  about  the  ^-ear  1680  under 
the  patronage  of  the  Duchess  Flayio  Orsini,  .Princess 
Xeroli,  and  Orange-Hower  water  (Aqua  Naphae)  [also 
became  increasingh'  popular  as  a  toilet  recjuisite  as  well 
as  for  tlayouring  foods,  confectionery  and  drinks.  During 
our  sta\'  in  Grasse  they  w^ere  complaining  that,  owing  to 
oyer-production.  tlie  price  of  llowers  had  recently  been 
much  reduced.  Indeed  during  the  last  decade  a  strong 
tendencx'  to  speculate  has  possessed  the  inhabitants  of  the 
Riyiera.  The  rapidh'  increasing  demand  lor  Iresh  llowers 
had  impelled  manx-  land  owners  to  fell  their  Oliye  trees  and 

13 


310  ORANGE  FLOWER  OIL. 

plant  flowers  in  their  stead.  Now  the}'  often  hardl}'  know 
how  to  dispose  of  all  the  flowers.  Added  to  this,  the  high 
temperature  of  this  spring  had  caused  the  plants  to 
develop  so  rapidh'  that  at  the  markets  in  the  town  one 
could  load  oneself  with  large  bouquets  of  the  most 
beautiful  blossoms  for  a  nominal  price. 

Petitgrain  oil,  which  is  distilled  from  the  leaves,  twigs 
and  unripe  fruits  of  the  bitter-fruited  Orange,  is  naturallv 
cheaper  than  Neroli  oil.  It  is  often  used  to  adulterate 
Orange-flower  oil,  to  which  it  is  considerably  inferior  in 
delicac^'  of  scent.  The  perfume  extracted  from  the 
blossoms  of  the  sweet-fruited  Orange  is  distinguished  b}' 
special  qualities,  and  is  known  as  Neroli-Portugal  oil. 
But  I  learn  from  the  work  on  ethereal  oils  bv  E.  Guilden- 
meister  and  Fr.  Hoffmann  that  this  oil,  as  sold  in  the  trade, 
is  not  at  all  pure,  but  is  composed  of  a  mixture  of  vari- 
ous Orange  oils. 

The  Oranpfe  oil  which  is  extracted  from  the  fresh 
peel  of  ripe  fruits  of  the  sweet-fruited  orange  tree  is 
obtained  in  winter  time.  It  is  easy  to  prove  that  a  great 
deal  of  ethereal  oil  is  present  in  the  rind  of  an  orange. 
You  need  only  squeeze  the  peel  close  to  a  flame  when  the 
expressed  oil  will  ignite.  The  glands  in  the  rind  which 
contain  the  oil  are  so  large  that  they  can  be  seen  with 
the  naked  eve. 

The  oil  from  the  sweet-fruited  as  well  as  from  the 
bitter-fruited  orange  peel  is  made  use  of  in  perfumery. 
And  the  ethereal  oil  of  Bergamots,  Mandarins,  Limettes, 
Pampelmousse  and  Lemons  is  used  for  various  purposes. 
In    Nice     the^•    used    to     employ    an    instrument    called 


PERFUMES. 311 

'•Kceuile  a  piciuer"'  for  the  purpose  of  extracting  the  oil 
from  these  rinds.  This  is  a  bowl  witli  brass  points  against 
which  tlie\'  press  the  truit.  The  ciilti\ation  of  Agrumi 
for  tlie  sake  of  the  peel  has  almost  been  given  uj)  in  the 
South  of  France,  and  in  Europe  it  is  chieH\'  Sicih'  and 
South  Calabria  that  carrN"  on  this  industry.  There  the\' 
extract  the  ethereal  oil  from  the  rind  bv  pressing  it 
against  a  sponge,  or  b\-  rubbing  it  between  the  fingers 
and  allowing  the  sponge  to  absorb  the  oil  which  spurts 
out.  The  round  Bergamots  are  likewise  put  into  the 
"macchina"  which  bruises  their  rind  while  a  sponge  ab- 
sorbs the  oil.  The  rinds,  from  which  the  oil  has  been 
extracted,  are  salted  and  used  as  "'Salato".  The  juice 
of  the  fruit  pulp,  especialh'  that  of  the  lemons,  is  used 
for  various  purposes ;  and  lasth'  the  remainder  is  given 
to  the  cattle  for  food. 

^^'e  also  saw  in  Grasse  cupboards  containing 
wooden  frames  piled  one  on  the  top  of  the  other. 
These  had  not  sheets  of  glass,  but  wire  net  stret- 
ched over  them.  On  these  were  alternate  la^'ers  of 
flowers,  and  fat  in  threads  like  vermicelli.  Tlie  air 
in  the  cupboards  was  kept  in  gentle  motion  by 
bellows.  It  swept  over  the  huers  of  fat  and  deposited 
its  pertume  there. 

Other  arrangements  were  also  shown  us  for  lacili- 
tating  the  extraction  of  the  perfume.  We  saw  apparatus 
for  grinding  up  dried  portions  of  plants,  for  grating 
fragrant  wood,  and  reducing  hard  substances  to  powder. 
One  machine,  which  kept  in  motion  several  sieves  of 
different  mesh,  reeked  with  perfumes. 

13* 


312  PERFUMES. 


The  process  of  extracting  fragrance  from  plants  bv 
means  of  fat  can  also  be  applied,  on  a  small  scale,  to 
obtaining  the  finest  pomade  from  Howers  which  would 
perhaps  otherwise  fade  unused  in  the  garden.  All  that 
is  recjuired  is  the  purest  claritied  fat  spread  on  a  sheet 
of  glass,  and  a  good,  close-litting  box  to  lay  it  in.  The 
flowers  must  be  placed  on  the  fat  with  the  petals  turned 
downwards,  the  box  must  then  be  shut  and  the  flowers 
renewed  before  the^'  are  faded.  The  name  pomade,  or 
rather  pommade,  is  derived  from  "pomme",  apple, 
which  shows  that  at  one  time  apples  must  have  been 
used  in  the  manufacture  of  these  perfumed  fats.  Aro- 
matic spices,  preferabh'  cloves,  were  stuck  into  an  apple, 
and  alter  it  had  been  exposed  to  the  air  for  a  few 
days,  it  was  boiled  doun  in  fat.  If  the  fat  was  not 
thoroughly  perfumed  b\'  the  first  apple,  the  process  was 
repeated.  AIan\'  Roses  are  grown  round  about  Grasse 
for  the  perfume  factories.  These  are  not  the  Roses 
that  are  exported  in  winter  and  fill  the  flower  shops  of 
the  whole  of  Europe ;  but  Centifolia,  Damask  and  Musk 
roses.  The  Rose  ranks  next  to  Orange-blossom  amongst 
the  perfume-fielding  plants  of  the  Riviera,  and  the  Jas- 
mine is  next  in  importance.  The  Roses  are  picked  when 
just  about  to  open,  as  soon  as  the  dew  has  vanished. 
The  harvest  is  in  May  and  June.  In  Grasse  each  rose- 
stock  yields,  on  an  average,  two  to  three  hundred 
grammes  of  flowers,  but  from  five  to  six  thousand  kilo- 
grammes of  Roses  are  necessary  to  obtain  one  kilo- 
gramme of  Oil  of  Roses.  It  is  not  surprising  then  that 
one  kilogramme  of  this  oil  costs  over  a  thousand  francs. 


OIL  OF  ROSES. 


313 


\h 


Oil  ot  Roses  in  obtained  b\-  distilling  the  petals  in 
water  wlien  it  collects  gradually  on  the  surface.  In  spite 
of  the  fact  that  only  ver\'  minute  quantities 
of  the  oil  are  dissolved  in  the  water, 
this  is  sufficient  to  impart  to  it  a  strong 
perfume.  Most  of  the  Roses  at  Grasse 
are  used  for  making  Rose-pomade,  and 
are  therefore  macerated  in  fat. 
Whereas  Rose -pomade  preserves, 
almost  unchanged,  the  aroma  of 
fresh  Roses,  the  Oil  of  Roses  alters  a 
little.  From  the  pomade  they  extract, 
by  means  of  alcohol,  the  "Esprit  de 
Rose",  one  of  the  finest  scents  that 
exists.  There  is  hardl}-  a  perfume  in 
the  world  that  can  compete  in  popular 
favour  with  that  of  Roses,  and  he  who 
has  travelled  in  the  East  will  well  rem- 
ember the  perfume  of  Roses, 
combined  with  bad  smells,  in 
llie  sunny  streets.  Those  who  think 
that  they  bring  home  pure  Oil  of  Roses 
in  those  long,  narrow,  gold-ornamented 
phials  from  the  Eastern  Bazaars  where 
they  are  sold  cheap,  are  greath- 
deceived.  Oriental  Oil  of  Roses  is 
almost  always  adulterated,  generally  with 
Palma-rose  oil,  or  Indian  Geran- 
ium oil.  which  in  the  East  Indies 
is  distilled  from  the  Geranium  Grass, 


314  OIL   OF  ROSES. 


Andropogoji  Schoeuanthus.  The  Indian  distiller,  on  his 
part,  generalh'  adulterates  his  Palma  oil  with  another 
oil,  Coconut  oil.  It  would  therefore  be  better  to  fill 
\o\\x  scent  bottle  at  home  with  genuine  Oil  of  Roses. 
Roses  are  extensively  cultivated,  not  only  in  German^' 
but  also  in  England,  for  the  purpose  of  making  Oil  of 
Roses.  In  the  year  1884  the  brothers  Fritsche,  owners 
of  the  Leipzig  Firm  of  Schimmel  and  Co.,  who  are 
to  be  highh'  commended  for  their  ethereal  oils  and 
essences,  extracted  three  kilogrammes  of  Oil  of  Roses 
from  German  Roses  for  the  first  time.  The^'  have  laid 
out  extensive  Rose  plantations  at  Leipzig  and  these  now 
cover  a  surface  of  35  hectares.  I  take  this  account 
from  the  report,  which  the  above  mentioned  firm  publish 
annualh',  and  from  which  one  can  not  onh'  form  an 
idea  of  the  magnitude  of  the  business  done  in  this 
factory  but  also  gain  an  insight  into  the  rational  and 
scientific  management  of  this  enterprise.  Under  the 
auspices  of  this  firm  a  valuable  work  on  ethereal  oils 
by  E.  Gildenmeister  and  Fr.  Hoffmann  has  been  pub- 
lished, and  to  it  I  am  indebted  for  much  information. 
Close  to  the  Rose  fields  of  SchimmeTs  factory  are 
extensive  plantations  of  Reseda  and  Peppermint,  besides 
these  there  are  also  Tarragon,  Artemisia,  Lovage  and 
Angelica.  Bulgaria  is,  and  will  long  remain,  the  chief 
country  for  the  production  of  Oil  of  Roses,  and  it  alone 
is  able  to  supph'  nearh'  two  thousand  kilogrammes  of 
this  oil. 

Palma -rose  oil  does  not  smell  exclusively  of  Roses, 
its  perfume  is  more  like  a  mixture  of  Rose  and  Lemon. 


GERANIUM  Oil..  —  LEMON  PLANT.  315 

The  scent  of  (jeraniuin  oil  is,  on  the  contrar\',  ahnost  exactly 
like  that  of  Roses:  it  is  made  from  tlie  leaves  of  certain 
species  of  Pelarn-onium.  chiefh'  P.  odoratissiniwn,  capi- 
iatiim,  and  roscuni.  We  can  prove  this  for  ourselves  bv 
taking  a  tew  leaves  of  this  plant,  which  is  often  grown  with 
us  in  pots,  and  bruising  them  between  the  lingers.  The 
species  that  succeeds  best  on  the  Riviera  is  Pelargonium 
capitatum.  Its  cultivation  there  has  declined  recently 
owing  to  the  competition  of  Algiers.  The  plants  are 
gathered  trom  the  middle  of  x\ugust  to  the  middle  of 
September  and  delivered  at  the  factories  as  quickly  as 
possible.  The  firm  of  Schimmel  and  Co.  are  now  very 
successful  with  Rose-Geranium  oil.  They  distill  2,500 
kilogrammes  of  fresh  Roses  with  one  kilo  of  pure 
Geranium  oil  and  obtain  a  product  that  resembles  the 
Bulgarian  0\\  of  Roses  very  closely. 

In  the  gardens  of  the  Riviera  one  often  meets  with 
a  Verbena,  T'.  triphyUa  or  Lipia  citriodora,  which  is 
also  known  as  Citronelle  or  Lemon  plant.  This  beautiful 
shrub  ma^'  be  seen  in  the  gardens  on  the  Italian  Lakes 
and  its  fragrant  pannicles  of  violet-tinted  flowers  may  be 
examined  in  autumn.  If  its  leaves  are  rubbed  between 
the  fingers  the^-  diffuse  a  delicious  odour,  which  is  inter- 
mediate between  Lemon,  Melissa  and  V^erbena.  This 
shrub  comes  from  South  America,  and  is  grown  on  a 
large  scale  in  several  places  on  the  Riviera.  The  genuine 
\erbena  oil  which  is  distilled  from  its  leaves,  is  prized 
bv  manv  perfumers,  lliis  is  however  diflicult  to  obtain, 
as  Lemon-grass  oil  which  has  the  same  scent  and  is 
much  cheaper,  is  commonly  substituted  for  it.     This   oil 


316  CITRONELLE. 


is  obtained  from  grasses  of  the  genus  Andropogon,  whose 
species  are  remarkable  for  so  man\'  fragrant  oils.  Lemon- 
grass  oil  is  obtained  from  Andropogon  citrahis  which  is 
specially  cultivated  in  Ceylon  and  Singapore.  Andropogon 
Nardns,  yielding  the  Citronelle  oil  which  smells  like 
Melissa,  is  cultivated  on  a  still  more  extensive  scale.  This 
oil  is  increasingly  used  in  the  scenting  of  soaps,  and  is 
the  chief  ingredient  in  the  perfume  of  Hone^•-soaps.  We 
can  form  an  idfea  of  the  extent  of  the  production  of 
Citronelle  oil  when  we  realise  that  on  the  hill  slopes  of 
Ceylon  not  less  than  twenty  thousand  hectares  of  land 
is  planted  with  this  grass,  which  grows  a  yard  high. 
About  six  hundred  distilleries  are  at  work  and  produce 
annualh'  about  half  a  million  kilogrammes  of  Citronelle 
oil.  The  factory  of  Schimmel  and  Co,  make  their 
Geranium  oil  from  this. 

The  perfume  of  Reseda  is  extracted  by  the  process 
of  enfleurage  and  lately  the^•  have  been  using  Petrol- 
ether.  From  Thyme,  Sage,  Rosemar\',  Lavender  and 
Melissa  the  ethereal  oil  is  extracted  b\'  means  of  distil- 
lation. Thyme,  Rosemary  and  Lavender  are  ver^•  little 
cultivated  on  the  Riviera;  they  are  gathered  in  their 
natural  habitats  on  the  slopes  of  the  hills  where  Rosemarv^ 
and  Thyme  form  the  underwood.  Lavender  must  be  sought 
for  in  the  higher  regions  of  the  Maritime  Alps,  for  down 
on  the  coast  only  Lavandida  Stoechas  is  found,  and  this 
is  of  little  use  to  the  present  perfume  factories  as  it 
smells  much  more  like  Rosemary  than  Lavender.  To 
the  ancients  however  this  scent  must  have  been  particu- 
larly agreeable,  for  Pliny    and  Dioscorides   mention  only 


SPIKE   OIL.  317 


."^tocclias  and  no  other  species  of  Lavender.  Because  it 
smells  like  Aardiis  /lu/ica  it  was  named  J\'(irdi{s  Ilalica 
or  Pscudo-J^ariiiis,  and  in  Spain  it  is  still  honoured  bv 
the  name  of  "Romero  Santo"  or  Blessed  Rosemary.  There 
they  extract  from  it  an  etliereal  oil  for  household  pur- 
poses b}-  hanging  fresh  plants  upside  down  in  bottles, 
lirmly  closed  and  placed  in  the  sun.  A  mixture  of  oil 
and  water  collects  at  the  bottom  of  the  bottle,  and  this 
is  used  to  heal  breakings-out  on  the  skin,  to  wash  wounds 
and  to  stop  bleeding.  From  Lavandula  vera,  which 
grows  at  a  higher  elevation,  the  finer  Lavender  oil  is 
made,  and  out  of  the  Lavaiuhda  spica,  whicli  grows  at 
a  lower  altitude,  the  Spike  oil  is  extracted. 

In  earlier  times  they  used  to  call  all  Lavender  oils 
by  the  name  of  Spike  oil.  The  Abbess  Hildegarde  recom- 
mended them  for  making  e^e  lotions,  and  the  dried  flowers 
were  made  into  aromatic  pillows  for  the  healthy  as  well 
as  for  the  sick.  In  the  sixteenth  centur\-  no  cottage 
garden  was  without  Lavender.  The  small-leaved  species, 
Lavandula  ofjicinal/'s,  was  the  most  usualK-  met  with. 
At  this  time  it  was  a  common  custom  to  place  dried 
heads  of  Lavender  and  dried  petals  of  the  Bosa  Ccnti- 
foli'a  in  vases  in  alternate  huers  and  strew  salt  and 
spices  in  between.  This  mixture  was  called  "Potpourri", 
and  was  a  favourite  incense,  for  in  winter  it  was  put 
on  the  hot  stove  and  tilled  the  room  with  an  agreeable 
and  delicate  odour. 

One  day  on  the  road  to  Aga\-  some  women  were 
walking  in  front  of  us  carrying  on  their  heads  loads  of 
Thyme  which  they   had  gathered   on  the  hillsides  of  the 


318 STORING  SCENTS. 

Esterel  close  b\'.  The  wind  was  blowing  in  our  direction 
and  the  perfume  could  be  smelt  hundreds  of  paces  awav. 
Those  wild  plants  which  will  not  bear  transport  are 
generally  distilled  in  the  open,  immediately  after  gathering, 
in  an  apparatus  known  as  a  "Distillerie  ambulante"  which 
they  move  from  place  to  place.  This  is  usualh'  set  up 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  a  spring  or  brook  in  order  to 
provide  the  necessary  supph'  of  water  tor  the  cooler. 
A  great  cjuantity  of  Rosemar^'  oil  is  sent  from  the 
South  of  France  to  Cologne  to  be  used  there  in  the 
manufacture  of  Eau  de  Cologne.  Eau  de  Cologne  con- 
tains equal  quantities  of  Orange-  and  Lemon-peel-oil,  less 
Neroli  oil,  and  still  less  Bergamot  and  Rosemar\'  oil 
dissolved  in  85  per  cent  alcohol.  All  these  ingredients, 
even  though  mixed  according  to  the  best  prescriptions 
and  well  selected,  will  not  immediately  produce  good 
Eau  de  Cologne ;  for  the  fusion  of  the  scents  does 
not  take  place  for  some  time.  Data  resulting  from  prac- 
tical experience  have  been  collected  for  some  time,  but 
the  effects  of  storing  have  onh'  of  late  ^'ears  become  the 
subject  of  scientific  enquir^'.  The  simplest  example  is  a 
retail  brandv  which  is  made  bv  diluting  an  80  per  cent 
spirit  down  to  a  30  per  cent  spirit.  This  brandy,  when 
freshh'  mixed,  would  not  be  relished  hv  the  drinker, 
even  if  he  Avere  not  a  spoilt  connoisseur.  It  must  be  stored 
to  render  it  palatable.  It  is  well  known  that  good  wine 
gains  valuable  qualities  by  being  kept.  The  ingredients 
in  solution  are  working  chemically  on  each  other,  and 
they  appear  to  originate  new  combinations.  'Absolute 
stillness   is  necessary    for    this  process,    constant  shakings 


EAU  DE  COLOGNE. 


319 


Padiiia  Pai'Onio. 


impede  it;  indeed  it  appears  tliat  combinations  alread\- 
begun  can  be  destro^•ed  b\  movement  whether  tempor- 
ar\-  or  continuous.  Knap  is  of  tlie  opinion  that  tlie 
results  of  storinj 
on  processes 
Organic  Chemistry 
Combination. 
Substitution. 
Disintigrat- 
ion  and  so  on. 
Consequent!}' ' 
in  mixed  per- 
fumes also  changes  should 
take  place  during  storage,  so  that  the  different 
scents  may  be  effectualh-  blended.  The  origin  of  Eau 
de  Cologne  is  disputed,  and  yet  its  invention  may  cer- 
tainly be  attributed  to  Johann  Maria  Farina,  an  Italian 
from  Santa  Maria  Maggiore,  near  Domo  d'Ossola,  who 
in  the  beginning  of  the  eighteenth  centur\'  carried  on  a 
trade  in  perfumes  and  Colonial  wares  in  Cologne.  Not 
until  the  middle  of  the  same  centur\-  did  Eau  de  Cologne 
first  come  into  general  use  and  supplant  the  "Eau  de  la 
Reine  de  Hongrie"  or  Hungarian  Water.  This  was  made 
in  much  the  same  wa\"  but  contained  more  Rosemarj- 
oil,  besides  Oil  of  Roses  and  a  trace  of  Peppermint  oil. 
The  French,  who  held  the  Rhine  provinces  during  the 
Seven  Years'  War,  were  chiefU'  instrumental  in  spreading 
the  use  of  Eau   de  Cologne.  i^vj 

During  our  wanderings  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Grasse 
we  saw  a  great  many  Jasmine  plantations.  From  this  vi^e 


320 JASMINE. 

realised  the  importance  of  this  phmt  to  the  perfume  fac- 
tories. The  Jasmine  plantations  were  generally  laid  out 
in  terraces  on  the  hillsides  facing  south.  These  much- 
branched  shrubs,  about  six  feet  high,  with  opposite 
evergreen  leaves  produce  single  flowers,  and  are  known 
by  the  name  of  'yasminwn  grandijiorum.  This  species 
comes  from  the  East  Indies ;  the  perfume  of  their  flowers 
is  delicious.  They  are  fairly  large,  of  a  pure  white  on 
the  inside  and  slightly  tinged  with  red  on  the  outer  side. 
The  flowering  begins  in  Juh'  and  lasts  till  October.  A 
thousand  plants  will  ^■ield  about  flfty  kilogrammes  of 
flowers.  Their  perfume  is  extracted  bv  means  of  en- 
fleurage,  that  is  with  cold  fat.  The  cjuantity  of  scent- 
substance  which  they  contain  is  so  small  that  the  blossoms 
have  to  be  repeatedly  changed  on  the  same  layer  of  fat. 
The  flowers  continue  to  produce  scent  after  being  gathered. 
This  is  extracted  from  them  as  it  forms  bv  means  of 
cold  fat,  which  does  not  injure  the  blossoms.  Thus 
enfleurage  is  decidedly  advantageous  in  the  case  of 
Jasmine  flowers,  and  could  not  be  replaced  by  other 
processes.  From  the  Jasmine  pomade,  the  Extract  of 
Jasmine  is  obtained  by  means  of  the  finest  Spirits  of  Wine. 
The  most  valued  perfumes  for  the  handkerchief  contain 
this  extract.  They  also  make  a  "Huile  antique  au  Jasmin" 
by  the  process  already  referred  to  of  strewing  the  blossoms 
on  pieces  of  woollen  material  soaked  in  olive  oil  and  then 
pressing  out  the  oil.  This  kind  of  Jasmine  oil  is  very 
popular  in  France. 

The    flowers    of   the  Acacia  Farncsiana   (Fig.  p.  5) 
also  play  an  important  part  in  the  perfume  industry.  We 


pi:  R  FUMES.  321 


liad  alreach  had  an  opportunit\'  of  adiniriiiir  this  small 
tree  in  the  Mortohi  ( iardens.  AiiiVcXs^e  Acacia  JuirnrsnvKi 
is  cuhivated  oiih-  to  a  \er\'  Hniited  extent,  but  hirc^e 
plantations  ot  this  plant  are  to  be  found  in  Algeria.  The 
small  globular  dark-^'ellow  flower-heads,  the  "Cassie", 
are  gathered  from  September  to  December;  this  requires 
both  skill  and  practice  as  these  plants  are  ver\'  thorny. 
The  delicate  violet-like  odour  of  the  flowers  is  absorbed 
b\-  the  process  of  enlleurage,  or  extracted  bv  Petrol- 
ether,  The  essence  thus  obtained  is  of  great  importance 
in  the  preparation  of  '"Bouquets". 

Finalh'  we  must  not  forget  to  mention  the  Tuberose, 
Polyaiithcs  Tubcrosa.  This  bulbous  plant  belongs  to 
the  famih"  of  the  .Vmar\'llidaceae,  and  is  a  favourite 
on  our  llower  tables  and  in  bouquets  because  of  its 
beautiful  white  blossoms  and  powerful  fragrance.  Its 
home  is  in  Central  America,  but  as  a  rule  we  onh'  see 
the  double  flowered  varietv  which  smells  so  stronglv 
towards  evening  —  another  instance  of  the  wide-spread 
phenomenon  that  flowers  do  not  give  forth  the  same 
strength  of  j-jcrfume  at  all  times  of  the  da^•.  Who  lias 
not  noticed  that  the  Datura  and  Nicotiana,  the  Dame's 
Violet  (Hcsipen's  )natronalis)  and  the  Marvel  of  Peru  of 
our  gardens  have  scarceh'  an\-  perfume  during  the  day, 
while  in  the  evening  their  fragrance  is  all  pervading. 
On  the  other  hand  \\'atc'r  Lilies  {^Vviiip/iaca  alba).  Gourd 
flowers  (Cuciirbita pepo),  Bindweed  {Convolvulus  arvciisis), 
are  onh'  fragrant  during  the  day.  This  variation  is  of 
importance  to  the  plants  :  the\'  emit  perfume  h\  daA' 
or  b}'  night  according  as    the\-    require    diurnal    or    noct- 


322  PERFUMES. 


urnal  insects  to  carry  their  pollen.  A  large  number  of 
Tuberoses  is  required  to  saturate  the  fat  with  per- 
fume so  that  this  extract,  like  a  great  many  other  delicate 
perfumes,  is  very  expensive.  When  spread  out  on  layers 
of  cold  fat,  the  Tuberoses  continue  to  produce  scent-sub- 
stance; in  this  way  it  is  possible  to  obtain  about  twelve 
times  as  much  perfume  as  with  Petrol-ether,  which  kills 
the  flowers  at  once.  With  us  the  Lilac,  Syring-a  vulgaris^ 
might  be  used  instead  of  the  Tuberose  to  make  a  very 
similar  pomade  by  the  same  process. 

It  is  not  only  the  recognised  "perfumes"  of  plants 
that  are  used.  For  the  scent  of  cucumber  is  turned  to 
account  for  many  purposes.  An  essence  is  made  by 
distilHng  the  same  alcohol  several  times  with  freshh'  cut 
slices  of  cucumber.  With  this  essence  the  ointment 
known  as  Cold  Cream  is  scented,  and  this  gives  it  the 
refreshing  aroma  for  which   it  is  valued. 

I  must  not  omit  to  mention  that  an  ethereal  oil  is 
distilled  even  from  garlic.  Of  course  this  oil  is  not  used 
in  the  making  of  perfumes,  though  one  might  sometimes 
think  so  in  the  south  of  Europe  or  in  the  East,  but  it  is 
taken  as  a  vermifuge.  The  Arm  of  Schimmel  and  Co.  who 
prepare  this,  as  well  as  nearly  all  other  volatile  oils  now 
in  use,  recommend  garlic  oil,  too,  as  a  kitchen  condiment. 
We  may  form  an  idea  of  the  concentrated  smell  of  this 
delightful  oil  when  we  consider  that  out  ot  sixteen 
kilogrammes  of  garlic  only  ten  grammes  of  oil  are 
obtained! 

Solution  of  Ammonia,  the  so-called  Spirits  of 
Hartshorn,    and  Ammonium  Carbonate,    in  spite  of  their 


F/rilKREAL   OILS.  323 

inini^ciU  suK'U,  also  pla\-  a  not  iininijiortanl  part  in  the 
pcrfuine  tactory.  They  are  used  in  the  manufacture  of 
sineliiniT-salts,  and  the  odour  of  snuff  is  due  i)rincipall\- 
to  Ammonia,  Besides  this  snuffs  are  rendered  aromatic 
by  other  sweet- smelHng  constituents.  Acetic  acid,  too. 
is  employed  in  the  perfume  factor\',  and  its  property  of 
dissolvintr  ethereal  oils  is  made  use  of  to  prepare  per- 
tumed   vineijars. 

CHAPTER    XT. 

Ethereal  oils  act  as  poison  if  thc\-  are  taken  intern- 
ally in  too  large  doses,  or  continually  Hence  the  harmtul 
results  consetjuent  upon  the  abuse  of  man^-  litiueurs  are 
caused  not  only  b\-  the  alcohol  which  the\-  contain,  but 
also  by  the  volatile  oils  with  which  the^'  are  flavoured. 
Eau  de  Cologne  is  equalh'  dangerous  if  drunk.  It  is 
not  uncommon  for  a  doctor  to  discover  b\-  accident  that 
a  secret  habit,  on  the  part  of  his  lady  patients,  of  drinking 
Eau  de  Cologne,  is  the  cause  of  puzzling  symptoms. 
Volatile  oils  take  oxygen  from  the  air  and  thus  go  through 
a  process  of  oxydation.  Many  of  these  oils  oxydise  ver\- 
quickly  and  the  more  minutely  they  are  dispersed  in  the 
air  the  more  rapid  is  the  process.  Light  and  damp 
further  this  process,  which  gives  rise  to  gaseous  ozone 
in  the  air.  or  liquid  h^■drogen  superowde  which  is  ver\- 
similar  in  its  effects.  To  these  is  to  be  ascribed  the 
stimulating  effect  on  the  respiratory  organs  which  alco- 
holic solutions  of  volatile  oils  have  when  evaporated  in 
a  room.     This    effect  is  produced  especially  when   those 


324  ETHEREAL  OILS. 


volatile  oils,  which  chemists  class  as  Terpine.  are  dis- 
persed in  the  air,  because  thev  ox^'dise  the  most  rapidly. 
It  is  physiologically  interesting  to  test  the  susceptibility 
of  our  sense  of  smell  to  perfumes.  A  few  milligrammes 
of  musk  are  sufficient  to  scent  even  a  well-ventilated 
room  for  years.  We  smell  this  musk,  and  yet  there  can 
be  only  an  inlinitesmal  quantit}'  in  the  air  which  surrounds 
us.  Experiments  made  bv  Passv,  with  alcoholic  solutions 
of  strong  smelling  substances,  have  proved  that  the  five- 
hundred-thousandth  part  of  a  milligramme  of  Vanilla  is 
sufiicient  to  appreciably  perfume  a  litre  of  air.  The 
same  effect  is  obtained  by  five  thousandths  of  a  milligramme 
of  camphor:  five  miUionths  of  a  thousandth  part  of  a 
milligramme  of  artificial  musk  sufficed  to  be  perceived  by 
the  olfactory  nerves.  Expressed  in  figures  this  would 
be:  0.000,000,000,005  of  a  gramme:  and  yet  the  suscep- 
tibility of  our  organs  of  smell  is  considerably  inferior  to 
that  of  many  animals. 

In  their  principal  chemical  constituents  ethereal  oils 
show  no  great  complexit\'.  The  elements  carbon  and 
hydrogen  enter  into  them  all :  oxygen  is  generally  present 
in  larger  or  smaller  quantities  and  sometimes  nitrogen  or 
sulphur.  But  simple  as  this  may  seem  at  first  sight,  we 
find  it  to  be  more  complicated  when  a  closer  investigation 
is  made  into  the  constitution  of  these  substances.  We 
owe  to  the  works  of  the  chemist  Otto  Wallach,  of 
Gottingen,  a  further,  ^'et  not  complete,  acquaintance  of 
the  subject.  But  onl}'  those  who  are  versed  in  the  whole 
range  of  Chemistry  will  be  able  to  follow  the  scientific 
treatise  on  this  question. 


PERFUMES. 


325 


1    of 


CHAPTER  XII.  j^r^-^-a  «.w^ 

A  communication  irom  JLjons  ^jgjjiA" 

to  the  "Chemikerzeituniy"  of  U)02  states        ^0^ 
that  the  ^  earl\-  turnover  in  tiowers  and       ^        ^^^ 
etherial    oils    at  (irasse    is  thirt\'   millions   of         _   i^" 
francs.  This  sum  is  considered  bv  the 
initiated    to    be    over    estimated ; 
nevertheless    it    proves    that     the 
manufacture  of  chemical  scents  has  not  ^'et 
injured  that  of  the  natural   products.     Ac- 
cording- to  official   reports,    2,000,000  kilo- 
grammes of  Orange    flowers,    1,500,000 
kilogrammes    of    Roses,     1,200,000    of 
Jasmine,    400,000   of  Molets,    300,000 
of     Tuberoses,      100,000     of     "Cassie" 
(Mimosa),      60,000     of       5l^|^^-^  .-:      - 
Reseda    and    50,000    of  Jon-        ,;     '  "  ^)> 
quils,  besides  other  plants,  are 
annually  used  at  Grasse.  >;^^'!'^^^ij 

Besides  this  great  num-         ^ 
bers     of     workers    leave     Grasse 
everv  \'ear    for  the  moinitains  to 
distil  the  coveted  essences  from  wild  plants.    And 
yet  the  use  of  scent  has  much  decreased  in  com- 
parison with  former  years.    When   we  use  perfume 
now  it  is  in  moderation.     Onh-  in  hot  countries  is 
there    still    as    great  a    demand    as    ever    for    toilet 
scent.    L'hict   among  these  countries  is  the   Levant; 
but    the    ancients     far    exceeded    even    the    orientals    in 
their    use    of   scents,     ^^'hat  Plin\'  tells    us  about  Lucius 


^^ 


Passefitia 
hirsuta. 


326  PERFUMES. 


Plocius    is    characteristic    of    those    times.      This    Lucius 
Plocius,    whose   brother  Lucius  Plancus    had    twice   been 
Consul,     was    proscribed    bv    the    Triumvirate    and    fled. 
He  concealed  himself  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Salernum, 
where,  however,  the  perfume  he  diffused  betra^■ed  his  pres- 
ence.    He  was  put  to  death,  and  Plinv,  annoyed  by  the 
excessive  use  of  perfumes  so  prevalent  at  that  time,   re- 
lates   this    not    without    a    certain    satisfaction.      We    can 
hardh'  imagine  anyone  reeking    with    oils    and    unguents 
now-a-da^'s    as    was    often    the    case    in    ancient    Greece 
and    in    the    Levant.      We    have    a    decided    aversion    to 
greasy  hands    and  therefore  clean  them  as  soon  as  pos- 
sible.    We    still  tolerate  oil  and  pomatum    for    the    hair, 
but  these  things  are  being  replaced  b^'  alcoholic  extracts, 
whereas    the     ancients    anointed    themselves     exclusiveh' 
with  perfumed  oils.      The  iirst  liL[uid  scent    of    the    kind 
we  now  use  is  said  to  have  been  produced  hv  Mercutio 
Frangipani,    who    made    an    extract  with  strong  alcohol, 
from  a  powder  of  spices  and  musk  invented  by   his  an- 
cestors.    This    same    Frangipani  belonged    to    a    Roman 
noble  family,  which  in  the  twelfth  and  thirteenth  centuries 
had   distinguished    itself    in  the  feud  between   the   Guelfs 
and  Ghibellines.  That  the  weakness  for  perfuming  one's 
person  was  inherited  in  this  famih'  is  shown  b}'  the  fact 
that    in    France    a    descendant    of   Frangipani,    Marquis 
de  Frangipani,  Field  Marshal  under  Louis  XIII,  introduced 
a  kind  of  perfumed  glove,   known   as  "Gants  a  la  Fran- 
gipani". 

The    Greeks    learnt    from     the     orientals    to    anoint 
their    bodies    with    scented    oil.      Plinv    without    further 


OINTMENTS.  327 


cjuestion,  attributes  the  invention  of  sweet-smelling'  oint- 
ments to  the  Persians.  It  is  said  that  there  were  no  less 
than  fort\'  ointment  preparers  in  the  retinue  of  Darius, 
when  it  fell  into  the  hands  of  Alexander.  IMin\  tells  us 
that  amon<r  tlie  boot\-  taken  at  that  time  was  the  ointment 
chest,  adorned  with  gold,  pearls  and  precious  stones,  in 
which  Alexander  kept  the  works  of  I  lomer,  so  tliat.  as 
he  said,  the  most  priceless  work  of  the  human  mind  might 
repose  in  the  most  costly  case.  In  Greece  the  use 
of  sweet-scented  ointments  was  considered  effeminate:  the 
more  manh'  athlete  despised  it  and  rubbed  himself  in  the 
GA'mnasium  with  pure  oil. 

Theophrastus,  Plin^•  and  Dioscorides  relate  how  per- 
tumed  unguents  were  prepared  in  ancient  times.  The 
"aromata"  were  mixed  with  the  oils  and  heated  together. 
Theophrastus  sa\s.  in  the  third  century  B.  C,  that  the 
process  had  to  be  performed  under  water  to  prevent  the 
'"aromata"  from  burning.  The  oil  most  used  was  that 
of  the  Oliye.  strained  and  artificially  bleached,  and  ex- 
pressed from  unripe  fruits  so  as  to  be  as  colourless  as 
possible.  Besides  this  the  oil  from  sweet  and  bitter  al- 
monds, Sesame  oil.  Castor  oil  and  Oil  of  Ben  were  used. 
This  last  was  particularh'  valued  because  it  is  scentless 
and  does  not  easih'  turn  rancid.  It  would  be  used  now- 
a-days  for  hair  oil  were  it  not  that  it  has  practically 
disappeared  from  trade.  The  tree  from  which  the  Oil 
of  Ben  was  obtained  was  called  in  ancient  times  Balanos 
or  Myrobalanon  ("Ointment  acorn"').  It  is  the  J/or///o'a 
aptera,  a  plant  indigenous  to  Arabia  and  Egypt,  whose 
fruits,  the  Ben  nuts,  yield  the  oil  \)\  expression. 


328  OINTMENTS. 


Dioscorides,  in  his  "Materia  medica'',  a  work  pro- 
babh'  written  about  the  middle  of  the  hrst  centur^'  A.  D., 
warns  us  against  the  least  trace  of  water  remaining  in 
the  oil,  and  recommends  pouring  the  oil  several  times 
from  one  jar  into  another  after  these  have  been  smeared 
with  honey  and  salt.  The  salt  extracts  all  the  moisture 
from  the  oil.  Myrrh  and  other  Balsams,  Cardamoms, 
Calamus,  root-stock  of  Iris,  perfumed  flowers  and  fruits 
and  sweet  scented  herbs  were  used  to  give  their  '"aro- 
mata"  to  the  oil.  The  fact  that  animal  fat  could  be  im- 
pregnated with  perfume  was  also  known.  Rose  ointment 
seems  to  have  been  universalh'  used,  and  Dioscorides 
describes  its  preparation  also.  Gum  and  resin  were  added 
to  the  ointments  to  colour  them,  and  also,  as  was  said,  to 
flx  their  scent.  Many  unguents  were  coloured  with  "Dra- 
gons' blood",  the  blood-red  resin  of  the  Dragon  tree, 
(Dracaena  Draco),  or  with  Anchusa,  the  same  colouring 
matter  which  we  obtain  from  the  root  of  Anchusa  tijic- 
toria,  oiu'  Alkanet.  This  latter  was  also  recommended 
for  colouring  the  Rose  oil.  The  variety  of  unguents  be- 
came greater  and  greater.  One  single  ointment  would 
contain  a  large  number  of  ingredients.  The  Egyptian 
ointment  "Metopium"  was  made  from  bitter  almonds  with 
the  addition  of  "omphalium,  cardamomum,  juncum,  cala- 
mum,  mel,  vinum,  myrrham,  semen  balsami,  galbanum, 
resinam  terebintham".  As  far  as  the  meanings  of  these 
names  are  known  toda^'  this  ointment  therefore  contained, 
besides  the  oil  of  bitter  almonds,  the  oil  of  unripe  olives ; 
the  volatile  oils  of  Cardamom,  of  the  sweet-scented  An- 
dropogon    grass    and    of   Calamus;     honey;     wine;     the 


OINTMENTS.  329 

iiulsani  of  the  Xorth  African  tree,  Juihaiiiodcfidron  »iyrr/ui: 
"Balsam  seeds",  that  is  to  sa\-  the  pea-sized  fruits  of  the 
Arabian  tree  Bahcvuodciidroii  o-f/iadcnsr;  the  jrum-resin 
of  a  Persian  umbellate,  Kcrula  galhainllua\  and  lastK 
the  turpentine  of  the  Turpentine-Pistachias,  We  can  form 
some  conception  of  the  scent  of  this  ointment;  it  must 
have  smelt  principalh'  of  bitter  almonds  and  Balsam. 
These  ointments  were  obtained  from  many  different  places; 
from  Eg\pt,  Delos,  Mendesium,  Corinth,  Cilicia,  Rhodes, 
Cyprus,  and  later  from  Naples,  Capua  and  Praeneste. 
They  varied  constantly  according  to  taste  and  fashion. 
Some  of  these  ointments  were  ver^'  expensive,  and 
afforded  work  to  a  whole  armA'  of  preparers  and  vendors. 
In  the  shops  of  the  ointment-dealers  idlers  lounged  about. 
Shad\"  spots  were  chosen  for  these  shops  so  that  the 
ointments,  which  were  kept  in  jars  of  lead  or  stone,  might 
not  suffer  from  the  heat  of  the  sun.  The  stone,  which 
we  call  Alabaster,  was  much  worked  for  these  vessels, 
but  as  Rheinhold  Sigismund  seeks  to  prove  in  his  book 
on  "aromata'',  the  ancient  word  Alabastron  appears  to 
have  referred  more  to  the  shape  than  to  the  material  ot 
the  ointment  jars. 

The  abundant  information  given  us  by  Athenaeus 
shows  to  what  excess  perfumed  unguents  were  used  in 
Greece.  He  relates  that  the  S\'barites  of  Athens  anointed 
each  part  of  their  bod\'  \\ith  a  different  ointment.  Eg\ptian 
unguents  were  used  for  feet  and  thighs,  Plioenician  for 
jaws  and  cliest,  Sis\mbrion  unguents  for  the  arms,  Ama- 
racon  unguent  for  hair  and  CAebrows,  and  Serp\llos  unguent 
for    chin     and     neck.       Imagine    the    scent    of    a    human 


330  OINTMENTS.  

being  anointed  in  this  manner!  For  the  Amaracon  unguent 
smelt  of  Marjoram,  the  SerpyHos  unguent  of  Thyme,  the 
Sisymbrion  of  a  Mint,    the  Egyptian    and   Phoenician  of 
bitter  almonds  and  Balsam.   A  veritable  perfumer's  shop ! 
Athenaeus,  in  his  Symposium,  tells  us  further  that  Demet- 
rius  Phalereus    not    only  anointed    his   whole    bod}',    but 
also  dyed  his  hair  yellow  in  order  to  look  more  attractive. 
At    banquets    they    used   to    anoint    their    heads    so    that 
the  wine  should  not  affect  them ;    for    when  the  head  is 
dry,  so  said  Myronides,  the  fumes  ascend.    Hence,  also, 
the    use    of  wreaths   which    were    thought    to    insure    the 
wearer  against  intoxication  by  keeping  the  head  cool,  and 
to  prevent  headaches.   Possibly  the  Ivy  wreaths  used  in 
earher  times  might  have  served  this  purpose,  but  hardly 
the  later  ones  made  of  sweet-smelling  flowers.   For  these 
were  woven  of  roses,   lilies,  or  "violets"    (wallflowers   or 
stocks),  and  also  frequently  sprinkled  with  perfumed  un- 
guents by  attendants.  We  read  in  this  Symposium  of  Athen- 
aeus'   that    at    the  showy  processions  of  King  Antiochus 
Epiphanes  in  the  grove  of  Daphne  numerous  women  walked 
about  with  gold  vessels   from  which  they    sprinkled    the 
crowd  with  perfumes.      The    same  king,    who    was  later 
called  in  joke  Epimanes,  that  is  to  say  the  Lunatic,  used 
to  appear    in    the  public  baths  when    the    populace    was 
assembled    there,     and    anoint    himself   with    costly    oils. 
Once  someone  said  to  him :  —  "How  fortunate  you  are, 
O  King,  to  be  able  to  use  such  sweet-smelling  unguents, 
and    to    diffuse    such    a    pleasant    perfume    everywhere". 
Antiochus  made  no  reply,  but  next  day,  after  the  bath, 
he  had  a  large  jar  of  myrrh  poured  over  the  man's  head. 


PERFUMES.  331 


Others  now  wallowed  in  the  oil  wliich  had  been  spilt, 
manv  slipped  and  tell,  among  others  the  king,  which 
evoked  universal  iiilaritv.  This  Antiochus  must  have  been 
verA'  eccentric  indeed,  for  even  liis  gifts  were  peculiar  in 
the  extreme.  He  would  present  dice  to  one  man,  dates 
to  another,  or  gold  to  a  third. 

It  is  said  that  the  Lacedaemonians  drove  the  unguent- 
dealers  and  the  dNers  out  of  Sparta,  because  the  former 
spoilt  good  oil  and  the  latter  robbed  wool  of  its  original 
purity.  LACurgus  and  Socrates  protested  against  perfumed 
ointments,  but  with  as  little  effect  as  did  the  two  Cen- 
sors, Publius  Licinius  Crassus  and  Lucius  Julius  Caesar, 
later  in  Rome.  Plin\'  informs  us  that  they  issued  an  edict 
in  the  Aear  189  B,  C.  prohibiting  the  sale  of  "exotic" 
unguents. 

The  hair  and  clothes  of  Roman  ladies  were  per- 
fumed with  such  strong  scent  that,  according  to  Pliny, 
it  could  be  smelt  at  a  distance.  This  was  all  the  more 
foolish,  he  savs,  in  as  much  as  others  benefitted  more  bv 
this  expensive  luxurA-  than  did  those  who  paid  for  it. 
Plutarch  also  laments  this  extravagant  use  of  unguents 
He  relates  how,  at  a  banquet  given  to 
Nero  by  Salvius  Otho,  costlv  ungu- 
ents flowed  from  gold  and 
silver  pipes  on  all  sides  and 
cjuitc  drenched  the  guests. 
Juvenal,  in  his  Satires,  makes 
sport  of  Crispinus.  the  fav- 
ourite of  Domitian,  saving  that 
even  in  the  morninrr  he  diffused 


332 COENA  TRIMALCHIONIS. 

more  Cardamom  perfume  than  two  funeral  processions. 
Petronius,  in  his  "Coena  Trimalchionis",  gives  us  a  very 
realistic  description  of  Nero's  times,  dealing  also  with  the 
passion  for  perfumes  and  the  excessive  use  of  unguents. 
Though  the  colouring  ma^'  be  vivid  this  picture  is  only 
in  accordance  with  the  customs  then  prevalent  among  the 
showy  upstarts  of  those  times.  During  the  most  luxurious 
and  protracted  banquets,  at  which  the  rarest  dishes  were 
served  up  dressed  in  the  most  skilful  manner,  the  most 
varied  surprises  followed  one  another.  Suddenly  from 
the  ceiling  a  huge  hoop  is  let  down,  round  which  hang 
golden  wreaths  and  flasks  of  perfumed  essences.  These 
are  gifts  for  the  guests.  Towards  the  end  of  the  feast 
the  company  becomes  boisterous  and  the  drunken  Tri- 
malchio  conceives  the  idea  of  having  the  garments,  in 
which  he  wished  to  be  buried,  brought  in.  He  orders 
scented  water  to  be  fetched  and  a  sample  of  that  wine 
with  which  his  limbs  are  to  be  washed.  He  opens  a  flask 
of  Spikenard  essence  and  sprinkles  his  guests  with  it, 
expressing  the  hope  that  this  perfume  may  be  as  pleasant 
to  him  after  death  as  it  is  in  life.  Petronius  was  one  of  the 
favourite  authors  of  the  eighteenth  centur}' ;  and  about  the 
middle  of  this  century  —  as  I  understand  from  the  intro- 
duction to  LudwigFriedlander's  "Petronius"  —  the  "Coena 
Trimalchionis"  had  already  been  translated  six  times  into 
French.  At  the  court  of  Hanover,  in  1792,  it  was  even  perfor- 
med at  the  Carnival  by  royal  actors.  By  the  wash  of  Queen 
Sophia  Charlotte  of  Prussia  Leibnitz  had  to  describe  this 
performance  to  the  Princess  von  Hohenzollern-Hechingen, 
and  he  did  so  in  a  French  letter  on  February  25,   1702. 


EPIGRAM   OF    MARTIAL.  333 


From  a  biting'  epiirram  of  Martial  we  are  able  to 
gatlier  b\'  what  jKirticular  perfume,  among  other  pecu- 
liarities, a  popular  boon-com]>anion  might  be  known  at 
the  time  of  I  )omitian  —  towards  the  end  of  the  first 
centur\'   "A.   I). 

"The}'  tell  me  Cotilus  that  you're  a  beau : 
What  this  is,   Cotilus,  I  wish  to  know". 
'•A  beau  is  one,  who  with  the  nicest  care, 
In  parted  locks  divides  his  curling  liair; 
One  who  with  balm  and  cinnamon  smells  sweet, 
Whose  humming  lips  some  Spanish  air  repeat; 
Whose  naked  arms  are  smoothed  with  pumice  stone, 
And  tossed  about  with  traces  all  his  own : 
A  beau  is  one  who  takes  his  constant  seat. 
From  morn  to  evening  where  the  ladies  meet; 
And  ever,  on  some  sofa  hoverinef  near. 
Whispers  some  nothing  in  some  fair  one's  ear; 
Who  scribbles  thousand  billets-doux  a  day; 
Still  reads  and  scribbles,   reads,  and  sends  away: 
A  beau  is  one  who  shrinks,   if  nearh'  pressed 
B\'  the  coarse  garment  of  a  neighbour  guest; 
\\  ho  knows  who  tiirts  with  whom,  and  still  is  found 
At  each  good  table   in   successive  round : 
A  beau   is  one  —  none  better   knows  than  he 
A  race  horse,  and  his  noble  pedigree''. 
"Indeed  ?     Why,  Cotilus,    if  this  be  so. 
What  teasing,  trifling  thing  is  called  a  beau !" 
(Translation  In'  Elton). 
Xever  since  those  ancient  da\  s  have  perfumes  been 
so  extravaganth    used,    though    at  the    courts  of  France 

14 


334  COSMETICS. 


and  England  they  were  sometimes  freely  indulged  in,  as 
for  instance  in  France    at    the    time    of   the  Renascence, 
under  the  influence  of  the  Italian  artists  with  whom  Francis  I 
and  Catharine  de  Medicis  loved  to  surround  themselves. 
Then     people     revelled     in    perfumed    pastes,    pomades 
and  scented    gloves.     Cosmetics    came    into    fashion  and 
called  forth  quite  a  special  literature  on  the  subject.    The 
fact  that  Diana  of  Poitiers  retained  the  charm  of  youth 
to  a  great  age,  although  she  was  married  at  thirteen  to 
Louis  of  Breze,  Grand  Seneschal  of  Normandy,  was  ascribed 
to  cosmetics,  the  secret  of  which  Paracelsus  had  conlided 
to  her.    The  abuse  of  cosmetics  during  the  times  of  the 
Valois    still    continued    under    Henry  I\".      Queen  Maria 
de  Medicis  had  among  her  retinue  a  "Racommodeur  de 
visage",  and  she  herself,  as  well  as  all  her  ladies  of  honour, 
even  the  very  oldest,  were  quite  plastered  over  with  red 
and  white.     A  reaction  was  bound  to  follow   and  under 
Louis  XIII  beautiful  Anna  of  Austria  re-introduced   oint- 
ments to  the  favour  of  the  court.   Then  came  the  "Pates 
d'Amandes"  and  the  various  "Cremes"  and  "Rouges",  which 
lent  artificial  colour    to  ladies'   complexions.    Louis  XI\^ 
did  not  like   cosmetics;    so  their  use  declined  during  his 
reign,  but  only  to   receive  a  renewed  impulse  during  the 
"Regence".    At  this  time  specifics  flourished  which  were 
supposed    to    ensure  perpetual  youth    and    beauty.     The 
notorious  Cagliostro  received  from  the  equally  notorious 
Dubarry,    and    from    other  beauties,    no    mean    sums    for 
these  specifics.    In  spite  of  this  rouge  was  again  less  used 
under  Louis  XV,   and  "Rouge  de  Portugal  en  tasse"  was 
of  a  less  vivid  colour.    Yet  the  sale  of  rouge  was  still  so 


COSMETICS. 335. 

great  tliat  in  tlic  \  ear  IJSO  a  compam-  offered  the 
government  li\e  million  francs  for  the  monopoly  of  selling 
a  rouge  of  a  special  ciualit\ .  Even  purple  paint  was 
tried  in  the  gardens  of  the  Palais  Ro^'al.  and  created  a 
nine  da\s'  wonder  in  Paris.  Towards  the  end  of  the 
centur\-,  under  the  influence  of  Marie  Antoinette,  these 
vivid  colours  vanished  from  the  faces  of  the  ladies,  and 
tlie  taste  for  strong  scents  disappeared  at  the  same  time; 
now  tlie  ideal  became  one  of  tender  melanclioh'  and 
modesty. 

Thus  cosmetics  and  perfumery  accjuired  that  refined 
tone  which  the}'  still  retain  today.  Under  the  Empress 
Josephine  who,  as  a  Creole,  loved  strong  perfumes,  there 
was  a  passing  revival  of  tlie  older  style.  Napoleon  I 
himself  used  onh'  Eau  de  Cologne  which  he  sprinkled 
over  his  head  and  shoulders  ever\'  morninp". 

Since  the  sixteenth  centur^•  French  taste  in  perfumes 
had  had  great  influence  among  other  nations;  in  the 
seventeenth  century  it  became  supreme,  as  did  French 
fashions. 

It  was  France  and  England  principalh'  who  supplied 
the  world  with  their  perfumes.  Only  Eau  de  Cologne 
succeeded  in  surpassing  these  and  attaining  a  world-wide 
repute.  Germany  has  lately  begun  to  take  her  place  in 
the  front  rank,  if  not  for  "bouquets",  at  least  for  unmixed 
perfumes.  The  Leipzig  products  in  this  branch  have 
succeeded  be\ond  all  expectations:  and  German^■  is  well 
to  the  front  with  her  chemical  products,  which  now  play 
such  an  important  part  in  perfumer^^  She  also  principally 
supplies  the  world    with  those  antiseptics  which  prevent 

14* 


336  COSMETICS. 


putrefaction  and  decay  and  check  the  spread  of  noxious 
germs.  As  cleanliness  increases,  the  use  of  cosmetics 
declines;  for  these  are  incompatible  with  that  clean- 
liness upon  which  bodily  health  and  beauty  of  com- 
plexion depend. 

Under  the  Valois,  when  strong  perfumes  were  in 
high  fayour,  it  was  not  usual,  even  at  court,  to  pay  any 
attention  to  personal  cleanliness.  A  book  published  in 
1644  entitled  "Les  lois  de  la  galanterie  francaise",  deals 
with  the  "Luxe  de  proprete"  which  was  then  coming 
into  yogue,  and  which  consisted  in  washing  your  hands 
daily  and  your  face  almost  as  often  ! 

The  mountains  were  reflecting  light  and  warmth  from 
all  sides  on  the  flower  plantations  of  Grasse.  It  was  hot 
in  the  town ;  thick  clouds  of  fine  dust  rose  A\ith  each 
breath  of  wind,  and  the  smell  of  sandalwood  in  the  streets 
was  oppressive ;  we  suddenly  became  wear}'  of  wandering 
and  returned  to  the  north. 


FIFTH  JOURNEY. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Oince  the  beginning  of  the  year  unusually  mild 
weather  had  prevailed  all  over  central  Europe,  and  many 
plants  in  the  Rhine  valley  wore  quite  a  spring-like  appear- 
ance in  the  earh'  days  of  March.  The  drooping  twigs 
of  the  Willows  were  already  clothed  in  tender  green. 
The  Cornel  (Cornus  mas)  was  decked  with  its  yellowish 
flowers,  and  Crocuses,  Snowdrops,  Daffodils  and  Winter 
Aconites  (Erantliis  hiemalis)  brightened  the  garden 
borders.  With  spring  so  far  advanced  and  promising, 
it  was  difficult  to  decide  on  leaving  home ;  and  on  the 
other  side  of  the  Alps  we  almost  regretted  our  decision. 
For  the  trees  were  still  bare,  and  only  clumps  of  Prim- 
roses and  white  Crocuses  held  forth  a  promise  of  warmer 
days.  The  whole  winter  had  been  exceptionalh'  mild 
and     sunny     in    Southern    Europe ;     but    the    vegetation 


338  JOURNEY   SOUTH.  

showed  no  sign  of  life  yet.  It  was  awaiting  the  moment, 
fixed  by  long  heredity,  when  it  should  reawaken  to  life 
and  activity.  It  was  different  in  the  north;  there  the 
low  temperature  of  winter  had  affected  the  plants  and 
induced  them  to  sprout  early.  For  frost  sets  up  chemical 
processes  in  the  plant  which  stimulate  this  activity.  It 
is  this  which  in  the  North  is  onh-  too  often  the  cause 
of  the  premature  sprouting  of  our  plants,  after  which 
late  frosts  or  snow-falls  destroy-  the  shoots  and  buds 
which  had  been  so  carefulh'  protected  through  the  winter 
by  their  bud-scales.  Experiments  prove  that  certain 
chemical  stimulants  have  the  same  effect  on  plants  as 
frost.  The  Danish  botanist,  W.  Johannsen,  demonstrated 
this  in  the  case  of  ether  vapour,  and  many  market 
gardeners  are  now  apphing  the  process  to  fruit  growing. 
The  plants  are  subjected  to  the  ether  vapour  in  special 
boxes  for  about  4(S  hours.  In  many  cases,  especially 
with  the  Elder,  the  most  surprising  results  are  obtained. 

As  in  the  plain  of  Lombardy,  so  at  Genoa,  the 
deciduous  trees  were  all  bare,  and  not  until  we  reached 
Nervi  was  I  able  to  forget  the  winter  and  rejoice  that 
I  had  decided  to  travel  southward. 

It  was  late  in  the  evening  when  I  arrived  at  Nervi. 
The  surrounding  objects  could  no  longer  be  distinguished, 
but  the  silhouettes  of  the  Palms  against  the  star-lit  sky, 
and  the  perfumes  which  were  wafted  to  us  in  the  carriage, 
proved  that  we  had  been  suddenly  transported  into  a 
different  climate. 

Golden  sunbeams  streaming  into  the  room  through 
the    openings    in    the    shutters    awoke    me    next   morning 


NERVI. 339 

in  the  Hotel  Eden.  Throwing  wide  the  windows,  I  was 
enchanted  by  the  sublime  outlook  over  land  and  sea. 
For,  though  I  have  many  times  before  beheld  this  scene, 
it  never  fails  to  make  an  impression  on  me  and  stir  my 
inmost  soul.  How  glorious  is  the  world!  And  \et  how 
dark  can  be  the  shadows  that  brood  over  it !  Below 
me  the  garden  was  already  in  its  spring  splendour,  and 
the  whole  earth  was  resplendent  in  festal  attire ;  and 
be\'ond  stretched  the  endless,  sapphire-blue  sea.  Here 
was  a  profusion  of  colours :  there  a  profusion  of  light. 
Amono-  the  dark  -  grreen  Palms  and  Oranp'e  trees  and 
silvery- grey  OUves,  gay  Roses  gleamed.  The  bright 
Camellia  bushes,  in  the  garden  across  the  road,  bore 
such  numbers  of  blossoms  that  the  place  seemed 
sprinkled  with  purple. 

We  hasten  down  to  the  sea  onto  the  splendid  parade 
of  which  Nervi  is  justly  proud.  The  waves  still  dash 
as  ot  old  against  those  rocks  on  which  I  had  dreamt 
away  so  many  hours  in  bv-gone  years:  the  old  Saracen 
tower  still  keeps  watch  over  the  coast ;  and  in  the  east 
lies  the  picturesque  promontory  of  Portofino,  bathed 
in  blue  and  flecked  with  gleaming  white  hamlets  sunning 
themselves  on  its  slopes. 

We,  too,  have  come  here  to  sun  ourselves.  We 
have  been  pining  so  long  for  more  warmth,  more  light 
and  more  colour. 

Very  fair  is  this  bay  of  Nervi  with  its  fringe  of  ever- 
green gardens,  its  background  of  steep  and  loftv  moun- 
tains, and  the  clear-cut  promontorv  of  Portofino  standing 
out  so  proudly  into  the  sea. 


340 NERVI. 

The  marine  parade  at  Nervi  was  widened  a  few  years 
ago  for  the  invahds  who  frequent  it,  and  an  iron  balus- 
trade erected.  This  is  certainly  an  improvement.  But 
I  miss  the  old  grev  wall  which  harmonised  so  well,  both 
in  form  and  colour,  with  its  surroundings.  Many  will  rejoice 
that  thev  can  now  reach  the  rocks  easily  by  stone  steps 
leading  down  to  the  sea  from  the  parade.  But  one  is  no 
longer  so  secluded  as  in  former  years,  when  access  to  the 
rocks  was  more  difficult.  There  are  still,  however,  many 
unfrequented  nooks,  where  one  may  be  out  of  sight  of 
the  parade,  with  only  the  blue  sea  in  front,  lianked  by 
the  ridge  of  Portofino  and  the  chain  of  snowy  Alps. 
Here  the  sea  becomes,  as  it  were,  a  companion  to  whom 
one  may  confide  one's  joys  and  sorrows,  for  in  its  ever- 
changing  moods  it  seems  to  share  the  feelings  of  one's 
heart.  How  often  do  we  see  it  sad,  wrathful  or  agitated, 
and  then  again,  gentle  and  beaming  with  inward  bliss, 
this  ever-changing  sea!  Now  it  lies  peacefully  in  its  basin, 
its  ripples  caressing  the  rocks;  and  then  it  hurls  itself 
against  the  shore,  as  though  challenging  the  solid  earth 
to  open  combat.  How  gloomy  and  terrible  is  this  mighty 
element  when  it  rages  blindlv  'midst  the  howling  of  the 
wind,  dashing  its  waters  up  towards  the  clouds,  as  though 
threatening  the  vault  of  heaven;  or  when  blood-red  re- 
flections tinge  its  crests,  and  deep  chasms  open  between 
its  billows.  Man  turns  away  in  terror  and  rejoices  to  feel 
the  solid  earth  under  his  feet.  With  the  feelings  of  a 
child  he  calls  her  Mother,  for  can  he  not  trust  himself  to 
her  with  entire  confidence  ?  It  is  seldom  that  she  opens 
her  chasms  to  engulf  the  children  she  has  borne. 


PLINY.  —  THE^ARTH. 341 

On  the  insecure  vessels  which  ventured  into  the  open 
sea  in  ancient    times  man  was  mucli   more   at  tlie  mercv 
of  tlu'  waves  than  now.   And  we  can  understand  the  leelings 
wliich  prompted   Plin\-  to  write  as  he  did  in  praise  of  tlie 
earth.  "'Rightly  do  we  call  thee  Mother,  O  Earth,  for  thou 
overwhelmest  us  with  benefits.    As  the  Heavens  belong  to 
the  Gods,  so  art  thou  ours.     Thou   takest    us  under  thy 
care  from  our  birth,  providest  for  our  wants,   retainest  us 
under  th\'  protection,  and,   when  the  rest  of  Nature    for- 
sakes us,  thou  receivest  us  back  into  th\^  maternal  bosom. 
Blessed  be  thou,    holy  benefactress,    doubh-   blessed,    tor 
thou  permittest  us  to  share  in  thy  sacredness.    For  thou 
bearest  our  memorials  and  inscriptions,   and  dost  perpet- 
uate   our    names  far  bevond  our  short  span  of  life.   Water 
falls  upon  thee  as  rain  or  hardened  into  hail ;   it  washes 
up  in  waves  and  rushes  back  in  mad  torrents.  The  air  con- 
denses into  clouds  which  burst  in  storms  over  thee.    But 
thou,  O  Earth,  remainest  ever  kind  and  indulgent.    Ever 
ready  to   minister    unto    mortals,    thou    permittest    untold 
wealth  to  be  wrested    from    thee  or  often  sejuanderest  it 
upon  us  unasked.  How  man\'  are  the  perfumes  which  thou 
diffusest;    what  delicacies    thou    providest  and  what  am- 
brosial draughts !    How  rich  art  thou  in  form  and  colour  ! 
What  we  entrust  to  thee  thou  gi\est  us  back  with  interest. 
How    many  creatures  dost  thou  nourish  to  be  of  service 
to  us!"    Carried  away  b}-  his  unbounded   admiration  for 
the   nnmilicent  benefactress,  Pliny  goes  on  to  say  that  the 
earth  herself  produces  poisons  onU-  out  of  s^-mpathy   for 
men,  for  she  would  not  have  those  who  are  wear\-  of  life 
endure  a  painful  death  hv  starvation.    She  therefore  \ields 


342  MICHELET  AT  NERVI. 

secret  juices,  which,  flowing  easily  over  the  lips,  will  put 
an  end  to  life  without  disfiguring  the  body  and  without 
the  shedding  of  blood,  or  any  suffering  beyond  great  thirst. 

To  the  Orientals  the  sea  is  still  "The  Night  ol 
Abysses".  A  feeling  of  terror  is  also  the  dominating  note 
in  the  descriptions  of  the  sea  which  J.  Michelet  wrote  in 
the  middle  of  the  last  century.  His  book  "La  Mer",  which 
he  dedicated  to  the  sea,  was  as  much  read  in  its  time 
as  were  the  other  works  of  the  great  French  historian 
and  philosopher.  The  sight  of  a  sea-storm  arouses  terror 
in  Michelet,  and  it  seems  to  him  as  though  all  Nature 
were  participating  in  this  feeling.  He  sees  even  the  trees 
straining  away  from  the  sea  to  avoid  destruction  bv  the 
annihilating  wind  which  blows  with  irresistible  force  across 
the  measureless  plain  of  waters.  Michelet  does  not  hear 
in  the  turmoil  of  the  waves  those  soothing  harmonies 
which  appeal  to  the  soul  and  have  power  to  soften  sorrow. 
He  hears  in  it  only  the  eternal  menace  of  coming  storms. 

About  the  middle  of  last  century  Michelet  spent  six 
months  in  Nervi.  He  considered  this  ba^^  one  of  the  most 
sheltered  and  most  beautiful  in  the  world.  One  dav  he 
hurries  down  to  the  sea  to  witness  a  rising  storm.  There 
is  no  level  beach  here,  onh'  a  small  path  on  the  dark 
rocks  bv  the  sea.  This  path  runs  up  and  down,  often 
vertically  over  the  water,  at  some  height.  The  objects 
round  can  hardlv  be  discerned  because  of  the  sprav  from 
the  waves,  and  whirlwinds  draw  the  thick  veil  ever  closer. 
What  can  be  seen  is  full  of  terror.  Rough  shattered 
walls  of  rock,  peaks,  sharp  ridges  and  sudden  rifts, 
all  compel  the  angry  waves  to  leap  on  high  with  incred- 


NERVI. 


343 


ible  energy  and 
infernal  turmoil. 
The  rockv  coast 
receives  the  impac 
of  the  thundering 
waves     detiantly, 
shattering  them  and 
churning  them 
to  foam.     There 
is    a    wild     roaring     an 
raging,  thundering  and  shriek- 
ing,   which    makes    one    wish 
to  stop  one's  ears;  and  terrified, 
one  shrinks  into  a  recess  of  the 
wall    to    avoid    being    carried 
the   furious  waves. 

The  sight  of   a   storm 
elates    me,    for  it  seems    as 
though    Nature    were    inspire 
At    such    times    the    tlioughts 
feelings    of   every    da\'    life 
and   I  seem  to  be  removed  b 
the  realms  of  realit\-. 

CHAPTER  II. 

^'onder  watch-tower  still  stand- 
ing on  the  shore  at  Nervi  reminds  us  that  security 
has  not  ahva\s  reigned  upon  this  coast.    Even  at  the 
beginning  of  last  centur\',  serious  dangers  threatened  the 
traveller.  Petit  Radel.  ••L'hirurgienmajor  du  roi",  travelled 


Phillyrea 
anguftifolia. 


344  GENOA  TO  SPEZIA. 

in  1812  from  Lerici  to  Genoa  in  a  boat.  lie  tells  us  that  he 
chose  the  sea  route  because  of  the  fatigue  entailed  by  the 
land  journey.  But  he  had  reason  to  regret  his  choice  later; 
not  because  he  suffered  from  sea -sickness,  but  because 
of  the  dangers  to  which  he  found  himself  exposed.  For 
he  learnt  during  the  voyage  that  Algerian  freebooters 
and  renegades  were  in  the  habit  of  King  in  wait  in  the 
deep  recesses  of  this  coast  and  falling  upon  vessels  suddenly 
as  they  rounded  some  headland.  The  sea  journey  from 
Spezia  to  Genoa  occupied  from  twent^^-four  to  thirty  hours, 
and  those  who  reached  Genoa  without  mishap  considered 
themselves  lucky  indeed. 

It  is  difficult  for  us  now,  when  the  express  train 
covers  the  distance  between  Genoa  and  Spezia  in  two 
and  a  half  hours,  to  imagine  in  what  a  condition  the  means 
of  communication  were  formerh'  along  the  Ligurian  coast. 
Two  Swedish  noblemen,  who  travelled  in  Italy  in 
1758,  describe  their  experiences  on  this  part  of  the  coast 
in  the  "Neue  Nachrichten  oder  Anmerkungen  iiber  Italien 
und  iiber  die  Italiener",  a  German  translation  of  which 
was  published  in  Leipzig  in  17(>6  by  "Bernhard  Christoph 
Breitkopf  e^  Sohn".  They  had  engaged  a  vessel  at 
Leghorn  for  themselves  and  their  servants.  It  had  been 
stipulated  that  the  Padrone  should  take  no  other  passengers. 
But  in  spite  of  this  they  found,  when  they  came  to  em- 
bark, that  tlie  vessel  was  not  only  laden  with  goods  but 
crowded  with  other  passengers  — ■  Moors,  sailors,  and 
a  Dominican  accompanied  b\'  a  doubtful  looking  lady. 
A  storm  compelled  them  to  seek  shelter  in  the  harbour 
of  Portoiino,    and  there  they  had  to  spend  their  Christ- 


GENOA  TO  SPEZIA.  345 


mas  holidii\s.  Since  the  I'adrone  seemed  to  think  the 
weather  still  unpropitious,  and  time  was  precious,  one  of 
the  noblemen  decided  to  walk  to  Genoa,  following'  roads 
that  were  in  some  places  no  better  than  goat  tracks. 
And  ACt  the  \'ia  Aurelia  had  once  led  over  the  moun- 
tain of  Porto-luio  and  further  along  the  coast  to  Genoa. 
But  it  apparently  existed  no  longer.  It  was  Napoleon  I 
who  undertook  to  make  a  road  on  the  eastern  Riviera 
as  he  had  alread\'  done  on  the  western,  generalh'  follow- 
ing the  track  of  the  old  Roman  Road.  This  was  at  the 
time  of  the  French  occupation  of  (jenoa,  \\hich  lasted 
till  IS  14.  The  plans  for  the  road  were  not,  however, 
all  carried  out.  For  in  a  "Manuel  du  \"oA'ageur  en  Italie", 
published  in  Milan  1818.  we  are  told  that  between  Genoa 
and  Lucca  there  was  onh-  a  path  which  followed  the  shore, 
or  ran  along  the  slopes  of  the  mountain,  and  the  various 
portions  of  the  path  were  not  connected,  so  that  it  was 
almost  useless.  It  was  not  until  the  middle  of  last  cen- 
tury that  stage-coaches  began  to  run  on  the  road  which 
was  then  completed.  These  were  soon  taken  advantage 
of  hv  strangers. 

Those  who  travelled  along  this  stretch  of  coast  on 
these  footpaths  were  enthusiastic  about  their  beautA,  the 
luxuriance  of  the  vegetation,  the  profusion  of  golden  fruit 
on  the  Orange  trees  and  the  spicv  perfume  of  the  ever- 
green shrubs.  But  the  town  of  Xervi,  it  seems,  created 
a  different  impression  on  travellers.  The  stage  coach 
rattled  for  so  long  between  tlie  endless  rows  of  houses 
that  an  Italian  Abbe  explained  to  his  friend,  Otto  Speyer, 
who  published  '"Bilder  Italienischer  Landschaft''  in    1859, 


346 NERVI. 

that  the  place  was  called  Nervi  "Per  die  da  ai  nervi"  J 
—   because  it  gets  on  one's  nerves  ! 

Nervi  is  particularly  well  sheltered  from  the  north, 
west  and  east,  so  that  practicalh'  only  southerly  winds 
reach  it.  The  parade,  which  is  further  protected  from 
the  north  by  high  garden  walls,  is  free  from  dust,  and 
affords  for  invalids  a  shelter  which  is  exceptionally  good 
even  for  the  Riviera.  Other  visitors  to  Nervi.  who  come 
merely  for  rest  and  change,  complain  of  the  limited 
number  of  walks  round  the  place.  And  there  is  cer- 
tainly no  great  variety,  for  even  the  ascent  to  the  church 
of  St.  Ilario,  beautiful  at  it  is,  opens  up  no  new  views. 
The  panorama  is  still  shut  in  to  the  west,  north  and  east 
by  the  same  high  mountains  which  can  be  seen  from  the 
shore.  The  high  road  is  certainly  less  dust\'  than  those 
of  the  western  Riviera,  but  not  attractive  to  pedestrians 
after  long  drought.  Thus  we  must  fall  back  upon  the 
shore  whose  rocks  we  never  tire  of  visiting.  We  love  to 
linger  here  till  evening,  when  the  sun  begins  to  sink 
behind  the  Apennines  beyond  Genoa,  and  the  headland 
of  Portolino  glows  purple  in  its  light,  when  every  little 
hamlet  on  its  slopes  is  touched  with  fire  and  reflects 
long  streaks  of  gold  across  the  sea.  This  is  the  hour  of 
Titian  colouring,  when  all  things  are  bathed  in  rich  gold, 
and  seem  rather  to  illuminate  the  sky  than  to  receive 
light  from  it  —  the  hour  which  awakens  in  the  slumber- 
ing soul  of  the  artist  harmonies  of  colour  that  rouse  him 
to  achievements  he  is  himself  surprised  at. 

Adolf  Stahr  and  Fanny  Lewald  have  sat  here  on 
the  shore,  enchanted  by  the  splendour  of  the  scene  before 


NERVI  IN  1858.  347 


them,  lioth  triuellcrs  liad  come  here  b^'  "Vcttnrino"  in 
October  185(S.  and  went  to  tlic  \"ilhi  (jropallo.  Tliev 
wandered  about  its  lar<re  estate  charmed  b\-  the  luxuri- 
ance ot"  the  southern  N'egetation.  Then  the\'  seated  them- 
selves near  a  "picturesque  and  loft\-  pavilion,  in  a  nook  in 
the  rocks  close  to  the  sea,  where  a  small  half-shattered 
boat,  l}ing  in  the  angle  of  a  wall,  close  to  the  ruins  of 
an  old  watch-tower,  afforded  a  comfortable  resting  place". 
Here  they  dreamt  awav  "some  truh'  enjoyable  hours,  to 
be  counted  among  the  most  blissful  of  our  journe\-  in 
this  southern  region  so  highly  favoured  bv  heaven"'.  At 
their  feet  "the  sea,  glimmering  and  shimmering  in  the 
hot  midday  sun,  sang  its  lullaby".  Ever\thing  around 
them  seemed  to  be  slumbering.  "Iridescent  lizards  sunned 
their  graceful  bodies  as  the}-  slept  among  the  perfumed 
herbs  on  [the  old  walls  of  the  tower".  In  these  happy 
musings  it  seemed  to  them  '*as  though  thev  were  in  com- 
munion with  the  great  Mother  of  all  Beings,  who  takes 
back  into  her  all-embracing  bosom  each  of  the  million 
children  she  has  borne;  ever  modellinp-  and  remodellinp- 
the  material  of  their  organisms  into  new  shapes  and  forms 
till  the   end  of  time." 

Adolf  Stahr  could  still  call  the  grounds  of  the  Hotel 
Gropallo,  now  so  much  fret[uented  bv  visitors,  "a  hea- 
venly solitude  of  Nature".  As  late  as  1865  Nervi  is 
barely  alluded  to  in  the  third  edition  of  Baedeker's 
"Northern  Italy".  In  this  Guide  the  first  inns  mentioned 
on  the  road  between  Genoa  and  Spezia  are  at  Chiavari. 
It  took  eleven  hours  to  traverse  this  distance  in  the  stage 
coach.    Nervi  was  more  fully  described  in  the  guidebooks 


348 CLIMATE  OF  NERVI. 

of   the    early    seventies,    when    the   present  Grand    Hotel 
was  opened  as  the  Pension  Anglaise. 

CHAPTER  III. 

The  Lemon  trees,  growing  without  any  protection, 
are  a  better  testimony  to  the  mildness  of  the  climate  of 
Nervi  than  all  the  statistics  given  in  the  guide  books. 
In  this  respect  Nervi  is  little  inferior  to  the  most  favoured 
spots  on  the  Riviera  di  Ponente;  on  the  other  hand  it 
has  half  again  as  many  rainy  da^'s  in  the  winter  as  they 
have.  This  can  at  once  be  seen  by  the  vegetation,  for 
the  Camellias,  which  find  the  Riviera  di  Ponente  too  dry, 
grow  luxuriantly  here.  The  same  applies  to  the  Azaleas 
and  Gardenias  for  they  also  require  a  certain  amount  of 
moisture  in  the  air. 

The  cultivation  of  perfumed  flowers  has  increased  as 
much  in  Nervi  as  it  has  on  the  Riviera  di  Ponente.  The 
Nervi  carnations  are  especially  esteemed  and  are  sent 
to  the  North  under  the  name  of  Genoese  Carnations. 

When  wandering  in  spring  among  the  Olive  groves 
and  gardens  adjoining  the  high  road  we  notice  a  perfume 
like  that  of  the  Sweet  Pea,  the  "Pois  de  Senteur", 
(Lathy rus  odoratus).  This  scent  comes  from  the  Broad 
Bean  (Vicia  Faba),  which  is  much  grown  all  along  the 
Riviera.  The  seeds  are  eaten  here  unripe  and  raw,  when 
thev  taste  sweet  like  unripe  green  peas.  In  many  districts 
of  Germany  the  broad  bean  goes  by  the  contemptuous 
name  of  "Saubohne"  (Sow  bean).  And  yet  this  plant 
deserves  to  be  treated  with  more  respect,  for  it  is  one 
of  the  most  ancient  of  cultivated  plants,    so    old  that  its 


BROAD   BEAN. 


349 


origin  is  not  known.  Its  cultivation  dates  from  pre- 
historic times.  Certain  kinds  of  broad  beans  were  used, 
even  in  ancient  times,  as  food  lor  cattle;  and  from  others 
meal  was  made  which  was  often  mixed  with  the  Hour 
ot  cereals.  The  bean  has  played  an  important  part  in 
mythology.  The  seeds  were  an  emblem  of  death  because 
the  black  spots  on  the  white  flowers  were  interpreted  as 

signs  of  mourning.  I  lence 
the  bean   came  to  be 
eaten  at  funeral  feasts. 
Pythagoras  forbade  his 
disciples    to     eat     them 
because,     as    Plinv    tells 
us,     he     considered    them 
A  Ij  indigestible, 

l"    and  it  was  said 
that  they  made 
men      dull     and 
caused    sleep- 
lessness. On  the 
road    to    Elusis 


350  BROAD  BEAN. 


stood  a  temple  dedicated  to  the  Bean-God,  Kyamites. 
At  the  festival  of  the  Lemurs  —  the  wandering  spirits 
of  wicked  mortals  —  it  was  the  custom  to  throw  black 
beans  over  one's  head  to  protect  oneself  and  one's  relations 
from  the  persecution  of  these  wraiths.  Soup  prepared  from 
the  meal  of  broad  beans  was  offered  to  various  Deities. 
French  beans  were  offered  to  them  at  the  time  of  the 
Bean  Feast,  the  Calendae  Fabariae,  which  was  celebrated 
in  June.  In  lawsuits  white  beans  were  used  to  signify 
acquittal,  and  black  ones  for  condemnation  of  the  accused. 
Broad  beans  have  been  found  in  Egypt,  in  a  tomb  of 
the  Twelfth  Dynasty,  which  reigned  about  2,000  B.  C. 
Schliemann  also  dug  up  beans  at  Tro^'. 

None  of  the  customs  of  antiquit^'  relating  to  the 
bean  can  possibly  have  applied  to  our  Scarlet  Runner 
(Phaseolus  vulgaris),  since  this  onh'  reached  us  after 
the  discovery  of  America.  For  this  reason  the  old  name 
"Bohne''  only  applied  in  the  German  language  to  the 
broad  bean,  and  the  name  "Buffbohne"  was  used  when 
it  became  necessary  to  distinguish  it  from  the  new  American 
"Runner''.  Among  the  Greek  peasantr^'  the  broad  bean 
is  still  the  commonest  article  of  food.  The  meal  pre- 
pared from  this  bean  was  recently  much  advertised. 
For  bean  flour  is,  next  to  lentil  flour,  the  principal 
ingredient  of  "Revalenta  Arabica'',  which  was  introduced 
from  North  America  and  sold  at  a  high  price  as  an 
invalid  food  and  remedy  for  all  sorts  of  complaints. 
The  name  was  formed  by  inverting  the  first  two 
letters  of  Erva  Lenta,  really  Ervuni  lens,  the  name  of 
the  Lentil. 


INULA.  —  SMILAX.  351 


Tlie  pliinl  which  irrows  in  siicli  masses  below  the 
marine  parade  at  Xervi,  witli  tufts  of  dark  green  leaves 
sprouting  even  from  last  \ear's  dried  up  inflorescences, 
is  Inula  viscosa  (Fig.  p.  239).  It  is  a  weed  wliich  cannot 
be  overlooked  as  it  intrudes  everywhere.  I'he  Ligurians 
call  it  "Nasca"  and  attribute  various  healing  properties 
to  it.  The  leaves,  when  bruised,  emit  a  strong  aromatic 
odour.  B\-  this  smell  and  the  stickiness  of  all  its  parts 
we  recognise  it  as  the  real  "Alant".  The  peasants  use 
the  leaves  principalh'  as  a  remed\'  for  viper-bite.  In 
many  districts  Inula  is  put  into  wine  to  improve  its 
keeping  properties.  On  the  rocks  and  walls  here  we 
also  see  the  lovelv,  silver\--gre}',  bushy  Cineraria  niari- 
tima,  (Fig.  p.  '^l).  The  large  handsome  pinnate-lobed 
leaves  owe  their  silver\'  appearance  to  their  thick  hairy 
covering.  Cineraria  produces  bright  yellow  tlower-heads 
in  the  summer.  The  plant  is  much  used  in  our  own 
gardens  for  forming   a  light  border  to  gay    tlow^er  beds. 

Man\-  different  plants  are  overgrown  by  the  Smilax 
aspera,  (Fig.  p.  387)  on  the  coast  at  Nervi.  Its  berries 
are  generally  green  in  the  spring,  but  in  particularly 
warm  and  sunny  spots  some  of  them  are  already  turning 
red.  Occasionally  the  Smilax  will  climb  to  tlie  top  of 
a  high  tree  and  festoon  it  with  evergreen  garlands.  It 
clings  \er\  closely  to  other  plants,  and  this  may  have 
given  rise  to  the  legend  that  the  Nymph  Smilax  was 
changed  into  this  climber  when  she  died  ot  love  for  the 
\outh  Crocos. 

Pines  and  Pittosporum  stretch  out  towards  the  sea 
above    the    high    garden    walls   which  border   the  marine 


PORTOFINO. 


parade,  and  IvV'  trails  over  them.  These  plants  are  not 
injured  bv  the  salt  sprav.  But  man^^  other  trees  are  so 
much  injured  b^'  it  that  the^'  appear  to  be  shorn  off  at 
the  level  of  the  wall.  Many  cheerful  villas  and  summer- 
houses  are  seen  from  the  shore  gleaming  amongst  the 
dark  foliage  of  the  gardens.  They  add  life  and  interest 
to  the  scene.  Beyond  the  Hotel  Eden  is  the  \^illa  Cle- 
mentine, now  a  Convalescent  Home  for  patients  of  small 
means.  The  invalids  in  this  home,  founded  and  suppor- 
ted by  Gratin  Graben,  are  also  nursed  by  her  under  the 
name  of  Sister  Selma.  Thus  does  this  philanthropic  in- 
stitution fulfil  its  noble  mission! 

CHAPTER  IV. 

On  a  clear,  sunny  morning  in  the  beginning  of  March 
we  decided  upon  an  excursion  to  the  ridge  of  Porto- 
fino.  Taking  the  train  to  Camogli  we  then  proceeded  to 
Ruta  by  the  beautiful  road  which  commands  ever  widen- 
ing views  over  the  Gulf  of  Genoa.  At  Ruta  we  clam- 
bered up  the  path  leading  south  along  the  ridge  of  the 
promontor^^  Here  the  view  suddenly  extends  to  the  far 
distance  embracing  both  the  bays  which  the  Monte  di 
Portofino  divides.  Towards  the  west  the  luxuriant  green 
coast  stretches  away  in  gentle  curves  closely  hemmed  in 
by  the  Apennines.  There  appears  to  be  but  one  town 
on  the  shore  between  us  and  Genoa.  Beyond  lies  tlie 
Riviera  di  Ponente  where  the  snowy  tops  of  the  Maritime 
Alps  fioat  in  the  green-blue  sky.  To  the  east  one  bay 
succeeds  another  fringing  the  shore.  Here  the  Apennines 
are  bolder,  rising  higher  and  higher,  ridge  above  ridge, 


MONTE  PI  PORTOFINO.      353 

and  ciihninatiiio-  in  l()t"l\-  suniinits  sjirinklcd  with  fresh 
snow.  In  tlie  niistx'  distance  be\ond  vS]iezia  rise  the  rug'ged 
peaks  ot  tlie   Apuanian  .\lps,  still  shrouded   in   white. 

.\t   tlie  northern   end  of   the    proinontorx,    on    wliich 
\\e  now  were,    nature    still    wore  a  rather  wintr\-   aspect. 
Most    of   the    shrubs    and    trees    were    bare.     ^V  few  Ar- 
butus (Fig-,  p.  vV),    Tree  Heaths  (Fi«-.  p.  173),  and  Ever- 
green  Oaks    (Fig.  p.  3()3),    reminded   us  that  we  were  in 
the  south.    I  was  fortunate  enough  on  this  expedition  to 
enjcn'  the  compan\'  of  n\v  colleague  Professor  Otto  Penzig 
of    (lenoa,    to  whom  \\e  owe  an   illustrated    flora    of  the 
Riviera.  (Flore  coloriee   du  Littoral  mediterrancen).     He 
of  course    knows    all  the  plants  here,    recalling    some    to 
m\'    memor\'    and    giving    me    information    about    others. 
Unfortunateh'    there    was    so    little    as  \'et  in  tiower  that 
we  saw  scarceh'  an\thing  except  Primroses  and  Crocuses. 
The  grev  shrub  growing  in  great  c|uantities  on  the  slopes 
here  and  showing  only  last  year's  withered  inflorescences, 
is    Jlelichrysiun    aiio-iistifoliuni.      It  smells    just  as  strong 
as  the  //.  Stocchas  which  we  found  on  the  Cap  d'  Antibes, 
and  the  foliage  of  the  two  plants  is  alike.  The  sole  distinc- 
tion lies  in  the  withered  inflorescence.  Whenever  we  tread 
on  this  plant  a  waft  of  perfume  rises. 

We  reached  the  summit  of  the  mountain  without 
realising  the  distance  we  had  traversed.  It  must  have 
been  an  hour  and  a  half  since  we  left  Camogli.  Our  gaze 
now  ranges  free  over  a  wide  expanse,  but  ever  returns 
to  the  soft  blue  summits  of  the  Apennines,  the  distant 
snow  of  the  Alps  and  the  sunlit  sea.  The  semaphore  on 
the  top  of  the  hill  is  now  falling  to  pieces.    A  new  sig- 


354 SAN  FRUTTUOSO. 

nal  station  has  been  built  a  little  lower  down.  The  ridge 
slopes  steeply  down  to  the  south.  We  followed  it  to 
reach  the  old  Abbey  of  San  Fruttuoso  which  lies  on  the 
shore  in  a  secluded  inlet.  In  order  to  find  our  bearings 
we  consult  the  map.  A  group  of  rocks,  the  "pietre  strette", 
lying  to  the  south-east,  indicates  the  direction  which  we 
must  take.  Through  these  rocks  runs  the  foot-path 
which  then  divides.  The  turn  to  the  left  leads  to  Porto- 
fino,  that  to  the  right  goes  down  to  San  Fruttuoso.  There 
is  a  sign-post  here,  so  that  ^'0u  cannot  mistake  the  path. 
Soon  a  few  of  the  houses  of  San  Fruttuoso  appear,  white 
among  the  dark  green  foliage,  down  b^'  the  bosom  of 
the  azure  sea.  This  isolated  spot  is  generalh-  reached 
from  the  sea:  but  to  miss  the  approach  by  land  is  to 
lose  the  most  favourable  impression  of  the  place.  P"or  the 
path,  as  you  descend  from  the  heights,  is  incomparably 
beautiful  and  discloses  a  variety  of  ravishing  prospects. 
Moreover  one  is  surrounded  all  along  b^'  the  most  luxuri- 
ant "Macchia",  and,  early  though  it  is  in  spring,  we  revel 
in  the  exuberance  of  the  Mediterranean  vegetation.  The 
Arbutus  (Fig.  p.  37)  is  particularh'  abundant  on  this  slope 
and  reaches  a  considerable  size.  Next  come  the  Ilex  Oak 
(Fig.  p.  363)  and  the  evergreen  Buckthorn  {Rkammis  Ala- 
ternus,  Fig.  p.  367).  The  Tree  Heath,  now  in  full  flower, 
shows  white,  and  exhales  its  pleasant  perfume.  The 
Juniper  (^.  Oxycedrus,  Fig.  p.  245)  also  grows  plenti- 
fully on  this  mountain  side,  not  onA'  in  its  shrubby  form, 
but  sometimes  rising  above  the  other  vegetation  as  a  tree. 
We  are  astonished  to  see  it  so  finely  developed.  Broad 
and  branching  from  the  base  it  resembles  an  Arbor  Vitae. 


MAQULS    AT    PORTOFINO. 


35; 


or  else  it  shoots      . ;, 

up  slender  like  a  L}  - 
press,  with  bare  stem  and  pyramidal 
outline.  Even  our  common  Juniper 
(J.  coniniiDiis)  is  capable,  under  favour- 
able circumstances,  of  becoming  arbor- 
escent; but  this  seldom  happens.  The 
Leguminous  shrub  with  yellow  tiowers 
which  covers  much  ground  here  and  there,  is  (Joroin/la 
£merus,  a  plant  common  on  the  eastern  Riviera.  It  may 
easily  be  distinguished  from  other  yellow-flowered  shrubs 
of  the  same  famih'  b\'  its  imparipinnate  leaves  and  by  the 
inflorescence  which  is  usuallv  a  three-tlowered  peduncle. 
Coronilla  Emcrus  differs  also  from  its  relatives  of  the 
Maquis  in  being  unarmed.  Almost  as  common  on  the 
eastern  Riviera  is  another  yellow-flowered  Leguminous 
plant,  Cytisus  irijlorus  (Fig.  p.  131).  This  shrub  is  un- 
armed like  the  Coronilla  just  described:  but  it  is  twice 
as  tall.      It    flowers    nuich    later,    and    has    trifoliate,    not 


356  ROPE -MAKING. 


pinnate,  leaves.  We  walked  on  among  the  familiar  growths 
which  we  like  so  well:  Rosemary  (Fig.  p.  3/1),  Cistus  (Fig. 
p.  83),  the  thorny  Calycotome  (Fig.  p.  61),  the  Evergreen 
Rose  (J^osa  senipervireiis),  Lentiscus  (Fig.  p.  349),  Loni- 
cera,  the  climbing  Asparagus  and  Smilax.  Lower  down  the 
mountain  Bramble  begins  to  form  impenetrable  thickets. 
In  this  climate  it  keeps  all  its  leaves  through  the  winter, 
and  thus  looks  green  at  all  seasons  of  the  year.  Anipe- 
lodesmos  tcnax,  a  remarkably  tall  grass,  with  last  A'ear's 
inflorescence  rising  from  the  thick  tufts,  is  common  through- 
out the  whole  Maquis  in  this  spot.  It  reminds  us  of 
Gyneriuni  argeuieu)}!^  the  Pampas  grass  which  adorns 
our  gardens.  In  fact  the  two  genera  are  allied.  ;Ampe- 
lodesmos  is  so  called  from  its  ancient  use  in  tying  up 
vines.  It  is  worthy  of  note  that  this  grass  occurs  on  the 
eastern  Riviera  only  in  a  \tx\  few  places  for  the  most 
part  projecting  into  the  sea,  such  as  Monte  di  Porto- 
lino,  Portovenere,  and  the  Island  of  Palmaria  in  the  Gulf 
of  Spezia.  In  San  Fruttuoso  this  grass  is  the  object  of 
a  special  industry.  Ropes  of  great  strength  are  made 
from  the  leaves.  These  are  first  dried  in  the  sun,  then 
soaked  in  water  and  twisted  together  in  a  primitive  fashion 
without  further  preparation.  The  fishermen  on  this  coast 
make  use  of  these  ropes  to  drag  their  nets  to  land,  and 
they  stand  the  strain  perfectly. 

A  fisherman  came  half  way  up  the  hill  and  offered 
us  his  boat  for  the  sail  to  Portofino.  We  agreed  to  his 
proposal  and  he  walked  back  with  us.  He  was  a  well 
built  youth  with  an  intelligent  expression,  and  may  have 
been  about  twenty  years  old.      His  knowledge  of  plants 


A  BOTANICAL  FISHERMAN. 357 

lillecl  nie  \\\l]\  astonishnunU.  Aiul  l*rofcssor  I'enzig,  wlio 
published  in  1S<>7  a  "I-'lora  po]-)olare  Ligure",  and  who 
lias  collected  the  popular  Lii^urian  names  ol  jilants.  had 
onh'  to  mention  an\  shrub  or  tlower  of  the  district  when 
the  \'ounii^  man  i^ointed  it  out.  Hut  occasionalh'  he  would 
mereh-  refer  to  a  given  plant  as  "mala  herba",  accom- 
pa^^•ing  the  remark  with  a  gesture  indicating  aversion. 
These  primitive  men  are  much  nearer  to  Nature  than 
we  are:  the^■  have  lived  trom  ^•outh  up  in  the  open  air. 
and  their  minds  are  stored  with  practical  intormation. 
Thev  have  a  much  more  lively  interest  in  the  natural 
objects  which  surround  them  than  our  educated  people, 
whose  knowledge  is  ma,inh-  derived  from  text  books. 
Professor  Penzig  has  invariabh-  found  among  these  natives 
a  similar  acquaintance  with  plants.  Thus  it  had  not  escaped 
the  notice  of  our  companion  that  the  Evergreen  Buckthorn 
(Rha)uniis  alatn'inis)  does  not  in  all  situations  bear  similar 
leaves.  He  explained  to  us  that  this  shrub,  when  growing 
higher  up  on  the  mountain,  has  small  leaves  with  serrate 
edge,  but  deeper  down  in  the  valley  the  leaves  are  broader 
with  entire  margin  :  the  former  variet^-  they  call  "'Sconno 
selvatico",  the  latter  "Sconno  domestico". 

Suddenlw  at  the  turning  in  the  path,  there  appeared 
in  front  of  us  the  unjiretentious  church  of  San  Fruttuoso. 
W  e  now  tollowed  a  sunk  path  on  whose  banks  were 
stretched  out  the  green  ropes  twisted  from  grass.  Many 
of  these  ropes  lay  coiled  up  rcad\'  for  use.  Then  we 
passed  through  an  arched  passage  between  high  stone 
houses,  left  the  old  Abbe\-  behind,  and  turned  into  the 
primitive   Osteria,  the   onl\-  one   in   the  place. 

15 


358 BIRD  CATCHING. 

Here  we  seated  ourselves  on  a  small  terrace  over- 
looking the  sea,  and  ordered  a  frugal  meal  of  eggs  and 
iish.  The^'  brought  in  also  a  "Giardinetto''.  A  dog,  a  cat 
and  a  fowl  joined  our  party  and  took  care  that  not  a 
single  scrap  from  the  table  should  be  wasted. 

We  were  particularly  interested  in  this  fowl,  for  it 
was  the  first  bird  that  we  had  set  e^'es  on  since  we  came 
to  the  promontory  of  Portofino.  Professor  Penzig,  who 
for  some  time  past  has  been  President  of  the  Genoese 
Society  for  the  Protection  of  Animals,  has  told  me  what 
difficulties  the  Societ^'  has  had  to  contend  with  there. 
Above  all  the  priesthood  has  no  sympathy  with  their 
aims,  and  p-ives  no  assistance  whatever.  This  state  of 
things  is  worst  on  the  southern  slopes  of  the  Alps. 
There  the  slaughter  of  small  birds  is  carried  on  so  ruth- 
lessh"  that  only  a  small  portion  of  the  birds  migrating 
from  the  North  reach  Italy.  And  here  a  legion  of  "Caccia- 
tori"  lies  in  wait  for  them.  Professor  Penzig  owns  a  small 
property  in  the  Val  Camonica,  in  the  Province  of  Brescia, 
to  the  north  of  Lago  d'Iseo,  and  everA-  summer  he  wit- 
nesses this  annual  barbarit\'.  At  this  season  there  are  at 
least  200  "Roccoli"  in  full  activit^'  in  this  one  vallew 
These  are  small  gardens  specialh'  designed  for  bird  catch- 
ing, and  planted  with  Elder,  Rowan  and  other  trees 
and  shrubs  whose  conspicuous  berries  attract  the  birds 
from  a  distance.  Decoy  birds,  deprived  of  their  e^'esight 
and  imprisoned  cages,  are  concealed  in  the  foliage. 
These  prisoners  sing,  little  suspecting  that  their  melody 
is  luring  their  fellows  to  destruction.  The  whole  place 
is  enclosed  by  nets,    two  rising  side  by  side  like  a  wall 


BIRD    CAIXMIINC;. 


359 


1.  The  meshes  of  tlie 
ets  are  much  smaller 
)se  of  the  outer  ones: 
;  middle  of  this  traj:). 
ed  in  a  hut,  sits  the 
;1  of  Creation,  man, 
e  a  spider  on  the 
watch  for  his  pre^•. 
When  a  tlock  of 
?ar\'  and  hungry  birds- 
f-passage  have  settled 
down  in  the  attrac- 
tive garden,  the  fowl- 
er startles  them  with 
loud  shouts  and  tlings  out  from  the  hut 
a  noisv  instrument  called  a  "Diavolo". 
i  The  territied  birds  llv  up  obliqueh*  and 
\^'"  thus  strike  the  inner  net  with  narrower 
meshes;  these  are  driven  bv  the  pressure  through  the 
wider  meshes  of  the  outer  net.  In  this  way  each 
bird  is  caught  in  a  sort  of  bag,  and  the  proprietor  of 
the  "Roccolo"  walks  at  his  leisure  from  one  prisoner  to 
the  next,  twisting  their  necks.  Professor  Penzig  has  been 
able  to  examine  the  daily  register  of  one  of  these  bird- 
catchers;  the  number  of  birds  caught  by  this  one  man 
averaged  3,427  per  year  for  the  ten  ^•cars  1<S92  to  1901. 
We  can  from  this  realise  how  millions  upon  millions 
of  migratory  birds  are  thus  destroyed.  They  fetch 
four  centimes  each,  and  find  their  wa\'  to  the  Italian 
markets.      Is    it    not    distressin<»-    to     think    that    we    care 


i 


360  SAN  FRUTTUOSO. 

for  our  songsters,  and  protect  them  during  the  nesting 
season  by  our  laws,  only  that  the  ItaHan  gourmand 
ma^'  use  them  to  flavour  his  polenta?  We  must 
frankly  admit  that  in  the  cultivated  circles  of  Itah'  more 
and  more  voices  are  raised  each  year  in  favour  of  severer 
measures  for  the  preservation  of  wild  birds.  Alay  these 
voices  soon  succeed  in  making  themselves  heard !  I  have 
noticed  with  great  satisfaction  that  the  number  of 
birds  has  increased  in  the  Olive  groves  of  San  Remo 
and  Ospedaletti  the  last  few  ^'ears.  The  Municipalities 
have  restricted  the  ruthless  shooting  in  order  to  gain 
the  favour  of  the  visitors. 

CHAPTER  V. 

The  hamlet  of  San  Fruttuoso  consists  of  only  a  few 
houses  crowded  close  together  on  the  steep  slope.  On 
a  rock  in  their  midst  rises  a  square  watch  tower  now 
used  as  a  dwelling.  Above  the  village  the  hill  rises 
steeply,  clothed  first  with  silvery  grey  Olives,  higher  up 
with  dark  evergreen  Maquis,  and  fringed  on  the  sky- 
line by  Umbrella  Pines.  On  both  sides  of  the  bay  the 
rocks  fall  abrupth-  into  the  sea  as  though  to  shut  this 
spot  off  from  the  rest  of  the  world  for  ever.  Only  to 
the  south  can  the  eve  range  over  the  blue  sea  and  lose 
itself  in  the  distant  sky  which  over-arches  the  high 
mountains.  Here  could  one  indeed  live  in  the  present 
day  as  an  anchorite,  "the  world  forgetting,  by  the  world 
forgot",  and  then  be  laid  to  rest  beside  the  ancient 
Dorias,  —  for  in  this  lonely  place  the  Dorias  of  Genoa 
were    buried    in    the    thirteenth    and  fourteenth  centuries. 


LEGEND   OF  ST.   FRUCTUOSUS.  361 


An  old  IccTcnd  tells  us  that  two  disciples  of  Fructuo- 
siis.  the  priests  (Tiustino  and  Procopio,  put  out  to  sea 
with  the  bod\-  of  the  Saint  a  few  days  after  his  Martyr- 
dom, which  took  place  durino-  the  reign  of  Gallienus  in 
the  -sear  25*).  After  bein<»'  tossed  about  on  the  waves 
for  two  da\s  and  two  nights,  an  angel  appeared  to  Gius- 
tino  in  a  dream  and  indicated  the  place  where  they 
were  to  land:  "Mons  vero  magnus,  qui  vobis  prior  appar- 
ebit.  ibi  est  locus,  sed  draco  pestifer  moratur".  A  legend 
of  this  sort  is  hardly  complete  without  a  dragon!  It 
represents  the  spirit  of  evil  which  endeavours  to  prevent 
hoh-  deeds.  In  this  case  it  ma\-  have  been  s\'mbolic  of 
the  wild  sea  which  made  the  landing  on  the  steep  rocky 
clitls  of  the  promontory  so  ditlicult.  Next  morning  the 
boat,  with  the  remains  of  the  Saint,  arrived  at  the  foot 
of  the  mountain  indicated  hv  the  angel.  A  storm  was 
raging  and  the  promontor\'  was  veiled  in  black  clouds 
from  wliich  lightning  flashed  and  thunder  resounded. 
They  saw  tlie  dragon  also,  but  he  seemed  to  be  fettered, 
and  was  soon  hurled  into  the  depths  hv  some  unseen 
power.  Thus  the\'  were  able  to  land,  and  founded  in 
this  loneh'  spot  the  Abbe\'  of  San  Fruttuoso  di  Capodi- 
monte  which  soon  became  important.  At  the  end  of  the 
tenth  centur\'  it  received  rich  donations  from  Adelasia, 
afterwards  St.  Adelaide,  widow  of  the  Emperor  Otto. 
But  even  this  secluded  ba\'  in  the  mountain  side  was  not  over- 
looked by  the  Saracens  who  plundered  the  Abbey  later. 
Its  importance,  however,  still  increased  and  it  was  an 
-Vbbot  of  San  Fruttuoso,  Martino  Doria,  who  in  1125 
built    the  Church  of  San  Matteo  in   (xenoa   and   made  it 

15* 


362 ABBEY  OF  SAN  FRUTTUOSO. 

dependent  upon  the  Abbey.  The  number  of  churches 
under  the  control  of  the  Abbey  was  constantly  increasing, 
and  in  the  course  of  the  thirteenth  century  the  Dorias  chose 
San  Fruttuoso  as  their  burial  place.  Here  Admiral  Egidio 
Doria,  the  victor  of  Meloria,  and  other  admirals  of  this  illus- 
trious house  found  their  last  resting  place.  This  aroused 
the  jealousy  of  the  rival  monastery  of  Cervara  and  resulted 
in  the  monastery  of  San  Fruttuoso  being  closed  by  Pope 
Julius  III  in  1550  and  its  being  handed  over  to  the  secular 
rule  of  the  Dorias.  xA.ndrea  Doria  then  had  the  tower  built 
to  protect  the  Abbey  from  the  Corsairs.  But  the  pro- 
tection of  the  Dorias  did  not  last  long,  so  that  all  the 
monuments  of  ancient  times  would  have  disappeared  had 
not  the  Abbey  been  cared  for  with  pious  affection  bv 
the  fishermen.  The  offerings  are  but  small  which  these 
men,  both  few  and  poor,  have  been  able  to  contribute 
to  their  parish ;  hence  the  church  looks  a  little  dilapidat- 
ed and  the  ashes  of  the  Saint  rest  under  an  unpreten- 
tious altar,  although  thev  are  considered  the  oldest  relics 
in  Liguria.  A  flight  of  stone  steps  leads  down  from  the 
church  to  the  ancient  Abbey.  A  small  quadrangle  with 
old  cloisters  opens  to  the  left,  whilst  in  front  is  a  vaulted 
chamber  which  contains  the  tombs  of  the  Dorias.  These 
also  have  suffered  and  only  the  slender  pillars  and  arches, 
consisting  of  alternate  black  and  white  marble  as  the 
taste  of  the  fourteenth  century  dictated,  tell  of  former 
splendour.  These  monuments  can  no  longer  be  said  to  be 
beautiful;  but  they  afford  food  for  reverent  contemplation. 
We  now  entrusted  ourselves  to  the  sea.  Westward 
the  sky  had    veiled   itself  in  mist,  and  the  signal  station 


m'    UOAT    VO    PORIOKINO. 


363 


on  the  ridi^e  announcetl  a  chaii^'c  ot  wu'atli- 
er.     As  thouii'h    in  anticipation   ol     ,   \^ 
an     approacliing     storm     tlie     sea      \ 
heaved   like  tlie  breast 
of    a    tronbled 


sleeper.  The  wa\es 
rose    and     tell    in 
rythmic      motion 
against   the   per- 
pendicnlar  rocks, 
their  crests 
silver     ^—^ 

wat-   >^R--— ^^;>^ 
rellections  hke  steel 
tempered    bv    fire, 
the  secret  of  fixing 
of    light    upon   the 
was    tuned    to    the 


Qiiercus 
Ilex. 


ed     with     foam. 

er  showed  metallic 
which  has  been 
Bocklin  alone  had 
1  canvas  these  varying  tones 
surface  of  the  sea,  for  his  mind 
deepest  poetry  of  Nature.  His 
veiled  woman,  that  rapt  form  who  is  accompanying  the 
music  of  the  "Surging  Sea"  with  chords  on  her  harp, 
would  be  appropriate  on  one  of  the  ledges  of  these 
rugged  rocks. 

When  a  storm  rages  here, 

'"the  Ocean's  purple  waves 
Climbing  the  land,  howl  to  the  lashing  winds". 
The  vertical    cliff  is  bare  for  some  distance,    and  higher 
up  we   see    dead    trees    which    have    been    killed    h\    the 
salt  spra\'. 

The    sea   was    deserted;    we    did    not   meet   a  single 
boat  on  the  wax.    But  we  passed  swarms  of  bluish   cr\stal 


364  PORTOFINO. 


Medusae  which  were  swimming  in  long  shoals  towards 
some  unknown  goal.  What  is  the  instinct  that  unites  these 
creatures  and  causes  them  to  keep  together?  Whither 
are  thev  bound?  Probably  to  the  nearest  shore  on  which 
they  will  be  cast  up  tomorrow. 

Not  until  we  had  sailed  round  the  eastern  point  of 
the  promontory  and  reached  the  harbour  of  Portofino, 
was  the  sea  smooth.  There  is  always  a  swell  round  this 
long  promontory,  and  storms  rage  here  with  unwonted 
fury.  Hence  from  ancient  times  the  Portus  Del- 
phini  has  been  regarded  by  the  anxious  sailor  as  a 
welcome  refuge.  Roman  triremes,  when  on  their  way 
to  Gaul,  used  to  touch  at  the  following  ports  in  the 
Ligurian  sea :  —  Lunae,  Portus  Veneris,  Portus  Delphini, 
Genua  portus,  Portus  Vadum  Sabatium,  Portus  Maurici 
and  Monaci  portus.  Portofino  is  the  ancient  Portus 
Delphini;  but  according  to  G.  Poggi  neither  of  these 
names  is  derived  as  one  might  suppose,  from  "Delphine". 
This  investigator  of  ancient  Tigullia  seeks  to  prove  that 
the  origin  of  both  these  names  is  "Dao-fin",  the  old  name 
given  to  the  whole  ridge  because  it  separated  the  peoples 
of  Genoa  and  Tigullia.  But  the  Romans  had  already 
changed  the  name  of  their  military  station  on  this  ridge 
to  "Ad  Delphinum"  perhaps  for  the  sake  of  euphony. 
It  was  on  the  Via  Aurelia,  at  the  spot  where  Ruta  now 
lies.  G.  Poggi,  in  his  book,  would  have  the  present  har- 
bour at  the  foot  of  the  ridge  called  "Porto-fin",  and  not 
Portofino. 

It  is  peaceful  and  idyllic  in  the  little  harbour  today, 
and    yet    its    waters    have  only  too  often  been  the  scene 


POirrOFINO.  365 


of  blooch  conllicts.  Vov  instance  at  tlie  time  of  those 
imirderoiis  and  fratricidal  wars  between  Pisa,  Genoa  and 
\"enice,  when  Guelts  and  GhibelHnes  contended  for  this 
harbour  which  was  of  such  strategic  importance.  On 
Februar\-  1st,  l.->12,  tlie  thirt^•  (jenoese  and  Pisan  (jallcys, 
bearing  the  Emperor  IIenr\'  \  II  and  liis  army  to  Tus- 
can^•,  passed  through  Porto-fin;  and  G.  Poggi  supposes 
tliat  Dante  Aligliieri  must  have  been  on  board  one  of 
them.  Conradin,  King  of  Sicily,  Odoardo,  Duke  of 
Parma,  and  Richard,  King  of  England,  also  stopped 
here.  From  1800  to  1815  French,  English,  Spanish  and 
.Vustrians  fought  for  the  possession  of  this  harbour,  and 
Napoleon,  when  at  last  he  felt  sure  of  his  prize,  caused 
Portotino  to  be  called  after  himself  in  a  decree  dated 
Januar\'  2nd,    1813. 

From  the  Madonna  del  Capo,  whose  statue  stands 
on  the  extreme  point  of  the  promontory,  we  can  see  far 
along  the  coast  eastward  to  the  distant  island  of  Pal- 
maria.  Santa  Margherita,  Rapallo,  Zoagli,  Chiavari  and 
Sestri  Levante  succeed  one  another  on  this  beautful  gulf. 
We  are  onh-  an  hour's  easy  walk  from  Santa  Margherita, 
and  we  can  overlook  the  road  to  it  which  winds  along 
the  hill  shaded  b}'  old  Evergreen  Oaks  and  Pines.  Half 
wa\'  to  Santa  Margherita,  on  a  wooded  slope,  lies  the 
ancient  monaster^•  of  Cervara  whose  jealous\-  had  once 
been  so  disastrous  to  the  Abbe\'  of  San  Fruttuoso.  The 
young  Genoese  priest,  Lanfranco,  had  founded  this  monas- 
tery in  1361.  It  enjoyed  the  patronage  of  his  con- 
temporary, Guido  Settimo  of  Genoa  —  a  friend  of 
Petrarch's  —    who    spent    the    last  ^  ears  of  his  life  here 


366 SESTRI   LEVANTE. 

and  was  buried  here.  In  its  prosperous  days  Cervara 
could  boast  of  many  a  distinguished  guest.  Saint  Cath- 
arine of  Siena  visited  this  monastery  and  shortly  after- 
wards Pope  Gregory  XI,  who  at  the  request  of  the  Saint 
had  resolved  to  return  to  Rome  from  Avignon.  Then 
came  Cardinal  Farnesi,  who  was  later  Pope  Paul  III; 
then  Don  Juan  of  Austria,  the  victor  of  Lepanto.  But  in 
the  meantime  an  unwilling  guest  stayed  here.  This  was 
King  Francis  I  of  France  who,  after  losing  the  battle 
of  Pa  via.  had  to  spend  a  night  here  (February  25th, 
1525)  on  his  way  to  Spain.  A  quadrangular  tower  is 
the  onlv  part  of  this  building  which  can  lay  claim  to 
any  great  antiquity-.  This  was  erected  by  the  Genoese 
as  a  defence  against  Pirates. 

CHAPTER  VI. 

A  few  days  later  I  arrived  in  Sestri  Levante.  At 
first  I  could  not  resist  a  certain  feeling  of  disappointment. 
The  whole  of  the  scenery  round  the  railway  station  was 
devoid  of  foliage  and  the  road  to  the  town  led  through 
an  avenue  of  leafless  Plane  trees.  Near  the  Grand  Hotel 
Jensch,  it  is  true,  there  was  a  garden  planted  with  southern 
evergreens,  but  the  sea  shore  by  the  modest  little  town 
appeared  to  us  somewhat  bare.  Until  quite  recently 
Sestri  Levante  has  only  been  frequented  in  the  hot  season 
by  Italian  visitors  for  the  bathing,  but  during  the  last 
ten  years  it  has  begun  to  rank  as  a  winter  resort  and 
has  not  yet  had  time  to  array  itself  in  those  borrowed 
plumes  in  which  the  gardens  of  Nervi  and  the  coast 
towns    of    the  Ponente    make    such    a    show.    But     there 


SESTRl   Li:\'ANTE. 


367 


is    much     natural    beaut\-    here     f^^g*     ^'  ''^  * 

which  soon  captiv- 
ates the  visitor.  It 
is  less  protected 
from  the  Tra- 
niontana  than 
Nervi.  and  a 
fresh  invigorating 
breeze  blows  here, 
which  is  good  for 
nervous  in\alids  and  the 
weak.  —  Not  till  the  end  of  March 
does  the  Gromolo  Valley  show  signs  of 
verdure,  but  close  at  hand  are  extensive  ever- 
woods  and  Macchia.  The  place  is  steadily 
asing  in  favour.  The  beautiful  woods  of  Maritime 
refresh  us  with  their  shade  and  we  are  pleased  b\-  their 
healthy  appearance.  They  are  not  disligured 
by  the  ravages  of  caterpillars,  as  is  unfortun- 
ateh'  often  the  case  on  the  Riviera  di  Ponente. 
In  the  underwood  the  Tree  Heath  predom- 
inates, growing  to  a  remarkable  height 
and  here  and  there  forming  stateh" 
groves.  It  blooms  in  the  very 
earh-  spring  and  at  that  time  forms 
the  principal  adornment  of 
the  woods.  Here,  too,  there 
arc  woods  composed  cntireh" 
ot  jn  ramidal  Cx'presses  on  several 
of  the  mountain  slopes.  These  have 


green 
incre- 
Pines 


358  THE    CYPRESS. 


a  very  sombre  effect.  Cvpress  wood  was  much  valued  in 
ancient  times  and  a  thick  trunk  represented  a  small  capital. 
According  to  Pliny  this  is  the  origin  of  the  custom  of 
planting  a  Cypress  when  a  daughter  was  born,  to  ensure  her 
a  dowr^'.  There  was  hardh'  auA'  timber  better  suited  for 
ship  building,  and  this  wood,  like  that  of  the  North  African 
Callitris,  was  used  to  make  boxes  to  protect  clothing 
from  moth.  Sarcophagi  for  the  rich,  and  idols  were  carved 
out  of  it.  In  the  times  of  the  Caesars  the  Cvpress  pro- 
vided the  wood  for  funeral  p\res  and,  as  it  was 
thought  to  be  indestructible,  it  was  regarded  amongst 
Christians  as  the  "Tree  of  Life",  the  symbol  of  immor- 
tality. For  the  same  reason  it  adorns  the  burial  places 
of  the  Mohammedans  and  in  our  latitudes,  where  it  cannot 
stand  the  severe  climate,  the  Cypress  has  been  replaced 
by  the  somewhat  similar  North  American  Thuja  occi- 
dentalism which  has  also  been  called  Arbor  \^itae  the 
"Tree  of  Life".  In  the  second  half  of  the  "Quattrocento" 
it  was  a  common  custom  in  Italian  gardens  to  remove 
the  branches  at  certain  intervals  so  as  to  form  terraces 
round  the  main  stem.  In  his  interesting  work  "Die  Natur 
in  der  Kunst",  Felix  Rosen  has  referred  to  the  fact  that 
Cypress  trees  are  frequenth'  thus  represented  in  old 
Italian  pictures. 

vSestri  Levante  possesses  a  priceless  pearl  in  its  cas- 
ket, a  jewel  which  every  place  on  the  Riviera  might 
covet  ■ —  the  MUa  Piuma.  It  adorns  the  end  of  the 
promontor\-  that  juts  out  into  the  sea  like  an  island,  and 
on  which  the  oldest  parts  of  the  town  rise,  culminating 
in  a  cemetery  at  the  summit. 


VILLA    PIUMA.  369 


I  spend  the  morniuLi;'  reoularK-  in  the  park  of  the 
\'illa  Piunia.  I  lerr  Jenscli  liaviner  lent  nie  tlie  ke^•  of  the 
upper  entrance.  In  the  earh-  iiiornuio-  I  walk  up  through 
the  old  town  and  open  tlie  small  gate  in  the  old  wall 
in  a  sequestered  spot  below  the  cemeter\'.  And  each 
time  I  enter  the  park  by  this  little  gate  I  am  enchanted 
with  the  view.  The  splencHd  scene  is  disclosed  as  if  b^- 
magic.  In  front  of  me  steep  precipices  fall  sheer  down 
to  the  sea  and  dip  into  the  crested  waves.  'The  edge 
of  the  promontorv  is  shaded  hv  a  broad  belt  of  Pine  trees, 
which  seem  as  though  arranged  hv  a  master  hand,  so 
effectiveh'  do  they  adorn  it.  Agaves  of  a  vivid  green 
cling  fast  to  the  neighbouring  slope.  The  wall  close  to 
the  entrance  is  quite  hidden  under  the  rich  growth  of 
large-leaved  Iv\-  and  Smilax.  It  rises  up  to  an  old  ruined 
castle  near  which  the  burial  place  lies.  Out  of  the  dark 
green  foliage,  dazzling  white  statues  and  crosses  peep 
forth.  In  the  foreground  Arbutus  (Fig.  p.  37)  Oleasters, 
Pines  and  Evergreen  Oaks  crowd  upon  each  other,  and 
steeped  in  light  the  trackless  sea  sparkles  and  shines  in 
the  background.  In  order  to  paint  this  picture  the  artist 
would  have  to  dip  his  brush  alternateh'  in  the  light  ot 
the  sun  and  the  blue  of  the  sea. 

From  the  entrance  broad  steps  lead  down  lirst  through 
Erica  bushes:  then  the  view  opens  out  o\er  the  eastern 
ba\'  and  the  Monte  Castello.  where  wooded  heights  end 
in  the  steep  Cap  on  which  stands  the  "•Telcgrapho". 
In  the  north-west  the  blue  Apennines  rise  range  be\ond 
range.  A  light  breeze  blows  from  the  open  sea,  stealing 
the    perfume    of   the  Erica    on  its  waw     We  rest  here  a 


370  VILLA   PIUMA. 


long  time  and  let  our  gaze  wander  over  land  and  sea. 
It  is  so  quiet,  so  peaceful  here.  A  fishing  boat  down 
near  the  foot  of  the  cliff  is  scarceh'  rocked  by  the  waves, 
and  in  it  the  fisherman  lies  sleeping.  A  shoal  of  Dol- 
phins sport  in  the  sun-flecked  water.  Do  thev  too  know 
that  spring  is  near? 

The  path  leads  along  the  steep  slope  towards  the 
point  of  the  promontor^^  We  are  surrounded  b\'  the 
fragrant  Helichrysum  (Fig.  p.  227)  and  the  spic\'  scented 
"Nasca"  (Fig.  p.  239).  With  these  are  the  shiny  dark- 
green  leaves  of  another  plant,  quite  as  strongly  perfumed, 
the  Psoralea  hituuunosa  (Fig.  p.  ?)^S),  also  t^'pical  of  the 
flora  here.  Its  peculiar  aroma  is  like  bitumen,  as  its 
name,  Pitch  Clover,  indicates.  It  opens  its  small,  clover- 
like flower-heads  in  June  :  the  leaves,  which  closely  re- 
semble those  of  our  clovers,  were  fbrmerh'  sold  together 
with  all  other  parts  of  the  plant  as  "Folia  trifolii  bitumi- 
nosi".  and  much  used  in  medicine. 

We  soon  reach  a  saddle-shaped  depression  in  the 
ridge,  from  which,  over  the  grev  foliage  of  the  Olives 
and  between  Cypresses  and  flowering  Peach  trees,  we 
could  see  a  part  of  Sestri  Levante  against  the  back- 
ground of  the  Apennines.  Numerous  paths  converge 
here  and  lead  in  all  directions  over  the  promontory, 
intersecting  here  and  there.  We  are  now  in  a  splendid 
natural  Park,  among  representatives  of  the  Mediterranean 
flora  and  with  scarcely  a  single  foreign  plant.  Old  Oak 
trees  and  Pines  rise  above  the  Maquis.  Here  winter  is 
forgotten,  for  not  a  single  bare  tree  top  offends  the  eye. 
The  pure     refreshing  breeze  from  the    sea  sweeps  along 


VILLA    PIUMA. 


371 


the  slope  and  inflates  the  lungs.     Al 
every    turn  ot  the   road  th  e  out- 
look changes.     To  which  of  the     ^- 
nianv    scenes    sliall    the    prefer-  a 

ence  be  given  ?     As  soon  as  we 
leave  one  spot  we  return  to  it  for 
surelv  it  was  the  most  beautiful  I     li 
the  end   I   decided  in  favour  of  a 
small     projection     at    the     south- 
western side  of  the   mountain,    where 
the  whole  west  coast  as  far  as  Portofino 
is     seen     in     a     frame     of    luxuriant 
verdure.      Down    below    through    the 
trees  the  azure  blue  sea  glitters  in  the 
full  sunshine,   streaked  with  gold  like 
Lapis  Lazuli;  and  be\ond,  mistv  and  silverv 
white,    the    snow    masses    of    the    Al] 
seem   to    hover    in    the    clouds.     Here 
I  used  often  to  sit,  hither  I  returned, 
and  from  this  spot  I  found  it  most 
difficult  to  tear  mvself  awa\'  on  vsw 
departure. 

It  is  fortunate  for  those  who  come 
in    search    of    health,    and    to    enjoy 
nature,    that  the  X'illa   Piuma  is  in  th 
possession     of     an     Italian     nobleman 
whose  heart  is  in  his  countr\-  and  wh 
is  proud  of  its  beaut\"  and  who  delights 
to  share  it  with  others.  The  Marchese 
Piuma    is    a    scholar    and    Professor    of 


jy^i 


^i 


^ 


r^^ 


Rosmarinus  officinalis. 


372  VILLA   PIUMA. 


Mathematics  at  the  University  of  Genoa,  and  lectures  on 
the  calcukis.  He  spends  the  vacations  only  in  his  Villa 
at  Sestri  Levante,  or  at  another  estate  in  the  Polcevera 

valley. 

The  feeling  of  gratitude,  that  every  visitor  to  the 
V^illa  Piuma  entertains  for  its  owner,  is  increased  by  the 
memorv  of  contrarv  experience  in  other  places  on  the 
Riviera.  And  even  at  Portofino,  near  at  hand,  the  traveller 
finds  the  gates  closed  and  is  confronted  by  notices  in  several 
languages  forbidding  his  entrance.  Of  what  avail  is  it 
that  the  estate  is  thrown  open  on  certain  daA's  and  at 
fixed  hours.  One  mav  not  be  able  to  come  again.  The 
community  should  see  to  it  that  at  least  a  few  of  the 
spots  which  command  views  should  remain  open  to  all. 
But  everything  about  Portofino  has  been  sold  to  foreign 
owners.  It  is  only  due  to  the  modest  statue  of  the 
Madonna  del  Capo,  which  stands  on  the  east  end  of 
the  promontorv,  that  everv  free  outlook  Irom  this  spot 
is  not  enclosed.  A  narrow  foot-path  has  had  to  be  left 
leading  to  the  Madonna,  that  the  devotee  may  bring  his 
offering  ot  flowers.  The  owner  of  the  plots  of  land 
bordering  this  path  has  therefore  been  compelled  to  build 
bridges  over  it  and,  with  rare  taste,  he  has  painted  these, 
as  well  as  all  his  buildings,  with  broad  black  and  vellow 
stripes! 

In  the  neisfhbourhood  of  Sestri  Levante  the  visitor 
is  better  off.  He  can  enjoy  full  and  uninterrupted  views 
from  all  the  roads  that  follow  the  coast  at  some  distance 
above  the  sea.  I  used  generally  to  walk  in  the  afternoon 
either  eastwards  to  the  "Telegrapho",  or  in  the  opposite 


SANTA  ANNA.  373 


direction  o\or  to  w^anta  Anna.  ^'ou  cannot  miss  the 
\va\-  to  tlie  Teleiij-rapho.  Passin(r  lhrou<r]i  an  arched 
door\va\-  in  the  niain  street  of  Sestri,  and  reaching  the 
'•\'ico  deir  Botone",  vou  turn  sharp  to  the  left  and 
follow  the  red-paved  road  that  leads  up  between  garden 
walls.  You  will  onh"  once  be  undecided,  at  a  spot  where 
tlie  road  appears  to  stop  suddcnh'  in  front  of  a  group 
of  rocks.  But  it  goes  past  these  rocks  into  a  thick 
Pine-wood.  Here  the  Maritime  Pine  grows  luxuriantly 
and  the  bushes  of  the  Maejuis  forma  thick  undergrowth; 
even  a  few  Cork  Oaks  have  strayed  here.  New  aspects 
ot  the  sea  and  coast  appear  at  every  opening.  The 
isthmus  uniting  Mlla  Piuma  with  the  mainland  is 
so  narrow  as  to  give  it  the   appearance  of  a  green  island. 

In  order  to  reach  the  beautiful  spot  where  stand 
the  ruins  of  Santa  Anna,  which  can  be  seen  from  a 
great  distance,  you  have  to  follow  the  rail  in  a  westerly- 
direction  and  then  turn  into  the  valle\'  that  branches  off 
inland.  The  path  goes  through  a  quarr^•  by  the  side 
of  a  brook,  and  when  in  the  wood  it  begins  to  ascend. 
It  soon  leaves  the  stream,  onh'  to  turn  back  to  it  again, 
and  at  last  reaches  the  plateau  on  which  the  ruins  stand. 
Thence  it  is  pleasant  to  walk  on  almost  level  ground 
to  the  spot  where  Cavi  can  be  seen  in  the  hollow  of 
the  valley.  At  the  same  time  the  eve  can  feast  on  the 
magnificent  view  of  the  deeph"  indented  coast  line  which 
encloses  the   Gulf  of  Rapallo. 

The  views  from  the  mountain  road  betw^een  Rapallo 
and  Chiavari  are  ver\-  similar.  This  road  is  considered 
to    be  one    of  the    finest    in   Ital\-,    and  righth"    so   as  all 


374 RAPALLO  TO  CHIAVARI. 

agree  who  have  followed  its  windings  on  a  clear,  sunny 
day.  It  leads  almost  uninterruptedly  through  Olive 
groves,  and  consequenth'  is  equally  beautiful  at 
all  times  of  the  year.  Time  flew  so  rapidly  on  the  walk 
that  I  hardh'  seemed  to  have  been  two  and  a  half  hours 
on  the  way  from  Rapallo  to  Chiavari.  I  met  only  a 
single  motor  car,  so  that  my  enjo\'ment  of  the  natural 
surroundings  was  not  marred  hv  either  dust  or  the  smell 
of  benzine.  Those  who  wish  to  avoid  fatigue  should  not 
walk  further  than  from  Zoagli  to  Rapallo.  Zoagli  is  half 
wav ,  and  the  mountain  road  running  above  the  village 
can  be  reached  bv  a  short  ascent  from  the  railway 
station  down  bv  the  sea.  At  the  highest  point  of  this 
mountain  road  a  halt  should  be  made,  for  indeed  the 
view  from  here  can  be  surpassed  by  few  in  the 
whole  of  Itah'.  It  is  so  diversified,  so  full  of  light  and 
colour,  that  it  fills  the  heart,  as  if  bv  magic,  with  sunshine 
that  even  many  dark  da^'s  in  succession  cannot  quite 
obliterate. 

The  mountain  road,  which  now  connects  Chiavari 
with  Rapallo,  coincides  onh-  here  and  there  with  the 
Via  Aurelia.  The  latter  g-enerallv  ran  at  a  hififher  ele- 
vation  so  that,  if  its  tracks  are  followed,  the  views  are 
still  more  extended.  The  old  road  is  still  used  from 
Chiavari  to  San  Pietro  de  Rovereto,  where  it  becomes 
only  a  mule  track  and  drops  down  to  Zoagli  between 
Olive  groves.  On  the  other  side  of  Zoagli  it  appears 
again  above  the  present  highway  and  continues  as  far 
as  San  Pantaleone.  Here,  on  looking  down,  the  prett^' 
little    town    is    seen    with    its    bright  houses  standing  out 


RAPALLC)  TO   CHIAVARI. 


375 


tVoni  the  dark  loliai^e,  like  pearls  in  a  green  velvet 
casket.  As  a  matter  of  fact  Zoagli  owes  her  modest 
prosperity  to  real  velvet;  for  from  remote  times  the 
manufacture  of  "\^eluti  di  Genova"  has  flourished  here, 
and  the  velvet  is  still  held  in  high  esteem.  From  San 
I'antaleone  the  road  continues  to  ascend  to  San  Ambrosio 
where  the  highest  point  (()4()  feet)  of  the  old  Roman 
road  is  reached.  There  the  Counts  of  Lavagna  built 
a  castle  in  order  to   command  the  district.    The  Chronic- 


lers      first 
1070.   The 
somewhat 
along   the 
antiquit^'  of 
Between 
debouches 
deal     of 
coast  where 
so  emptv 
places  for 


^  nationa 


mention    this    building    in  the  year 
Roman        road       then       descends 
abruptly    to    Rapallo,    which    lies 
Ma    Aurelia,    and    can    boast    an 
at  least  nineteen  hundred  ^^ears. 
Chiavari  and  Lavagna  the  Entella 
nto  the  sea.    It  carries  down  a  good 
Iter,     which    is    surprising    on   this 
the  torrent  beds  are  generally 
that  the\'   are  used   as  dr^■ing 
washing.      Dante     praises    the 
Entella  in  the  nineteenth  Canto 
of  the  Purgatorio:   "Infra  Sestri 
e  Chiavari  s'adima  una  liumana 
^ 'A,       bella."    —    B^-    going    up 
'  ^_^      the  river  we  reach  San 

"  '^"^      .     Salvatore     in    about 
^    three  quarters    of    an 
hour.    The  Basilica  there, 
which    was    erected    as  a 
monument,     is    worth    a    visit.       But 


-  v_ 
Salvia  horminoides. 


376  THE   FIESCHI. 


what  really  induced  me  to  undertake  this  excursion 
was  interest  in  the  founders  of  the  church,  whose 
names  Schiller  has  made  familiar  to  us  from  our  youth 
up  by  his  tragedy  of  the  "Fieschi".  They  called  them- 
selves Counts  of  Lavagna.  In  the  ^'ear  1244  Sinebaldo 
Fiescho,  who  as  Pope  bore  the  name  of  Innocent  I\^, 
laid  the  foundation  of  the  Basilica.  The  fresco  over  the 
entrance  represents  him  kneeling  at  the  mount  of  Calvar\'. 
The  large  Rose  window  in  the  otherwise  extremely  plain 
facade  is  a  highly  artistic  piece  of  work  and  well  pre- 
served. It  is  otherwise  with  the  neighbouring  Castle  of  the 
Fieschi.  The  alternate  bands  of  light  and  dark  stone,  and 
the  arches  of  its  windows,  show  that  the  building  was  of 
the  same  date  as  the  Basilica;  but  the  architectural  effect 
is  destroyed,  for  the  windows  are  walled  up  and  the  interior 
has  been   adapted   to  the  needs  of  poor  country  people. 

The  nephew  of  Innocent  IV,  Ottobuoni  Fiesco,  whom 
the  former  raised  to  the  rank  of  Cardinal-deacon  under 
the  title  of  St.  Hadrian  and  who  afterwards  became  Pope 
Hadrian  V,  is  represented  in  Dante's  Purgatorio  as  speaking. 
He  makes  him  praise,  in  the  words  quoted  above,  the 
river  of  his  native  district,  —  the  Lavagna,  now  called 
Entella.  "Between  Chiavari  and  Sestri  a  fair  river  rushes 
down,  from  whose  name  my  family  derives  its  honour- 
able title".  As  to  the  avarice  with  which  Dante  charges 
Ottobuoni,  the  ro^'al  translator  and  commentator  of  the 
"Divina  Commedia",  Philalethes,  could  not  lind  any 
historical  confirmation  of  it. 

The  power  of  the  Fieschi  began  to  decline  about 
the  year  1000.    They  had  become  dependant  upon  Genoa 


SESTRI  LEVANTE. 377 

and  removed  thitlier.  In  (ienoa  the  fainilx  llourished 
anew,  attained  considerable  importance  and  accjuired 
great  riches.  Thev  owned  man\  palaces,  and  in  the 
Catliedral  of  San  Lorenzo  the\'  possessed  a  special  Chapel 
and  burial  vault.  In  the  thirteenth  century  the  famih' 
split  into  two  branches,  the  Savignone  and  the  Toriglia. 
To  the  first  lamih  belonged  Gian  Luigi  il  (jrande,  who 
had  entertained  Louis  XII  of  France  in  his  palace  "\'ia 
Late".  From  this  Gian  Luigi  was  descended  Sinebaldo, 
and  from  his  union  with  Maria  della  Rovere,  niece  of 
Pope  Julius  II,  proceeded  that  Gian  Luigi,  the  third  of 
this  name,  who  placed  himself  at  the  head  of  the  con- 
spiracy against  the  Dorias.  It  is  well  known  that  some 
words  of  Rousseaifs,  to  the  effect  that  this  Fiesco  was 
one  of  the  most  remarkable  characters  in  history,  prompt- 
ed Schiller    to    make  this  man  the  subject  of  a  tragedw 

If  you  make  excursions  inland  from  Sestri  Levante 
in  the  earh"  spring  \ou  will  be  struck  by  the  backward 
appearance  of  the  yegetation,  especially  in  the  higher 
regions  of  the  Apennines.  For  there  winter  is  not  over 
till  Ma\-.  Nevertheless  one  ought  not  to  miss  the  drive 
to  Bracco  on  the  road  leading  from  Sestri  Levante  over 
the  Apennines  to  Spezia,  for  it  commands  a  number  of 
charming  views  over  the  sea  and  coast. 

Here  we  find  ourselves  again  on  the  old  Roman 
road  that  connected  Luifi  with  the  Genoese  coast.  It 
divided  on  the  top  of  the  mountain  at  the  present  village 
of  Mattarana,  one  branch  running  down  to  the  sea  at 
Moneglia  through  the  V"al  di  Deiva,  and  the  other  leading 
past  Bracco    to    Segesta    TiguUorum,  the   present   Sestri 


378  ON  THE  ROAD  TO  BRx\CCO. 

The  successors  of  the  Romans  here  at  first  made  use  of 
the  Roman  roads,  near  which  they  built  their  castles; 
but  gradually  they  allowed  these  roads  to  fall  into  dis- 
repair and  did  not  make  new  ones.  So  that  at  the  be- 
ginning of  the  eleventh  centur^'  the  means  of  communi- 
cation between  the  different  villages  were  so  interrupted 
that  traffic  along  the  coast  was  confined  to  the  sea. 

Before  the  finely  situated  Villa  Bertollo  is  reached 
on  the  road  from  Bracco  you  look  down  into  both  bays 
which  are  separated  bv  the  pineclad  Monte  Castello. 
The  bay  of  Moneglia  can  also  be  seen  beyond  a  spur  of 
the  hill,  and  in  the  far  distance,  when  it  is  clear,  the  most 
northern  point  of  Corsica  is  visible  across  the  blue  sea.  In 
the  Petronio  valley  to  the  west  the  groups  of  grey 
houses  of  Casarza,  Masso  and  Castiglione  form  charming 
scenes.  These  places  lie  along  the  road  to  Borgotaro 
which  there  joins  the  railway  to  Parma.  To  the  north 
and  east  tower  the  giant  masses  of  the  Apennines.  Their 
heights  are  bare,  but  delicately  tinged  with  different 
shades  of  pearl-grey,  orange  and  pale  blue.  The  strong 
contrast  of  light  and  shade  enhances  the  effect  still 
more,  and  at  the  same  time  throws  them  into  bold  relief, 
bringing  the  whole  into  sublime  harmony. 

CHAPTER  VII. 

A  well  known  authority  on  Swiss  Botany,  H.  Christ, 
author  of  "Das  Pflanzenleben  der  Schweiz",  considers 
the  Riviera  di  Levante  one  of  the  most  attractive  dis- 
tricts of  Italy.  The  eastern  part  of  it.  between  Sestri 
Levante  and  Spezia,  especially  charms  him,  not  only  b}' 


EASTERN  LIMIT  OF  THE  MAQUIS 


379 


its  beauty,  but  bv  its  primitive  character. 
He  admires,  above  all,  the  rocky 
cliffs  rising  abruptly  from  the 
sea,      with    their    frequent 
contortions  and  their  vary- 
ing mineralogical  constituents. 
«^kf1^^  .^KK""l»li^T'^u^'^     These  include  almost  every 
W^ jfCj^i^mW^MlX^^M      imaginable  kind  of  rock,  from 

porphyry,  serpentine  and 
granite  rich  in  mica,  to  pure 
quartz  rock.  In  consequence  of 
a  lower  temperature  and 
increasing  humidit\'  a  good 
the  Iberian -maritime  region 
here.  Thus  Querciis  cocci f era  (Fig. 
Alvpuui  (Fig.  p.  207)  and  the 
Lavatcras  (Fig.  p.  271)  which  we  meet  with  so  often  on 
the  western  Riviera,  are  not  to  be  found.  Yet  Pistachia 
Lcntisciis  (Fig.  p.  349)  grows  at  Chiavari  and  JiKphorhiit 
dcndroides  is  seen  at  Cinque  Terre  forming  bushes  the 
height  of  a  man;  while  well  developed  plants  of  Ci'sIks 
nionspeliensis  (Fig.  p.  8'^)  are  to  be  found  in  certain  spots. 
But  it  is  chiefl\-  the  variet\-  and  interest  of  its  ferns  that 
Mr.  Christ  praises  in  this  district. 

The  coast  of  the  Gulf  of  Spezia  is  included  in  the 
Riviera  di  Levante:  the  broad  bed  of  the  river  Magra. 
which  llows  into  the  sea  be\"ond  Ca]')o  Corvo,  being 
regarded  as  its  eastern  liinil.  In  ancient  times  this  river 
separated  Liguria  from  ItaK  .  The  Maquis  can  be  traced 
as  far  as  this.     I>ut  the   shelter   from   the  north   wind  has 


denticiilata.    -\y 

many    plants    of 
begin  to  disappear 
p.  ,359).    Glohularia 


380  CINQUE  TERRE. 


decreased  so  considerably,  and  the  number  of  deciduous 
trees  is  so  great,  that  one  can  hardly  consider  those 
places  situated  to  the  south  east  of  Sestri  Levante  as 
o-ood  winter  resorts.  On  no  account  could  they  be  re- 
commended to  those  suffering  from  chest  complaints, 
who  are  in  search  of  a  milder  climate  in  the  winter  and 
like  to  be  surrounded  by  evergreen  shrubs  and  trees. 

The  Nature  lover  also  should  postpone  his  excur- 
sions to  the  eastern  part  of  the  Riviera  di  Levante  until 
late  in  the  spring,  that  he  ma\-  then  see  the  beautiful 
country  in  its  full  glory.  This  applies  especially  to  the 
Cinque  Terre,  that  fantastic  realm  of  rocks  which  is 
well  worthy  of  a  visit. 

The  Cinque  Terre  derive  their  name  from  five 
stony  districts  between  Levanto  and  Porto  Venere.  These 
are  situated  in  the  narrow  indentations  of  the  coast  and 
rise  abruptly  from  the  sea-shore  towards  the  mountains. 
They  are  only  a  kilometre  apart,  but  sky-high  precipices 
tower  between  them,  running  out  into  the  sea  and  form- 
ing insurmountable  barriers,  so  that  it  takes  an  hour 
to  get  from  one  place  to  another.  In  making  the  Via 
Aurelia,  these  invincible  obstacles  had  to  be  avoided 
and  in  order  to  pass  this  strip  of  coast  the  road  was 
carried  over  the  heights.  Modern  science  at  last  tunnelled 
these  rocky  masses  b^'  means  of  explosives,  and  thus 
brought  into  communication  people  whose  only  intercourse 
with  each  other  and  the  outside  world  had  previously 
been  by  sea.  Stormy  weather  isolated  them  com- 
pletely, for  landing  at  these  precipitous  cliffs  was  then 
impossible. 


CINQUE  TERRE.  381 


The  r(H-k\-  chasms  on  whicli  tlicse  places  rise  are 
so  narrow  that  llu-  train,  wlien  it  stops,  often  has  both 
ends  in  the  tunnels.  Wm  are  under  i^round  almost  the 
wliole  ot  the  distance  between  Sestri  Levante  and  Spc/ia, 
and  one  cannot  help  admiriuij^  the  marvellous  skill  which 
has  opened  up  communication  with  this  district,  if  ^•ou 
leave  the  train  at  unv  of  these  stations,  say  Riomaggiore, 
and  emerge  from  the  tunnel  \"ou  will  see  before  you  a 
town,  o-re\-  with  age.  built  of  imhewn  stone,  rising  steepU" 
up  the  mountain  side  and  ending  in  walled  terraces  on 
which  the  vines  grow.  Sometimes  it  looks  as  if  these 
could  onh'  be  reached  at  the  risk  of  life,  as  of  ^•ore 
those  grapes  in  the  Campagna  which  ripened  on  high 
trees.  The  wine  pressed  from  the  grapes  was  celebrated 
of  old.  It  is  sweet  and  heavy,  darker  and  more  lier\' 
than  Orvieto,  though  very  like  it  in  taste  and  colour. 
It  is  put  into  Hasks,  and  as  it  will  keep  only  a  limited 
time,  must  be  consumed  without  any  great  dela^^  The 
grapes  literalh*  roast  in  the  sun  on  the  steep  cliffs  and 
are  consequenth-  yer\'  sweet.  In  autumn  the\'  are  brought 
down  to  the  villages  and  spread  out  on  the  flat  stone 
roofs  of  the  houses,  where  the\'  almost  become  raisins 
before  the\-  are  pressed. 

Tf  }ou  desire  to  get  the  best  impression  of  this  district 
it  is  well  to  postpone  your  visit  until  the  autumn  when 
the  vintage  has  commenced  and  the  women ,  clad  in 
picturesque  costumes,  carr\'  vessels  tilled  with  grapes  on 
their  heads  down  tlie  steep  slopes  of  the  hill.  In  the 
early  spring  the  vines  still  lack  their  foliage,  and  the 
scene    is    not    pleasing    to    the  eye.     The  povert\'   of  the 


382  SAN  REMO. 


place,  too.  is  then  more  apparent  as  it  is  not  sufficientlv 
concealed  b^•  the  wild  splendour  of  surrounding  nature. 
The  inliabitants  have,  as  ^'et,  but  little  experience  of 
strangers;  they  regard  them  with  mistrust  and  do  not 
even  beg  of  them. 

From  Riomaggiore,  the  last  town  of  the  Cinque 
Terre,  vou  cross  the  niountain  to  Spezia.  The  outlook 
over  the  deeph'  indented  gulf,  suddenh'  disclosed  to  view, 
is  glorious.  The  jagged  peaks  of  the  precipitous  Apuanian 
Alps  are  white  with  dazzling  snow :  and  the  coast  of 
the  gulf  is  still  bare.  We  must  return  hither  at  a  later 
season  of  the  year. 

CHAPTER  VUL 

On  the  evening  of  the  next  da^'  I  arrived  at  San 
Remo.  The  starlit  skv  enticed  me  into  the  open  air 
at  a  late  hour.  Close  bv  the  gate  of  the  Hotel  Ro\'al  I 
found  myself  once  more  under  the  stately  Date  Palms 
of  the  garden,  and  the  impression  was  renewed  which 
these  majestic  forms  of  vegetation  alwa^'s  leave  upon  my 
mind.  I  had  missed  these  trees  of  late,  vet  scarcely 
knew  how  much  I  missed  them.  Here  in  the  garden 
they  rose  like  slender  pillars  against  the  skv  line,  illumi- 
nated on  one  side  bv  the  bright  lights  from  the  windows 
of  the  hotel.  High  over  my  head  their  fronds  formed 
intersecting  arches,  like  those  in  the  roof  of  a  Gothic  cath- 
edral. Above  them  stretched  away  the  spacious  firmament 
with  its  innumerable  stars  into  the  depths  of  which  the 
eye  could  penetrate  so  deeply,  even  through  the  darkness 


SAN  REMO. 


383 


Strap ias 
Lingua. 


view.   I  had 
Una.  wliere 


of  the  niglit,  that  one 

seemed  to  realise 

distinctly  the 

fathomless 

perspective     of 

those     distant    orbs. 

Next    morning  I  revelled  in 

a  profusion  of  flowers  and  felt 

to  what    an  extent   the    bright 

colouring    of    this    sunny    coast 

is    due    to    them.      I    roamed  at 

random  up  and  down    between 

the  gardens  of  the  villas.     I  was 

surrounded  everywhere  by  Roses 

and  Acacias  in  full    bloom,    by 

Pelargoniums    and    Heliotrope; 

the  air  was  laden  with  the  scent 

of  Orange  blossom  andFreezias, 

of    Walltiowers    and     Stocks. 

Here    and    there    a     splendid 

Wigandia,  decked  \\ith  violet 

blossoms,    bent    over  the  wall. 

New  plants  continually  attracted 

my  attention.    I  walked  past  the 

different      gardens     only     once 

remaining    rooted    to    the    spot 

when     a      scene       of      tropical 

ieaut\'  was  suddenh'  disclosed  to 

ached  the  garden  of  the  \'illa  Eve- 

er  the  sloping  walls  of  the  terraces 


384  VIA   BERIGO. 


such  a  variety  of  luxuriant  shrubs  overhung  the  path  that  it 
seemed  as  though  a  magic  cornucopiae  had  scattered  its 
contents  over  the  hillside.  Opuntias,  Aloes,  Agaves  and 
other  succulent  plants  grew  in  wild  luxuriance  and  afforded 
a  striking  proof  of  nature's  exuberant  fertilitv  —  a  rich 
v^arietvof  subjects  for  the  artist,  more  gorgeous  than  anvthing 
which  the  imagination  could  invent.  Over  this  tropical  scene 
an  Olive  tree  pensivelv  bows  its  branches :  it  was  so  inter- 
woven b^'  climbing  roses  as  to  look  like  a  thick  bower. 
Close  by  a  dark  Cypress  raised  its  spire,  and  this  too 
was  crowned  with  garlands  of  roses.  Everywhere  yellow 
and  white  Banksias  hang  trailing  from  the  walls.  There 
are  flaming  Pelargoniums  and  tall  Oleanders  lining  the 
border  of  the  path.  And  above  our  heads  Palms  trees, 
draped  with  Ivy,  raise  heavenwards  their  curving  fronds. 

I  now  reached  the  V^ia  Berigo  and  followed  it  in 
a  westerly  direction  to  the  spot  where  it  turns  to  the 
mountains.  Here  the  fertile  valleys  of  della  Foce  and 
San  Bernardo  come  into  view.  Higher  up  the  hill  slopes 
were  rich  in  olive  trees  and  above  these,  picturesqueh' 
situated  on  the  ridge  of  Cap  Nero,  was  the  ancient  gre\' 
village  of  Coldirodi,  flanked  to  the  north  b^'  huge  moun- 
tain masses. 

I  turned,  and  again  followed  the  windings  of  the  \  ia 
Berigo  between  Villas  and  luxuriant  gardens.  Then  I  struck 
into  the  Via  Borofo  which  encircles  the  Val  San  Romolo  in 
a  wide  loop.  Down  in  the  Romolo  Valle^•  all  the  fruit 
trees  were  in  full  bloom,  white,  pink  and  pearl  coloured. 
The  Orange  and  Lemon  trees  displa\'ed  their  golden 
fruit,  while  the  Olive  trees  shone  with  black  berries.    The 


VIA  BORGO.  385 


Almoiul  trees  were  resjilendent  in  the  lii»-ht  (rreen  of 
their  \(iun<»-  foliao-e  and  tlie  ligs  were  airead\-  sproutin£r. 
The  whok'  sliowed  such  luxuriance  as  one  niii»']it  imagine 
was  in  the  (iarden  of  Eden.  On  the  otlier  side  of  the 
valle\'.  crowning  the  hill,  stood  tlie  old  town  of  San 
Remo  darkh'  outlined  —  an  impressive  picttire,  which 
Mctor  Ilehn  sa\  s  reminds  him  of  Taormina.  The  road 
crosses  the  valle\'  hv  a  bridge.  I  now  turned  to  the  east 
and  followed  the  ]-)ath  that  led  to  the  sea.  IW  the  road- 
side was  a  Peach  tree  so  covered  with  blossom  that  its 
boughs  were  almost  entireh'  hidden.  In  the  strong  sun- 
light it  stood  out  boldlv  from  the  dark  blue  background  of 
the  water.  To  the  eye  susceptible  to  colour  harmonies 
the  pearh'  pink  of  these  blossoms  on  an  azure  ground 
would  be  a  dreani  of  delight. 

The  man\-domed  church  of  the  Madonna  della 
Costa,  surrounded  b\'  slender  Cypresses,  overtops  the 
old  town  of  San  Remo.  I  quitted  the  Via  Rorgo  in 
order  to  walk  up  to  the  Madonna.  She  is  enthroned  in 
the  midst  of  the  wide  semicircle  of  high  mountains  that 
form  a  sheltering  wall  round  San  Remo.  The  highest 
point  of  the  range  is  Monte  Bignone,  which  is  4,280  feet 
above  sea-level.  From  its  summit  it  falls  in  gentle  undu- 
lating slopes  eastwards  and  westwards  till  it  reaches  the 
coast,  without  a  single  gap  through  which  the  north  wind 
could  reach  the  vallexs  to  the  south.  Xo  white  peak 
towers  above  this  barrier  to  send  down  an  ic\-  draught. 
You  must  climb  to  the  edge  of  this  huge  amphitheatre 
if  you  would  gaze  on  the  snowy  region  that  lies  be-sond. 
From    the   Madonna   della  Costa   vou  can  look  onh-  due 


386 OLD   SAN    REMO. 

south,  away  into  the  distance  where  sea  and  sky  merge 
in  a  Hght  bhie   mist. 

The  slope  below  the  church  is  laid  out  with  modern 
gardens,  but  we  will  not  tarry  here,  for  the  picturesque 
old  town  of  San  Remo  on  the  flank  of  the  hill  attracts 
us.  Its  blackened  houses  in  the  narro\\'  streets  are  bound 
together  by  strong  arches  and  vaults,  thus  forming  a 
firmly  knit  mass  capable  of  resisting  even  violent  earth- 
quakes. Loggias,  terraces  and  sharp  angles  in  the  streets 
break  the  monotony  of  the  lines.  We  notice  the 
time-worn  figures  of  the  Madonna  as  we  pass;  and 
we  meet  women,  in  the  ancient  costume  of  the  countr\', 
slowly  mounting  the  steep  hill  carrying  water  on  their 
heads  in  copper  vessels.  At  one  street  corner  I  lin- 
gered. Through  the  deep  shadow  of  a  dark  vaulted 
passage  I  saw  a  house  lighted  up  b^'  dazzling  sun- 
shine :  at  the  threshold  sat  a  w^oman  attired  in  blue 
and  red,  with  a  child,  dressed  in  white,  in  her  arms. 
A  ray  of  sunlight  gilded  the  curh'  locks  of  the  child. 
The  arched  passage  formed  a  setting  to  this  picture. 
It  was  a  living  model  of  one  of  those  Madonna 
pictures  that  the  great  Italian  Masters  of  the  Renas- 
cence so  skilfully  transferred  to  canvas.  There  was 
the  same  grace  in  the  attitude  and  the  draper\' ,  the 
same  artistic  effect  of  light  and  shade  and  a  similar 
harmony  in  the  surrounding's.  This  scene  attracted  me 
and  I  stood  so  long  that  the  curiosity  of  the  passers 
by  was  aroused  and  I  had  to  leave  the  spot.  But  my 
attention  was  soon  again  arrested,  this  time  by  the  high 
belfry    tower    of   San    Sirio,    flooded    with    golden    light, 


^ 


Siiiilti.x  nsjitio. 

which  I  suddenly  caught 
sight  of  at  the  end 
of    a     long,     dark 
street.  Again  a  Palm 
tree,    bending    over    the 
wall,    made    me    pause. 
In  the  scanty  shadow 
that    its    fronds  cast    on 
the  road  a  number  of  gaih' 
dressed     children     were 
pla\"ing.    while    a    donke^" 
stretched    its    head    out    of 
the    stable    window     and 
looked  at  them.    Dark-eyed 
maidens,  often  of  striking  beaut^', 
passed  us,  but  all,  alas,   clad  in 
modern    dress.     On  many  of  the 
houses    thick    vines    were    trained 
to  the  highest  storey  forming  shady 
bowers.  Roses  decked  with  bright  festoons  old 
weathered  walls,  giving  them  a  semblance 
of  restored  youth.  These  were  but  moment- 
ary impressions,  but  gladly  would  I,  had  it 
been  possible,  have  stamped  them,  with  all 
their  light  and  colour,  indelibly  on  my  memory. 


CAPO    VERDE. 


The    eastern    part    of  San  Remo    has    developed    of 

late    with    marvellous    rapidity.      New    hotels    and    villas 

are    to     be    seen    ever^' where.     Garden     follows    garden 

in  long  succession.    The  east  ba\'  of  San  Remo  is  indeed 

splendidly  sheltered  from  the  winds.  The  new  Promenade, 

"Passeggiata  Imperatore  Frederico",  leads  along  the  shore 

and  has  the  advantage  of  the  western  Promenade  "Corso 

deir    Imperatrice"    in    that    the    railway    does    not    pass 

between    it    and    the    sea.     Yet    it    is    devoid    of   trees, 

whereas   the    other    is    better    shaded  and  more  popular. 

I  started  for  Punta  di  Capo  \^erde,  crossing  the  eastern 

part   of   the    town.     The   outlook    from  the  road  on  the 

Cap    is     monotonous,     and     I    repeatedly    looked     back 

at    San    Remo     basking     in    the    morning    sun.      It    was 

a   very    hot   day,    although    we    were   still  in   the    month 

of  March.     A  pleasant  breeze  sprang  up  cool  and  fresh 

from  the  sea.     I  struck  into    the  paved    path    that  leads 

up     to     the    Madonna     della     Guardia    and    suddenly    a 

magnificent    prospect    appeared   before  me,    well  worthy- 

of  the  praise  that  has    been  bestowed    upon  it.     To  the 

east,  at  no  great  distance,    the  view  was    closed    hv  the 

ridge    ot    San  Lorenzo.     Yet    westwards    the    eye    could 

range  along  the  coast  far    away  into    the  blue    distance, 

where    the    lighthouse    of   Antibes  rises  like    a    shadowy 

phantom  from  the  sea.     The  view  inland  was  still  more 

attractive.     There  towered  a  might^'   host  of  mountains. 

Deep    valleys    descended    steeply    from    their    heights   to 

the  shore,  clothed  in  the  silvery  grey  of  the  Olives  and 

filled    with    the    bright    beaut}'    of    llowering    fruit    trees. 

Lofty    Cypresses    and    noble    Evergreen    Oaks,    growing 


BUSSANO.  389 


b\'  tlu-  ihurch.  tonn  a  tranir  to  this  uni(.|iie  picture. 
Tiion  tlie  attention  is  attracted  h\  the  ancient  village  of 
Bussano.  which,  as  seen  from  a  short  distance ,  looks 
like  a  pile  of  rocks  risini^  sk^•^vard  on  the  summit  of  a 
precipitous  cliff.  The  ])lace  was  completeh'  destroyed 
b\  the  earthquake  of  INNT  and  is  now  a  most 
romantic  looking  ruin.  But  among  its  fallen  houses 
a  tall  and  slender  church  tower  rises.  Has  this  been 
newh'  erected,  or  did  it  alone  survive  the  destruction? 
Tlie  answer  to  this  question  was  supplied  b\'  a  man 
who  had  approached  me  in  order  to  beg.  The  tower 
did  realh'  remain  standing.  "C"un  miracolo""  he  added. 
The  old  village  of  Bussano  was  deserted  hv  almost  all 
its  inhabitants,  onh'  the  ver\'  poorest  remaining  because 
the\-  were  quite  unable  to  find  an^•  other  lodging.  Those 
who  were  better  off  built  a  new  town  in  the  valle^',  not 
far  from  the  shore.  In  comparison  with  the  old  Bussano 
this  place  has  a  ver\-  prosaic  appearance.  Looking  down 
on  it  from  this  high  ground,  one  might  imagine  that 
children  had  emptied  out  a  box  of  coloured  to^'  houses 
and  set  them  up  all  neath'  and  tidih-  in  a  row.  Perhaps 
the  picturesque  situation  of  the  earlier  village  was  due 
rather  to  necessit^'  than  to  the  love  of  beaut^■.  The 
dread  of  pirates  ma\"  have  driven  them  to  take  refuge 
on  these  inaccessible  heights  and  to  crowd  their  houses 
together  so  as  to  form  a  sort  of  fortress.  Castellaro  was 
thus  constructed,  that  village,  greA'  with  age,  which 
stands  some  little  distance  to  tlie  east  above  the  valley 
of  Taggia.  Below  it  lies  the  village  of  Taggia,  famous 
for  its  Olives  and  rich  in  fertile  gardens  which  lie  along 

10 


390 CERIANA.   —  INTARSIATORE. 

the  river.  This  little  place  is  much  visited  b}'  strangers. 
Enthroned  in  the  mountains  to  the  north-west  is  Ceriana, 
very  old  and  exceedingh'  picturesque.  At  the  time  of 
the  Saracen  peril  it  found  security  in  its  elevated  situation 
on  the  spur  of  Monte  Bignone.  To  the  right  of  Ceriana, 
be\'ond  the  promontor^•,  a  few  peaks  are  seen  sprinkled 
with  snow.  The  valle-s'  of  Taggia,  too,  is  closed  in  to 
the  north  by  white-capped  mountains,  but  the  snowy 
range  of  the  Maritime  Alps  is  not  visible  from  here, 
although  the  Madonna  della  Guardia  projects  far  out 
into  the  open  sea. 

On  returning  to  the  town  I  had  an  opportunity  of 
watching  an  "Intarsiatore''  at  work.  The  "Intarsia" 
industry  still  survives  at  San  Remo,  and  I  was  interested 
to  learn  what  kinds  of  wood  have  been  employed  for 
long  ages  in  this  mosaic  work.  The  ground-work  of  the 
picture  that  I  saw  consisted  of  veined  ^'ellowish-brown 
Olive  wood,  IIolU-  supplied  white,  black  was  pre- 
pared from  the  Fig  tree,  Zizyphiis  znilgaris  furnished 
bright  red,  the  Carob  dark  red  shades,  the  Arbutus  flesh 
colour.  Lemon  and  Orange  wood  bright  yellow,  the 
Evergreen  Oak  light  brown,   and,   finally,  the  Hazel  grey. 

I  was  struck  by  the  numbers  of  lemons  which,  in 
spite  of  the  advanced  season,  still  remained  on  the  trees 
round  San  Remo.  In  answer  to  my  enquiries,  the  people 
complained  bitterh-  of  the  decline  of  the  lemon  trade 
and  the  steady  falling  off  in  prices.  This  was  due  firstly 
to  the  competition  of  the  Balearics,  and  now  the  export 
to  America  is  ceasing  as  this  country  is  beginning  to 
supply  its  own  lemons. 


OSPEDALETTI. 


391 


The  next  da\'  I  visited  Ospedaletti.  If  you  approach 
this  place  from  the  east  aou  will  not  see  it  till  you  are 
close  upon  it.  for  it  lies  in  the  trough  of  a  valley  and 
is  concealed  b\-  a  projection  of  the  mountain  to  the  east. 


ver\'  ancient  origin, 


This    colony    is    said    to    be    of 
and     its     foundation     is 
ascribed    to    lepers, 
who  were  left  here 
b\'    a    ship     of    the 
Knights  of  Rhodes. 
Hence  the  name.    Until  two   de- 
cades   ago   Ospedaletti  ^      was 
only  a  simple  fishing 
Speculators,  how- 
ever, took  posses- 
sion   of    it    with 
the      object      of 
converting  it  into 
Monte  Carlo.     Hotels 
were    built    and    a 
"Casino",  which  was 
to     entice     "birds     of 
passage"   laden  with 
gold,  into  this  new 
••Roccolo".     But 
the  Italian  govern- 
ment    refused      '       tne  ucense         ^  ^, 
so     the    fine    buildings    erected    b^-    the    Credit 
Foncier  Lvonnais  are  now  used  as  Sanatoria.  The 
place  is  better  sheltered  from  winds  than  San  Remo, 


392  OSPEDALETTI. 


and  therefore  better  adapted  to  those  suffering  from 
chest  complaints.  At  the  same  time  its  views  are  limited 
owing  to  its  secluded  position.  Looking  landwards  only 
the  slopes  of  the  valley,  in  which  the  town  lies,  can  be 
seen,  and  the  views  along  the  coast  are  closed  to  the 
east  by  Capo  Nero  and  to  the  west  by  Cap  D'Ampeglio. 
In  this  recently  created  health  resort  everything  looks  so 
new  that  one  might  almost  imagine  them  to  be  theatre 
decorations.  And  yet,  thanks  to  the  extreme  mildness 
of  the  climate  and  the  money  spent  in  planting  large 
shrubs,  the  parks  are  already  flourishing  and  the  Palm 
trees  of  considerable  height.  Pretty  paths  lead  to  the 
top  of  the  slope  and  continue  through  luxuriant  Maquis. 
Many  a  fair  scene  is  disclosed  within  the  narrow  limit. 
Down  by  the  shore,  close  to  Cap  d'Ampeglio  lies  the 
beautiful  garden  laid  out  b\'  Ludwig  Winter  near  the 
Scheffel  Palms.  This  garden  has  developed  marvellously 
in  the  course  of  ten  years,  under  careful  management. 
It  has  become,  what  it  was  intended  to  be,  an  eminently 
artistic  creation. 

I  struck  into  the  path  to  Capo  Nero  up  to  Coldirodi. 
An  unassuming  little  church  stands  on  the  bare  and  lonel}' 
ridge,  not  very  far  from  the  entrance  to  the  village.  I 
directed  my  steps  first  to  it.  In  Italy  churches  and 
monasteries  are  always  built  on  spots  with  lovely  views. 
Perhaps  in  the  choice  of  a  site  an  unconscious  touch  of 
Nature  worship  may  have  been  mixed  with  the  religious 
sentiment.  This  little  church  too  is  most  beautifulh'  situated 
and  commands  a  view  over  all  the  green  valleys  and 
the  many  villages  facing  the  sea  between  Capo  Verde  and 


COLDIKODI.  393 


Cap  d'Ampeglio.  The  semicircle  of  high  hills  here  is  un- 
interrupted. I'hese  with  their  chief,  Monte  Bignone,  and 
his  vassals.  Monte  Caggio  and  Plan  Carparo.  def\-  the 
cold  north  winds.  On  the  other  side  of  Old  liordighera 
rise  the  familiar  peaks  above  tiie  coast:  there  the  green 
peninsulas  project  far  into  the  sea,  forming  deep  bays, 
and  in  the  mist^'  distance  the  eve  seems  to  discern  the 
jagged  outline  of  the  Esterel.  The  cjuaint  little  town  of 
Coldirodi,  with  its  crooked  streets,  reminds  us  strongly 
of  San  Remo  and  of  Taggia  and  Ceriana.  Blackened 
houses  built  of  stone,  buttresses  and  arches,  unexpected 
gaps,  through  which  one  looks  down  into  the  valle\s  or 
sees  the  top  of  a  mountain,  and  here  and  there  ruins  covered 
with  a  luxuriant  growth  of  vegetation.  For  the  last 
earthquake  destroyed  a  portion  of  Coldirodi.  But  this 
scene  of  desolation  is  decked  with  llowers.  the  bright 
arch  of  the  sk^•  is  above  it,  and  it  is  gilded  b\-  the 
splendour  of  tlie  southern  sun.  Through  Olive  groves 
we  descend  hv  a  stouA-  path  into  the  valle\'  of  San  Ber- 
nardo, with  the  picture  of  San  Remo  always  before  us. 
The  old  Olive  trees  are  so  weirdh'  beautiful  that  they 
rivet  our  attention,  and  \"et  it  is  necessar^'  to  look  down- 
wards, for  walking  on  the  smooth  round  stones  is  at 
times  a  veritable  g\'mnastic  exercise. 

CHAPTER  IX. 

On  the  morning  of  Palm  ^^unda^'  I  went  to  the 
llower  market  at  Xice  to  re\el  in  the  wealth  of  colour 
there.  Ever\-  spring  these  frail  things  lie  piled  up  in 
great  c|uantities.  doomed  to  an  earh'  death,  and  not  even 

16* 


394  FLOWER  MARKET  AT  NICE. 


certain  of  a  purchaser  to  take  compassion  on  them.  The 
nearer  mid-day  approaches  the  cheaper  are  the^'  offered 
for  sale.  Those  that  are  unsold  iind  their  way  to  the 
rubbish  heap.  Roses  of  various  colours  filled  the  bas- 
kets; bright  yellow  and  soft  white  Marguerites  were 
heaped  upon  the  tables.  Near  by  were  large  Iris 
Sussiaiia  mottled  with  grey  and  deep  violet,  which  the 
gardeners  have  called  "Lady  in  mourning". 

Next,  in  striking  contrast,  were  the  snow-white 
Ethiopian  Zantedeschias  (Z.  act/iiopica),  which  we  know 
as  Calla  aethiopica,  and  often  grow  in  our  rooms  at  home. 
Yellowish-brown  Wallflowers,  double  Stocks  of  all  shades, 
large  Violets,  Freesias  and  the  allied  Hyacinths,  Nar- 
cissi, Tazettas  and  Jonquils,  filled  the  air  with  their  frag- 
rance, while  among  them  large  bunches  of  dark  blue 
Cornflowers  were  conspicuous.  Besides  these  there  were 
Pinks  of  extraordinary  size,  and  brilliantly  coloured  Anem- 
ones on  every  stall;  and  lastly  close  by  there  were 
baskets  filled  with  sprays  of  orange  blossom. 

We  walked  up  and  down  between  all  these  flowers, 
unable  to  take  our  eyes  off  them,  and  undecided  as  to 
which  we  preferred.  When  a  purchase  was  at  last  de- 
cided upon,  a  crowd  of  women  surrounded  us  offering 
their  services  as  carriers.  And  even  when  the  basket 
was  filled  to  overflowing  the  temptation  to  buy  something 
more  was  hard  to  resist! 

In  front  of  the  Nice  churches,  even  on  this  morning, 
a  brisk  sale  was  being  carried  on.  In  the  fashionable 
parts  of  the  town  they  were  selling  etiolated  Palm  fronds 
with  plaited  pinnae,  also  crosses  made  of  the  same.    Be- 


PALM  SUNDAY  AT  NICE. 


395 


sides  these,  twigs  of  Box   and  of  Laurel  in 
bloom  were  offered  for  sale.     In  the  poorer 
quarters  of  the    town   Laurel    and   Box    pre- 
dominated, with  the  evergreen 
The  Laurel  (Fig.  25 1 )  fetches 
a  higher  price  if  its  branches 
bear  fruit  as  well  as  blossom. 
The    clusters    of   its  snia 
yellowish  tlowers  are   less     /  N\ 
striking     than     the    oval 
berries    which    are    the 
size    of    an  Olive    and  ' 

almost  black.     It    is       Z-^..  ^^ 
these  latter,  therefore.  ^' 

that  form  the  chief  ornament 
of  the  twigs  offered  for  sale. 
But    as    the    fruits     ripen    in 
autumn   it   requires    special 
care    to   keep    them  on  the 
tree  until  spring. 

It  was  beginning  to  get 
very     hot     in    Xice     on    that 
Palm  Sunda^'  and    I    decided 
to    seek  a    cooler    spot    in  one 
of  those  valleys  in  the  mountains 
which  can  now  be  so  easih'  reached 
de    France    railwaA-.      I    chose    the 
\'ar.  but  found  it  hardh'  any  cooler 
the  sea  shore.  Still  it  was  so  beautifully 
romantic    that     I     did     not    regret     my 


b\-  the  Sud 
(yorge  of  the 
than  down  b}- 

wild        and 

choice. 


396  THE   VAR   VALLEY. 

The  lirst  part  of  the  Hne  was  alreach'  known  to  us 
as  it  leads  to  Grasse.  The  vegetation  in  the  wide  valle^' 
of  the  Var  was  as  vet  but  little  advanced,  the  deciduous 
shrubs  appeared  more  bare  than  thev  were  at  the  corres- 
ponding time  last  rear.  But  the  glorious  distant  view 
of  the  snowv  Alps  from  Colomars,  and  the  sight  of 
those  old  grey  villages  poised  like  eagles'  evries  on  the 
rocks,  delighted  us  anew.  This  time  we  kept  to  the  left 
bank  of  the  \"ar  beyond  Colomars,  on  the  road  that 
leads  to  Puget  Theniers.  But  at  the  next  station,  the 
Pont  Charles-Albert.  I  left  the  train  to  continue  the 
excursion  on  foot.  At  the  same  time  several  gentlemen 
from  the  south  of  France  also  alighted  here  with  the 
intention  of  ascending  Mt.  V'ial,  5,110  feet  high.  Its 
summit  can  be  easih'  reached  from  Gilette,  six  kilometres 
distant  from  here.  Below  the  summit  is  a  cave,  the 
Balme  de  Touasc,  in  which  the  night  can  be  spent  so 
as  to  be  at  the  top  by  sunrise.  The  view  embraces  the 
whole  chain  of  the  snowy  Alps,  from  Mont  St.  Honorat 
to  the  Cima  del  Diavolo,  nearh'  the  entire  coast  of 
the  Riviera  di  Ponente,  and  the  sea  as  far  as  Corsica, 
These  gentlemen  invited  me  most  cordially  to  join  them 
in  their  excursion,  but  I  was  due  in  Nice  at  a  fixed  time, 
and  therefore  I  was  obliged  to  abide  bv  m^^  original 
intention.  I  followed  the  bank  of  the  Var  with  the 
gorge,  through  which  it  flows,  always  before  me.  To 
my  left  were  precipitous  rocks  with  ancient  villages  on 
their  summits.  Behind  these  rose  Mt.  Vial  in  a  suc- 
cession of  steps.  Near  the  mouth  of  the  ravine  a  stream 
of  water  gushes  out    from    the    rock.     It  is    water    from 


THE   GORGE  OF  THE  VAR. 397 

the  \  ar  wliicli  lias  been  drawn  off  higher  up  and  used 
to  <yenerate  power  tor  the  electric  trams  of  Xice.  At 
Le  Chiaudan  the  grandest  part  ol  the  road  commences. 
Here  the  wide  \'ar  valle^'  narrows  into  a  gorge,  through 
which  the  t(M'rent.  ]Tent  up  in  the  narrow  bed,  rushes 
violentlw  The  high  road  has  been  made  In'  blasting 
awa^■  the  rock,  the  railwa\-  going  for  the  most  part 
through  tunnels.  \\  e  walk  between  high  walls  of  rock 
whose  summits  are  lost  to  view.  The  strata  in  the 
Jurassic  limestone  of  the  ravine  are  strangeh'  contorted 
and  many  coloured.  The  torrent  has  undermined  the 
cliff  in  many  places  so  that  its  bed  is  not  seen  from  the 
road.  The  outline  of  the  rocks  varies  continually.  High 
peaks  move  past  the  opening  of  the  valley,  then  one  of 
the  fantastic  rock  \illages,  like  shifting  scenes.  One 
m  ore  turn  in  the  road  and  we  are  completely  hemmed  in 
on  all  sides  b}'  walls  of  rock.  We  can  see  only  the 
blue  vault  of  heaven.  The  leafless  trees  of  the  broad 
valley  of  the  \'ar  ceased  at  the  entrance  to  the  gorge 
where  the  vegetation  consists  mainly  of  evergreen  shrubs. 
Even  in  the  depths  of  winter,  on  sunn^-  da\'s,  the  ravine 
is  worth  a  visit,  for  these  plants  do  not  change  their 
aspect  in  winter.  The  Hox,  which  in  many  places  con- 
ceals the  light  coloured  rocks  here  with  its  dark  foliage, 
js  uncommon  in  the  local  flora.  The  yellow  Broom  grows 
where  it  produces  the  most  striking  effect,  and  the 
sweet  Molet  covers  some  of  the  slopes  in  such  abun- 
dance that  they  are  quite  blue.  Be\ond  La  Tinee  the 
narrow  valle\'  appears  to  be  shut  in  on  all  sides  b^■  mighty 
cliffs,  brighth'   coloured  in   red,  grey    and  white.     A  bold 


398  NICE. 

bridge  crosses  the  torrent  obliquely  and  we  reach  the 
spot  where  the  \"ar  and  the  Tinee  unite.  The  Tinee 
bursts  forth  from  a  narrow  rocky  opening,  and  as  the 
two  torrents  mingle  here,  the  place  is  called  "Mescla". 
Another  short  stretch  and  the  gorge  begins  to  widen. 
I  returned  to  the  station  at  La  Mescla  to  wait  for  the 
train  from  Paget  Theniers.  I  had  walked  slowly  and 
continuoush'  up  hill  more  than  nine  kilometres  from  Pont 
Charles  Albert. 

Nice  is  now  a  centre  for  numerous  electric  trams  that 
run  along  the  coast  as  well  as  inland.  Before  very  long 
they  will  connect  Mentone  and  Cannes  without  a  break. 
The  nature  lover  may  consider  this  an  improvement,  for 
in  these  cars  he  can  enjoy  uninterrupted  views  along  the 
coast,  and  suffers  less  from  motor  dust  than  in  an  open 
carriage.  This  spring  they  were  already  running  be- 
tween Mentone  and  Cap  Martin;  Beaulieu,  Nice  and 
Cagnes;  and  Antibes  and  Cannes;  not  to  mention  the 
lines  inland. 

Next  day  I  went  from  Nice  to  Beaulieu,  taking  the 
tram  part  of  the  way,  and  was  struck  by  the  large  number 
of  Opuntias,  (O.  monacantha),  all  along  Mont  Boron.  This 
Cactus,  a  native  of  Brazil  and  the  Argentine,  has  become 
a  formidable  rival  of  the  Opuntia  Ficus  Indica,  which 
has  been  naturalised  on  the  Riviera  di  Ponente.  Opuntia 
monacantha  is  beginning  to  predominate  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Nice  and  San  Remo.  Its  stem  is  dark  green, 
its  lobes  smaller  and  flatter  and  not  so  sharply  separated 
from  each  other  as  in  O.  Ficus  Indica.  It  has  larger  and 
whiter    spines    and    bears    an    abundance    of    fruit,    while 


MONT  BORON.  399 


O.  FicHs  liidica  seldom  fruits 
ill  this  country.  In  spite 
of  the  encroachment  in 
the  direction  of  \'ille- 
franche,  made  by  the 
Boulevard  Carnot,  the 
south-east  corner  of 
the  Mont  Boron  has 
still  some  remains  of  Maquis,  and 
c[uantities  of  Cistus  in  full  bloom  can 
be  seen  there.  On  damp  spots,  near 
the  road  above  Villefranche,  a  yellow 
Snapdragon,  Autirrhiuum  latifolmm  (Fig.  p.  v^3),  grows 
in  clumps  and  attracts  attention  bv  the  size  of  its  flowers. 
Galactites  toiucntosa  (Fig.  p.  1S7),  which  is  widely  distri- 
buted on  the  Riviera,  was  also  growing  here  in  abun- 
dance. It  is  a  Centaury  with  bright  violet  flowers  and 
is  remarkable  on  account  of  its  leaves  spotted  with  white 
which  look  as  if  sprinkled  with  milk. 

From  BeauHeu  I  struck  into  the  inviting  foot-path 
which  follows  the  eastern  shore  of  Cap  Ferrat.  A  strong 
wind  was  blowing  from  the  sea,  and  the  water  was  very 
rough.  Heavy  breakers  beat  against  the  rocks,  and  threw 
their  sprav  up  onto  the  path.  The  pretty  Cineraria 
maritima,  (Fig.  p.  77)  grew  evervwhere  on  the  garden 
walls.  Here  it  was  ver\-  luxuriant  and  stretched  its  sil- 
ver\'  gre\-  tufts  of  leaves  sea-ward,  for  it  loves  the  brinv 
breath  of  the  sea.  On  the  steep  rocks,  against  which 
the  waves  broke,  grew  the  greenish-grey  Anthyllis  Barba 
ifoz't's   (Fig.  p.  29);    this  too  revelled  in  the  salt  breeze. 


400  BEAULIEU. 


Great  masses  of  dead  Grasswrack  lie  heaped  up 
on  the  shore  in  the  bay  of  Beaulieu.  The  waves  now 
beat  furiously  on  this  bank  of  weed,  dashing  it  up  into 
the  air.  The  water  looked  as  black  as  ink  far  out  into 
the  bay.  Fancy  might  paint  such  a  sea  in  Hades  with 
its  waves  breaking  on  the  gloomv  shores  of  shadow-land. 
The  old  Olive  trees  on  the  shore,  with  their  weirdlv 
contorted  trunks  and  boughs,  would  be  in  keeping  with 
this  idea;  and  the  painter  Hoellenbrueghel  could  not  have 
wished  for  anything  more  fantastic.  Formerlv  Beaulieu 
could  boast  of  its  ancient  Olive  trees,  but  has  now  sac- 
rificed them  to  the  builder.  Two  of  the  largest  existing 
trees,  one  measuring  over  six  vards  in  circumference, 
can  be  seen  at  the  turn  of  the  road  in  front  of  the 
Hotel  Beaurivage. 

The  stretch  of  land  between  Beaulieu  and  Eza  is 
called  "Petite  Afrique".  It  is  certainly  the  warmest  spot 
on  the  western  Riviera,  and  probablv  the  warmest  along 
the  whole  coast  from  the  south  of  Spain  to  the  Gulf  of 
Salerno. 

CHAPTER  X. 

At  the  Cap  d'Antibes,  my  favourite  resort.  Herr 
A.  Sella,  tor  man}-  years  the  manager  of  the  Grand  Hotel, 
greeted  me  with  the  information  that  the  house  had  now 
come  into  his  possession.  He  took  over  at  the  same 
time,  not  only  the  ground  around  the  Hotel  but  also  the 
adjoining  park  that  had  hitherto  belonged  to  the  Eng- 
lish family  Close,  but  which  now,  as  "Park  Sella",  would 
be  open  to  the  visitors  at  the    hotel.     The  Grand   Hotel 


CAP  D'ANTIBES. 401 

clu  L"ap  has  lluis  upwards  of  sevent\'  hectares  of  hmd 
covered  with  Maijuis.  1  lerr  SeUa  lias  also  obtained  l<>r 
his  o-iiests  access  to  tlie  extreme  point  of  the  Lap,  on 
wliich  are  tlie  Nfoorisli  buildino-s.  I  was  delighted  to 
hear  this  news.  At  a  time  when  all  propert\'  on  the 
l\i\iera  di  I'onente  is  being  parcelled  up  into  petty  frag- 
ments, and  when  the  primitiv^e  vegetation  of  the  Medi- 
terranean region  is  fast  disappearing  all  along  the  coast, 
it  is  a  matter  of  congratulation  that  one  of  the  most 
fa\oured  spots  has  been  rescued  for  the  enjoyment  of 
those  who  delight  in  Nature.  The  Cap  too,  removed  as 
it  is  from  the  beaten  track,  and  with  its  hill\-  \vinding 
roads,  suffers  less  from  the  plague  ot'  motors  than  the 
large  towns  on  tlie  coast  which  are  connected  b\-  straight 
and  comparativeh'  level  roads.  May  the  Cap  d'Antibes 
long  attract  those  visitors  who  delight  in  tlie  scener\-  and 
the  botan\-  of  the  Mediterranean  region,  and  arc  in  search 
of  bracing  air  and  rest  on  the  Riviera. 

In  spring-time  the  peaks  of  the  Ahiritime  Alps 
are  often  veiled  in  cloud,  but  theA-  now  stand  out 
sharph'  against  the  clear  background  of  the  sk\'.  It 
was  alwa^•s  a  fresh  jo\-  to  me  to  look  from  the  window 
in  the  earh-  morning  at  the  snow^■  chain  of  the  Alps, 
and  to  see  how  the\-  changed  to  purple  in  the  light  of 
the  sunrise. 

I  alwa\s  went  out  earl\-  to  enio\'  the  magnilicent 
view  over  land  and  sea  from  the  hill  ot  Xotre  Dame 
de  Bon-Port,  often  returning  through  the  Maquis.  lUit 
I  found  that  it  is  not  alwa\"s  advisable  to  take  a  short 
cut  through  the  tangled    undergrowth.      You    may   come 


402  LIZARD   SNAKE. 


into  unpleasant  contact  with  the  spin-\-  Genista,  and 
perhaps  even  be  unable  to  move  backward  or  forward. 
An  unexpected  encounter  somewhat  startled  me,  for  as 
I  was  putting  my  foot  down  on  a  withered  branch  of 
Lentiscus,  a  snake  as  thick  as  my  wrist  and  nearly  live 
feet  long  swiftly  escaped.  Fortunateh-  I  had  not  trodden 
on  the  creature,  and  it  seemed  harmless,  for  it  went 
away  without  showing  any  sign  of  anger.  This  "Lizard 
Snake"  (Coelopeltis  I^acertina)  is  not  uncommon  at  the 
Cap  d'Antibes.  It  is  distinguished  from  all  other  Euro- 
pean snakes  by  its  deeply  hollowed  forehead  and  \)\  the 
scales  of  its  back  being  deeply  grooved  lengthwise.  The 
ground  colour  of  the  upper  part  is  olive-brown.  This 
snake  hisses  loudl}'  and  thus  often  frightens  those  who 
happen  to  come  across  it.  But  although  it  possesses  in 
each  jaw  a  large  sharp  tapering  fang,  its  bite  is  not 
dangerous.  From  the  moment  when  I  was  clear  about 
the  nature  of  this  snake,  I  felt  no  uneasiness.  It  did 
not  prevent  my  taking  further  rambles  in  the  Matiuis 
on  the  promontory.  Apparenth^  it  was  not  this  Lizard 
Snake,  but  another  yellowish  one,  Coluber  Aesc/ilapii, 
which  played  a  part  in  the  service  of  the  Greek  Aescu- 
lapian  temples.  The  Romans  introduced  these  reptiles 
to  Italy  and  the^-  may  also  have  brought  them  to  the 
German  Spas.  For  they  have  been,  and  still  are.  met 
with  in  German^-,  particularh'  in  the  vicinit\'  of  the  old 
watering  places,  such  as  Schlangenbad,  which  is  named 
after  them.  As  a  symbol  of  prophecy  this  serpent  is 
wound  round  the  staff  which  Aesculapius,  the  God  of 
healing,   bears  in  his  hand. 


NOTRE  DAME  DE  BON  PORT. 


403 


A  paved   road    leads    down 
from    Notre    Dame    de    Bon -Port 
in    the    direction  of    the  town  of 
Antibes.     The  cobbles  of 
this  road  have  become  so 
smooth    and     slippery     in     the 
course    of    time,    from    the 
feet  of  the  pilgrims  who  come 
here    on    the    S  th    of   June, 
that    it    is    onlv    with    dif- 
ficultv  that   one  can  keep 
a  foot-hold  on  them.    Now 
and  then  a    woman    ma}'  be 
seen    kneeling    before     one     of     the     shrines, 
otherwise    it    is    verv    solitarv    here    in    spring. 
No  devotee  comes  awav  from  the  shrine  with- 
out    sticking     into     the     wire     trellis     a    few 
evergreen    twigs  or    tiowers    culled    from    the 
Maquis.     Half   way  up  a  foot-path    turns    to 
the  left  along  the  slope.    We  now  pass  under 
the  shade   of  fine   old  Evergreen  Oaks,    the 
remains    of    an    extensive  grove,    where    it  is 
cool    and    refreshing    even    on    hot     days 
One  is  quite  withdrawn  from  the  world      / 
here,     and    can    pass    hour     after    hour 
without  seeing  a  human  creature.     Now 
and    then    a    branch    stirs    or   a  bird  hops 
up    and    looks    surprised     at    the    intruder. 

The  old  fortified  town  of  Antibes  (Fig. 
p.  1)  would  be  well  worth^•  of  preservation  as 


australis. 


404  ANTIBES. 

a  national  monument.  Nevertheless  it  has  been  handed  over 
to  speculators  who  decreed  that  the  walls  and  fortitications 
facing  landwards  should  be  demolished.  But  the  portion  of 
the  town  washed  by  the  sea  still  retains  its  mediaeval  aspect, 
and  there  are  plenty  of  spots  to  be  found  on  the  Cap, 
whence  this  splendid  picture  can  be  seen  in  a  suitable 
setting  against  the  dazzling  background  of  the  snows- 
Alps.  "Je  n'avais  jamais  rien  vu  d'aussi  surprenant  et 
d'aussi  beau"  exclaimed  Guy  de  Maupassant,  on  seeing 
Antibes  at  sunset.  These  are  the  opening  words  of  a 
little  novel  to  which  he  gives  the  title  of  "Madame 
Parisse".  This  picture  made  a  similar  impression  on  me 
the  first  time  I  saw  it  from  a  rock  near  the  shore  towards 
evening.  "The  little  town",  writes  Guy  de  Maupassant, 
"surrounded  by  massive  walls  built  bv  Vauban,  juts  out 
into  the  open  sea,  in  the  middle  of  the  vast  Gulf  of 
Nice.  The  crested  waves  break  at  her  feet  surrounding 
her  with  white  foam.  The  houses  crowd  one  upon 
another  above  the  fortifications,  right  up  to  the  two 
towers  that  rise  proudly  towards  the  sky.  And  these  houses 
and  towers  stand  out  against  the  milky  whiteness  of  the  Alps, 
that  giant  wall  that  closes  the  view  in  the  far  distance.  .  . 
The  blue  of  the  sk}-  above  the  Alps  is  so  faint  that 
the  snow  would  seem  to  have  robbed  it  of  its  colour. 
A  few  silvery  clouds  floated  above  the  pale  peaks  and 
on  the  other  side  of  the  Gulf,  at  the  water's  edge,  lay 
Nice,  forming  a  broad  belt  between  the  sea  and  the 
hills.  Two  boats  with  Lateen  sails  were  gliding  over 
the  waves  under  a  steady  breeze  ...  It  was  one  of 
those    sweet    and    rare    visions    that    impress    the    human 


ANTIBES.  405 

soul.  roinaiuinL;"  lil<c  tlie  menior\'  of  b^■gone  hliss.  We 
live,  we  think,  we  suffer,  we  are  impressed  and  we  are 
attracted  hv  sight.  And  he  who  is  capable  of  receiving 
deep  impressions  through  the  e\e,  can  feel  as  he  looks 
on  Xature  the  same  intense  enjoyment  as  the  musician 
who   listens  to  the  most   exquisite  harmonies'". 

The  town  of  Antibes  was,  it  seems.  originalK-  in- 
habited b\'  the  Ligurians.  It  was  called  "Deciatium"  but 
later  was  given  the  name  of  '•Antipolis".  as  the  to\Mi 
opposite  to  Massilia.  The  \'ia  Aurelia  passed  its  walls, 
and  the  twelfth  Legion  was  garrisoned  here.  After  the 
battle  of  Poitiers,  Antibes  fell  into  the  power  of  Clovis, 
and  later  was  sacked  and  pillaged  b^'  various  tribes, 
until  it  fell  into  the  hands  of  Henr\'  IV".  Recognising 
the  strategic  importance  ot  its  position  at  the  gates  of 
Provence,  he  bought  up  the  rights  of  the  Grimaldis 
and  other  Barons,  and  took  possession  of  the  place.  He 
intended  to  fortify  the  town ;  but  it  was  Richelieu  who 
first  began  to  'carr\'  out  these  plans  which  were  con- 
tinued b^'  \^auban  under  Louis  XI\\  and  onh-  completed 
in  the  lifetime  of  Louis  X\ \  The  inhabitants  of  Antibes, 
mindful  of  ro^■al  favour,  remained  good  Ro\'alists.  This 
the\'  still  proved  to  be  in  1S15,  when  Xapoleon  I  landed 
at  Golfe  Jouan  after  his  escape  from  Elba.  Xapoleon 
sent  Captain  Lamouret  with  one  lieutenant  and  sixteen 
Grenadiers  to  Antibes,  to  place  the  Imperial  Eagle  ^on 
the  fortifications.  But  the  Commandant  of  the  Fortress, 
Colonel  Cuneo  d"()rnano,had^  these  envo\'s  imprisoned 
and  forthwith  declared  the  town  to  be  in  a  state  of  siege. 
On  March    11*^  the\-  were  compelled  hv  Massena  to  hoist 


406 ANTIBES. 

the  Imperial  Standard  on  the  Fortress.  But  Louis  X\'III. 
was  grateful  to  Antibes  for  the  first  resistance  it  had  made 
against  Napoleon,  and  presented  the  town  with  a  new  coat 
of  arms,  bearing  gold  lilies;  and  besides  this  he  conferred  on 
the  town  the  privilege  of  calling  itself  his  "bonne  ville''. 

\"auban's  "Fort  Carre"'  still  stands  unimpaired  on 
the  other  side  of  the  harbour  of  Antibes.  Like  a  gigantic 
starfish  cast  up  on  the  shore,  this  bulwark  stretches  out 
its  bastions  towards  all  points  of  the  compass.  Often 
have  I  been  lost  in  contemplation  ot  this  lovely  scene 
late  in  the  day  when  the  setting  sun  tinged  the  snow 
of  the  Alps  with  rosy  red,  and  the  fort,  already  deeply 
steeped  in  the  dark  shadows  of  evening,  was  silhouetted 
against  the  clear  background  of  the  mountains.  I  either 
wandered  along  the  sea-shore  bA'  the  roadstead  of  Antibes 
or  sat  down  on  the  further  side  of  the  old  cemeter^^  and 
gazed  on  the  view  through  a  setting  of  tall  and  ancient 
Cypresses. 

The  nurser\-  gardens  of  Mlmorin  -  Andrieux  are 
well  worth  a  visit.  The  entrance  is  just  above  the 
Villa  Thuret  on  the  main  road  leading  from  Antibes  to 
the  point  of  the  Cap.  This  plantation  is  devoted  to  the 
rearing  of  special  kinds  of  seeds.  In  the  spring  the 
extensive  green-houses  on  the  terraces  of  the  gardens, 
which  slope  down  towards  Golfe  Jouan,  are  chiefly 
stocked  with  Primulas  and  Cinerarias.  The  plants  under 
cultivation  are  all  show  specimens:  each  plant  resembles 
the  other  in  every  respect.  The  eye  is  quite  dazzled 
by  the  brilliant  colours  of  the  Cinerarias.  The  two 
species  of  Primula    cultivated    here  in  countless  varieties 


PRIMULAS.  —  MAQUIS. 


407 


of  shape  and  colour  are  Primula  sinensis  and  ohconica. 
We  have  recenth'  been  warned  about  these  Primulas,  as  the 
resinous  secretion  of  their  hairs  may  cause  serious  affections 


of     the 
all  alike 
of      the 
told    me 
had  only 
in        very 
time  it  is  best, 
possible,  to  avoid 
these  plants  which 
used  for  decoration, 
and     not     to    bring 
them    near    one's   face. 
All  the  plants  and 


skin    and   ejes.     But    it    was    evident   that 

are  not  affected  b}-  the  poisonous  hairs 

Primula,  for  the  Director  of  the  gardens 

that    amongst    his     subordinates     he 

heard     of     this     trouble      occurring 

the  same 


shrubs  in  the  Maejuis 
were    in    full    bloom    again    at 
the  Grand  Hotel    du  Cap,    and 
we     could     once     more     repose 
undisturbed     on     a     soft    bed     of 
Ah'rtle  and  inhale    the    spic\'  frag- 
rance   of   the    sweet    herbs    and  the 
pure    sea    air.      The    lovelv    Op/irys 
Bertolonii  (Fig.  p.  313)  with  the  "wee 
bird  looking  at  itself  in  a  glass''  grew  in 
great  numbers  in  the  new  park,  and  on 
the  roadside  was  the  singular  Tragopoo-on 
austral  is  (Fig.  p.  403)  a  plant  verv  like 
our   Salsif\',    with  dark    violet,    terminal     Tidtpa  ciusiana. 


408 MAQUIS   AT   ANTIBES.     

flower  heads  on  a  bare  stem,  surrounded  by  the  green 
involucre.  The  Spanish  Broom  Spartuim  junceum, 
(Fig.  p.  395)  is  so  abundant  in  this  portion  of  the  Maquis 
that  whole  tracts  are  covered  with  it.  A  wealth  of  large 
golden-vellow  pea-flowers,  poised  on  slender  branches, 
contrasts  with  the  blue  of  the  skv.  The  Pointe  de  ITslette, 
in  that  part  where  the  pseudo-moorish  buildings  stand, 
is  planted  with  a  collection  of  shrubs  as  incongruous  as 
the  architecture.  Thev  have  destroyed  the  Maciuis  bushes 
and  replaced  them  hx  Cupressiis  macrocarpa,  PittosporiDu, 
Medicago  arhorca.  Agaves,  Iris  and  JMesouhrxantJiouuiu 
aciuacefornie.  It  seems  as  if  thev  had  intended  to  make 
experiments  in  acclimatisation  here,  to  ascertain  which 
foreign  plants  could  best  resist  such  an  exposed  situation. 
Pittosponim,  the  large  fruited  Cypress  and  the  Mesem- 
bryanthemum  have  been  very  successful.  One  wonders 
at  their  powers  of  resistance,  on  such  ston\-  ground,  to 
the  winds,  the  fine  sea-spra^"  and  the  continued  drought. 
Not  only  do  thev  endure  it  but  they  flourish.  A  gardener 
would  indeed  be  necessary  to  help  the  indigenous  vege- 
tation to  re-assert  its  rights.  Let  us  hope  that  the  time 
is  not  far  distant  when  the  '"Islette"  will  again  be  clothed 
in  the  fragrant  beauty  of  the  jMae|uis !  A  few  native 
plants  have  held  their  ground  on  the  further  end  of 
the  point,  and  at  present  there  grow  vonder. 
Cistus  (Fig.  p.  (S3)  and  Oleaster:  jVh-rtle  and  Lentiscus 
(Fig.  p.  349)  spread  out  like  cushions ;  while  the 
silvery  grey  foliage  of  JJcIic/irysinn  and  the  bright 
yellow  blossoms  of  the  Bird's  foot  Trefoil  adorn  the 
ground.     But  the  paths    on    this    rugged    strip    of    rocky 


AlARINI-:    I'LANTS.  409 


huul  are  the  one  permanent  atlvantai^e  of  this  over- 
ciillix  ation.  These  extend  to  its  Inrther  end  and  make 
it  possible  to  reacli  the  wild  cHffs  which  disappear 
beneath  tlie  waves.  I  lere  xou  can  climb  from  rock  to 
rock,  until  at  last  \our  feet  touch  the  blue  water.  There 
one  can  lie  down,  gazing  into  the  crystal  depths,  and 
sp\'  out  the  curious  plant  torms  which  the  sea  contains, 
and  listen  to  the  music  of  the  waves  which  lose  them- 
selves amongst    the    lalnrinthine    passages    of  the  rocks. 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Plants  are  not  found  at  so  great  a  depth  in  the 
sea  as  animals  because  of  the  conditions  necessar\' 
for  plant  life  for  the\'  require  light  to  assimilate  the 
substances  on  which  they  live,  while  animals  are  less 
dependent  on  light.  For  plants  utilise  the  ra^•s  of  the 
sun  to  convert  inorganic  substances  into  nourishment. 
They  transform  the  energy  of  the  light  into  cliemical 
action  and  are  thus  able  to  separate  carbonic  gas  into 
its  elements,  ox^•gen  and  carbon ;  and  also  to  divide 
water  into  its  two  component  parts,  oxygen  and  hydrogen. 
The^•  build  up  in  their  organisms  carbo-h\'drates  out 
of  carbon,  ox\gen  and  hydrogen,  particularly  sugar  and 
starch,  which  they  need  for  the  support  of  life  and  for 
forming  their  tissues.  The  assimilation  of  carbon  takes 
place  in  the  green  portions  of  the  living  cell  substances. 
This  granular  chlorophyll  gives  our  landscape  its  green 
appearance.  Hut  amongst  marine  plants  we  meet  with 
other  colourings  also.  If  \  ou  walk  along  the  shore  of 
the  Mediterranean  after  a  storm,    \ou  will    see   not  onU' 


410 MARINE  PLANTS. 

green  sea-weed  but  also  brown  and  red  thrown  up.  On 
a  ramble  along  the  roclcA"  shore  at  the  Cap  d'Antibes, 
when  the  sea  is  calm.  "\'ou  will  be  struck  by  the  same 
variety  in  the  colours  of  the  marine  vegetation,  and  by 
the  wealth  of  their  forms.  Many  of  the  plants  can  be 
reached  by  hand  and  pulled  from  the  stones  on  which 
they  are  growing.  Branched  green  threads  predominate 
near  the  surface  of  the  water:  the^'  hang  down  loosely 
in  thick  wisps  when  the  tide  leaves  them  bare ,  and 
separate  again  into  fine  threads  when  a  new  wave  reaches 
them.  They  belong  to  the  genus  Claydophora  (Fig.  p.  Ill) 
which  is  here  represented  by  numerous  species.  In  shallow 
places  grows  the  ribbon-like  Ulva,  a  green  Alga  on 
which  the}'  often  serve  oysters  in  Italy.  Many  other 
brown  plants  are  found  near  the  water's  edge  but  they 
are  different  from  those  which  we  meet  with  on  the 
coasts  of  the  Baltic  and  the  North  Sea.  There  we  find 
the  various  species  of  Fiictis,  Bladder-wracks  with  tough 
leather}-  forked  and  ribbon-shaped  thallus.  Here  the 
bushy  Cystoscira  (Fig.  p.  137)  with  cylindrical  branches, 
grows  abundantl}^  In  the  shady  crevices  of  the  rocks 
we  find  beautiful  red  species  of  varied  and  often  elegant 
forms.  These  are  all  plants  which  we  class  together 
as  Algae.  The  other  divisions  of  the  plant  world  are 
onl}-  represented  bv  a  few  submarine  species,  such  for 
instance  as  the  Posidouia  occaiiica,  a  Ligurian  Grass- 
wrack  that  predominates  on  the  Riviera,  often  form- 
ing whole  meadows  in  the  shallow  bays  of  the  Medi- 
terranean sea.  With  this,  here  and  there,  is  found  the 
small-leaved  Zostera  marina  which  bears  the  unpoetical 


GRASS -WRACK. 


411 


name  of  "Mattress  Grass-wrack",  because  it  is  much  used 
in  more  northerly  latitudes  for  upholstery.  In  Venice  it 
has  been  employed  for  ages  to  pack  the  glass  ware  and 
thus  obtained  the  name  of  ^l/o-a  1  Itrarioniju.  Posidonia 
oceanica  is  also  used  in  Ital}-.  here  and  there,  for  packing, 
and  in  North  Africa  they  thatch  roofs  with  it.  Both 
plants  belong  to  the  Pond  weeds  or  Potamogetonaceae, 
and  are  monocotyledonous  Phanerogams.  Ligurian  Grass- 
wrack  grows  at  a  far  greater  depth  than  the  Zostera. 
In  shallow  water  its  leaves  ma^■  be  seen  waving  to  and 
fro  like  grass  in  our  meadows  when  stirred  by  the  wind. 
In  the  bav  between 
of  Antibes  and  the 
projecting  Cap,  Posi- 
donia grows  in  such 
quantities  that  the  shore 
is    heaped    up    high 


Vihurntim    Tintif 


412 MARINE   PLANTS. 

with  its  torn  off  leaves.  It  is  not  advisable  to  walk  over 
these  heaps,  for  they  give  way  under  the  weight  of  the  body 
and  one  sinks  deeply  into  the  wet  leaves.  To  the  west  of 
the  Cap,  on  the  sands  of  Golfe  Jouan,  round  balls  of  a 
light  brown  colour  and  fibrous  structure  are  often  found. 
These  used  to  be  seen  in  chemists'  shops  under  the  name 
of  "pilae  marinae''.  They  are  loose  pieces  of  the  root- 
stock  of  Grass-wrack  covered  with  the  fraved  remains  of 
leaves.  These  are  tossed  about  on  the  beach  hv  the 
waves  and  formed  into  balls  a  decimetre  in  circumference. 
Plant  life  in  the  sea  does  not  descend  lower  than 
1,150  feet.  Below  260  feet  it  decreases  rapidly  even  in 
the  southern  seas,  for  at  this  depth  the  light  is  too  dim 
to  maintain  vegetable  growth.  By  means  of  photographic 
plates  Fol  and  Sarasin  proved  that  in  the  Mediterranean 
sea,  eighteen  miles  from  the  coast  of  the  Riviera,  there 
is  still  a  ver^-  faint  light  action  at  a  depth  of  1,530  feet. 
Other  investigators  state  that  this  action  of  light  can, 
under  certain  conditions,  exist  3()0  feet  lower  down.  But 
the  assimilation  of  carbon  bA*  the  plant  has  long  before 
this  become  impossible,  especialh'  as  the  composition  of 
the  light  changes  with  the  depth.  Of  the  various  col- 
oured rays  of  the  spectrum,  the  red  and  yellow  are  first 
absorbed,  and  the  blue  and  violet  last.  If  a  beam  of 
sunlight  be  allowed  to  pass  through  a  tube  a  ^'ard  and 
a  half  long  filled  with  pure  water,  the  red  colour  will 
have  already  completely  disappeared,  the  ^-ellow  will  be 
but  feebh'  represented,  and  the  green  \vill  be  the  most 
brilliant.  Near  the  surface,  in  sea  water,  green  and  blue- 
green  rays  predominate,   while  the  red  and  yellow  have. 


.MAKIMC    I'LANIS.  413 


in  a  oreat  measure,  disappeared.  The  water  has  ab- 
sorbed tliem.  Tliosc  wlio  have  been  to  the  bhie  ( xrotto 
of  Capri  will  remember  the  li^j^ht  effect  that  lends  it 
sucli  a  magic  charm.  'I^he  lii^ht  in  the  (jrotto  is  so  blue 
because  it  lias  passed  tlirough  a  considerable  dcj'jth  of 
water,  wliicli  has  absorbed  tlie  other  ra\s.  But  accord- 
ing to  the  physicist,  Heinrich  Kayser,  the  green  (jrotto 
of  Capri  owes  its  colour  to  the  fact  that  the  bottom  is 
level  and  consists  of  yellow,  calcareous  rock.  As  the 
red  raws  of  light  are  so  rapidly  absorbed  b^'  the  water 
we  can  understand  wh\'  red  star-lish  do  not  look  red 
but  black  at  a  certain  depth.  For  there  is  no  longer 
sufficient  red  light  to  be  strongh-  retlected  by  them. 
Green  land  plants  utilise  chiefly  the  red ,  yellow  and 
orange  rays  of  light  in  the  process  of  assimilation.  But 
water  soon  absorbs  these  rays.  The  depth,  in  seas  or 
lakes,  at  which  photographic  plates  are  affected,  gives 
per  se  little  information  about  the  possibility  of  plant 
life  at  these  depths,  for  it  is  chiefl\-  the  blue  and  violet 
rays  that  affect  photographic  plates.  The  rapid  disap- 
pearance in  the  water  of  those  rays  necessary  to  green 
plants  would  have  limited  the  zone  of  vegetation  still 
more  had  not  the  Algae  adapted  themselves  in  a  sin- 
gular manner  to  their  surroundings.  Besides  the  green 
colouring  matter,  which  the  landplants  contain,  the 
Algae  possess  a  red  one,  which  enables  them  to  employ 
other  light-ra\s  for  the  work  of  assimilation.  These 
plants  of  the  deep  have  assumed  a  colour  which  is 
complementar\-  to  that  of  the  light  which  reaches  them. 
Those  Algae,    therefore,    which    grow    in    the    shallows. 


414 MARINE   PLANTS. 

and  so  live  approximateh'  in  the  same  light  as  our  land 
plants,  are,  like  them,  green.  The  further  from  the  sur- 
face the  deejDer  the  red  becomes.  But  in  narrow,  rocky 
crevices  and  caves,  where  the  plants  depend  chietiy  upon 
indirect  light,  the  red  Algae  approach  the  surface.  In 
several  of  the  Grottoes  of  Posilipo  at  Naples  the 
red  Algae,  which  usually  grow  at  a  depth  of  between 
160  to  200  feet  in  the  open  sea,  can  be  gathered  by 
hand.  The  dark  brown  colour,  bA'  which  many 
Algae  are  characterised,  does  not  serve  the  same  pur- 
pose as  the  red.  It  is  supposed  that  this  brown 
colouring  matter  acts  as  a  screen  and  diminishes  the 
force  of  the  sunlight.  Thus  the  brown  Sea -wracks  of 
the  Mediterranean  often  grow  up  to  the  surface,  and  in 
our  Northern  seas  we  find  at  low  tide  quantities  of 
Fucus  in  the  open  air,  braving  the  direct  ra^s  of  the  sun. 

These  shade-loving  Marine  Algae  are  very  sensitive 
to  bright  light.  This  was  proved  hv  Berthold  who 
found  that  at  a  depth  of  from  260  to  360  feet  in  the 
Gulf  of  Naples  there  was  too  much  light  for  them,  and 
the^'  therefore  suffered. 

At  Capri  Berthold  obtained  fine  and  well  developed 
Algae  at  a  depth  of  from  400  to  430  feet,  showing  that 
the  lowest  range  of  their  habitat  was  not  reached. 
This  is  remarkable  when  we  consider  that  great  white 
disks  sunk  into  the  Mediterranean,  when  it  is  calm  and 
sunn\',  disappear  from  view  at  a  depth  of  from  165  to 
200  feet. 

It  may  be  asserted  that  the  deep  sea  fauna  begins 
approximately  where  plant  life  ceases.    It  continues  down 


DEEP  SEA  FAUNA. 


415 


into  profound  abxsses  surpassinij;"  in  depth  the  lieight  of 
the  loftiest  mountain  ranges  on  the  face  of  the  earth. 
Sounding's  taken  in  tlie  nortli  west  of  the  Pacific  Ocean, 
near  the  Mariana  Ishuids,  showed  a  depth  of  31,790  feet, 
this  being  the  greatest  depth  ever  reached  in  the  ocean 
up  to  the  present.  This  exceeds  the  height  of  Mt. 
Everest,  the  most  loft\-  peak  of  the  Himalayas,  b\'  about 
2,900  feet.  The  deepest  part  of  the  Mediterranean 
(14.320  feet)  is  reached  to  the  south  of  the  Peloponnesus; 
the  configuration  of  its  bed  is  ver^•  varied,  and  ex- 
hibits many  deep  troughs  and  hollows  '•v  formed  b\-  the 
sinking  of  the  ground.  —  As  far 
have  been  able  to  reach  with  our 
animal  life  has  always  been  found, 
ures  live  in  regions  where  no  ra\' 
penetrates.  But  darkness  does  not 
supreme  in  those  depths,  for  the\' 
alh-  illuminated  by  the  creatures 
Many  primitive  forms, 
especially  numerous  worms, 
crustaceans,  cephalopods 
and  fish,  phosphoresce 
witli  various  coloured 
lights;  accordingly  these 
creatures  of  the  deep  are 
not  blind,  but  are 
possessed  of  e^es, 
often  of  striking 
size.  —  The 
diversity  of    '      the  Algae  continualK-    \' 


down  as  we 
instruments, 

'fhese  creat- 
of  light  ever 
always  reign 
are    macfic- 


I  i/rx  .  \rr/i//s-i:as/iis. 


416  SEA-WEEDS. 


surprises  and  delights  those  who  begin  to  study  them.  These 
plants  present  a  far  greater  variety  of  shapes  than  the  land 
plants  which  surround  us;  especialh'  the  Rhodophyceae 
which  abound  in  the  Mediterranean.  There  are  species 
of  red  Algae  which  consist  only  of  fine  threads;  others 
whose  various  branches  unite  to  form  a  definite  structure, 
as  CalithaniNion  roscittn  (Fig.  p.  57).  Others  again  are 
flat  and  branched  in  different  ways,  as  ^^itophxlhim  puiic- 
tatiDii  (Fig.  p.  307);  some  resemble  lichen,  as  Pe\sson)ielia 
Squauiaria  (Fig.  p.  331);  and  lastly  some  remind  us  of 
highly  organised  plants,  as  Delessen'a  JIvpog-losszi/ii.  In 
some  cases  the  resemblance  is  so  striking  that  an  un- 
practised eye  might  be  deceived  as  to  their  classification 
in  the  \^egetable  World.  Next  to  the  red  Algae  is  a 
group  of  green  ones,  the  vSiphoneae,  which  are  very 
attractive  on  account  of  their  elegance.  Amongst  these 
are  species  {Bryopsis,  Fig.  p.  5i)  branched  like  our  Hyp- 
num,  others  {Haleiucda,  Fig.  p.  221)  that  resemble  small 
Opuntias,  and  others  again  {Acetahularia,  Fig.  p.  9) 
that  look  like  slender  bright  green  Toadstools.  But  what 
most  strikes  anyone  wandering  on  the  sea-shore  after  a 
storm  is  a  dark  green  ball  {('odiiiiu  bursa,  Fig.  p.  113), 
which  may  be  the  size  of  an  orange  or  even  of  a  child's 
head.  This  also  belongs  to  the  Siphoneae.  I  have  often 
seen  quantities  of  it  in  the  Ba^■  of  Villefranche.  It  is 
filled  with  sea-water,  and  as  this  soon  evaporates,  the 
ball  shrinks  and  forms  a  cap.  Of  the  brown  Algae, 
Cystoseira  (Fig.  p.  137)  is  the  commonest.  Next  we  have 
the  bushy  Sphaccllaria  (Fig.  p.  399)  and  Padina  Pavonia 
(Fig.  p.  319)  which,    clinging    to    the    rocks    in    crowded 


SEA -WEED   COLLECTING.  417 

masses.   niin-]it   he  taken   lor  iiuissels.     The  people  call  it 
"Orrechio   d\    Mare",  sea  ear. 

When  staxino-  b\  the  Mediterranean  it  is  instructive 
to  make  a  small  collection  of  Algae.  This  provides  an 
attractive  object  for  walks  and  excursions  on  the  sea 
shore.  These  new  plants  cultivate  our  sense  of  form  and 
enlarge  oiu"  preconceived  ideas  of  vegetable  structure. 
When  the  sea  is  calm  we  can  cut  the  Algae  off  the  rocks 
with  the  sharpened  edge  of  a  wide-meshed  nickelled 
sieve,  fastened  oblic[uelv  to  a  stick.  \\'e  bring  them 
home  in  a  glass  jar  and  place  them  in  a  bowl  of  sea- 
water.  Fresh  water  must  not  be  used  as  it  injures  the 
Algae.  We  then  place  each  specimen  in  a  very  Hat  dish, 
like  those  used  to  develop  photographs.  The  sea-water 
in  this  must  be  perfecth'  clean.  We  must  not  take  too 
large  a  spra\-.  otherwise  the  fronds  will  overlap.  ^V  sheet 
of  white  paper  should  then  be  slipped  under,  and  the 
Alga  carefullv  spread  out  on  it,  taking  care  to  preserve 
its  natural  appearance.  Paper  and  Alga  are  then  taken 
out  of  the  water.  The  Alga  must  now  be  dried  with 
blotting  paper,  and.  to  prevent  it  sticking  to  this  latter, 
it  is  necessar\'  to  cover  the  ^Mga  with  a  piece  of  calico, 
or  better  still,  a  bit  of  gauze.  The  blotting  paper  must 
be  frequent! \-  changed,  for  the  plant  will  lose  its  colour 
unless  dried  rapidh-.  The  drying  must  take  place  under 
considerable  pressure,  therefore  the  blotting  paper  must  be 
put  between  two  boards  and  weighted  with  a  large  stone. 
In  dr\ing,  salt  will  cr\'stalise  on  the  Alga  and  the  paper. 
This  salt  must  be  removed,  otherwise  it  will  constantl\- 
absorb  moisture  from  the  atmosphere,    l^o  get  rid  of  the 


418  SEA- WEED  COLLECTING. 

salt  the  dried  specimens  must  be  plunged  quickh'  into  fresh 
water  and  again  dried  between  blotting  paper.  It  can  then 
be  added  to  the  collection.  How  beautiful  the  specimens  of 
such  a  collection  are,  and  how  well  the}'preserve  their  struc- 
ture and  colour  may  be  seen  from  the  illustrations  of  ^  ito- 
ph  yUwiipuiictatuin  (Fig.  p.  307)  and  JJclcsseria  Hypoglossuui 
(Fig.  p.  169),  which  were  drawn  from  dried  specimens. 
If  a  bowl  of  sea-water  containing  Algae  be  shaken 
in  the  dark,  small  flashes  of  light  will  be  seen  in  it.  This 
is  caused  by  luminous  creatures  which  rest  on  the  Algae 
and  emit  sparks  when  disturbed.  The  Algae  themselves 
do  not  phosphoresce,  but  many  of  them  have  a  curious 
sheen  in  daylight  and  a  wonderful  brightness  due  to 
reflection.  Certain  cell-contents  of  these  Algae  are  so 
constituted  and  disposed  that  the\'  act  like  concave  mirrors. 
In  the  Mediterranean  the  finest  effects  are  to  be  seen  in  the 
genus  Chylocladia,  Rhodophyceae  with  whorled  branches, 
which  shine  blue,  silvery-white  or  pink,  and  are  sometimes 
iridescent.  The  brown  Cestosira  also  displays  many  colours 
when  the  waves  move  it  to  and  fro  in  the  sunshine. 

CHAPTER  XII. 

A  very  strong  Mistral,  that  generally  set  in  towards 
midday,  kept  the  sky  clear,  and  we  reached  the  second 
half  of  April  without  rain.  On  the  20  th  the  sun  sank 
behind  the  Esterel  in  a  clear  sk}',  but  higher  in  the 
heavens  long  streaks  of  cloud  had  gathered.  Soon  they 
were  tinged  with  red,  and,  imparting  their  colour  to 
Golfe  Jouan,  made  the  crested  waves  quite  rosy.  The 
sky  in  the  west,    beyond    the    mountains,    turned  a  deep 


FAREWELL.  419 


glo\vini:C  orantje:  before  long  the  oraiifre  clianged  to 
purple  and  threw  blood  red  spots  upon  the  sea.  In  this 
lurid  lifjht  a  shado\v\'  bark  o-lided  silenth'  throui^h  the 
water,   reminding  one  ot  the   ferrv  boat  of  Charon. 

I  quitted  the  sea-shore  and  ascended  slowly  to  the 
hotel  through  the  avenue  of  Pines  and  Eucahptus. 
Their  foliage  appeared  black  against  the  brilliant  back- 
ground of  the  sky.  Here  and  there  red  streaks  of  light 
gleamed  between  the  branches,  resembling  lire.  Gradu- 
ally the  colours  paled  and  the  wisps  of  cloud  assumed  a 
bluish-gre\'  tint,  leaving  onU'  their  edges  golden.  In  the 
west  the  orange  tones  lasted  longer,  then  changed  through 
light  yellow  to  the  bright  green  of  the  zenith.  The  sea 
turned  a  steely  grey,  then  dull  and  black,  and  numerous 
lights  appeared  along  the  shore.  The  great  beacon  of  the 
lighthouse  traced  its  wide  circle  over  land  and  sea.  The 
clouds  gathered  in  denser  masses,  till  only  isolated  stars 
peeped  down  through  the  open  portals  of  heaven. 

Next  morning  it  began  to  rain.  The  dr^'  earth 
eagerly  drank  in  the  water  of  which  it  had  been  so  long 
deprived,  and  the  plants  raised  themselves  towards  the 
refreshing  drops.  A  sudden  fall  in  the  barometer  indi- 
cated a  long  spell  of  rain.  We  did  not  grudge  it  to 
this  parched  district,  which  had  languished  long  months 
for  want  of  water,  or  to  these  thirsty  plants  tliat  had 
been  compelled  to  satisfy  themselves  with  dew.  But 
the  time  had  come  for  us  to  return. 


17 


CONTENTS. 


Page 

Preface    to  the  first  edition VII 

Preface   to  the  second  edition VIII 

Introduction XI 

Suggestions  about  tours   and  time  of  year XI 

The  climate  of  the  Riviera XII 

Climatic  conditions XIII 

Shelter  from  the  wind XIII 

Less  sheltered  resorts XIV 

The  Esterel  range XV 

The  Montagues  des  Maures XV 

Temperature XV 

Number  of  sunny  days XVI 

Rain XVI 

Changes  of  temperature XVI 

List  of  lUustrations xviii 


FIRST  JOURNEY. 


The  weather 

Bordighera 

Sunrise 

Monte  Nero  ...... 

Sasso 

Olive  groves 

Olive  harvest 

Olive  Oil 

Origin    and    distribution    of 

the  Olive  tree    .     .     .     . 

"La  chasse",  Shooting    .     . 


Page  I  Page 

1  Spring  flowers    .....  14 

2  ;    The  Vine 16 

2  Distribution   of  the  Vine     .  17 

3  Origin  of  the  Vine      ...  18 

6  Wines  in  ancient  times  .     .  19 

7  Wine-growing 21 

8  Date  Palms  at  Bordighera  .  23 

9  !    Date  Palms,  their  treatment  26 

Date  Palms,  their  fruits       .  28 

12  Fruits    of    Phoenix    melano- 

14             carpa 30 


CONTENTS. 


421 


Pa-e 

Other  Palms 30 

Mentonc 33 

Gorbio  valley 34 

Richness  of  the  flora  ...  35 

St.   Agnese 36 

Judas  tree 38 

Road  to  the  Pont  St.  Louis  38 

Gardens  by  the  road  side   .  38 

The  bridge 40 

The  ravine 44 

La  JMortola    Gardens  ...  44 

Plant-treasures  of  the  garden  45 

Profusion  of  flowers  in  spring  46 

Acacias 46 

Highly  perfumed  plants  .     .  47 
Perfumed    and    armed  legu- 
minous plants     ....  48 

Casuarinas 48 

Eucalypti 49 

Agrumi,  species  of  Citrus  .  51 

Home  of  the  Agrumi      .     .  52 

Freaks 62 

Bizzarria 62 

Hybrids  ;  grafting   ....  62 

Cytisus  Adami 63 

Mentions  of  hybridisation  by 

grafting  in  ancient  times  64 

Other  opinions 65 

Wigandia     caracasana     and 

Echium  frutescens      .     .  66 
The  Laurel    in  religion  and 

superstition 67 

Camphor  tree 69 

Cinnamon  tree 69 

Otherplantsof  theLauraceae  70 

"Midshipman's  butter"     .     .  70 

The  Egyptian  Persea       .     .  70 
Mummy  wreaths     .... 

Tropical  fruit  trees     ...  71 

Guavas 71 

Kaki  fruits 72 


I'apTC 

Ebony  wood 73 

Mango  tree 73 

'Pepper  tree" 73 

True  Pepper 73 

Japanese  lacquer  plants  .     .  73 

Zizyphus  Lotus 74 

Lotophagi 74 

Plants  known    as    Lotos    in 

ancient  times     ....  74 

Zizyphus  spina  Christi    .      .  75 

The  Crown  of  Thorns     .     .  75 

Caper  bush 75 

Nightshades,  Solanaceae      .  76 

Aubergine 7'> 

Cannibals'  Tomato       ...  76 

Umbellates 77 

Ferula  communis     ....  78 

Ferula  in  legend     ....  78 

Asa  foetida 78 

Japanese  Medlar     ....  79 

Other  Rosaceae       ....  79 

Panama  wood 79 

Carob 80 

Carat  weight 80 

Coloured  Irises' 81 

Tea  tree 82 

Coffee  tree 83 

Khat  plant 84 

Mate 84 

Kola  nut 84 

Camellia,  Rhododendron,  and 

Azalea 84 

Sweet  scented  Balsams  .     .  84 

Storax 85 

Jewish  incense 85 

Myrrh 85 

Myrrh  of  the  Egyptians.     .  85 

Incense 85 

Indigo  plants 85 

Coniferae     of     La    Mortola 

Gardens 86 

17* 


422 


CONTENTS. 


Page 

Cycad  and  Palm  fronds  .     .  87 

Palms  of  La  Mortola      .     .  87 

Bamboo 87 

Bamboo  uses  of,     ...     .  87 

Tabashir 90 

Rapid  growth  of  the  Bamboo  9 1 

Saccharum 91 

Sugar  Cane 92 

Sugar  refinery 93 

Sugar,  production  of  .     .     .  93 

Cane  sugar 93 

Palazzo     Orengo     and     the 

plants  surrounding  it       .  94 

Pergola   with  climbers     .     .  96 

Cypresses  of  La  Mortola     ,  97 
Walk  on  the  Strada  nazionale 

to  Mentone       ....  98 
Striking     plants     of    Italian 

landscape 99 

Garavan 101 

Stimulants  and  luxuries  from 

the  vegetable  world  .     .  102 

Tea 102 

Coffee 104 

Cocoa 107 

Cocain 110 

Cloves Ill 

Nutmeg 113 

Cinnamon 113 


Page 

Pepper 114 

Ginger 114 

Rotite  de  la   Corniche  .      .      .  113 

La  Turbie 116 

Eza .117 

Nice 117 

Cap  d'Antibes 118 

Antipolis,  the  present  Antibes  120 

Notre  Dame  de  Bon-Port    .  121 

Grand  Hotel  du  Cap  .     .     .  121 

CHffs  of  the  Cap    ....  122 

Maquis  or  Garigue      .     .     .  123 

Plants  of  the  Maquis       .     .  123 

Pointe  de  I'lslette  ....  136 

Garden  plants    at  the  Hotel  136 

Aleppo  and  Maritime  Pines  138 

Procession  caterpillars     .     .  139 

Sea  storm  at  Cap  d'Antibes  140 

Road  across  the  Cap       .     .  142 

Flower  growing       ....  142 

Eilen  Rock 146 

Thuret  Gardens       ....  146 

Pine-wood  at  Golfe  Jouan  .  147 
Walk   to    the    lighthouse    of 

Antibes 147 

Plants  by  the  road-side  .     .  147 

View  from  the  lighthouse   .  148 

Sunset 149 


Climatic    conditions    on 

Riviera 151 

Hyeres 151 

Stoechades 153 

Former    Orange    cultivation 

at  Hyeres 154 

Palms  of  Hyeres     ....  156 

Old    descriptions    of    Hyeres  157 

Maurettes 158 


SECOND  JOURNEY 

the 


Chastel  d'Yeres       .     .     . 

158 

Troubadours  ..... 

159 

Castle  in  a  storm  .     .     . 

159 

Mo7itagnes  des  Maurcs  . 

160 

Geology  and  Orography 

160 

Cork  Oak  woods    .     .     . 

161 

Cork  industry      .... 

162 

Formation  of  Cork 

164 

Spanish  Chestnuts        .     . 

165 

CONTENTS. 


423 


rage 

Bonnes 166 

Lavandou 166 

Manufacture  of  bottle  corks  167 

Use  of  cork  parings  .  .  .  167 
Sealing    of     amphorae     and 

casks  in  ancient  times    .  168 

67.    Tropcz 168 

Road  to   La  Foux  .     .     .     .  173 

La  Garde  Freinet  .  .  .  .  173 
Along     the      coast     to     St. 

Raphael 174 

Frejus 176 

St.  RaJ>hael 179 

The  Esterel 182 

Excursion  to  Mont  Vinaigre  183 

Valescure 183 


Page 

Malpav        185 

On    the     summit     of    Mont 

Vinaigre 188 

Auberge  des  Adrets    .     .     .  189 

Vallon  de  la  Cabre     .     ,     .  191 

Agay 192 

Malinfernet 194 

St.  Aigulf 196 

Le    Tray  (IS 198 

Fishing  by  night     ....  200 

Cap  Roux 202 

Ste.  Beaume  d'Honorat  .     .  203 

Summit  of  Cap  Roux      .     .  208 

Pic  d'Aurele 210 

Roman  Roads 210 

Coast  Road  to  Agay  .     .     .  212 


THIRD   JOURNEY. 


Cannes  

215 

View  from  Hotel  Californie 

217 

Rambles  on  the  heights 

219 

Le  Cannet 

220 

\'allauris 

222 

lies  de   Lerins 

223 

lie  Ste.  Marguerite      .     .     . 

223 

Iron  Mask 

223 

Character  of  vegetation 

227 

Crossing  to  St.  Honorat 

228 

Lerina 

229 

St.  Honoratus 

229 

Monasterv  on  St.   Honorat 

229 

Old  Castle  and   its  Flora     . 

234 

Violets  in  ancient  times 

234 

Character  of  vegetation 

235 

lie  St.  Fereol 

236 

Legend  about  Paganini  .     . 

237 

Sunset  from  Ste.  Marguerite 

240 

Cannes,  its  history  and  devel- 

opment       

240 

Agave  industry 

244 

Formation    of    the    inflores- 
cence of  Agave  and  Four- 

croya 245 

Intoxicating  beverages  from 

Agave  sap 246 

Aloe-wood 247 

Croix-des-Gardes     ....  248 

Villa  La  Rochefoucauld       .  248 
Excursion  to  the  Cap  d  'An- 

tibes 249 

Effects  of  sunHght       .     .     .  249 

Jouan  les  Pins 252 

Cap  d'Antibes    .....  252 

Cap  Martin 253 

Paths  on  Cap  Martin      .     .  254 

Vegetation 254 

("hanging  lights       ....  255 

Points  of  view 258 

Olive  grove 259 

Climate 259 

Moonlight 261 

Storm  from  the  North     .     .  263 


424 


CONTENTS. 


FOURTH  JOURNEY 


Page 


Road    from    Ventimiglia    to 

Mentone 

Mentone 

Maquis,  remaining  at  Mentone 
Convent  of  the  Annonciade 
Ridge  of  Castellar       .     .     . 
Valley  of  Gorbio     .... 

Sanatorium 

Shooting  range  above  Gorbio 
Fig  tree,  its  history    .     . 
Fig  tree,  its  varieties 

Caprifig 

Caprification 

Fig  trees  in  Germany      .     . 
Structure  of  the  Fig 
PolHnation  and  fructification 
Part  played  by   wasps 

Smyrna  figs 

Smyrna     figs,     their     intro- 
duction  into   the  United 

States   

Number  of  varieties  of   Fig 
Varieties  of  Fig  at  Nice 
Nutrient  value  of  the  Fig    . 
Figs     as     food      in     ancient 

times 

Parthenogenesis      of     Ficus 

hirta 

Wild  and  half-wild  Fig  trees 

Date  Palms,  introduction  of 

the  best  varieties  into  the 

United  States     .... 

European  fruits  in  the  United 

States    

Pollination  of  Arisarum  vul- 

gare 

Pollination  of  Arum  Italicum 
Phyllosiphon  Arisari  .     . 
Moonlight  at  Garavan     .     . 


265 
266 
266 
266 
266 
268 
268 
268 
269 
270 
270 
270 
271 
271 
272 
273 
274 


275 
275 
276 
276 

276 

278 
279 


279 

280 

281 
281 

282 
282 


Page 
Description  of  the  moon  bv 

Pliny 283 

Colouring    of    the    sea    and 

its  cause 284 

Depth  of  the  Mediterranean 

sea 286 

Temperature    of  the    water 

of  the  Mediterranean      .  286 
Tamarisks    by  the  Mediter- 
ranean         287 

Castor-oil  plant  at  Mentone  287 

Castor  oil 288 

Phosphorescence  of  the  sea  289 
Luminous  organisms  of  land 

and  sea 290 

Plankton 291 

Luminous  Bacteria      .     .     .  291 

Phosphorescent  fish  and  flesh  292 

Causes    of  phosphorescence  292 
Safety     lamps     made     with 

luminous  Bacteria .     .     .  294 

Baussi  Rossi  and  caves  .     .  294 

Prehistoric  discoveries     .     .  294 

Railway  from  Nice  to  Grasse  295 
The  valley  of  the  Var    .     .296 

Vence 297 

Grasse 297 

Origin  of  the  town     .     .     .  298 

Perfume  industry     ....  299 

Bouquets 299 

Origin  of  perfumery    .     .     .  299 
Chemical     manufacture      of 

perfumes 300 

Natural  products     ....  303 

Ethereal  oils 303 

Ethereal  oils,  extraction    of.  304 

Distillation 304 

Maceration    with    liquid   fat  304 

Absorbtion  by  cold  fat   .     .  304 


CONTKNTS. 


425 


Fajrc 
Manner     of    obtaining    and 

clarifying  fat      ....  305 

\'iolet  perfume 306 

Extraction    by    Petrol -etlier  30b 

"Violet  root" 30/ 

Sandal-wood 308 

Orange  flowers 309 

iSIanufacture  of   pomade  on 

a  small  scale      .     .     .     .  312 

Oil  of  Roses 312 

Reseda 316 

Lavender  and  Rosemary  oil  316 

Eau  de  Cologne      .     .     .     .  318 

Jasmine 320 

Tuberoses 321 

Flower  perfume  at  different 

times  of  day      .     .     .     .  321 

Cucumber  scent,    Garlic  oil  322 


Page 

Spirits  of  Hartshorn  in  per- 
fumery   322 

Ethereal  oils  as  poisons  .  323 
Ethereal  oils,  their  oxidation,  323 
Susceptibility    of    the    sense 

of  smell 324 

Flower     growing      on      the 

Riviera 325 

Perfuming    of    the    body    in 

ancient  times  ....  326 
Manufacture  of  unguents  in 

ancient  times  ....  327 
Excessive    use    of    imguents 

in  ancient  times  .  .  .  329 
Wreaths  at  drinking  feasts  330 
Luxury  in  ancient  times  .  331 
Perfumes    at    the  courts    of 

France  and  England  .     .     334 


FIFTH  JOURNEY 


Xervi 338 

Marine  parade 339 

The  sea 340 

Pliny's  praise  of  the  earth  .  341 
Michelet's      impression      of 

the  sea 342 

Former    conditions     on    the 

Ligurian  coast  ....  344 

Nervi  sheltered  from  the  wind  346 

Old  descriptions  of  Nervi    .  346 

Xervi's  development    .     .     .  347 

Plants  an  index  to  climate .  348 

Plants  on  the  beach  .  .  .  351 
Excursion  to  Monte  di  Porto- 

fino 352 

Plants  on  the  promontory  .  353 

Maquis 354 

Botanical  knowledge  of  the 

Ligurians 357 

San  Fruttuoso 357 


Slaughter  of  birds  in  Italy 
Legend  of  San  Fructuosus 
Sea  trip   to  Portofino       .     . 

Portopiio 

Its  history 

Madonna  del  Capo  .  .  . 
Monastery  of  Cervara     .     . 

Sestri  Levantc 

Climate 

Vegetation 

Villa  Piuma 

Telegrapho 

Santa  Anna 

Mountain  Road   from  Chia- 
vari  to   Rapallo.     . 

Zoagli 

Entella 

San  Salvatore 

The  Fieschi 

Excursion  to  Bracco  . 


358 
361 
363 
364 
364 
365 
365 
366 
367 
367 
368 
369 


374 
375 
375 
375 
376 
377 


426 


CONTENTS. 


Page 

Geology  of  the  Levante      .  3/9 

Iberian-maritime  plants  .     .  379 

Cinque    Terre 380 

San  Remo 382 

Appearance  of  theVegetation  383 

Villa  Evelina 383 

Via  Berigo 384 

Romolo  Valley 384 

Old  Town  of  San  Remo     .  385 

East  end  of  San  Remo  .     .  388 

Capo  Verde 388 

Bussano 389 

Taggia   Valley 389 

Intarsiatore 390 

Lemon  Trade 390 

Ospcdaletti 391 

Capo  Nero 392 

Coldirodi 393 

Nice 393 

Flower  Market 393 

Palm  Sunday 394 

Excursion  to  the  Gorges  of 

the  Var 395 

Electric  Trams  at  Nice  .     .  398 

Opuntias  on  Mont  Boron    .  398 

Beaulieu 398 

Cap   Ferrat 399 

Petite-Afrique 400 


Page 

Cap   d'Antibes 400 

Grand  Hotel  du  Cap  ...  400 

Notre  Dame  de  Bon-Port    .  401 

Lizard  Snake 402 

Shrines 403 

Wood  of  Evergreen  Oaks   .  403 

Town  of  Antibes    ....  403 

Fort    Carre 406 

Nursery  gardens  of  Vilmorin- 

Andrieux 406 

Primulas 407 

Maquis  near  the  Grand  Hotel  407 

Pointe  de  L'Islette       ...  408 

Sea  Plants 409 

Conditions  of  their  existence  409 

Varieties 410 

Grass-wrack 411 

Balls  of  Grass-wrack  .  .  412 
Absorbtion  of  light  in  water  412 
Colouring  of  Algae  depen- 
dent upon  depth  of  water  413 
Deep-sea  Fauna  .  .  .  .  414 
Wealth  of  forms  in  Algae  416 
Collecting     and     drying     of 

Algae 417 

Mistral 418 

Evening  lights 419 

Change  of  weather     .     .     .  419 


INDEX. 


Acacia,   cultriformis,    144. 
„         dealbata,   144. 
„  Farnesiana  (Fig.  p.  5),  46, 

320. 
Acacia,  horrida,  4". 
„  Julibrissin,   47- 

„  retinoides,    144. 

„         Senegal.  Gum  Arabic,  47. 
Acetabularia    mediterranea,    (Fig. 

p.  9.),   416. 
Adam's  Apple,  55. 
Adiantum    Capillus    Veneris  (Fig. 

p.  13),  35. 
Adrets,  Auberge  des,   189. 
Agaricus  melleus,  290. 
Agathon  portus,    194. 
Agave,  94,  99. 

„  americana,  244. 

,  central  shoot  of,   246. 

„  inflorescence,    rapid  deve- 

lopment of  the,  245. 
„         Mescal,  246. 
„  Pulque,  246. 

„  Salmiana,  94. 

Agay,   191,   192. 
Agel,  Mont,   11". 
Agnese,  St..  34,  36,  269. 
Agrumi,  51. 

,,  yield  of  fruit,  60. 

Aigulf,  St.,   176,   182,   196. 
Alant,  351. 
Albizzia  Julibrissin,  47. 


Aleppo  Pine,   138. 
Alga  vitrariorum,  411. 
Alligator  Pear,  70. 
Allium,   145. 

„         neapolitanum,   16. 
Aloe,  see  also  Agave,  94,  244. 
Aloe-wood,  244. 
Alyssum  maritimum,  266. 
Amber  tree,  85. 
Ampeglio,  Cap  d',  2,  392. 
Ampelodesmos  tenax,  356. 
Amphorae,  bunging  of,    168. 
Andropogon  citratus,  316. 
„  muricatus,  303. 

„  Nardus,  316. 

Anemone  coronaria  (Fig.  p.  1/),  16. 
„  pavonina  (Fig.  p.  21),  16. 

stellata   (Fig.  p.  25),    16. 
Anemones  34,    143. 
Angst,  Hotel,  5. 
Anisaldehyd,    191. 
Annonciade,  convent  of,  266. 
Anthocaris    Euphenoides    (Fig.  p. 

143),   142. 
Anthyllis  Barba  Jovis  (Fig.  p.  29), 

39. 
Antibcs^  view  of  (Fig.  p.  1),    403. 
405. 
„  Cap  d'.  flower  growing  at, 

142. 
„  Cap  d'.  gardens  of,   118, 

141,   252,   4(10. 


428 


INDEX. 


Antibes,   Cap  d',  Grand  Hotel  of, 

120,  136,  400,  407. 
„          history  of,   405. 

„  town  of,  403. 

„         Notre  Dame  de  Bon-Port, 

121,  401,  403. 

,         Cap    d',     Oriental    buil- 
dings at,  253. 
Antipolis,   120. 

Antirrhinum  latifolium  (Fig.  p.  33). 
Apennines,  3y"'7. 
Apples,  34. 

„  of  the  Hesperides,  59. 

Aquilaria  Agallocha,  24". 
Aranci,   59. 
Araucaria.  86. 
Arbor  Vitae,  368. 
Arbutus  Unedo    (Fig.  p.  37),    131. 
Arctotis  aspera,   40. 
Argens  river,    177- 
Arisarum  vulgare  (Fig.  p.  41),  280. 
,,  „  pollination       of, 

281. 
Arum    arisarum,     see     Arisarum 

vulgare. 
Arum,     temperature    of    inflores- 
cence 281. 
„  italicum ,     pollination     of, 

281. 
Asa  foetida,  79. 
Aspalathus,  48, 
Asparagus  acutifolius  (Fig.  p.  45), 

132. 
Aspergillum,   67. 
Asphodels,   188. 
Asphodelus  albus,   188. 

„  ramosus    (Fig.  p.  49), 

Atmosphere,    clearness   of  on  the 

Riviera,  251. 
Atriplex  Halimus,   148. 
Aubergine,  76. 
Augustus,  Tower  of,   116. 


Aurele,  Pic  d',  186,  199,  204,  210. 

Plage  d',   186,  212. 
Aurelia.Via,  173.  186.211.364,375. 
Aurelian  roads,  210,   186. 
Aygulf,  St.,  see  St.  Aigulf. 
Azaleas,  84,  348. 

Bale  des  Anges,    119,   120. 
Bacteria,     influence    of    light    on, 
249,  250. 

luminous,  291,   292. 
Balsams,  84. 

Balsamodendron  abyssinicum,   85. 
Bamboo,  87. 

.,  healing    powers    of,    90. 

„  uses  of,  87,  88. 

„  growth  of,  91. 

Bambusa  arundinacea,  87- 
Banksia  marcessens,  96. 

„         Rose,  97. 
Bar,  Le,  297. 
Barbier,  Jules,   182. 
Barnisotte  blanche,  276. 
Baussi  Rossi,  294. 
Bazaine.  226. 
Beaulieu,  399. 
Beet  Sugar,  see  Sugar. 
Bellone,  276. 

Bennet,  garden  of  the  late  Dr.,  98. 
Benzadehyd,  300. 
Bergamot,  oil  of,   61,  310. 
Betel  nut,  31. 
Bignone,  Monte,  385,  390. 
Bignonia  oxymoides,  oil  of,  74. 
Birds,  shooting  of,   14. 

„        netting    and  destruction  of 
in  Italy,  358. 
Bird's  foot  Trefoil,   135. 
Bitter  Almond,  oil  of,    300. 
Bizzarria,  62,  65. 
Blastophaga  grosorum,  277. 
„  Javana,  278. 


INDEX. 


429 


Blastophagae,  2/8. 

Horigo,   valley  of,  33. 

Honson.  296. 

/iordi'i^/icrd,  2,  3. 

Bordighera,  climate  of,  6. 

Bors^hetto,  valley  of,   6, 

Bormes,   166. 

Boswellia,  species  of,  85 

Bougainvillea,    40,  97,  216. 

Bouillabaisse,  recipe  for,   1/2 

Bouquets,  mixture  of  perfumes,  299. 

Box,  28,  395.  397. 

Bracco  377,  378. 

Brahea  Roezli,  32. 

Bramble,  356. 

Bravades,  241. 

Bresca,  family  of,  25. 

Broad  Bean,  its  history,  349. 

Broad  Beans,  348. 

Brogiotto  bianco,  276. 

Broom,    187. 

,         species  of,   48. 
Brown  Algae.   410.   414. 
Bryopsis,   416. 

„  plumosa  (Fig.  p.   53). 

Buck-fig.  270. 
Buckthorn,  254,  354. 
Buddha's  Hand,  62. 
Buddleia  Lindleyana,  39. 
Bussano,  389. 
Butcher's  Broom,    133. 

Cabbe-Roquebrune,  38. 
Cabre,  Vallon  de  la,   191. 
Cacciatori.    14. 
Caffein,    103. 
Cafetiers,   56. 
Cafta,  84. 
Caire  Agnel,   296. 
Caggio,  Monte,  4. 
Calamus  Rotang,  88. 
Calcareous  plants,   163. 


Callithamnion  roseum  (Fig.  p.  57), 

416. 
Callitris  quadrivalvis,   52. 
Calycotome  spinosa,  (Fig.  p.  61), 

128,   194,  356. 
Camellia,  origin  of  Name,  82,  84. 
„        Thca, native  country  of,  82. 
Camogli,  352. 
Camphor  tree,  69. 

,,  oil  of,  301. 

Cananga  odorata,  303. 
Canary  Date  Palm,    see    Phoenix 

Canariensis,  30,   31. 
Candytuft,    192. 

Cannes,  original  appearance  of,  242. 
history  of.    240.  243. 

„         road     to    the    Cap    d'An- 
tibes,  249,  251. 

,       -Eden.  222. 
Cannet.   Le,   220. 
Capers,  75. 

Caper  bush,   see  Capparis. 
Capparis  spinosa,  (Fig.  p.  65),  75. 
Capri,  grottoes  of.   413. 
C.-iprification  270,  274,  277. 
Caprificus,  270. 

„  its     introduction     into 

California,    275. 
Caprifig,  see  Caprificus. 
Carat,  80. 

Carei,  valley  of,   33. 
Carnations,  see  Pinks. 
Carnauba  Palm,   32. 
Carob  tree,  see  Ceratonia. 
Caroubier,  80. 
Carros,   296. 
Casuarina,  48,   138. 
Cassie.  321. 
Castellar,  34.  266, 
Castor  oil.  288. 

,     plant,  288. 
Catha  edulis,  84. 


430 


INDEX. 


Caves  near  Mentone,  294. 

Cavi,  373. 

Cedrat,   55. 

Cells,  discovery  of,  in  cork,    164. 

Celtis  australis,  74. 

Centranthus  ruber,  (Fig.  p.  71),  98. 

Ceratonia  siliqua,    80,  261. 

Cercis  siliquastrum.  38, 

Cervara,    monastery  of,  362,  365, 

366. 
Cetroni,  58. 
Chamaerops,  species  of,  30 

„  uses  of,   30,  32. 

„  excelsa,  30. 

„  humilis,   30. 

Charles-Albert,  Pont,  396. 
Chasseurs  Alpins,  268. 
Chaste!  d'Yeres,   158. 
Chenopodium   Quinoa,    110. 
Chiaudan,  397. 
Chiavari,  365. 

Chiavari-Rapallo,  road,   373. 
Chinois,  61. 
Chokoladl,    118. 
"Christ's  Acacia"   75. 
Chrysanthemum     frutescens,      42, 

136,   145. 
Cineraria  maritima  (Fig.  p.  "i"]),  35 1 . 
Cinnamon,  69. 

„  tree,  69,  303. 

Cinnamomum  camphora,  69. 

„  .,       ceylanicum,  69,  303. 

Cinque  Terre,  379,  380. 
Cistuses,   127,   128,   147,   194,235, 

267,  356. 
Cistus  albidus    (Fig.  p.  83),     127, 

194,  235. 
Cistus  monspeliensis  (Fig    p.  89), 

127,  235. 
Cistus  salviifolius  (Fig.  p.  95),  235. 
Citrangulum,   58,  59. 
Citral,  302. 


Citronelle,  315. 
Citron,  54. 

„       oil,  302. 
Citruli,  58. 
Citrus,  51, 

„      species  of,  native  country,61. 

„      aurantium      var.      Buddha- 
fingered,  62. 

„      Bergamia,  61. 

„       Bigaradia,  309. 

„       decumana,  57. 

„       fruits,  freaks  of,  62, 

„  „       as    an   antidote,    53. 

„       to  keep  off  moth,  53, 

„      legends,  53. 

„      the  name,  53, 

„       origin  of,  52,  53, 

„      medica,  54. 

„       nobilis,  introduction  of,  60, 

„       trifoliata,    61. 
Cladonia  alcicornis,   134. 
Cladophora,  410. 

„  laetevirens  (Fig.p.  101). 

Clearness    of  the  atmosphere    on 

the  Riviera,  251. 
Clematis,   175. 
Cleopatra,   142. 

Climbing  plants  at  La  Mortola.  96. 
Clove,  history  of.    111. 

„        monopoly  of.    112. 

„        origin  of,    112. 

„        tree.    111. 
Cneorum  tricoccum,   (Fig.  p.  107), 

113,  254. 
Cnethocampa  Pitocampa,   139. 
Coca  leaves,   1 10. 
Cocain,   110. 
Coca  chewing,   110. 
Cocos  australis,  31. 

„       flexuosa,  31. 

„        nucifera,  31, 

_        Romanzoffiana,  31. 


INDEX. 


431 


Cochineal,   132. 
Coconut  palm,  31. 
Cocoa,   lO/". 

„        its  introduction,    108. 

„       tree,   107- 

„       nibs,  in  Mexico,   108. 
Codium  Bursa,  (Fig.  p.  113),  416. 
Coelopeltis  lacertina,  402. 
Coffee,   102,   104. 

„        its  introduction,    104. 

„       tree,  82. 

„       tree,  cultivation  of,    104. 

„        houses,    104. 

.,       substitutes  for,    106. 
Coffea  arabica,  82. 

„       liberica,  83. 
Cogolin,    173. 
C'ola  acuminata,    84. 
Cold-cream,  322. 
Coldirodi,  4,  384,  392,  393. 
Colomars,  296,  396. 
Colonia  Octavianoruni,    176. 
Colour  of  the  sky,  286. 

„        of  the  sea,  284. 

„        of  Marine  Algae,  413. 
Coluber  Aesculapii,  402. 
Convolvulus    althaeoides    (Fig.  p. 

119),   148. 
Copernicia  cerifera,   32. 
Coquero,    110. 

Coriaria  myrtifolia,  (Fig. p.  125),  98. 
Corn-flowers,   145. 
Corniche,  Route  dc  /a,    115. 
Corsica,  2,  3, 
Coronilla  emerus,   355. 
Cork,   164. 

„        cambium,    164. 

„       carpet,   167. 

„        formation  of,    165. 

„        injuries  in  bark.    164. 

„        method    of  obtaining,     164. 

_       industrv,   162,   170. 


Cork  Oak.   161. 

„      woods,    161. 
„      use  of  scraps  of,    167. 
„      use  of  in  ancient  times,   168. 
Corks,  making  of,   162,   167. 
Corylopsis  du  Japon,  299. 
Corypha,  31. 
Cosson,  Ravine  of,  297, 
Cougourda,  Caire,  296. 
Cours  d'  Amour  of  Provence,  159. 
Court  of  Love     „  „  159. 

Crane's  Bill,  38. 
Croce  della  Mortola,  98. 
Croisette,  223,  240, 
Croix-des-Gardes,  248. 
Crown  of  Thorns,  75. 
Cucumber,  scent  of,  322. 
Cumarin,  300. 
Cumin,  304. 
Curry,   79. 
Cycads,    86. 
Cycad  leaves,  87. 
Cypress,  42,  99,    408. 

„         wood  of,    368. 
Cypresses,    34,  97,  367. 
Cystoseira  ericoides  (Fig.  p.  137). 
Cystoseiras.   410,  416. 
Cytinus  Hypocistis    (Fig.  p.    157), 

127,   147,  235. 
Cytisus  Adami,  63. 

„         Laburnum,  63. 

„         purpureus,  63. 

„  triflorus  (Fig.  p.  131).  355. 

Dacus  Oleae,    14. 

Dame's  Violet.  234. 

Dammara,  88. 

Dao-fin,  364. 

Daphne  Gnidium  (Fig.  p.  163),  267. 

Date  Palm,  24. 

„  „        hybrid    with  Phoenix 

canariensis,  30. 


432 


INDEX. 


Date  Palm,  treatment  of,  26. 

„  „         Christian,  26. 

„  „         cultivation  of,  28. 

„  „         fruits,  28. 

„  „         development    of,    29. 

„  „         Jewish,  26. 

„  „         canary,  30. 

„  „         in  the  United  States, 

280. 

„  „        uses  of,  26,  32. 

Datura  sanguinea,    "7- 
Deipnosophists,  54. 
Deiva,  Val  di,  3//. 
Delesseria    Hypoglossum    (Fig.  p. 

169),   416,  418. 
Delphini  Portus,  364. 
Demasclage,    164. 
Diamonds,  weight  of,  80. 
Dianthus  caryophyllus  flore  pleno, 

143. 
Diospjros,  species  of,  72. 
„  Ebenum,  73. 

„  Kaki,  72. 

Diosma,  fragrans,  47. 
Dipterix  odorata,    300. 
Distillation,   process  of.  304. 
Distilleries  ambulantes,  318. 
Docteurs   en  soupers,    114. 
Domatia,    129. 
Domitia,  Via,   186. 
Dorias,  tombs  of  the,  360,  362. 
Dramont,  le  Piton  du,    193. 
Drehrohre,  39. 
Dwarf  Palm,  30. 

Earth,  Pliny's  praise   of  the,  341. 

East  wind,   180. 

Eau  de  Cologne,  318,  319. 

Eau  de  la  Reine  de  Hongrie,  319. 

Ebony  wood,  73. 

Ecballium  Elaterium,  236. 

Echium  frutescens,  66. 


Egg-plant,  76. 

Eilen  Rock.    146. 

Eleonore  Louise,  Chateau  of,  244, 

248. 
Emilia,  Via,  210. 
Enfleurage,  306. 
Entella,  375,  376. 
Epicureans,    114. 
Erica   133. 

„       arborea  (Fig.  p.  175),   133. 
Eriobotria  japonica,  79. 
Erythroxylon  Coca,   111. 
Escalle,  Ravin  d',    195. 
Esterel    Range    (Fig.   p.    XI),     41, 
119,  122,  180,  182. 
„  roads,   185. 

Ether,  in  perfumery,  305. 

„        fumes,  use  of  in  forcing,  338. 
Ethereal  oils,  300. 

„  „       extraction  of,  304. 

„  „      poisonous  effects  of, 

323. 
„  „       composition  of,  324. 

„  „       ozone  in  the  air,  324. 

Eucalyptus,  49. 

„  amigdalina,  height  of, 

49. 
„  globulus,  49. 

„  „  flower-cap  of, 50. 

„  „  extracts  from, 50. 

„  „    growth    of,    50. 

„  Gunni,  51. 

Eucharius,  St.,  206. 
Eugenol,  301. 
Eugenia  caryophyllata,   III. 
Euphorbia  dendroides,    43,    130. 
„  spinosa   (Fig.   p.    181), 

130,   188. 
Euphorbias,  94,   187,   194. 
„  shrubby,  43. 

Eygulf,  St.,  see  Aigulf. 
Eza,   117. 


INDEX. 


433 


Fat,  in  perfumery.  304; 
Fat  oils,  303. 
i^^emale  Cork,   162,   165. 
Fennel,  Giant,  78. 
I'^east  of  Tabernacles,  2",   35. 
Fereol,  He  St.,  236,  237. 
Ferula  communis,  78. 
nodirtora,  227. 
„         Scorodosma,  78. 
„         Legends  of,  78. 
Festival  bouquets  of  the  Jews,  27, 
Fichi  d'India,    100. 
Ficus   Carica,   269,  275. 
hirta.  278. 
„        Ruminalis,  269. 
Fieschi.  376. 
Fifth  Journey,  337. 
Figs,  270,   271. 
Fig,  pollination  of,  272,  273. 

„     Italian,  272,  274. 

„     value  as  food,  276. 

„     parthenogenesis,  278. 

„     Smyrna,  273,  274. 

„  „         in  the  United  States, 

275,  279. 

„     tree,  34,  99,  269. 

„         »     Jr^  Germany,  271. 

„         „     propagation  of,   274. 

„         „     wild,  279. 

„     varieties  of,  273,  275. 

„  „  „     near  Nice,    276. 

„     Wasps,  272. 
"Fig  informers'",   276. 
Fig-marigold,   40. 
First  Journey,    1 . 

Flower-growing  at  Antibes,    1 42. 

„  „  at    Grasse,    325. 

Flowers,    perfume  of    at  different 

times  of  day,  321. 
Forcing,    338. 
Forum  Julii.    176. 
I'ossan,  vallev  of.  33, 


Fourcroya,  duration  of,   245. 

„  longaeva,   245. 

Fourcro\as,  94. 
Fourth  Journey,  265. 
Fraxinetum,    174. 
Freesias,  81. 

Freinet,  La  (Jarde.   173,   174. 
Frejus,   176,   177?   178. 
Fruits,    European,    in  the  United 

States,  2S0. 
Fruttuoso,   San,   354,  357,  360. 

„       Abbey     of,     362. 
„  „      legend    of,     361. 

Gaillarde,  La,    175. 
Galactites  tomentosa  (Fig.  p.  187). 
Gandarena,  Gola  di,  221. 
(raraviin,  38,    101,  289,  294. 

H6tel  d'ltalie,  101,  282. 
moonlight  at,   282, 
Garland  of  Justification,  71. 
Garlands,  use   of  in  ancient  times 

at  banquets,   135,  330. 
Garlic,    Oil  of 
Garigue,    123. 
Gattieres,  296. 
Gaultheria  procumbens,   300. 
Gelas,  Cima  di,  322. 
Genista  acanthoclada,    48,   128. 

„         ferox,   138. 

„         monosperma,  48. 
Geranium  oil,  315. 
Germander,  39. 
Giant  Feimel,  78. 
Ginger,    114. 
Giranda,  Cima.    296. 
Gladioli,   143. 

Gladiolus  segetum  (Fig.  p.  193).  16. 
(jlaucium  luteum  (Fig.  p.  201),  236. 
Gleditschia,  75. 
Globularia   Alypum    (Fig.  p.  207), 

134. 


434 


INDEX. 


Glow-worm,  291, 
Golden  Isles,  153, 
Gorbio,    35, 

„         Sanatorium  of,  268. 

„  valley  of,  34,  268. 

„         Avealth  of  flowers,  35. 
Gounod,   Charles,   182, 
Gourmand,   114. 

Grand  d'Aussy,  Le,  103,  105,  108. 
Grape  Hyacinth,    14. 
Gfassc,  297. 

„        railway  from  Nice  to,  295. 
Grass-wrack,   4 1 0. 

balls  of,  412. 
Grimaldi,  village  of,   98. 
Grimaud,   174. 
Gromolo  valley,  367. 
Guava,   71. 

jelly,  72. 

Hadassah,  28. 
Halimeda,  416. 

„  Opuntia    (Fig.    p.  221). 

Hanbury  Gardens,   44, 

,  „   visiting  days  of,  44, 

Harlequin,   195. 
Harun,   Saracen,  chief,  37. 
Headache,  remedies  for,  302. 
Heaths,  Tree,   133,  186,  267.  353, 

354,  367. 
Helianthemum,    128, 
Helichrysum    angustifolium,    353, 

„  Stoechas  (Fig,  p,  227), 

135,  353. 
Heliotrope,  5,  39,  301. 
Heliotropin,   301. 
Heliotropium  grandiflorum,  301. 

J,  peruvianum,  301. 

Heraclea  Cacabaria,   169, 
Herbata,   103. 
Herculea,  Via,  222. 
Hesperis,  234. 


Holly,   195. 
Honey  soap,  316. 
Honeysuckle.    191. 
Honorat.  He  St.,    217.    228,    229, 
232,  234, 

„  51      T.       printing    press, 

235. 

„  »      n       monastery,  234. 

Honoratus,  St„  206.  229,  234. 

r,  „     remains  of,  231, 

„  „     legend  of,   232, 

Hottentot's  Fig,    138, 
Hungarian  water,  319. 
Hyacinth.  Roman.   143. 
Hycres,   150,    152,   153,    156. 

„         Islands  of,   153. 
Hybridization  by  grafting,  62,  64. 

Iberis  umbellata.    192. 
Ilex  Aquifolium,    195. 

„     paraquayensis,  84. 
Immortelles,   135. 
Indicum,  86. 
Indigo.   86. 

„  how  obtained,   86. 

Indigofera  Dosua,  86. 

jf  tinctoria,  85. 

Intarsiatore,  390. 
Inula  viscosa  (Fig.  p.  239),  351. 
Irises,  Cape,  81. 
Iris,  rootstock  of,  302,  307. 

„       florentina,  302. 

„       germanica,    191, 

^      Sussiana,   145, 
Iron  Mask,  223,  225. 

,      302, 
Islette,  L',  at  the  Cap  d'Antibes, 
136,  408. 
„  „      vegetation  of  the,  408. 

Italy,  former  appearance  of,    100. 
Italienische  Stechwinde,   134, 
Ixias,  81,   143,   145. 


INDEX. 


435 


Japanese  medlar,  79. 

.,  wax,  73. 

Jasmine,  Oil  of,  303. 

„  plantations  of,  319. 

Jasmine  pomade,  320. 
Jasminuni  fruticans  (Fig,  p.  233), 

grandiflorum,  320. 

Sambac,   157. 
Jeannet,  St..  296. 
Jewish  incense,  85. 
John's,  St.,   Bread,  80. 
Johannisbrot,  80. 
Jonon,  302,  307. 
Jonquil,    143,  308. 
Jouan  les  Pins,  252. 

„       Golfe,  217,  252. 
Joves'  beard,   39. 
Judas  tree,  38. 
Jujubes,  75. 
Juniper,   43. 
Juniperus  communis,  355. 

oxycedrus  (Fig.  p.  245), 
134.   188,  354. 

Kat,  84,   102. 
Kaki  fruits,   72. 

.      I5gs,  72. 
Kaneel,  69. 
Karr,  Alphonse,   l79. 
Keratameli,  80. 
Kerateia,  80. 
Kermes  Oak.   132. 

cochineal,    132. 
Kola-nut,  84,    102. 

Labdanum,    127. 
Laburnum,   63. 
Lacquer,  Japanese,   73. 
Ladanum,    127. 
La  Mortola,  see  Mortola. 
Lampvris  noctiluca,  291. 
Laranja,  59. 


La  Rochefoucauld.Villa,  at  Cannes, 

248. 
Laser,   79. 

Laurentius  Bonhomme,  206. 
Laurel  (Fig.  p.  251),  66,  69. 
„        aspergillum,  67,   68. 
„        as  sacred  plant,  66. 
„        groves,   67. 
„         superstitions  about,  67. 

twigs,  68,  395. 
„        use  in  kindling  fire,  68. 
„        in  symbolism,  67- 
Laurus    nobilis    (Fig.  p.  251),    66, 

99,  395. 
Laurustinus,   48,    191. 
Lavagna,  375. 
Lavandou,    166. 
Lavandula  spica,  317. 

„  Stoechas  (Fig.  p.  257), 

126,    153,    166,   316. 
.,  vera,  317- 

Lavatera  arborea  (Fig.  p.  263),  148. 
„  maritima(Fig,  p.  271),43. 

Lavender,  124,  126,  153,  166,  267, 
316. 
.,  -oil,  316. 

Lecanium  Ilicis,    132. 
Lecidia,   136. 
Lemonade,   56. 
Lemon,   34,   99. 

„         tree,    introduction  of,  55. 
„        groves,  34. 
Lemons  and  Oranges    grafted  on 

same  stock,  64. 
Lemons,   antiseptic  properties  of, 
56. 
„         influence  of  cold  on,  260. 
,,  oil  of,  310. 

„         symbolic  meanings  of,  57. 
„  tiade  in,  390. 

„  with  thick  rind,  54. 

,,         sweet.  61. 

18 


436 


INDEX. 


Lemon-grass  oil,  303,  315. 

Lentiscus,  356. 

Lentisque,  Col,   195. 

Lerlna,  Island,  229. 

Lerins,  lies  de,  119,  209,  21",  223, 

233,  237,  241. 
Lero,  island  of,  231. 
Leucoion,  234. 
Levante,  Riviera  di,  XI 

_  _        boundaries 

of,  3/9. 

„  »  V       geology  of, 

379. 

,  r,         „       plants     of, 

379. 
L'  Eveque,  Col,  205. 
Levkojen,  234. 
Lichens,   134,   136. 
Life  in  the  Ocean  depths,  414. 
Light,  absorbtion  of  by  water,  412, 

„      in  the  Ocean  depths,    413. 

„       desinfecting  powers  of,  249. 
Lighthouse  of  Antibes,    147. 
Lightning  striking  trees,  68. 
Ligurian  coast,    former  condition 

of,  344. 
Lily-of-the-Valley,  perfume  of,  302. 
Lime  juice,  56. 
Limette,  61. 

Limestone-loving  plants,    162. 
Limodorum  abortivum,    192. 
"Limandiers",  56. 
Linalool,  302. 
Linoleum,   167. 
"Lion  de  Mer",    180, 
"Lion  de  Terre",   180. 
Lipia  citriodora,  see  Verbena  tri- 

phylla. 
Liquidambar,  species  of,  85. 
,,  orientalis,  85. 

Livistona,  species  of,  32. 
,,  australis,  30,  32. 


Livistona,  chinensis,  32. 

Li?ard-snake,  402, 

Lonicera    implexa     (Fig.    p.  271), 

191,  356. 
Lotophagi,  74. 
Lotos  trees,  74. 
Lotos  in  ancient  times,  74. 
,,        blue,   71. 
,,        Lybian,  74. 
,,        of  the  Hindoos.  74. 
Lotus  ornithopodioides  (Fig.p.283), 

135. 
Loup,  George  of,  297. 
Luciferase,  293. 
Luciferin,  293. 

Luminous  Bacteria,  291,  292. 
,,  organisms  of  the  sea, 

291. 
Luni,  377. 
Luxuries     and     Stimulants,     their 

origin,   102. 
Lybian  Lotus,  74. 

Macchia,  354,  367,  370,  3/3,  379. 

Maceration    with  liquid    fat,    304. 

Macha  del  Olivo.    14. 

Magna,  379. 

Maiden-hair  fern,  35. 

Mala  Citria,  53. 

Male  cork.   162. 

Malinfernet.   194,   195, 

Malpay,   185,   187- 

Malvastrum  capense,    137, 

Mallows,  43. 

Mandarins,  60. 

,,  their  introduction,  61. 

oil  of,  303. 
Mangifera  Indica,  73. 
Mango  tree,  7^- 
Maquis,   123,   187,   194,  227, 

,,         on    the    Cap    d'Antibes, 

123. 


INDEX. 


437 


Maquis  near  Mentone.  266. 
Marco  Polo,   115. 
Margherita,  Santa,  365. 
Marguerite,    He  Salnte,   119,    223, 

231. 
Marine  plants,  409. 
Marine  Algae,  409. 

,.  ,,         richness    of  form, 

415. 
„  „        collecting,   417. 

,,  ,,         drying  of,   417. 

Maritime  Alps,  (Fig.  p.  XI),  4,   7. 
396. 
„  ,,        summits   of,    296. 

Maritime  Pine,   138,   175,   185. 
Markgraf,  93,   106,   109. 
Marrons  de  Lyons,    1 66. 
Martin,  Cap,  253. 

fishing  at.   256. 
Hotel,  254,  257. 
climate  of,  259. 
moonlight  at,  261. 
storm  from  the  north. 

263. 
Olive  trees  at,  259. 
shore  at,  254. 
Mastics.    128. 
Mastic   Pistachia,    128. 
Mate,  84,   102. 
Mattress  Grass-wrack,   411. 
Mattioli,  224. 
Mattarana,  377- 
Matthiola    incana,     (Pig.   p.  289), 

234. 
Maure,  La,  219. 

Maures,  Montagnes  des.  152,   160. 
175. 
.,      geology 
of,  160. 
„  „  „  orography 

of,   160. 
Maurettes,   158. 


Maxime.  Ste.,   174. 
Median  Apple,   53. 
Medicago  arborea,    138. 
Mediterranean,  colour  of,  284. 
„  saltness  of,  287. 

„  sea  bathing,    286. 

„  tides  of,  287. 

„  its       temperature, 

286. 
its  depth,  286. 
Medlars,  Japanese.  79. 
Medusae,  luminous,  291. 
shoal  of,  364. 
Melianthus  major,    137. 
Melissa  officinalis,  304. 
JMentha  piperita,  304. 
Menthol,  302. 
Mentone,   33. 

„  cemetery  of,  42. 

„  from     Pont     St.     Louis 

(Fig.  p.  265),  38,  40. 
Mescal,  246. 
Mescla,  La,  398. 
Mesembryanthemum  acinaciforme, 
40,  138. 
edule,   138. 
Methyl  salicilate,  300. 
"Midshipman's  Butter",  70. 
Mignonette,  5,   143,   145. 
Mimusops  Schimperi,   71- 
Mistral,    101,    118,    151.    152,    170, 

418. 
Molluscs,  phosphorescent,  293. 
Monk's  pepper,   171. 
Moneglia,  378. 
Mont  Agel,    117. 
Monte  Carlo,    117,   255,  258. 
Monte   di    Portofino,    from    Nervi 

(Fig.  p.  337). 
Monte  Nero,  2,  3,  4. 
Mont  Vinaigre.   183. 
Moon,   Pliny  on  tlie,  283. 
18* 


438 


INDEX. 


Moonlight,  261,  283. 
Moricandia  arvensis  (Fig,  p.  295), 

98. 
Mortola,  La,  44. 

„  „      climatic     conditions 

of,  45. 
„  „      climbing   plants    at, 

96. 
„  „     gardens  of,   45. 

„     Palazzo  Orengo,  44, 

94. 
„     Pergola,  96. 
„  „     Pine  trees,  86. 

„  „     visiting  days,    44. 

,,  „     wealth  of  plants,  46. 

Mougins,  220. 
Muse  Bauer,  303. 
Muscari  comosum,    14. 
Musk,  300,  303. 
Myristica  fragrans,    113. 
Myrrh,  85. 

„  of  the  Egyptians,  85. 

Myrtle,  27,  99,  124.  126,  134,  254. 

Nagarunga,  59. 

Naphae,  Aqua,  309. 

Napoule,  Golfe  de  la,  21/. 

Naranzi,  59. 

Narcissi,    143. 

Narcissus  Jonquilla,  308. 

„  poeticus,    191. 

,  Tazetta    (Fig.   p.    301), 

16,   143. 
Nardus  Indica,  31/. 
„         Italica,  317- 
Narindj,  59. 
Narunj,  59. 
Nasca,  351. 
Nebeg,  75. 
Neige  de  Corse,  261. 
Nero,  Capo,  392. 
Neroli,  essence  of,  309. 


Neroli,  oil  of,  309. 

„         -portugal  oil,  310. 
Nervi  338. 

„       climate  of,  346. 

„       Eden  Hotel,  339. 

„        flower  growing  at,  348. 

„        marine    parade,    339,    340, 
351. 

„        rise  of,  347. 

„        rocks  on  the  shore  at,  346. 

„        shelter  from  the  wind,  346. 

„        Villa  Clementine,  352. 
"Nettle  tree",   74. 
Nelumbium  speciosum,  74. 
Nicotiana  wigandioides,  77- 
Nightshade,  species  of,  76. 
Nitophyllum    punctatum     (Fig.  p. 

307),  416,  418. 
JVice,   115,    117,  393. 

,.       flower  market  of,   394. 

„      Palm  Sunday  at,  395. 
Notre  Dame    de    Bon -Port,    119, 

121,  401,  403. 
Nutmeg   112,   113. 
„         tree,   113, 
Nymphaea  coerulea,  71- 
^  Lotus,  74. 

Oaks,    dedicated    to    the    God    of 
Thunder,  69. 

„        evergreen,   175,   195. 

„         striking  by  lightning,  68. 
Octavianus,  Tower  of,    116. 
Olbia,   153,   158. 
Oleander,   171,  384. 
Oleaster,   134. 
Olibanum,  85. 
Olive  groves,  7,  9,  259. 

„  „  in  the  moonlight.  7. 

Olive  oil,  9. 
Olives,  harvest  of,  8. 
Olive  tree,  7,  98,  259. 


^' 


na 


INDEX. 


439 


Olive  tree,  time  of    llouering,    S. 
„  n      conditions        of       soil 

necessary  for,    13. 
„  „      manuring  of,   13. 

„  „       fruits  of,  8. 

^  ,      palaeontological      dis- 

coveries of,   12. 
„         V      trunks,  ;. 
,,  „       origin  of,    12. 

„       distribution  of,    12. 
„  „     cultivation  of,  8. 

y,       trees,  old,  400. 
„  „        as  boundary  marks,  12, 

„  ,,        shrubby.    134. 

Oil,  fly,  14. 
„     for  salves,  305. 
„     industry,   10. 
Oils,  ethereal.  303. 

„     fat,  303. 
Ollioules,   143. 
Ophrys  apifera,    192. 
„         aranifera,   192. 
„  Bertolonii    (Fig.    p.   313), 

15,  407. 
Opuntia  tunicata,  94,    160. 
Opuntias,  94,   100. 
Orange,  34,  58,  60.  99. 
„         blossom,   126,  309. 
„  groves  at  Hyeres,    153. 

oil,  303,  309. 
Jericho,  60. 
Oranges,     influence    of    cold   on, 
260. 
^  and  Lemons,  grafted  on 

same  stock,  64, 
Orange   tree,    ancient    cultivation 
of.  58. 
„  „       as   stock    for   graf- 

ting, 58. 
^  „       ethereal  oil,    57. 

Orange  tree,  bitter  fruited,  55,  57- 
sweet-fruited,  58. 


Orange  trees  on  Mount  Etna,   60. 
Orange  trees  at  Hyeres,    154,   157. 
Orange-tip,    142,    194. 
Orchids,   14,  35,   192. 
Oreodaphne  californica,  70. 
O^pcdalctti,  39 1 . 
Osteospermum  moniliferum,     137- 

Padina  pavonia  (P'ig.  p.  319),  416. 

Paganini,  237> 

Palazzo  Orengo,  44,  96. 

„  „  view  from,  96. 

Palm,  28.  99. 

Sunday,   25,   28,  393,  395. 
„       fronds,  25.  87,  394. 
Palmarosa  oil,  313. 
Palms,  5,  23,  30. 

„        at  Hyeres,    156. 
,,       ornamental  work  with,  32. 
Pampelmuusse  tree,  57- 
Pampelmousses,  55. 
Panama  wood,  79. 
Paradise  Apples,  27,  55. 
Parthenogenesis,  278. 
Passerina    hirsuta     (Fig.    p.  325), 

130. 
Patchouli,  304. 
Peach,  34. 
Pear  tree,  34. 
Perfume,  in  France,  334. 
history  of,  326. 
„  luxurious  use  of,  333. 

,,  misuse  of,  329. 

,,         use  of,  325. 

manufactories,  304. 
,,  in  ancient  times,  326. 

industry,  299. 
of    flowers    at    different 
times  of  day,  321. 
Perfumes,  300,  303. 
Pelargoniums,  5,  34,  42,  47,   383, 
384. 


440 


INDEX. 


Pelargonium  capitatum,  315. 

„  odoratissimum,  47, 

315. 
,,  peltatum,  38. 

„  roseum,   47,  315. 

Pepper,  7^. 

„  currency,    1 1 4. 

,,  history  of,    113. 

Peppermint,  304. 
Pepper  tree,  42,  73,   138. 
Persea  of  the  Egyptians,  70. 

,,        gratissima,  70. 
Petigrain  oil,  310. 
Petrol-ether  in  perfumery,  306. 
Peutinger'sche  Tafel,  211. 
Peyssonnelia   Squamaria  (Fig. 

p.  331).  416. 
Phillyrea,  267. 

.,  angustifolia  (Fig.  p.343), 

133,  267. 
Phoenix  canariensis,  30. 
.,  dactylifera,  30. 

,,  melanocarpa,  30. 

Pholas  dactylus,  293. 
Phosphorescence  of  the  sea,  290, 

291. 
Phosphorescent  bacteria,  291,  294. 
fish,  292. 
„  fungi,  290. 

meat,  292. 
„  organisms,   290. 

Photinia  serrulata,  79. 
,,         japonica,  79. 
Phyllodes,   144. 
Phyllosiphon   Arisari,    see    Arum 

Arisarum. 
Pic  d'Aurele,  see  Aurele. 
Pigeonnier,   192. 
Pilae  marinae,  412. 
Pines,  99,   138, 

„       very  large,    173. 
Pine  woods,   147. 


Pinks,  5,   143. 

,,       Genoese,  348. 
,,       green,    145. 
Pinus  halepensis,    138. 

Pinaster,    138. 
Piper  Betle,  31. 

nigrum,  73- 
Pistachia  Lentiscus  (Fig.  p.  349), 

128. 
Pistachias,   124,   187,  254. 
Pittosporum  Tobira,  48. 
Piuma,  Villa,  368. 
Plage  d'Aurele,  see  Aurele. 
Plants    indicating    nature    of  soil, 

163. 
Plankton,  285,  291, 
Plant-life  in  the  sea,   412. 
Plums,  34. 
Poets'    Narcissus,    see    Narcissus 

Poeticus. 
Pogostemon  Patchouli,  304. 
Polyanthes  tuberosa,   321. 
Polygala  myrtifolia,    137. 
Poisonous   properties    of   ethereal 

oils,  323. 
Poma  aurantia,  59. 
Pomade,    manufacture    of,    on    a 

small  scale,  312. 
Pomeranzca.  59. 
Pont  St.  Louis.  38,   40,  43. 
,,        „         ,,       ravine,  43. 
Porphyry,  blue,   192. 
red,   192. 
„  of  the  Esterels,   183. 

Porto-fin,  364. 
Portojino,  364. 

„  Madonna      del      Capo, 

365.  372. 
„  sea  trip  to,  363, 

„  promontory     of     (Fig. 

p.  337),  339,  352. 
Portogallo,   59. 


INDEX. 


441 


Posidonia  oceanica,  411. 
„  balls  of,   412. 

Prehistoric  remains  near  Mentone, 

294. 
Trimeurs  of  Hyeres,    156. 
Primula  sinensis  and  obconica,  40". 
Pritchardia  filifera,  30,  31,  32. 
Procession  caterpillars,   139. 

„  moth  of,    140. 

Profichi,   277. 
Prosper  Alpinus,    104. 
Provincia  Romana,    179. 
Pseudo-Nardus,  317. 
Psidium.  species  of,   71. 
Psoralea  bituminosa  (Fig.  p.  355), 

370. 
Pteronia  incana,  47. 
Ptychotis  Ajowan,  302. 
Pulque,   246. 

Quercus  coccifera(Fig.  p.359),  132. 

Ilex  (Fig.  p.  363),  132. 
Quillaja  Saponaria,  79. 
Quinces,  60. 
Quinoa  plant.    1 10. 

Ranunculi.    143. 
Rapallo,  365. 

„         -Chiavari,  mountain  road 
of,  374. 
Raphael.  St..    176,    179. 
Rattan,  palm,   88. 
Red  Algae,  410,  414. 
Remo,  San,  see  San   Remo. 
Reseda  perfume,  316, 
Rhamnus,  68,  26/. 

„  Alaternus   (Fig.  p.  367), 

129,  254,  354. 
Rhodocera  Cleopatra  (Fig.  p.  143), 

142. 
Rhododendron,  84. 
Rhus  succedanea,  73. 


Rhus  vernicifera,  73,  74. 
Ricinus  communis,   287. 

oil,  288. 
Riomaggiore,  381. 
Roccabruna,  34,   115,  268. 
Roccolo,  358. 
Rock-rose,   128. 
Roja,  \'alley  of  the,  221. 
Rolandine.    276. 
Romerages,  241. 
Romero  Santo,   31/. 
Romolo  valley,  384. 
Rosa  sempervirens,  356. 

„      Sinica,   40. 
Rose  bushes,  evergreen,  356. 
Roses,  34.  38. 

„         plantations  of,    152,  314. 
y,         in  perfumery.  312. 
oil  of,  312. 
Rosemary,     43,      124,      125,      147. 
254,  356. 
„  oil  of,  316,  318. 

Rosmarinus  officinalis  (Fig.  p.  371), 
Route  de  la  Corniche,   115. 
Rue,  254. 

Ruscus  aculeatus,   133. 
Ruta  bracteosa,   236,  352. 

Saccharum,  91. 

„  officinarum.   92. 

Safrol,  301. 

Safety  lamps.  Living,  294. 
Sainte  ampoule,    17. 
Sailing  at  Monte  di  Portofino,  363. 
Salves.  305. 
Salicylaldehyd,  300. 
Salvatore,  San,  375. 
Salvia  albocoerulea,  47. 

.,         horminoides  (Fig.  p.  3/5), 
147. 
Sandarac,   (ium,   t^2. 
Sandal-wood,  303.  30S.  336. 


442 


INDEX. 


Sandal-wood,  tree,  303. 
Sa/i  Remo,  4,  382,  388. 
„  ,,        old  town  of,  386. 

.,        vegetation,  382. 
Santalum  album,  303. 
Saponin,  79. 
Saracen  fortress.    1/4. 
Sasso,  6. 

Scheffel-palms,  23,  25,  392. 
Schinus  molle,  "3. 
Sea,  changes  of  moods,   340. 
„     colouring  of,   284. 
„     cause  of  its  colour,  284. 
„     luminous  inhabitants  of,  289, 

291. 
„     plants,  409. 
„     phosphorescence  of,  290. 
„     storm,   140,  342. 
„     urchins,   eating  of,    172. 
„     weed,  see  Marine  Algae. 
„     Deep,  fauna  of,  415. 
Second  Journey,    151. 
Selaginella  denticulata  (Fig.  p. 379), 

267. 
Sense  of  smell,  324. 
Serapias  Lingua   (Fig.  p.  383),  16. 
Sestri  Levante,  365,  366. 

climate  of,  366. 
Santa  Anna,  373, 
Telegrapho,   372. 
Villa  Piuma,  368. 
Sina-apfel,  59. 
Sinus  Sambracitanus,    168. 
Sirocco,  261,  289. 
Sleet,  261. 
Smilax  aspera  (Fig.  p.  387),   134, 

351. 
Smyrna  figs,  273,  2/4. 

„  „       in  the  United  States, 

275,  279. 
Smyrnium  Olusatrum  (Fig.  p.  391), 
227. 


Snake  at  Cap   d'Antibes,  402. 
Solanum    anthropophagorum,    76. 

,,  Melongena,  76. 

.,  Warszewiczii,  ']']. 

Solution  of  ammonia  in  perfumery, 

322. 
Spanish  cane,  88. 

„       broom.    128. 

,,  chestnut,  163. 
Sparaxis  tricolor,  81. 
Spartium  junceum    (Fig.   p.  395), 

128.  408. 
Spezia,   379,  382. 
Sphacelaria  scoparia  (Fig,  p.  399), 

416. 
Spices.    112,   114. 

,,         monopoly  of,    113. 
Spirits  of  Hartshorn,  322. 
Spring  flowers,    14. 
Spring  growth  of  plants,  337,  338. 
Spurge,  43,   130. 

Bush,   43,   130,  379, 
,,  shrubby,  43. 

Squirting  cucumber,  236. 
Ssidr,  75, 
Stecheiche.   195, 
Sterculia  acuminata,    84. 
Stoechades,   153, 
Stocks.  34,   142,   143,  234. 
Storage  of  wines,  318. 
Storax,  85. 
Storm,    160. 

„         from  the  north,  263. 
Stimulants,  their  origin,    102. 
Strada  Nazionale,  La  Mortola,  97. 
Strawberry    tree,     130,     188,    353, 

354. 
Streptosolen,  "n  . 

,,  Jamesoni,  39, 

Strohblumen,   135, 
Styrax  officinalis,  85. 
Sugar,  Beet,  93. 


INDEX. 


443 


Sugar  manufactories  in  Germanv, 
94. 
production  of,  92. 
refineries.  93. 
Cane,  92. 

,,       planting  of,  92. 
„       propagation  of,  92. 
„       distribution    of.    92. 
„       use  of,  93. 
Sunrise,  3. 
Sunset,   148.  418. 
Swallow-tail  butterfiy.    142,    195. 
Sycophant.   27b. 

Tabashir.  90. 
Taggia,  389. 

its  oil,    10. 
Tamarisks,   138.  287. 
Tamarix  gallica,  28". 
Tartarus,  Scourge  of,    128. 

bush  of,  48. 
Tazettas,   16,   143. 
Tea,   102. 

its  introduction,    102. 

,,      -drinking,  beginning  of,  102. 

.,      plant,  82. 

.,      roses,   143. 
Tecoma  capensis,  4il. 
Telephone,  Bamboo,  89. 
Tenda,  Col  di,  221,  222. 
Tete  de  Chien,  41. 
Teucrium  fruticans.  39,    13/. 
Thais  polyxena  (Fig.  p.  195),    195. 
Thein,  84. 
Theobroma,   109. 

„  Cakao.   10/. 

Theobromin,  84,   104. 
Thesmophoria,   171. 
Third  Journey,    215. 
Thuja  occidentalis,  368. 
Thuret  Gardens,   118,   146. 
Thvme,   124,   126,   147. 


Thyme,  oil  of,  316. 

Thymol,   302. 

Thyrsus,  78. 

Tigullia,  364. 

Tinee,  La,  397. 

Tomato,  Cannibals',  76. 

Tonka  bean,  300. 

Tonquin  oil,  303. 

Tourettes-sur-Loup,  297. 

Tragopogon  australis  (Fig.  p.  403), 

407. 
Trams,  Electric,    near  Nice,    398. 
Trayas,  Le    (Fig.  p.  151),    198. 

^  „     dog,   198. 

„  „     fishing  at,  200. 

„     Hotel,   198. 
Tree  Heath,  see  Heath. 
Tree  of  Life,  368. 
Tree  frogs,  217. 
Tritonia,  81. 

Tropaeolum  pentaphyllum.  81. 
Trofez,  St.,   168,   170. 

„  „     the  saint,   169. 

„     Hotel,   171. 
Trumpet  flower,  40. 
Tschai,   103. 

Tuberose,   157,  304,  321. 
Tulipa  Clusiana  (Fig.  p.  407),   16, 

192. 
Tulips,   192. 
Turbie,  La,   116. 
Turris  in  via,    1 16. 

Ulva,  410. 
Umbellates.  77. 
Umbelliferae,  77. 
Umbrella  Pine.  99. 
Unedo,  see  Arbutus. 

Valescure,   183. 
Vallauris,  220,  222. 
Vallecrocia,  valley  of,  7- 


444 


INDEX. 


Vallis  curans,   183. 

Vanilla,  301,  304. 

Var,  Gorges  of  the,  397. 

„      valley,  296. 
Ventium,  29/. 
Verbena  triphylla,  315. 

„  oil,  315. 
Verde,  Capo,  388. 
Vetiver,  303. 

Via  Aurelia,   173,   186,    210,    211. 
„     Domitia,   186. 
„     Emilia,  210. 
„     Herculea,  222. 
Vial,  Mont,  396. 
Viburnum  Tinus  (Fig.  p.  411),  48, 

191. 
Vicia  Faba,  348. 
Viegie  de  Peyssarin,  208. 
Villepay,  Lake  of,   197. 
Vilmorin-Andrieux,  406. 
Vinaigre,  Mont,   183,   189. 
Vine,  the,   16,   18,  99. 
„       distribution  of,   19. 
„       time  of  flowering,    18. 
„      palaeontological  discoveries 

of,   18. 
„       methods  of  cultivation,  22. 
„       origin  of,   18. 
„       zone  of,   17. 
Violet,  Le  Czar,   156. 
„       de  Parma,  305. 
„       crops  of,    at  Grasse,    305. 
,       -fields,   156. 
„       perfume,  305. 
„       root,  302,  307. 
Violets,  34,   145. 


Violets,  in  ancient  times,  234. 
Vitex  Agnus-castus,   171. 
Vitis  vinifera,    18. 

Wallflovi^er,  34,  142,  143,  234,383. 

Wax  palm,  32. 

Whitethorn,    131. 

Willow,  27. 

Wine,  age  of  in  ancient  times,  20. 

„        Amphorae,  23. 

„       Pasteurisation  of,   19. 

„        Pliny  on,  20,  21. 

„       casks,  23. 

„        Virgil  on,  21. 

„       substances    added     to,     in 
ancient  times,  20. 

y,       "smoking"  of,    19. 
Wine-growing  in  Italy,  23. 
Wigandia   caracasana,    39,     66, 

383. 
Wintergreen  oil,  300. 
Winter,    landscape    gardener,    25, 

32,  392. 
Woodruff,  300.     ■ 

Verba,  84. 

Yellow-horned  Poppy,  236, 
Ylang-ylang,  303, 
Yuccas,  94. 

Zizyphus  jujuba,  75. 

„         Lotus,  75. 

„  spina  Christi,  75. 

„  vulgaris,  75. 

Zoagli,  365,  374. 
Zostera  marina,  410. 


^ 


